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  1. The purpose of this thread is to discuss Z-cars at Concours events. I know that individual Concours events have been mentioned here on classiczcars.com, but I was hoping to set up a thread that might encompass all of them so that the subject is not so scattered. The goal is to have a Concours thread where people could offer tips, voice their thoughts and opinions, promote local Concours events, and of course show some awesome pictures. First off, entering your Z car in a Concours show is really a mixed bag for us Z owners. I remember excitedly talking with bobc about this subject the first time I was accepted into a Concours show. With sage advice, he told me not to get too excited about it. He told me, “most Concours judges have no idea what to look for in a Japanese vehicle. If you tell the judges that the Z cars came from Japan with blacked out engine bays and V-8s, they would believe you”. Of course I dismissed this comment. Lo and behold, at my second Concours show, the winning Z car entry had blacked out engine bay, a lot of chromed engine parts, and was not even painted a standard Z car color. Oh well, I was warned:ermm:. I still enter the Concours events but try not to get my hopes up too high. The other side of this coin is that Concours events can be quite a wonderful event for the Z owner. At one local Concours event, I was one of the few individuals personally interviewed at the event (broadcast throughout the show on the golf course), I received a car identification placard (brushed aluminum) that is nicer than just about any trophy I have received, and the people that I met and spoke with were great. Not to mention an exceptional goody bag, first class photos and web PR, parking on the fairway with an ocean view, and car positioned near the show entrance so that virtually everyone in attendance would walk by and see the car. I thought I had died and gone to car show heaven:bunny:. Doubt I will ever be in a better show than that. Along with the great shows and bad shows, there is one issue that us Z-car owners continue face with car events. This issue seems to be….…should I say it…..discrimination. Take a look at the judged categories for most major Car shows. Of course you have a wide array of US car categories; Ford, Chevy, muscle cars, etc. There is typically a European car category or specifically German and Italian, or Jaguar, Porsche and Ferrari . But do you find Asian or Japanese car categories? Rarely. It’s almost as if Nissan and Toyota don’t exist. I find that very odd, and they have been selling cars for quite some time. Anyway, not sure if we will ever get a clear answer as to why Asian cars are not in the mix, but definitely feeling a little discrimination. Along this line, I will be displaying my Z in the upcoming La Jolla Concours. The only category that my car fit in was the “Preservation” category. Oh well, whatever it takes. Anyway, just thought I’d set this up and see where it goes. Rich
  2. My 1970 Z has been in the family for nearly 49 years (4/70 build date). I was 9 years old when my dad brought the car home brand new and I distinctly remember the day. It was purchased in Florida (I have the original receipt), where dad worked on occasion, but driven to California where we lived for a number of years. My dad owned it and took excellent care of the car for about 38 years. He passed the car onto me several years before he passed away. The car is very original and mostly unrestored (I did clean up the engine bay). The paint is the original 49 year old factory paint job. The interior is pretty much untouched and still has the original uncracked dash, slightly worn seats, radio, carpet etc. Undercarriage, glass, chrome, and weather stripping are also all original and have never been removed. I don’t really do anything to the car other than drive it several times a year just to stretch it’s legs and keep things moving. It has pretty much been garaged it's entire life. The car still runs very smoothly and is a nice driver. It has a little over 98K miles on it.
  3. I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!
  4. Here are some of the award links. Would be nice to have a video of the presentation. http://autoweek.com/gallery/car-life/winners-la-jolla-concours Pic # 23 https://www.lajollaconcours.com/2018-winners
  5. 1 point
    I did this modification in July 2014, it's now November 2015 and it's still running strong. The modification is totally concealed in the TIU so the original harness is unchanged. To revert back to original is simple as changing the TIU. The instruction is based on a 1977 280Z, but it can also be used for the 1978 280Z TIU with the terminal block connector. You will need to cut the metal strips that connect the terminals in the terminal block to the circuits. Be sure to leave enough to solder the wires. The terminal block can be fitted, using the original screws, to the aluminium base plates. See link to the files area where you can download: Regards Chas This post has been promoted to an article
  6. Hey everyone just joined I have a 75 260z I will get more pictures soon Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. Off to paint jail On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not
  8. New old stock Nissan tools with tool roll bag. New, vintage, still in original plastic bags---- not a reproduction. Not specific to the Z car alone, but available with many Datsun and early Nissan models as a Dealer available accessory item. Even includes a points file for you purists!
  9. Now it has 4 wheels, three carbs and two seats, so i guess it's a 432 now? 😂😂
  10. I removed the chrome strips when painting and they went back on without any problems
  11. Also I just came back from Williams AZ today for the 1st JDM Classic Show. It was a blast... we got some rain......had a lot of fun.
  12. 72/240z = 39 5/8th" this car has had a minor front end collision, 77/280z = 39 1/4" no front end damage that I can see.
