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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on October 8

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  1. And as Captain Obvious, I'm compelled to point out that resistance readings like what you're taking are dependent on switch positions. By that, I mean... If something like your headlight switch is on, you'll read low resistance from the +12 volt side of the harness to ground, and it's perfectly normal. Same thing goes for the ignition switch. And the inspection lamp, etc. In other words... when you're taking resistance readings between hot and ground, you need to be double dog sure that all the accessories are off and the key is in the OFF position.
  2. Everyone remember just how hot it was out there on the tarmac for the people's choice in Memphis? I went out for lunch with Blue @240260280 and Ms. Blue. We were trying to decide where to go and the answer was "Any place that has air conditioning. Oh... And eat slow!"
  3. Not a very detailed list of which fusible link does what, but this should at least get you started:
  4. And I would recommend that (since this whole thing started with an alternator replacement) you do your first fuse test with the alternator disconnected. Maybe the voltage regulator unplugged as well? If the low amperage fuse (or meter) survives that first step, then plug the voltage regulator in and try it again. And keep working in steps like that?
  5. Steve has this well in hand, but let me just add a couple thoughts... In theory, that's exactly what the fusible link is supposed to do. It's supposed to cook and burn out before the wiring inside the harness cooks and burns out. The copper wire inside the fusible link is smaller than the wiring in the harness and it's intended to fry open before the wires inside the harnesses do. Point is... In theory, if the system was designed properly and fusible link did what it was supposed to do, then, in theory, rest of the wiring "should" be ok. In theory. Second thing is you said "w
  6. Haha!! No, not at all. Apparently it was popular with most of the British sports cars up through the sixties? I was thinking that maybe you had one of those in the family that your dad worked on a lot.
  7. https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/positive-ground-cars.html So there.
  8. On final approach now!! Whatever you do... Don't connect the battery until you're sure you've got everything else correct! including the fuel injection power leads. They're both red, so that's an easy way to get screwed up. Ohm them out to the ECU connector if there's any doubt.
  9. Perfect. That means we're doing it right. So to your final question about vacuum bleeding vs. pressure bleeding... Again, I'm no expert on the topic, but I would suggest pressure bleeding over vacuum bleeding for a couple reasons. First, I believe you can generate a whooooole lot higher pressure differential with the master cylinder. I didn't research it, but I would expect that when you push the pedal hard, you can generate hundred(s?) of PSI in the lines. But if you're drawing a vacuum, the max vacuum you can achieve is less than one atmosphere (less than 15 psi). So for pre
  10. Well I never spend huge amounts of time working on something, that in the end, is really unnecessary. Ever.
  11. Haha!!! I'll get right on that! Or not.
  12. I don't think it would be much different. That's what I meant about the fluid flowing fast coming out of the master cylinder. The reason it would flow so quickly through the lines is because of the small volume that actually exists inside the brake lines. Grannyknot's put it well above, but let's put some numbers on it... If the ID of the lines is .118 inches (3mm), then the cross sectional area of said tube is .011 square inches. That means in a ten foot run of brake line, there is only about 1.3 cubic inches of brake fluid. I'm thinking that even if there is a bubble in the middl
  13. Haha! What about the "None of us need more work to do." part?
  14. Good pic. As for the fluid dynamics... I had one class in fluid flow and thermodynamics*. I consider it the worst class I took in my entire educational career, and I got zero out of it. At the time I had absolutely no interest and (as an EE) could see absolutely no practical value to me. So it bounced off my brain and I managed to scrape through with a "C" using short term memory and a stiff grading curve (because pretty much everyone tanked the tests). But now... Now that I've got a whole bunch of automotive related applications, I bet I would get a whole lot more out of it.
  15. Richard McDonel, I believe your asking "Why wouldn't air bubbles get trapped inside the hard line or rubber lines since they are higher than the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder?" I'm no fluid flow expert, but I'm thinking the fluid coming out of the master cylinder flows so fast that it pushes virtually a full slug of brake fluid liquid along inside the small diameter lines. The slug of fluid doesn't really want to separate and it just pushes all the air out ahead of "the wave", and even when you lift the pedal to get ready for another push, even if a bubble were to flow out of
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