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cgsheen1 last won the day on April 12 2015

cgsheen1 had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen1

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    Tempe, AZ
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    Sakura Garage

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  1. cgsheen1

    Removing Clock Arms

    I installed LED gauge bulbs in a customer car years ago and absolutely hate the harshness of that light. But, I'm an old dude and grew up with soft green gauge lighting. My rheostat windings are clean and it works like a champ - so does my gauge lighting...
  2. cgsheen1

    E brake light dim on speedometer

    With an OHM METER check between THERE and GROUND. Ohm meter should read "0" (no continuity). If it does not read "0" then that part (the Warning Light Switch) is bad and you'll need to remove it and repair or replace it.
  3. cgsheen1

    E brake light dim on speedometer

    Do you have a multimeter? You can test the switch (what you are calling the sensor) by removing the wire and testing for continuity between the male bullet connector and ground (the thing you have circled in red in the picture above). It should have NO continuity (open circuit) if the shuttle inside is centered properly. If it has any continuity then: - There is an imbalance in the brake circuits - The switch is stuck and off the neutral position - The switch is defective The fact that the light only illuminates when the wire is attached shows the "fault" comes from the switch itself, not a ground fault in the wire. The Factory Service Manual advises against repairing this device - but that was back when they were still available from dealers. I would probably source another one - failing that, There's a cross section picture above (Figure BR-12 Warning Light Switch) that shows how it could be disassembled.
  4. cgsheen1

    E brake light dim on speedometer

    Yes (it's a "bullet" connector and just pushes on, doesn't screw on). And clean the inside of the connector that attaches to it also. Once you get the connection all cleaned up and reattached, that light will probably get brighter. If it does, you have a problem with a brake circuit or a faulty pressure differential switch that will need to be replaced. The switch inside completes a ground circuit for the warning light. It can only do so if the shuttle inside is pushed out of it's neutral position by a brake circuit imbalance.
  5. cgsheen1

    Removing Clock Arms

    That's too bad... I've taken apart several clocks and I've always been able to get the mechanism loose and away from the case. I've painted all my gauge cases white inside and it's amazing what it does for gauge illumination! I've never need higher wattage bulbs in my 260Z...
  6. cgsheen1

    Removing Clock Arms

    OMG... I didn't know such a thing existed - but of course, you can buy them on Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/MagiDeal-Pressure-Pointer-Caliper-Lifting/dp/B07GLB3MNL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538673176&sr=8-1&keywords=gauge+needle+puller
  7. cgsheen1

    Removing Clock Arms

    They press on - so the key is just care and patience. The metal is thin and easily bent.
  8. cgsheen1

    Installation of Dynamat or similar material

    I'm currently doing the same and have the a similar conundrum... I don't really want to cover the top of the doors. If I don't, I feel I'll need to line both boxes completely and possibly the underside of the doors. Maybe just line both boxes?? I know from building my Home Theater that an open seam equals a sound leak. I have a fair amount of the rear covered and it seems like most of my noise is now in the tail (light panels) and from the quarter panel area. IDK how I'm going to deal with those sections either...
  9. cgsheen1

    240z 1972 Owners Manual

    The 240Z we had here was fitted with Euro gauges - KPH, Liters, and etc... New owner thought they were cool and left them in the car. The car also had to have a rear license plate light that was under the plate. It had a lamp mounted on top of the rear bumper. It had to come from the factory like that as the holes and the wiring weren't done after the fact. It didn't have the usual plastic light holder under the hatch. It was kind of an interesting story of a US serviceman who bought the Z over there and brought it back to the US back in the day.
  10. cgsheen1

    240z 1972 Owners Manual

    Do the Swiss still have the law that the turn signals have to be above the bumper? We had a Swiss 240Z in the shop that had blank valance pieces right and left (no holes for what we consider stock front turn/park light lenses) and had turn/park lights mounted on top of the chrome bumper. Looked kinda like fog lamps but smaller...
  11. cgsheen1

