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Zedyone_kenobi

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About Zedyone_kenobi


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  • Member ID: 15404


  • Title: Www.testdrivemylife.com


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  • Joined: 03/06/2008


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Zedyone_kenobi last won the day on September 23 2019

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  • Map Location
    Houston
  • Occupation
    MCHE

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1971 240Z

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  1. definitely a mopar. The Valve cover bolts are wrong for a chevy, as is the water pump location and bolt pattern.
  2. I am about to go through this process again. Reason. Well I have not had to mess with my triple set up in over 10 years. Car starts and ran fine. Well up until a couple of month ago. Seems starting the car up and letting fuel dry out in the fuel bowl about a dozen or so times gunked it up pretty good. I lost all 6 of my accelerator pump jets and quick throttle inputs were, how you say, met with extreme hesitation. three carb kits later and a new 3 gallon ultra sonic heated cleaner and all three carbs were completely disassembled and cleaned and then sprayed with enough carb cleaner to destroy the ozone layer above houston. Now having said that. I set the plastic floats to 12mm when allowed to hang straight down resting on the ball in the needle and seat for a first try. I had fuel pouring out of my carbs barrels like an open hose. Now I am trying to get a handle on this. I need to find out if maybe my floats are perhaps becoming a bit fuel saturated? Not sure what exactly is going on. But I had all of the fuel levels 22mm from the top using the clear little plastic tube method established by KF. This is not because that is where I wanted them, but it was as close as I could get that damn tab to 25mm. I was thinking of building a setup like the one done above, then recalled this post! I had forgotten about the fantastic level of nerdtasticness this forum generates. Gosh I love all of you! By the way, centerline says the float level should be 29.5mm from the top of the float bowl.
  3. That's right! Thanks for posting that Zed!!! See my memory is getting horrible.
  4. I think the factory setting for a 240 is about 5 Degrees. But it has been a LONG time since I was stock 2.4 liter. My initial timing is about 12 degrees now with a max of 36, but I am running an MSD dizzy with an all mechanical advance due to triples. You are blessed with a factory stock car so lets get the settings back to stock. I think you should be at 5 degreed BDTC with no the Vac Advance plugged. Correct me guys on this if I am misspeaking. Lets get our friend back on track. If you are running 20 degrees on your stock car, it may be aiding your high idle.
  5. What is your timing set at? Also your float level is important on SU's as well. If your timing is to advanced it will cause it to idle high. If your float level is too high on the SU's it will allow more gas into the venturi. Float level is critical on SU's.
  6. That looks awesome! Congrats. Patience is always key to old cars. Make sure everything is done right moving forward no matter how slow it is, as you will never have to go back and redo anything.
  7. I would have to go look and let you know.. off the top of my head I have no idea. Could have been for a mounting on a car for another country or an update that never was instituted. Old 240Z's that had mechanical fuel pumps had wiring installed for electric pumps. But they were never used here. Could be bracket for something that was meant to be used later in the model run. OR, it is a place where you should have bold and do not. Hard to say. I bet some of the wiser guys have answer.
  8. I know what that is like buddy. I was so Z oriented for so long. Then I bought the Roadster and that consumed me as well. After my kids sports started the cars had to take a back seat for a while. We had some illnesses in the family and picked up a new puppy and things just kept snowballing. I am happy to start the Z rolling around again and get that beautiful hood some sunshine. Want to do some projects that have been lingering in my mind. Should probably put in a new clutch eventually, but the current one is still doing the job. Want to up my carbs to 45 DCOE's instead of 40's, but that is a big investment to JUST try it out. Life does get in the way of the Z's but eventually when the dust settles they just wait for us. That next amazing drive is just around the corner.
  9. I am not planning on selling the engine. I am actually going to clean it and rebuild it maybe. It does not leak and never burned any oil. I wonder if I should just clean it and store it or if I should just take it apart (for fun mostly) and put new OEM rings and bearings and let it go to the next owner. I have the original A type 4 speed too, which also worked perfectly.
  10. I have drawers full of grommets, turn signals, turn stalks, and other parts. I have three distributers. One Original, and one has a pertronix unit in it I think. I will have to get the numbers on them if you like.
  11. good to know, was hoping to get some Z new guys who really need some help.
  12. Will do. Will try to get them uploaded tonight. Stay tuned. My issue my parts are so random. Have some peculiar stuff.
  13. Hello fellow Houston Texas area Z owners. I have cleared out my storage unit and I will be liquidating some of my excess Z and roadster parts. Keeping what I deem critical. I have a recently rebuilt type B 4 speed with about 2000 miles on it. I have a 1971 Z orange airbox I have a polished manifold for SU's I have a like new Cannon manifold for some Webers that I ran for a while and looks good. Have a 1971 Z radiator in good shape as well. Have many sets of spark plug wires and other odds and ins as well. I have a couple of distributers and ballast resisters. If any Houston area Z owners are in need of anything, Mostly engine related, but do not hesitate to hit me up. I also have the original engine/transmission from my 1971 Z that was in perfect working order when I pulled it. Those I may not sell. As I want them to go with the car. But anything is possible 🙂
  14. For what it is worth, I have done a cold lash to the 008/010 dimensions on my engine. A year later I pulled the valve cover one afternoon and checked it, it was still beautifully set and had not moved. I trust the 008/010 method cold. I can take my time and really get a uniform feel. Also, the biggest challenge for me is to ensure the cam lobes are in the round section. Constantly bumping over the engine is a pain. Removing the plugs helps tremendously. But trying to remove the wires, valve cover and plugs and get your bump start trigger hooked up is hard to do with the engine at a uniform temp for the 12 valves. Go cold and take your time. I think it will be fine.
  15. not in your area, but welcome. You have come to the right place for sure! More info here that is humanly imaginable.
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