  13. I'm declaring success! Here are my before and after pics. I've had the painted bumpers on for 7 years so it's going to be an adjustment to now seeing a bright finish. Overall, the fitment went very well. The arc on the center section is a perfect match with the rear valance. The body mount on the left end was welded a bit rearward but the bracket was easily adjusted. Here are significant things to note: The threaded fittings are all M10-1.5, a more coarse thread than OE. New bolts and nuts are required. The threaded fittings all have paint on them, need to cleaned and chased with tap and die. The carriage bolt kit does not contain lock washers. I'll give the vendor some feedback on that. Next up is installing my JDM front bumper to complete the transition to "Oh, Shiney"!
  14. The turn signals say 240, but those are clearly 280 bumpers!!
  15. So, I am actually starting work on this guy again. Slow, but it's coming along. I was sidetracked for a bit with the 'Deja Vu' project and also had some house stuff to fix up. (I actually built a nice custom shed to store stuff in, like car parts. I will get pictures of the shed later. Very happy with how it turned out.) Anyway, I am starting the tear down as you can see in the pics. I have learned that the key to this is to have nicely marked tubs to put your parts in. Engine parts go in the engine tub, interior parts in the interior tub, parts to be zinced go in the zinc tub. And as always, take lots of pics. I love how original the car is; lots of the original wire clamps, heater hoses, smog hoses, bolts that have never been removed and are in good condition. This has been very easy to disassemble so far. Took out the original antenna and bench tested; it works great. Got the motor pulled out last weekend with the help of @Montezuma. Hopefully, I will have this stripped in a month or two, then off to Miguel's for paint. Here are some pics.
  16. If you can get them looking like this to start off with you'll be way ahead. If it ramps up like Evel Kinevel's it's out of whack. The best thing to do is get them opening and closing right side up not upside down like the Just SUs DVD shows. Those are Grose jets and we get the much more sensitive needle valves. I fought this for a year before I figured it out. Car runs better than ever now.
  17. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  18. Just did this job myself. To confirm for you, the lip faces away from the hatch opening (i.e. faces to the front of the car for the section that goes over the top of the hatch). Before you get started with the adhesive, use a paint-friendly cleaning liquid to clean both the pinch strip surface and the surface where the lip will seat. Use the same cleaner to clean the inside groove of the weatherstrip, as well as the bottom surface of the lip. Apply a light coating of weatherstrip adhesive to the inboard edge of the pinch strip. Also apply a thin smear of adhesive to the underside of the weatherstrip lip. Forget about applying adhesive "to both surfaces" (overkill). When installing the weatherstrip, start from the centre of the top of the opening and work outward to one side and then down. Then go back and do the other side. The weatherstrip will stick pretty firmly right from the get go, so go slowly and avoid creating wrinkles. Be extra careful around the upper corners of the opening. The pinch strip isn't very tall and it's easy to miss the actual contour of the corner when you're pushing the weatherstrip into place. Pushing a length of clear-vinyl tubing (1/2" diameter?) down into the groove so that it presses down on the lip will help to seat the weatherstrip properly (especially around those two corners). If you don't remove the hatch from the car, it will be a bear of a job (maybe impossible?) to install the weatherstrip properly over the top of the hatch opening. Probably a good idea to apply painter's cling-film over the roof and rear quarter panels around the opening before you get started with the adhesive.
  19. Great thread! My take on it with a vintage Adult Swim koozie and some liquid nails on a 113 green background...
  20. Well, It looks like we are good for me to pick up this Z. I will need to contact the owner and work out arrangements....aahhh the concessions. She said that I should see if i can put a deposit down on the car and pick it up in a couple months when we have more room. If not, I will have to see about working out a storage location with Montezuma. And she want some house upgrades done as well....concessions, So, I have to be completely honest here. The love of my wife's life is her 1 year old grand nephew. We are not grandparents ...yet...so I guess she is practicing with the grand nephew. She asked about putting together our kids old hobby horse which had been stored for years, in pieces, up in the garage rafters. She wants to give it to her grand nephew for his first birthday. So instead of doing car stuff on Sunday, I surprised her with the completely restored hobby horse. I even put clear plastic over the springs to prevent finger pinch. Anyway, she was just thrilled to death about this. I figured this was necessary to make sure she was in a very good mood. I showed her pics of the car this AM and she really liked it. So, very happy with all this. I will try and work out some time where we can drive out to the sellers place in the roadster and see the car. Maybe next weekend. Will keep things updated as it progresses here. .
  21. I brought a surprise Z home once. It was in the backyard for about a month before she noticed...
  22. Hi Sean, I ended up ordering a jdm muffler from you! Had it put on 2 months ago and love it. I'm running a 2.5" pipe to it, no additional mufflers or resonators and it's loud as sh@#*t but amazing sounding. Most comparable to a pack of 12 grizzly bears and 13 lions sent up from the depths of hell.
