zKars

The pedal box is from a 75. No changes on this piece in the 280 year range that I’m aware of. Maybe check the parts fiche to be sure, but can’t think of anything 77-78 specific that would affect it.

Here are pics of them side by side. 280 box is obviously wider (larger booster), yes two holes under the dash at the front vs 4. 280 box is also deeper from fire wall to dash mount. The two tabs that stick out the side look about the same.

I’ll put the two side by side and post a picture and you can decide. My guess is there is enough dimensional difference that it would not be worth the effort. What exactly is your problem with the current setup? There is a booster rebuilder somewhere in the US that can make your present booster new again. Search for “Brake Booster rebuild datsun” MSA and probably Zcardepot sell alternative boosters. Even going with a more aggressive pad compound (hawk or porterfield has some options for stock brakes)

Did you find a wing bolt yet? Can you measure the one you have pls?. There are two different lengths, and if you have the later flat tops and its matching “larger” air cleaner, I think the bolts are shorter than the earlier ones. Send me a PM and we can take it from there.

Side bar still there this morning on my ipad. Same on my Win10 desktop with dual 27" hi-res monitors.

With Ipad Gen 8, but I understand why the thread is 3/4 wide. There is a new set of information at the top of the thread that fills the 1/4 on the right, but since its only 1 screen height-ish, once you scroll down, that grey 1/4 right area is empty. Here is a screen shot at the top of this topic on my screen. The red circled area is what takes up the right hand 1/4 Is there a way to turn that off? Likely not yet.

Yes there is supposed to be a little rubber pad on there.

And because looking at orange Z pictures is never boring... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-165/

When you google them, they are associated and spec’ed to ridiculously expensive exotics Ferarri, Mazeratti etc. Hence their crazy value. Quite rare and quite valuable. $1800 would be a steal. Ebay has a new set at the going value, no intake etc.

This has been an area of annoying persistent leakage for me in the past. Now I always use a sealant on both sides of the gasket. The ones I get in most gaskets sets are thick and hard as a rock, no way they are going to seal without some help and perfect surface prep. I hate drilling and extracting bolts like that, but there may be enough meat there to go up to M8 if things go sideways.

Yes, without a reverse lock out port to poke a 1/4 socket extension and air hammer into, that thing is a witch to remove. I built a crazy complex U shaped thing to push them out, worked ”ok” but tough to get all the angles right. Dang wedge pins can be very tight. Drilling an access hole then NPT plugging it after would be my goto solution, but not everyone is comfortable doing that.

See “Peachy”

The 75 rack moves 1.51 inches for one pinion revolution. Feel free to convert that steering angle any way you like.

When I get a free day (2025 at the rate I’m going) I’ll measure my vast array of steering racks and let you know! At the very least, I have a known 75 rack that I can measure and tell you about. I don’t understand rack and pinion ratio’s anyway. One turn of the wheel produces a certain amount of rack movement. No ratio of nothing.

These do two things. It raises the effective top of the strut hydraulic top mount inside the isolator. It does thus give you an inch of addition compression stroke. The other thing it does is eliminate the rubber in the stock isolator. I’ll bet that really softens the ride, wouldn’t it? Where is that tongue in cheek icon when I need it? The thing it does NOT do is give you an advertised “softer” ride. IF you are bottom out the shocks due to lowering springs, it gives you another inch of compression travel so you MAY not get that great jolt when that happens, but that’s it. Overal