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Hello everyone, Just added the 2025 400z to my garage and wanted to share some cool pics next to my 1973 240z (which I have owned for 20yrs). With 50yrs of Datsun/Nissan Technology between both cars, there still is the purest of styling and lines that's the signature of the "Z's" that is very much recognizable. Anyway .. hope you all enjoy a few of the pics. Many thanks , Mark

Went on my first road trip of the year with my BC Z club friends. About a dozen of us left from the Vancouver area, I joined from Chilliwack and we made our way to the BC Okanagan. Our original plan was to take the Coquihalla Highway to Kelowna, but a large sinkhole closed that route. We ended up taking the more scenic Hope-Princton Highway. For me it was a 436 mile (700km) return trip. My1970 Zed performed flawlessly, even in high mountain terrain and temperatures in the mid 30's C, (93 F), Our first stop was in Princton, for fuel, and to meet up with a few more Z club members. Here's a pic of a few of us in Princton. Our end destination was Kelowna, where Kelowna Nissan generously us hosted for a welcome event. They put on a great BBQ and offered up some Nissan swag. With other club members that met up with us along the way, there was close to twenty Zeds. The Zed to the left of me is fellow forum member @Chickenman, with his 1976 280Z. Thanks Richard, for the "way home" route ideas. The next morning, quite a few had decided to stay an extra day and enjoy the awesome wineries in the surrounding area. I and others, make the trek back, with most taking the faster, more direct Coquihalla route, as sink hole repairs had been made. I like to take the road less travelled, so I did a solo drive on a longer but more scenic route. This route included highway 5A from Merritt to Princton, that runs beside a seemingly endless series of beautiful lakes. Another bonus was that I was almost the only car on the road, with that route. 🙂 All in all, it was a great weekend. I'm looking forward to the next road trip.😎

I was able to get everything back together on the car yesterday. The new yoke (with a new bushing in the back of the transmission) was a very snug fit. After double checking I torqued everything, I was able to take the car on a test drive. What a big difference! I got up to about 80 on some interstate and the severe vibration, which previously could be felt with a hand on the transmission tunnel, and seen in the blurring rear view mirror, was gone. Now, I can get back to the small list of things that I have to do to finish this car: install inside rear tail light trim panel install front right kick panel clean and glue in tool compartment liners repaint tail light trim panels (for better color match) install NOS glove box hinge/inside panel install rear hatch trim panel repair and install factory radio, or install guts of a new radio in the old radio case

Guess I'll put it here as this is, at least to this old buzzard, the path of least resistance After almost 190,000 miles and a bit of bearing noise I decided to give the 5 speed in my 78 280 the business and @ the same time address all of the related issues. At the risk of glazing the eyes of my audience I promise to be brief. I had the rear engine plate powder coated - yes, I know it was clear zinc plated from the factory but I wanted to see what my very excellent powder coater could do and the results are very satisfactory - removed 4 pounds from the stock 24 pound flywheel, had the now lightened flywheel balanced along with a new pressure plate, replaced the rear engine seal, clutch assy - used the Exedy set for probably the 100th + time in my career - flywheel and pressure plate fasteners, ALL of the trans bearings, 2nd and 3rd gear syncros, seals and gasket and had all of the related fasteners, etc. zinc replated. This past Sat I drove the 350 mile round trip to Import Carlisle - touched 100 MPH for a couple of seconds - without a hint of concern. I got those trans parts I could from Nissan - yes, I know there are some cheaper alternatives but I like the guys at my fav dealer. Those bearings that are NLA from Nissan I got from a company in Japan, Amayma. They, Amayma, provide excellent service and excellent prices for parts in the original Nissan packaging. Way back in 1971 the dealer I was working for sent me to Datsun trans school. The school held @ Datsun eastern headquarters in Secaucus, NJ. The dealer provided me with a NEW, just off the boat, 510 2 door for transportation. Yes, a new 510 2 door was capable of an indicated 100+. We were provided lunch at what was, I'm confident, a mob owned restaurant. Our instructor told us we could order ANYTHING on the menu but if we wanted lobster we had to give one day notice. Those were the days.

So cool! Fun build and I love following along. Gosh I hate facebook compared to forums.

Hi Zed…..No, Chuck’s Frame Shop is a restoration shop…..mostly Porsches. He did two of my cars….both took two years. He, in my opinion is the absolute best…..no corners ever cut. I also use him for other items like spoilers…front and rear and he took the side panel strip off my silver 73 and matched the original paint to perfection. I don’t know the seller, but the owner is a good friend and never lets price get in the way of a great restoration. Here are a couple Chuck did for me.

