Zed Head
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I think that number is in the "Rebuild" book. Mine is boxed up right now otherwise I'd find the page. The MSA page says 7 thousandths, but they don't give a reference for the number.
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Your instincts seem on target. Fuel pressure should climb rapidly to the FPR limit. Back (front) firing out of the intake manifold is the "lean mixture" sign. Fuel pressure leak-down means that either your FPR or your pump check valve are bad, or leaky injectors. A good system should hold pressure, at least 20-30 psi for weeks or months. Are you using starting fluid just to be sure that timing is right, in between your fuel system troubleshooting?
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Get a friend and have them push the pedal while you watch the fork move. Use 1/4, 1/2, and all the way to see if pedal = fork movement. Don't assume that new aftermarket parts are good. Many of us have had reman parts fail right out of the box. Examine the clutch fork and the way it sits on the pivot carefully. You might have some other odd problem at the fork. People often get the fork seated incorrectly but usually figure it out right away. Diseazd, please stop chewing your toe nails. You might get appendicitis.
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Core plugs. My thought on the coolant passage flushing is that you're just blowing out stuff that settled in a dead zone. No flow. You should get the "How to Rebuild.." book. Lots of good stuff in it. Also, ponder what, exactly, happens when a head is milled. Bottom alone, or top and bottom. What about cam tower alignment if the head is warped? Aren't they out of alignment also? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151
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Sounds like a sticky thermostat. Mine used to fluctuate, even though it tested okay in hot water. A new Nissan unit gave a steady temperature reading.
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The collar needs to match the height (thickness) of the pressure plate. With aftermarket parts you can't really define by 240Z, 280Z, Zx, 2+2, etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,clutch+pressure+plate,1988
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Has it ever worked right? Need the history...
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I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.
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Die glass filter, die! Burn in hell!!!
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I would start one thread and stay on it. You covered your fuel pump problems in a different thread but that's not mentioned here. Try starting fluid. And remember that "turn over" and "crank" mean the same thing, it's what the starter does, and that "fire" means the engine is trying to run on its own.
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I agree. I had actually written something about how his 8 to 10 minutes might actually be 3 -4 in real time. On the other hand though, there are other possible causes for that. A ballooned fuel supply line maybe. Once it expands and the pump check valve closes, it's a small reservoir of fuel. So it might be true but it's a sign of a bigger problem, a line about to explode. He should really examine his fuel lines, front to back.
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I've seen people report the engine running with the pump off before. If you have elastic rubber lines they can hold some pressure. Idle doesn't use much fuel. If it's running rich, then it will slowly go from rich to lean as fuel pressure drops. There's an assumption that fuel pressure will be zero if the pump's not running (no offense Dave), but that might not be the case. A gauge reading would tell more. The pump not running results suggest that the FPR is not the reason for the rich running. Could be a bad ECU or a stuck AFM. The other part of your first post, above, is kind of typical of either of those.
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Your problem is pretty common and probably easy to solve. But you'll have to give more details if you want more specific ideas. On the other hand, it is fun to test all of the many possible causes. Fuel pump, fuel filter, gas quality, injectors, ECU signal wire from coil, vacuum leaks, EGR system, relays, etc. A lot of high quality garage time there. Good luck.
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What's on the rag? Gasoline? "Aerosol" means it's in the air. Weird that somebody chose "soaked rag" to mean aerosol. You're describing some sort of procedure but the words don't fit. No offense. There's no "ignition pack" on a ZX. Did it run for 10 minutes after you took the rag off or did it run for ten minutes with the rag on, then died when you took the rag off? Still no details on how long you've had the car, and if it ran before you got it. Might just be that there's very old gasoline in the tank. Old gas causes problems.
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Try turning the engine off then pulling the hose. Just to see if it's wetter, the engine vacuum won't pull through the hose with the engine off so any leakage should still be there. The fact that it runs better when you turn the pump off is a sign that it wants a leaner mixture though. Seems like you need a new FPR. Edit - if the FPR is leaking you might see some drops at the hose nipple for the vacuum source, on the FPR itself. Run the fuel pump with the vacuum hose off.
