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BoldUlysses last won the day on September 2

BoldUlysses had the most liked content!

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About BoldUlysses

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    Registered User


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    Chattanooga, TN
  • Occupation
    Creative Director

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  1. How does my shopping cart look? Anything you guys would add/remove/change before I pull the trigger?
  2. Thank you all for the GREAT input. I think I'm going to try to tackle this myself. I really appreciate the links to the tools in particular. Re:the link to the full set for $300, I'd seen that (those guys are somewhat local to me and I follow them on Twitter), but I really don't have any inclination to re-run the whole braking system at this point. Maybe 1.5 years ago when the engine and trans were out and I didn't have to work around them... Will report back once I have some supplies.
  3. Need some input here. My car is a 7/72 build but still has the early braking layout. So the left rear brake line is clogged. Nothing comes out the bleeder screw. I disconnected the rubber line from the hardline on the hub, still nothing. I disconnected #15 from #18 above, and brake fluid came out. I'm pretty handy with a wrench, and was using the right tools (10mm and 19mm flare nut wrenches + PB Blaster), but 49 years of never being disconnected must've taken its toll, and neither hardline would separate from the rubber lines near the brake drums. Nuts rounded
  4. Glad to hear the battery tray is OK. If the frame rails and floor pans are OK, then you're ahead of most, I'd say...
  5. Welcome! 1-family Z-owner here also. Car looks like a great starting point! I see all the emissions controls have been removed. Any rust to deal with?
  6. So here's a weird one from a couple of weekends ago: I've been trying to get the timing right for a while now. Points and distributor cap are new, points gapped correctly (I don't remember the exact number but I did it by the Haynes manual). I put a dab of white-out on the pulley marks, started the car, let it warm up and then hooked up the inductive timing light. No matter which way I twisted the distributor, I couldn't get the timing in range. It was right on one of the end marks when the dist. was turned one way, and way off the marks when turned completely the other way.
  7. Hi guys. I figured I should start a build thread in here. The actual restoration is very close to being complete, but this seems like a good place to document a few things and perhaps ask little questions so I don't clutter up the main subforums with little inquiries when I can't find the answer. Anyway, this is about 93069, which my dad bought new in October of 1972 from Cardinal Motors in Jacksonville, NC. He was 21 years old at the time and just starting his senior year at NC State. The car's block number is 118555 and it has a built date of 07/72 (right around the brake system cro
  8. The title's still in my dad's name and he lives in NC.
  9. Voilà: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/rear-finisher-panel-bottom-clip-parts-for-datsun-240z-sold-individually?variant=15530867359853 $35 actually... Oof.
  10. Update: I ended up bending the flange UP back to 180° to fit inside the finisher bend. Trying to bend it down using the block of wood technique just bent the metal above the bend, if that makes sense. I'll get it more flat, cleaned up and painted, but that ended up being my solution. Now, if only the clips that hold on the bottoms of the finisher panels weren't $30 EACH (one broke). Sigh...
  11. Quick update: FINALLY finished the car's exterior. 100% done. Need a bath, but it's all there. Feels good. Couldn't have done it without all the great resources here and elsewhere.
  12. Quick update here: I managed to get the left corner of the hood to align by removing one of the torsion springs. The hood doesn't stay up with just the one spring, but the hood prop keeps it in place when opened.
  13. Got the rear bumper assembled and installed today. The innermost nuts for the rubber bumper strips were a real bear. I installed the bumper end rubber "cushions" also. I don't see them on many early Zs, but they're apparently OEM and still available, so I bought a pair and put them on. I might take them off; they look kind of clunky and to my knowledge, my Z never had them (or they were pulled off / fell off very early in its life). We'll see.
  14. I don't think I can re-swage something that's already been swaged... The metal looks thick, almost like a casting, probably swaged at the factory using some industrial press. Surprised to find no hits on this when I searched... I can't be the only Z owner with this issue, can I? Yep; already bought that... It's waiting to go in, but first I have to get the cable situation sorted.
  15. I searched for a solution here, and unfortunately the title is the only way I know to describe it. See pic below: Does anyone have any tips for how to secure the choke cable sleeve in the lever assembly? I thought about JB Welding it, but I don't want to risk getting JB on the cable itself and gumming up the works. Thanks all.
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