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z3beemer last won the day on November 28 2019

z3beemer had the most liked content!

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About z3beemer

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Valparaiso, IN
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Z3 BMW Roadster, 69 Mustang Coupe, Factory Five 65 Cobra, 73 240 Z, 2015 Ford F150, 2017 Ford Explorer. MC: 73 Triumph 750, 77 BMW R100RS, 98 BMW K1200RS, 09 Yamaha FJR, 2016 Moto Guzzi Norge 1200, Polaris 500 ATV

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  1. Thanks AZ-240z. That's exactly what I needed. Guess I need to get the grinder out and see if I need to replace the outer rocker panels as well a the fenders. Thankfully the inside rockers are in goon shape.
  2. I'm working on a restoration project for a 73 Z. I'm trying to figure out what the proper mating should be between the back of the front fender and the front of the rocker panel. Currently it appears there is no visible seam where they come together. You would think there would be a visible seam where they butt together. I think the previous owner may have just bondo 'd the seam then sanded it smooth. The z service manual doesn't really show a clear illustration on how they come together. I dug out a few pics I had of the 71 I owned years ago but I cant tell from that either and no visible seam is appears. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks in advance for your help.
  3. I ran across a decent (still needs work) front fender from a 78 280Z. I would be using it on a 73 240. How well will it fit or will I have to do a lot of modifications to it? Thanks Paul
  4. I haven't checked yet to too see if Zcar Depot will be restocking but I'm fairly sure they will be. Also I think Motorsport handles the same ones. It looks like some of the vendors mentions so far only handle repair panels. I'm looking for complete fenders. Thank you.
  5. I'm working on a 73 240Z and in the need for some decent fenders. I was considering buying them from Zcar Depot but notice that the ones they sell have a warning that they may not be exact replacement and may need some modifications. I was wondering if anyone has purchased these and how much "modification" was needed to get them to fit properly. I'd hate to pay the price and all the high shipping cost and find out they look like hell wen I get done. On a related note, if anyone has a decent set (or just the L or R) of used ones they'd like to sell, I'd be interested. Thanks Paul

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I need a heater control knob for a 73 240Z. This is the knob that goes one the slide lever on the heater control unit. I only need one. I believe they are the same on 70-73 models. If you have one let me know how much you want for it.


  7. View Advert Heater Control Knob I need a heater control knob for a 73 240Z. This is the knob that goes one the slide lever on the heater control unit. I only need one. I believe they are the same on 70-73 models. If you have one let me know how much you want for it. Advertiser z3beemer Date 12/24/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 19730 Model 240Z  
  8. Hi all. I'm approaching the dreaded floor pan replacement on my 73 Z. The good new is the trans tunnel and the rockers appear to be pretty solid so I should have something to weld to. I may need to add some metal at the transition point up front near the firewall. I have a few questions for those of you who have done this: Is it better to have the car sitting on the wheels or propped up on jack stands? If on jack stands, it there a particular spot to place the jack stands or just anywhere solid ( eg: suspension, differential, etc). Which way is easier to install them: down from the top or up from the bottom? If coming up from the bottom, is it possible to leave the front seat mount in place at the trans tunnel and rocker. I figure if this is possible it would act as bracing and eliminate cutting it out and re welding it back in. For some reason my car does not have the frame rails that run under the floor pans from front to back. My guess is that maybe someone removed them and tried to patch the holes (big holes) in the floor pans. My floor pan kit includes the rails and I intend to install them. I know where they start at the front because a portion of the rail is still there. What I don't know is where are they suppose to terminate at the back. I'm thinking at the cross rail right behind the rear seat mounts???? (yes/no?) Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated. Z3beemer (Paul)
  9. OK Here are more detailed instructions on how to build one of these. Two files attached. One is the drawing with dimensions and a material list. The other is detailed assembly instructions with pictures. If you decide to build one, I suggest reading all the way through the instructions before starting. If anything is unclear, shoot me a message and I'll try to clear things up. Paul (z3meemer) Tube Straightener Fabrication Instructions.docx
  10. Ok I'll write it up and post it And yes, the upper rollers are adjustable Paul (z3beemer)
  11. I'm in the process of tearing down my 73Z project car, and decided to make all new brake and fuel lines now. To save some money and not have to piece several pieces together, I decided to buy 25" rolls of tubing. I wanted to start with straight tube so I looked in to buying a line straightening tool. Well they wanted $100 for one and that was more than I was willing to pay, so I made one. This will work on 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16. It cost me $15 to make. Attached is a picture of it. If there are others interested in making one of these, let me know. If there's enough interest, I'll write up detailed instructions on how to build one. Paul (zbeemer)
  12. I was researching a number of articles in the Tech Article Sections and noticed that many of them that had embedded links were dead links. Some were pictures, some were links to other articles. Is there some way to get to this information or are they just obsolete?
  13. I don't think you're being overly cautious. Too many unscrupulous overseas businesses. Once you do a wire transfer, your money is gone, even if you never get your order. Just offer to pay the PayPal fees. That way you at least have some recourse if they rip you off. If your PayPal account is tied to your credit card, you have an additional layer of protection. If the vendor is unwilling to accept PayPal, I'd tell them "no thanks " and look elsewhere Just my $.02
  14. Just an update on my bumper saga. I contacted Ogden chrome and got quite a run around. After about 2 weeks I finally got to speak with Jose. He quoted me $3200 + shipping to do front and rear bumpers without over bars. I had previously spoke several times with The Chrome Shop in Rock Island, Illinois. Very nice to talk to and very quick to respond to phone calls and emails. Quote: $1200. So far , they are who I'll be using. I'll keep you posted.
  15. Thanks for the update and info. I got a call into Ogden Chrome. I'll see what they have to say. FYI..another place I found is The Chrome Shop in Rock Island, IL Spoke with them several times and they seem like a possibility. Got a quote from them $1200 for front, rear and bumper guards. Extra for over bars but mine are in pretty good shape and I'm not sure if I'll re install them or not, Right now I'm thinking may just use the rear one and leave the front one off. Early stages of restoration so I have lots of time to decide.
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