Captain_Zeros

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About Captain_Zeros

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    Barn Find Daily Driver

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    Kirkland, WA

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  1. While we're talking about battery posts, if you're not married to originality a GM sidepost battery pretty much eliminates your chances of welding your battery to your fender. Previous owner of my car put one in it and I stuck with it. Just gotta swap the battery cables.
  2. I've got a 3 row OEM radiator of unknown year in my car, no auto trans cooler on mine. Also I heartily suggest replacing the drain **** with a low profile plug of some kind, I munched the plastic draincock on my friend's steep driveway and puked coolant everywhere, as the extra low radiator is the first point of contact at the front of the car. I used a cut down bolt and rubber seal to get me home, and never bothered to replace it. Interestingly enough my drain plug is in a different location than yours, it is on the drivers side not centrally located.
  3. Same kit, same issue. I was able to compress the suspension enough to get them on through some creative jack use.
  4. I had the same issue. They're for the key in ignition buzzer and I just left them detached (the originals were also disconnected when I got it, guess a previous owner didn't like buzzers either). Only down side is if it's not hooked up your key buzzer will not work. (if you consider that a down side :stupid: )
  5. I've more good things than bad things about 280zx distributors with e12-80 modules. Still pretty readily available.
  6. I'm having flashbacks at all this talk of the thrust bearing....... when I went through my Z's suspension one of mine was straight up missing..... only one too. I'm surprised the steering wasn't very heavy without it, and nothing seemed to actually be worn because of it. Ain't life weird.
  7. What about having some speed-holes in the hood?
  8. Both of those things are controlled by the same set of switches. I'd check there FIRST.
  9. I used Sachs KF536-01 sourced from O'Reilly's when I did my clutch a year and a half ago which cost me about $95. It has been adequate so far in my relatively stock Z, but then again just about anything should be. Convenient enough it came with a new throwout bearing carrier too, not just the bare bearing. They still list that same part number in their catalog as a "PowerTorque®" brand clutch kit. No idea if it's related or not.
  10. Congrats! I'll just be over here resisting my urges to make fun of california
  11. Not the same model, but just for posterity's sake here is what my 1973 KM-1520ZC radio looks like, with the gray/black wire soldered straight to the case like your white/black
  12. Awesome Z! 260Z Carb Adjustment Manual.PDF 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf As a fellow '73 240Z owner, have a book on flattop carbs and a book on common dealer '73 fuel system changes that aren't well documented in the service manual! Sadly I can't help your originality, I pulled my flattop carbs because they sat for a decade and gummed up with fuel and swapped them for a set of early carbs that came in the trunk when I bought it.
  13. I personally use 3-in-1 branded straight 20w motor oil, comes in a convenient little squeeze bottle like the normal 3 in 1 and has a picture of an electric motor on it.
  14. Also don't forget and leave your rag in there when you go to turn the engine over :stupid: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/49961-how-simple-valve-adjust-can-ruin-your-whole-day.html