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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/01/2020 in all areas

  1. He’s almost done. I dropped the mirror off this AM. It’ll come home this afternoon. It’s just incredible! IMG_0300.MOV
  2. Dearly Beloved. I find myself explaining over and over again to various Z owners (all Datsun owners really) about the differences in various items and what year range they belong to. I am tired of doing so, and tires of hunting down pictures and URL's of stuff for them, and would just like to point them to a single URL where they can look up the answer to their question. What better place than our beloved CZCC forum, and what a better way to entice new members! Note this fatigue does not apply to the membership here, but mostly to the ones I try to help on that blessed piece of crap FB....... There are just SO many more soles pleading for help there, than here, I cannot but help wanting to draw them all into our little cult, er, I mean "family".... I understand this is a vast and highly detailed area of discussion, but at the very least, I would like have a basic picture library of items, one item type per thread, in a forum group I think would be aptly named "One of these things is not like the Other". For example. pictures of the three basic gas tank types, pictures of the fuel sending units from each, pictures of the three types of seat sliders, pictures of the 240, 260/280 early and late door cards (my personal bane)..... Door internal/regulator glass/frame differences, etc etc. The list is endless. I am blessed with a decent selection of many of these common items and will start this off by taking representative photos of each of the unique items I have. I will apply date ranges, and will love to have clarifications from the peanut gallery (or any fancy nut you claim represents your level of knowledge) to further refine either date application or other clarification on the topic. We will clearly label each as applying to North american, Japanese , European etc product lines, although for the beginning lets stick to the North American stuff. I suggest the new forum be in Car Talk > Z > One of these things is not like the other @mike , please chime in and let me know if you believe there is a better place or organization structure for this. Others let us know if this is something you'd like to see or contribute to.
  3. So, today I did a swap to a stock-color tail light panel on my 1971 240z. I was able to pick up a great restored panel from our classifieds and now I have one of each color. Since my panel was installed with plastic rivets (just for this occasion) it was a 20 minute swap. When I had my car painted yellow, quite a long time ago, I asked the guys to paint the tail light panel the same color as the body. I knew it never looked right, but, it was something I wanted at the time. Now that I'm a bit older, I wanted to see what a stock color would look like. Here's the difference. What do you think?
  4. He sent two more....can’t wait to see it trimmed out!
  5. Call me Pooky. I've been on the site for months now but this is my first post. I am truly indebted to many of you for all of your helpful insights and advice, not to mention encouragement. Back when I was in high school my sister dated a guy that had a silver 280z. I thought it was the coolest car. As I got older and more financially able to take on a restoration I had no doubt what car it would be. This was my '77 280z when I bought it for $4k back in 2011. (I spent too much!) It was drivable, nevertheless I started tearing it apart the very next day. I hit it hard for about two years then bought a cottage at a favorite fishing location and the car fell into an auto cocoon until last fall. I have tons of pictures of the transformation. Thanks to the pandemic I've been laid off for the past month and got it almost road ready. In the original picture it looks pretty good, with the exception of those awful bumpers, but had a lot of cancer in the usual places. With the exception of sand blasting the body, I've done ALL the work myself. Even painted it myself. Thanks Youtube! I'm lousy about keeping track of receipts and bills but I would venture to say that this project has run up to about $15k so far. All I have left to do is get some type of front bumper on it and put in the windshield and hatch glass. I'd also like to get it tuned up by someone who knows these cars. Honestly, I wouldn't know one that runs good from one that runs bad. The second picture is probably in 2012 and the last picture was taken today.
  6. Introducing myself... Tom in Indianapolis. I’ve lived Z cars since high school, when one of my classmates, whose dad was a Datsun dealer, drove one. I’ve been a car collector for over 20 years, with varying tastes: Jaguar, Aston, Corvette, Porsche, McLaren, and a wide variety of Indy 500 pace cars.
  7. Moving along well here. Got the motor and complete drive-line installed. Added some more brake components and a few engine bay parts. Planning on putting in the exhaust and intake manifold assembly tonight. Might even get to install the carbs.
