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About AK260

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    Active Member


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  • Map Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Occupation
    Designer underwear model!

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1977 260z. Theme: look as original as possible, be anything but when the loud pedal goes to the metal. L28, N42 with flat-tops, late E88 extensively ported, 270 degree high lift cam, 10.5:1 comp, ATi Damper, Fidanza Fly, 123 ignition, Flamethrower coil, Z-Therapy SU carbs, Z-Story Race / Sport full system. 232BHP @ 6400, 210lbft@5000. S12w and vented discs front, funky cool dums rear. Likes eating hot-hatches at the lights, loves a good massage with wax, purrs when stroked and hates the rain.

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  1. I know too little about points systems but what I would ask is the dumb question: are you sure it’s not an Electrolytic capacitor connected the wrong way? The only things I’ve seen in the past burning caps are: 1. over voltage 2. incorrect orientation of electrolytic caps 3. Excessive heat (i.e. how are your engine bay temps when this occurs?) 4. Ferroresonace / harmonics with the source that result in undamped oscillations If we say 4 is highly unlikely and 2 is also not the case then you are left with voltage and heat. If you were dramatically over-volting then should other things not be affected also? E.g. gauges etc? Or could there be a 5. Rubbish quality Chinese capacitor being rebranded and sold as a quality item.? The easiest way to troubleshoot is to get a high voltage cap from Radio Spares (RS) with the same uF capacity and a high heat rating. Then test run it. Ideally a ceramic cap if you can get it in the required capacity.
  2. Thanks guys, this is all great advice!!!! Jon that is good to know, thank you, will look into that option. Mr grannyknot - you’ve given me something good to think about there. Is suspect I may have those Tokico springs as they don’t look stock and the PO has loads of receipts for Tokico stuff. A great shout on the bump stops too. A member in the UK has kindly offered a set of those springs so once I finally make my mind up he will save me a penny or two on import duties. I will be sure to call Zcardepot tomorrow eve - uk time ;) - thanks for the heads up.
  3. Forgive me father, for I have a soggy bottom! Having put on the new Bridgestone Turanza T005 tyre all round on car, the grip is frankly phenomenal!!! The down side is the occasional rubbing I used to get on the arch lips is now quite frequent as I can load the suspension up a LOT more than with the Michelin “no wet weather grip / easy to slide in the dry” Energy Savers. I also have found that despite my gorgeous Z Story exhaust being tightly installed within 5-10mm of the rear cross member, she has been getting flesh wounds with 2 x 75Kg middle aged men/boys in the car driving over fast bumpy roads and loading up the rear under power in a straight line... The suspension is travelling 3 inches or more to get there. I have what appears to be uncut but lower springs and Tokico HP / Blues installed by PO. The ride height is not silly low either ... So I’m rapidly thinking Eibach progressive springs and Tockico Illuminas all round. This is a 98% fast road car that sees the track a couple of times a year at best. I really don’t want to spend silly money on coil overs etc or to cut bits of my car to make them fit. I have a UK 1977 260z which is very similar in suspension to the American 280z (I believe). The challenge is, I have located 2x brand new fronts and one brand new rear (BZ3013). I cannot for the life of me - except on a Mexican Ebay style platform (that doesn’t like anything other than a Mex mobile phone number) find one for sale - they are showing 10 in stock. Three questions for you guys: 1. Does anyone have one or a pair they would like to help me out with (I will pay generously both financially and donate body parts as appropriate). 2. Has anyone tried this combination and likes it? 3. How do we think the illuminas compare with the newly released Koni adjustable from MSA? I sort of like the fact that compression and rebound are both controlled on the Illumina as I know very little about suspension tech / science and don’t want to do this job twice! Would be most grateful for experienced advice on this. Ps. Someone suggested this but ... erm ... just no!!!
  4. In Europe / the UK we have these available ... http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Bridgestone/Turanza-T005.htm Just put 195 70 14 on mine and WOW!!!! The grip is utterly stunning in the wet and in the dry I ran out of courage and wheel arch clearance before the grip did. Very good feel too without being a nuisance. Highly recommended if available where you are. I was in two minds when considering the types of cars they typically go on but on a Z they are utterly superb.
