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CanTechZ last won the day on October 10

CanTechZ had the most liked content!

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About CanTechZ

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    Registered User


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    Chilliwack, BC, Canada

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    '70 240Z owned since 1978

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  1. Here are a couple of pics from when I was taking mine out. Here is before removal.
  2. That sag is on all four sides of four screw carb isolators. I believe it was intentional as the sag looks the same on all four. Three screw carb isolators are flat on three sides and a different shape on the bottom for the water passage.
  3. Another great video Ryan, thanks for posting. Nice to see your hatch hinge seals came out in good shape. For cleaning those up I plan to use a Kleen-Flo product called Honey Goo Holistic Rubber Care. It's mainly for weather stripping but works well on softening most rubber parts like marker light and tail light seals as well as floor plugs and grommets etc. I sprayed this stuff liberally on the firewall grommets for hoses and electrical before removal and it worked wonders on these 50 year old rubber bits. http://www.kleenflo.com/products/809.html#:~:text=Honey-Goo Holistic Rubber Care,for that new look shine. Nice that the handbrake cable assembly came out so easily for you. Mine was a *itch getting those cable clips off, you made it look so easy. Although I must say I did it the hard way by not removing the rear axle and diff assembly first. Cheers, Mike
  4. Interesting Jim, with my car being a UN, Only 12 cars older than @240dkw's UN car, I thought I would check my dizzy for a painted on number. I found that mine is a D606-52, but the number is engraved, not painted. Lot's of small variances with our cars. Cheers, Mike
  5. I recently received a pair of front frame rails from ZeddFindings. They measured slightly narrower than the originals by 2mm. The ZF rails are 61mm wide and originals on my 7/70 240Z measured 63mm and 58mm wide at the narrow part in the rad area. My rad measured 640mm wide at the bottom, in the area my frame rails measured 647mm inside. With ZF rails that would be 641mm., or only 1mm clearance for the rad. But in reality it will be tighter as there also formed clips on the lower rad support that may interfere. Here is a sketch and picture to help explain.
  6. I wonder if from factory they used a clear chromate conversion coating like clear alodine to give a small level of protection.
  7. It is strange that no decimal point can be seen in those mil readings. For reference the seller of the "Green Monster" claimed 2 - 5 mils on BAT and posted a video of the readings on that car and other cars. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-124/
  8. Thanks Dan, the weep hole on my Nikki pump is in a different location and doesn't seem to be leaking at that point. My weep hole is on the opposite side just above the pump fastening nut. It does seem to be leaking at the pin, here is are a couple of pictures. I am interested in your kit, as my parts car engine also has a Nikki pump that hopefully I can rebuild. If your kit will work with a Nikki please PM me.
  9. Nothing wrong with your math. I thought the red car readings were 2.2 Mil average. I didn't zoom in, 22 Mil sounds to heavy.
  10. Not a paint expert but when you convert the white paint readings from metric to imperial you get 9.8 mil, 7.9 mil, 5.9 mil respectively. If the repaint had a heavy primer plus top coat over the original paint you might get those kind of readings.
  11. Thanks Dan, I don't think my pump is rebuildable. Mine pumps fuel fine, but has a slow oil leak at the pin for the rocker. Is your complete rebuilt put a Nikki? Mike
  12. Thanks Ryan, I appreciate the kind words. Mechanically most components are in good shape, so it will mainly be a clean and re-assemble effort. I do have a few oil leaks to deal with and the fuel pump will need to be replaced. I will have to do lots of plating and source a few parts, like a mirror and shock tower vinyl, but most parts are reusable with a little elbow grease and some painting. I am lucky that my car has been kept mostly stock for it's whole life and retains virtually all of it's original parts. It is fortunate that most hard to find items, like the dash, console, early radio are in good to very good condition. Also electrically speaking my car has very few issues, mostly good except for the very intermittently working clock. I have really enjoyed the videos you have been posting in your build thread and seeing the progress. Cheers, Mike
  13. Here is an old discussion that has lots of good info on the subject of engine casting numbers, post #44 is close to yours and is a P30
  14. This weekend I removed the E-brake cable and the long brake tubes and fuel lines from under the car. I also removed the pedal box and related bits, and stripped the tar mat insulator from the LH front floor and under the seat. The interior is getting quite bare. Here is how the floors look, It amazes me how rusty the drivers side is when, except for the toe board area, the passenger side is almost pristine. Even the joint in the floor behind the RH seat, and the areas around the seat supports are perfect. To round out the weekend, I bagged up the parts that have been accumulating in my garage for safe storage, until I get to cleaning them up for re-assembly. I'm doing my best to stay organized.
  15. Also no mention of work done to the mustache bar, it looks to like it has the newer style bushings without the flanged ends. Also the washers are the newer type. Normally wouldn't need servicing at 31K miles, IMHO. Regarding @240260280's mention of the oil pressure sensor, the wiring retainer is also missing. The one that picks up an engine mount bolt.
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