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Put on your party hats and toot your horns. Join me in celebrating the 54th Anniversary of the day I bought my 1971 240Z. Today, it sits in my driveway proudly showing its age. Unfortunately, I'm also showing my age and have a little more trouble getting in and out of it and working the pedals than I did in 1971. Great car, great fun, 54 years of great road adventures!

I've been very lucky on many fronts in my life. My luck started with being born in this country and continued through being born into my family. However, for this screed I'll stick to the Z world. I started getting paid, $125.00/week, to be a mechanic at a dealer in 1970, talk about luck. I very quickly realized that paying close attention/noticing things were important aspects to becoming successful at my craft. When I opened my now closed shop in 1980 a trickle of unmodified original owner Z cars started to flow through, talk about luck. It didn't take me long to understand the importance of documenting as many details as possible. The results of my appreciation are a large stack of photos of the many fine details of 240/260/280 construction. I also have many sloppy pages of notes describing the fine points of construction and differences between model years. My goodness, I even have several pages of notes describing, in detail, the fasteners used to secure a 240 timing chain cover for production date X. Every time a serious customer approached me for a restoration I would ask, in detail, exactly what he/she wanted the finished product to look like. Before they had a chance to answer I would describe what an original Z looked like from the factory and I'd often show them a few pictures from my collection. The answer was always not just no but HELL NO! They wanted pretty. What does pretty mean? Modern, often 2 stage, paint that has been wet sanded and buffed to near perfection. Powder coated suspension and all the other bits and pieces of modern restoration required to satisfy a customer. To see 2 of my last 3 Z car restorations visit my site and click on Customer Profiles. When a 240 left the factory there was orange peel in the paint in random places. Have to mention that this particular problem improved markedly in about 1975 or so. However, there was often a serious problem with the clear coat discoloring when 2 stage paint was used starting about the same time. The paint on the bottom was applied very unevenly and often contained dirt in random places. Most of the grommets that were glued in place had glue running down from the grommet. The suspension pieces were painted a sloppy and uneven satin black. There was overspray on some of the exterior engine components that were in proximity to the engine block. The list goes on from there. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not criticizing Datsun, that was the way cars were often manufactured back in the Olden Days. I can all but guarantee that if a real factory-like restored Z showed up at a convention a trophy would not be forth coming. Now to address the hyperbole that has crept into the world of Z restoration. "Frame -off Restoration", "Rotisserie Restoration", "Factory Restoration", etc., etc., etc. There are some new ones now like "Magnificent" and so forth. The situation is often made worse with fancy photography and lighting. This is what happens when marketing geniuses get involved. Remember the Z Store Program? H@#$, now I'm often confused and don't understand what they're talking about. ALWAYS look at the car you're considering or send someone like me to have a look before making that offer. I understand that I've only lightly covered this subject but there you have it for better or worse.

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

Last weekend we worked in the shop some Here is a seam in the leather fender covers. I made this with contact adhesive and clamps. I picked the padding out in the seam area so it was just leather to leather. We took Lily down off the cubes. A lot less sketchy than the way I put her up there. Still had to have a 6x6 on the jack saddle at this point Rolled her outside and it promptly rained... My windshield leaks and I will add some sealant under the weatherstripping soon. I also ordered tool covers for behind the seats from Zcardepot. They don't have the hinges. So they may not work for me... Since I don't have the old covers

I'm a big fan of having a vacuum gauge on the balance tube (and plugging the emmissions holes). If the engine isn't healthy, it doesn't matter how the carbs are tuned. Compression, Timing, then Carbs. The vaccum gauge is a wonderful tool to see the health of the engine. I

My 3.12L is finally going in!

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

Mine were more crud from leaving old gas in them for too long. The tanks were good and solid after I pressure washed the outside of them. That muriatic acid made the inside like new but after sloshing around for 5 minutes I had to pour in about 3 gallons of mixed ahead of time baking soda and water to neutralize the acid then emptied that into an empty 5 and killed a lot of ant beds around my property. Then the acetone to remove the water, quick hit with the leaf blower and then the Red-Kote. Sloshed that around completely covering the tank and let that drain out into another 5 then direct sunlight for 30 minutes, then another round with the leaf blower. Then I put that bitch on a shelf and got drunk. It was very nerve wracking for this 'ol boy, but when all was said and done I was and still am proud of what I did. You see, I hate following directions.

But the price of obesity drugs are much cheaper.

