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cgsheen1

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cgsheen1 last won the day on December 16 2018

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About cgsheen1

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  • Website
    www.sakuragarage.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Tempe, AZ
  • Occupation
    Sakura Garage

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  • Zcars Owned
    260z

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    RLS30

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  1. Did you get the rest of it out? Or waiting... I'm with Patcon - see if you can find another hinge.
  2. Seriously? It was totally obvious (Captain) that the back half of the cam wasn't turning! Three seconds in I was shouting "WHAT??" I have never seen that...
  3. 5th gear in the early 5-speeds is definitely an overdrive gear - for lowering RPM and getting better fuel economy at cruise. Spirited driving (and probably top speed) will be done in the lower 4 gears. Sounds like your differential will be stock which would be a 3.36 R180. My 260Z came equipped with the same differential and I used it for years behind my L28ET and ZX close ratio 5-speed before swapping to a 3.54 R200. The L-series engines used in the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, and 280ZX (1970-1983) had a similar block config and any transmission mounted to one can be mounted to any other.
  4. If you follow the wiring path from the circuit diagram: 20amp fuse -> GY hazard (6) -> hazard (7) GY -> brake light switch -> GY turn signal switch -> WR AND WB -> (harness that runs under dash & connects to body harness near glove box, runs down right side of car to rear -> GB AND GR at taillights. If you disconnect both GY from brake switch, ONE them should have constant battery voltage. The other should not. IF neither have battery voltage, problem is in the flasher switch. IF voltage is present on one, connect them together and check for voltage on GY at turn signal switch. IF voltage, check for voltage on both WB and WR on turn signal switch. IF no voltage, turn signal switch is bad. IF voltage, check the connectors between the dash harness and the body harness near the glove box then go to rear of car and check harness and connectors to tail lights.
  5. Yup, worst place to have damage on a hood. I've banged a few of them out from behind but never in that location or that bad of a crease...
  6. Oh my, I thought everyone already knew of this upgrade! One of the best things I ever did to my Z (Especially here in AZ when you need the A/C!!!) - how many years ago was that... edit: Wow... 2011... https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49583-rebuilding-the-heater-and-vent-mechanicals/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-938998 I'm glad people keep bringing this back, the Kia blower really does move a lot of air. The ducting design is so poor in the S30 that the blower really has to use brute force to overcome the design problems. You also need to make sure all of your seals are tight on the boxes and ductwork or you'll lose most of the increase behind the dash.
  7. Here in Arizona too... Wet winter. My allergies are killing me ATM.
  8. Jeff, The rear wheel studs are longer than the fronts. Replace the fronts with the longer rears (order a new set of rears to use in the front). Here, people also use the wheel studs from the Nissan Quest - they are longer and have a knurl that fits. I'm sure there are also any number of threads with info on how people have gotten their wheels to fit here, and on HybridZ...
  9. You've got the proper block color! Way to go...
  10. cgsheen1

    door glass

    '74-'76 are all the same.
  11. The '75-'76 have a steel ring inside that's covered with - well, what you saw in the picture above. They don't last here in Arizona. They start crumbling and de-laminate from the core so the covering then twists on the steel ring below.
  12. It's a LHD Z... At 3:32 there's a good shot of the rear - clean rear pan but the piston holes are still showing. Might be an early US 260Z converted to JDM or Euro bumpers - the front end is 240/early 260 style but that could have been changed. The rear pan looks like mine though (empty piston holes and all...).
  13. Wow... I'm really outnumbered here. The L28ET is an incredibly stout and reliable engine. At $400 it's an absolute steal! (at $500 it's an absolute steal...) I wish I were in a location that I could pick it up! You don't actually need to do anything to it to get cheap reliable power. If the cam looks good and the engine is relatively clean you're set. The turbocharger is NOT scary - run stock, they last nearly forever. From the factory they run about 7 pounds of boost and at that setting they'll run forever. (most people forget that turbochargers were originally built for aircraft - an avocation where they have to be as simple as possible and extremely reliable...) Run stock, you can drop the engine in with little fuss and you'll have a strong dependable power plant. The stock ECCS engine management system works very well - as long as you keep the engine stock. If you modify, you'll probably have to look at a tunable engine management system. It'll take a bunch of $$$ to craft an N/A engine to come close. The L28ET is cheap power... Also remember that 80% of the L28ET's were mated to an automatic transmission The weak spot: You'll need to focus on the engine (ECCS) harness. BUT, you'd have to do the same with ANY early EFI engine harness! They just weren't built to last this long. Most of the problems are due to oxidized wire and connectors that will skew the information the ECU needs to run the engine properly. A new harness makes a world of difference - that's what NewZed has seen me comment (complain / warn) about. Now... The problem with a turbo engine is it turns many people into boost junkies. That's where the charge pipe, intercooler, blow off valve, bigger injectors, fuel rail, adjustable FPR, bigger fuel pump, new fully tunable engine management system, coil-on-plug, wideband, blah, blah, blah comes from. That's also where you see guys blowing turbos, melting pistons - because they don't know what they're doing. I daily drive mine. Have for the last 9 years.
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