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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on July 17

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  1. Oh, and forgot to mention... Since you're trying to create a complete path that clears out the entire engine interior, that's why the two vent connections are so far apart. If they were both on the valve cover, you would set up a little circle there. And if they were both on the block, you wouldn't clean out the head area. They put one on the head and one on the block so it pulls through the entire block. On "V" style (and opposed) engines, you can put one vent on each valve cover because they are each joined to each other through the block cavity. But on the inline engines, you need one
  2. The top and bottom are not sealed at all. There are huge holes between top and bottom at both the front (where the timing chain lives), and the rear where the valve train oil drains back down into the oil pan. Top and bottom are in no way sealed from eachother. The point of the two vents is that you are supposed to have positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) under all operating conditions. With just one vent hole (located at either top or bottom) you could vent off the blow-by, but you would not be able to completely remove the vapors from the block. By having two vents, you can set up a ci
  3. Gotcha. So he's assuming you (the purchaser) will do something appropriate with that crankcase vent and NOT leave the vapors in the block. @duffymahoney
  4. Newer cars have MAP sensors, AFM's, TPS sensors, and O2 sensor feedback. Using all of those tools allows them pull out of one block vent through the PCV right into the intake manifold while venting the second block vent back to the air cleaner in front of the AFM. Problem is that on our early (much more crude) EFI cars, we had only one of those input sources (the AFM)*, and we have no feedback system (O2). The whole system operates on "assumption". Assumption that everything is working as designed because the ECU module has no way to know or tell if it isn't. So if you pull from one
  5. When you say he provides engines without them (the block breather tube) in place... Are you saying that his engines (as delivered) just have the breather hole hanging open with no tube installed, or are you saying that he actually blocks off the hole with a plug of some sort?
  6. I don't know what year they started putting that support bracket in, but I can tell you it was present on my 3/74 small bumper 260.
  7. I've run into the same thing and I was planning to use the green loctite sleeve retainer. Haven't tried it yet, but I have high hopes for that. And I agree that it's weird that the original pipe was in there so firmly, but pretty much shows no retention at all when pushed back in once it was pulled out. As for the PCV and catch can thing... With the EFI, things get a little more complicated. You need to either vent everything upstream of the AFM, or vent everything downstream of the AFM. But don't mix the two. Or vent everything completely separate from the EFI system. In theory, PCV
  8. My thoughts (for what they're worth): There are those that say machining the sintered oil impregnated stuff can be problematic. Unless you do it right, you can "smear" some of the material and close off the oil holes. That said, if you're only machining the OD, then that shouldn't matter. Also, SAE 841 is softer than the traditional "bearing bronze (932 or 660 leaded)". It's probably going to be softer than the original bushing, but for the steering rack application, it's probably good enough. As for the second choice from McMaster, I like that it's made from 932, and I like the oil
  9. I haven't personally vetted the details in the below, but here's a thread in which some people actually mounted pressure sensors before and after oil filters and measured the differential pressure across filters. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/oil-filter-pressure-differential-testing-psid.341925/ I didn't study it thoroughly, but a quick skim seems to support the theory that the delta-P over the filter media on any clean filter is very low and not enough to open the bypass valve. And that delta-P is pretty much unaffected by oil temp and only goes up as the filter becomes
  10. I should have expected that. Unfortunately I couldn't find any details about the internals of the Nissan stock filter. Not surprising, but unfortunate. So I don't know if Nissan included a bypass valve inside their filters or not. The advantage of putting a bypass in the filter is you can use it in applications whether there is a bypass built into the block or not. The disadvantage of putting a bypass in the filter is it takes up space which could otherwise be used by filter media. In other words, you can have more filter in the filter if you don't have to put a bypass valve inside.
  11. Don't make me come down there to make sure that happens.
  12. What filter are you running? I'll see if I can dig up details on the internals. And by the way... In theory, the filter bypass only ever comes into play if you let the filter get so dirty that it clogs up the filter media. I know you're going to be changing your oil on your nice new motor way frequently enough that's not going to be an issue.
  13. Bummer. It's back? Or it never left completely?
  14. Pretty much all of the new filters these days include a bypass valve built into them. You might not need that bypass in the block at all?
  15. If both the pickups are moved by the vacuum advance plate, then it really doesn't matter which one he uses. Just set the timing with a light and everything else should come out in the wash, right? The two pickups never change with respect to eachother. They're a fixed delta under all conditions.
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