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

I should have a lot more updates and pics here as I have finished my summer home projects. Also, I am hoping the body and paint will be finished in the next month or two, so we should see some good progress. I appreciate all of the input here. I am always open to advice and the knowledge of those that have seen and worked on these cars in the past. Personally, I will listen to the panel of experts and then move forward with what seems to be the best direction. Also, as most of you know, I own a pretty much un-restored early 240Z that I grew up with since I was 9 years old (in the family for 55 years) , so I have a nice reference vehicle. That being said, I find it interesting that there seems to be a tendency to hold the ZCON judging in high regard. Personally, I do not have a very high regard for ZCON judges. In reality, many of them have never owned an original Z car or examined one closely. As a result, they make a number of mistakes in their judging, none of which can be contested because you do not receive the judging sheets until several months after the show. One of these days I will start a thread here titled "ZCON Judging Errors" and see who weighs in, in addition to the items I would list. A few examples are the deductions on my early Z for the weld lines on my oil pan. (FYI 0042 has the same weld lines so they will probably mark this off too). Another good example is the Franklin mint car losing points for having the 'Silver zinc' coil holder instead of 'Yellow zinc' holder. I have heard of judges insisting the original brake lines were stainless steel, the rear diff cover was bare aluminum and fuel hoses were not the 'cloth wrap' style. I am sure that I am just hitting a very small portion of the errors as I am only familiar with the cars that I have been involved with and what I can remember off the top of my head. Anyway, just had to rant a bit about the judging issue. Don't even get me started on the non-Z show judging. Regarding the Exhaust manifold finish, that is an interesting discussion. For most of my restorations, I have always consulted Les Cannady at Classic Datsun Motorsports and never questioned his advice (He was just 10 miles down the road) . If I am not mistaken, I think only his shop and Pierre Z were the only shops approved to build the Restoration Z's. Because of that, I have always used the gray powdercoat that he recommended as the default finish. However, given the current discussion and comments, sounds like there are several other options out there that might be more true to form. After looking at a number of different options and comments regarding the color, I am happy with the graphite finish option. Two of the items that lead me in that direction are pics from the Nissan engine service manual and pics of my own motor disassembly that are pictured below. Both pics show a dark cast iron finish, not a light gray finish. So, I am sticking with the graphite and will probably go with that in the future as well. I installed the exhaust manifold and intake assembly to the engine. Pics below. (Also looking for a correct rear engine hoist bracket) I finished up the steering column, and replaced the connector on the turn signal assembly. The main shaft was sanded and re-painted and all the electronics cleaned up. I re-finished the steering wheel that now looks much better, but not sure I will stick with this. The wood finish should be more redish. Problem is that the wood veneer is very thin and I am not sure how much was removed in the restoration attempt from the previous owner. Previously, the nubs on the opposite side were sanded through unfortunately. I will let it be for now, but may revisit it. The center metal portion looks good though. I cleaned up the brake and cluth pedal box. Ready for install. I have no idea what is written on that silver can below.

'Make damn sure your sparks are right before you start messing around with the fuel'. Butch Bohunk, Master Mechanic, Finzio's Sincair Service

Hi guys, this week i sold my 240z! It needed a good service as the engine leaked some oil, the body needed some work and.. i don't have the energy to work on it i will now concentrate on the engineroom of the 280zx i had restored in the past years.. I kept my self made mahogany steeringwheel and gave the new owner the rear wheel arches that i had stored on my attic with the car and some other nice parts to make an nice driver car for every day. As you can see in this pic the car has glassfiber rear arches and they are not original. As i said, i will now with some help of a friend, going to work on my almost ready 280zx! He also helped to get the lighting ready in my carport as he is a electrician as i am also! I finished also the air to air heat pump in my garage, so we can work on the 280zx coming winter. It was a bit difficult to let the 240z go but i had it for 27 years, and drove it for 25 years! It was a blast!

In Brief: Paul Taylor is the person that bought HLS30 02545 from Bill Reagan, the person that restored HLS30 02545. Paul then took his Datsun 240Z to a Z Car Club Association (ZCCA) annual convention. There I believe it caught the attention of a company that produced/sold fairly high end Die Cast Models: The Franklin Mint. They talked Paul into allowing them to use his 240Z as the model - for their Die Cast model. Thus it became the Franklin Mint Model. At issue AIR they sold a limited edition for ??? $125.00… Paul’s Z was also invited to the Automobile Hall of Fame’s Ceremony of Mr. Kayatama being inducted to the US Automobile Hall of Fame. Because of #02545 documented history, full restoration and association with Mr. K and the Franklin Mint’s model - It has become a very desirable Collector item.

This is the Jet Hot cast finish. Please excuse the slightly green cast which is the result of either lighting or camera user error. I like the color but more importantly it's extremely robust. After more than 25 years the exhaust manifold on my 280 still looks like it was just done. Hope this helps. Not a job one wants to do twice. PS This is the exhaust manifold from the Z used as the model for the Franklin Mint Z car

I got back in the shop today. Rear bumper is on. I don't like the fit but it's on for now... License plate light and hatch badges and I think the rear end is done Also worked on installing the leather pieces over the wheel arches I trimmed one of the last pieces and hemmed it with glue

Happy Thanksgiving to the Z family!!! I am grateful for this group!

Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Have you seen this? Inside a stranger's house with my parents and I was unwinding their phone cords.😇

Also check the vent hose seals from the fuel tank where they come through the floor. The grommet at the license plate light where the wires pass through the rear pan. The seal around the filler neck and the grommet at the drain for the radio antennae

The aftermarket hardware kit at O'Reilly's has 8 of those retainer washers rather than 4 retainers and 4 cup washers. One on each side of the spring to keep it centered and in place - would work.

