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cgsheen1

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About cgsheen1


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cgsheen1 last won the day on June 15

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    Phoenix, AZ
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    Sakura Garage

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    260z

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    RLS30

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  1. Gauge lighting, correct? I didn't have any problems swapping my incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs and they dim with my stock rheostat. (I also replaced the turn signal and high beam indicators without issue) I used these: Amazon.com: QasimLed Bayonet BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 T4W Super Stable and Bright Led Bulbs Exterior Marker Indicator Interior Reverse Side Corner Light White 12V DC 10pcs : Everything Else
  2. As far as replacement glass goes - no difference. I've never had a 2+2 in my hands so I can't vouch for that.
  3. My experience is YES, they can be that bad. I pulled an original off a 240Z that had bad diaphragms and replaced it with one we got from Rock Auto (a GMB maybe?). The new one wouldn't pump fuel. I took it off and could work it manually and it pumped just fine. I started to wonder if there was something wrong with the eccentric in the L24. Then I compared the arm of the new pump to the arm of the original pump and there was enough difference in its aspect that the lobe on the cam wouldn't move it enough to pump. Ordered a different brand and had the same problem. Took a third try before I found a working mechanical fuel pump.
  4. Yup, my dyslexia was showing - got that backwards. Good thing I don't have SU's! I left carbs behind in 1981 and you'd have to drag me kicking and screaming to go back to them... Or EMP me I guess...
  5. He means, put it back on, recheck your valve lash, and go thrash it...
  6. So, no altitude compensation in the '75. Once stopped and restarted, was it better? (some ECUs read barometric pressure at ignition ON and use that figure until power off) Now the SU guys are gonna say: Dang, I could have just rolled down my jets (temperature/altitude adjustment knobs) and kept on going! Sucks you got EFI... The forests in the Rockies are a bit different than in the East, eh. I was raised on the Western slope of the continental divide in Idaho. I thought I knew what a forest was until: A. My wife and I drove across country to Virginia. B. My son and I drove up the West coast to Portland, Oregon. Those are forests.
  7. None of my turbos "freewheel" much if I were to spin them with a finger, but they spin a bit. I think however that mine spins whenever there's exhaust to move it. Yours will break-in I'm sure. Pikes Peak? You're going to need an ECU and maps that compensate for altitude change. That means it'll need a baro sensor, maps for different altitudes, and map switching and/or averaging. I can't remember if the stock L28ET ECU has a barometric sensor or not. My youngest son still runs his turbo-swapped 280Z (swapped in 2006) with a 1990 M30 (F31) ECU made tunable with a Nistune Type 2 daughterboard (11-12 pounds boost and it's a beast). (one can also Nistune a Z31 turbo ECU) Even the low-end standalones have more features generally than the L28ET requires or can use. My MS3X has features that can't be accessed by this old engine but it did give me an easy path to coil-on-plug, full sequential fuel and ignition. Phoenix is about 1100 feet and most people don't think of Arizona as mountainous, But Flagstaff is 7000 feet and my son's house in Snowflake is 6000 and they're just close to the mountains. So, we have a bit of elevation change here if you want to go up into the "piney woods". The basic L28ET engine harness (usually crap after all these years) isn't that complicated. I always advise anyone with an L28ET to scrap the stock harness and build a new one. Most of the connectors are Bosch and easily sourced - new with pins not pigtails. I'm on my 4th harness now (I bought an AEM 506 ECU so I'm building a harness for that right now). My 260Z is an uphill monster - the turbo engine has that much torque, especially with 12-14 pounds boost. Coming back down, I'm glad I have vented rotors and Porterfield friction - they work best when they're HOT.
