Jump to content

cgsheen1

Members
  • Content Count

    397
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

cgsheen1 last won the day on August 11 2019

cgsheen1 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

199 Excellent

About cgsheen1

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Occupation
    Sakura Garage

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    260z

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    RLS30

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No one, I hope... Just me, but I really don't like the 280 "bulb" valence with the 240 style bumper - screws with the line of the headlight bucket. To my eye, the bumper above is also too "high and tight". It accentuates the bucket / valence offset rather than minimizing it if it were a bit lower and protruded a bit farther. Well,,, You asked!
  2. Easy way to check the gauge itself is to ground that YELLOW wire with the ignition on. It should peg the gauge to F. You don't need to let it go that far, if the needle moves the gauge is good. The wiring and fuel level sender are easiest to check with a multimeter reading the Ohms value between the two contacts on the sender. You can do that at the sender itself, at the connector under the hatch, and at the yellow wire going to the gauge in the dash. The fuel level sender is a "variable resistor" (and built like a rheostat) - it's resistance value changes with the level of the float. As
  3. From the web: Place the 1-quart container in a well ventilated area. Pour the oleic acid into the container. If pure oleic acid is unavailable, Murphy’s Oil Soap may be used a substitute, as it is essentially the same substance, and works well as an ingredient in clock movement cleaning solution. Add the acetone to the oleic acid. Slowly pour the ammonium hydroxide into the mixture of oleic acid and acetone. Do not pour too quickly, or the mixture will splatter. Ammonium hydroxide, 26 degree Baume, is a common, commercially available
  4. Ya, you could run a jumper from battery to flasher - but you're bypassing the fuse. I wouldn't. I don't know anything about the electronic flashers but from it's description, I don't know why it wouldn't work. Other people use them. But, is there a specific way they have to be wired? Is one pin dedicated to voltage INPUT and one to voltage OUT? NM, I just saw that the "X" terminal is for the GREEN wire and the "L" is for the WHITE wire... Look, the hazards work, yes? Then the issue is somewhere between the fuse and where the turn signal switch connects to the dash harness. Stop wondering
  5. The Hazards and the Turn Signals work on two different power sources (because the Hazards work any time and the Turn Signals only when the ignition is in the ON position...) Power (battery voltage) for the Flashers: Battery -> Ignition Switch -> B/W to Fuse Box -> F (flasher) Fuse Box terminal -> Green wire to Hazard Switch -> G wire to Turn Signal Flasher unit under steering column -> White from Turn Signal Flasher unit -> bullet connector Green wire to Turn Signal Switch. The green wire on the switch is connected to the center of a "tetter totter" inside the sw
  6. 240Z? Looks like fuse box piece from bottom side...
  7. I am the bubble. I am the bubble. I am the bubble... Nope. Didn't help. I guess I'm just not Zen enough. 😝
  8. So, here it is. The bleeder is tapped and drilled at an angle. It enters the wheel cylinder NEAR the top... The brake line feed is drilled perpendicular and enters at the center of the cylinder. I think Cap has it with his excellent Fluid Dynamics instruction.
  9. Tomorrow I'll be replacing rear cylinders - discovered that my left rear was leaking yesterday. Two new rear cylinders are being delivered to the shop in the morning... While I don't know if the bleeder comes off the top top, I think it's an optical illusion to believe it's on the bottom and there are cavities inside that could retain air during the bleed process. That goes against everything humans building cars have known about hydraulics for the past 100 years.
  10. Is it though? Or does it just seem that way? Never-the-less, people have been bleeding these successfully for 50 years. I use a slightly different bleed method than most. I bleed the master first (in car, using the bench bleed method), then the left front, right front, right rear, and left rear. It doesn't take more than 3 pedal pumps to bleed each corner this way. My bleed hose goes up - above each bleeder valve.
  11. Just as an FYI: Transmission Parts Distributors has the same kit with free shipping. Ends up a little less expensive even than Rock Auto.
  12. The stops were just to keep the nose of the hood from hitting the steel bumpers on the lates. I don't think there was ever an issue with early Z bumpers that required a stop to limit travel. The difference in the hinges was just a small piece of metal welded to one of the arms to halt motion at a set point. I'd use hinges without stops if you have them, it'll keep you from hunching over so much...
  13. Ya. And that's become our business...
  14. Q, Take that hatch off and don't put it back in until you have the glass and trim installed. Seriously. You may think it's better to fit and adjust with the glass removed, it's not. Adding right side struts are a very good idea for a 240Z, but I'll be very surprised if that's the answer to your issue. I'd look at the hinges again, angle of the hinge mount to the body, or angle of the flanges on the hatch itself. Have the welds broken on the hatch flanges on either side - or have they been re-welded at some point? (That issue came up not long ago at the shop...) I would want
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.