  5. I went with Fidanza flywheel and Exedy clutch and pressure plate for a 280zx Turbo 2+2. Great pedal feel, never slipped under hard use and best of all i have a very revvy motor without slow speed driving issues. It took me 4 hours to do a 1:45 journey to Silverstone in stop/start traffic on Friday. No issues at all. You just have to learn to dial in 500 more rpm when pulling out of junctions but you soon get used to it.
  6. This clearly left an impression on me - I was dreaming about it for most of the night!! ;) Glad you have some ideas about root causes.now comes the fun bit, going shopping, improving, enhancing etc
  7. I fell off the road in the wet a few weeks back - actually whilst taking it quite easy for once!!! My Michelins were 7 years old so the rubber had gone off Here in the UK, the best all rounder I could find was Bridgestone Turanza T005. Which for good reviews for wet traction and dry in this size. The other option is of course the ultra expensive Michelin MXV-P classic tyres. At £300 per corner it was a bit too salty for my tastes!
  8. GULP!!! Something seriously wrong there to have done that to your cam lobe!!! Is there a valve sticking too!?!?!!! Do we know what’s caused it? Glad you got the SUs sorted though. [emoji106]
  9. Unless of course you live in the UK and by the time you add shipping, 30% import duties on the cost + postage, a $12 “processing fee” and a weak GBP:USD exchange rate, it more than doubles in price :’( You guys in the US are very lucky to have local access to these toys !!
  10. I can’t be too sure but it was either a ‘99 or a 2000 - it had the S50 engine with 316 ish BHP (IIRC). But what I recall the most is that lovely straight 6 torque laden bark.
  11. Having been one of the first 800 S2K owners in the country I used to love the bahhhhhhh above 6k rpm on EVERY drive. Then I drove my fiend’s BMW Z3M with the same headline 0-60 but that torque curve was just delicious! The Z is very similar in that respect. S2k was a motorbike on 4 wheels and you had to rag it everywhere to get the performance (and that was part of its charm). Z3M, any gear any speed would push you into your seat. Totally different ways to win your heart. Ask yourself what suits your driving best? High rpm / BHP and less low to mid range torque or good spread of torque and lower headline BHP? People buy BHP but drive torque!
  12. ^^^^ wot he said ^^^^ Not withstanding protecting against a weepy windscreen rubber in the future and rust! Rule of thumb: if you can’t see it, it’s rusting in silence! ;) Give it the best possible start in life especially given that you can now and not later!
  13. So Sean, agreed 100000% with Mr Patcon (at least I think he is a Mr! As for being a gentleman, the jury is out on that one)! :P My L28 with E88 head and mostly stock internals* + SU carbs is doing 232BHP / 210lbft. The tuner backed off @6400rpm even though the power was still climbing (he was afraid of it going too lean and melting a piston). From this point on each pony gets exponentially more expensive. The tuner tells me that with better top end fuelling / triples there is another 10-15% in there but that’s a lot of money for another, say, 20bhp. (By the time it’s fully rolling road tuned up I make it well over £2000 / $3000 additional spend). In all honesty the power I have is plenty enough for spirited driving on the public road and safely putting it ALL down. 60mph comes around in 5 seconds and the old lady regularly scares the pants off Subaru Imprezzas and other exotic machinery. But the greatest fun isn’t drag racing off the lights, it’s the lovely power around the twisty roads. Aim for a lovely beefy flat torque curve over headline BHP figures - you will enjoy it more and much more often, in any gear. My engine was built by very experienced chaps doing this for 40 years. They have built a 300bhp NA motor for their time attack machine (no diesel crank either). Don’t even think about what it cost them in parts, blood, sweat and time! Sadly they are all retiring :( As said already, the power in these engines is mostly made in the head. So time and money would be well spent there. Then there are the ancillaries that have to be matched, such as a decent ignition, exhaust system, carbs etc that make a huge and sometimes overlooked difference. There are a lot of very expensive carbs out there that are poorly set up, so budget for a decent amount of time / money on the Rolling Road with an experienced tuner. You could always head for Jenvey throttle bodies and EFI but then, as said before, it gets expensive. Good luck and watching your progress with interest. *Schneider springs / caps, 270 degree cam, 0.48” lift, fully ported head, flat top standard weight pistons 1mm over, larger 280 valves.
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