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  1. I'm trying to pick up myself. What you didn't see was the one behind me. Not as good shape but still a decent car. This one is an automatic early Gen. The current owner owns the Nissan dealer in the area. The car has been stitting in the backlot for about 10 years from what I understand. A friend of mine knows the General Manager, so I am woking through it. Its probably going to b a long process, with much persistence on my part.
  2. As the every day public sees more and more articles about the value of Z cars, the odds of finding a really cheap one goes down exponentially. I am afraid those days are pretty much gone. The definition of a really cheap Z car is changing sort of like the value of a "cheap" ferrari
  3. It's bittersweet to see these vehicles climb in value so rapidly. In some ways it is vindication for all the years I coveted Z Cars when they were marginalized for not being German or lacking V-8 muscle. Now mint examples are out of reach for some and rough examples too problematic to restore with some parts becoming hard to obtain.
  4. I'm pretty sure the black writing on the tags is a painted on stencil. Aggressive cleaning with harsh a substance can remove all the black paint leaving just the stamped numbers. Just a possibility. I learned this when trying to clean some overspray off of one, and found the cleaner I was using was starting to take the writing off as well.
  5. When setting doors, I do it the other way. I get the door on the car, then I set the fenders and get the door aligned well with the fender and "A" pillar. Then I check the rear alignment. The door can be twisted to make the rear edge correct. There are not many options to adjust the door fender alignment. Shim the hinges or shim the fender, but the curvature and the detail line are set. So the door needs to line up with those. The only rear adjustments for the rear of the doors are some minor fore/aft adjustment, some up/down adjustment and depth of closure based on the strike location. My passenger side door is on the car and adjusted currently and you can tell there is no gasket in it. It clunks around with lots of free movement. If you don't have that, then the gasket will never work.
  6. Thank you! I wouldn't have seen the t-shirts had I not seen your Hahaha. Those are funny.
  7. Fantastic work! That 903 paint job is just beautiful. 903 was the original color of my car. You just don't see many in that color around.
  8. Don't worry about the 2-3 psi change. That is actually good, the engine is running better now and pulling more vacuum. The higher intake vacuum drops the fuel pressure in the rail because the intake manifold is pulling fuel out. It's working like it should.
  9. A lot of stuff is still available. You need to stop thinking Datsun and look for Bosch components. For the TPS 3-pin plug google "Bosch Connector Plug Kit 1237000039". Should be able to find it for $10. I found a supplier her for €9.95. The 7-pin is available via Motorsports. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b17/11-3050 Or Bosch LK-7 connector for the 3 Channel Ignition Module https://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=592 Thermotime & temp sensor: I tried the temp sensor cable kit like from Banzai (I purchased it through my Nissan dealer last year P/N: 24079-U8700), but not happy with it. Very hard to remove the connector once you push it on. Replaced them with the press release variety from e-bay.makes it a lot easier for testing. Cheers
  10. the 240z is basically a tin can on wheels compared to your pt cruiser. no power steering, rides and steers like an old truck. noisy on the highway, rattles on the street. you will find that until you drop the tail lights replace the seals, replace the lift gate seals ( on the lift itself and the body ) replace the seals around the side marker lights, that everytime you drive with the windows down, exhaust gas is gonna come in the cabin. the hoses for the charcoal cansister and gas fume recover system are most likely gonna need to be replaced. you will get wiffs of raw gas and wonder where it's coming from. as a pt cruiser driver, you are unfamilar with a choke and carbs along with a low voltage ignition system. on a cold morning, you can not hop in a 240z turn the key and expect to jump on it to get into traffic. it needs to be warmed up a bit, the choke set. the wipers and heater do not work as well as your pt cruiser. if you drive for any distance with the high beams on, most likely a fuse is gonna blow. there are often wiring issues under the dash and melted fuse boxes. for what ever reason the nissan engineers ( datsun ) decided to cheap out and ran all the car's electrics through the amp meter. they used a rivetted fuse holder. resistance at the fuse box causes the wiring to over heat. being as they were trying to keep the car light and cheap, little attention was paid to rust proofing. they also used a flap as a seal over the front of the area of the doors where they close under the fenders. when that flap dries out, water runs into the cabin. that water causes the floors to rust out. drain holes plug on the bottoms of the front fenders, they rust out below the 240z script. water and dirt get into the rocker panels below the doors, the rocker panels rust. some how water gets into the dog leg area of rear fenders directly behind the doors. rust there as well. where the lift gate meets the flat panel of the body where the latch is located, that flat panel rusts. datsun/nissan had a tray with a drain hose that went under the battery. most back yard mechanics tossed that tray and set the battery directly on the shelf. acid from battery ate holes in the shelf as well as the firewall below it ( sometimes even melted the wiring harness running on the frame rails ) speaking of frame rails, they are another place to look for rust. california cars are not exempt from these rust problems. they just take longer to show up here. brakes on the 240z are no where as good as the brakes on your pt cruiser. brakes on my 86 nissan pick up are better than the brakes on the 240z. headlights dim when you turn the heater fan on. if previous owners were door slammers , you may find the doors pop open as the metal latches on the body need to be replaced as well as the white plastic guides that line the doors up to the latches. car will wander if the bushings on the rack and pinion steering system are worn or loose. the wipers and blinkers won't work if the contacts in the switch stalks are worn out. most of the ignition locks are worn out and just about any 2 sided key will turn the lock, or the lock won't turn at all and the anti theft bolt won't move