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cgsheen1 last won the day on August 11 2019

cgsheen1 had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen1

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    Phoenix, AZ
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    Sakura Garage

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  1. The one issue you may have is with the joints. In the early Z cars the connections were flare fittings and flared copper tubing. The connections to the condenser are flare fittings. I've never taken apart a '77-'78 A/C system so I don't know if they are the same as the '74-'76 A/C fittings but I would think they would be the same. With the 280ZX, they started using o-ring connections. The fittings on the condenser are probably o-ring. You could have the high-pressure lines that connect to the condenser custom made if the ZX condenser is the same form factor (or could be made to fit in the Z chassis). But you will probably be better off with an aftermarket condenser that's made to fit the Z car and it's flare fittings (if that's indeed what you have).
  2. You're correct, chrome doesn't like to be hit - not with a metal hammer. That indent would need to be pushed (pressed - from the backside). Someone skilled might hammer that out but not the way you'd think. I'd advise against trying it yourself (if you need to ask the question, you probably can't complete the task...) Most formed metal likes to go back to it's formed shape unless it's stretched too much.
  3. I hope these aren't huge - Galaxy S20, best camera I've ever had. See, my chopped off bumper strut is still there...
  4. I can't tell from that photo. I used 240Z bumper mounts and the ones I have don't really fit right but mount the bumper fairly well. I should have fabbed a pair of custom brackets, but you know the old saying about the cobbler and his own shoes... I don't make the time to work on my personal Z like I should. I'll post some phone pics.
  5. That's me. Mine had no bumpers, took quite a search to find early 260Z bumpers and I hated them... Later found some fairly good '73 bumpers and installed them (ya, huge front bumper mounts too)...
  6. Ya, should have mentioned that I've done a few subsequently on other Z's in the shop. It is entirely possible to remove that strut without completely removing the tank AND without cutting anything. It's much easier when you have a lift. I've lowered the tank - disconnecting as few of the hoses as possible (normally right side only - but that's most of them, right?) - supported the tank variously (rope, straps, whatever) and wormed the strut out in one piece. It's kind of a PITA but completely do-able. On the floor it's a little tougher.
  7. I installed 240Z bumpers on my early 260Z several years ago. I didn't want to use the pistons for mounts so I removed the driver side completely. I too, at the time, didn't really want to drop my fuel tank to get the passenger side piston completely removed. My answer was my Sawzall (reciprocating saw)... I cut the end of the piston off flush with the end of that outer casing. I cut from the bottom upwards so when I got to the pressurized section it spewed oil and gas out the bottom.
  8. Ya, I'm an A/C nut - cuz Phoenix. I've collected about three complete stock A/C assemblies over the years but just like SteveJ says - that expansion valve... It's a doozy. Most expansion valves just have an inlet and outlet for refrigerant, but the one Nissan used has multiple tube connections to the evap core. To get a simpler expansion valve you need a whole new evap core. The expansion valve CAN be dis-assembled and cleaned/refurbed - but it takes a bit of a wizard to reset the adjustment screw for the orifice if you need to and you'll have a search for the proper o-rings. Having said that, my A/C has been all stock since I got my 260Z back on the road 11 years ago - and it's my daily driver even when it swelters here in Arizona. (Oops, except my Ultra-Heaven duct which increases the airflow from the center vents HUGELY!) (dang, I also forgot my Kia Sportage blower...)
  9. Yup. That's what I found in the '73 FSM. Got to be it.
  10. How many pins (wires)? What are the wire colors? What is the manufacture date?
  11. Yup. I did that too. Awesome upgrade from H4's. So bright I had to make sure my headlights were aimed properly... 😎
  12. cgsheen1

    door windows

    There are fairly detailed instructions and examples in the Factory Service Manual regarding the adjustments to the two "rails" you may need to look at to get proper window movement. The part you mentioned may help you in other ways, but not with the issue you've described above.
  13. Just as a side note, this type of side-bulb welt can be acquired from many different sources including Amazon. Just be sure the "bulb" is large enough diameter to fill the largest gap space you have between door and body. If your door is still a bit hard to close after installing this type of welt, it's likely due to a place where the gap is much too small and part of the door is actually hitting the "pinch" portion of the welt. The bulb is generally super soft. You may need to adjust the flange (ya, bend it in a bit) on the body at the pinch point to increase the gap a bit.
  14. Yup. This is my preferred removal method. I've found that if I can get them to turn, I can get them out. Even if they don't spin freely, it I can get them turning at all I can tap them out while they're turning. I love that they're the same thread as a lug nut. I always use an old lug nut to protect the threads when I'm removing a spindle. Normally I'm locking two nuts together and using my impact wrench to see if I can get them to turn.
  15. Even if you got them on without chipping the paint, you'll never get them off without scratching it. I know, you're not PLANNING on ever taking them off again... Guess again. Some things you just have to live with.
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