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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/12/2022 in all areas

  1. Today A bright gallon Here is the yellow basecoat I think that was 3 coats of base. There were some areas that had a little gray show through and they were super hard to get covered with the yellow. It's just so transparent! 3 coats of clear. Overall, not too bad but one of my cans of clear had a little rust on it and it ended up in the mixing cup. the paint screens didn't get it all. So there are a few brown specs in the clear. I will have to cut them out. Hopefully I won't have to reclear. It's progress though. My booth didn't totally work the way I wanted. My intake fan filter ended up clogging with exhaust paint overspray coming back in another door of the shop. At the end the booth was pretty foggy! Don't light a match!! I probably should have worn my Tyveck suit but it was already hot in the booth... Colour!!!!
    13 points
  2. Wrapping up the interior. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. It’s not perfect but it has come a long way. I wish I had great pics of the interior to show the before and after. The bottom line my car had no interior and no seats when I bought it. Everything is new or something I either bought or salvaged. The only interior pieces that I had were the plastic panels that go around the rear quarter windows. The headliner was also in good shape and required no work. There was no vinyl on the shock towers or wheel wells. I salvaged mine off a junked Z in a salvage yard. You can see in the before pics the interior was just bare metal. Still haven’t figured on the center console arm rest mechanism. I have all the parts (springs and wires ) just haven’t figured out how is works yet. I also need new sun visors, or to have mine refurbished.
    7 points
  3. My tranny crossmember bushings were shot, so I pressed them out and read tons of posts on the OEM bushings being NLA. I have a couple of different x members from various years, so I figured I could get something to work. I chose to keep my original x member and make a set of poly bushings work. I ordered the black energy suspension bushings from one of the vendors. They are too big and too long for my style x member. I took them over to my brothers house and we put them on a lathe and turned them down to the right diameter and then shortened to metal sleeve and bushings to fit....Tight as a tick! One problem solved.....ten thousand more to go.
    7 points
  4. You hurt my feelings😒 I love my silver 240 with red interior
    6 points
  5. July the 17 I mixed the oil and grease around, burnt the dust of the brakes. I'm scared to go dowm there now. My 4 foot black snake that eats all the chipmunks that store acorns on top of the 280's intake among the other various places has grown to 6 feet now. No more chipmunks but now I have a huge arse snake living in my garage. It's non poisonous by the shape of the head. I know the shape because he leaves me full body skins about twice a year as a way of letting me know he's the boss. I hate snakes. My dog acts weird too from smelling it but I won't kill it unless I have to, you know like maybe a girl sees it and won't come back until it's gone. Here's one from a week or so ago I found in my bycycle. Windshield to headlight, 5' 8 inches.
    6 points
  6. You are the Duke of hazards.
    5 points
  7. Slow progress. Waiting on the body shop to get room to take in my car. I sent off a bunch of stuff to get plated and just got the stuff back. I thought they did a very nice job considering how rough the stuff was. I wet blasted and wire wheeled every nut bolt and washer. I think it was 43 lbs shipping! Engine rebuild should be able to get finished now that I have all the bolts and suspension should be back from powder coating any day. Marquis Zinc Plus in Dundalk MD. Talk to Tabitha, she kept everything sorted for me!
    5 points
  8. Last night I tried popping my hood open, with no luck. I figured I'd have to get it up in the air today and try prying the latch as mentioned in many other threads. But, somehow it did open, luckily. So while removing and cleaning the hood latch, checking the cable, I decided to add an emergency cable, just in case the original fails. First I bought a $2 hook and wire leader from Walmart, 60 lb test, about 34" long, and removed hook and beads. . Drilled an 1/8" hole in the top of the swiveling cable end connector, on the firewall side so it won't bind up with real cable. Fed the small cable loop up through the hole, then big loop through small loop. Attached factory cable and reinstalled latch. Fed new cable to throttle linkage bracket, down the inside of bracket, around brake lines so it wouldn't wedge into something, over to speedometer hole, and inside. Used small binder clip to clamp end of cable to clutch/brake pedal frame. Looks like I'm missing the speedo hole grommet. Anyway, it works great. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but it's there if the occasion arises.
