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BoldUlysses

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About BoldUlysses


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  • Joined: 04/12/2011


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BoldUlysses last won the day on April 19

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    Chattanooga, TN
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    Creative Director

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    240z

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    HLS30-93069

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  1. 1. I've had the turn signal switch apart 4 times now, and I tried bending the tabs slightly a couple of different ways. No difference. It's spotlessly clean inside also. Not sure what else to do there. 2. The bulbs are the same as they were before the restoration. 1157LL I believe... 3. So after cleaning out the hazard switch and getting it plugged back in, the right taillight works, and the turn signals works BUT ONLY when I physically move the 2 connectors coming out of the back of the hazard switch a certain way with my hand. I really think there's a break or a short in the dash wiring somewhere. I'll perform the above test, but I really think the dash is going to have to come out again. Thanks as always for the input, Steve.
  2. Today's developments: Using the below as a reference (thanks so much Steve!) I checked the continuity of each taillight-related wire from connector to connector: Continuity was good between everything EXCEPT for the below: I ran a wire between the connections and the brake lights came on when I pressed the pedal! However—when I tried the turn signals, both lit up when I turned to the left, and the right one illuminated (correctly) when I turned to the right. I pushed the car back in the garage and the jumper wire fell out. I tried the brake pedal again and the right one came on anyway (???). Both turn signals worked OK. But then I tried the brake pedal again and got nothing. This is such a moving target. There's clearly a marginal connection or broken wire somewhere. Going to pop out the hazard switch next and inspect it. The turn signal switch is immaculate inside and I have no reason to doubt it. I feel like I'm working on something with Lucas electrics at this point...
  3. More progress: All 4 turn signals work now! I had to clean out the switch twice (it's spotless inside now) to get them to work. Horn works also after cleaning and re-lubing the contact ring on the back side of the steering wheel hub. Only thing left are brake lights, and we're 100% operational...
  4. That looks fantastic! I need to something similar with mine (and replace the heater control valve).
  5. You love to see it... (I promise the rest of the tach lighting is on—just didn't come through in the pic—as are the 3 dash-top gauge lights) So plugged in the 4 side markers one at a time and checked the circuit after each. As near as I can tell, I plugged in the front left side marker wires backward. The engine bay was blacked out at some point in the car's past (it's not any more) and the wiring harness—and its wire colors—painted over, including the wires to the side markers. I just hadn't done a good enough job of matching black to black and green to green the first time around. So that's done. Still no brake lights though, and while the turn signals work on the right side, only the front left works. I've checked and re-checked the wiring; will keep at it tomorrow. Just wanted to share progress and a couple of pics.
  6. ^That 1st pic jogged my memory. I did get that ground bolted down before I reinstalled the tank. See: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63478-routing-for-fuel-level-sender-harness/#comment-592045
  7. Been on an overseas trip for the better part of the last month (France!). Just now getting back into this... Supposedly there's a ground on the chassis rail near where the filler neck comes into tank. I can't see any evidence that one ever existed (no screw hole, stud, nothing) and no ring terminal on the harness either. No evidence of a ground near the antenna mount, either. HOWEVER: Some progress, maybe? I unplugged all 4 side marker lights, and........the dash lights, front (under bumper) markers and taillights came on when the combo switch was turned to the middle position! And fuse stayed intact! Brake lights and turn signals are still inop, but it was FANTASTIC to see that pale green glow from the dash lights. Gonna try to plug in the side markers one at a time and see if I can isolate (that part of) the problem.
  8. This popped up in my Twitter feed, sans explanation... Not my cup of tea by a longshot, but it looks like someone's labor of love. Anyone have any details?
  9. It was a lot of fun. Miss that car. A real German hot rod, sort of a proto E39 M5. http://www.spannerhead.com/2013/05/26/the-new-daily-1995-bmw-540i-6-speed/ http://www.spannerhead.com/2013/07/07/doctor-540i-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-v8/ /threadjack
  10. Why not just use the actual made-for-the-job HF dollies? They're actually cheaper than the general-purpose ones. Do they not raise the car high enough? https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html
  11. Is the air dam urethane or fiberglass? My old BMW 635's urethane air dam was warped at the bottom, and I had a couple of guys from the shop at work take a length of 1" aluminum angle, notch a V in it, bend it, and rivet it to the inside lip of the air dam to straighten it out. Before: After: I hear you about the Koni instructions. Those are TERRIBLE. I put a set of Koni Yellows in my old 6-speed 540, and I think I remember having to work around those awful instructions as well...
  12. That ride height looks amazing, and perfect. As does the rest of the car! Is that the MSA Type 1 ducted air dam, or another? Re:the top nut for the struts, in the past I've just blasted them on with an impact wrench, but I'll have to be more careful with the Konis as I believe it voids the warranty if you do that with them...
  13. Here's the page from the calendar: Something about the angle of the photo makes it looks extra "hatchback-y" and cool. Well put!
  14. ...I have the Z Car Source 2022 calendar on my wall, and the more I stare at Tyler Sprigg's orange 280Z 2+2 (the featured car for the month of May), the more I dig the look. He did a great job with it. The photo above isn't the one from the calendar; the calendar one is a rear 3/4 shot that really emphasizes the "hatchback-iness" of the roofline profile change. It looks really cool from either angle, but especially the back.
  15. ^Totally understood. Thank you Steve, for all your tireless advice and efforts. Chased a couple of rabbit trails over the weekend: Discovered I had installed the left side of the dash incorrectly (the dash frame was under the bracket instead of resting on it, and this was pinching the 3 wires to the horn relay). Given that my horn doesn't work either, I thought maybe there was some overlap b/t the horn and parking light circuits and maaaaybe the horn circuit grounded out on the dash bracket, but... No change even after I got everything straightened out. I tried the OEM (tube-type fuses) fusebox to see if something was amiss in the newer MSA blade fuse box. No change. At this point, the plan is to move on to some other needs to try to rebuild some momentum/positive vibes before I try to tackle this thread's issue again. Discouraging.
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