Happy Thanksgiving!!! Fire up those ovens... I'm smoking some turkey this year... ;)

Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

Good thread! I get to pick my DD based on need... 2000 Lexus LX470 (Landcruiser) But mostly drive this daily: 2014 BMW Z4 (E89) Manual

Years ago I sacrificed this Craftsman screwdriver to make a Z brake adjustment tool, it has worked very well.

Well, I gave up trying to find it and just yanked it off with a puller lol

The next thing to attack is the firewalls . I can’t finish the passenger upper frame because I need access to spot weld the firewall panel . The firewall is sandwiched between the inner fender wall and outer . I also have an issue with the passenger side firewall panel from KF . The drivers side worked out pretty sweet and I should be able to do a decent job welding it in . The biggest obstacle is that I wanted to preserve the vin# that’s stamped on the wall so I had to cut around it . The passenger side doesn’t line up right as you can see but the pics . They said they will send me a new one . I think the panel wasn’t square on their stamping machine . KF has been really good supporting their products . I’ll also add that their drivers firewall panel does not include the doubler for the inside

It's been a whole year since the surgery! Can hardly believe it, time flies when you're on the better end of healing. Thanks for all the prayers and well wishes, they worked. Next is a mid-foot fusion that I'm dreading but the docs said after a year with the knee replacement they could do it. I had planned a day of relaxing in the driver's seat of the 240 but it has rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock. Maybe tomorrow?

There was a post around that had someone replacing the guts of the old module with the new HEI but I cant find it. I might do that, but mount the box on the firewall or something. I like that it would appear more period correct. @EuroDat did that to his '77

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

I stole this cassette from my step-a s s hole when I was a kid. When cassettes where still off white colored, before the clear ones. I listened to it so much I still know every word to all the songs but this was my favorite.

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

That rubber glue may be the least of your problems! I've done a Z dash pad restoration, starting with something that had only 25% of the deterioration that yours has. Even at that, it was a time-consuming job. Not only does the pad surface need to be levelled (not easy to get right, given the multiple contours), it's also necessary to 'V' and then feather-edge all of the cracks so that the filler won't crack along the seams. I'll bet it would take you 20 man-hours of effort (or more) to level, edge-treat, fill, sand, and paint a dash pad like yours to a decent level of final finish. But before you even get started down that road, you'll need to convince yourself that what's left of your original pad has enough structural integrity to prevent the pieces from moving around independently when the cabin temperature goes up or down. With its many full-depth cracks, I don't think I would trust your badly broken-up dash pad to meet that requirement. As a litmus test, it would be interesting to know whether a professional dash restorer like Just Dashes would accept your dash for restoration. Maybe you should send a picture and ask them. IMO, your best path forward will be to either: 1) buy a used dash that offers a better starting point for a DIY restoration (as Siteunseen suggests), or; 2) buy one of the replacement dash pads that have recently become available. In the latter case, you unbolt the old pad from the underlying steel structure (known as the 'armature') and then bolt on the replacement pad. There are a couple of threads on this site that discuss these replacement pads. As a third, lowest-cost/effort alternative, you could just replace your old plastic dash cap with a new one.

A few dollars a month will eliminate the ads. Well worth it IMO.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

@Yarb

I plugged mine off but it doesn't get very cold down here. Less chances off leaking, losing coolant was my main reason. Lots of info in these threads... https://www.google.com/search?q=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=77dc914585b7f4b2&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=1oETafjINaKHp84P-LudoAw&ved=0ahUKEwj4i8S_3uqQAxWiw8kDHfhdB8QQ4dUDCBM&oq=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLXBsdWdnaW5nIHdhdGVyIHRvIGNhcmJzIDI0MHogY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbTIFEAAY7wUyCBAAGKIEGIkFMgUQABjvBTIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FSJZBUOkFWKcfcAF4AJABAJgBlgGgAcYIqgEDMC45uAEMyAEA-AEBmAIKoALsCMICDhAAGIAEGLADGIYDGIoFwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgIKECEYoAEYwwQYCsICCBAhGKABGMMEmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcDMS45oAfSHLIHAzAuObgH5wjCBwUwLjguMsgHFA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Should have put it on BaT so we could pick it apart!

My vote is that electronic distributer. Do you have an old points style one you could swap back to ?

Here's the Franklin Mint model.

Read the articles here about the GM HEI module, if you find that your wiring is smoked or the factory Transistorized Ignition Unit (TIU), aka ignition module, is gone. You can run wires in the engine bay directly from that terminal block with the green and red wires. https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/

So Cody and I got the tachometer working tonight. Big thanks to @cgsheen1 Chuck. His explanation for current flow to the tach and back made it all make sense. I took the tip of my thumb off with a hammer tonight in the shop, so I didn't get the last piece of leather in. Opposable thumbs are really useful, as it turns out.

I am well pleased with the MSA Ceramic Coated Header and Premium Exhaust System I installed some 14 years ago. The fitment was spot on, the OE heat shield fit without bending or mods, no interference with the steering rod or frame rails. The supplied Turbo muffler was a bit loud and had some drone at 3k RPM, a 12" resonator I later installed cured that and softened the sound a bit. A local shop I use was very impressed with the overall design and exceptional quality of the entire system.