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  1. Hello everyone! I hope this message finds you well. It's been a long couple of years. After my last update, which was exactly 2 years and 2 days ago, I spent 2019 moving a family of 8, along with 7 Datsuns, into a new house. Truth be told, the Datsuns, and all their parts, outgrew the space. We had to move! So 2019 was spent renovating the old house and getting it to market. We were handed keys to the new house in February of 2019, along with an ultimatum that the front and backyard landscaping needed to be completed within 12 months to avoid HOA "nasty-grams" threatening fines. 2020 started off promising. The economy was on fire. Work was great. We were planning to celebrate my 50th birthday in March with a road trip to wine country in #8701. It was definitely time to get back to restoring #187. But all those plans were temporarily placed on hold upon news of my father's health in late January. Within 2 weeks of finding out he had stage 4 pancreatic cancer, he departed this world. It was a somber Valentine's Day 2020. We took comfort knowing he passed without much suffering. In fact, he reported no pain at all. Unlike many during the lockdown, we were fortunate to be at his bedside until his final breath at 77. Please indulge me while I speak of him. He was a descendent of generations of Vietnamese farmers. As such, he was destined to become one, but as fate would have it, he was drafted and placed into service. At the beginning of the conflict, Bell UH-1 Iroquois (nicknamed "Huey") were arriving in theater, but they came without pilots. So a batch of Vietnamese Air Force officers were hand picked and sent to Fort Sam Houston in San Antonio, Tx to learn how to pilot the Huey. Interestingly enough, I completed my officer basic course (OBC) at Fort Sam Houston 4 decades later and separated from service with the exact same rank as my dad. Upon returning home from Texas, he flew special ops mission, flying upwards of 3 to 4 sorties a day for 8 years. It was an amazing feat. One old combat vet that spoke at his funeral said, "When we would climb aboard the Huey, we would always check upfront to see who was piloting the bird. When we saw that it was MAJ Huynh, we knew we would be home for dinner." During the war, he was introduced to his future wife, a young lady who was a descendent of royalty. Her father was the nephew to the king. What does that make me you ask? Absolutely nothing. [emoji1787] I digress. They married months later and had my brother in 68 and I followed in 1970. On April 30, 1975, the Fall of Saigon, we were on the tarmac at Ton Son Nhat Airport awaiting evacuation to US naval ships off the coast. Needless to say, plans for an orderly evacuation were scraped when the North Vietnamese planes began bombing the airport. As such, Operation Frequent Wind was implemented. I don't recall much other than booming explosions and the ironclad grip of my mom's hand handcuffed around my wrist as she dragged us out of the belly of a Boeing CH-47 Chinook onto a Huey. Despite the uncertainty of our Huey lifting off, 30 passengers, mostly women and children, made their escape by helicopter onto the USS Midway. As a young boy growing up, I would watch footages of Bell Huey being pushed over the deck to make room for incoming helicopters, and not once did I equate those clips to my past. It wasn't until the 40th Anniversary of the Fall of Saigon, when a large ceremony was held on the deck of the USS Midway, now a floating museum in San Diego, to honor my father and his squadron did I come to appreciate the significance of that aircraft carrier. The USS Midway evacuated my family and thousands of other refugees to the new world. Unfortunately my mom's journey ended in Hawaii after succumbing to malaria and pneumonia. She passed at 27, and my dad, then 33, a widow with 2 toddlers, began life in America with only the clothes on our backs, literally. Given the umpteenth times he has cheated death as a helicopter pilot, I thought my dad was invincible, capable of living well into his 90's, certainly long enough to enjoy driving #187 after the restoration. After all, it was he who bought me my first Datsun in high school, a used red 1979 Datsun 280ZX with 77K miles. We picked it up in Fontana from a gentleman that races top fuel for a living. I remembered our trip home. We got on the freeway and he gunned it. My dad rarely smiled, but he did that day, and we smiled all the way home. Now that I've laid my father to rest, I can once again turn my attention to restoring #187. Thank you for indulging me. Due to COVID-19, the panels that Rod ordered sat in quarantine at the border for months. The parts finally arrived last month and he striped the car to a rolling chassis in preparation for the body shop. Sorry I don't have anymore pictures to share but I will in the near future. Here's wishing you all a safe and happy Labor Day weekend! P.s Not sure why my father was the only one on that helicopter with a life vest on. You think he would have given it to me. [emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  2. Car arrived Friday from Miguel. The paint work is amazing as always. Since it has only been around 110 degrees F here in San Diego, I decided to do a little work on the car. Got the underside painted with POR-15 and then added a little undercoating. Painted the forward radiator supports, rear vent holes and the wire tabs. Started installing a few components that were ready to go. My son is going to lend a hand tomorrow so should be able to finish up the brake and fuel lines and install the suspension. She's looking pretty nice!