  8. Finished product......Z’s are cool eh? BTW many thanks to Zup for providing the door for my project. We’ve got some really great members.....it must have been a PITA to get it to Richmond.
  9. My set of Z hubcaps arrived earlier today and they are better than I ever expected, being NOS and have their original packing materials!
  10. Finally......Our painter is committed to finish my sculpture this weekend. I’ll take him the trim tomorrow and he should be finished Saturday....fingers crossed!
  11. I inherited a 1972 Datsun 240Z from my father who passed away a few months ago. It was in his possession from...I´m not sure, at least 15 years or so and most of that time it has remained in the same spot (in a sort of garage/shed sitting next to a couple of other older cars) Due to the covid19 situation I have remained at home and haven´t been able to go to my father´s house and do a more complete inspection of the car now that I´ve decided to start working on it. I took some pictures but a need to take it out of where it´s now to clean and inspect it more thoroughly. I can´t tell how many miles it has but in general is in a very good shape, very complete (original engine, matching numbers, etc) and with very little rust from what I could see. I think it´ll make a nice project. I just have to make some decisions and I´d like to share its progress here where I see so many knowledgeable and helpful people sharing the love for such a beautiful piece of car art/technology.
  12. Just received my set of Amco knock off floor mats. I couldn’t be happier...... they are beautiful! FYI Guy
  13. What I use is a home built puller. Well, it doesn't pull , but breaks loose the corrosion between the brass shaft and the tin clock hand. You have to be very careful and not touch the clock face as that will cause damage. If you look at CH-4 photo you will see that the pliers contacts the shaft just below the flange of the hand. Apply a small amount of pressure by squeezing the pliers. Do this again 180 deg from your first contact. What you want to do again is break the corrosion contact between the clock stem and the hand. Once the hand starts to move stop and use your finger nails to remove the clock hand. If you try and do this all in one step you will bend the large flange of the clock hand. Also, I use a soft paper towel that goes around the clock stem so the clock face is protected from finger oil and also protects the face from pliers contact. Let me know if you have any questions.
  14. Some more custom work as I near the end... My rear ABS panels were looking rough. Both had the top sections broken off. One had speaker holes drilled through in front of the power antenna. I couldn’t find reasonable priced replacements so I did the next typical me thing. I repaired them. Using acetone and cut up bits of ABS from donor plastic, I dissolved the scrap into a paint lid and used it as an adhesive/bondo to repair the panels. I also used fibreglas mat as a reinforcer for the long seams. After repairs were made, I sanded the joints and sprayed a texture spray over the repaired panels. The results are good. I lost the original texture but that is minor compared to the condition they were in. What do you think? Chemicals and paint... This pic shows the holes after filling and backing with fibreglas. I didn’t get a pic of the panel before the repair. And after sanding it all down for texture ... And after texture...
  15. Learn to enjoy the noises(s). As soon as you remove one you'll notice another. Coming up: diff howl, 3rd gear whine, rocker ticking, injector noise, mustache bar clunking.
  16. Thanks, Zup. Me: Midwesterner, writer and journalist (IndyCar Series), car collector over 20 years. Started collecting (and still collect) Indianapolis 500 pace cars - actual pace cars (2), track/Festival cars (3), and factory replicas (4). Also a Jag E-Type, an Aston Martin, a McLaren 12C Spider, a 911 Porsche, a DeLorean, a Gremlin, and sundry others. My Z was a lifelong California car, originally purchased in Orange County. A 1971, it’s had a repaint (not bad), and the requisite rebuilds and massages. I’d wanted one since ‘72, so the 48-year wait wasn’t too bad. 😉 Still looking for a few benchmark cars before my “plays with cars” days have passed me by. ~ Tom
  17. Finally time to epoxy prime the engine bay. I had a handful of holes that had to be filled. They were extra holes that were drilled in the bay for the A/C that was added to the car in 1971. After filling and grinding, I spot sanded some areas that had a touch of surface rust forming since I sandblasted the bay a long time ago. I taped up all of the plastic coatings on the wire clips. I will be painting them body color as was done by the factory, but no sense building up a layer of epoxy primer on them now. Very minor pitting in the battery tray. I elected not to remove and sand blast between the tray and the inner fender as it think it will last another 50 years after my work here is complete. 🙂 Sand blasting effort was put into reaching all areas, even inside the front lower box section: Glasurit epoxy primer applied: I will be touching up just a couple of areas with bondo and then spraying with high build primer as is on the rest of the car. Before and After Videos:
  18. Carl Beck

    Clutch Issue

    Your Clutch Disc is most likely rusted and stuck to the flywheel. Put it out of gear and start the engine, warm it up and charge the battery. After its warmed up shut it off. Push the car out on the street, put it in 1st gear and start the engine (with the car in gear). Get it rolling about 15 to 20 mph - push the clutch pedal to the floor, at the same time you give it some gas and pull the Emergency Brake HARD! (to stop the rear wheels from turning - while keeping the engine running). That should break the clutch disc free of the flywheel. Might have to do it a couple times. When it breaks free you'll feel the clutch pedal regain some resistance (feel normal).
  19. Got the manifolds and heat shield on. Started attaching the carbs and balance tube items.
  20. Actually, you weren't "half wrong." There isn't a timer, so you are only 1/4 wrong. 😉 Of course, if the OP could RTFSM, he would discover that there is absolutely no mention of a timer in that circuit. He could even discover how the circuit is wired from the simple break-out included. Perhaps simple reading comprehension is of more use than Roget's.
  21. Glad to hear that I nailed it. Woot. And BTW... From a distance with no meter measurements, I've diagnosed and identified a problem with your car that you have unable to fix yourself, and the reaction is "kudos, you're half wrong". I've identified the problem that has been confusing you to the point where you needed to ask for help, and your reaction is to make sure that I know I wasn't 100% correct when I said "Your defogger indicator bulb IS burned out" because the REAL story is "Your defogger bulb is not installed". Well maybe it's just me, but that kind of response makes it difficult to want to help in the future. Just like last time with your other thread. So feel free to now spend a whole bunch of words* telling me why my reaction is wrong. Or just don't. And keep it in mind for the future instead. * A whoooooolle bunch. And make sure you include one or two words that make mere mortals reach for their dictionary because they don't have as awesome as a vocabulary as you do.
  22. I got in a tranny fiasco on Bourbon Street a few years ago. I've never been in a fight but that was the closest so far. They are mean.
  23. Some more photos I took of the wall hanging. It's amazing and I am glad it was done in the best color ever ;)
  24. Here’s a good comparison of the old paint code 240 and the new DeBeers water based E2335 BRG. I think I nailed it. Close to the original colour but a lot more metallic.
  25. Be careful check your stands https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-56371_61196_61197.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. It’s little too over the top to suit my tastes, but I’m just an old fart. 🙃
  27. She's just trying to get into your pants.
  28. I have a very unhealthy AFR fetish! I put this together based on quite a lot of hours of reading / internetting / speaking with engine builders / tuners and trackside mechanics at classic races. Heads up: 14.7 as correctly stated above is the ideal mix to get a full burn and is good as your idle baseline afr. There are of course many situations that you want to be either side of it. With modern fuels, the consensus in research papers / controlled experiments is that optimum power is produced between 12.5 - 12.8. Aim for this across the range at WOT. On a side note, some modern engines prefer just north of 13 due to head designs etc. If you are planning on hooning it at max revs in 4th on the long straight of a race track, racers typically aim for closer to 11.5 as the richer mix has a cooling effect on the engine (but without going into details, it does put a stress on it too). My L28 AFR sits doggedly between 12.2-12.9 from 3.6K to the 6.5K rpm limit and pulls like a train. I have ran it at 11.5-12 and the engine is marginally but noticeably keener on the transition from part throttle to WOT; however the power difference is difficult to discern without a rolling road. I find anything 11 or below loses power / makes the engine bog down. On the cruise you ideally want to be north of 14.7 if you have a working vacuum advance. Ideally 15.5-16ish. This makes for a slightly hotter cruise but will give you way better fuel economy. Modern cars can tolerate HUGE timing (c. 60 degrees) and with super high pressure common rail injection / better atomisation run even leaner. Anything north of 17 on the overrun will give you fun pops and crackles on the tail pipe at around 3k-4K rpm. My L26 running a little lean once shot out a 2 foot flame out the back when coming off the power at 6k rpm. Scared the b’jeesus out of me but my friend following thought it was mighty impressive! ;) The other thing you will be surprised by is just how much a mere 0.5 difference on the AFR can affect your fuel economy and richness of the sweet aroma of your exhaust. Whatever you do, don’t run your engine lean on WOT as it does horrible things to your exhaust valves and piston crowns. Welcome to the rabbit hole of the AFR gauge - you just took the red pill ;)
