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z3beemer last won the day on November 28

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About z3beemer

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    Valparaiso, IN
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  • About my Cars
    Z3 BMW Roadster, 69 Mustang Coupe, Factory Five 65 Cobra, 73 240 Z, 2015 Ford F150, 2017 Ford Explorer. MC: 73 Triumph 750, 77 BMW R100RS, 98 BMW K1200RS, 09 Yamaha FJR, 2016 Moto Guzzi Norge 1200, Polaris 500 ATV

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  1. OK Here are more detailed instructions on how to build one of these. Two files attached. One is the drawing with dimensions and a material list. The other is detailed assembly instructions with pictures. If you decide to build one, I suggest reading all the way through the instructions before starting. If anything is unclear, shoot me a message and I'll try to clear things up. Paul (z3meemer) Tube Straightener Fabrication Instructions.docx
  2. Ok I'll write it up and post it And yes, the upper rollers are adjustable Paul (z3beemer)
  3. I'm in the process of tearing down my 73Z project car, and decided to make all new brake and fuel lines now. To save some money and not have to piece several pieces together, I decided to buy 25" rolls of tubing. I wanted to start with straight tube so I looked in to buying a line straightening tool. Well they wanted $100 for one and that was more than I was willing to pay, so I made one. This will work on 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16. It cost me $15 to make. Attached is a picture of it. If there are others interested in making one of these, let me know. If there's enough interest, I'll write up detailed instructions on how to build one. Paul (zbeemer)
  4. I was researching a number of articles in the Tech Article Sections and noticed that many of them that had embedded links were dead links. Some were pictures, some were links to other articles. Is there some way to get to this information or are they just obsolete?
  5. I don't think you're being overly cautious. Too many unscrupulous overseas businesses. Once you do a wire transfer, your money is gone, even if you never get your order. Just offer to pay the PayPal fees. That way you at least have some recourse if they rip you off. If your PayPal account is tied to your credit card, you have an additional layer of protection. If the vendor is unwilling to accept PayPal, I'd tell them "no thanks " and look elsewhere Just my $.02
  6. Just an update on my bumper saga. I contacted Ogden chrome and got quite a run around. After about 2 weeks I finally got to speak with Jose. He quoted me $3200 + shipping to do front and rear bumpers without over bars. I had previously spoke several times with The Chrome Shop in Rock Island, Illinois. Very nice to talk to and very quick to respond to phone calls and emails. Quote: $1200. So far , they are who I'll be using. I'll keep you posted.
  7. Thanks for the update and info. I got a call into Ogden Chrome. I'll see what they have to say. FYI..another place I found is The Chrome Shop in Rock Island, IL Spoke with them several times and they seem like a possibility. Got a quote from them $1200 for front, rear and bumper guards. Extra for over bars but mine are in pretty good shape and I'm not sure if I'll re install them or not, Right now I'm thinking may just use the rear one and leave the front one off. Early stages of restoration so I have lots of time to decide.
  8. Does anyone know if this Denver Bumper is still in business? I tried the number I found Googling it but says its been disconnected. Don't know if I had the right place or not.
  9. Trying to do some research during my tear down. Have gotten a lot of info here, but have a few questions; I have a 73 Z with auto trans but will be changing to manual on the rebuild. I have a spare engine and trans from a 72 Z. I'll be using that trans. I need to clarify some of the wiring. On the auto there are two wires on the left side of the trans (black wires). From what I can tell these are for the kick down solenoid and will not be needed on the manual trans. On the right side of the auto are the four wires , 2 for the inhibitor switch and 2 for the back up lights. I know the inhibitor wires need to be connected together so the car will start with the manual trans. The other two wires are for the back up lights. On the manual trans I only see one switch on the left side of the trans with 2 black wires. What is the switch for? As I see it, I need a neutral safety switch and switch to connect the back up lights. Am I missing something or do I have to add another switch? Thanks in advance for your help.
  10. So if you install bracing, doing one side at a time, do you brace the side you're working on, or the side opposite the one you're working on? Seems if you brace the side your working on it would be difficult to maneuver the pan around the bracing.
  11. I've had several people tell me, and have seen it mentions in several other Floor Pan post, that it is recommend to installing support bracing before starting the floor pan replacement, in order to keep everything in place and square during the process. What I haven't been able to ascertain is where the bracing should go, and how to you install it so it doesn't interfere with the installation. I plan to do one side at a time. Help and recommendations are greatly appreciated (73 240Z).
  12. Plan B. Does anyone know a good source for fiberglass fenders? I found this place out of NJ named Datsun Z Fiberglass with good prices, but after several no return calls, I did a little further research on this vendor. There are way too many complaints and unfulfilled orders. I'm looking for stock style fenders, not custom. Thanks Paul
  13. I'm trying to find a decent set of replacement fenders for my 73 240Z project. I spoke with the guys at Z Car Depot , they have them for $305 each. But the web site states there may be fitment problems. I spoke with them directly (really nice people to deal with) and it seems the fitment problems may be more than just shimming and elongating / adding holes. They said the curvatures may be somewhat off ,but they sold about 10 sets and no one has returned them or complained. I was wondering it anyone has purchased a set from Z Car Depot and if the problems were insurmountable. The shipping will be about another $250-300 ea, but I can probably drive over to their store and pick them up and still save a few $100. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Paul
  14. Not to get politica,l but you can thank the US Government and the EPA for the cost of re chroming. They put so many regulation on the shops that small companies couldn't afford it and went out of business, leaving only large shops in the market. With little competition and massive regulations, we get stuck with astronomical cost.
  15. First let me thank you all for your replies to my dilemma. I'm new here and I really appreciate everyone's input and eagerness to help out. I think I found a home for my Z project. I'm still now exactly sure what works and what doesn't on my 73 Z. So let me pose a few questions. Diseazd informed us that the vin # on the parts Wal280Z and I were discussing were from a 72 Z and not a 73. I don't know much about how Datsun did their vin numbers but mine is 152810 and was manufactured Mar 1973. Wayne's vin # is 163037. I would think with it being 10,000 digits higher it would be a 73 as well (yes/no?). Second, the "L" bracket... in looking in the Datsun factory manual, it does not show the bracket. It just shows the clevis on the master cylinder attaching directly to the pedal. Maybe it is just showing a "typical" illustration and not an actual one. If all it takes is adding the L bracket to the pedal I can easily weld one onto the clutch pedal. Third: I was wondering if anyone who has a 73 would be able to provide a picture of the actual 73 clutch pedal and a picture of the brake and clutch master cylinders as viewed from the engine compartment. Thanks again for all your help, hopefully I'll be able to return the favor. Paul (z3beemer)