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Found 40 results

  1. This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.
  2. I have 1976 280Z w/ Rebello 3L L28 with Jenvey ITB's. Makes 325 hp. Took car to to first track day since engine install Monday. When tank gets to about 1/2 full, fuel sloshes away from fuel pick up in bottom tank causing engine to stumble. I'm using stock tank with original pickup and returns going to Airtex high flow fuel pump mounted on modified stock fuel pump bracket and stock fuel lines to fuel filter. Has anyone else had similar problem or solution? This is primarily a street driven car with occasional track days and autocross events. I really don't want to chop up and install fuel cell.
  3. My tank leaks. Not sure if i will be able to get it fixed or if i have to have one built. History: current tank is aluminum rectangle type custom with no sending unit. whether i fix or build i want sending unit. but from what i have heard the 1970 240z sending is 90-10 ohms. Problems: 1-Tank does not have sender so hence no sender retainer to attach the retaining ring for use with the original sender. 2-cant find a retainer to weld to the tank so that the original sender can be used. 3-Might not have enough room for fuel sender arm and may have to use vertical; tube or uncovered. 4-all aftermarket ones are 0-90 or 70-10 or some other ohms but none are 90-10 and readily available Questions: 1-Does the gauge for the 240z fuel level need a 90-10? 2-Can i use a 0-90 and what would that do since it is reversed the ranges are different? If anyone has answers I sure would appreciate including possible alternatives or where to obtain a 90-10. I need to find out asap to either repair or order custom tank. THanks.....
  4. I have a 1981 280zx and I think I have the sending unit plumbed correctly. But I don't think I'm getting fuel still. The right most line is the vent line. The middle is the send line and the left most is the return right??
  5. I have recently taken ownership of a 1978 280z, original motor and everything. But, I am having a power issue with the fuel pump wiring. At the relay, I am getting 12V into the relay (the green/blue wire), but only about 3.4 volts out through the other green blue wire. My question is, is this a simple grounding issue, if so, where it the ground for the fuel pump exactly? I have looked at the wiring diagram still my eyes crossed and I have determined that the fuel pump is grounded inside of the ICM with a few other electrical items. So would my best option be to just cut the grounding off before it splits and just screw it onto the chassis for a ground? Would love your guy's help with this. Also, I jumped the fuel pump just to determine if it would work with 12V and it does so at least that works.
  6. Hi, 11/70 Z converting from a mechanical to a electric fuel pump for my stroker with triple carbs. I have a couple questions on the wiring that I was looking to get some help with. I've consulted various different builds, threads and diagrams and am planning on wiring in a Holley Red Electric fuel pump. I have grounded the wire and the positive side will be going to a relay (which I have figured out already). My questions are firstly: Should I want the fuel pump to turn on when the key is in the ON position or the START position (Will it still be on if in the start position)? My second question is: Of the Wires going to the ignition switch, which one of these would be the correct one for the ON or START position respectively. I have looked at a handful of wiring diagrams and none of them specify which wire is which. Thank you! Chris
  7. I recently pulled the fuel tank out of my 1975 280Z to have it cleaned and so I could work on reducing the smell of gas in the cabin. I'd love to replace the 17mm (5/8") vent hose that connects from the tank to the vapor reservoir and the 17mm hose that connects the filler to the vapor reservoir, but I can't seem to find these parts. I question whether or not the existing hoses are presenting much of a barrier to gas vapors. Anyway, I was thinking about replacing them with 5/8" fuel hose; however, the hose wants to kink when bent in a fashion similar to the old hoses. Is there still a source for replacement hoses, or a good solution to using the hoses that are readily available from the auto parts stores? I have another fuel system parts question. Has anyone seen a source for obtaining a new grommet in the plate that screws into the body? Once again, this is for a 1975 Z. Thanks!
  8. I recently restored the fuel tank because rust was blocking the fuel line, resulting in the obvious problem. But I am still occasionally experiencing a combustion problem. My engine has cut out on me twice while driving. I also had problems starting the car last night and this morning. The engine turned over as it should, but I wasn't getting combustion for a couple minutes. With a bit of persistence, the engined eventually roared to life with an excessive amount of grey smoke coming out of the tail pipe for 30-45 seconds. The car now starts and drives, but for how long? Any thoughts/advice regarding likely problems and solutions?
