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siteunseen last won the day on June 29

siteunseen had the most liked content!

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About siteunseen

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    whatever pays

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    current cars '77 280z 5 speed. Freshly rebuilt L28.
    '72 240Z 4 speed. Pretty fresh L24.

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  1. Here's the one I remember seeing on the forum...
  2. Here's my answer for today's question. The one on the left came with my header but I didn't like them so I bought the bigger ones from Nissan. The first and last holes on my N42 were wallered out so tapping to the bigger size was easy. I have that invoice at home if you can't make out the p/ns.
  3. I read these keep them away so I bought one and what I read was absolutely correct. They are horrible here and jeez louise do they have abnormaly huge balls! I don't know how they can climb so fast with those between their legs.
  4. Finally cleared off the Z work bench after 2 years of "catch all junk bench'. Now to use it for a Z.
  5. Oh hell, now California Datsun will be selling bags of NLA Barn Dirt.
  6. You cannot set the newer style needles like the dvd with Grose jets. You have to hang them upside down from your picture above, actually right side up. I fooled with mine for many months before I realized this. A lot of other guys have run into it too. The newer needle jets are so sensitive they won't hold the weight of the floats like the dvd shows. First off I would straighten the float tabs back into shape. Disregard the red circle. The tangs should look like an upside down slice of cantaloupe not like a ramp. Then hold them right side up and blow through fuel bung while pushing the float upwards. Have something that is .55" wide and hold it against the bottom of the lid. When you are at .55" you should not be able blow any air. Valve is closed. That worked for me. I got bored last winter and did this to make sure they were right. The 10mm down seems to be the easiest and most frequently used way now. I've never done it but here's @jonathanrussell method, sounds simple huh? Regarding adjusting floats....personally I think it is the most important and tedious step in getting the carbs working right. Bending the little tabs one way and then the other in an effort to get the float set just right is insanely frustrating but worth the effort. My personal preference for setting the floats is to remove the bowls, turn down the mixture screws 10 turns, and set the fuel level so that the convex meniscus fuel bubble sits perfectly even with the top of the nozzle. Once you get this accomplished, in my experience, you are able to freely adjust the mixture down to 2.5 turns and then detail adjust using Color Tune or similar. This technique has been documented multiple times on this site and others, fyi.
  7. No I haven't. It's the same one you and I talked about a few years ago. If I remember right you rebuilt an E88? Anyhow I want to do this before too much longer. I have all the parts just no time and the OE E88 runs great on there. Theses were all Schneider had is what they told me. I have an idea of what to do to get them down but always listening/reading for a better way. Andreas, aka Moelk, installed the same one as.mine. i think he used 175s. I'll get it one way the other just not wanting to start a lash pad collection. Thanks for helping over the years. You have done some nice work.
  8. I bought a cam kit that came with 190s. It's a .460 lift. Thank you for your reply.
  9. Did you have to remove any material off the 190 lash pads? If you did would you mind sharing your method? Thank you Steve.
  10. Did you go with #918? That's what i have and it has a brownish tint too. It looks darn good though to me. Here's a shot of mine right after a cutting and wax.
  11. What about straight diesel fuel? It's oily and not as strong as break fluid.
  12. Pucker? I know you don't want to kiss one! You couldn't drive a sewing needle up my arse with a sledgehammer when those underground yellow jackets are hovering about.
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