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cgsheen1

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About cgsheen1


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  1. Printer files have been on thingiverse for quite a while for this and many other Datsun parts.
  2. It's a coil (much like the filament of an incandescent light bulb in this case - the filament itself doesn't actually care which way the electricity flows) so it'll work as long as one side is battery voltage and the other side ground. You should be able to see it work when it gets voltage if the hoses are disconnected. You can look through the hose connections and see the shuttle. It should be mostly open when it's cold and has no voltage. Once it has voltage, the coil will heat the bi-metal strip and cause it to bend, which moves the shuttle slowly until it closes the port. It takes a couple of minutes.
  3. There are only 2 flare connections and the large o-ring that seals the expansion valve inside the dash. They're fairly easy to access and soap since they're right in front of the evaporator. Although not impossible, I would highly doubt a leak on the evaporator itself. My bet would be that your leak is probably the compressor. Another tip about "soaping" joints: It's actually better to test with low pressure. Sometimes high pressure will just blow the leak locator solution away from the joint so quickly that you won't actually see it. In that case it's better to use a more viscous locator solution. In this case just go slowly and make sure the solution envelopes the fitting and you're checking all angles. You can locate leaks in piping with 1/2 PSI. Few people know this but the natural gas piping to a residence comes into the home at 1/2 PSI. We test the natural gas piping to 10 PSI for 30 minutes, but you can see a leak bubbling the leak locator at 1/2 PSI.
  4. Check for power and also check the connector for corrosion / oxidation and clean it. It's a Bosch connector just like the injector connectors and can be replaced with a new one if necessary.
  5. Oh, so you have a Volkswagen engine builder over there as well!
  6. The front part of the head gasket seals the head to the front cover. When you pull the front cover while leaving the head attached, you need to pay special attention to the head gasket seal in that area when you reinstall the front cover - and it will require sealant which is tricky because the gasket will likely be oily. Some people cut the gasket back at the block face, clean it, the bottom of the head, top of the front cover, and put it back in place with sealant on both surfaces and "back in the corner" at the cut line. I do. It's good insurance. I imagine everyone has their preferred method. A Volkswagen engine builder taught me to apply a gasket sealer (I use Permatex gasket maker in the tube) this way: rubber gloves, put a small amount of sealer on your gloved finger, press it to your thumb, pinch the gasket between your thumb and finger lightly and keep pinching until you need more sealant then repeat. The object is to put a very thin layer of the sealant on both sides of the gasket and you can even it out by going back over the heavier parts when your finger has run out. This way you have a little added protection and you don't have RTV oozing out the sides (both inside the engine and out...) Ya, it's kind of a PITA, but it's worth it.
  7. Yup, that "horse hair" jute batting was used extensively in upholstery back in the day. It's replaced these days with another form of breathable batting which I would use in the areas that had the jute in the first place. There needs to be something between the springs and the seat bottom foam or the foam will suffer. And I think the comment above about the jute in the seat back is entirely accurate. I'd use a thin-ish piece of batting there also. You can buy upholstery batting any number of places - Walmart, fabric store. Just be sure to get Upholstery Batting (quilt & etc. batting is different stuff). This is more than you would ever need, but it shows what I'm referring to: Amazon.com: AK TRADING CO - 48" x 5 Yards. Bonded Dacron CertiPUR-US® Certified. (Seat Replacement, Upholstery Sheet, Foam Padding) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
  8. It's a drag working in the heat (at least here in Phoenix it's "a dry heat"...) but first thing I would have done was pop the top off a float bowl and see if there's any fuel in there. Well, maybe I'd pull the fuel line off the rail and run a 3 or 4 foot piece of hose off it into a fuel can to verify that the pump was pushing fuel first, then check the float bowl. Gotta check when you're having the problem though. Carbs (I thank goodness every day that I have none) don't run off the pump, or the rail, or the fuel lines. They run off the float bowls. If there's no fuel in there it's somebody else's fault... Figure that out. If there IS fuel in there and the engine doesn't run then it has to do with delivery from the bowl to the carb - bowl outlet, weird little hose, jet, needle... Personally I'd lower the jet (L-series seem to hate idling lean) - you accomplish the same thing pulling the choke - because I'd bet that your "altitude/temperature correction" is off. My second bet, if the jet/needle setting is correct, that there's either a restriction aggravated by temperature or your fuel pump / fuel system is affected negatively by increased temperature. I also wouldn't be surprised if your float valves stuck intermittently (cooler fuel (more dense) will push them back open but hot fuel (less dense) and/or vapor will not). Or, maybe your carbs aren't set up and sync'd properly at all... (And I definitely WON'T say that I have a 240Z in the shop right now in the 100+ (113 the other day) degree heat (L28, SU round tops, electric fuel pump, MSA header with a stock heat shield (for an N33 intake), no shroud, alum radiator, stock fuel rail (that is not bolted to the head however), and also - no coolant to intake manifolds...) that doesn't have any "vapor lock" issues. I didn't make it that way - but someone did. Nope, I'm not going to say that...)
  9. Same here, I broke down and installed LED gauge bulbs last October. I bought the ones on Amazon with the frosted plastic domes. Much brighter gauges and they dim with the stock rheostat. If you're still looking to buy incandescent, you might try an aircraft supply place like AircraftSpruce.com. Many general aviation aircraft are old, and certified aircraft uses mainly old tech so there are a lot of old aircraft gauges still being used - they all need bulbs. I think that place has a fairly large selection of GE incandescent bulbs.
  10. The seal on there currently belongs on the back side window frame, not the front
  11. Are you saying that you've adjusted the nut out far enough that it's now causing the fork to put constant pressure on the pressure plate? Just wait for the longer collar.
  12. We have used Meguiar's Hyper Dressing for 12+ years on Z car rubber, vinyl, and plastic. You don't ordinarily use it full strength, you thin it as desired with distilled water. We normally use a 50/50 mix but you can get any consistency you like. Cuz Arizona, we can get pretty crispy plastic, vinyl and rubber trim and weatherstrip. I've put plastics covered with Hyper Dressing in a zip-loc bag that are "dried out" to the cracking stage and brought them back to reasonably flexible within a few weeks (clam shell, switch plastics, gauge bezels, and etc.). We use it almost exclusively when we detail - great on tires too. A guy in the club here swears by 303 but I've never used it. I have Mothers Back To Black but it sits on the shop shelf.
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