Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Days Won


About BoldUlysses

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 22957

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 307

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.07

  • Reputation: 137

  • Achievement Points: 2,254

  • Member Of The Days Won: 3

  • Joined: 04/12/2011

  • Been With Us For: 4187 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:


BoldUlysses last won the day on April 19

BoldUlysses had the most liked content!


  • Map Location
    Chattanooga, TN
  • Occupation
    Creative Director

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

BoldUlysses's Achievements

RiZing Star

RiZing Star (9/14)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges



  1. ^Hoovie's going to make a lot of money on his Bentley Arnage owned by Jean-Claude Van Damme whenever he decides to sell it...
  2. As long as it's clean—and it is! I think the "new" bay looks great. Only thing I'd consider changing would be the upper rad hose; the red silicone (?) sticks out too much.
  3. Ah good tip. I'll change it; it would be a cleaner install and allow me to monitor the gauge while I'm on that side of the car. Thanks for the tips. I'm working with what ZTherapy provided when they rebuilt the carbs (for the 2nd time) 10-odd years ago. It looks like the pivot point for the floats is located differently b/t the front and the back carbs. I guess the danger is the float hits the back of the bowl and can't pivot enough to open up the jet... We'll see tomorrow. And thanks for the insight about doing a wet set. Depressing to realize there's more involved in getting this thing set up correctly given my motivation is where it is, but I'll just have to knuckle through it.
  4. Had to take a step back for a couple of weeks 1) to get some other projects done and 2) for my own sanity and motivation. Dug back into it today. It's been raining all day here, so I didn't get a chance to test drive it. Can you guys check my work? Found some gunk in the last-chance filters. Front: And rear: Got it all cleaned out. Grose jets have 1 washer on the bottom: And I set the float heights to 9/16" (.5625). Front: and rear: Fresh float bowl gaskets also. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge thusly: Reset the mixture screws to 2.5 turns down. Assuming everything looks good, hopefully I'll get some insight when I'm able to drive the thing again.
  5. According to the ZTherapy VHS tape, someone did independent flow testing of a number of intake/air horn combinations, and the stock air horns flowed the best. Nissan got it right the first time, looks like.
  6. Its proportions remind me of the C8 Corvette's; that is to say, not great. If you're going to go mid-engined, the same styling cues won't work like they did on the front-engined car.
  7. I bought an inline fuel pressure gauge, but I haven't used it yet. Will get it hooked up. The carbs were rebuilt by ZTherapy about 10 years ago and the car's probably only been driven 20 miles total since then, so I don't have any reason to believe the floats have moved. I'll check though. Yes, the carb pistons both move freely, and the carb chokes are both working fine. I'll check the fuel filter screens in the banjo bolts. Another potential clue is that the problem seems to worsen the less fuel I have in the tank. The gauge shows about 1/3 full at the moment. Got that sinking feeling like I may need to drop the tank and have it reconditioned after all. Maybe it just needs more protein instead...? 😉
  8. Gradually. It feels like the float bowls are just running dry, like it runs on 1 carb, then 0 carbs. It always seems to happen on an incline as well. Weird thing is that it didn't do it at all over the weekend, and I drove around the neighborhood a good bit. And several days prior to that, I managed to drive it a couple miles to CVS and back, and then did a short loop around a couple of back roads. I thought I had the problem sorted with my fuel system overhaul... Guess not.
  9. Added a little vanity: and a little utility: ...over the weekend. Of course, like a moron, I attached all the splash pan screws except for the rear ones. Note to self: Secure those FIRST next time. I also got the PerTronix module reinstalled. See: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67639-pertronix-points-replacement-does-this-look-right/#comment-644306 * * * * * * In other news, I'm very discouraged about the car's state of tune. I have spent HOURS with the fuel system and carbs trying to get it sorted, and it still just died on me on a trip around the neighborhood. Just cranked and cranked and wouldn't start until I gave the fuel filter in the engine bay a good shake. I've blown out all the fuel lines, rebuilt the pump, filled the tank with fresh ethanol-free 93 w/stabilizer, added a supplemental fuel filter near the tank, ensured all the hose clamps were tight, replaced the main filter twice and the stupid thing still insists on dying randomly. Furthermore, I cannot get the idle to behave. I have a Uni-syn and I've been doing everything by the book, going around and around and there's always a slight miss. I just can't trust it. Which sucks, because the whole point of this exercise is to be able to, I dunno, drive places without the car paperweighting itself mid-trip. /rant
  10. Final solution: Got one of the machinists at work to notch out a clearance recess in the plate. Retarded: Advanced: Not sure why this wasn't present from the get-go. Also, I had to trim off about 1/2 of the grounding wire screw since it extended all the way through the plate. And as mentioned above, the grommet for the wires exiting the distributor housing doesn't fill the oval-shaped hole, raising the very real possibility of water ingestion if I'm not careful. Again, not impressed with the attention to detail in this kit. I shouldn't have had to make all these modifications just for it to fit and work properly.
  11. Quite the getup you have there. Do you have a wideband O2 sensor and EGT gauge? Those are going to be very helpful to ensure you're not running lean under boost. Still not sure about the turbo. I can imagine it would be stiff when you got it back from the rebuilder b/c of the assembly lube, but that should be flushed out the first time oil pressure comes up...
  12. What model/year Z do you have? Not sure about the stock fuel system being able to handle it; you almost always need to add fuel when adding a turbo, otherwise you risk running lean under boost and grenading your engine.
  13. Yes you need a load on the engine to generate boost. All the turbo cars I've owned/driven didn't develop boost until well into 2nd gear on the road. Also the compressor wheel / turbine spun freely by hand. If all you need to do to get it on the road is to reassemble the intake, why not test drive it?
  14. It's a shame the 240Z relay kit doesn't work for the 280. I wonder how different it is? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d23/12-4651 I have the parking light relay kit installed on my 240 and it was totally plug-and-play and reversible.
  15. What if you relay the headlights and reduce the current/heat through the switch (which is good practice anyway)? That would presumably open up more material options.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.