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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on April 16

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  1. Haha!! I had to look up the Coffman reference, but it reminded me that it's fiddler crab season!
  2. If the battery is tip-top charged, it should be able to run the EFI and ignition for quite some time even without an alternator.
  3. What he said. You might not have to replace ANY injectors. Have you verified that the issue is inside the injector itself and not something else?
  4. You... Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Us... You know we can still see you, right?
  5. The scammers will just put the scams into a different category instead. One that's still free. The thing that drives me nuts is the four pages of keywords to force ads to get picked up in searches when they shouldn't. People put "Ignore" and then a whole bunch of keywords. Sure... I can ignore them, but my search engine cannot. Effers.
  6. Haha! Well a quick look on the web found the following: Normal Engine Operation At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 17" and 21" HG. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause vacuum to drop below 5" then rebound to 21" or more. http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html So I'm not sure. If a normal engine is supposed to be 18 in-Hg, and calculations indicate you're getting 4 in-Hg instead of 18? A massive intake manifold leak could maybe account for that, but it would be running way lean, not way rich. I'm hoping someone can chime in and show me that I screwed the calculations somehow.
  7. OK... So the more important question. Does it make sense?
  8. I had the video game. For the original Game Boy.
  9. Well those numbers look a lot better than the measurements you were getting with the previous gauge. I'm less concerned with the absolute numbers than the fact that it seems to be reacting to manifold vacuum now. Just changing the gauge shouldn't have had any effect on that, but whatever.... Now it just looks like most other old 280Z's that are running either really rich or really lean because of a whole bunch of interrelated issues like dirty connectors, improperly placed connectors, and vacuum leaks. Back calculations from the pressure differential to calculate what the manifold vacuum is in psi... Do the numbers make sense? With the filler cap on and the engine struggling at 400-500 RPM... Decrease of 2 psi converts to 4 inches of mercury. With the cap off and the mixture more conducive to a smoother and higher idle... Decrease of 4 psi converts to about 8 inches of mercury. Did I do that right, and does it make sense?
  10. Anything look wrong? I think so. I don't like the looks of the clear silicone blob on the big gear at the 2:00 position. I suspect that blob was originally at the 11:00 position over by the locking screw (hidden by the big silver metal counterweight). If my suspicion is correct, then it looks like someone rotated that gear way leaner (looks like close to 20 teeth) than factory. An indication that they were fighting a severe rich condition and decided (incorrectly) that adjusting the AFM was the way to fix it. That black silicone that was holding the lid on is another indication that someone has been in there poking around. Of course, none of that explains why your fuel pressure is wrong, but it's something that you'll have to look into as well.
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