  9. What symptoms are you trying to remedy with the added resistor on fuel injection?
  10. Looking for a gas tank. My tank is leaking for the neck and at the seam. Any body no of where I can't get one fir a reasonable price? Any one know of other gas tanks that will work on a 72 240?
  11. Here is the issue. I have a 260z that has headers and many of the original pollution control items have been removed. The carbs have been rebuilt by Z therapy - I have tuned them according to the video. The car is not running rich to the best of my knowledge. There is no air pump, with headers there is no exhaust gas tube, therefore no exhaust gases through the balance tube, the control valve is not hooked up. No water through the balance tube. The carbon canister purge valve has a crack in the lid, but otherwise seems to be intact. The car runs fine but after a strong acceleration the car wreaks of gas. Sometimes in the past to the point of eye stinging. What do I need to do to fix this. I have attached some photos to show areas missing their potential pollution control attachments. Thanks Z dude67
  12. Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gaped .42 and added oil in each cylinder for lubrication) I cranked it with no luck, I heard the oil pump running loudly but decided to use starter fluid. Once started fluid was sprayed and the engine was cranked and the engine started and was running on starter fluid so my next steps were: clean injectors clean fuel rail replace o rings and insulation I cranked it again without starter fluid and it only cranked but didnt start. So I did a compression test and numbers were 140, 145, 145, 140,145, 155 so compression is pretty good being that 180psi is like new. I removed the fuel return line and cranked the engine and gasoline came rushing out, I tested the spark and its a blue with white tint, engine sounds like it wants to start so timing is good (?), exhaust smells like gasoline and has pulses, and it still doesnt want to start. Each time i remove the spark plugs after attempting to start it, i can see a little wetness on the tip and it smells like gas. It started once with starter fluid but now it just doesnt want to even with it. What do you guys think can be the problem? thank you!
  13. So, first post. Tried searching and couldnt find anything, even tried the all magical, Google, and still came up pretty empty handed. Ive been having an issue recently with my Z dieing while driving under normal conditions. However, I can put it in neutral, and about a 30-40 seconds worth of turning the key gets it fire back up. I have started with the easy and cheap stuff first. I replaced both the positive and negative battery cables and cleaned and checked the ground wire. Then I replaced the in line fuel filter that is before the electronic fuel pump, which was very needed. It was running the best it ever was, I let it sit in my driveway and run for half an hour to make sure all was good. Went out for a drive and about 10 mins in, it died again. My next guess is the fuel pump relay, maybe that is causing my issue? I checked the two relays under the passenger glove box and the bigger one looks to be in bad shape. I am no expert but this looks pretty burnt??Also, I noticed that the previous owner was messing with these because the black w. white stripe wires were spliced together??
  14. I have one (1) 'Intake Manifold Thermostat' in my parts bin (PN 14100-E8850). As you probably know, this valve is NLA from Nissan and appears to be NLA from all the Z specialty suppliers too. Its job is to control the flow of coolant through the intake manifold heating cavities (which also duct out to the carb bodies for 1972-73 models). I expect that it's arranged to work the opposite of the regular coolant thermostat: i.e. it operates open when cold, then closes off flow once the coolant heats up). According to the Parts Manual, they were fitted to the Z engines right up until July 1973. I want to fit my parts bin unit to my '70 (which arrived with the manifold thermostat missing), but only if it's working properly. I just tried a dunk test in boiling water and it wouldn't close, so I assume that it's jammed in the neutral/open position because of the usual chalky crud that can build up in a poorly-maintained cooling system (my unit hasn't been installed in an operating vehicle since 1980, so it hasn't been 'exercised' for a l-o-o-n-g time) Does anyone have any experience with fixing these little thermostatic valves? I can't find any mention of it in either the Z FSM or the L24 Engine FSM -- not even a note on a diagram to indicate that it even exists. Q1: I'm thinking of soaking it in CLR, on the assumption that it's mineral deposits from tap water that are causing the problem. Has anyone tried this? Q2: What's the correct temp. at which it should start to close? And how long should it take for it to cycle from fully open to fully closed? Q3: Do I have the operating logic correct? (i.e. normally open, then closed when hot). Is it designed to fully close, or just partially close? Q4: There's a tiny phillips-head screw with an equally tiny lock nut on the tip of the internal centre shaft. Has anyone tried to take one apart to assist in cleaning up the moving parts? Q5: Does anyone know of a source for these (either NOS or used)? Any guidance welcomed.
