Yarb

Google a you tube video on using a multimeter. Your looking for how to perform a continuity test and dc voltage testing. That will give you help on doing tests. If you have questions after that post them here and we can help you with testing.

That’s a continuity test using a meter. Are you familiar with the use of a multimeter? Again that’s the only way to get true readings.

The part number is the same for both. Might want to look into getting the threaded sleeve as well.

Rock Auto shows 1981 to be the last year for the 810. Temperature sender from Beck Arnley shows they are the same for the Z series.

Your going to have to trace the circuit. There’s no way around it.

Grab a multimeter and the FSM and follow the wiper motor circuit from the switch to the motor. Establish that you have power going to the switch first. A test light is not the proper tool to use for debugging a circuit. You mentioned earlier you had a working motor that spun freely. Did you try that motor?

Just curious did you try the Kroil?

Mention you are a member of ClassicZ when you ask for pricing. I contacted them directly and saved $.

I’ve purchased from them and are very reputable. When you do contact them address your question to Amy. I had a small problem with a nick in my front bumper during shipment via FedEx and they immediately replaced it.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1256 Here’s a listing from MSA Sent from my iPad

No tricks, Looks like the hatch strut and bracket is in the way.

Those are some good looking rims and shoes. Can’t wait to see those mounted on the car.

225/45/ZR15 ?

Definitely interested in the complete set.

The last thread was somewhat recent. Back around May iirc