CanTechZ

With the shortage of S30's on BAT, this might be interesting to watch, it's the 50th anniversary edition : https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2020-nissan-370z/

Thanks for clarifying, makes sense now. Cheers

@w3wilkeshere are a few pics of my 1970 Canadian spec (HLS30UN). It has a similar linkage part to the OP but without the screw hole. @dutchzcarguy What year is your Euro spec car. I see it has the E41 balance tube, but it has an E88 Intake and some of the fitting spots on top of the balance tube are drilled & tapped for extra fittings, unlike mine. Just curious.

I agree with @grannyknot and @jfa.series1 that the brake tubes originally were yellow cad or zinc plated. Here is a picture of one of the original tubes that I have recently removed from my 7/70 car. They were covered with under coating and as I scrape it off there is lots of evidence of yellow colored plating.

Here is what the stamped 7 looks like, from my 7/70

That looks like a very good replica. Here are pictures of my original (1970) in similar orientation for comparison. The only difference I noticed was the quantity and orientation of the staples.

I also want to thank Dan, @240dkw for selling me the rebuild kit for my Nikki fuel pump. It was very generous of him to include a set of the plastic retainers for my spark plug leads. I was missing one and most of the others were cracked. Here is how they look on my 1970 dated coded Yazaki leads, The yellow date code and Yazaki writing is quite faded but is still legible. In 2005 I put on new spark plug leads as I couldn't remember when I last changed them. I almost tossed these out before I realized that they were original. The distributor cap is not original, but it is a Hitachi, and has the logo. I purchased it in the early eighties from the parts counter at my local Datsun dealer.

Been a while since my last update. Not much to report but yesterday I removed the main body electrical harness, interior light and rear defrost harnesses and the body antenna cable. When removing these I attached wire to the ends before I pulled them out so that it will be easier to fish them back in when it's time to re-assemble. I also used cling wrap and tape to cover and hold the connectors and branch wires against the main harness bundle, to prevent the harness assembly from getting snagged as I pulled it through the body. Seemed to work well. All of the electrical has now been removed. I will have a bit of work to cleanup this harness but I didn't do any damage, even the grommets are salvageable. The harness all have the original date coded tags intact. Here are pictures of the main body harness, followed by the interior light harness. I was wondering what the number 2 in the triangle after the part number indicates. I thinking that is a revision to the assembly that is still backwards compatible and not requiring a change to the part number.

Here is a picture of the tag from the engine bay of my 7/70. The numbers measure 3.5mm in height and are stamped evenly spaced and at a slight angle.

Those parts look great. My body guy told me about them a while back, and also said that they do really good work. Great to get another positive reference.

Definitely nothing wrong with having two. Here is a picture from a 1970 brochure.

Here are some pictures of the original cables from my 7/70 240Z. @240dkw Hey Dan, I thought that only the positive terminal connector that the "blob" and the negative one was uncovered. Negative: Positive:

Not sure if this will help but recently I uploaded templates for the floor tar mat insulators to our cad files area. They include the cut out locations for the areas marked with x's in the picture above. Here a link to the files: