Zed Head

718Miata did kind of hijack the thread to show off his Mecum car. Maybe davis23 didn't recognize it anymore...

I found the link to the manuals for anyone that wants to browse. The 123USA web site is in bad shape. http://www.123ignition.nl/files/manuals/123manual_TUNE.pdf https://123ignitionusa.com/pages.php?pageid=10

Yes, MAP is what you would change to get timing to retard at low intake vacuum, when you open the throttle at low RPM. MAP is intake manifold pressure, and centrifugal, or RPM, is engine speed. Two different curves, typically shown in table form. They interact.

I think it's the reverse switch. Looks like they might be available out on the internet. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/5-speed/23 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-switch-rev-lamp~32005-k1000.html

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself. Probably have to remove it and see. Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

Look for witness marks on the paint at the bottom of the cartridge. You should be able to tell if it's the edges like gundee shows or something else.

If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline. Set valve lash, check timing, etc. Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove. If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too. Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting. I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points. Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs. They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

Here's a few.

There are a couple of threads on the site about this exact problem. CO spent a lot of effort in them. Even made a measuring tool, I believe. Search around. Kind of sounds like the inner race and the outer race are not parallel, both cocked a little bit. When the two edges that are cocked towards each other meet you get a bind. Just a guess.

My mistake. You're right. Many of the brake "upgrades" are really just brake modifications. Anything that adds "more" is considered an "upgrade". But, if you put stronger brakes on the front but not on the back then you change the balance. You can get more stopping power with less effort just by changing pads also. It's a fun job and a reason to be in the garage but if you don't go all the way you just end up with an unbalanced brake system, confusion for the next owner, and difficulty finding parts.

The pads will always be close to the rotors, they self-adjust. They shouldn't be generating any friction though, the wheel should spin freely.

I think you meant single piston, right?

If you assume that that is the purpose then you need to be sure it's filled to the top. If it's halfway, you''ll still rust-bind the top of the tube. Maybe KYB uses better paint that doesn't break down and let the shock body rust. Are the people at KYB ignorant? A thin coat of anti-seize might serve the same purpose. The instructions should be more thorough. Let's see what KONI has to say. @KONI Lee What is the purpose of the "fluid"? What is the best fluid for the purpose?

Check the magnet under the stator ring. It's probably broken. The timing could be stuck in the advanced position. Either way though, you can't get repair parts. You'll need a new distributor.

They might have a reason. They just didn't explain it in the instructions. Here's KYB's - https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/installation-tips/strut-cartridge-installation/