They look like GOLDTOE Men's 656S Cotton Crew Athletic Socks, probably from Amazon or Costco.

Very nostalgic for me. Back in 1995 I was asked to accompany a couple of Japanese motoring journalists to the Le Mans 24hrs race to assist in press coverage of NISMO's GTR-LMs and their participation in the race for Club Le Mans. We had pit access, press room access, full catering and hospitality. A big contrast to my first visit to the LM24hrs in 1970 when I only ate frites and crepes and managed to catch just a few hours sleep whilst soaked through, laying on newspapers by the side of the track...!

Today, I was able to get the transmission back into the car. Because I am one-handed at the moment, I purchased a transmission jack, and I enlisted the help of a friend. This thing is quite the beast - 1000 lb. capacity and it has two telescoping lifting sections (rods). It cost more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't force myself to buy a cheap, garbage version. I guess as I get older, I'm going to need more assistance for jobs like this one. So, this is a nice thing to have available. I should be able to finish putting the rest back together and take the car for a test drive tomorrow.

Here are some pics showing exactly what areas I had the paint protection film applied to, in some of the pics you have to squint to see it. It actually goes 21" up the hood, which makes it about 5" past the headlight scoops where it goes over the fenders. I'm ready for my first road trip of the year, in two weeks. My Zed club is doing a weekend run to Kelowna and surrounding towns in the Okanagan. 😎

Here's another great S30.world article, this time focusing on the development of the 'Euro' spec Datsun 240Z, exploring the circumstances which necessitated its creation and the people behind it. It includes some - precious! - original hand-written development note documents which we are privileged to have access to after all this time, thanks to our fellow member @kats Very nicely put together and written up by another of our fellow members here Nils @JDMjunkies.ch Tip of the hat to Florian at S30.world too. This is a topic not often acknowledged let alone discussed, and yet it is a fascinating window into a significant part of the S30-series Z's family tree. Recommended reading: https://s30.world/articles/european-spec-datsun-240z

Hey @HS30-H, thanks for sharing! Big thanks go out to @kats. Without all of his relentless research, none of my article would have been possible. I hope you all enjoy the read. It's really a topic often overlooked in my opinion, as these cars are quite special.

Gang - I'm also in a classic British car restoration forum and they had a really cool thread idea that I wanted to bring here: Did you buy your Datsun brand new and you still own it to this day? If so, please post the oldest photo of you & your car in this thread, and maybe write a little story about what prompted you to buy it at the time! * Also welcome in this thread are stories & photos from Z owners where another family member (parent, grandparent, etc) bought the car new and it has stayed in the family until present day Looking forward to reading your story! I know @jfa.series1 has one!

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

You've got to be kidding!!! Five minutes after wearing that, my wrist would look like this:

What a fantastic shot! That could be a poster.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I changed the ground distribution scheme to add the dedicated ground strap directly from the battery terminal to the firewall, and also labeled the ground connections that are through the engine metal. Hope this helps depict how the car is actually wired. I also changed one of the wire colors leading to the fog light switch. Might only matter to people in other parts of the world who have fog lights. <V8.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 8.0.pdf

Nissan were caught out by changes to motor vehicle 'Construction & Use' regulations with regard to lighting for 1971-up in several European markets. Height from road level was particularly difficult to solve. The regulations even required changes to the illumination of the rear license plate. Of course such regulations applied to NEW cars and many private owners took the opportunity to move these aesthetically unpleasant front turn signals to a position UNDER the front bumper, or - even better - to revert to the configuration that the gods originally intended... A legacy of precedence. You may have heard of Mr James Watt? He found it necessary to use a unit of measurement in order to compare the power of steam engines to that of working horses. Of course he used the IMPERIAL system as METRIC horsepower didn't exist at that point, the Industrial Revolution not being a Continental phenomenon... You may also have heard of Sir Isaac NEWTON? That's him in your Nm measurement. (Posted from The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, a small place off the coast of mainland Europe which used to rule much of the world for a while... LOL)

