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AK260

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AK260 last won the day on November 17 2020

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About AK260

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    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Occupation
    Designer underwear model!

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    260z
  • About my Cars
    1977 260z. Theme: look as original as possible, be anything but when the loud pedal goes to the metal. L28, N42 with flat-tops, late E88 extensively ported, 270 degree high lift cam, 10.5:1 comp, ATi Damper, Fidanza Fly, 123 ignition, Flamethrower coil, Z-Therapy SU carbs, Z-Story Race / Sport full system. c.245BHP @ 6400, c.220lbft@5000. S12w and vented discs front, funky cool dums rear. Likes eating hot-hatches at the lights, loves a good massage with wax, purrs when stroked and hates the rain.

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  1. Now what you say makes a LOT of sense!!! Especially so if you consider the picture below where the additional auxiliary pulley is bolted in using those same bolts. I am your a call to ATi at some point to confirm. I guess for good practice you still should put something in those holes to make sure they don’t accumulate water etc. The only thing that comes to mind as I type is, I wonder if it would somehow off balance the damper of those bolts aren’t installed? I would absolutely love to get rid of them, hey are a total nuisance!
  2. Well you know, I did indeed consider that possibility, however, I discounted it as I thought I would probably weaken the fan blades and / or not get it accurately enough and off balance it. As it happens I still have some good safe clearance from the rad. But those bolts are indeed a pain! My engine builder kindly installed them as per instructions in the box. What bolts did you use?
  3. Thanks for sharing! That is really interesting. I had to space mine out about 10mm. I plan to cut the end off an old water pump and use that to space out from behind - with a tiny bit of lathing of course. Much like you I wanted to keep the mech fan. I will likely install a pusher fan at the front for backup on a hot day. Especially as the new (as of 3 years ago) rockauto fan clutch doesn’t seem to want to engage when the engine is hot. I can make it stiffen up with a quick flash of the blow torch but it won’t engage at high engine temps for some reason.
  4. You know, I had the same exact thought when I went back to look at it!! :o
  5. I’m really interested to hear about what you found as I’ve had to use spacers on my fan to clear the ATi’s stickie outie bolts (forgive me if I’m using complex technical terms here)!!
  6. Sorry to hear that dude! Good luck with the new one! I haven’t yet heard a totally silent one on any classic car but then I don’t have any real experience of them other than being an observer ;)
  7. Just gone down to $2700 - the price too is starting to suffer with oxidisation. Seriously though - don’t we think it’s probably worth $1-2k to someone who is going to break it? Given it comes with a spare L28., there must be at least $2k of parts there, no? The glass, wings, roof, carbs, trans, diff, wiring loom, gauges, axles, steering rack, rear disc conversion etc etc etc and the L28 will surely fetch good money on eBay?
  8. I totally get that and it’s very true. However even in the dry they had started to wheel spin out of junctions and feel vague. No other car in front or behind me travelling at the same gentle pace let go / understeered etc at that time. Either way tyres do go off over time and frankly they (and brakes) are keeping you safe and on the road. Relative to how much money we spend on our cars to keep them shiny, I just look at it as a cheap insurance policy not worth skimping on. They basically oxidise over time and go hard. Here’s a good article ... https://www.thetelegram.com/wheels/have-your-tires-reached-their-expiration-date-255224/
  9. Yea indeed sir, I was in my car with my brother in law who was monitoring / writing down cruising AFRs for me at part throttle - so we weren’t even pressing on really. I have a typo above - we were at 3.5k rpm, just at the point where the engine comes on cam. Thanks for asking - yes we were absolutely fine. But I’m pretty sure the driver behind needed a change of underwear, I was very lucky to have been able to hold it and avoid a spin into the barriers - oh and avoid hugging the trees to our left on the edge of the gravel area where we came to a stop. There was some minor damage / scuffing under the car and to the cill on the passenger side where the chunky lumps of sharp gravel got kicked up - but it was easy to surface fill, sand back and re-spray. We got VERY lucky. The video below shows the same corner in the dry (but gunning it). I love this corner and have been doing silly things on it in all weathers and cars for 30+ years! So I was shocked when the car suddenly and without warning lost traction. At the 13/14 seconds mark you can see the gravel on the left where we had all 4 wheels off the road - it ain’t very wide before you fall and hug the trees.
  10. Ps. Just checked and it looks like Bridgestone have stopped making that size but these were a close 2nd when I was looking before ... https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/brands/uniroyal/rainexpert-3
  11. Allow me to be controversial - in my personal experience, tyre rubber really does start to go off it’s best around the 5 year mark. But then most of our cars are garaged / live indoors without UV and at a relatively constant temp. So shouldn’t the tyres last longer? Well, I thought so, until I fell off the road in 2019!! My 14” Michelins with 6.8mm tread on the rears were normally pretty OK. Then I got caught out in a rain shower after a dry spell and coming onto a dual carriageway, onto a long sweeping corner, in second @ 2.5k rpm, when I touched the throttle at no more than 30% there was that real WHOA moment when the rear lost traction and was fought back into line with three pendulums - but not before I went off the road onto a gravel drainage / trap on the side of the road!! I then switched to Bridgestone Turanza T005 tyres and found I could put more than 80% of the power down in the wet!! Hit the same corner several times again in the wet and with more power to prove the point and no issues. I even went to Silverstone the following week and drove around the muddy / wet country roads for the 50th anniversary Retro Run and the track in the pee-ing rain; all with supreme confidence! I guess it depends on how, where and in what conditions you drive. But that experience made me staunch in the belief that they do indeed go off. I just don’t want to go off with them!! Not sure if they are still available on this size but I would highly recommend !
  12. I just posted this onto the other thread ... Not sure how good this is but it “looks” like a remake of the MSA / Pacesetter items ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5-Primary-Datsun-Z-Header-All-Square-Port-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/313386185058?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
  13. Spotted this earlier - looks tasty but no real history I’m aware of, hopefully someone in the US can comment .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5-Primary-Datsun-Z-Header-All-Square-Port-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/313386185058?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
  14. Hey big boy, apologies for the delayed response, I’ve been off planet for a while, but now that I’m back on earth ... I didn’t decide in the end but I am very tempted by the NISMO pump and a fuel regulator / filter like the one linked below which takes it down to 2.5-3.0 psi. Having said all that, we went from torrential rain to prong for one day and I took the Z out for the first time in months and no longer had the issue. So I really have to investigate what in the tank is causing the issue.
  15. If at all helpful, mine is a VW colour, code:LD5Q Sits very well on the car but shows every small scratch / blemish. The up side is, it’s very easy to match! This is from when the PO first had it painted...
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