  23. Hi Jeff. If you haven't already decided, I just loaded some videos of mine here :
  24. This afternoon I received the .055 wire (both SS, p/n 9495K91 and carbon steel, p/n 9666K68) that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. Both wire types look to me like they will do the job and measured very close to 0.055" by micrometer. Both wires seem to have about the same spring back capability. That comment is a bit subjective as I just tried to feel the amount of effort it took to bend the wire until it would not flex back to its original state. When I compared the bending effort to do the same test on the original choke wire from my car, it took less effort to bend the wire to the point it would not flex back. I would say that the original choke cable wire has a lower ultimate tensile strength that either of the new wires. Hopefully on the weekend I will be able to test both of the new wire types in my car. FYI, For other Canadians trying to order from McMaster-Carr, don't bother unless you can order through a company or they will cancel your order. I first set up a web account with them and they sent me the message the next morning: "Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders." Luckily with one phone call I was able to add my company name to my web account and then I could place my order. All in all the service was good and I will use them in the future. Mike
  25. I have just placed an order with McMaster Carr for both the SS wire and phosphate coated carbon steel wire above. I will report back with my observations of both products after I receive them.
  26. Here's another idea for choke cable wire if you are worried about corrosion: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9495k91/=11m0s0p It has a little lower tensile strength than A228 music wire but it still looks to have good properties and a good price. McMaster-Carr also has Hi-tensile steel music, Here are the specs for comparison to the SS wire above: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9666k68/=11m0vpx This wire does have a phosphate coating which would give a small amount of corrosion resistance and help decrease friction inside the outer cable sheath.
  27. i bought the same wire for my heater control cables. the outer part i bought at a local bike shop. less than $20 for everything
  28. We just put together a new more economical rear disc conversion kit for the S30 Z car's. $379.00 complete, check it out: https://zcardepot.com/brakes/rear-brakes/disc-brake-conversion-rear-disk-240z-260z-280z-1331.html?search=rear+disc
  29. I use phone/data wire to hold those bolts that thread into another part.
  30. Many times I will put bolts and nuts back on the part after it is removed so you have the correct size and length in the correct location. On some parts this is not possible but on many it is...
  31. Another good example of how a sand blasting cabinet and fine abrasive glass can clean and restore parts! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
  32. Seriously? You're worried about changing from Philips to Allen or torx on the horns because it might be "obvious"? Seriously? I know obvious (obviously) and that's not obvious. Haha! That said, if I ever, ever, ever see your car, that's one of the first things I'm going to check for. You better thank your lucky stars that I'm not a show judge.
  33. At least its not nightmares! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
  34. You're killing me with those garage pics - be still my heart! I've been down the full resto/rebuild path with my car so here's a few quick tips: - don't trust your memory! Bag and tag every nut/screw/bolt/part immediately as it comes off the car. Become the zip bag king of your block. - tag both ends of each electrical connection before they come apart or tag a single end with its function/location. - write down each item to be replaced as soon as you identify it as such. - throw nothing away until after the replacement is fully installed. I fully dismantled my car and then life intervened. When I got back to it 10 years later the above practices paid off big time. Looking forward to your updates.
  35. Thanks for the heads up Jim. He states the unit he has is for 70-76 models and is probably the 6 bar unit as the 10 bar unit was only used in the 69-70 production. I made some tests on the gauge. It appears to be looking for: 0 psi - 83 ohms 25 psi - 60 ohms 50 psi - 40 ohms 90 psi - 24 ohms A note to anyone trying this, the water temp/oil pressure gauge has an internal voltage regulator that is a bi-metal mechanical type that is to slow for our digital meters.
  36. BELOW: A picture from Amelia - Race Cars 1963 to 1972 BELOW: One of my favorite pictures - a fellow 240Z Enthusiast {RIGHT} helping me re-polish the Mag.'s - after the car was put on the show field in a very early morning fog. The moisture in the air just flashes the polished Mag's to a dull silver. THANKS WILL!! BTW - we didn't see anyone pitching it to help the poor guy that brought that Ferrari... Z Car People are great! BELOW: Peter Brock and I spent some time on the Beach at Amelia Island - This is just one of my personal favorites... I was telling Mr. Brock to hold his stomach in - like this! We were laughing so hard a friend had to take the picture three times. The wind was blowing about 30 knots that day as well! BELOW: A picture from the Mirror Lake Concours d'Elegance, in Lakeland, Florida. Note the Group 44 cars down front. The TR-6 is the car that Paul Newman drove.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    I love the way you make the chrome shine!
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Bob Sharp? Looks to be RHD and with Japanese market fender mirrors. Did Bob Sharp ever use an RHD car? Was this based on an existing photo, Jerry?
  41. 1 point
    Nice work Lynn! I'm glad to see more of your Z car art.
  42. 1 point
    Jerry another great work...Hey contact me if your planning to go to MSA this year.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Jerry, I want to buy a print. Is that possible? I'm serious. I'd also like to know if I could commision a watercolor of my cars Z and Roadster. My office will be complete with those on the wall.
  45. 1 point
    Awesome! Hey you got to come by and see the car!!
  46. 1 point
    One day I'll fit this manifold. designed for 2xT28 flanged turbos & a Turbonetics Racegate to all fit reasonably comfortably in a Z engine bay.
  47. 1 point
    most recent photos of project car. Added air dam, hood, and lights http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/
  48. 1 point
    looking good . I have done the same thing to the front bumpers , I like the straight lines also. First rate


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