DatsunZGuy

The whole series thing just helps establish a sub-category value pecking order and strokes egos of early production owners.

It has been years since I had to swap an oil pressure sending unit out and I don't recall an o-ring. I say just get some high temp thread sealant and give it a try. It is the cheapest and least invasive first step in the process.

Get an estimate from a reputable shop that can respray the area and blend the paint with the rest of the panel and give it to the offending detailer. At a minimum, they should at least pay half for the correction. Get it fixed and put up for sale. Unfortunately, it's very likely the repair will not fade at the same rate as the rest of the car and will be more obvious as time goes by.

Looks to be an early '74 260Z.

These photos of a 240Z cowl repair may help to determine what might be missing. http://www.kiddysclassics.com/projects/1971-datsun240z/cowl.html

Do you mean the hood cowl?

Thanks for the information👍 I bookmarked their website.

The places you mentioned that offers free shipping on large orders enjoy the benefits of economy of scale. Companies like Summit and Jegs offers a vast product line that covers a variety of models and makes. As a result, they can negotiate shipping arrangements with logistic companies without adversely impacting their bottom line.

My money is on the series-one fan blades versus a heat shield.

I currently have a '72 with build of 12/71 purchased from the original owner that has the same belts pictured. I've owned a couple of 1973 cars and they had the plastic sleeves at the base.

The troubleshooting methodology you posted seems logical and I would have followed the same steps. That said, I had a similar issue my on the 1973 I owned years ago. The vapor lock issue was addressed as per the Datsun service directive, but I would find myself stranded at times. In my situation it was more of a flooding issue than vapor lock. I adjusted the floats, which seems to resolve the issue. On interesting side note: Years ago, I drove this very car to the Nissan dealership in Santa Maria, CA to purchase an OEM oil filter. Then, I got in the car would not start after much cranking. An older service technician saw me struggling and walked over. He asked me to pop the hood open and then he began removing the plug wires from the plugs and re-inserting them back on just short of being snapped into place. He then asked me to crank the car again and it started!!! I'm not sure what voodoo or magic makes this work, but I was grateful nonetheless. I had to use this technique a couple more times before eventually selling the car.

I resealed my doors with thick plastic from the local Home Depot along with 3M Strip-Calk.

Sage advice 👍 I remember trying to hookup the speedometer cable from under the dash on my first Z. My hands looked like I put it a fishbowl full of piranhas. Glad me tetanus shots were up-to-date.

I have converted two of my vehicles to Evans Waterless coolant 4 years ago and pleased with the results thus far. You are correct about it not being compatible with water. However, my main concern it not a coolant mishap on the road, but rather Evans ability to preserve the coolant system internals while a vehicle is stored for prolonged periods of time.