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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on December 9 2021

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  1. Yeah, since most of us here (including the OP) aren't running Wilwood stuff, then that datasheet is pretty much moot About the only thing that Wilwood data sheet did for me was confirm that "residual pressure valves" are really a thing, and (for me) raised the question of "Is Wilwood the only people who do this, or does everybody do it?" And after some digging "on the internet", the answer appears to be "everybody does it and have been doing it for decades." So my bottom line takeaways from all this are pretty much identical to yours... Some sort of residual pressure valve is a good idea if you are running drum brakes with return springs*. And if you are running disk brakes and have your master cylinder mounted lower than the calipers, you should also use one, but it should be a lower pressure rating. There could easily (probably?) be a difference between F and R outlets on the stock master cylinders and there could be issues if you don't account for that in some way. I think we're all on the same page! * I can get into my take about the "why" if anyone is interested, but not sure anyone wants to hear it at this point.
  2. Haha! Yes, of course I did. And I found it completely lacking any explanatory detail whatsoever. In that data sheet there was one statement of fact with absolutely no explanation as to the WHY the situation exists. It said "This master cylinder contains internal residual pressure valves for drum brake use only which should be removed and not used in disc brake applications." Well that's great, but so what? So Wilwood puts a valve into their aftermarket master cylinder. Got it. But I want way more than that so I dug around to figure out the theory as to the WHY and I found (what I consider the best, most well explained and credible) info at that link I pasted above. I'm just trying to provide some clarity as to the WHY they are in there because I believe understanding the issue might be the first step in coming up with alternatives. So with that in mind... How about swapping the check valves between F and R instead of the hard lines? Wouldn't that fix any potential issues for the people who want a different solution other than bending the hard lines?
  3. Haha!! Well glad that things got worked out at least enough that work can resume!
  4. I took a quick look on the web and came up with this. Seemed to be the best detail of the situation(s): https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-brakes-residual-pressure-valves.74978/ After reading through that, I'm not buying the "return springs" part of the theory, and I'm all in that the residual pressure is required only to prevent sucking air into the system at the wheel cylinders. But of course, I'm just a guy who read it on the internet. I've got a master cylinder here that I've taken completely apart, including the outlet valves. If I can find it, I'll see if I can determine any differences between the valves from F vs R. Of course, when I took them out, I didn't bother to mark which is which, so...
  5. Here's another link that talks some about the internals of the master cylinder and the possibility of switching the front and rear lines. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66168-brake-master-cylinder-identification/
  6. Correct. With the original system the only location exit for air-conditioned air is the dash vents. There is no way to get air-conditioned air to blow directly onto the windshield for defrost. Other complications include... The system (being so much smarter than you are) automatically blocks all water flow to the heater core when you switch it to defrost. So it's not like you could even blow hot air out the defrost vent at the same time you're blowing dehumidified cold air out the dash.
  7. I did some digging on-line to try to find good theory description info about that little capillary tube and didn't come up with anything great. I'm probably just not using the right search words, but I couldn't find anything I'm comfortable linking to here. I found stuff, but nothing good enough to link to. My read on the design is the capillary tube is filled with "something" (either a liquid or a gas)* and it's job is to provide some regulation of the temperature of the air coming off the heater core. As the temperature of that coiled tube heats up, the fluid inside expands and will push the little piston out at the far end and that will (depending on the position of the temperature control slider) close down the valve some amount. Been a while since I looked at it in detail, but memory says that sensor/piston device can only CLOSE the valve. It cannot open it. Memory also says that sensor/piston has a limited range of effect on how much it is able to close the valve. I think if the slider is moved to full hot, that sensor has no effect. And since the sensor/piston can only close the valve and cannot close it, it has no effect when the lever is on full cold. It only provides some temperature control between the two extremes. * I found sources that say "freon", "ether", "alcohol".
  8. Same thing happened to Spinal Tarp. Suuuuuuuuure they were.
  9. OK... You got my attention. Nice pics! So your car is a 75 or 76, right? Someone who really knows what they're looking at would probably be able to nail the year just from the pics you posted, but that's not me. Couple thoughts on your original question... First, the EFI system is wired pretty much independent from the rest of the car. There is one sub-harness that does nothing but EFI and the rest of the car will pretty much function normal whether that harness is installed or not. So I'm thinking the work has been done for you already. Just put the stock stuff back with the exception of the EFI sub-harness. Second thought is if you're looking to strip stuff off the car (I see you've removed the mounts for the CARB can and the A/C controls) and you want to get that stuff out of the wiring harnesses also, maybe you could just open up the originals and take out what you don't want and then re-wrap?
  10. Couple pieces of input. The metal end-cap on the heater core where the inlet and outlet tubes are attached should just pull off. If you're going to send the core out, don't send that end cap. It's just one more piece to get misplaced along the way. And as for the tube coming out of the valve... Yes, that's an automatic temperature compensation feature that is supposed to regulate the temperature of the heater core. There's supposed to be compressed gas inside that capillary tube (freon maybe? Nitrogen maybe?) that expands and contracts with the temperature and opens/closes the valve accordingly. But, that said... None of that probably works anymore. The gas has probably leaked out, and the valve has probably either frozen up solid inside, or the seal inside has turned to dust and dissolved into the coolant over the years. In any event, I would be very surprised if that valve is any good at all.
  11. Hahaha!!!!! You remember the South Park episode "Go Fund Yourself"? "The Washington Redskins was a Kickstarter start-up company founded by the boys in the Season Eighteen episode, "Go Fund Yourself". The company specialized in doing absolutely nothing for its financial backers, and was created by the boys solely to make money in return for doing absolutely nothing." Except with air conditioning. My favorite part was when "Kyle and Stan leave the company and form Furry Balls Plopped Menacingly on the Table, Inc."
  12. Doing movie reviews? "Interested.... Interested.... Very interested.... VERY interested. Then suddenly lost interest."
  13. 3000 to one, huh? Bring it on!! Haha!! Happy New Year everyone!!
  14. Two thoughts... FIrst, they used the same control arms on both sides of the car, so you don't have to look for a "right rear" arm... Any rear arm from either side will work. The later years will work as well, but there are some small (I believe non-functional differences). So unless you're looking for concourse correct for your year, then I believe any year will work*. Second, I've got the original arms off my 77. The PO did some damage to them when he pounded the old bushings out. Not nearly as bad as what happened to yours, but they're not pristine. They annoyed me enough that I replaced them when I redid all my suspension stuff. But if you get stuck, they're yours for the cost of shipping. *The really early cars might be different as well, but I have no experience there. And with the cost of anything really early shooting up, it's unlikely you'll turn one of those up anyway.
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