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zKars last won the day on February 18

zKars had the most liked content!

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About zKars

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    Rust Free'ish


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    : Calgary, AB Canada
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

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  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now

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  1. This is another route to a solution, The thermostat housing holes are all BSPT, and that temp sensor hole isn’t a tapered thread. Many have run NPT taps into a spare hole with a little sealant.
  2. Is it ok if I make you a white one out of a black one? I know my way around SEM vinyl dye products. Happy to explain how as well. Cost you a can of Phantom white 15003 and a can of vinyl prep 38343 Oh, and some soap and water to scrubby dub first. Might as do both then they look identical.
  3. I’m totally putting it on Facebook Marketplace for $50. I’ve always been on edge about coins having three sides....
  4. I’ll post a few more interesting pictures I took of the beast.
  5. The recent 75 that I just parted out displayed quite conflicting “usability” or should I say “re-usability” in many components that come in twos. The car had sat outside for I’d estimate 10-15 years at least. 95000 mi on the clock. 195000? Maybe.... 1. Spindle pins. Right side came out easily with my usual simple air hammer technique. Left side, no such luck. Even after upgrading my air hammer to the best one available (ingersol-rand 123KMax) and heating with dual MAP gas torches to 600C +, not even a micro-millimeter of movement. Off to the machine shop we go. I even cleaned out the cross pin area, although it came out without a fuss. Haven’t had to seek outside help for quite a while. 2. TC rods. Right side is near new, left side again not so much. Significant corrosion under the sleeve at the bushing end. Just enough to make me not want to re-use it. 3. Drum brakes. Unlike the usual drum to hub corrosion, this left side came loose with only a few hundred mild blows from a 5 lb, but then had to literally pry the drum off, the totally worn out brake shoes where bonded to the totally worn down steel liners and actually peeled off parts of the liner when it finally gave up. Right side? Just came apart..... 4. I previously shared my struggle with the lug nuts on the left rear side. One that had to come off with a ridiculously long snipe and a left hand thread lug remover socket So its no mystery to me that the car sat more on its left side in a damp spot. There were also many pleasant surprises. The gas tank interior was sparkling clean, as well the fuel level sender. The filler hose is still soft enough to re-use easily. The tank itself has some dents, which I will chronicle the removal of here later. Going to try one of the hot glue slide hammer dent puller thingamadooees. The hinges are like new, pin play and roller detent wise. How is this possible? The e-brake cables are free to move in the sheaths, which are in great shape! Again, Huh???? The rest of the linkage is dirty and seized some, but un-seized with little fuss. Even the lousy M6 threads on the adjusters just cleaned up with a wire brush and PB Blaster and the nuts move just fine. The little rotten cotter pins all came out with a fuss, as did the the square C clips that hold the brake sheaths to the brackets under the car. The tar mat sound deadening came off in huge sheets with my fingers. ok, the floor under them was mostly gone, that ones not fair. The steering wheel, the infamous sponge rubber “rotten on top where the sun shine, not bad the rest of the way around” was EVENLY rotten all the way around. Spooky. Actually feels nice high grip in use. The wiring is totally un-molested and in pretty good shape. No the clock was not working. I was sure it would work given the other nice surprises. Wiper linkage and motor. Primo! Even the 6 little M5 bolts that hold the linkage to the cowl came off without much fuss. Sun roof. too bad..... Front clip from in front of the shock towers forward, near perfect. Remember the hood prop clip still in place and unbroken? Still is. Saved it. Battery tray and surrounding body is nearly rust free!!!!!!! Saved it Now the rest of the body from the rockers down, actually bottom of doors down, was GONE. It was neat to see the seat rails still attached to the sills and trans tunnel, but half gone on their bottom where the floor was.....
  6. Dash to firewall are all M6 1.0 but are machine screws not self tapping, the ones under neath the ends are the same. Even the two in the middle at the trans tunnel (four for 280’s) are all M6 machine. They do have a starter tapered thread at the tip I suppose. The self tappers that hole the vent levers are #8 roughly, quite coarse. Sorry don’t have the exact spec. the four heater panel are M4 x 0.7 about 30 mm long, 25 at least. Run a tap into the threads on the dash to clean them up. They like to get cross threaded and nasty.
  7. New shells and pins are easily available from Vintage Connections and several others. I can’t imagine just cleaning pins and putting it back in the old shell Have you looked at the wire in the crimps? Yuck! When i cut old pins off, then strip a little insulation to crimp on a new pin, i am time and time again shocked by the corrosion I find on the wire strands themselves near the ends of the wires. In some cases I’ve cut back a foot and still found corrosion. I scrap each strand clean and then put the new connector on in most cases. Lots of fun. Without re-wiring the whole thing, that’s about the best you can do, For all the high current wires, 12 gauge and larger, I often do replace then entire wire from the alternator to the amp meter and back to the fuse boxes. Those wires have to carry all the current they can and reliably. Which reminds me, I have to show you have to take new 10 gauge plain white wire and paint a nice permanent red line on it to make it look like a stock wire.... Later.
  8. View Advert Series 1 Hatch Vent Plastic parts I have a customer with a S1 hatch that nothing but the exterior chrome grills. We are in need of the other three plasticparts in the pictures. Both sides. Let me know what you have on hand. Thanks Advertiser zKars Date 02/15/2021 Price $123.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  
  9. Time Left: 2 months and 21 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I have a customer with a S1 hatch that nothing but the exterior chrome grills. We are in need of the other three plasticparts in the pictures. Both sides. Let me know what you have on hand. Thanks


