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the_tool_man last won the day on March 18 2016

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About the_tool_man

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    Jack of All Trades - Master of None


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    : Spartanburg, SC

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  1. If you're talking about the screwed-on panel on the passenger (RH) side of the car, that is by design. It's an access panel for getting to the filler hose connection on the fuel tank. You really only need it when reinstalling. But you really do need it then!
  2. It physically fits. But I haven't finished with the fuel system rebuild and other stuff to get the car started. So I haven't driven the car with the damper installed as of now. Honestly, of all the things that could go wrong with my work, this is the one I'm concerned about the least. This is a simple part that is physically identical to the original one. Unless I happened to get a defective one, I'm pretty certain it will work.
  3. It is a huge amount of work. But it is already paying off. You'll end up with a beautiful car that makes you happy. That's all that matters. And don't worry about over-posting. These updates are very informative to those of us who aspire to your skill level.
  4. To clean the tank without blasting, I built a tank rotisserie, and used that to spin the tank while cleaning it out. I used muriatic acid, diluted 50/50 with warm water, twice, followed by a neutralizing wash with baking soda and water, followed by numerous rinses with water until it ran out clean. There are a number of other threads describing the process. For media, I counted out 150 machine nuts (it's what I had on hand), and dumped them in the tank before cleaning. Afterward, I shook the tank around and made sure that 150 nuts came out. ?
  5. You didn't ask...but I have mixed feelings, honestly. I like the idea of adding an image to the underside of the hood. But that particular image, used for the Japanese War flag (Jyūrokujō-Kyokujitsu-ki), would seem to be a bit controversial, given its history in WWII and other conflicts prior. Personally, I'm not bothered by it. But I know some people who probably would be. And I wouldn't want to offend them, not out of fear, but out of respect. As an analogy, I'm from the southeastern US, where the old "Stars and Bars" confederate flag is still flown in some places. But knowing how
  6. I've had the fuel tank out for de-rusting and cleaning for some time now. I finally got my son-in-law to come over and help me reinstall if. I could get it mounted by myself. Or, I could get the fill hose on the tank nipple by myself. But I couldn't do both simultaneously without help. Sorry, no pics. Still need to finish chassis-side fuel hoses (with see-through filter), hook up the new fuel pump and replace the ignition switch. Then it's ready to fire up again, and will hopefully run right.
  7. I'm curious to see if this discussion gets anywhere with tangible results. I hope it does. This kind of request comes up on other forums with much larger viewership (Mustangs, for example). But few people dyno test multiple exhaust systems on the same car. And it's pretty common for there to be other, competing priorities, such as cost, fitment and sound. So it's usually "I bought XYZ and I like it" from about a dozen people. Still, I'm looking forward to the results for when I upgrade mine.
  8. I have a later copy that lists more 280Z stuff. Haynes is usually one of the better non-OEM books. But on important specs, I always check against the FSM.
  9. You can do far, far better than that. I bought a complete, rust-free (ish), almost running '77 for $8500 a couple of years ago. I've attached an "as picked up" photo, and one of the spare tire well. Bone dry, non-rusted and complete. I swapped in a working AFM, new fuel injectors and fixed a couple of vacuum leaks, and it was running. The car you're looking at probably needs a lot of work to arrest the rust, based on what's visible.
  10. As info...my bumpers arrived from Futofab yesterday afternoon. The boxes are printed with big letters that say "MADE IN TAIWAN". So apparently Futofab bumpers are no longer sourced from Vietnam. Or, maybe they get them from multiple sources. Waiting on brackets from Eurodat to test fitment.
  11. Ford has been using flat plane cranks in the 5.2L Mustang GT350 since 2015: https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15354688/holy-flat-plane-crankshaft-we-finally-get-an-in-depth-look-at-the-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350gt350rs-5-2-liter-v-8/ A unique sound, for sure. I doubt the DOHC engine would fit in a Z, however.
  12. I use Super Clean (formerly Castrol Super Clean), which I believe is similar to Purple Power, but with sodium metasilicate and sodium hydroxide. I get it by the gallon at Walmart on a regular basis. I do know from experience it is quite alkaline, and will eat your skin at full concentration. I've used it to clean aluminum without ill effect, even when soaked for a day or more. But it usually doesn't take that long to be effective, especially if it's warm. If I'm remembering my college chemistry correctly, the key is to fully immerse the part. If you dip it and leave it exposed to atmosph
  13. I went through the same thing with my sending unit. I soaked it in EvapoRust for a couple of days, and it looked and worked like new. Before, pretty crusty: After, working just fine: In the left of the after photos, you can see the homemade soaking "tank" I made. Just scraps of plywood nailed together with a trash bag liner.
  14. As I will upgrade my Z to a 5-speed one day, and likely won't be able to afford a rebuilt unit, I'm glad this thread exists. I've rebuilt a toploader before. So far, this doesn't look significantly more difficult, provided one can find parts.
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