  3. CO, you don't need to weld the perch and hope that you have picked the right height, you can mount the perches on split collars and raise and lower them until you're satisfied they are perfect and then weld them. In fact the split collars clamp with such force that you could tack the perch to one side of the collar and leave it at that.
  4. My good friend TJ Lord and his father Gary were gunned down in their Virginia City gun store yesterday.TJ was a sniper and my sniper instructor when I decided to take that training just because as an officer, I could. He made me feel welcome when I think the other students thought I was just an elitist shouldering my way in to the training.Lately, I would see him at the range as I still go almost daily.We both made it back from Iraq with me spending time in hospitals for over a year. It's just so hard to have a brother killed violently when we both thought we were safe now... Well, as safe as you can ever feel after combat. We'd laugh about both trying to get the chair facing the door in restaurants. We'd tell each other when a nightmare woke us up. We'd laugh at ourselves for only knowing how to say "get on the ground" in Arabic. He taught my daughter how to shoot and how to clean her weapon. I never told him but she had a crush on him and told me but not him... People say 'thank you for your service," but truthfully, we did it for the man or woman standing next to us. TJ stood next to me. RIP brother...
  5. Kats is fine, don't worry about him. We keep in touch and - as you can perhaps imagine - the Japanese airline industry is facing a lot of upheavals at the moment, so he has been seeing some changes in his work pattern.
  6. I will try to get some more pictures for everyone this week. I think I might have located a 70 240Z donor car, and I have never driven this car, and don't plan on it until the rust/frame rail have been addressed.
  7. I already went down the road with a 260 donor for a 240....it will ruin the value of your car to anyone that’s a collector down the road. Too much is different on the front end. Wait for the right car.
  8. preface: I am working on the restoration of a 73 240z. A mentor of mine used to say “The enemy of good is better”. I adopted this saying but often times I unfortunately ignore it. Our car “the bucket” has what I believe is its original center console. It has a single slot on the driver’s side for the choke control. At some time in the past the original choke control arm and bracket were replaced with a generic pull out handle and cable mounted where the cigarette lighter would normally be located. It worked well enough with the previous owner’s conversion to a Holey 4 barrel. I returned the car to a dual SU setup. The choke reminder lamp was also replaced with a blank piece of plastic. I could have used the generic control for the SU setup, but “the enemy of good is better”. I looked at the Console and I looked at the empty slot for the choke control and once again I ignored my training – “the enemy of good is better”. I located a choke control arm, original cable, and a choke indicator lamp. I purchased a bracket to mount them on the transmission tunnel so that the 40+ year old plastic console would not be stressed by the mechanical action of the choke control. I wired in the lamp taking a silly shortcut using power from the rear defroster switch. I believe the switch plastic failed and that set up a nasty sequence of events. Ultimately a short melted the plastic choke control switch before it could be protected by blowing a fuse. The hatch defrost circuit has a 20 amp fuse. It blew but too late to protect the mini switch. I know better but I made a number of silly mistakes that I am not proud of but my errors led me to a fix that I thought might help you. choke control switch alternative: if your choke control switch is not working and you need to replace it this might help. Above is the original choke control switch. Normally it has 2 leads, but one was weak and it broke, which probably helped to create the short that melted it. It mounts to the control arm bracket with two screws thru the holes on either side of the switch. Above is the control arm bracket. The pen is pointing to the hole where the switch button protrudes when mounted. The threaded holes on either side are to mount the switch. I could not locate an original plastic switch. I decided to use a limit switch and bought the following on Amazon. MXRS SPDT 1NO 1NC 5.5cm Hinge Lever Momentary Push Button Micro Limit Switch AC 5A 125V 250V 3 Pins 12 Pcs. Hard to believe but 12 switches cost less than $7.00. Above is the original switch on the left and the switch that I bought on the right. The nice thing about this switch is that there are three pins which allow you to alter its definition. Depending on which pins are used the switch can be either normally open or normally closed. The issue for me was a mechanical one – mounting the switch. Naturally it does not mate to the control arm bracket in the same fashion as the original. There are two holes that go thru the body of the new switch. So the mounting orientation is off by 90 degrees and the red button is not long enough to protrude through the bracket like the original switch. I wanted to make as few changes as possible to the control arm bracket. Only one additional