CanTechZ

I'm of the opinion that your car did not originally have bellows, as they appear to have started for the 1972 model year in 9/71. I have never seen what are called complete assemblies (early type) offered for sale with them. Not saying there is anything wrong with adding them. Here are some measurements that might help with adding them. The travel required for full motion of the choke linkage is 1-1/8" and the compressed length of the bellows must be 3/4" or less. This is based on open and closed measurements I just took from my carbs, and I also checked at the choke lever on a drawing fr

Here is what my early choke cable assembly looks like. There is not enough room for the bellows after accounting for full travel of the choke.

I believe, It was started 09/71, the one I had was a 18410-E8803, but I think 18410-E8800 was actually the first version on the "new design" and it started 09/71.

Does your car have the new style choke cable assembly (1972) or the early 70/71 style? Looking at the BaT sale for your car, it looks like the early type. The early type did not have the rubber bellows. I know this because I accidentally bought a 1972 style choke cable assembly and had to remove the bellows to use it in my 1970. Even then it was a problem because the new style cables are shorter. If your car has three screw carbs they might work as I believe the linkage was different than the four screw carbs on mine. I ended up selling it and repairing my broken early cable. Here is a d

Continued with creating templates for the tar mat insulators. I have finished and uploaded templates for the rear deck area to our downloads in the cad files section, https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/142-1970-240z-floor-tar-mat-templates/ Here is a picture of testing the templates to confirm fit. All that is left to do is the transmission tunnel area, hopefully I will get that done soon, before the shell goes to the body shop.

A little of topic but I have tested a product called Revive to refresh the finish of an old steering wheel from my parts car. I was very impressed with the result and there is no greasy feel to the surface. This steering was very grey looking before I started, but I didn't take a picture at that state. I first cleaned the wheel with soap and water and after it was thoroughly dry I applied the product.

Amazing attention to detail. Very inspiring.

That's the the idea, carefully flex the window piece away to get a gap on the rear vertical edge to slide the rear panel in behind. Like I said before my preferred method is with the window panel out.

In my case the carpet was glued down, so it was better to remove the quarter window panel. Or at least the fasteners and seat belt shoulder strap as shown in blue here, that method also worked for me as long as I was careful.

No question that you have to be careful when flexing these old panels. It can be done if you are careful without removing the quarter window panel, but it does help. On mine it was necessary because of the change from vinyl to carpet on the shock towers. Good luck with what ever method you use. At least the weather is warm, which helps with flexing the panels as compared to winter temps.

In addition to what @jfa.series1mentioned, I have found that it helps to have the panel around the quarter window out before installing the rear, due to the overlap of the two panels. In your picture I can't tell if the quarter window panel is installed.

This past Sunday I removed the front and rear suspension, officially my car is no longer a roller. All went without issue thanks to the detailed instructions in Wick Humbles book and the video posted by @240ZBUILTBYME on his build thread. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64416-240zbuiltbyme-1971-240z-hs-001063-project-sheena/?do=findComment&comment=607208&_rid=7818 Also it has very useful to have lots of spare jack stands and a small extra floor jack. Here are a few pics of the setup and process for removing the front crossmember and suspension as a unit.

Looking good, great to see the progress you are making. Cheers, Mike

Nice, good to hear. I plan to have mine rebuilt as well. Although it still works great and as far as I know it hasn't been worked on. Not bad service for 50 years.