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About 280zdude

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Irvine, ca
  • Occupation
    Auto wholesale


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  1. Yes to oe configuration. One thing I’ve realized is even if you think you don’t need something on the car.. there’s a reason why they added it in the first place, that one off chance a car doesn’t start may be due to a simple delete of a random water heater line.. don’t see the harm in keeping it.. But if i don’t want it to leak so that’s is why I’ll be tapping it just to make sure I put it on and the car heats up and leaves water marks on a freshly cleaned intake. only time I would delete something is if I go full stand alone, smarter computer basically does what these mechanical parts do. I was debating on that but decided to just stick with og for a while make it run right see if I need more fixed before throwing money at stuff that doesn’t need to be replaced or upgraded right away.
  2. I actually wasn’t planning on it I went out and bought a tap and die set and was thinking to tap 1/4 and get a brass elbow at the homedepot or something..
  3. Where can I get one no one seems to know what it is msa motorsports said they don’t have it
  4. Yeah I ended up ordering new clips for almost everything in the engine bay.. they are really brital.. I’ll used those as well and it still broke
  5. Is there any ways to take off the electrical connectors without breaking them. I can’t seem to find a way to take the little metal clip inside off
  6. I’m probably not doing the full 3l stroker it sounds really cool to say but doesn’t make Sense for power to price ratio.. head work should suffice with relative power.. I guess the reason people do carbs is so they don’t need a computer.. I do but there are ways around that 😬
  7. Thanks I did that. I vacuumed out whatever I could from the top before doing it just to make sure I don’t push rust in than I need to.. I’ll probably use some coolant flush tomorrow. And let it sit in there for about a week or two.. cant really drive it for now.. im doing research on head work and flat top pistons.. I was thinking about going full stroker but the LD28 crank is just no where to be found but in fully built engines.. from rebello racing and shops of that nature. After the flush sits for however long I decide to leave it in maybe watch for a color change.. I’ll take the head off and assess the pistons and the walls.. plan to take the pistons out and honing the walls.. new flat top pistons and rings racing cams Idk anything about this.. but I’ll learn.. no one really talks about where to get these.. machined cams?? Idk and get the head shaved and ported for better flow.. I’ll probably leave the crank alone and just do a diy little polishing there.. Engine management - I read that you need a stand alone system in order or the stock efi does not like the top mods. I’m going to stay EFI unless. There is a really good reason not to. I really want to try to keep the car as stock as possible with decent present day power.. mega squirt/msa pro something like that was the standalone management system.. proper dialed in tune.. let me know if you guys have any suggestions on this stuff. I’m in Southern California so if you have a shop you would recommend or a professional I can get advice from I would appreciate it! with all this I’m guessing the car will run around 200+ hp.. I don’t believe it will be under whelming with the weight of the car. I’m hoping it will be around the same as my 2017 q60 in regards to butt dyno torque in a straight line..
  8. Yeah I’m just scared the water channels are clogged.. just took the radiator out and it’ only flows when tilted but still not well
  9. Took the radiator out cause it looked super dry on the inside and rusted found this.. what the hell do you do for this... It was blowing white smoke while the car was running for a little bit IMG_8870.MP4 IMG_8873.MP4
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