  29. My painter just sent these after block sanding....Safari Gold tomorrow.....I hope.
  30. Amazing trunk space though...
  31. And the finished door jamb grommet!
  32. The "P" in BP5ES or BP6ES is an indication of a projected tip. our cars need that to get the spark in the correct location. A B5ES would be shorter overall. The R mentioned above is a resistor. (BPR5ES) Heat range (the number 5 or 6) is the size of the porcelain as opposed to the electrode. Has nothing to do with the overall length of the plug. https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/
  33. Hi all, Just a follow up on my build I had @grannyknot over today helping install the L28 and the install went great despite spending most of the time looking for the correct hardware 🙂 thanks for your patience @grannyknot Looks like I will need to purchase a new pertronix igniter kit as some how the previous owner decided to cut the main wires that feed the igniter.
  34. Lucky it came off easily. I wonder how it would look if you cleaned off the residue and buffed it. You might be able to hold off paint for a while by doing that? You could say it was a custom pin stripe from the PO 😁.
  35. I hate it when that happens - it means I didn’t learn something new. Although I also fear that years of marriage have taught me that it’s better to be wrong even if I am right! [emoji12]
  36. I've done the POR15 gas tank kit a couple times now, just follow the instructions to a T. Clean as you can it then a hair dryer running through the tank for an hour until you are sure the inside of the tank is dry. I had so much left over that I took a brush and gave the outside of the tank a good coat too.
  37. Job done! The Bosch injectors from Motor Man are in. I was waiting on stainless steel holder plates from Z Car Depot which arrived today and with the help of my son we put everything back together in about 90 minutes. Changed the fuel filter as well. Started right up but took about 4 or 5 minutes to run really smoothly. No leaks! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  38. I'm guessing that for about the price of the FAST system you could go with rebuilt SU's from Ztherapy which would work with the big cam for sure.
  39. Ok, Got one of those Diablo blades for the sawzal, and it was off in 10 minutes. I spent way to much time hammering and soaking..... Thanks for the advice. Now I can proceed.......
  40. I've attached a word doc you might get a kick out of if you've dealt with Lucas Electrics on British cars. A TREATISE ON THE IMPORTANCE OF SMOKE BY JOSEPH LUCAS.doc
  41. zKars

    what is this interior

    Yup. Stock 2+2 rear end, other than the over rider bar. Interior is someone’s creative upholstery job. I myself prefer a good quilted velour interior. Pink or baby blue.
  42. Yep, fender bulges but nothing else, no fake scoops, no weird character lines, is what I'm hoping for. Make it 'look' light at the very least. My JDM flares give that aggressive wide stance, although yes helps widen the track a bit. And please please keep the 6 spd manual as an option, or no buy here. The current 350/370 clutch take-up, though, is too high and vague, same as was in my G35. That needs improvement.
  43. That looks great! A real barn find too. Knowing it was your Dads is even better. My Dad passed on in January and I'm trying to get an old El Camino running he left me. The nice newer one he left to my brother in law! WTF? I guess he knew the best mechanic when he made that decision. Anxious to see yours out and cleaned up. The interior looks good.
  44. This link looks like a pretty exhaustive list:
  45. @jalexquijanoSitting here sipping my PineSol and Quinine I seem to remember previous trouble with one of those center plugs that I thought you cleared up with a new quality (Bosch?) cap and rotor. You already had new wires and plugs. Is this the same problem cylinder and problem that has come back or is it ongoing?