    5 points
  9. 69F this morning so I uncovered the 240Z. Two hours driving around here, ran perfect. It had 72,xxx when I bought it in 2015 now it has 78,855.
    5 points
  10. I briefly owned a JDM 2.0L 70 Fairlady in college (around '95) that I traded a Marine a motorcycle for. I really loved it, but it ended up being beyond my abilities in terms of rust and foolishly let it go to the scrapyard - triple carbs, magnesium wheels, and everything. I've lost many nights' sleep over that tragedy since then - particularly since I ended up in a restoration career - so when I decided to call it quits with other folks' cars, I bought myself the most rust-free '72 Z I could find - to make amends for my past sins, I suppose. 🙂 I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum - I'm already learning tons of history and historical details, going very much down the rabbit hole, and will have MANY questions about my 240 as I touch up and renew some things that age has gotten the better of. So, thanks in advance! I'll grab some photos of it tomorrow at the shop for posterity and to start this off properly. Stay tuned.
    4 points
  11. I've been prompted to start a new thread on this subject after reading - for what seems like the thousandth time - somebody describing the OEM steering wheel on a late 1970 production HLS30UV as "Plastic". No. The OEM steering wheel on the '1969 through 1973 production S30-series Z was WOOD. Real wood. They were manufactured for Nissan by specialist Izumi Motor Co. Ltd, based in Shinagawa, Tokyo. Izumi made a wide range of steering wheels for Nissan, as well as selling their own aftermarket 'sports' stering wheels with a cheeky 'Izumi' engraved script which aped Nardi, one of their inspirations. Izumi used a patented high-pressure heat moulding process. Real wood fibres, impregnated with resin, were laid - following the grain - in a heated mould around the steel hoop of the steering wheel. High pressure, combined with that heat, moulded the wood permanently around the hoop and cured the resin. The result was a wood steering wheel, complete with finger grips on the rear, with no joints or seams. No splinters. My theory is that people found them a little 'plasticky' or just couldn't believe they were real wood, and it stuck. After 50+ years it is hard to shake this off, hence me reading a comment on yet another Bring-a-Trailer auction from somebody who is convinced they are plastic. Evidence: I've cut one up. I'm making a 'special' wheel using this 1970 production Izumi as a base (it was already damaged, so don't weep...) and can therefore show what's under the surface. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...
    4 points
  12. The Chinese are a threat to the world in many ways. They are the leader in CO2 emissions, are an authoritarian government that keeps its foot on the neck of its people, steals intellectual property, undermines civil liberties and uses it power and influence to strong arm companies and governments. The least of our problems are the crappy stuff they make but I agree. Not sure why we (western democracies) do business with them. The only reason I can guess is that we value money more that our western values. It’s like feeding the neighbors dog steaks over the fence, when everyday it threatens to chew your face off. We deserve what we are getting !
    4 points
  13. There are probably five major seals that would be best suited to Nissan OE if available: windshield, L/R doors, hatch glass, hatch inner. The principle suppliers of repro seals are Precision Replacment Products (PRP) and Vintage Rubber. The MSA kit is likely composed of PRP items. I heard some brief mentions some time ago the VR was actually using some pieces from PRP but I cannot confirm the accuracy of that. PRP door and hatch inner seals have long had a reputation for being fat leading to difficulty closing the doors and hatch. Most of the PRP seals for other areas can be used with good results. Don't overlook Banzai Motorworks and 240ZRubberParts for alternate sources of high quality repro items. Just my $0.05 worth - if that much! 😉 I'm sure others on this forum can chime in with experiences with both PRP and VR items. https://www.prp.com/ https://vintagerubber.com/ http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ https://www.240zrubberparts.com/
    4 points
  14. And can I just point out that when I said "I'm thinking that something within the carb itself is keeping that front throttle butterfly from closing completely"... I nailed it! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
    4 points
  15. Installed my new replica tail lights. looked at guidelines from the web, all suggested to cut a wire under the steering column to separate the brake light from the blinker. Couldent understand why you would have to do that? Theres a connection at the brake light switch, used that and used the new harness from the replica tail lights and everything workes. Ofcourse the oem tail light 4 pin connection doesn’t match the 6 pin connection from the replica tail lights, you have to swap these so they match.