Okay, it’s been a minute so this post will be all over the place… I’m going to start with baby steps that feel like giant steps. I was able to install the left side headlight bucket. It seems small, but I hadn’t been able to get to all of the weatherstripping that goes under the fender so I put it off. This was the first time I’d seen it together (on one side) since it came back from the painter. I found there was a sizable gap between the bucket and the fiberglass air dam and I didn’t know how far the dam was going to flex. It ended up working out when I got the blinkers on, but it’s not a crisp clean fit. More on that later. ••• I didn’t do a great job documenting this, but I did a complete refurb of my marker lights and turn signals, inside and out. Left side is before, right side is stage 2 of the 3 step polish. The left front TS and three of the marker lights were pretty beat up. The white plastic was nearly brown inside and the mirror of the fronts and metal housings of the marker lights were all rusted. I stripped these pieces and painted the metal parts with highly reflective silver spray paint. The plastic housing I sprayed white inside and left the outside raw, painting the mirror the same as the marker lights housings. The lenses were sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper, then up through 5,000 grit, and finally polished with Novus plastic polish. Surprisingly, I was able to reuse all of the OEM rubber parts. They just needed scrubbing with a green scotch bright pad. I decided to replace all of the hardware with stainless bolts instead of sheet metal screws because the right rear screws are uncomfortably close to the fuel vapor hoses. I wasn’t able to get JIS screws quickly enough so I just went with generic M5 cap head bolts, with fender washers and lock nuts on the inside. The ones in back got rubber caps on the bolts, too, just to be safe. All of the wiring and connectors for these were replaced. The OEM sockets and rubber boots were refurbished. I ran out of bullet connectors so I used Yamaha sealed connectors for the front marker lights. I’m a bit bummed that the rubber covers from Vintage Connectors for the turn signals are so short. I’m wondering if I need to do something like wrap them in tape to keep the water out. The bulbs are color matched LEDs from Super Bright LEDs, which I think look nicer than using white ones under the colored lenses. The color is much richer while still being… uh, super bright. The gaps around the air dam closed up a bit after I got all of the hardware on, but the curves of each piece (headlight bucket, air dam, and blinker housing) don’t match, which is irritating. I’m hoping it will disappear once the bumper is on. ••• I FINALLY finished my throttle cable setup. I looked at a bunch of off the shelf options and a few specifically for Z cars, but the prices and not quite being what I wanted pushed me into making my own. The two challenging pieces were the bulkhead and the bracket. I made the bulkhead out of a stainless steel drain plug that a friend drilled out and tapped for me on his lathe. We broke a tap and probably dulled a second to the point of not being usable any more. If I did it again I would use aluminum. It’s held on with an M18 nut and has the cable adjuster for a triumph motorcycle brake lever screwed into it for the cable sleeve. That’s probably also unnecessary as I could have made the bulkhead so it acted as the cable sleeve seat on its own. The bracket was another Send Cut Send job. I had to wait until everything else was figured out to design and order it, but I made four versions with the hole for the throttle cable adjuster at various heights. I opted for the second tallest, but I’ll change it if this ends up feeling wrong. I’m definitely going to have to ad a bend along the long edge to reduce flexing. I went with a progressive cam from @duffymahoney and had to make sure there is no interference when all said and done. The shortest bracket looked the best but was uncomfortably close to the cam at full throttle. All of the cable bits and pieces I got from Venhill Engineering for a song. The reason there are two adjusters in the photo is so the bracket can also hold the choke cable, which I am repurposing to operate the starter valves on the Mikunis. I doubt I’ll ever use them but I don’t like having inoperable parts in the car. The cable is affixed to the ball socket by a m5 lamp bolt that was decapitated, crimped to the cable, rethreaded, and soldered. So yeah, the throttle half of this project is done for now. I just need to change the screw holding the cable to the cam to be a set crew, cut the excess cable, and cap it off so it won’t fray. The bracket will definitely need to be stiffer, but that’s for later. ••• Unfortunately I keep forgetting to take pictures, but I can show you how I ran the AC drain so it minimizes the size of the lump when I install the transmission hump upholstery. The Vintage Air evaporator came with a black hose, but I swapped it out for some hose with a thicker side wall, which should keep it from compressing under the upholstery and inhibiting the flow of condensation. A nozzle connects to the hose with a 1/2” barbed splice fitting. The black piece is from sun roof drains on GM and other vehicles and its X-shaped aperture should create a Venturi effect when mounted perpendicular to air flow to pull water out and prevent anything from traveling back up the hose. Pretty generic and available on Amazon for a few bucks. I cut the insulation to make a channel for the hose to rest in. A 5/8” hole and some RTV to make sure it doesn’t pop out and I’m good to go. I also finished the passenger side door window and the rest of the interior firewall work the same day. Now to check the refrigerant plumbing for air leaks. 👍🏻 ••• After I was finally able to get all of the firewall work done, I put the dash in and plugged it all together. Nothing major to report since I’ve discussed the details in previous posts. This time I took more care to tuck the wiring away nicely. The few loose ends are wire for a set of foot well lights that are switched at the doors, a feed for a USB plug I intend to put in the center console, and the power/ground and control wires for the evaporator. The biggest challenge was getting it back in with the air ducts installed. This corrugated tubing from Vintage Air is nice but it’s not flattened/ovular like the OEM stuff so it requires some persuading. I still think it’s better, though. It’s tough to see in the center but it’s really well fit to the evaporator without any clamps, which keeps it clean and free of things to chafe of the hose or wiring looms. I’m hoping a harness cover will clean up the mess around the relays, but I’m going to zip tie some of this up tight before any cowls or covers go on. ••• And here it’s starting to feel like a car! Or, at least I am staring to get some storage space back. 🤣 I’m really pleased with how the Vintage Dashes dashboard looks. The glove box door needs adjusting, but after hitting the finisher with some Landau Black SEM Color Coat it all came together. It seems the internet was correct about that being the right color. I’d heard these aftermarket windshield gaskets leave a bit to be desired compared to OEM, and it’s true, but I think you can finesse it into shape. The gaps in the corners were really bad until I put the steel trim in. That stretched them out a bit, but it’s not perfect. I’ll let it settle for a while and then might just pump the gaps full of weather strip adhesive until it’s filled in. Speaking of steel trim, that’s a fun chore. 🙄 ••• My spare tire cover was FILTHY. Luckily it cleaned up well and didn’t pucker or warp. The orange flecks in the fiber board are a nice touch. ••• Lights! No before pictures but here’s everything put together. I used the same process on the lenses as the blinkers. The housings were scrubbed and then wiped lightly with acetone to get the last of the adhesive off. Thankfully I didn’t need to recondition the mirrors. The center lug on the replacement chrome trim is too short to function as the only fastener holding everything together. I used a M5 threaded socket left over from installing the blinkers along with a rubber washer. It worked fabulously, but I think it would be really easy to screw up if over tightened. No wiring yet. I just wanted to close up the cabin for the next step. ••• Looking clean figuratively and literally. I picked up the basic carpet set from Newark Auto in black 80/20 loop. It’s really nicely made, but I don’t think it’s meant to go with an insulation kit like the one I have. There are a few places where it would have fit better if there was no insulation, and there are a few places where it is just straight up wrong. Overall give it a 89 or 91 out of 100. Worth it but could be improved. I’ll be using the vinyl kit from MSA on the sides. I’m going to cross my fingers and hope my original interior pieces clean up nicely. I just put them straight into storage without unpacking them when I bought the car, so who knows what shape their in. If they suck I’ll be new replacements. But yeah, the car is starting to feel like a car.