  15. I recently acquired a 71 240Z. The car was sitting for the better part of 4 years however it started on first turn. The gentleman who owned it before did what's necessary to keep it in running condition. Although the car was drivable it would occasionally hesitate or sputter in 3rd or 4th gear at cruise speeds. It was evident there was a sediment in the fuel filter. I decided to due a tune up for good measure and ordered major tune up kit from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4700). I changed the fuel filter first then started the car to ensure it started. Success. I then went to work on changing out the ignition parts. As I took the plug wires off one-by-one the old distributor cap I placed them onto the new distributor cap in same order. Remove and replaced the points set and condenser. Replaced new rotor in same order it was removed (it could only go on one way). Placed the new cap on and went to start the car. It cranks but does not start/run. As a troubleshooting step, I placed the old cap and rotor back on as well with same result. Nothing was done with the adj screw. Do I need to? I've since sourced the FSM (NICO) and did some soul searching on the forum(s). I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. The air filter was also changed. I do have plug wires on order and have compiled a list of next steps. Verify fuel, although it started after changing fuel filter. Verify spark from plugs. Waiting on new wires before pulling old plugs and verifying spark from old plugs. Set engine to TDC and confirm rotor is in #1 position. Try starting fluid Any suggestions are welcomed.
  16. Here's a link to an article in EngineBuilder.com that provides some great insights into the difference between the fuels that are sold today vs. those which were the standard back in the day when the original Z's were designed and used... http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/11/impact-of-todays-fuels-n-carbureted-engines/ Among other things, there are some interesting points raised about fuel volatility and ethanol drop-out and the implications these fuel characteristics have for long-term (or even shorter-term) storage of vehicles with vented fuel systems. The EngineBuilder.com site looks like a great resource for owners who like to pursue performance improvements for their stock engines.
  17. Hi, My car was in the garage and I ran it out of fuel starting it to keep the battery charged. This has happened before and is always such a pain in the a** as I usually have to take the whole fuel line apart back to the tank to get the fuel to the carbs. Its like the fuel pump will not pull the fuel once it runs dry (air pocket?) . It does not have the pump by the tank just the one on the engine. In the past I have sucked the fuel into the lines with an extra piece of fuel line and did this to draw it up to the engine. Anybody have an idea why the fuel pump wont draw the fuel from the tank - it now has fuel in it. And / or an easier way to get the fuel to the carbs. HELP!!!
  18. I made a very frustrating discovery this weekend. I've been working hard to get my 280z to the point where I could fire the engine. Saturday was the day. I managed to download my ignition parameters to my XDi2 pretty easily which was a treat since I was expecting it to be difficult. So I put power to the fuel pump and couldn't get any pressure. That was not an area I was expecting trouble. After a lot of cussing and some trial and error I found that the fuel pickup from the tank was plugged. Man did a light go off in my head! I had to do a LOT of work on that tank including patching it and lining it. Should've blown out the pickups before the liner dried... So my tanks probably ruined. Can anyone suggest a method for unplugging those lines? I haven't been able to find a small diameter snake and I doubt it could make the 90 degree pend in the pickup anyway. Now assuming the tank is a write off... I've never been real confident about this tank because I did have to weld on it and I'm not a very good welder. So a few months ago I chanced upon a '76 280z tank in fairly decent condition and knowing how hard they are to find I snatched it up. The tank is solid but has a lot of rust inside. No pitting, but It needs to be cleaned. That I can do, but I'm a little nervous about coating it for the obvious reason. If the tank cleans up nice and doesn't leak, does it need to be coated?
  19. Bought new fuel pump but not getting fuel to engine Blew out hard lines and cleaned and sealed tank
  20. So the car I have been restoring had a custom aluminum evap tank that was fabricated to replace the original one. I have not been able to cross reference as to whether or not the original is to be of a plastic kind or a metal kind. I am curious to know if the later model 71-73 or 72-73 (whichever it is), can work on the early 01-70's. I believe the hoses I have are actually the OE hoses and look to be in OK condition, but as far as I can tell- those are also discontinued, along with the clamps on either ends of the hoses too, right?
