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BoldUlysses

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BoldUlysses last won the day on June 30 2020

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About BoldUlysses

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    Chattanooga, TN

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  1. I don't think I can re-swage something that's already been swaged... The metal looks thick, almost like a casting, probably swaged at the factory using some industrial press. Surprised to find no hits on this when I searched... I can't be the only Z owner with this issue, can I? Yep; already bought that... It's waiting to go in, but first I have to get the cable situation sorted.
  2. I searched for a solution here, and unfortunately the title is the only way I know to describe it. See pic below: Does anyone have any tips for how to secure the choke cable sleeve in the lever assembly? I thought about JB Welding it, but I don't want to risk getting JB on the cable itself and gumming up the works. Thanks all.
  3. Thanks! I'm aware of the left-right distinction, but for clarity in this particular situation, given that all the work was done outside the car and facing the nose, I used left-right designations as observed. Re:the rubber plugs, I'd rather have a couple of chromed "buttons" in those holes. I honestly should have had the rechromer weld them up when he was repairing the rust and rechroming...
  4. Sorry for the late follow-up here. Been working on house projects for the last few months and today is the first time in a while I've been able to devote some time to it. It actually only took me about 15 minutes to fix. Undid the passenger side, centered the bumper, secured the middle and then cinched the ends down, no problem. Thanks for the help guys.
  5. No sir. It's original, but it got rechromed last year. Here's a front view: The bumper seems offset to the right just a bit. Barring some "eureka moment," the only thing I can think to do would be to loosen the passenger side end bolt and try shifting it over. I think the gap on the passenger side is perfect though...
  6. OK guys; what's going on here? Passenger side perfect, driver side way off. I got everything on loosely and then attached the passenger side bumper end bolt. All the body panels are straight; everything lines up except for the bumper on the driver side. Car has never been in an accident. Both bumper brackets are identical length and profile (I checked). I tried swapping them side-to-side; no difference. The bumper brackets are all the way back in their slots behind the grille. If I really force it, I can move the driver side bumper end close enough
  7. That's a good call—undoing the line further up to try to find out where the blockage is. Will do it and report back. Thanks!
  8. Hi guys. Hoping for some insight into what's going on with my left rear drum brake. So my car is a 7/72 build, right on the cusp when the brake system was updated. It has the older-style wheel cylinders (with the line coming off at an angle rather than perpendicular to the backing plate) BUT it has the newer-style brake line routing, with the proportioning valve in the engine bay: The older-style wheel cylinders are very hard to find replacements for, but I was able to find rebuild kits and rebuilt both. New steel drums and all hardware on both sides. The problem is that al
  9. Hi Garrett. Thanks! I don't know, sorry. My dad (the car's original owner) was the point man for the body restoration phase of the project... I could see if he could find out if you're really curious.
  10. Hi over here Brandon! Nice photos, and beautiful Z! Also it reminded me to swap my Z's windshield wipers, lol. I have the longer one on the driver's side at the moment...
  11. Thanks guys! I'm really happy with how it's coming together. Back when it was blue and dirty/rusty (although it still needs a good bath), I was concerned it looked a little "over-tired" with the 225-width Radial T/As, but with the new paint job and polished wheels I think it looks just right. Also I'm shocked (pun intended) that I was able to get the wiring exactly right the first time... I labeled some of the connectors, but not nearly enough of them, and I was half expecting to blow fuses and/or smell burning insulation, but.... It turned right over. Took a while for the fuel filte
  12. Still needs a tune and bumpers and a myriad of other things, but I started it for the first time in 6.5 years (and since the body was restored) yesterday: Before the restoration, way back in 2011: Totally rusted out pass. floor pan and rockers, mismatched tires, faded non-original color paint, etc etc. I've done everything except the actual body restoration (welding, paint, etc). All the disassembly, reconditioning of parts, reassembly, etc. It's been a LOT of work, and it's not over yet, but... I just wanted to take a short victory lap. Thanks for all the su
  13. Thanks guys. FYI I posted the above in the wrong thread; it should be here: I've let a mod know. Anyway. So I adjusted the hatch hinge so the driver's side sits flush and I didn't open the hatch. I'm going to leave it there for a while and see if seals relax. Re:the door; you're absolutely right that it's only engaged at the first detent. I moved the striker outboard as far as it could go, and it still would only engage at the first detent, and this is with me giving the door a decent shove. I put the striker right in the middle of its range and slammed the door RE
  14. Boy I hate bodywork. All the mechanical parts? Done. No issues. Wiring harness and dash back in last weekend? No problem. Every piece of bodywork has been a struggle and REFUSES to align. Everything is an hours-long losing battle. /rant First it was the hood, and I was advised to start with the doors and work my way forward, so I removed the cowl, loosened the doors and fenders and set to work. The door wasn't aligned before, and still will not align. This is with the striker on the door jamb all the way inboard and there's still a 1/2" gap. What i
  15. OK thanks. I'll just order two of the right-hand ones then. The dash is currently out of the car, so it should (hopefully) be easier to disable it. I understand accessing it with the dash in place is the big challenge.
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