hole was necessary. I also cut part of the bracket to provide more clearance for the pin that returns to the indicator lamp . Above is the control arm bracket with the new switch mounted to it. The pen points to the lever (shortened) of the limit switch. If you look closely you see the red button that it contacts when the control arm (black handle) contacts the switch lever. The bracket is upside down in the picture. The control arm is in the activated position, equivalent to applying the choke for starting, pulling the cables, the indicator lamp would be lit. In order to mount the new switch I had to enlarge the mounting holes in the switch body. I enlarged them to accommodate #4 metric screws. There is at least enough room for this, just go slowly. The new switch is actually mounted to the horizontal plate that I bought separately to eliminate the need to attach the control arm bracket to the bottom of the center console. There are a lot of benefits to mounting it to the transmission tunnel. It is a real pain to remove/install the center console with the control arm mounted to it. The 40+ year old plastic is brittle and a common complaint Is that the control arm cable binds and the stress breaks the plastic center console. Above is a picture of the choke control in the inactive position, cables released. You can see the red button and the switch lever. They are depressed so continuity is broken and the indicator lamp is off. in the image above is the control arm and bracket. It is upright, the front of the car is in the direction of the keyboard. The arm is forward, the choke is off, the indicator lamp is extinguished. above is the control arm and bracket. Just in front of the original switch mount is where I removed a small part of the bracket for extra clearance for the pin the extends out of the new switch back. If you have any questions feel free to ask away.
  9. Went over to Vancouver Island on Sunday and spent the day on a cruise with a bunch of Datsun folks, it was a enjoyable drive. Everyone did the social distancing thing. @zKars I think you would know most if not all of these cars and their owners.
  10. Eh, I don't know that I would say it feels good on the budget part 😉 It's a slippery slope building at this level and then you get to a certain point where you just can't cut corners. I don't intend to ever build a car to this level again to be honest. Too much time, effort and money. I tend to like to build a car I can either break even or make money on. This will have little to no chance of either. But I do enjoy the build and part of me is getting bummed out that it's getting close to being done because it has been such an amazing journey.
  11. But isn't the Z the most excellent automobile from which to siphon gas? There's hardly another that gives you such quick and trouble-free access! (As a side note - I have to emissions check my 260Z every year here in the Phoenix area. The twits at the emissions station have NO WAY to check my gas cap. I love seeing them take it off, scratch their heads, shrug their shoulders, put it back on, and PASS the gas cap because they can't test it! You have to take joy in life where you can find it...)
  12. This picture needs to be posted on the boobs thread!
  13. Hi all Really looking forward to starting this project and getting all of your input and advice along the way! Im new to this forum, Ive spent lots of time lurking though! I have been posting on the australian forum but traffic is quite low on there so hoping to get quicker input on here. I did also consider hybridz but I think my resto will be more in line with classiczcars as Im not transplanting a V10 into mine... Names Ryan, I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth Western Australia. Vin is HS30-001063 I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHZhre0vm7sL2Kl7hUQFVkg About the car: History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me. Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin. Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car. Plans for the car: Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock - Color change, unsure as to color just yet, was leaning toward white but recently I have been liking safari gold - L28 stroked out - Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$ - BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point apex engineering strut brace in rear - Initially all suspension components will be restored and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date) - Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z - Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading some it. Think Alcantara and leather - wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc - Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look - Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you) - Exterior besides the lack of chrome will be very stock, no flares etc, thinking about maybe doing a BRE style lower lip air dam thingy Here are some photos just before I started stripping it
  14. Yet another round of wildfires in California, Oregon, and Washington. I am seeing a lot of smoke in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area, which is a nuisance to work in, but some folks are losing their homes and lives. I hope those here in the path of the fires are safe.
