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Everything posted by siteunseen

  1. I fixed my 240's cracks with fiberglass weave and ABS black glue. Worked it on the underside and it turned out great.
  2. Another idea... I've read on here where cars that sat needed fuel poured into the overflow bungs to get the floats moving up and down maybe unsticking the fuel valves? If you get the float chambers full of fuel at least it would run for a little longer than ether. Maybe if you got it going and worked the throttle rod it would fix itself? Kinda like an "Italian tune up". Good luck!
  3. Is the filter on the inner fender full? Run a hose off the outlet nipple of the pump into a can and work the arm. See if it pumps gas out. Also a good place for the pressure gauge.
  4. siteunseen

    Stroker 3.1.jpg

    Which FPR are you using? I just told a guy there weren't any good ones less than $250. How bad did I do?
  5. The '78's a lot easier to replace than the previous years. It only has one inlet and then the return to the fuel tank line. I bought from rockauto for about $70 IIRC? I made myself an aluminum rail and it really helped displace the heat. The critical measurements are in post #21 from our good friend @Willoughby Z And Zeds dead on about those adjustable FPRs. The only one I've ever read that held pressure was an Airtech I believe, $250. You can make your own gauge for $20 and put it after the fuel filter similar to @EuroDat's.
  6. Pilots love the Zs. Or Z driver's love to fly? Which was first for you Kats?
  7. Do you have the elastic cord and hook that holds the rear deck while messing with the spare? Those are mostly broken.
  8. I recently received a fusible link upgrade from a Cadillac car from @wal280z I'm not doing the swap until it cools off here, October maybe? If I end up not using those you're welcome to them. I haven't spent time reading the directions yet so I'm not positive it's still used?
  9. Same here. I haven't been out in 3 days. Going a little stir crazy, alcohol helps.
  10. If it has the oe radio still, doubtful, 240260280 needs the knobs. The steering wheel is easy to get. And drum role here.......the carbs. I know they're gone but wishful thinking.
  11. Thats what I did on my hood emblem when I removed it for cut and buff of the old paint when I first bought the car. They made a click noise when they were seated. I did not push them up onto the plastic post. Barely on then pushed the emblem down, click click.
  12. Heavy on the idiot... id·i·ot sa·vant noun a person who has a mental or learning disability but is extremely gifted in a particular way, such as the performing of feats of memory or calculation.
  13. They made a big difference on my cars. Glad you like your's. Well spent money in my opinion. Are they from MSA?
  14. New emblems should come with those barrel clips. I bought some from my local Nissan's parts department. Part number is in the first post..
  15. For visual verify isn't that when the first 2 lobes are up-ishy looking?
  16. Best money I've ever spent, legally.
  17. Does it run better above 2,500rpm? That's where mine cleared up and in the end I had to do the coolant temp sensor tweak to the ECU. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
  18. Are the first 2 cam lobes pointed up? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html If it's at TDC the pulley should only be able to go on with the slot for the square key pointing straight up. Is your AFM plugged in and sealed up good? You should check your vacuum and fuel pressure. Make sure these aren't crossed up too.
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