Toiletduck34

It does feel like a thick rubbery substance that looks to be brushed on. the passanger side has this as well and is most certainly does have rust to the point i will be replacing the floor pan. Might be doing both sides it looks like.

I was about to go get some dry ice to work on clearing old sound deading but I found this under the carpet. This isn't factory correct? As long as I don't find rust on the underside side I think I'll leave it. Looks too hard to remove fully. Or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks for the imput, I am going back and forth between the options. I know i'll have to do fabriation work to get the Z depot floors to fit, but I dont mind fab work. I just dont know if theres more of a pain getting seat rails mounted or other obstacles that will creat a conflict. I just got a 1977 280z as a project and the previous owner decided the best way to make his car look dfferent was to add about 200 pounds of bando so i feel you on that. gotta love a good project.

I am needing to replace my right side (passenger) floor as there are a few spots of rust. I will be replacing the seat rails as well. I am looking at the Z Car Depot and kfvintagejdm floor pans. The KF floor pans look to be exact molds of the OEM parts while the Z car depot are less detailed aftermarket style. I dont care to keep my car looking OEM and the Z car depot are 1/2 the price about. anyone have expierence with these two options and why i shouldnt go with the Z car depot option? (plus for me would be the Z car depot gives the left side as well if i need for almost the same price as one side of the KF pans) https://zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/floor-pan-replacement-sheet-metal-240z https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun-280z/complete-right-side-floor-pan-datun-280z/

I am in the process of restoring a 280z where i will be adding the Rocket Bunny kit. This kit adds 4 inches to the width of the car so i will be adding larger tires. I've been doing research and found a few articles about current builds with this kit and they are running 17x9.5, -15 off set (FRONT), 17/10, -25 offset (BACK). or similar with 16 inch wheels all with the stanard bolt pattern 4:114.3/4:4.5 I am trying to find options and basically cant unelss they are completly custom which i probably dont want to afford. I technically found a way to do it with 5:120 bolt pattern and a more typical offset around +25 but i would be running 50mm spacers which isnt the best idea. I do like the deep lip offset look of the tires which i would lose by doing this. any suggestions?

Man this guy wasnt a good welder. Instead of cleaning up the welds he just added 1/2 inch of bondo to smooth over it. Luckily 70% of the welds didn't even penetrate so they were easy to cut off

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

This Cowel only had screws that were accessable from under the hood then had tabs that were held inplace with some rubber inserts... besides the welded edges to the fender. lol

Success! I should be able to salvage the fender and cowel.

I'm glad its not common. the previous owner did some weird stuff to this car in the 80s to make it look a certain way. im not so happy im the one who chose to remove all this bondo and booger welds. Ohwell. i guess this is what i signed up for when i wanted a project car. hopefully there isnt as much rust on this car as others.

Is it common for these cars to also Weld the Cowel panel to the fender? I just grinded down the bondo he put connecting the fender and cowel and its welded as well. I dont think he though anyone would ever need to replace the wiper motor. haha. might need to buy a new cowel :S

to be honest i havent even looked at the exhaust. Im assuming it does have cats. I did have a 10K potensiometer laying around and tested this hack from siteunseen and it did work when setting the ohms to ~1000. Car reved to 4500-5000 before shifting without any hesitations. im not planning on driving aggressive at all. but just trying to get the car running well.

searching for a potentiometer is not so easy now adays. i miss radio shack.

Thank you for that info, ill see what i can get done. i would like to see if this would be a main cause and a fix verse a bandage. In the long run im doing to be redoing most of this with more modern technology so it might be a moot point.

I've been getting a 1977 280z up and running after ~20 years sitting. I've replaced all fuel lines, pump, tested for vacuum leaks, etc. I feel like ive tried to tune this thing with the AFM, TPS, and idle screw. If finally have it idling around 800-900 rpms and good power up to ~3000 - 3200 rpms then it feels like it loses engery and sounds like an airy fart. sorry but i dont know how to explain the feeling/sound. it doesnt sound like its about to die b/c its at higher RPM but it feels like it loses all get it up and go. it tried to increase RPM but does very slowly. this is very apparent on 1st and 2nd gear. When i shift into 3rd and 4th i am going fast enough im dont want to floor it. What should i be adjusting? ***side note*** when not in gear I can rev the engine 4-5000+ RPMs and it revs beautifully without hesistations. only when under load.