I made it back into the shop again, finally. I got a batch of clear zinc back from the platers and went through and reworked some door latches. I used the kits that Steve Nixon sells for the rubber bits inside the latch. I also bought a couple of spring assortments because one of the latches was missing the return spring Interestingly I have two different styles of latch. I have the style with the coiled return spring and then I have one latch that has the two flat springs in it. The one with two flat springs has a small notch on either side of the latch arm slot. Steve's rubber parts are designed for this style of lock. On the other locks I had to take a little rubber out of the semi circular pieces to make them fit properly and I glued them in place with some black super glue There are also three squarish rubber pieces that fit over the ends of the arms to cushion them The hardest ones to get on are the one that go on the door striker. There is very little little clearance to get the one side in Here are my two styles side by side. Maybe someone else can add some info on when these parts changed? Even the flat spring on the latch pawl is a different design between the two... I also put the dovetail on the edges of the doors and the spring loaded door poppers into the door jambs. Minimal progress but something. Now that I have the latches back, I can work on assembling the rest of the doors and glass

I thought I posted this up already but I didn't see them over the last few pages... I had to trim the ears on the R200 diff for a little more clearance on the new SS exhaust This is an untrimmed side Trimmed I made a bracket to connect to the mid span support on the top of the new exhaust. It will attached under the diff arrestor strap nut Template Under the car Finished

Was on a 3 day layover in Nagoya, and visited the Toyota Auto Museum. Fantastic. The 432 was great, but the show was stolen by the 2000GT. So many great cars there. Another notable was a 42 KdF Beetle, and from the description the earliest Datsun.

