zKars

You people will buy anything apparently. I wonder what I could get for a large pile if freshly removed undercoating? Just re-heat in a big pot on the stove and trowel it on. Now that's recycling. Remove, Reheat and Re-apply!

Well that didn't take long. Pete, just sent an email. Jon, I'll let you know if Pete bows out.

I found a Caswell Zinc and Copy CAD plating kit I bought several years ago stashed away high on a shelf. I use a local plating company for all my plating, pretty sure this will never get used. Can't beat taking 100 lbs of dirty parts and hardware to them and get it all back shiny and new in a few days. It's everything in this kit except the two 2-gal pails. It's all in a nice cardboard box waiting to get shipped to some deserving sole. Even if you just want more chemical for your existing kit, this can't be beat. in https://www.caswellplating.com/copy-cad-reg-and-zinc-plating-kit-1-5-gal.html There is also four extra aquarium heaters in there that I used one to heat up a big batch of cleaner/degreaser once. Never do that again. You can keep your goldfish or tea warm with a couple. Asking $40 USD. Please don't make me recycle it....

I have heard of them, and their products are top notch. I have his rack conversion going on my dime this winter. Byebye 37 ball joints and that 100lb steering box.

There is a bit of advice I can give that might help you decide on the best way forward. If your current wiring is in such bad shape that most connections are corroded and wiring cracked, and terminal ends are beyond repair, switches are all malfunctioning, then it might be wise to start with a fresher wiring harness, switches, and new lighting/devices. If problems are only in certain areas, then address those areas. Why? In order to add a completely new and different wiring harness into your car, you will have to learn every wire, switch and connection of the existing system in order to adapt in the new wiring. This assumes you aren't replacing every switch, light fixture, flasher, gauge, etc. You have a ton of stock switches and gauges and such that you have to connect to, that may not be designed with the same switch logic that the new harness is built for. Why not just fix what you learn is wrong as you go? Especially if you're not comfortable with electrical functions and repair. Depends entirely on your time available and dedication to quality connections and splices along the way. I have no doubt you CAN do it, but will the effort and final result be better than a careful review and targeted repair to the existing wiring given your time and willingness to learn and do it right? Your decision of course.

That's a very good point. The overall fit and finish of the Eastwood tooling looks and feels great, BUT, I have not actually had a chance to make a flare with it yet! Perhaps I should before letting my precious FedHill tool escape my grasp. I know I know, who in the their right mind buys a new tool without immediately taking it out of the box and trying it? I've been busy, ok?

I have since acquired such a thing since July. PM me or email z240@shaw.ca for details. I also have the DIYAutotune code wheel replacement if you need that too. I think it's this one https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/

I always buy the MOOG ball joints. Never had a fitment problem underneath with the ball joint not fitting through the control arm hole. After you clean the powder coat off, make sure it fits completely through without interference, don't tighten the bolts bring it flat.

Yes it completely replaces all existing HVAC components. I've done four installs now, and the average time is around 50 hours. Everything has to be custom mounted, run, wired, fabricated, created, massaged etc. Takes time. My time is free but if you're having it done, not so much.

I have used a professional brake line flaring tool from FedHill now for about 7-8 years and it has never failed to make a perfect flare that seals the first time you assemble the connection. I am now offering it for sale. I've heard the pain in prose from several here in many threads about the agony of making brake lines. This will forever remove the temptation of using old lines when new ones become so easy to make. Recently Eastwood had a big Black Friday sale (didn't everyone?) and decided to replace it with their similar tool that comes with not only the 45 double flare dies, but an additional 37 deg tooling set that I find myself using more and more when I install AN piping components. My hand held RIGID 37 deg flare tool, while high quality, is not my favorite tool to use. Thus my old trusty flare tool is now surplus. It comes with dies for 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 line. I've only ever used the 3/16 dies for brake lines, as I use 37deg flares on the other sizes when doing fuel lines and such as they connect to AN fittings. I only ever used the Cunifer (Copper Nickle Alloy) line with is very soft and very easy on the tooling. All documentation is included. It makes bubble and single flares as well as the standard (for us) double flares. Here is what Fed Hill sells now. Mine has their earlier steel box case. http://store.fedhillusa.com/index.aspx/ImageGallery/Index?productId=24 Note that this is a tool that MUST be used clamped in a bench vise. Makes it tough to use on a line under the car if you're repairing an existing line, you'll need a hand held tool for that. I recommend this one https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html Retail is $360 USD on the fed hill tool, I'm looking for $200 + shipping. You'll wonder how you ever did without it. PM me or send me an email z240@shaw.ca

The humidity in this part of the world tends to be pretty low. We generally don't have to rush to seal the metal after exposing it. The hand lotion companies do great business here.

When do we get to discuss if the coolant temp sensors are correct or not? AFM? Thermostat? Oh right, we should do something else now....

If it were restricted to water, it would be fine piddling out behind the fender, but inevitably leaves and pine needles and debris goes down the drains and end up packed behind the fender at the bottom. This soggy mess trapping moisture in there full time is source of rust. There is a mod discussed here where you add a 90 deg elbow and an addition hose to the cowl drain hose that runs all the way down and empties into the wheel well. Pokes out where that little rubber flat is located at the bottom of the fender/inner wheel well plate is. This makes sure WHATEVER comes down that hose ends up in free air behind the wheel, not trapped behind the fender. 1.25 elbow and hose I think is the size.

Every sensor anyone has built, or will ever build, to read any physical property, does not read 'perfectly' with no errors in accuracy or precision. They almost all, regardless of what they measure or how they do it, as based on a scientific response models that connect, for example, how resistance changes occur with varying temperature. It ain't perfect. They are designed to deliver a specified accuracy and repeatability. We as consumers do not see this data when we buy a gauge. They are however, calibrated to internationally accepted standards (which also have errors, but much smaller ones) that everyone who builds this type of sensor is required to calibrate their sensors to, so that they can be responsible and accountable engineering businesses. Some comply, some don't. Companies that buy these sensors tend to buy from trusted sources. You can't as GM or Nissan, afford to buy whatever sensors you like from the cheapest vendor when they lay at the heart of how the engine runs. Nothing you build at home will even remotely approach the precision, accuracy and repeatability or response time of what commecial O2 sensors and their related electronics now provide. It is a wonderful experience to try to do better, you will learn a great deal while you do it.

Unless you just love the restoration of rusty old parts, I could offer you a complete replacement linkage in good shape if you prefer. At least you could scavenge the parts you need to re-do yours if the former is true. There is a thread on here somewhere about a detailed rebuild of the linkage, and I think they discussed the purpose of that spring.