CanTechZ

I agree with @Terrapin Z' but I would like to add one small point. Unless I'm mistaken, the function of the openings in the black panel on the inside of the hatch is to let air escape (not enter) through attached rubber flaps that act as a one way check valve. Supposedly to block exhaust fumes from entering. Here are a few pics from my 7/70 car while I was taking it apart, hope they help.

Today with my son's help I finished assembling/installing the rolling support frame for my shell. The Unistrut channel comes in 10 foot lengths so I decided to leave the long members full length. Here is the result, no major issues were encountered.

That's very creative, thanks for finding and sharing.

Welding is the typical method for something like this, besides not having a welder, I just wanted to try something different. Bolted does offer other benefits, like allowing for easy adjustments or reuse for another project. Great idea your friend had on the wood frame rotisserie, I would like to see a picture of it in use. People tend to work with materials they are comfortable working with. I wonder if he is a member of the local club I'm part of, the BC Z Car Registry. Also late yesterday I picked up the caster plates that I had a friend make. This was the only part I had to actually make for this project, I gave them a quick coat of primer last night and did a test fit this morning. My son will be helping me with final assembly tomorrow. I neglected to tell him that part of job was helping me clean up the garage as well. Lol

I will be sending my shell to the body shop soon, so I have been designing a support frame with casters that I can attach to the bottom of the chassis. I will use this to get the shell onto a deck truck for transport, and to use during the reassembly process. It is similar to what @inline6did, main difference with mine is that it is a fully bolted Unistrut construction, as I have no access to a welder at home. Here is an image of the final concept. This morning I finished doing some pre-assembly, test fits and checks for any missing any hardware. So far it has gone together without issue, kind of like the Meccano set I had as a kid. Here are a few pics, I will be completing this project over the weekend, and will post pics with it fully installed.

The silver '71 that went RNM is better described as a survivor. I say that based on comments by the seller. IMHO it was never really a "driver" in the daily driver sense. Only 12K miles from 1971 to 1975, and it must have been parked for winters, being a Canadian car from Ontario where roads are heavily sanded and salted. I was still very surprised that it was bid to $98K and still did not sell considering the lack of detailing. I much prefer a well restored to original car, like the current one up from @CW240Z72 over a survivor any day of the week. Although I'm a little biased as I'm restoring my own right now. Lol

Here's one to watch, look familiar. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-209/

My 7/70, engine number L24-010178, came with one of the the brazed oil pans.

I know this is a restored example but if you haven't already you should check out the build discussion for @jayhawk's '73. It's absolutely beautiful.

I used a 3D parametric cad software package called Solid Edge, made by Siemens. This is actually only the 3D model, it looks like a drawing because I imported a scaled image of the chassis from my 1970 FSM and inserted it as the background to build the model on. Still had to a lot of measuring off my car and the parts I have from Klassic Fab, but it's good to have the FSM drawing to confirm the main datums.

Great job, I did similar work to my fronts a few years ago but not quite to this level. It's very satisfying to see the end result after all of the effort it takes. So much nicer to use original parts and not just replace with reproductions.

In case you might be interested, here is how I plan to make a rolling support frame for my shell using Unistrut. I'm using the same mounting points as you did. Hopefully I will be assembling it in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the inspiration, I will be posting the end result in my own resto thread.

This might help from the 1973 JDM parts book, early circled in blue, 1973 circled in red. I would assume it was the same for North America. It's not shown very clearly in the N.A. parts book.

It seems to be a 1973 thing, here is a picture from a BaT auction of a 1973. Pic #206 from here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-169/ And here's my 1970,

Since I now have both, here is a set of pictures comparing Klassic Fab rails with Zedd Findings. Both appear very good, but the KF rails are definitely much closer to original, at least when compared to the rails on my 1970. The ZF rails are more of a "universal' fit for 240/260/280, as they are formed, they are very straight. The KF rails I received have a little waviness to the lower horizontal flange, but it's not a show stopper. Regarding the shape of the rail near the rad support, I only just now noticed that in addition to the width being narrowed, the height is actually shorter as well. You can see this clearly in the pictures.