  15. As I am today rebuilding another wiper linkage, I thought I would contribute some more detailed pictures of the fancy wiper park components for future posterity. Out of, ahem, "several" available wiper linkages, I have only a single one that has an unbroken spring. Thought I would include detailed pictures of it in hopes of some day creating new ones, as well as to show the assembly order and position of all the components Here is the little spring with oft-broken off hook engaged where it belongs Complete and broken example for comparison of where the break happens and how long the bent tang is Clever photography (ie move it around until you can see it), shows the shiny spots and wear on the bottom of the spring. All the bits and pieces in order from top to bottom. Top is defined as having the end with the (poor excuse for a ) snap ring/C-clip pointing up when you're taking it apart. I have used a real compatible sized E clip to replace that obnoxious soft C clip thing. This gives you a visual idea of how the eccentric cam part fits with the hole in the arm, effectively changing the arm length as the cam rotates. Another shot showing how the spring and the "millennium falcon" part with the slot are arranged in the assembly. Clearly this proves the designer of said space ship in the movie was a Datsun owner.
  16. So I signed up for Youtube TV. I guess they call them "streaming services" now, we used to call it "cable". Basically you can watch programs on your computer. Or one of the new computerized TV's. Most of today's "TV"s are actually just very large computer monitors. Now I find that the commercials on the major main stream networks that I watch follow my latest Google searches. So Youtube, owned by Google, gets information from Google and tailors the TV commercials to match what I'm looking at on the internet. It's not even spooky anymore. Sometimes i try to mess with them by searching things that i want to see commercials about. Is that some boo sh...t? I don't even have TV commercial commonality with the rest of the world anymore. Just seems crazy that they spend so much time trying to drill in to my head. Many of the ads on the web pages are for things that I just bought on Amazon. I just bought it!! Why show me an ad for it. The above might qualify as a rant. I don't know. Edit - also just realized that this might all be in my head. Not sure...
  17. Are you ready for the photo flood to start? Day 1 (or is it Day 0?) https://photos.app.goo.gl/xLN3ymszPDNSx87j6 This morning https://photos.app.goo.gl/UxdKfupPw7E6ZDyh6
  18. The L28 is i think the most wanted z engine at the moment (of the L series), also a reliable engine. Over here i would buy it in a flash! For that price, only a good gearbox is more expensive than that! You plan to rebuild it.. if it was stored dry and sometimes turned and oiled.. it is very possible to NOT rebuild it. also.. nobody can look straight through the engine or gearbox, so it's always a gamble. Look for damage and wear, a bad cam says a lot of miles and a expensive rebuild..
  19. Go LED headlights, reduces the current requirements to the point where relays are barely required to protect our sensitive old headlight switches. either Dapper OE7’s or LED H4 bulbs in Hella or Bosch (or similar) housings is the way to go. Dapper’s OE7 (and OE5) lights are astoundingly good and look OEM. Bright white light and sharp cut off. 2.1 Amp each on low beam. https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7 BTW the blurry photo is caused by extreme speed and distraction of the photographer by the beauty of the subject matter...
  20. Sorry folks, you may have seen the note we put up in our store, this Covid thing has forced a couple more guys to step down to take care of family, including James temporarily, and we were already short on warm bodies, so we've been a bit overwhelmed, but still standing and swinging. We have a couple of new guys starting soon, both of them Z owners, so if we've missed any of your emails or messages know we're working hard to get caught up. I was able to check in with Lee between his recent business trips. He is traveling (again), and having log-in issues, but I mentioned the Stainless issue to him and he said that the hardware is chromed steel, not stainless. Now that discussion is above my pay grade, lol, so I'll let Lee pick up any further questions when he gets back. It has already been answered previously, but that disc is completely there just to avoid possible air damage to the seal, by giving paths for the air to move freely if the bump stop comes all the way down. I guess they used to see it happen way back and thus came up with the disc as a simple yet fully effective solution. One of the projects that has suffered with the current situations is making a picture-gram of how the pieces go together on the strut just to add clarity. The sleeve and the bump stop go together like this image I took. I believe this was also described early on in this thread, but I never made it to making that diagram/image. Sorry about that. I'll make a real one soon with all the pieces. Then instructions are also something Lee is looking into, but those wheels turn pretty slow, especially with our current world. Somebody said it was done like that to make it work for all languages, which is exactly correct. We hate to see that anybody had any trouble with their struts, but it is great to hear from so many who love the performance. Ok, it's nearing 10:30 pm here in SoCal, back to answering more emails!
