Jump to content


Subscribing Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About z3beemer

  • User Group: Subscribing Member

  • Member ID: 33374

  • Rank: EnthuZiast

  • Content Count: 61

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.04

  • Reputation: 49

  • Achievement Points: 697

  • Member Of The Days Won: 1

  • Joined: 11/08/2018

  • Been With Us For: 1370 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:


z3beemer last won the day on November 28 2019

z3beemer had the most liked content!


  • Map Location
    Valparaiso, IN
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Z3 BMW Roadster, 69 Mustang Coupe, Factory Five 65 Cobra, 73 240 Z, 2015 Ford F150, 2017 Ford Explorer. MC: 73 Triumph 750, 77 BMW R100RS, 98 BMW K1200RS, 09 Yamaha FJR, 2016 Moto Guzzi Norge 1200, Polaris 500 ATV

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

z3beemer's Achievements


EnthuZiast (6/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. I'll most likely be sending mine in for the upgrade in a few weeks. Last time I spoke with them they were quoting 3 weeks turn around. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
  2. I've been looking into radio options for my 73 240Z and found a company that will take your radio and update all the internals but maintain the original face plate, housing, etc. It will even maintain full function of the pushbutton presets. It's not cheap, but provides a lot of options that you can pick and choose. Options include, bluetooth, hands free phone, usb, flashdrive, mp3, etc. You will end up with a 180 watt 4 channel unit. I priced it for mine with all the options and the price was $550. The web site is: www.tech-retro.com. They have a good video on the site that demonstrates the unit and all the features. The actual work is performed through authorized dealers throughout the US. The one closest to me is in Chicago area. I've spoke to him several times and he's been very helpful, plus he's a car guy. Paul (z3beemer)
  3. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the seats in my 73 240z. I'm using new foam from MSA. Upon disassembly of the seat back I noticed a layer of brown straw like material about an inch thick that was between the foam and the seat upholstery. Any idea why this is there, and should I reuse it? It smells kind of musty so I don't want to use it if I don't have to. If I do need it, is there some other material available I can use or should I just leave it out all together. Thanks, Paul (z3beemer)
  4. Just wanted everyone to know the great experience I had dealing with Jim (S30Driver). I finally got my fender, one in great shape, and Jim put a lot of work into making it happen. I you ever have the chance to work with him on parts, you can be sure he is reliable and honest. You will never have to worry about his legitimacy. THANKE JIM.
  5. I'm in the process of a 73 240Z restoration project, currently working on an auto to manual trans swap. When I bought the car I got an engine & manual trans with it from a 72 240Z. First: Ther is no netural safety switch on the 72 trans, only a back up light switch. Is there anyway to add one? I thought one way may be to use the existing wires that went to the inhibitor switch on the auto and run them to a stop light type switch, and fabricate a bracket the would activate when the clutch pedal is depressed. The only drawback is that the clutch pedal would always have to be depressed, even when the car is in netural, in order to start it. Second: I know the 73 autos had dual point distributors with the second set of points activated via a relay mounted on the lower left fender when the accelerator kickdown switch is depressed. Since I'll be using the single points distributor out of the 72, what's the best way to connect the wires from the relay to the distributor points? I thought I'd just connect the two wires that went to the two sets of points together, then run one wire to the single point set. Will this work or is there a better way? I guess another alternative would be to determine which wire goes to the main set of point on the auto distributor, run just that wire to the single points distributor, then tape up the unused wire for the second set of points. The unused wire will never get power since the kickdown switch will be remove. Comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Paul (z3beemer)
  6. Dave The location of the filter drier should not be a problem. It's in the exact location as the old dealer installed ARA system. In addition, the filter drier is on the High side of the system. At the pressures R134 systems operate at , there will not be any problem with flow.
  7. Here are a few pics of this unit and what I've done so far. 1st pic, unit installed. The unit is 11" wide. I have it set 6" in on the trans hump so it extends into the passenger area about 5" leaving plenty of leg room. 2nd pic shows the bottom AC hose(High Press) connected to the evaporator, then routed thru the firewall (under the battery tray) then into the engine bay. 3rd pic shows that same hose routed under the battery tray and connecting to the filter/drier mounted on the right inner fender. With the trail fit of the dash it looks like I may need to cut a small section out of the glove box in the upper left hand corner. I'll post more as I progress.
