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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on November 25

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  1. Another option would be to attach the tach to your car and use some other device as a "reference" to calibrate the one you messed with. If you have a timing light with an RPM display, or an oscilloscope, or even meter that will read frequency. You could use one of those to monitor the engine, hold the RPM steady at some level and then compare what you get on your tach to what you see on the reference. Adjust the pot until the two read the same. Not as elegant as calibrating it on the bench with a signal generator, but if you don't have a sig-gen, then you do what you have to do.
  2. Crap. I was worried about that. I found nothing on the internets for either of those numbers. It could be as simple as a resistor or capacitor array, but I suspect it's not. The reason I was worried about them is that I don't see any transistors on the board. And I'm sure there are some transistors at play somewhere in the circuit. They aren't driving the tach completely with just resistors and capacitors. Problem is if you can't see the transistors, then they're probably buried inside those packs. One could potentially infer the function by reverse engineering the rest of the circuit and try to figure out what is inside those packages. Glad it won't be me. LOL. In any event, it sounds like you're out of the woods and that effort is unnecessary.
  3. Thanks for the pics. I'll dig through them when I get a chance. But I'm in agreement with crayZlair. I'm thinking that's not a cap at all. What are the long slim rectangular things with a bunch of leads? Can you read the numbers on them? Dark maroon or brown things with seven leads or so?
  4. I've got very little direct experience with the whole fuel pump thing, but since I'm planning some evil carb mods with my new motor, I'm going to have to get involved with this as well. And with that in mind, I'll be watching your progress. So one thing to watch for is... Does the pump require some minimum amount of fuel to flow in order to keep the pump itself cool? If so, you must use a bypass style regulator and shunt excess fuel back to the tank. However, if the pump doesn't require cooling like that and is designed to be able to constantly push against a "mostly closed door", then you could get away with a dead-headed arrangement. I've heard with my own ears two of the aftermarket pumps and they were loud. I'll see if I can figure out what they were. My buddy put one in his car and the drone made him crazy. He replaced it with another brand and it still drones, but not as bad as the first one. Maybe @GGRIII come in and tell us what brands he used.
  5. That's a great call!! What a sight to behold when you got back from your quick ride on your 1952 Vincent Black Lightning. Good times... Good times.
  6. Wow that's pretty. Wow that's expensive.
  7. I can't tell what the component is from that distance, so I'm not a lot of help there. However, I CAN tell you that the schematic posted above is for the earlier 240 tach with the inductive pickup, and it is not applicable to the 280 version. So not a lot of help there. Can you take a closer up shot of the cracked component? Will your camera focus that close in? And can you take a pic of the circuit board bottom that it solders into? I might be able to figure out what it is by looking at the circuitry. Maybe. Might be able. Maybe.
  8. Thanks for the input @240260280. It seems that hydrochloric acid is clearly the most effective. Comes with all the safety downsides, but definitely the most effective. My plater said that everything was going to go through a quick hydrochloric dip before the plating solutions. My thought was to get as much off as I could beforehand and hopefully his quick hydrochloric dip would take care of the rest. I was thinking that his hydrochloric dip would take off any surface rust that developed while the parts sat in boxes waiting until I had everything prepped and ready to go.
  9. LOL. I was just thinking that if I really got into it, I could probably program something up to control the heating element for the sensor. But I got bigger fish to fry first. Plenty of other projects in the way before I would get to that point in my list. Haha! I've never messed with the ESP8266 stuff. I've got just enough experience with PICAxe and Arduino stuff to be dangerous. The ESP board is way more powerful than anything I've needed so far.
  10. Thanks for all the input guys. I was thinking I would put mine in the glovebox for now as well. I'm still hoping to get a couple weeks more driving out of my car before the season ends though. I don't want to go dropping the exhaust now. It won't be long before they salt the roads and I'll do some of this work then.
  11. And here's what I was talking about maybe not having enough meat with a 100mm OD. Here's a quick sketch I threw together... 100mm OD, 70mm ID and two sets of bolt holes. One on a 60mm square and the other on a 60x70mm rectangle. All with the centers concentric. It looks to me like you might have some troubles with some of the holes being to close to the edge: So I don't know if the bolt pattern for the 350Z throttle body is 60x70, but I just used what I could discern from your ruler pics earlier. It looks like trouble.
  12. Thanks Matthew. I think I understand what you did now. I've had my parking brake handle out a couple times in the past to make some modifications to it and I never dropped the driveshaft, but I did have the seats out. Anyway, I don't remember how bad my rubber seal was, but it was at least good enough that I put it back in. I also don't drive my car in the wet either, so it doesn't matter as much. Thanks again. and maybe I'll do something like that next time
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