  21. Hey I bet I can save you $8k, the suspension might look like it is shot and certainly the original rubber bushings are but you may be very surprised how well new rubber bushings make the car feel. There are more than a few guys here that have gone the poly urethane bushings route then turned around and replaced that with fresh OEM rubber. If the car is a dedicated track car that's one thing, if you're doing a mixture of town and country driving then the harshness of the poly can get old really fast. TTT's stuff is sexy for sure but all new rubber bushings and mounts is only going to set you back about $500, however, poly mounts for the steering rack really are a must. Just my opinion.
  22. I am absolutely blown away by the responses! Haven't posted on too many forums but I usually get blasted on the first post no matter where it is. I looked a lot more into things last night and wow do parts get expensive! Not to mention machining and other things. I think I am going to cool it on my thinking about hp, I know these cars are light and do well with "lower" hp numbers. I am NEVER lucky.... I usually approach car stuff with a take it apart now and then price as I go, but I see with the engine I REALLY need to make a spreadsheet and plan for everything I am going to do and then execute later. As well as adding 50% to that and then probably spending double lol. I agree! Alright, next step will be getting it ready for a compression test and hopefully leakdown as well. That is an awesome stand, loved the videos, I may be interested to do it! So much more to think about...... In terms of my plans for the car, this list also goes in order of operations. I hope to finish the car with about 15-20k. This leaves about 3 or 4k for the engine, power is not my main concern atm and can be revisited later as I know these cars are fun stock and its simple enough to pull the engine and really get it done if I choose to in the future. I prefer suspension and tires over power as there are a lot of fun curvy roads out here and I don't like speeding tickets... Everything in this list is fully DIY except for the engine. Got the car for $1,000 Currently fixing body (its not too bad, almost all the usually non-structural rust spots) for hopefully ~$500-1,000 Painting at home for ~$2,000 (already priced out liquids and know where I am buying it) lets hope I can do it well 🤪 Fix engine... ???$ New wiring harness - ~$400 (I'm actually excited for building this, thinking about templating and trying to sell some to earn little bit of cash for the build as well as helping other with a high quality harness) Rebuild transmission - ~$500 (hopefully) Rebuild differential, maybe OBX LSD - $500-1,000 Hoping for a full Techno Toy build as almost everything under the car looks shot and I hate money. $8,000-10,000 Interior - ~$1000 This is quite an ambitious project, but I have about 3 months till my next job starts and look forward to putting 40-60 hour weeks into this. Please let me know if my plan is dumb lol. I look forward to asking for lots of help and learning a lot...🤓
  23. A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time
  24. I’m in the business too, I can confirm that the prices have jumped More than 100% since spring. I was very fortunate to buy my lumber for my personal barn conversion to garage/workshop in the spring otherwise it would have cost me double in August when I really did it 😳... A 11$ osb 4x8 sheet in spring is now 23$ the last time I checked. here is the almost finished project that I will finish during the cold winter months!...
  25. I have the frost fighter grid on my 510 rear glass. It’s pretty tough yet thin. No problem cleaning it with a rag and invisible glass cleaner so far.
  26. LOL. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard that......
  27. Hi Dmuzial, I have a 78Z manual, and had this same problem about a year and a half ago....actually started a thread in the Engine and Drivetrain section since I originally ran across the problem when installing the diff...you can see it here: Lots of good responses to my questions by the forum members. Bottom line was that some of the drawings in the FSM were copied from previous year models and are incorrect. Like you, I initially installed the bar with the bushing cylinders aft of the mustache bar (per the FSM diagram) only to discover that I couldn't get the forward diff mount to line up correctly. It all worked out good once I reversed the bar so that the bushing cylinders were forward. Love this forum...never fails to get you back on track with whatever Z problem you're tackling at the moment!
  28. I just read your story to my wife. I'm 70 and she's 65, and we lived through that era and watched the war on TV. My high school classmates (class of '69) went over, and some did not return. I'm glad your dad and your family made it out. He was clearly a remarkable and admirable gentleman.
