• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About BoldUlysses

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Chattanooga, TN

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. ^This worked like a charm! Thank you SO much. Perfectly aligned now. So, two more questions: 1. Can anyone snap a photo of their rear hatch sill lip WITHOUT the finisher panels attached? Still unsure of how to make that work, see post #1 in this thread. 2. The hatch is still about 1/4" misaligned at the rear. Can I remove the shims under the hinges and move it forward, or is there another adjustment method for this direction?
  2. Thanks for the input guys. Here are pics of the hinges. They look identical to me re:alignment, so what accounts for the difference in hatch height when it's closed? I've attached a pic of the passenger side of the hatch also. It's actually marginally below the edge of the roof / C-pillar. FYI the car was repainted in its original 901 Silver (it had been blue since the late '70s, which is why the hinge bolts are blue---another thing I need to fix).
  3. So...I'm realizing that I should have been a lot more involved in the body restoration of our Z. I did all the disassembly and I'm doing all the reassembly, but the body was restored by a shop near where my dad lives, about 450 miles away. Of note, the body shop didn't have any specific Z restoration experience, and it kind of shows. Two questions for today. See attached pics. 1. The passenger side of the hatch sits flush with the roof, but the driver's side is elevated. It wasn't like this before. The adjustment slots for the hinge don't have enough travel to bring the edge down. Any ideas as to what might have happened and how I can line it up? 2. The hatch sill was rusted so the shop welded on a new piece. The rear lip is turned down, as shown. Is this how it's supposed to be? I can't find any close-ups online to compare. It doesn't mate with top corner of the rear finisher panels. There are also no holes for the finisher panel rivets. Any input here would be helpful also. Thanks again guys. She's coming together...
  4. Thanks again for all the input. As far as I remember, the hood lined up before it was removed for the body resto. At the very least, it didn't stand out to me that it was misaligned, and I notice that kind of stuff... The grille and bumper have been removed for better hinge bolt access. I'm not going to remove the torsion bars b/c they preload the hinges and will help keep it from clunking around on the road. As mentioned previously, I'd like to keep up momentum with the project, so I'm working on the rest of the stuff forward of the firewall right now and I'll circle back to the hood in a bit. I just don't want to stall out on it for 2-3 days.
  5. I worked on it some more earlier. When I press down on the corner of the hood (over the hinge, natch), it will drop 1/4" or so below the level of the headlight bucket edge. I tighten the front two bolts (can't reach the rear one) while pressing down, and the hood edge still pops back up 1/4" above where it's supposed to be... It's better than it was, but still not quite there. I'm going to circle back around to it though; I don't want to waste half a day messing with the hinge when I need to keep up reassembly momentum with the rest of the car. Thanks again for all the great input. Will let you know if I get it resolved.
  6. Thanks folks. I tried the technique and the passenger side is now aligned perfectly, but the driver's side is still 1/4" or so up. Bugs the fire out of me. I even tried gently sitting on the corner of the hood while reaching under to tighten the bolts (the grille and bumper haven't been installed yet, which helps access). Will keep trying. I really don't want to have to enlarge the slots in the driver's side bracket, especially now that I've got the passenger side locked down. Ugh. Thanks again.
  7. Hi all. I'm hoping you guys can help save me a trip back to the bodyshop for this. So I'm reassembling a 240Z with a restored body. During the painting process, the body guys installed and aligned the hood with the fenders and cowl BUT without the torsion springs in place. Now that I've got the torsion springs back in, they preload the front of the hood and pop it 3/8" or so above the line of the fenders. See attached image. Front-to-back and side-to-side alignment are perfect. The hinges are slid as far down as they can go using the 3 bolts. And the fenders and headlight buckets are pulled up as far as they can go in their bolt slots. Is there anything else I can do to adjust? Thanks for any and all help!
  8. Motorless, transmission-less, exhaust-less, dashless, fuel tank-less, etc etc. The upholsterers did a great job with the interior. Pics forthcoming.
  9. Thanks for all the help guys. She was just delivered yesterday. Back in the garage now waiting for reassembly to commence. Going to focus on the mechanical stuff first. My dad has a lead on an OEM non-cracked dash but until he gets that, I'm going to hold off on interior work. ^This arrangement is just to get it into the garage. The car was delivered on a trailer.
  10. Thanks guys. It's not so much the connectors that I'm concerned about (fortunately they're all pretty distinct and I labeled the ones that would be easily confused) as the reassembly sequence. My notes aren't as good as they should be; I got into the "take it all apart" zone a couple of times and forgot to record the order in which I was taking things off. Will d/l the FSM. Thanks for that. Spent some time scrubbing the ol' L24 earlier... More to go.
  11. Hahaha Well it won't be fun if I install the dash and then forget a connector or 3 and have to remove it... That's what I'm trying to avoid! My dad will keep it in NC once it's done. I'm just providing the extra time and hands...
  12. Hi guys. I'm in the reassembly stages of a '72 240Z restoration. My dad bought the car new in 1972 and it's been in the family ever since. I disassembled it and kept the engine, trans, dash, wiring harnesses and a host of trim pieces with me here in Chattanooga, while he took the rest to back to where he lives in central NC and had the body restored, floor pans fixed, rust patched up, etc. See attached pics. In a few weeks, he's going to bring the car back to me so I can reassemble. All the fasteners and smaller parts are bagged and labeled and I took notes during disassembly, but it would be wonderful to have another 240Z to compare to make sure I get the hose and wiring harness routing exactly right, etc. Would anyone with an S30 in the Chattanooga area be willing to visit for an hour or so while I compare? Beer (or another beverage of your choice) can be provided. Thanks!
  13. Sorry for the late reply, but the parts are long gone. Apologies!
  14. This. Completely depends on the shape it's applied to. As far as the S30 is concerned, 901 Silver of course.