Zed Head

Actually you're better off to have that "12V" wire connected out closer to the loads. Like at the battery. Connected at the alternator it will deliver lower voltage to the full system, because there's no voltage drop there. You have yours setup like a "one-wire" system. But that is all considered in the #14 link. One of the wires that is being jumpered is the "12V" wire. That's one of the things that SteveJ suggested you check. SteveJ has been doing electrical for years, but I was in and out of it and off and on myself so I might have more empathy. I tried a few of the connect

I was writing something when you posted. I'll go ahead and post it now. It's Reaganesque.

Considering what it looks like in the pictures I would make a video of the engine running and add it to your listing. Would probably help. And if you put the front struts and wheels back on somebody could roll it on to a trailer. The way it sits now, it will take a lot just to get it loaded. Just trying to help.

What is a crank vent? And a crank PCV valve vent line? Not sure what you're talking about.

Might be that somebody left the fusible link out and that is "real" wire. Anyway, I'd be wondering why it burned up. Maybe somebody connected the (A) B+ wire to the E terminal at the alternator. ZCD actually identified the wires on his web site. Not with proper terminology but still figurable.

In 1978 Nissan went to a one piece rail. Not the three piece with the hose connections that your 75 has. That's worth it, for an easy switch, if you can find one. A ZX rail is also one piece but the cold start valve will need some work to get connected. Many people get an aluminum rail because it seems to help with the hot start problem.

You're in that weird area of talking like your "informed" but asking uninformed questions. Basically, your comment says "not really excited about doing things the way the Nissan engineers designed them and used for the full lifetime of the Z. I don't want to use the factory installed removal hardware that Nissan installs on every single engine that leaves the factory. " Think about that for a while. (TATFAW)

The back looks different. External Internal

That's about as good as it gets for the OP. 1972 specific.

Just a last thought - has it been confirmed that you got an externally regulated alternator? I can't remember what happens if you try to use an internally regulated alternator with an external regulator. I know the system doesn't work right though. Anyway, maybe it's all good now. There is a relay on the 76 that can cause a draw, if you still have a problem and decide to go with the internal conversion.

I did not realize that Alaska was having such a hard time. If you've watched Gold Rush you saw people quarantining and doing the things necessary to avoid spreading the disease. Looked like they had things under control. In the beginning anyway. It's still out there. https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2021/sep/24/alaska-covid-coronavirus-rations-care-hospitals https://covidactnow.org/us/alaska-ak/?s=23391257

And, if you have "Z Car" in your name you are implying expertise in a specialty area. If you're not sure it works correctly you shouldn't put it on your web site. Right? Just saying, he's not just another O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I think it's just one guy. He used to be a Z guy. He should know better. Pretty common, you can find the stories of the guy who started selling a few parts, got bigger, and things started to go bad. I just call things like I see them. The benefit of doubt just facilitates more problems, I think. Call 'em out early so they can fix them before they get a permanent bad reputation. The instructions on the "high amp" alternator page are misleading. They lead people to buy a product, because it's a "direct replacement" that won't work if they follow the instructions that are used to