This is what is so fantastic about this site and the rare types of parts that are needed and pretty much unavailable to purchase new. Thanks to everyone for helping to keep these Ladies on the road!

Thanks Paul and Mike.... BTW.... I have been on this site for 18yrs since owning my 1973 240z, and it's been so helpful in allowing me to bring it up to reliable standards while preserving the authentic look. This is an awesome website!!

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

Huge thanks to Charles for coming over and helping me get the tank back in. It feels indescribably good for her to run under her own power with a complete fuel system. I'll circle back to my fuel tank restoration thread with an update. But in brief: cut tank open, bead blast clean, drill spot welds for screen canister, cut suction pipe to access screen, remove screen, Red Kote everything, reassemble, slosh more Red Kote around seam, bead blast outside, paint. Easy, lol. Tank restoration thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68742-efi-fuel-tank-restoration/?&_rid=30865

So we worked on the 280z some more yesterday. Put the restored tank back in it and added some fuel. Fuel pressure came up after cranking but wouldn't come up in the "On" position. Cranked up first time. Bolted some wheels on and went for a quick spin!! 20250613_194943.mp4Don't know how to add a video...??

I think both those GMBs are aftermarket and agree that an Aisin with the cast iron impeller will be as close to OE that you'll find today unless you can find one using the part number on this box.

I try and not get too distracted by this type of genre of collecting, but this was new, and cheap, and I had other parts in Japan waiting for shipment, so... What is great, is the spout pivots at the bottom, thus changing the spout angle, aiding pouring. Made of metal, I don't know its age, but I suspect more towards the 1960's rather than the plastic 1970's... Enjoy

The integral lower turn signals are too low to meet regs at the time. So the left and right valance have impressions but no holes and the signals are moved to the bumper

I never had any pushback and I have friends getting work done there now.

So I received my chrome work today. Most of it looks pretty good. I have a few things I'll ask about. Its expensive work! I have no idea how I ended up with four drivers and two passenger?? Two ash trays 2 sets of visor brackets & three cig lighter rings Four buttons for hatch locks and 2 gas doors I need some help ASAP! Is this a Datsun part?? I'm thinking no...

The lock core has its own date code. Below on the left is year 0 (1970), month 3. On the right is year 9 (1969), month 7. The lock assembly also has its date code. This one is Left, year 0 (1970), month 4, day 16 (I think). This pic is the assembly for the 0-3 lock core above. Just for grins, here is the lock assembly for the 9-7 core above, note the difference in the slot as you noted on one of yours.

I don't know if it's the ONLY reason for it's existence (seems unlikely), but that is where they printed the identifying markings:

I worked on Cody's car some Friday Hung the header, intake manifold and carbs The header is a pretty tight fit! I still need to come up with a way to hold the parking brake cable over Got the radiator in and have the alternator most of the way in

Just for clarification, the transmission info on page 7 has no relevance to this thread. We will use the original stock transmission for this build. Thanks for the info on the antenna. I added a couple pics for reference. I do not think it is an antenna ground wire as it is very long. It extends approximately 20" beyond the antenna power wires. Also, it breaks out at the junction of the speaker wires and left signal lamp. I can confirm that the wire is black, so most likely a ground. It also has a heavy black shielding over it, so maybe it was intended to pass through the body to something near the fuel tank. Interesting. Also added a pic showing the 10/69 date of the harness. Added a pic of the rear break springs installed just for the Captain 😊 I rebuilt the front brake calipers with new seal rubber, retainers and pads. I cleaned them up first and then hit them with a clear coat to prevent future rust. (Notice the ones on the current 1970 BAT car). I then installed them on the front stuts so they will be ready to install once the body shows up. The body shop work is progressing, always the long pole. The passenger side rear quarter panel has been welded in place. Right front section behind fender has also been replaced, battery tray removed and holes plugged on right fender that once supported the aftermarket AC. The rear hatch has been installed and the flanges that attach to the hinges have been welded up. Next to be installed will be the lower rear panel. And, once the rotisserie is free, the new floor panels will be installed.

Havent seen this one posted here yet: Bring a Trailer1970 Datsun 240Z Series IBid for the chance to own a 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #194,522.

