CanTechZ

Here's my car in the summer of 1980, getting ready for the big brewery strike that didn't really materialize into much. The strike in the summer of 1978 lasted over four months. At least I wasn't thirsty that summer.

The 1970 owners manual was probably first written for non-emissions cars and not updated as emission control items were mandated and added. Here is a snippet from a 1972 owners manual, it specifically mentions to not press or pump the accelerator pedal during starting, For reference here is a picture comparing my "non-emissions" engine (top) and the engine of of @Zeeguy62's car with emissions controls (grabbed from the Hemmings post). Interestingly, his car is has a VIN that is only 376 units earlier than mine.

I have no idea who she is, but I like @siteunseen's guess. I'm pretty sure the above pictures posted by @Carl Beckwere first posted here: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13223&hilit=chilliwack+datsun There are quite few other cool old pictures on there as well.

Regarding starting your 240Z here's a snippet from the 1970 owner's manual:

This is the dealership where I purchased my used '70 240Z in 1978, traded in a 610 sedan.

Here is a snippet from the picture @SpeedRoo posted in another thread of his RH OEM fender, it has same four hole pattern. My fenders are also OEM replacements that I purchased in the early eighties from my local Datsun dealer for my first restoration.

Just heading off to work but here are a few pictures. I can take some measurements tomorrow morning. Strangely there are four holes but only three pins on the emblems. Same but opposite on the right hand side. And of course the three pins are not in a perfectly straight line. The pin behind the "D" is slightly lower.

That is correct.

It was Igor, but this was one on the best scenes. Abnormal >>>> Abby normal. As you already knew.

The googly eyed '71 on BAT just sold for $36,750. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-165/

I have not used that product, but I will say if you are trying to get close original, I would say test spray something first to see the amount of "metallic". The original is a matte finish that had virtually no metallic except a very minimal amount at certain angles. Five years later I am still very happy with the choice I made, as in the link above that @siteunseenposted. HTH, Mike

Hey Ryan, after seeing the pictures from Dan, I had a closer look at my car and found It doesn't have the offset on the RH side. The offset on the LH side must have been due to some minor old damage? It was strange how straight and even the offset is, although it does appear to be opposite to the top edge of the stiffening doubler plate on the far side. So much for my "bloody legend" status, LOL.

Here are a few measurements from my '70. The area where the bumper mounting bracket mates, is vertical. Please note that the vertical steel section above the surface where the bracket mates, is parallel with an offset of about 2-3mm. The radius you wanted varies, I measured about 55mm in line with the back bracket hole and reduces to a radius of about 40mm at the leading edge. Hope this helps Mike

Here is a pantone color I found that's very close to 918 orange. https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/717-C Here is a comparison to my car. my paint on the left and pantone on the right, also with a couple of other pantone colors below. Here is the picture that I cropped for my color. As it is original paint behind the tail light finisher there is no fade. I took the picture with no flash in natural light, overcast sky, not direct sun. I found the pantone color 717 C, after a few tries here: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder

Very good step by step instructions in Tom Monroe's Book that I mentioned above