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zKars last won the day on July 19

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About zKars

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    Rust Free'ish


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    : Calgary, AB Canada
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    Software Engineer

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    Z fanatic but no car right now

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  1. Yes, I have some spares…. At least they are shiny, most have rust pitting but not enough to affect strength. The threads at the bottom end of those pins are just M12x1.25. Easy to find a washer and nylock or Stover lock nuts. Send me a PM, we’ll get what you need on the way.
  2. I seem to have one of each type. Small type uses a simple bolt, larger type uses a shoulder bolt. Both are M6 Now you’re going to make me measure everything, aren’t you? PS. The bottom row larger style would have the same flat/lock/nut as shown in the top set I’ve certainly found all manner of “user selected” hardware that more or less functions as a rotation point. Not all that critical as long as there is little slop and pivots freely. And will continue to do that for a long time.
  3. Here is the FSM for the Body Electrical of a 74 260. And the picture that tells most of the story. LR is power the motor, B is the ground and you ground either L or LW to get low or high. LY has something to do with the park function. BE Body electrical.pdf
  4. I’m far away, so tough to get them to you quick, but I have a set. Let me know. Another option is to just get a pair of the front bearings from RockAuto, and put those in the rear isolators. That is all the rubber ones really are, just substitution to fill the space in the isolator that the bearing does in the front. It will not cause your rear struts to tend to steer or anything strange. Will add about 1/2 lb of weight
  5. Took a break from stub axle assembly. My favorite after a fresh thick powder coating and it rubs EVERYWHERE!!!! Grrrrr.. Let me know if you need more details
  6. I’ll give details in the morning. The collars are all hexagonal, some variety in them for sure. Bet they were round then crimped with a hex shaped crimper, kinda like a TV coax crimper.
  7. Better yet these! https://www.mcmaster.com/7965K834/ Groove and all! What do you think now?
  8. Got a rack with a worn short bushing, then started searching.... Found this thread, the size needed. Thanks Mike W. I'm going to buy a few of these and turn the OD ID to the right number. ID = 24.98, these are 25mm. OD = 28.55, these are 30mm. Got the 50mm length so I have something to chuck up. Or up chuck..... What do you think? Guess it depends on if I'm happy with the ID fit. Got to better than the sloppy noodle I have now
  9. There are both very affordable reproductions and not that much more expensive OEM ones available from all the usual vendors. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o02e01
  10. Most stock lash pads are 0.160-0.170 inches thick, NOT counting the indent in the bottom, that actually rests on the tip of the valve. Aftermarket shims are available with or without these recessed bottoms. 0.12 or 0.080 inches does not make sense for any reground cam, they would have to be thicker than stock. Assuming stock valve heights of course. If you had really tall valve tips now, maybe thin lash pads make sense? These guys are my fav. AUD $ is way under both USD and CAD. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted I’d ask a few more questions of your machin
  11. I like this one: but also get great results with PB Blaster. I suspect that all the "major" brands do about the same job, maybe variance in time to work or something. My one attempt to use the ATF and acetone potion was a dismal failure, but then I don't follow instructions well or have much patience. My only real advice here is 1. Don't bother with WD40, and 2, be patient and use several clean it, soak it and let it work sessions. Again the patience thing usually bites me on that last one...
  12. This has been discussed and solutions provided in another thread, do a bit of searching. It is much trickier in the early 5 speeds that don't have the reverse lockout device. That pin is quite tight. I built a little press thingy that slips over the rod, but the easier method is to drill the case where the reverse lockout would be, use a punch to get the pin out, then put an NPT pipe plug back in the new hole to seal it. Once you find the thread and read what others have done, the solution will come to you
  13. I will add that in speaking with Bruce at Z-Therapy about this, that a worn jet tube or the nozzle is actually very un-common, at least to the point of being a vacuum leak.
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