zKars

IMG_2433.mp4

Here is the last dyno pull. IMG_2432.mp4

And the only thing we broke was the fan belt. It turned itself inside and kinda on its side, and spewed out cord from it's middle parts. You cannot bend it back into shape. Didn't actually break, more of cook and curl....

Yes that's 148 HP at the rear wheels from a NA 2400 CC Nissan hybrid engine. 90 hardbody LZ24 block with an closed chamber ported 70's L20B head fueled with Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies. The engine left Rebello years ago with 201 HP at the crank running on weber 45's and a real header. Bet we are close to that again. And the best part? The intake sounds are MUCH louder than the exhaust sounds (that I spent so much time taming down...). And for those of you that know that Datsun motor sucking sound, you will pay me to send you video's of this thing...

And the big day has arrived. Dyno tuning completed. Big thank you to Jimmy Bailey and all the crew at VEX that made this day worthwhile.

Ok, things make more sense now. I pulled my little collection of speedo pinions, and found out what's what. The pinions are all the same diameter. What does vary, is the tooth count (we know that) and the ANGLE of the teeth across the gear. Fewer teeth, lower angle (compared to rotation axis). Pictures below show what I'm talking about. And, sigh, I found one of the plastic output shaft gears in my stash... Yellow 3.9, blue 3.7, white 3.54. And finally the answer to initial question, using the white 19 tooth 3.90 gear, 20 output shaft turns = 6.25 pinion turns. Now I have my VSS conversion.

Well someone in 2017 did a pretty well designed study on 10 of these new fangled high ZDDP oils intended for old classic cars such as ours. I know we have discussed this in the past, don't remember if we referenced this study before. My apologies if so. Results were surprising to the author. Hopefully it will shed light on the current "hype" on this topic and perhaps result in fewer scarred cams and rockers around these parts. https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AHKKfKJ3E11RU1E&cid=FD59A041A3808BD5&id=FD59A041A3808BD5!1416&parId=FD59A041A3808BD5!207&o=OneUp Note: This contribution originally posted by a well known Z owner, Chickenman, on the510realm. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=31832

Yes, the actual plastic hooks are 71 ish through 78. Go in the same place as the round chrome buttons. Not sure of the change over date, but no later than Jan 71 point. I suspect you can actually put a coat or hanger on the hooks and have them stay there, where as the buttons, well, not the way I drive....

Only 77-78 windows work. The entire window, regulator and guide tracks are different for these years than earlier ones. I have a couple of spares if worst comes to worst if you can't find any closer.

A fellow on FB (Mark Shep) just posted a quick article about how he replace his choke cable sheath and core wire. He showed poictures of what he had done and he gave us the URL of the company he found that supplied the wire and sheath. Just had a quick look, seems that have quite a bit of inventory. Should be useful to use in the future. http://www.controlcables.com/ He measured the stock sheath and told them what he needed and they set him up, so we don't have specific part numbers but now we have another vendor to somehow remember.

Oh that's amazing! How did I not think of that? (One track mind, that's how...) Thanks for that! Makes it a bit trickier to compute accurately with a worm. I don't think it matters how may turns of the screw the gear is made from, its got to do with the spacing or tooth angle or something too hard to compute or measure. Guess I'll have to do the work and turn a tranny and count tail shaft vs speedo rotations. Not like I don't have a few trannies laying around... Now if I can just remember what color gear I put in my tranny.... white I think.

I like the fuel pressure transducer. Great safety addition. BTW, I have been appropriately chastized and have updated my thread. Thanks for reminding me.

Waiting for someone to comment on the distributor cap.... Had problems in three areas. 1. Ignition noise (COP) killing the USB communication with the car running. Solved with better lower noise COP's (Audi R8 coil packs). 2. The fancy onesix Industries distributor replacement that gives you a combo crank and cam angle sensor could not provide a stable signal that HAltech could trigger on reliably. At this moment with very little trouble shooting I'm pretty sure it's a combo of noise and improper reluctor gaps. I've gone to a better system of a Hall sensors and missing tooth wheel on the crank and a single hall sensor in the dizzy to give me cam position. I running full secquential. I didn't like having crank angle on the dizzy shaft anyway. There is play in that there shaft..... 3. My in-ability to tighten fasteners properly. Loose electrical connections especially. SIgh....

I am a bad boy. Have not updated this thread for far too long. Shame shame. I'm nearing the end of the voyage. It has been frought with problems, big surprise, but the car is now running well enough to get it to my friends shop for a dyno tune next week. Plan on taking it to Vancouver for their All Japanese show on the 25th. You'll have to be satisfied with a few pictures for now.

Glad I had one handy. I'd want 1.5 times the diameter of the threads (M14) engaged for strength as a minimum. 21-22 mm, almost an inch. The threads are M14x1.5 LH and RH. There are vendors that have rod end solutions that might get you some more length. Techno toy tuning comes to mind.