    4 points
  16. That could've been the T boner?
    4 points
  17. Your calipers look great. I see that the M10's that you are inquiring about a torque spec have a 10T marking on the heads. The Datsun (Nissan) general torque spec book shows tensile strengths and torques for 4T, 7T and 9T bolts. It would likely be safe to assume that a 10T bolt would be 11% (= 142,000 psi) stronger than a 9T and likely could be torqued 11% (= 31 - 42 ft-lb) higher than the 9T spec as well. Extrapolated values are for M10 x 1.25. General-Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf
    3 points
  18. This week I removed the sound deadening/tar mat from the car as preparation for blasting. To be honest I was really dreading this job but in the end it was actually not that bad! I ordered 5kg of dry ice for the occasion. This worked an absolute charm for the boot area. Leave the ice on the matting for a couple of minutes and you can start to hear it cracking. Then use a scraper and it comes off in big slabs. the transmission tunnel area is much more difficult, dry ice can be used on the top flat surfaces but doesn’t work on the sides, I tried hanging plastic bags with dry ice in them but it just doesn’t get as cold… for the sides of the transmission tunnel a heat gun and scraper worked great for me, trick was to get it hot enough to lift off the metal but not so hot that it melts completely. and end results… still finishing up the bracing, only managed to add a cross brace for the rear of the car as I’m going to remove the entire rear valance.
    3 points
  19. HLS30-41924, build date 8/71. This Z has been a race car since 1989, I bought it in 1989. Originally red, the car had been painted many times. I stripped it to the bare shell, bare metal, removed the bolt in roll bar and built a full cage. Refinished in 1985 Corvette red, and Mercedes grey. It has done well, running ICSCC and SCCA meets in the Pacific Northwet, and Thunderhill twice. I was Conference Production E champion in 1997. The car is currently awaiting a fresh engine.
    3 points
  20. Hi Alan, I show this before you do . From a サービス周報(Service bulletin) 昭和44年11月 ( November 1969 ) page 27, ステアリング ホイール 木製 (Steering wheel. Wood ) シフト レバー ノブ  木製 (Shift lever knob. Wood ) page 130, 握り部分を木製にし、スポーティムードを出しました。 (The grip is wood , to show sportier mood ) Kats
    3 points
  21. Some more photos from my 'autopsy'. This time from the outer surface of the rim where 50+ years of use has worn through the outer layer and revealed a naturally-grained surface below it:
    3 points
  22. 1982 Datsun 720 4x4. Just finished painting it. Fun to drive
    3 points
  23. Techno Toy just sent out an email for their new, custom made S30 steering rack. Check it out: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z
    3 points
  24. I think these 'collector's items' are worth saving for posterity: I must say '71Zcollector' is my kind of guy. He knows plastic when he sees (and feels...) it and he's sticking to his guns. That's the spirit!
    3 points
  25. Maybe it's not the brakes. Could be wheel bearings.
    3 points
  26. Today was a great day to go to the Worship car meet. The weather wasn't too hot, and I found a good parking spot that afforded me some shade for most of the time I was there. There were 2 280Zs, 2 Z31s that showed up, and then there was the time capsule. Sandesh introduced himself to me and said he brought his 1991 Twin Turbo but parked it on the other side of the sea containers in the parking lot. David and I walked over with Sandesh to see his car. It was well worth the effort. Sandesh said he purchased his Z32 with 3K miles in 93. It now has a little over 23K miles. The interior is immaculate, and it wouldn't take too much to get the engine bay ready to win a ZCON Gold Medallion. He still has the original Goodyear Gatorbacks on the rears. I might have to see if I can convince him to buy a Nissan battery. He has been an incredible curator of this museum piece, and I'm so glad he brought it out for us to see. Here is my car with a nice 280Z owned by a friend. And here is the time capsule...
    3 points
  27. Hot is relative. Use an IR thermometer to say what the temps are. How freely can the fronts spin with the tire off the ground? Shoot a video of you spinning the wheels by hand. Post it on YouTube and link it here.
    3 points
  28. Progress… underside is basically done. Now on to the inside/engine bay… started prepping the brake and fuel lines today. Once I have the engine bay and interior painted, I can start much more reassembly. Seriously looking forward to it… I’m tired of looking at shell. I want a rolling chassis again.