to release the steering. rear brake wheel cylinders are getting harder and harder to get and if someone hosed up the install, the rear brake shoes will drag on the drums. some times locking up the rear brakes. the heater valve is in a poor location, if the coolant isn't every couple years, acid builds up and eats through the valve, causing coolant to leak into the cabin. oh back to door slammers, the guide and the window regulator may get knocked off the rack and the plastic roller inside the door that braces the window may get bent or broken. door glass rolls up or down crooked or is difficult to roll up or down. in the front, below the windshield is a cowl cover plate with slotted vents. the factory had customer complaints of rattles. the fix was to put a cushion between the body and the cowl cover. another bad idea. cushions tend to stay wet, rust forms and bubbles up from the back side to the top under the paint. when fools don't change the coolant, crap tends to collect in the adapter for the lower radiator hose at the block. this limits the flow of coolant through the radiator. lots of over heating issues can be attributed to this. this often leads to seepage between the head gasket between the block and head near the number 6 cylinder. if things get worse, a blown head gasket, same location. other factors also contribute to blown head gaskets. most often is carbs set too lean combined with a heavy footed driver using low grade gas. what do you think ? sounds as if i don't care for the 240z ??? far from being correct. i have owned 5 of em. currently have two 1972 240z cars in my driveway, one is the famous "Bambi Killer". i love the 240z. i have busted my knuckles, shredded skin, cracked my head, burned myself working on 240z cars. my 19 yr old son has caught the bug from me. if i were to sell my 240z cars, i know i would buy another one. once they get under your skin, is just the way it is. but, i am no fool. i know what i am getting. know the ugly side hidden in the beauty of the 240z. you say you know nothing about cars. i want you to know what you are getting into if you buy a 240z. i don't want you biting off more than you can chew if you buy a lesser 240z. a cheap 240z is not a cheap 240z. it will need lots of repairs. i have tried to point out the most obvious problems. if you have limited skills and no money, the cheap 240z will break your heart. because no matter how much of a beater your 240z may be, you will fall in love with it. you will forgive it faults and dump tons of money into it to prove it. f you are looking for a car that is gonna leave a smile on your face everytime you drive it or just back it out the driveway and park it on the street, the 240z is the ticket for that . in the los angeles area, figure on spending around 5 grand for a decent driver. find a club member in your area that for the cost of a combo meal at jack in the box that will be willing to go with you to check out a 240z that you are interested in. don't get sucked in by shiny paint. shiny paint hides a lot of evil. remember every 240z is at least 35 yrs old. it will need maintenance. things that haven't been replaced by previous owners are on the edge of needing to be replaced. the little tang on the exterior door handle is just waiting to break off at the worst time and the door won't open. do you have a friend that is good with a wrench ?? a place to work on the z ? if you don't and don't have 5 grand for a decent 240z, i might be thinking of the 280zx, it is not the thrill a 240z will give you, but it is a more modern car. more what you'd be used to driving the pt crusier. and still has the basic lines of the 240z. you will spend less for a nicer 280zx than you will for a 240z. they all suck for gas mileage. especially a 280zx with an automatic. expect around 16 to 17 around town in 240z with 4 speed. around 22 to 24 at constant 65 mph. back in 81, my 79 280zx GS with 5 spd got 13 to 17 around town, 28 on the freeway. swap a 5 speed into the 240z and expect around the same mpg city and 24 to 26 or so on the freeway. i am in san jose, still see lots of 240z's used as daily drivers. i see on avg 3 to 4 a day being driven in commuter traffic. i am sure is the same in fullerton. check local craigslist, get a trusted car friend to go check it out with you ( or a club member ). take the list of faults i wrote above with you. tell you what, if you have at least the 5 grand. buy a 240z, drive it for the summer, see if you like it, if not your cup of tea ... has no power windows, no airconditioning, thin seats, suspension is tuned for the car guys of the early 70's late 60's. if it didn't add to performance it had no place on a car guy's car. federal safety standards and tightening emission standards began to tame the 240z. to increase sells datsun/nissan started building to non car guys. building for the gold chain wearing disco dancing crowd. progression, the 280z, the 280zx and the flattened 300zx. in 1990 they got it right again with the car guys by revamping the 300zx. although they look like a cross between a fiero and a saturn, get behind the wheel and you will know what i mean about it being a car guy's car. that said, none of the other z series cars have the heart and soul of a 240z. the 240z is the only true datsun/nissan z car. for your own soul, maybe buy a 240z, buy a nice one. drive it for the summer. if you find you miss all the good stuff that goes with a modern car and like the lines of the 240z, then sell the 240 and buy a 280zx. it still sort of looks like a 240z and is a modern car with creature comforts. again, don't buy a 240z beater fixer upper or one in need of small repairs ( no such thing ), it will break your heart. this may not be the advice you were looking for. but is as honest as i can be with you. my son's 1st daily driver was a 1990 300zx. he wanted a 240z. he wasn't ready for a 240z. right now he's in a '95 honda civic. he could not afford the gas for the 300zx and needed a back seat. he doesn't turn his own wrenches ( has the talent but not his thing ). unless i get in a financial bind, he will end up with The Bambi Killer. but right now, is not the right car for him. occasionally he drives the Bambi Killer and he smiles from ear to ear everytime. as much as he loves that car, he understands as a daily driver, he's better off in the civic. these are things you need to consider. no one can make up your mind for you. your money, spend it anyway you want. the 240z is a machine. an old machine. remember this and go in with eyes open, see all the faults, search for them and the don't let your emotions lead you into buying a junker just because it is a 240z. wayne


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