  29. Hi Jim Thanks so much for the warm welcome! Its really so exciting to be starting this build. Yes the shop is nice and spacious but im running out of room with all the parts coming off the car! It needs some upgrades though, no electricity atm, and want to give the place a good clean out! I swear my dads a hoarder. Yes Perth is extremely isolated! Not many z's left over here at all, I could count on two hands how many times Ive seen one on the road. Makes them more expensive and parts harder to find. But luckily we have you guys in US to buy parts from. Just have to get a mortgage to pay for the shipping costs! look forward to using all the knowledge and expertise from my fellow members
  30. AMPCO was/is a majority Nissan-owned affiliate company, making parts for use on Nissan vehicles. Whilst the H2716 'Pop-up' pistons were not OEM on any S30-series Z, they were supplied by Nissan as a service replacement part on Nissan L-series engines. They are not 'aftermarket' or custom.
  31. Update: Found a broken female spade connector om wire to resistor. Renewed it and now I have voltage to resistor....and the car runs nicely...THANKS!!!
  32. Replacement of the Inner and outer Shift boot When I bought the bucket it did not have an inner or an outer shift boot. Replacing the inner shift boot is fairly obvious. There is a rectangular ring that surrounds the boot and holds it in place. The outer boot is soft vinyl, or leather and it slips over the gear stick. Mistake 1: I installed the center console after completing work on the center console area and everything that is involved with that like the vinyl over the trans. tunnel, choke control, fuse box lid, indicators, radio etc. It turns out to install the outer shift boot you must remove the center console so that you can press the spring clips onto the underside of the center console, seems obvious now, and it would be exceptionally obvious if I had removed the previous outer shift boot. I did not think this was going to be a particularly difficult task. I recall seeing someone hammer the clips into place to hold the boot to the backside lip of the boot hole in the center console. This proved to be way too scary for me. My center console is in pretty good shape but I suspect it is 40+ year old plastic. The new leather boot is thick and the new clips are very tight. One blow with the mallet and I put the bludgeon down and started typing. There must be a secret that I was unaware of and if I find the decoder ring or learn the secret hand shake the leather boot will be installed on the clips, it will be tight, the center console WILL NOT crack and this minor nightmare will be over. Unfortunately, a search of the forum and the internet did not provide much in the way of guidance or tips. So this post is NOT for those of you that have been successful in the past and did not think it would be valuable to document the process because it was such an easy project. I was not having much luck draping the material over the console and hammering or squeezing the clip over the boot onto the console. It seems insignificant and it may be so, but putting the leather inside the clip and then putting the clip on top of the edge of the console made a big difference, for me. It took me a while but it finally came to me. Hammering was too scary, pushing the clip into place seemed impossible. So I went to my second most popular GOTO tool. The first being the mallet and the second being a pair of vise grips. I slowly and carefully squeezed the clip over the console lip. It was easy. I cant explain why it took me so long to figure it out. Now that it is completed my memory of the task was that it was easy. I feel a bit silly posting this, but hopefully the next person to replace their outer shift boot will not have to think twice about how to go about it. One more thing. I read that you only need 6 clips. In my opinion you would be better off with eight. There is no way to get a clip over the seam and if you did the clip would be expanded to the point that I doubt it would hold very well. Below are some photos that may be useful . By the way the console did not crack -----yet!
  33. Gentlemen, thank you for the advice. I changed to the AC Delco this morning and within A 15 mile test drive I can tell an enormous difference! I would agree that the synchros are probably somewhat worn add that to a poor gear oil choice and it equaled a bad grind. I feel like I’m good for now but I’ll probably dive into the transmission over the winter. I read somewhere that the earlier transmissions had “Porsche” type synchros? Is that not the case?
  34. I recently acquired a 1970 240Z #00664. The car is all original condition with a documented 74k on odometer. The car has sat for 20 years and unfortunately the frame rail is rusted through(Assuming from the battery tray) I am looking for some advice on how to handle the frame rail. Should I find a donor car and cut the rail out and weld the new one in or should I look at some aftermarket frame rail replacements? I would like to keep this car as a survivor car(Still has the green distributor cap) but looking for advice on the right route to take.