    3 points
  29. Today finally steam cleaned the under carriage and glad to see all good under coating, no rust and most of the oil and buildup was around trans and diff. Got it nice and clean. Left the engine alone! It runs flawless idles great and don’t want to take any chance. I am thinking of keeping stock setup for now. tomorrow I am gonna move the balance weights inside and put on the stock hub caps etc. will share a pic later again. For now here is the shot …
    3 points
  30. Before you commit to 15" wheels, be sure you can find satisfactory tires. The selection in this diameter has greatly dropped in recent years. 16" wheels have a much broader selection available.
    3 points
  31. Okay, so this happened yesterday, but it's still within 24 hours... After performing well all last week at ZCON 2022, she deserved her spa day. And all done, ready to go for the next drive/cruise/car meet.
    3 points
  32. Not sure that I agree. Once the engine gets up to normal operating temps, the carb heating loop is closed (as in: inactive, does nothing, might as well not be there). Any emissions-related benefits would be restricted to start and warmup conditions, where the presence of the manual choke would overwhelm any contribution that carb heating might make toward reduced exhaust emissions. Remember, too, that the federal exhaust emissions standards (and related compliance testing) at the time were performed only at ~ room temperature ambient air conditions and with the engine up to operating temperature (i.e. choke off, main thermostat open). It was always my understanding that the carb heating circuit was introduced in an effort to inhibit drivability issues caused by carb icing. Not all carbureted engines suffer from this problem. As well, it apparently isn't specific to constant-vacuum carbs, nor to inline engines, nor to water-cooled engines. Nor to cold-weather operating conditions. It seems to occur only with certain combinations of engine, carburetor, and engine compartment layout and under certain air temperature/humidity/engine speed/throttle-opening conditions. Evidently, Nissan decided that it had heard enough reports of problems with early Z's to warrant spending the (not-inconsiderable) amount of money required to install the carb heating loop (complete with revised castings for the carb bodies and the thermostat housing). There's a useful discussion of the Z's carb heating system on Hybrid-Z, here. And if you use the search function here on the CZCC site, you'll discover that several discussions about the system have taken place over the years.
    3 points
  33. Ohh I just did this, I would use Eurodats part list for OEM part numbers, or on the right side it has the bearing number (e.g. 6305 c3) and order high quality bearings from an online distributor. I bought a bk104 bearing from Transmission Parts Distributors it had one wrong size bearing, it gave me a larger bearing for the fs5w71c. All of the bearings in this kit were from Nachi, they were very smooth.
    3 points
  34. I also believe it was to prevent iceing in the carbs
    3 points
  35. If all you're doing is removing one or more of the gauges it isn't necessary to remove the dash. Refer to the factory service manual. Don't have one - get one!! Best tool you'll ever buy.
    3 points
  36. I think I've read a couple of those over the years.
    3 points
  37. Used hens teeth are out there at times. This had been POR'ed inside at some point. Came off a 1970. Shipping across the country though......spendy! Still needs some work of course.
    3 points
  38. Hazards fixed. I pulled all the connectors C8 and C7 and cleaned all the terminals with Deoxit D5, there was some green residue in some of those terminals. I put the harness back in and now the Hazards are working.
    3 points
  39. @SpeedRoopreviously asked about the Kanri number on the dashboard at the spot where there would normally be a pen holder. It's surmised that this was most likely placed there by a previous owner, as it is not a factory inclusion that appears in any period photos. @HS30-H had clued me into the fact that these rally pen holders were actually still readily available, so I bought several of them with the thought that I'd have to retrofit one with some sort of mount, in order to properly affix it to the dashboard. In stock form, they appear to be designed as clip-ons for a clipboard, or other hard, thin surface. With some samples of the pen holder in-hand, I elected to take a chance and finally remove the Kanri badge, and hopefully re-fashion a new pen holder and custom mount to be placed in the same location. I had always suspected that the Kanri badge was simply a decoration that covered up some form of glue blemish or tear left by the original holder when the car was converted to street use. However, I was happy to be mistaken - after a little careful prying, the badge came off, revealing a precise 1/2" slit and groove that had been cut into the dashboard. The groove fit the new pen holder snugly, so after a little massaging, I managed to situate the new pen holder pretty much as it appeared in period photos. Job done!
