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cgsheen1

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cgsheen1 last won the day on April 12 2015

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About cgsheen1

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    Tempe, AZ

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    260z

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  1. cgsheen1

    78 280 Re-Assembly

    Ya.
  2. cgsheen1

    Vinyl Wrap Anyone?

    The wraps that we've seen here in Phoenix just don't last. I don't quite get why not (i mean other than the harsh climate...). There's obviously a difference in material - my wife bought a G35 Sedan in 2007 and had a "clear-bra" product applied by the dealership (or contracted by the dealership) to the front end and other common "chip" points. It's held up remarkably well to our desert southwest conditions. But, we had an RX-7 in the shop last year. The owner had it wrapped a few years prior to avoid repainting. It scratched easily and our Arizona sun was really hard on it. It stuck well - some of the underlying paint was pulled off the car when they removed it... All of the wrapped cars I've seen here have very obvious surface scratches. We see a lot of kids here going to ASU driving wrapped GTR's. A few corvette's. The only really nice wrap I've seen was on a McClaren that pulled into the Pavillion's one Saturday night. I'm sure there was a LOT of money in that wrap - it was clear, and it was perfect. I guess I'd want to protect the paint on the McClaren too, it was awesome... Which brings me back to scratching my head about my wifes 11 year old "clear-bra" that still looks very good... It's probably just like paint - you get what you pay for.
  3. cgsheen1

    Turn signal turns on headlights

    There's a "flash-to-pass" circuit in that diagram. The Swiss 260Z we had in the shop had that feature and I've heard that the Fairlady's did too. Check that circuitry and it's associated relay. The USA models only have the HI/LOW beam selector (switch) associated with the turn signal lever. Maybe something is mis-wired so the turn signal switch is setting the flash-to-pass relay.
  4. cgsheen1

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    NO! Stop giving these kinds of ideas - someone might actually try that... Rolling with a bat IS a thing. And there are certain cars you could probably get away with doing it that way. Not on a two sheet, spot welded Z rear wheel arch. And not on a flimsy Z front fender unless you are the miracle man. Pie slicing... Dude, never do that... At first glance, it doesn't seem like taking a body hammer to those flanges would be the way to "roll" a Z Car's fenders but I've been doing that in the shop for almost eight years now. That's how Goldie's fenders are rolled and her arches are still perfect (Of course it's a little easier to do that BEFORE paint...) Patience is the key to joy.
  5. cgsheen1

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    OMG... Please don't do that...
  6. You're swapping in a slightly newer version of the engine that that was already in the car. You'll be able to reconnect or reuse everything that has to do with your gauges.
  7. cgsheen1

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Best of luck with the fender roller. The rears of an s30 are stiff and the curve above the arch gets in your way. Be patient. We end up pounding them...
  8. Oh, I'm sorry. I made it sound easy? I guess that comes with over-simplification. You'll find out.
  9. You really just need the engine harness itself. I usually keep the EFI Relay and Fuel Pump Relay intact (simpler than the 280Z circuitry) and sometimes use the 280ZX fusable links (that have to do with the ECCS and injector power). There is a small harness on the 280ZX that comes from under the dash, up the driver fender, to the coil and ignitor that I find useful but it's not completely necessary. There are several other wires in that harness that have nothing to do with the coil/ignitor so I strip them out if I use it. (No point really - most of the wiring you need for the turbo coil/ignitor - and your Tach - is already there on the stock 280Z. You just need to add one wire from the ECU to the Ignitor to make the whole thing work.) If you're going to use the stock harness: Get yourself some DeOxIt (made by Caig) and AFTER you clean each electrical connector on the harness, engine, ECU, AFM, sensors, (well, you get the idea - EVERYTHING!) use DeOxIt on the connections before you put them together! There are specialty tools made to clean the oxide and corrosion off the brass connectors. I would say that over 90% of the problems people generally have with these early EFI / ECCS engines are electrical - most having to do with wiring and connectors. These old harnesses were never weatherproofed (and never meant to last this long). EFI/ECCS is dependant on reliable signals from sensors to function properly. Oxidation of the wire and connectors creates increased resistance which skews the signal from the sensors. Eliminate as much of that as you can. In reality, most of us have had to abandon the stock harness. After months of troubleshooting, my stock harness worked pretty well and I drove my turbo-swapped 260Z for years with it. When I went to a different ECU and built a new harness, I came to the conclusion that I should have done that in the first place. Live and learn as they say...
  10. cgsheen1

