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cgsheen1 last won the day on April 12 2015

cgsheen1 had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen1

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    Tempe, AZ
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    Sakura Garage

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  1. cgsheen1

    Rear interior vents

    The S30 chassis continued using the same side vents throughout the rest of the run (240, 260, 280). If you're concerned only about originality of your internal panels you need the panel with the holes. If you're only concerned about venting, any panel will do. The Z interior is plenty porous - if not, why would they dispense with the perforations on the later years... Interior air has many paths to the side vents.
  2. cgsheen1

    918 Orange paint mix

    I agree. (and, 110 oxidizes toward orange over the years - even so, it's always completely different than 918 which is definitely a "burnt orange" without any apparent red in the tint - and 918 would never oxidize toward red) The engine bay is probably not the place to look for original color. Best to look for the factory overspray on the interior of the car. Check the spare tire well first, but it may have been shot over as well. Definitive proof is usually under the vinyl on the pillars... If it's 110 - oxidized 110 - the color you get from a supplier from their stock formula will never match the oxidized paint. It will be a deeper red. Remove one of your side maker lights and look at the paint underneath. You may see that it's darker, more red. If so, it isn't stained - that's the original unoxidized color.
  3. cgsheen1

    Seat restoration

    Sounds like an old plumber talking! I have actually done that in the past to make a hole punch. I have copper pipe and tube AND I have a proper pipe reaming tool (because I am a Journeyman Plumber). If you "over use" the reaming tool, you can get quite a sharp edge on the end of the tube!
  4. cgsheen1

    Engine lift for front cross member removal

    Be safe. Be smart. Take the engine out and put it on a stand and you'll have the cross member and suspension free and clear to work on. The "extra work" would come from trying to work around the situation you're trying to create to avoid the extra work...
  5. cgsheen1

    Not your usual no heat/defrost issue

    As much vacuum as your engine makes. (Make sure that check valve is working.)
  6. Oh, so there was a rubber piece on the end of the bumper - that covered the notch-out.
  7. You may already know this, the 2-bolt hole flat "faces" of the pistons (bumper shocks) will rotate - so if the bolt holes don't line up...
  8. I believe that would push the ends back into / over the front wheel arch. IIRC, the front bumper "sides" are longer to compensate for the amount the bumper has been brought forward. It's been a few years since I abandoned my early 260 bumpers in favor of 240Z bumpers so I may be mis-remembering, but I think that's the case...
  9. They look similar, but they're not the same. They are shaped differently because they were pushed farther forward and mounted on pistons to meet the new US crash standards. They should mount on a 280 much like they do a 260, but they will remain pushed away from the front of the car. The early 260 had various "filler" pieces to cover the newly increased gap between the bumper and body (and grill). I doubt you could get the early 260Z front bumper to fit tight to the body like a 240 bumper.
  10. cgsheen1

    240z Front Control Arm Bolt

    Yes, it mounts on top of the control arm.
  11. cgsheen1

    Tachometer trouble - repair options?

    Right, the Tach in the earlies is "current sensing" so the wiring path to the ballast and coil is very specific and it requires a coil with the same value as stock. There are two B/W - one that goes to the ballast and one that goes to the coil. Be sure to reference the full circuit diagram because there are simplified diagrams in the BE and EE sections that don't show all the wiring involved in the ignition and Tach circuit...
  12. cgsheen1

    Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    😅 I love to see pics of 280's - with super long tail pipe extensions! cough, cough...
  13. cgsheen1

    Another Clutch Pedal Question

    Well, easy in regard to the pedals themselves... You don't have to do anything there. (Or, if you already have the dash out of the car.) The pedal box is probably the very first interior dash thing installed in a bare chassis. Everything else near there gets attached to it or installed over it - thus requiring quite a bit of disassembly to replace it. (although, in my old age it's probably easier for me to pull the whole dash than lay under the steering column while trying to fish the pedal, bolt, spring (little plastic things under the spring ends), clutch pin and clip, blah blah blah...)
  14. cgsheen1

    Found old Z pictures. I’ll start!

    The middle picture above looks just like Jim's Swiss 1973 240Z we had in the shop last year. The turn signals had to be above the bumper, so no cut-out in the front valence pieces for T/S. His didn't have an air dam - I like that air dam... Also, the rear license plate lighting couldn't be above the plate so the light was mounted on the rear bumper.
  15. cgsheen1

    Quarter window lower rubber glass to door seal

    Do you mean the weatherstrip that surrounds the quarter window top, back, and bottom glued to the stainless steel frame? It's a "U' channel and the longer "leg" goes to the outside - if that's what you're asking...

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