  21. My apologies if this is a duplicate, the system seems to have just swallowed my carefully crafted posting (telling me I wasn't logged in). Here goes again. I just bought a 1976 280Z as a project car. The body is in good shape but its been partially dismantled. The previous owner took it apart to move some performance parts to his new Z. So it came with the EFI intake/throttle off the car (along with a bag of misc stuff). Exhaust is missing (I have MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, and MSA premium exhause on order from the Z store). Bumpers are off. Interior taken apart. Drum brakes need work (in-progress - Front disks/calipers look great though). Previous owner upgraded distributor to ZX/electronic, replaced fusible links with fuse block, new dash cap/carpet. My first goal is to get it put back together and running to see what I have. Since the EFI intake/throttle is off the car I decided to replace the injectors (on order) and clamps (one side of the fuel rail had standard hose clamps rather than EFI clamps - looks like one of the injectors was replaced a while back). I have mostly stripped the manifold and would like to give it a good cleaning (along with the throttle which I have removed). What is the best way to clean them inside and out? Carb cleaner and elbow grease? Have it dipped? Something else? Putting it all back together will be an adventure. The previous owner did mark the wiring harness (I will clean all the contacts with deoxit) and I found the Datsun EFI Theory/Troubleshooting book on-line - I think most of my questions will be answered there. I will replace all of the vac hoses and any water/fuel host that doesn't look new (some look newly replaced). I have a new throttle gasket on hand. I will get all new injector hold-down bolts (not screws!) and tighten them appropriately when I reassemble. Any other suggestions while EFI intake is off the car? What would you do? Thanks, Dan PS, Here it is:
  22. The winter fuel formula in California is causing vapor lock. This only happens when the winter grade comes out in California. What would anyone recommend as an additive to decrease the volatility.
  23. I recently swapped some 240Z Carbs onto my 260Z, capped everything according to the other swap thread in this subforum (the only things that are unplugged are the PVC valve which im pretty sure has been unplugged since I got the car and the overflow hoses which arent connected to the air cleaner). I cranked the engine maybe 5 times before the car started and revved to 4000rpms and stayed there. I tried rearranging hoses and plugs and it did the same exact thing. the next day it wouldnt start and the engine would start going at very low rpms and would die at the same time the carbs spit gas out of the intake and would also have gas dripping from the fuel delivery line and the side of the float bowl. I havent been able to start it since then and have checked: The fuel return hose, still has the pressure cap on the end and gas moves through it. Checked the floats, the needle valve works, the needle is straight and the suction chamber moves freely The sparkplugs fire and I recently had the timing done. The gasket on my float bowl was shot, so I took it off (temporarily until I can get it running and the gaskets come in the mail) and it stopped the leaking on the front carb, but the rear carb continues to spill gas on the exhaust. There is only maybe an inch MAX of gas of the float bowl so I know its not flooding, but I dont know what else to check/replace. As a last ditch effort and because I dont know what to do, I capped the overflow lines, and the car started showing some semblance of its old self and started up as it usually would although a bit slowly, but there are a ton of warnings all over the forums saying NOT to do this. Are the float bowls pressurized? Any idea what else I can check/ replace to narrow this down?
  24. My '71 240Z is leaking gas from the filler, specifically the actual port. I can fill the tank just fine with no leak to the ground. However, after sitting for a few minutes at home (and I believe even probably while driving) fuel begins to seep between the tank cap collar and the filler neck, sending fuel down the side of the car. Today it was bad enough that a puddle formed. I believe that the cool gas from the pump is heating up and expanding as I drive home. The question is how can this be dealt with? I'm guessing a return line blockage? - The tank was boiled out and cleaned at a radiator shop a few months ago - Rotted hoses from fuel tank to evap tank were replaced - Carbs were cleaned and rebuilt with new valves - Fuel is not leaking from carb bowl overflows - Gas cap is new part from MSA - Fuel pump is warm/hot after car has been running, even with spacer installed The leak has gotten bad enough to bubble and lift pant on the rear quarter panel. Not a huge deal since the car needed new paint even if I decide to restore this one, but it indicates that this is a problem that needs to be fixed. Thanks all!
  25. I need some Datsun material science advice. Last years thread talks about fabricating insulators to replace the old rubber for the car's plumbing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29518&highlight=brake+line+rubber What is a good source of rubber for this task? Something like this... http://www.amazon.com/Superior-18-1701-Rubber-Spring-Booster/dp/B00029K20M/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3 or maybe this http://www.jewelrysupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20399
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