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zKars

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About zKars


  • User Group: Supporting Member


  • Member ID: 11371


  • Title: Rust Free'ish


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  • Joined: 07/28/2006


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zKars last won the day on December 25 2021

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    : Calgary, AB Canada
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

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  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    260z
    280z
    280zx
    300zx
    370z

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    http://www.zkars.com

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Community Answers

  1. Remember to be extra careful when selecting the longer of the two thermostat housing to head bolts! It penetrates the head and can come in contact with the timing chain guide. More than one unfortunate soul has broken the guide in the process. (Cough cough) The right length is under 70 mm IIRC, something like 63mm? The fiche part number is not a 08xxx that gives you the bolt spec as least not in the fiche I have : 11063-21001 #41 in this fiche, #38 in the fiche shown above.
  2. I would not recommend Fastenal for small purchases of any kind. The couple of times I’ve tried I walked out after finding out $2 parts were $75…. They are definitely geared to industrial customers. BelMetric is a favorite of mine.
  3. We discussed the “missing dizzy spring” on a thread here some time ago. Long story short, it is by design, the spring is not missing. Concentrate on the sticking advance issue. I’m willing to bet one of your choke nozzles is stuck down even if the cable is trying to push it up. Give both a good finger shove upward under each carb. Secondly check fuel deliverability. Pressure and volume.
  4. A wonderful and admirable project. My thoughts. ditch the ammeter, voltmeter only. No need to have lots of high current wire running around with no purpose. and go aftermarket gauges without doubt. Don’t forget the AFR gauge as well. Vendors make 3d printed adapters for speedhut gauges for S30’s. Join the world of Deutsch connectors and/or weatherpack. Relatively small investments and easy to crimp and make waterproof connections. Like the brake line world, once you invest in the tooling (good pair of crimpers), all wiring issues become simple to handle rather than a pain in the, well you know. Since you still need to interface to OEM components, vintageconnections.com has many of the stock pins and connector shells you need.
  5. I believe this may be that which you seek. PM me to discuss discussion of asset transferancing. Yes I’ve been drinking again.
  6. I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well
  7. Leon Cutajar in Australia sells kits with all the parts and does rebuilds if you send him your hinges. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/651063596012440/
  8. One more possibility. I chased a bad vibration for over a year until, almost as a last resort, i checked the spacers I was using on the front wheels. They were only 3/8 or a 1/4 thick, but they were SO BADLY MADE (cheap cast pot metal) that their thickness varied SO much that the wheel had enough run out to cause the vibration. Bought some 1/4 aluminum flat plate, drilled the damn holes myself and TOTALLY solved the steering wheel vibration. Bent or out of round rims can also cause the run out too. Just jack the car up at each wheel, rig up a pencil or something to “just touch” the rim near the edge and rotate the tire and watch the clearance to the pencil tip as the tire goes around. Should be dang near no variation, maybe 0.05 at most. A runout gauge is the best thing to use of course but just as a check you can almost hold your finger there and check.
  9. This thing works surprising well https://zcardepot.com/collections/shocks/products/strut-gland-nut-wrench-240z-260z-280z
  10. You can, but I’ve never used anything but anti-seize on the threads and never ever seen an oil leak there.
  11. The only one (other than the few on the front cover), that is open to the inside of the engine is the front long thermostat housing bolt. Racking my brain, but can’t think of any others. Must include the usual warning about that one thermostat housing bolt, make sure it does not protrude and come against the chain guide that is right there.
  12. The rubber bit doesn’t sit in the slit like a grommet would, it is just a disk on the handle side to, as mentioned, sound dampen the action when you use the handle. I think it was actually felt-like or something.
  13. My favorite stuff is this. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/190823047174 It looks and feels like the stock harness tape. No sticky adhesive on the back.
  14. https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/nissan-infiniti-datsun-4/ I’ve bought from these guys before. They have some gears as well as rebuild kits. usually buy the rebuild kits from RockAuto.
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