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motorman7 last won the day on November 13

motorman7 had the most liked content!

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About motorman7

  • Rank
    ZCSD Webmaster


  • Gender
  • Map Location
    San Diego CA
  • Occupation
    Design Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Bought the 'family' 1970 240Z from my folks. My step-father was the original owner. He kept it in very good condition for 39 years. Will try to restore it and keep it in original condition as best I can. VIN is HLS30-02614 so its an early one.<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased a Modified 71Z with an L26 motor. VIN is HLS30-40147<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased an original '73. VIN 160608

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  1. I will have to look a little closer at it. It comes off fairly easy with the wire wheel which makes me think it is paint. Removing a zinc coating definitely takes a lot more effort.
  2. Yes, for the fasteners and their respective hardware, I have tons of pics. I usually take the pics after I remove the part. I primarily focus on the bolt head number, shape and length so I can get the right part in the right spot. For the front portion of the horns, I will paint them the olive green color as you mentioned. For the back side and base, I just did a light wire wheel to remove any heavy rust and paint overspray (from previous paint work). The plater puts these in a chemical bath prior to plating which removes the remaining rust and most crud. It will not remove paint and does not harm rubber. The inside guts of the horn back turn out fine in the plating process. Typically, I do not sand blast parts that I will plate. I find it produces a bit duller finish because of the light texture. I use the wire wheel a lot. It is pretty much a work horse on my restorations. Also, the base mounting part of the horn should be silver zinc, however, I already sent that out. Fortunately, I have some spares in the silver here.
  3. Got all of the small yellow zinc parts cleaned up and ready to send to the plater. This is about 30 pounds of parts...gotta love those USPS shipping boxes
  4. Will know more and have better pics once it comes back from the sand blast. It is there now. We should have pics also. From the pics above, looks like the replacement panel was spot welded on top of the original floor (after rusted area was cut out) with epoxy used to fill the gaps.
  5. Yes, definitely some serious rust. Nice to have that cut out and new metal welded in. Got the parts back from the Powder Coater. That was quick. Best deal in town....I send them dirty, rusty parts and they come back all nice and clean and powder coated.
  6. Fresh pics from the body shop. Lots going on there. It will go to the sand blaster pretty soon to clean up the deep crevices. Also, I pick up the powder coated suspension tonight. Will show pics of that later.
  7. Got the engine disassembled and will bring to the machine shop tomorrow AM for block hone and and head work. Will also bring the discs and drums and have them turned. Started clean-up on the yellow zinc parts and should have those sent out for plating this week.
  8. Yes, I typically use the complete Energy Suspension kit, except for maybe the steering arm piece. I prefer the original rubber in that location if the part is in good shape.
  9. Got all the suspension parts prepped and ready to take to the powder coat shop. Drilled out the mustache bar bushings using a .25" drill and then cleaned up the inside with a small wire wheel on the drill. We will put in all new bushings for the suspension.
  10. Yes, I saw that on BaT, very impressive!
  11. Got the silver zinc parts prepped and ready to send out for plating. Just had to clean off some over-spray from the previous paint job and heavy dirt from the parts. The plating company does the rest.
  12. Disassembled all of the suspension components today. Most of this will be sent out for powder coating. Will look nice when it comes back. Got both the spindle pins out. As always, one was pretty easy to remove and is probably re-usable. The other took a lot of pounding to remove as you can see in the pics. Probably won't be using that short extension anymore. Same thing with the front suspension lower arm, one bushing came out pretty easy, the other was a challenge. (wasp nest included) Not sure why this happened to the front crank key, but definitely will replace this part. I am thinking that the pulley bolt was not torqued which led to the key being deformed. Interesting, first time I have seen that. And yes, that is a wood screw 'securing' the manifold to the head. Probably just need to tap the hole so I can put in the correct fastener here.
  13. And a few more engine pics. Haven't really done that much here....just temporarily added a few parts to the block so i can keep track of them.
  14. Here are a couple pics from the shop. Went over the car with Miguel and discussed the plan with the body. Ironically, he said the body looks pretty reasonable with rust in the typical areas which was good to hear. However, the floor was not as nice as I had thought. Apparently the nice flat floor is new and was welded in on top of the existing floor. Will know more once the Dynamat is removed from the drivers and passenger floor and the car comes back from sandblasting. In some of the earlier pics that were posted, you can see where the original undercoating was removed (It's very thick) and the newer area is thinly coated.
  15. And she's off to the paint shop! Will switch to part detailing here while Miguel starts work on the body.