Zed Head

Is this "meta"? Still trying to get a good grasp on that word..

1976. Just "Readjust as required", but still specifying three ranges to hit, all at the same time.

I think the torque spec is so wide because the goal is to get the end play and preload in range by adjusting the torque. They have set the specs. so that you have to fiddle with it until all three are in the ranges shown. The reality is that nobody measures end play or preload so you might as well just pick a number in the middle of the range. It will have the best odds of meeting all three specs., based on how spec. ranges are typically set. Here's the 280ZX description. I don't know when they added the part about replacing the distance piece, it's not there (I think) in the 280Z FSM. That part just makes it even more confusing since they don't say what you're trying to accomplish by replacing it. I think it's one of the worst procedures I've seen in a service manual. It's from the 1982 FSM. Torque...check..no good...replace... endless loop possible. Edit - actually I see that they said preload OR end play. Weird that one can be out of spec., apparently, if the other one is in spec.

The hissing noise is probably fuel passing through the fuel pressure regulator. That's good. If the engine does not turn over the first thing to check is the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. There is much discussion about it in that other thread. The screwdriver trick will bypass the start switch and supply power directly to the solenoid. You'll see some sparks and hear the solenoid click if you do it right. If the engine is not locked up it should turn over. You can also make your own "remote start switch" with a piece of wire. Run it from the battery positive post or the end of the cable at the starter and touch the other end to the place where the yellow wire connects. The starter should get power and turn the engine over. Be careful when you do these things because you'll be next to the car and if it's in gear it will move.

The videos are essentially just pictures. Nothing happens in them. When you say "turn over" do you mean start or fire? Or do you mean the engine does not spin when you turn the key to Start? Usually the word "crank": is used to talk about the engine crankshaft spinning, and "fire" is used to talk about spark causing combustion. "Turn over" means crank. Crank, spark, fire. iscnetwork had a similar problem. Read that thread. Probably just a connection that has opened up.

I was kind of joking. If you had a beam type wrench you'd see the deflection when the crimps hit and could just add it on. It's probably about 10 ft-lbs added to the 200+ spec.

Anybody ever wonder how the crimps on the locknuts affect the torque reading? Just something to keep you awake at night...

I knew that you knew about the interlock but typically don't read much about them, because I don't have one, and they seem like a real pain. Kind of like the BCDD. One of those things that you hope you never have to deal with. Your jumper at the plug is the elegant solution. I was imagining cutting or tapping wires to get around the switch Didn't know there was a plug, but of course there is. But. If I read the diagram right and the anthony_c's posts, the interlock does not cut power to the coil. Just the starter. So that coil power problem will still be there, for iscnetwork.

This is probably for the manual. "Emergency sw" is probably the button. That might be a good area to bypass the interlock. Just jump the button circuit.

There are two diagrams, both show a neutral device, either a relay or a switch. They didn't label the diagrams though so it's not clear which is for what. One shows an inhibitor "SWICHT" so maybe it's for the automatic. So glad I got a 76 instead of a 75.

I just learned something. I did not know that 75 still had the interlock relay, I thought it was just 74. Here's the page from the 75 manual. I'd check those seat switches. It reads like you have to have your seatbelt fastened also, IF you're sitting in the seat. Or, just reach in the window with no one in the car and start it. Very safe, start the car in gear with no one inside. And, there's a button you can push in an emergency. I would just bypass that relay entirely. What a kludge-up. Good luck.

I had two different brands of 205/70 on my 76 and one set rubbed and the other didn't. The car was slightly lowered though, and the rubbing only happened in the hard twisty/hilly cornering. And it wasn't terrible, just the occasional ZZZT ZZZT on a bump in the corner. Do you think that the small change in diameter is going to have that big of an effect on revs and speedo? Have you used a calculator to verify? Seems like you'd barely notice. Most people buy their tires to make the car look right. Here's a neat calculator. Takes some work to figure out which boxes to check though. It has a slider for RPM to pick your MPH. There's a tire size input area at the bottom. Then you have to "set" it. But the results and graphics are fun. https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

The yellow wire would have been the wire that actuated the relay. Not really clear how your setup ever worked, if the yellow wire does not get voltage when the key is at Start. And the coil, or the wire to the resistor, should have voltage when the key is On. Find your ignition relay, by the fuse box, and see if it's been getting wet or if it's rusted/corroded.. Seems like you have a circuit broken between the ignition switch and those parts.

That's a great video. The pressure seems lower than most at idle but jumps up quick so is probably fine under load. It's a tough call, I can't think of what you would do about it except a rebuild. The pump looks fine based on how the pressure jumps when you rev it, but the 10 psi at idle seems low. I'm only guessing but it looks like you might just have a worn, or loose, engine. A perfectionist (no offense to those out there) might tear the engine down and rebuild it because it's not "as-new" but it looks like it's supplying oil with back pressure at the higher RPM, so should run fine and last many miles. Maybe run a thicker oil than standard. I'd just run it as it is until you hear a rod bearing knocking. I'm not an expert though, one of the guys who's rebuilt a few might see clues of impending doom there.

I wouldn't focus on the resistor yet. You haven't found the main wires from the harness that supply the resistor with power. And the wire that supplies the yellow start wire. I'd go back to the ignition switch and follow the wires through the connectors. You're looking at the wrong end of the circuit, I think.