  8. I bought this kit and so far, I'm very happy with it, although I cannot confirm or deny the efficiency, as of yet, because it's not fully installed (complete restoration). I bought the kit specifically for a 240z with integral controls (this allows you to use the existing dash controls). My car originally had a dealer installed ARA system. I had originally planned on converting it from R12 system to R134a but when i looked into it, it was going to be more money and work than just buying a different system. Plus, I think my heater core was shot since the previously had the heater hoses bypassed. I spent a lot of time both before and after purchasing this system discussing the particulars with the owner. JW is the owner and has been in business 40+ years. I like the fact that you can call them and a real person answers the phone and is willing to spend time with you to answer any concerns and questions. You won't find better customer service anywhere. JW is very patient and friendly. I've talked to him so many times I told him he was probably sorry he sold me the system. He's a great guy. Just a few things to consider: This is going to take you more than a few hours! Don't even start it without removing the seats, dash and steering wheel. The instruction are not great but JW has always been available to clarify things. I varied from the instructions quit a bit so don't feel that the instructions are cast in stone. If your considering this system I'd be happy to talk to you and pass on my expierences and suggestions. But let's do it by phone, I talk much better than I type. I'll keep you all posted as I proceed with the installation. As I said this is a complete restoration so I can only do so much until the engine, radiator, condensor, etc. are back in. Here's the company info: Auto AC Solutions. www.autoacsolutions.com (out of Texas) 1-877-542-8192 Owner: JW Regards, Paul (z3beemer)
  9. Ok I know this should be in the classifieds, but I tried it there and the I only got responses from every foreign and domestic scammer. Some who have been members for only 2 or 4 hours. Anyway...I've been looking for a left front fender for a 73 240Z for about the last year and a half. I wasn't really too worried about it because I had plenty of other things to do on the car and was sure something would turn up by the time I needed it. It hasn't. I'm approaching the point where it's going to bring my entire restoration project to a halt. If anyone has a usable left front fender they can part with please contact me. I'm not looking for one in pristine condition, just something I can work with. I do need the front portion that connects to the headlight and fender extension to be in good condition. Even if I can find one that is good from the front of the fender to about 18" back towards the door I could probably section my existing fender and weld them together. Fender with dings, dents and light to moderate rust OK, Thanks Paul (z3beemer)
  10. SteveJ, I read your write up on replacing the internals in your clock and had a few questions. Did you use the original glass from the old clock or the glass from the new on? Likewise, did you use the reset knob from the old clock or the new one? I think I'm going to attempt to do this and I'm trying to get as much info as possible before tackling it.
  11. I started a discussion earlier regarding the felt washers needed when rebuilding the wiper assemble. One of you suggested McMaster Carr industrial felt. That's what I ended up doing. They came out good. Not sure how long they will hold up but they're a lot better than the worn ones that were in there. Unfortunately, I had to buy a 10' strip of it. I ended up using about 6". It's 1-1/2" wide and 1/16" thick. If anyone needs a piece, let me know and I'll mail it to you (no charge as long as it can fit in a business size 9" envelope. Oh, BTW I soaked mine in oil before installing them.
  12. I wrote the above procedure for testing spring tensions a few months ago. I finally got around to taking a few pics of the set up in case the written procedure wasn't clear.
  13. Steve J Thanks for the input. Looks like a good alternative. Haven't taken mine apart yet. After I do, I'll try oiling it as suggested in other post. If that doesn't work. I'll go with your method. The clock you suggested sell new on ebay for $65. I'll let you all know what I find and how it goes. Thanks again.
  14. Had planned to use Zclocks to repair my 73 240z clock based on comments here. Thought the $149 would be a fair price. Just checked his site. The price is now $320. A bit pricey. Any other suggestions "reasonably" priced?
  15. Nothing brings out the scammers like posting an ad in in the "parts wanted" section of the forum. I posted an ad a few days ago looking for a left front fender for my 73 Z project. Within hours I started getting bombarded with replies stating they had one in excellent condition. Just a few clues to be aware of so you don't get burned. See how long they've been a member. One reply I got the person had been a member for 4 hours, another one was a member for 6 days....red flag! Another clue is the stated condition is always excellent...we all know that if you can find one of these it's not going to be in perfect condition. Look at where the message is sent from...it's usually from some oddball source like tap a talk . Some offer to send pictures, but the pictures are usually ones copied from some other source. I had one that sent me pictures from a legitimate ad where I had spoke to the seller who informed me the part had been sold. If you call the number and connect with a real live person who speaks broken English it's more than likely a scam. I replied to one that left an email address. I replied a few days after I got his message...guess what? It came back as an invalid email address. Another red flag is the price is usually very reasonable and includes shipping. The last fender I bought, the shipping was more than the cost of the part. One way to help determine if its a scam (but not perfect) is to ask for specific pictures of the part. I usually ask for a close ups of the front and back of the area where the headlight bucket attaches. It's a shame we have to deal with these low life's. Too bad there's not a way we could screen them out. Maybe we can help each other out by posting detailed info any time we encounter a scammer. Remember the old saying, "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is". Paul
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.