  10. Continue tapping it off all the way around, in about 1-2 “ movement stations. Don’t do this over the curved corner. It will come off by itself there. You can start at either end. About the only “issue” with this technique is over the length by the 1/4 window. Hard to tap from the inside there with the glass in the way. So far, if I start at the front, but the time i get to the quarter window, the thing just falls off that last foot or so with a tiny twist and tug game. I tried using a flooring tool called a Z bar (how appropriate!) that lets you hook the edge and tap well out to the side of the car. The one I have is too wide, (1.5” ish) all I’d have to do is make it narrower
  11. Here I precariously setup my camera on a pail inside the car (thank you grand daughter for letting me borrow your plasticine), facing toward the bottom front edge of the trim. My “thing” tool is my favorite tire changing bar that is thick, tapered and tough as hell. I use it for many prying and beating operations, I sharpened the end to a flat crisp edge. It is about 1/8 thick. Have a look. 76101A06-62B6-4726-A121-0963A9D9DB93.MOV
  12. Here is my official post demonstrating on video, how to easily remove your drip rail trim with, wait for it, a guaranteed of no damage or bending or warping or anything unpleasant. It is simple, direct, uses common tools and so far has been fool proof for me. Note that this was originally used on a 510’s drip rail trim which is virtually impossible to remove without damage. I have to give credit where due, I googled it and found a guy doing it to a classic Chevy something or other. Looked brutal, but in actuality it is not. You need two tools. A hammer, and a “thing’ with a blunt straight tip, no more than one inch long. Should be at least 1/2 or 3/4” to spread the force. Needs to be at least 12” long or so. If you look at the trim on the car, on the underside, you will see a very thin edge, less than 1/16” wrapped around the bottom of the pinch weld. The technique involves hooking your blunt thing behind that little lip, along its length, 90 degrees to the painted body next to it. Then tapping your thing about 6” down the length of it to drive that little hooked lip off the pinch weld. A video is worth a thousand words
  13. I have a “B” type 4 speed (71.5-78) I’m going to part out and recycle. Saving only the front case and input shaft at the moment. I can remove the bushing and send it.
  14. Bought a 1/2 Titanium Ingersol Rand air impact 10-12 years ago. Used it a couple of times, then discovered Milwaukee tools M18 cordless impacts. Haven’t touched it once since. Actually sold it last month And this is the mid-range model. There is a 1000 ft/lb one that’s only a bit bigger. The only air tools I use now is a air hammer that I use to get (most) spindle pins out with.
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