I collected a few parts again, recently. Some stuff which is required to complete the car: First of all, one of those beautifully crafted S30.world reproduction fuel tanks and tank insulation rubbers. I sold mine at the recent japanclassic show, so I had to get a new one for my project. Secondly, I got a NOS euro spec front lower center valance (with the additional installation holes for the euro front spoiler): This means i can finally replace the crappy old one with the one that actually belongs there. Huge thanks to Alan for helping me with this! Then I got one of those original printed Datsun competition parts catalogues. I already have the Japanese versions and had this one digitally, but I always prefer to have the original printed stuff. For those who don't know the competition parts catalogue, it's basically a "sports option" and racing parts catalogue by Nissan themselves: I also got another issue of the "Nissan Star" magazine. It was a Swiss Datsun / Nissan customer magazine, which always has cool insights at how Nissan (Switzerland) operated back in the days. I also randomly came across this "Nissan 50th anniversary" catalogue from Switzerland. It's completely unrelated to my project, but since I have all the original "50th anniversary" badges, I thought it would be cool to have the fitting catalogue to it with the same logo on the front. Things are a bit crazy at work at the moment, so progress is slow, but I hope to jump back in the project soon. I made a major decision to have the car completed by some professionals, otherwise the project will drag on for another decade. But I still need to complete some tasks by myself, and more details on that topic soon.

I have had the cheap tranny jack for years and I hate it. The double rods are nice. Buy once, cry once. you made the right call!

Missed 2 car shows yesterday because of rain but made up for it today as did others. A lot of classics out around here on a beautiful day. Car ran great! Here's to the rest of the day fellows, it's drinking time, all driving is over. 🍻

NEW PRODUCT!!!! 1970 - 1978 DATSUN 240z 260z 280z Rear Trailing Arms 3/4" Chromoly Heim joints Reinforced Mainshaft at Bushings Tested on 1000hp Drag/Drifter

My 7-73 still has it. It has very sharp edges and I've cut myself on it several times in the past 48 years. Bonzi Lon

I sold my restored 260Z about 3 years ago. It was a labor of love. But I still like front engine sports cars. A Z replacement entered my garage this month. Enjoy your Z's. Dave

@texasz , I've got a used one complete with the bolt if still in need. Bonzi Lon

Thank You!!! I was finally able to source a Bosch plastic housing replacement relay on eBay marketed as a VW part. It arrived on Tuesday, and I installed it today. I knew that was it when I turned the key and heard the hum of fuel pump. Once I added some fresh fuel to the tank, I turned the key, watched the fuel pressure gauge climb up to 36 PSIG, and the L28 started and ran! I do need to still do some troubleshooting and fix the backfiring and high idle, but those seem like much smaller challenges now that I have a running car again. Apologies to my neighbors, I think the whole community heard my hollers of joy and elation when the Z fired up this afternoon! A small victory, but a much-needed win for me today with all that has been going on at work.

Project potential. Maybe restoration. Bring a TrailerNo Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed ProjectBid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed Project at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #193,030.

Our club has a copyright release for the Nissan materials. For the others, you would have to buy the hard copies and digitize them yourself, for your own use. I don't want to get into copyright issues here on our club because I don't want to mess with someone else's investment. It take a lot of time to create and publish a book.

Soccer's a gamble. I felt lucky to have made it through the years with none of the major long-term injuries. I did have to do some PT on a knee. My doctor had been a college athlete and had the "suck it up and take some Advil" attitude. So I went in to weekend warrior mode and tried to tough it out. He sent me to PT when I went back a month later and showed him that the thigh on the injured leg was about 2/3 the size of the good one. The PT shop owner used to do the Cleveland Browns football team. Got me straightend up pretty quick but it still wouldn't bend as far as the other one for about three years. And the tough-it-out doctor was afraid of blood. Later, after the knee, he refused to remove the stitches in my chin because the tails were cut too short (forgot to mention the chin. And the broken collar bone.) and there would be blood if he had to dig them out. I had to go to the drug store and buy some tweezers and pointy scissors to dig them out myself. There was blood. Good times.

I don't think it's an original Nissan hatch seal, as it's sold by the metre. But it sure is better than what I had. It's not a simple seal swap like it would be for the doors. There's 6 interior panels to remove, then the adhesive. Then there's all those push pin clips, oh, I found out where some of those pins are going, I found the mother load. I think I got 14 of them from this one spot with a piece of radiator hose taped to my shop vac and a piece of screen taped over the end.

Yes, a great read and many thanks to @JDMjunkies.ch for putting that together. Great job, as always, to Kats and Alan.