Zed Head

Disagree, emphatically. But, good luck.

Thought that you were working on a rear wheel cylinder and/or stuck rear brake (Brakes dragging.), one side only. Not clear what the subject is.

Disconnect the line at the wheel cylinder. Use your pressure device at the master cylinder and see if fluid comes through the line. If it does then the bleeder valve or the wheel cylinder is clogged. If it doesn't then there's a blockage before the wheel cylinder.

Did you press on the brake pedal? Not clear what you're doing. Nothing should come out until you apply pressure.

You could stick a heat gun/blow dryer at one end and just let it run for a while. Isopropyl alcohol (AKA rubbing alcohol) will take water with it but it's kind of a spendy way to do it. Take it inside and prop it in front of the fireplace. Stick it over a forced iar heating vent. Take it to bed with you.

Seems like you would, since the cross-sectional mass ratio (I made that term up) will be different on the side with the drilled balance holes compared to the side without.

Take a brake line to the local auto parts store. The people there will find you one. Or here's some good stuff. 10mm x 1mm keeps popping up, with double flare. https://ratsun.net/topic/43646-510-hard-brake-line/

The vertical metal is tubes that the coolant flows through. The horizontal zig-zaggys are just the fins that dissipate the heat from the tubes. It's not necessarily junk if it doesn't leak. But, besides leaking, the tubes need to be clear so that there is good flow and good heat transfer. Just drain it well and store it away. You might also consider taking to a radiator shop and seeing how much it would cost to refurbish it. It used to be common practice to boil them out but it's not so common anymore. Caustic chemicals and longer-lasting coolants make it not so profitable. I had good luck with a parts store Murray radiator. Many of the aftermarket radiators out there are meant for underhood flash, like cold air intakes and chrome hose fittings. Make sure you know what you're getting. And electric fans don't really add much, they're kind of for show also. A shroud, a good fan clutch, and a good radiator works really well. The cooling problems you read about are from 40+ year old parts, not the design of the system.

Looks like a P. But it would affect both wheels, if it affected anything. But it shouldn't cause a lock-up. An easy check if you're not sure is to open the bleed screw, since it's hydraulic. Releasing pressure would release the shoe. But, that's not going to eb the source of the problem. In the big scheme of things it's the person who understands how the system works who might use the "R" for the front brake lines. Because they would know that it doesn't really matter.

Brake parts cleaner used to be chlorinated solvents. Today's common ones are petrochemicals. Might explain the difference. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/chlorinated-vs-non-chlorinated-brake-cleaner/#:~:text=Berryman Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner,best cleaning for brake parts.

Seems like a job for 3D printing.

Those are good posts. I was going to say "every electrical connection". Be prepared to replace the injector connectors if you haven't already. There are much better out there, available at any wrecking yard from Chevys, Volvos, BMW,s etc.

No, you just don't have to see them.

I was showing you the Ignore option without choosing who to Ignore. I would have used my own account to show you but you can't Ignore yourself. so the option does not show.

There are a lot more dealers advertising on the web now. Google or your favorite search engine will find them. Old stock. Actually, this is not a dealer but seems like an outlet for them. https://www.kiacheapparts.com/oem-parts/kia-door-window-belt-weatherstrip-0k01159780?c=bD05Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1raWEmbz1zcG9ydGFnZSZ5PTE5OTkmdD1iYXNlJmU9Mi0wbC1sNC1nYXM%3D