  35. Found this about a Nissan trademark. https://www.motor1.com/news/405136/new-nissan-z-logos/
  36. My favorite “in between the Nismo and Airtex” price point and functionality is the Facet FEP60SV or 477060E. Same form factor as the Original and Nismo, internal easy to change filter too. The best price is actually from aircraftspruce.com or or .ca Installed several for friends and myself, never had one fail. My two cents for the day
  37. This is what I didn't know....Those areas are definitly not the same as a 240! The original metal is there it is just covered up with other metal I can only assume was changed for some sort of crash rating law changes in 74-75? Of course the radiator support vertical panel is wildly different to go around all that mess. It is such a bonehead move on my part to spend so much time, money and effort trying to keep this thing as original as possible and restore this car back to normal. I really just picked the wrong car from the start. It looked good but I didn't know what I was looking at and the crap body work from the previous owners covered up a lot of problems. The interior was also in such good shape that I thought it was a good platform to start with. I'm sure people have done more with less and maybe its not so bad but the thought of me having cut a 260 front off and put on this car makes me want to throw up a little now! In hindsight I should have bought a better car but whats done is done and I aint starting over!
  38. Try pushing a WD-40 straw down the overflow bung to see if the float is stuck. You should be able to push down then see the straw rise back up slowly. The fuel valve could be stuck open letting fuel continuously flow through. Good luck!
  39. Some more progress photos. Slow progress but we finally got some high build primer on the hood and doors tonight. The plan was to have color on by end of the month but looks like it will be a week or so behind! Getting there!
  40. Well, I retired last month, so I finally had some time to build a work bench. I found a decent steel top, that was 8' x 3", which I ended up getting for free. Used 4"x4"'s for the uprights and 2"x4"s to tie it all together. Used 3/4" plywood for the shelf. I made the bench extra high so that I don't have to bend over to work on stuff. Also put it on casters so that I could keep flexibility in the shop configuration. I also picked up a really nice tire rack, so I don't have stacks of tires all over the place anymore. I will be getting the heater put in in the next few weeks. The lift is planned for the spring. That will about take care of building the shop. Now I need to find a new car project to work on!!!
  41. Original tubes thread?
  42. I didn’t realise pornography was allowed on this site!!!!
  43. If you're looking to spend some cash on a full kit with Japanese stainless fit and finish, I highly recommend the Fujitsubo twin pipe setup from RHDJapan.
  44. Well, Peter Brock is an engineer and you argue with an engineer at your own peril. So if he says don’t do one without the other, you should listen. Pic of my front BRE for fun... it’s glassed to the valance. I have the original design rear, also glassed on.
  45. Now clearly I have nothing to say about lifetime of the repair. That will be seen. I have another aluminum rad from my 510 that was damaged by galvanic action. I had the electric fans grounded to the rad body, which I assumed lead to the problem. I think we discussed this before. A small portion of the bottom tank right beside the base of a few fins, like 2 inches long, 1/4 wide now leaks right through the fabric of the aluminum. You could put some water in, pressure it up with air and watch the water seep through the “solid” tank. Pretty cool if it weren’t so sad. Didn’t know how to repair that before, but now I do. Coat it with a thin film of this stuff. As with most things, if you are brave enough to try this, the repair area must be surgically clean before application. Their instructions to lightly sandblast is a great way to accomplish this. At the very least degrease then scrub with a stainless steel brush.
  46. Ok, what I think the issue is that the top cap is installed at the factory 90 degrees wrong, The internal center rib on the cap MUST be aligned with the mating center rib between the two check valves. Having the cap on with the ribs crossed allows flow to sneak through that upper diaphragm. This was the case with the one I looked at today. Turned the cap 90 and put it back on, and boom. Perfectly functioning pump. I wanted others with failed pumps to take the top off and see if the factory has the ribs aligned or crossed. My guess is that from the factory, the diaphragm is sticky enough in some way to limit the leak, but eventually and quickly the dam bursts and that’s it No more suction. At least that’s today’s theory. I need someone else to find the same flaw. Secretly I ordered three more GMB pumps from RockAuto today (can’t beat $17.83 CAD each!) to see if any or all have the flaw. Is it random or is the assembly line guy/robot slapping them together. however they like?

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