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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.
I am having problems with fuel pump pressure on my 240z. Can someone point out which is the best electric fuel pump for this stock carburetors? I was using a Carter P60504 and it only puts out 3 PSI. What will be the mÃ¡ximum PSI that both of these carbs will tolerate without overflooding the float valves. How much per carburetor?
I have a mid '73 240Z with an electric fuel pump in it, and it's not running. The pump is tested known good out of the car, there's just no power to it from the harness. The passenger footwell relay panel does not have any of the add-on relays for the electric pump nor are there any relays on the firewall by the heater fan like another diagram showed. I found the green wire that runs to the fuel pump on the large blue connector that connects the dash harness to the body harness, and the pump will run if I jump power to it off the battery directly, so the body harness and ground are fine. Wiring diagrams tell me that the green wire splices into the black/white ignition wire somewhere between the key switch and the fusebox, but I can't find anything there, and I'm not about to rip the dash out and start un-taping harnesses to trace wires to find the splice from the green wire to the black/white wire. I can post pictures if it helps.
I have a 1978 280Z that I have been restoring and I have finished with the engine,etc. under the hood. I wanted to get it up and running to begin the task of adjusting, fine tuning and such. When I turn the key to ON - not Start (although the pump should also run in Start) I am not getting ANY fuel pump buzz. I have had a 78 model for around twenty years and I know the fuel pump should be running initially in the 'ON' position. I have installed a new Fuel Pump and Oil Sender. I have also checked all of the relays and fuses. If I unplug the Oil Sender OR the Alternator, then the fuel pump jumps to life and operates as it should. So, what I need to know is what else could be goofed up that would keep the Fuel Pump from running. Any help would be much appreciated.