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AK260

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About AK260

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  1. Jerry, sounds like you need to start a business selling those globally ;) there is certainly a lot of demand!! [emoji106][emoji106]
  2. Hello chap - another request from the UK pls. Jon do you want to share postage?
  3. and I was just about to send you a link to this post - then I realised it's you!!!! [emoji1787] :p Ps. Seen this ? https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102748-build-after-24-years/
  4. ^^^ wot he said ^^^ Let's not forget rockauto ;) https://www.rockauto.com/
  5. Thanks guys, all great insights. I did look at chokes before but I haven't recently - so I will undo the cables and make sure the jets are returning fully. John, I will try what you suggested before doing that. Will also get vac gauge out and let you know of any leaks. Next up, I need to get these bad boys on and head for a RR tune again. But I do want to find the root cause of this annoyance first!
  6. Good call that man. So, installed 123 last summer and blew the back box the same day. Compression tested and all well. Found HT lead issues a couple of days later Replaced HT leads a week later and the world became a better place but unsmooth idle. Changed dizzy back to 280zx - power better but still issues with steady throttle. Changed cap and rotor - much the same. Changed back to 123. Changed plugs and coil also a week later. No difference. Slept for winter. New cap and rotor on 123 6 months later (last week) all good. Retuned carbs on Friday last week. All good right until I pulled the plugs for the last time to check colour. Plugs back in not smooth anymore on part throttle or idle. Changed plugs again in case I damaged them, no difference. Checked all electrical connectors again etc. No difference. Changed back to 280zx dizzy last night still the same. But interestingly no vac advance at idle just at fast idle. Also stalls with 280zx one at idle but not on 123 (due to anti-stall timing). So it made me think about vac leaks. Does that help?
  7. Time for some collective thinking please oh wise heads. Problem: the car feels like it's "missing" constantly but randomly (I.e. Not always on the same Cyl). Mainly on steady throttle or idle. Goes like stink but tries to die when idling. Plugs all look the same, like they are firing and chocolate brown if taken out after hard acceleration and ign off + neutral. It feels like it would, if a carb was way out of balance or a cyl not firing correctly. Engine: L28, 10.5:1, 270 degree high lift cam, Dynamic Compression c. 205PSI across all 6, pertronix flamethrower coil, 8.5mm HT leads, NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 1.1mm , 123 ignition. Z therapy SUs / SM needles. When did it start: I fitted the 123 ignition, stupidly following the instructions and the no.1 plug position on the cap was not correct against where the rotor was pointing - timing 120 degrees out. It resulted in a condition technically referred to as "car-no-startie" followed by a baaada boom!!!! Biiig bada boom, bada big boom. Goodbye baffles, hello shiny new straight through silencer! :D Coincidentally, later I found the magnecore leads had breaks that came to the fore after the dizzy change, resulting in intermittent ignition issues and on power/wot popping - according to the condescending chap on the phone at magnecore this failure is my fault for not unplugging them often enough!!! Not sure how that is possible as my HT leads are on and off like a tart's knickers!! No matter, at least I know what not to buy next time. So that made me think HT was to blame. It seemed to go away of it's own accord but it's back again. What I have done so far: replaced coil, leads, two different distributors (280zx 12-80 and 123 ignition). New plugs, Cleaned plug holes and threads for a strong Earth. Checked all low tension connectors are clean and tight. Checked all HT leads for breaks and connector stability when on. New caps and rotors on both dizzies. Engine Earth checked for loose connections. Interestingly the thick ground cable from battery to starter body has 5ohms impedance (eeeew) so new one on order (but it ran fine previously with the same cable so it can only get better with more volts). To prove it's not the 40 year old wiring, I even ran direct cables from battery to coil (with a fuse of course, which is very much needed to stop the engine - a condition technically known as "car-no-stoppie"). Carbs balanced to near perfection and previously RR tuned with needles profiled to match the engine. Using the lifting pins makes the revs go high briefly then settles back down to where it was so I think the mix is OK. Timing on 123 set to: 800 rpm is anti-stall and it works well. She was flying like a hell cat the other day but then after idling for a while it started again and won't go away even when fully cooled down. When on power or WOT I can leave black lines everywhere so the power is healthy. I'm strongly tending to a Vac leak now. Could the backfire through exhaust and intake have blown a hole in the manifold gasket or the brake booster Vac lines? Could it have damaged the carbs? I checked the butterflies and they are still round ;) ... and flat. Brake booster seems OK as I can pump the pedal 3-4 times after ign off before it starts to fight back. So if anyone has seen such a thing and has any advice beyond my current trouble shooting, then I'm all eyes and thumbs! ;)
  8. AK260

    AK260

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