  8. Dave, did you post the specs of that engine and the modifications you've made? What turbo is that? Then I'm wondering why in hell you're using an L28E ECU to try to run a turbocharged engine. It's a good thing you have it in a situation where you're not inducing any load. It will not build boost (the boost you get will be at zero manifold pressure) while not under load. (my L28ET running 5000 RPM in NEUTRAL will not build boost) You need a proper ECU. On a stock L28ET that would mean a 1981 280ZXT ECU with dropping resistors OR 1982-83 280ZXT ECU without dropping resistors OR a tunable standalone ECU. You're giving more weight (credit) than you should to the O2 sensor. The early ECU does NOT poll the ECU constantly to regulate fuel. Most of the time the ECU completely ignores the O2 sensor and runs off the maps. The ECU tunes cruise AFR under certain limited conditions, in a certain RPM and LOAD range. Even the more sophisticated turbo ECUs of the 80's use basically the same strategy. Do you know for certain if your FPR will RAISE fuel pressure under boost? You can break pistons in an instant if you're hot and lean and mis-timed under boost. Ignition timing is another aspect that needs to be controlled properly. Your posts above throw up all kinds of red flags to me - but it's your engine... I have a stock L28ET intake manifold. It's a bit more sophisticated than one might think - even has a built-in "blow off valve" (that's not what Nissan calls it though). Most of us turbo-swap guys don't use them, opting for a custom intake manifold, the cleaner early 280Z non-EGR manifold, or the like. But, as soon as you ditch stock, you need a tunable ECU. You can add a Nistune daughter board to an L28ET ECU, use Megasquirt, or AEM, or... but you need the ability to tune the maps. Man... There are SO many things here... Turbo lag. I did my turbo swap in 2008 - running stock in early 2009. I've used 3 different ECUs and about to go to a fourth. Stock turbo, Chinese T04E (which I've run for 8 years or more). Stock J Pipe, custom charge pipe, custom charge pipe with same-side intercooler. I've run AFM, MAF, and none of the above with MS3X. I'VE NEVER HAD TURBO LAG - not because I'm a genius - because I have a properly sized turbo and reasonably well thought out charge and intake air piping. I have a turbo that starts to build boost around 2500 RPM, comes on smoothly, and really lets you know it's there when it hits 8 or 9 pounds and beyond. Turbo lag... Edit: OH, and get a WIDEBAND!!
  9. The "pin" is electrically isolated, so it doesn't necessarily need to be plastic. Brass?
  10. That's generally always a good idea. If someone comes up with a replacement for that plastic tip, I can fix 2 or 3 headlight switches that I have.
  11. If you've tried holding the plastic "knob" in the front while using a flat blade screwdriver at the back and it didn't unscrew, then I'd assume the knob is pressed on the shaft like many other knobs on a steel shaft. Since it's a thing that's meant to be turned, I'd think it was the latter - a knurled shaft with the knob pressed on. Since it has a spring behind it, the fit would have to be very tight. It has a few disparate parts, so there had to be an assembly procedure. Now, whether it was meant to be disassembled is another matter... I have a few at the shop but I've never tried to take that particular assembly apart.
  12. Why not bypass the switch and see if the turn signal circuit works otherwise. Power comes from the flasher unit (White to Green?), the switch sends it to the G/B or G/R depending on position. Jump the Power from flasher to the G/B and see if it flashes - then on to the G/R...
  13. The 5-speed adds nothing but an overdrive gear. The overdrive gear is meant for reducing RPM at cruising speed to add fuel economy - not speed or torque. The 240mm clutch package won't care if it has a Nissan 4-speed or 5-speed behind it. I have an L28ET with the Exedy 240mm clutch package and a 280ZX close-ratio 5-speed behind it in my 260Z.
  14. Go through the EFI troubleshooting basics in the FSM and triple check your EFI wiring and connectors - make sure everything is CLEAN. Check your EFI coolant sensor for correct Ohm reading. Please don't touch the AFM until you've literally done everything else (unless someone else already screwed you by messing with it). Vacuum leaks will completely throw the ECU out of whack. If you've had a windshield leak in the left bottom corner be sure to pull out the ECU and check the connector and all the pins for corrosion. L Series love a rich condition - up to a point.
  15. I've got my popcorn - still waiting to hear how the spindle pin saga goes for you. (I shouldn't say this. When I bought this 260Z chassis in November of 2007 to install the L28ET my youngest son gave me I had ZERO experience pulling spindle pins. I wanted to clean and paint all the rear suspension components, so I took it all apart. The spindle pins pushed (well, tapped) right out - someone before me had installed them correctly and used anti-seize - but at the time I assumed that was the way all spindle pins would be... Besides mine I actually did 2 or 3 sets before I ran into my first "cut it apart and press out the pieces".)
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