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About SeKcGamer

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  1. 5FF23A65-AAF1-4023-BA5D-316824E9D6A3.MOV
  2. AE80B0BB-509F-42CD-8788-ACFD154BEF8E.MOV AE80B0BB-509F-42CD-8788-ACFD154BEF8E.MOV AE80B0BB-509F-42CD-8788-ACFD154BEF8E.MOV AE80B0BB-509F-42CD-8788-ACFD154BEF8E.MOV AE80B0BB-509F-42CD-8788-ACFD154BEF8E.MOV
  3. Okay, let me help better understand this. The engine indeed doesn’t turn off when you try to turn it off. The charge light is only on when the car is off not when it’s running. And no the battery doesn’t die when sitting, the battery dies because the “charge light” won’t come off when the car is completely turned off. They are currently no things connected to the battery in order to drain it. And I left the white wire connected to one of the empty terminals on the ICM that it should of been on, but the ICM itself doesn’t have a wire on that terminal, so it’s basically screwed into an empty terminal. But the brown wire is just there not connected to anything, it’s loose because it doesn’t have a spot. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. Do I have to replace the entire Unit( Starter and switch) or just the switch? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Could it have something to do with the ICM?, since two of the wires in the new one dont actually connect to anything on the ICM. I believe it’s the brown and white wire. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. Well I’ve already changed the voltage regulator and I’ve already put a new alternator when I rebuilt it. On my middle pod in the center I have (volts/fuel) I believe and at the very top corner it says “CPU” and right next to it there’s a lil bulb that turns red when something’s wrong it looks like. When I try to turn the key to off the car stays on but if you move it to the left like a “cm” there’s a point in it where the car starts to slowly turns off. And if I don’t do that the car will remain on. Even in off position. You just have to hit the right spot, I’ve never had this happen so I don’t know if it is the ignition switch 🤷🏿‍♂️. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. So I put the new one in. The car ran perfect. But the car wouldn’t turn off and in order to turn it off you have too hit this small spot in the ignition and it will slowly die. Woke up this morning drove my car to work and at first the car turned off using my method, but the CPU light on my volt gauge was coming on and wouldn’t turn off. Now my battery is dead Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. Wdym by “pickup” , would it have a negative effect on the car?like what am I losing exactly?. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  9. Zed head before I buy, would this fit my car?. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. I changed the battery(warranty) and the problem still persists. The car will start normally and if you rev the car more than 3k the engine will Bog and the rpm guage will bounce around and eventually die. At that point it always smells like fuel. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Would it also effect the alternator ? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. 81F16BAB-9937-493C-8267-DD57E4637548.MP4
  13. I parked my z for about a month after rebuilding the engine and driving it to school for about two months. I daily a different car to go to work to save on gas, and when I went to start my car it was dead because I left the radar on. I jump started my car with the daily driven car. But as it charged up enough to start and run, I let it sit for about 15 min. I started to drive it and when the rpms were up and I would let off the gas, the car turns off. I don’t know what the problem would be. (Pictures of rebuild)
  14. This was the one that's dim.. .could this be shorting it out. do you think a socket from a 260z should work?. Sorry for the late response, I had work. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. The voltimeter read 3.56 at the switch Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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