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BoldUlysses

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About BoldUlysses

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    Chattanooga, TN

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  1. Thanks guys. It's not so much the connectors that I'm concerned about (fortunately they're all pretty distinct and I labeled the ones that would be easily confused) as the reassembly sequence. My notes aren't as good as they should be; I got into the "take it all apart" zone a couple of times and forgot to record the order in which I was taking things off. Will d/l the FSM. Thanks for that. Spent some time scrubbing the ol' L24 earlier... More to go.
  2. Hahaha Well it won't be fun if I install the dash and then forget a connector or 3 and have to remove it... That's what I'm trying to avoid! My dad will keep it in NC once it's done. I'm just providing the extra time and hands...
  3. Hi guys. I'm in the reassembly stages of a '72 240Z restoration. My dad bought the car new in 1972 and it's been in the family ever since. I disassembled it and kept the engine, trans, dash, wiring harnesses and a host of trim pieces with me here in Chattanooga, while he took the rest to back to where he lives in central NC and had the body restored, floor pans fixed, rust patched up, etc. See attached pics. In a few weeks, he's going to bring the car back to me so I can reassemble. All the fasteners and smaller parts are bagged and labeled and I took notes during disassembly, but it would be wonderful to have another 240Z to compare to make sure I get the hose and wiring harness routing exactly right, etc. Would anyone with an S30 in the Chattanooga area be willing to visit for an hour or so while I compare? Beer (or another beverage of your choice) can be provided. Thanks!
  4. Sorry for the late reply, but the parts are long gone. Apologies!
  5. This. Completely depends on the shape it's applied to. As far as the S30 is concerned, 901 Silver of course.
  6. Found another piece of the puzzle. Alex commented on my blog post detailing the block ID / plate mismatch, and posted a link to his registry, wherein there's a long list of VINs and engine numbers. Turns out, if you focus on the section where my VIN (93069) falls: that the only plausible block number would be the one that's actually on the block, 118555. What that means is that the number stamped from the factory on the shock tower ID plate (110555) is wrong. Pretty wild.
  7. I might need to do this. Having trouble getting mine timed correctly as well. Jeff, any danger the timing chain will skip a tooth or two if the engine is rotated backward? I've heard horror stories of BMW owners destroying their valves because they turned the crank pulley backward and the timing chain jumped.
  8. Thanks for posting the article! Agree with them that the FB RX-7 is a future collectible. Prices have been on the rise for the past 5 years or so. I still want a nice GSL-SE; the FB was my "first love," automotively.
  9. Thanks for the input, Carl. That's really helpful. I think I'm going to tear the car down over the course of the next couple of months and see where we are then. Thanks for the thoughts, Chuck. I wish you were closer too! Mechanical work I can handle, but bodywork is a black art to me... Don't know about a chemical dip. I assume that's where they dip the entire unibody? I'll ask the body guys when the time comes. Dave, rest assured my dad and I are going to have some long conversations about this one. We may move forward; we may decide it's time to move on. FWIW, neither my mom or dad are the type to throw things away easily, so...we'll see.
  10. Gulp. Well Carl, you have an experienced eye if ever there was one. I plan on doing everything except the actual cutting, welding and paint shooting. That includes as much of the prep work as I can do, which may not be much. But I can certainly strip down the car. It was originally silver on red, which it will be returning to. (C'mon Carl, the car's on your registry! )
  11. No visible rust around the front shock tower area. The inner fender under the battery tray has a nice rust hole in it (the tray itself is fine, weirdly enough). Wheel arches seem okay except where they meet the rocker panels behind the doors. Some bubbles under the paint, but they're not ragged and crumbling.
  12. That's where it gets tricky. My dad was the car's original owner, so we're kind of stuck with this one. It's either restore this particular Z or don't restore anything at all. I'm going to take it apart at least and have a "Z-knowledgeable" body guy look at it. At that point I think we'll be able to make a more informed decision.
  13. Thanks for the replies, guys. Yeah, I should post another video after I get the car stripped down to the metal. Chances are it'll be even more bleak.
  14. Finally got around to editing/posting this one: <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xLiy7KBgPXQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Comments/corrections welcome. Let me know what you think! Is it a goner or salvageable?
  15. Same here. It's not something I'm going to tackle right away, but it did cross my mind. Ah, the old bug/feature debate... I'll try what you did. For the record, there's a difference between a nice, solid *click* or *thunk* (any Honda, BMW, etc) and a cheap plastic *crack* like the turn signal stalk my parents' old Oldsmobile Ciera had. Sounds like the latter is more in the vein of your Road Runner's.
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