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Diseazd

Supporting Member
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Diseazd last won the day on January 26

Diseazd had the most liked content!

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About Diseazd

  • Rank
    Supporting Member

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  • Map Location
    Richmond
  • Occupation
    Stockbroker

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    300zx
  • About my Cars
    I currently own all 4 years of the 240Z and a 1990 300ZX. The 70 is white, the 71 is Safari Gold, the 72 is Lemon Green, also have an orange 72 the 73 and 1990 are Silver. I recently added a 1996 white Acura NSX to the group.

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  1. ........and the 240Z collar that goes with that 240Z clutch. Order from Motorsport.....they know Z’s and can talk you through it. 240 clutch disc, pressure plate, collar and throw out bearing and you’ll have a successful install. Good Luck Guy
  2. Like I said.....very simple. Call Motorsport....tell em you want a 240Z pressure plate and a 240Z collar.....it’ll work with your 5 speed. The pressure plate on the left is a 240Z pressure plate. The throw out bearings are the same.
  3. Doesn’t matter whether 4 speed or 5 speed. You just need to match the clutch to the throw out collar. You can order a 240Z pressure plate and 240Z collar, or a 280Z pressure plate and 280Z collar. That simple.....don’t make it too complicated!
  4. Driveshaft lengths are the same for the Datsun (Nissan) 4 and 5 speed transmissions........at least for the common swaps through 280 ZX.
  5. I spoke with Eiji....he said the factory recommends installing those bolts even without a crank fire wheel. I don’t know why, but above my pay grade to argue. FYI
  6. I just didn’t put them in. I assume they were for a degree wheel which I don’t use. Is that correct, or should they be installed? Stroker motor has been run hard for a year without them installed.
  7. @AK260 Have you thought about notching out a spot in each blade to clear those bolts. You could dremel out a notch in each blade to clear those stickie outie bolts. That would keep you from installing a spacer so thick that it would hit the radiator. Just a thought. I didn’t install those bolts in my damper.
  8. In my opinion, there are 2 reasons to convert to a 5 speed. 1) low gear diff 2) you drive long distances on higher speed highways. I don’t do either, so all 5 of my Z’s are 4 speeds and I’m happy with that. Most of my runs are short spirited runs through low traffic areas.....4 gears are plenty......also as Jim mentions, it’s how the Z’s came from the factory. Another plus as they are a lot cheaper and a lot more available. IMHO
  9. Here is the fan I had to go with to clear the Super Damper....still barely cleared. Also, a picture of a set of fan spacers. I assume they are for the 280ZX’s to clear the three row dampers, but don’t have a clue if that’s correct. I guess you could easily make your own spacer out of a number of materials. Stickie outie is what I had too.....just glad it didn’t push the fan too close to the radiator....I didn’t want to go electric.Now that I look at it, I wonder if I could have symmetrically removed some of the inside corner of the fan blades to clear the stickie outie bolts?
  10. I had to find the bigger offset fan for my Super Damper.....I found one with factory spacers.....gave me the clearance I needed. Curious if that came from a 280ZX with 3 row? Anyone seen these spacers?
  11. Very cool story. Walt Maas was a hero of mine along with Morton and Sharp in the early 70’s. Those guys were responsible for more Datsun (Nissan sales) than anything else. I’m sure you’ve got some fun stories. Sorry about your folks....glad you experienced the beginnings personally! Guy
  12. Just curious how others lock flywheel when tightening crank bolt. I usually pull the starter and get a friend to lodge a screw driver in a flywheel tooth to lock the crank. I don’t like to put a screw driver through the cam sprocket or a wrench on the cam as it could put pressure on the timing chain. If on an engine stand, I have a flat metal straight edge I bolt to crank end (2 bolts) until it rests against engine stand to lock the crank. How do others do this? Just curious. Guy
  13. heyitsrama answered your question in the second post. First of all you didn’t post any pictures of your metal rivets, but if you have metal rivets, the solution as mentioned in that post is simple. Drill the center of the metal rivet out with a small bit and your metal rivets will be gone. Then replace with the Nissan plastic rivets still available from Nissan.
  14. Good job heyitsrama.....exactly!
  15. Good Luck on your move Jeff..........
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