    cgsheen1

  11. cgsheen1

    How many threads on coilover to be safe?

    I can't believe how straight your 280 is Derek. Someone has taken very good care of it! Looks great. Best of luck and if we can help in any other way, let us know.
  12. cgsheen1

    How many threads on coilover to be safe?

    The height adjustment in these struts are in the threaded adapter tubes - NOT by moving the spring perches! (as I've stated elsewhere:) Generally, the spring perches should never be adjusted. On this strut cartridge you would only change the position of the lower spring perch (at the bottom of the spring) to add pre-load to the spring. Most installs do not want or need any pre-load on the springs. IF the spring is loose between the upper and lower perch, the lower perch should be adjusted so that the spring is just snug. The upper perch is not adjustable. A quote from the Stance USA FAQ site: "When adjusting the height, do not adjust the height by the spring perch. All height adjustments should be done through the lower mounting bracket.Adjusting the spring perch will change the spring preload and should only be done when corner weighting and balancing the car." You do not, will not gain any "height" (additional length of the strut cartridge) by adjusting the spring perches. If you installed a longer spring, you would have to move the lower spring perch down on the strut cartridge to complete the installation. You would not gain additional length in the strut cartridge. That "rod" you see coming out the top of the cartridge is at the maximum range of it's travel - it simply cannot extend any further upward. The "no loss of travel" comment on the website refers to being able to move the strut cartridge up and down in the threaded adapter without affecting the damper travel in any way. The damper is fully contained in the cartridge and can't be affected by moving the cartridge up or down in the threaded adapter. (Certain other coilover setups use a stock-ish damper cartridge whose range of motion is affected when the ride height is changed.) Albatross knows what he needs to do to get his install where he wants it. My response is mainly to clear up any misconceptions or misinformation.
  13. It the rust (dirt, crud, water deposits) wasn't enough, I've seen several that were "mushroomed" internally on one or both sides of the Lock Bolt. The spindle is "softer" than I would have originally thought. If it's out of place, or the lock bolt is over-tightened, or installed incorrectly, it can deform the pin in that area - making it even harder to remove. Besides the anti-sieze, use caution installing the spindle pin and lock bolt - and don't over-tighten. To remove, I use impact. A couple of old lug nuts on the threads of either end (or both...). If I can get the spindle pin to turn, I can always get them out.
  14. cgsheen1

    1972 FSM

    AFAIK, the 1971 FSM was a supplement to the original Datsun 240Z Sports Service Manual. Available in 3 parts on the Nicoclub.com website http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals . I have it. It shows the 1971 wiring diagram and whatever changes they made elsewhere from the Series One.
  15. That looks way too red to be the stock Datsun #110 "Persimmon Red" to me. The stock 110 single-stage paint starts out kind of a deep red-orange and fades to a almost more orange-than-red over the years. The paint oversprayed on the interior is definitely 110. The exterior doesn't look 110 to me - but that may be your camera - or my old eyeballs... (This showed up when we painted Patrick's Late 260Z. He wanted Orange "like his car was" - but when I showed him the original mostly unaltered paint under one of the side markers - which was WAY too red for him - he decided against the stock 110 color and we used a GM Orange for his new paint. Lucas has a 280Z with the original, never been repainted, Datsun #110 that he drives into the shop every day.)
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