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Zed Head

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Everything posted by Zed Head

  1. Disagree, emphatically. But, good luck.
  2. Thought that you were working on a rear wheel cylinder and/or stuck rear brake (Brakes dragging.), one side only. Not clear what the subject is.
  3. Disconnect the line at the wheel cylinder. Use your pressure device at the master cylinder and see if fluid comes through the line. If it does then the bleeder valve or the wheel cylinder is clogged. If it doesn't then there's a blockage before the wheel cylinder.
  4. Did you press on the brake pedal? Not clear what you're doing. Nothing should come out until you apply pressure.
  5. You could stick a heat gun/blow dryer at one end and just let it run for a while. Isopropyl alcohol (AKA rubbing alcohol) will take water with it but it's kind of a spendy way to do it. Take it inside and prop it in front of the fireplace. Stick it over a forced iar heating vent. Take it to bed with you.
  6. Seems like you would, since the cross-sectional mass ratio (I made that term up) will be different on the side with the drilled balance holes compared to the side without.
  7. Take a brake line to the local auto parts store. The people there will find you one. Or here's some good stuff. 10mm x 1mm keeps popping up, with double flare. https://ratsun.net/topic/43646-510-hard-brake-line/
  8. The vertical metal is tubes that the coolant flows through. The horizontal zig-zaggys are just the fins that dissipate the heat from the tubes. It's not necessarily junk if it doesn't leak. But, besides leaking, the tubes need to be clear so that there is good flow and good heat transfer. Just drain it well and store it away. You might also consider taking to a radiator shop and seeing how much it would cost to refurbish it. It used to be common practice to boil them out but it's not so common anymore. Caustic chemicals and longer-lasting coolants make it not so profitable. I had good luck with a parts store Murray radiator. Many of the aftermarket radiators out there are meant for underhood flash, like cold air intakes and chrome hose fittings. Make sure you know what you're getting. And electric fans don't really add much, they're kind of for show also. A shroud, a good fan clutch, and a good radiator works really well. The cooling problems you read about are from 40+ year old parts, not the design of the system.
  9. Looks like a P. But it would affect both wheels, if it affected anything. But it shouldn't cause a lock-up. An easy check if you're not sure is to open the bleed screw, since it's hydraulic. Releasing pressure would release the shoe. But, that's not going to eb the source of the problem. In the big scheme of things it's the person who understands how the system works who might use the "R" for the front brake lines. Because they would know that it doesn't really matter.
  10. Brake parts cleaner used to be chlorinated solvents. Today's common ones are petrochemicals. Might explain the difference. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/chlorinated-vs-non-chlorinated-brake-cleaner/#:~:text=Berryman Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner,best cleaning for brake parts.
  11. Seems like a job for 3D printing.
  12. Those are good posts. I was going to say "every electrical connection". Be prepared to replace the injector connectors if you haven't already. There are much better out there, available at any wrecking yard from Chevys, Volvos, BMW,s etc.
  13. No, you just don't have to see them.
  14. I was showing you the Ignore option without choosing who to Ignore. I would have used my own account to show you but you can't Ignore yourself. so the option does not show.
  15. There are a lot more dealers advertising on the web now. Google or your favorite search engine will find them. Old stock. Actually, this is not a dealer but seems like an outlet for them. https://www.kiacheapparts.com/oem-parts/kia-door-window-belt-weatherstrip-0k01159780?c=bD05Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1raWEmbz1zcG9ydGFnZSZ5PTE5OTkmdD1iYXNlJmU9Mi0wbC1sNC1nYXM%3D
  16. If you hold your cursor (or finger on a phone, I'd guess) over the person's avatar you have the option of Ignoring that person's posts. When you're logged in you won't see their posts. Out of sight, out of mind.
  17. CO posted a time stamp version. The tarp is at the beginning. Before "working on a sex farm, plowing through your bean field".
  18. It's tied to the VIN, which you supplied. It's a small community. There are no winners in these internet forum beefs. The harder a person tries to win the farther away they get from the goal. Best let it fade and start talking about the car.
  19. Off topic - I had to build a Faraday cage from copper mesh to get a CD player to work way back when. You could hear the local radio station on the land line in our apartment, the complex was right next to an antenna. (I am not sure how that worked either since it should have needed a tuner. But the voices were there...). I bought a CD player, took it home, loaded it up (one of those 6 at a time jobbies), and it wouldn't play. I took it back to the store and they tried it and it played. Took it home, still didn't work. The radio over the phone line had always bothered me so it was in mind. I had access to copper mesh so built a tube of mesh around the CD player and it worked. One of those weird things where book learning actually had real world value. Never actually figured out which component was affected.
  20. Not sure why but that link comes up as "item not found". The best way to post videos is to make a youtube channel or upload them to Google Drive or Microsoft's OneDrive, then provide the link.
  21. Just to rewind this back the very beginning - we all suggested that the piston be removed from the bore to check the seal so that the new one does not leak like the old one did. That was the original point of the thread, I think. It has not been accomplished. Wally is still talking about a plastic or steel cap when he's looking at the face of the piston that we want him to remove. If there's no spring behind it then pressure can be used to pop it from the bore by applying air to the fluid inlet or bleed screw. Overall, he might be installing another dirty slave cylinder. A big circle with the same end result.
  22. That is splitting hairs, I think. And z89 had a good point about telling what the sellers accepted, maybe they gave him a sweet deal because he was a good guy. In today's collector world, you're supposed to hang on for every dollar otherwise people get upset that you're harming the "marque". If the number is too low then people will start abusing "Bob and Marci" for selling too low. That actually happened on the barn find 76 280Z. Somebody implied that the seller had sold too cheap and was foolish for not holding out. Money is always a touchy subject. Ideally, big picture, z89 would have known or assumed that people on the most popular Z car site in the world might know who the previous owners were. The thread should have started with "Hey, I bought Bob and Marci's 240Z!". But he just joined a couple of years ago so apparently did not think about that. A person could argue that Patcon (sorry Patcon) should have thought about that too. Everybody wondered but was anybody really surprised when he didn't give an answer? The attempt to create an interesting story has gone awry. But it can be saved, the car is now owned by an enthusiast instead of an investor. That's a good thing, right?
  23. I hate to feed the fire, but, although Patcon is always one of the level-headed respectful members, in this case, asking how much somebody paid is not quite right. I think the old word to describe the request used to be "gauche", I although I don't know why since it's just French for left. So we had a wrong request and a poor response and now people are piling on. He did provide the VIN and it is in Carl Beck's list. And, I think that "Bob and Marci" have posted on the site since I joined back in 2009. So, maybe they had a reason to sell. Maybe something happened. That's where I would go if I knew them or had a personal relationship with them. I would @ them but if they wanted to talk about selling their car they probably would have posted already.
  24. Seems like there is too much help in this thread. But, I'll still add this. p.s. the fact that the piston is deep in the bore means that the seal is tight or the bore is dry or both. The spring should push it forward. (Actually, outward).
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