    High quality and snug fit driver's door weatherstrip

    Correct. The weatherstrip is held in place by the "pinch welt". That "U" shaped part that fits over the flange. It has metal inside and you can actually remove it, squeeze it tighter in spots, and reinstall it if it's not holding well. That doesn't solve your "slamming to close door" or "weatherstrip pinching, cutting, or tearing in some areas" and/or "not completely sealing in other areas" though... The Kia Weatherstrip workaround is a viable alternative to the CRAP door weatherstrip that Precision sells. (We had a 1975 280Z Museum car in the shop and compared the stock Nissan door weatherstrip to the Precision weatherstrip and Precision got it very wrong. The stock weatherstrip is amazing in comparison.) The Kia door weatherstrip is essentially a "side bulb" type (similar pinch welt strip with a hollow circle of rubber attached to the side of the welt) that has a sharpish 90 degree corner molded in. It comes out of an SUV so it's longer than you need for a Z (can be cut and a have the seam under the sill plate), but the molded 90 degree corner fits fairly well in the upper rear corner of the S30 door opening. You can also buy generic side bulb welt that works as well as the Kia weatherstrip. It won't have the molded 90 degree bend needed at the top rear of the opening. I just put the seam there - I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle and mate them in that upper corner. The welt fits nicely around all the other bends in the door opening and I install the pinch without any sealant. BTW, you can also use a generic "top bulb welt: on the rear hatch. It's much the same as the side bulb I described, but the bulb is attached to the top of the welt. When you install it on the lower flange in the hatch area, the bulb will be on top and the hatch will close down on top of the bulb. These bulb type seals are very flexible and will seal a surface with a varying gap. Just another alternative... This is just to show an example of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/rubber-horizontal-Seal-weather-stripping/dp/B00NELWLPE/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1536258411&sr=8-18&keywords=auto+weatherstripping
  12. cgsheen1

    Is my coilover spring rate too high?

    You're correct in that the damper rod coming out the top of the strut cartridge is always fully extended when the strut is unloaded. You really can't do anything to "shorten it up" when you're removing the strut cartridge. The spring can come off either way, but I prefer to remove it from the top. The thread pitch on the cartridge makes unscrewing the lock nuts and lower spring perch annoying and time consuming...
  13. cgsheen1

    Is my coilover spring rate too high?

    Yes, you may need to disconnect the sway bar end links. NONE of the rest of this is true for Stance-USA strut cartridge! Please strike out the lower two comments. edit: In regard to ride height: The softer springs will compress slightly more when loaded than the springs he's using now - not an inch I don't think - but you're right that the strut cartridge will need adjustment in the threaded adapter to get his desired ride height after the spring replacement.
  14. cgsheen1

    Is my coilover spring rate too high?

    1. You DON'T need a spring compressor! a. There isn't a strut cartridge insert - you don't need to worry about anything shooting out or springing apart. The spring is NOT compressed between it's two perches! 2. Take the strut cartridge out however you can and/or want to. Personally, I'd just pull the whole thing out and work with it off the car. a. So, yes - loosen the nut at the top of the threaded adapter and unscrew the strut cartridge from the adapter. b. If you can work with it after it's loose at the bottom, unscrew all of the nuts under the spring and take the spring out. I'm going to refer to the two nuts locked together just under the spring as the LOWER PERCH (or lower spring perch) c. put the new spring up there and install the two nuts that make up the lower perch. When you're tightening the topmost nut, INSTALL IT SNUG TO THE SPRING so the spring doesn't move, BUT DON'T tighten it much beyond that. (If you tighten it more than snug, you're adding PRELOAD to the spring - the spring doesn't require ANY preload (unless you're corner balancing the car - then, your suspension expert will add preload if necessary to get the balance he wants...)) A. If you pull the whole strut cartridge off the car the same thing will be true. Personally, I'd remove the entire cartridge, remove the top nut which holds the pillow block, spacer, and upper spring perch, and remove the spring from the top. Then you'll lower the lower spring perch more than an inch or so, install the spring and replace everything you took off the top in the reverse order. You should have slack between the spring perches, so this is the point that you snug up the lower perch and it's lock nut. Re-install the strut cartridge. Before I remove a strut cartridge I usually measure the distance between the bottom lock nut of the lower spring perch and the locknut on top of the threaded adapter to make sure I've re-installed the strut to the same height. You can't do it this way because you're changing the height of the lower perch. I guess subtracting the additional spring length will get you close though. *** PLEASE GUYS!!! Don't make comments about a specific strut cartridge unless you know how it actually works! ***
  15. Oh, I can! They probably finally figured out that it was more of a bother to eliminate the unused pins than to just install and not use them... I'm sure their connector manufacturer was complaining about having to leave out pins. Now every ECU has any number of unused pins - but they're still in the connectors.

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