    3 points
  40. I remember tooth powder. The homemade equivalent is baking soda and a bit of salt. Shake it into the palm of your hand, rub the tooth brush on it, and brush.
    3 points
  41. What? You’re saying there are more than this to constitute a thorough R&D? my car is pretty “bone stock” except the recent “force” upgraded transmission to closed ratio, and I love it. The front brake thing is another upgrade. The Z sure fun to tinkering and improving things. My pain point right know is my shallow pocket. I don’t see myself upgrading the rear to disc anytime soon. Whenever I upgrade anything, I try to retain the original look as much as possible. I try to absorb the reading materials as much as possible before pulling the trigger … but until I actually do it… I always curious of what iffff . The upgraded calipers with stock MC and booster feel great so far. No spongy feeling. Brake pedal feels tight. One thing I notice is the ceramic pads get gripper as the rotor get hot.
    3 points
  42. Woah, Cliff! Ease up there. Don't want to wear it out all at once. 😂
    3 points
  43. Just to add a couple of details that make this job easier for me. Tools. 1. Getting the rope in the groove. If getting one rope in the groove is tough for you, and my suggestion of using two ropes gives you the willies, then use this trick Go buy a 6 inch piece of 1/4 OD brass or aluminum thin wall tubing from a hobby supplier. Stuff your 3/16 rope through it (I flared one end to make it easier) and use this stiff piece of tubing to poke the rope into the groove (use the un-flared end), then just draw the tubing along the groove feeding rope into it as you pull it along. Keep it poked deep in the groove as you go. Should take you under 60 sec to get the rope all the way around and tucked in real pretty.
    3 points
  44. Yep! just seen this topic and.... YUUPP!! your Crazy! (Just kidding!)
    3 points
  45. Before I put the front cover on the engine, wondering if I can get confirmation that this chain guide and tensioner alignment is good. What do you think? More pics: Oil pressure senders aren't available new from Nissan anymore, however, this "Sankei" from Beck Arnley looks like it could be an original one? More progress on both door panels and fenders this weekend as well. Getting panels flat is hard!
    3 points
  46. So yesterday Shot some white basecoat There was still a little trash in the paint. No idea where it's coming from. So I worked those areas with a little 600 grit and then degreased again and tacked the car
    3 points
  47. Right on, thank you. I am headed out to start buttoning things up. Things are pretty clean under the dash now. Heater box is rebuilt, heater core is flushed, new hoses, new coolant valve, upgraded relay harnesses, new Zclock, new dash. Here is a little car porn.
    3 points
  48. Nothing to tell recently except this alternator, I had my old spare one rebuilt at a local shop. I am so happy with the result , they did what I wanted to have . I said don’t paint green on the center portion, leave it as it is . They said it needs to be painted for some reasons , then we agreed paint clear coat on it . Unfortunately model number and Nissan part number have gone , actually they have already gone when I got it a long time ago . I will put this in my first 240Z , then previous one on my first 240Z will go to my second 240Z . Kats
    3 points
  49. Due to a NASA (supposed to be) weekend on stock brakes (which lasted about 2 track sessions with the instructor) I started out with the 4-piston non-vented mounted on stock disc. (just the caliper change and I can't remember the friction material - probably semi-metallic back then) The "butt dyno" couldn't really tell the difference between this and stock. Disappointed, I installed the Z31 vented rotors with the 4-Runner wide calipers (stock master and booster) - friction was either semi-metallic or ceramic, can't remember. I noticed a good improvement in braking and a large improvement in fade and heat dissipation. A short time later, I installed Porterfield friction material on all four wheels (stock drums in back). These pads grip about the same as an OEM with normal street traffic, when they warm up they get VERY grippy and do not fade. Goldie likes to hill climb (L28ET builds a lot of torque) and coming back down the hill is much less dicey with this particular friction. At the bottom I still have full confidence as these grab better at the bottom than they did at the top and I've yet to experience fade. I've been on this setup for 7-8 years and I daily drive my 260Z. I still use the stock master. My youngest son did the same brake swap on his 1975 280Z but replaced the master with a 15/16 280ZX master cylinder. I'm sure there's some difference, but I've never really been able to tell when I drive his car.
    3 points

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