zKars

I ALWAYS crazy glue the reaction disk to the piston when I take these things apart. No way I’m ever losing that thing again...

If you aren't watching the final minutes of this you should be..... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-127/?utm_source=transactionalemail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=bat_watched_listing_ending_soon

I have a bunch of old used racks if you can’t find something closer.

Something very appealing about torquing on the flywheel with a starter gear and the mechanical torque multiplier advantage you get with a 9:190 or whatever the flywheel tooth count is. A big bad thick plate you bolt on in place of the starter, bearing mounted 1” or so shaft with a starter gear on one end, 1/2 or 3/4” drive square on the other end. Shouldn’t need all that long a ratchet handle to put very considerable torque on the crankshaft. Probably more costly and complex to make for such an occasional use tool.... Keep working on the crank nut. Still the most elegant solution.

Forget my lock nut idea. Any torque requirement that busts a damper like that is way beyond a lock nut, and might beyond the M16 bolt shear strength.

Clearly there is a torque limit to this method that may very well not be enough for all locked up motors. It’s just a real simple and inexpensive first attempt before moving on to more forceful and expensive methods.

I like the chain wrench idea with an old timing chain. It does require you take off the front cover. How about this? I’m assuming the problem with using the regular crank bolt is that it can’t be used to apply CCW torque or it just comes loose, so... About investing in a M16x1.5 nut and using that to lock the bolt to the crank snout, then using your regular socket on the bolt head? Yes you have to invest in a 27mm open end wrench. I wonder how much torque that would take to back that off? Depends on how much torque you apply to tighten that nut. The only M16x1.5 nut on the car I know of is the steering wheel lock bolt, but its pretty thin. I’d rather use a full width nut. Maybe a flange nut?

The engine bay does have that “post 75” look doesn’t it? If the head is an N47 rather than the expected N42 on a 75, then.... With the many years of history, who knows what parts have been substituted in. The only concern I have is the plastic fuel filter back by the tank, but only if its on the output side of the pump. If its between the tank and the pump inlet, it’s under no pressure (vacuum actually) and should be fine. If its there, then there has to be another proper high pressure EFI filter under the hood between the Body hard line from the tank and fuel rail at the front right of the engine. Heat soak is rarely an issue with EFI engines. I’m leaning on the ignition module failure as the likely cause. Or coil, or distributor pickup heat related failure.

This is the short ear, single exhaust hanger bracket so its the early ZX tranny, not the later tall ear single bracket “close ratio”. 80-81 year range. The forward-most hole, “C”, is the reverse light switch position. Can’t say for sure what the others are easy to test. See what gear positions cause the switches to change from “open” to “close”. Some may be normally open, some normally closed. Just look for a change of state when in Only one of the gear positions. I’ve never been clear on what models/markets/year ranges etc determine the existence of neutral and/or high gear switches. Most north american ZX trans I’ve seen only have the reverse switches. Early Z trans often have a neutral switch. Zed’s drawing shows all three with two different positions for the OD (top gear) switch. Haven’t seen a definitive listing anywhere.

Front of trans is to the left

i'll split it with you. I think we both get half of nothing...

Yup post is gone. Hope it stayed nearby. I'll ask him

I kinda decided I would not spill any beans. The owner didn't include it in the ad, must have had his reasons. Let’s just say it’s not a 69....

Don’t forget good old powder coating. Lots of shiny, chrome, aluminum and silver options out there. What I like best is the toughness of the coating to resist the inevitable foot and boot rubbing abuse these things take.

Here is one picture I took back in April when I saw it.