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w3wilkes last won the day on September 27 2019

w3wilkes had the most liked content!

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About w3wilkes

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    Active Member


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    Layton, Utah
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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    2nd owner. Had a '73 bought brand new in '73 which pretty much rusted to death after 20+ years as a daily driver on Utah roads.

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  • Zcar 1 VIN

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  1. One place you could try is the ZCar club of Colorado, they may be able to help you. http://www.zccc.org/
  2. Stuff like this is what drives the "Series 1" - "Series 2", blah blah discussions. Before 1973 EPA and safety requirements didn't dictate year model changes. Then in the USA for sure 73 and later cars were strictly driven by EPA and safety requirements. You will not see a factory 73 240z with original roundtop carbs or no 2.5 MPH front bumper followed in 74 with the 260z with additional EPA and safety changes.
  3. One odd thing I notice in this picture is it appears that the end of the return line is enlarged for maybe 1/2 inch or so. Is there a possibility that there's a one way valve in there so the fuel can only exit? I haven't seen a 73 this close for almost 30 years so I'm just guessing. I don't recall my series 1 car having that enlarged end when I had the line off it a couple of years ago.
  4. Yes, early 71. Stock ride height, not lowered.
  5. I run the Rota RB's Gunmetal w/polished lip 15X7 +4 offset. I used the Gorilla small diameter black chrome lugs. Can't speak to the 215/60 R15 tires, I run 205/60 R15 tires which are almost identical tire height as stock so my speedo is pretty accurate and no tire scrub at all.
  6. I bought seats from a 77 280Z ($150 USD) for my series 1 so I could have the full forward and recline tilt. Got new foam from MSA ($150 USD) and leather covers for the seats, EBrake and shifter boot ($400 USD) from Interior Innovations so they all match with the red stitching. A friend helped with the seat upholstery and I did the mod for my series 1 seat rails to go on the seats. Here's my seat thread; Not sure what it would cost for this in Canada, but if you're going to use your original seat frames I would guess it would be no where near your quoted $2,400 for 2 seats.
  7. Since my car is carbed, not FI I don't know for sure. Seems like you should be able to disconnect the fuel line just before the injectors and just turn the key to start, I think this will run the pump. And oh, you want the line going into something to catch the fuel.
  8. I was thinking that water is heavier than gas so it would settle to the bottom of the tank. The fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump would be fine. When it started and ran fine cold it was burning the good fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump. If there was water that had settled to the bottom of the tank it would be next in line after the fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump was spent... Not sure if water would cause the filter element to swell and restrict fuel flow. Water is great for cooling, but not your friend in the fuel system.
  9. After I sealed my tank and replaced all the rubber fuel lines I've run only ethanol free gas, the ethanol (alcohol) will attract water and it may be worse in high humidity areas.
  10. What about the fuel tank and lines? Did you drain the tank and check for rust in the tank? My car sat for 14 years, I dropped the tank, cleaned and sealed it, replaced all the lines and did a new fuel filter.
  11. Welcome! Looks like it will do better than 20 feet to me.
  12. Watching TV last night and caught this Boost Cellular ad with what appears to be a 73 240Z In Boost Mobile Orange 918.
  13. My guess is the ribs came along at the same time the tools moved from behind the seats to the smuggler bins on the rear deck. The seat recliner handles on the outside of the seats may have come at this same time.
  14. My 12/70 car has the small triangle inside the larger triangle switch (switch on the right in zKars first picture).
  15. Oh, you were back there with me watching dirt be invented! 😉