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madkaw

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madkaw last won the day on May 20 2018

madkaw had the most liked content!

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About madkaw

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    bloomington IN
  • Occupation
    class 1 locomotive engineer

My Z Cars

  • Interests
    Planes ,trains and automobiles
  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About My Cars
    1971240z complete
    1971 roller
    1972 roller
    1970 roller

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  1. Apply for a new title ! Got a bill of sale and get the car - especially if it’s decent. I got a 1970 that way. I don’t care if I don’t have the original title - ITS MINE ! Your going to have to make concessions to get an early one. I guess I won’t offer my 71 with no title and needing bodywork .
  2. madkaw

    Interesting early Z on BaT

    It would be a great head for a L24 . Not sure how big the ports can go - I know they are smaller . Great chamber design and square port exhaust .
  3. madkaw

    Interesting early Z on BaT

    The E-30 heads are 37cc Chambers compared to 39-41cc on the E-31 or E-88. I run 37cc chambers on my L24 , but it’s a e88 that has been shaved a bit 😜 I also have significant bore notching which lowers compression . That coupled with a 490/290 cam I have no issues with detonation with 93 octane. The L20 ran dished pistons with those tiny chambers
  4. You should be fine with stock timing
  5. Need a complete AC for my 240

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. madkaw

      madkaw

      Use private message to message me - thanks

    3. madkaw

      madkaw

      Or text me - you should still have my number

    4. Don McNabb

      Don McNabb

      Have changed phones. My new number is 812-798-2784. Do not have yours. I know you gave me the AC parts ( I think, maybe you didn't, cannot remember), but I think I am going to put AC back in it. Called Vintage Air and they really dont have what I need. Trying to call MSA, no luck yet from them. Just thought if anyone knew you would what the best route is to try and keep it all factory.

  6. madkaw

    MN -47 cylinder head

    Not really true on header options. A square port header will work fine on this head. It’s going the other direction -square port head to round port header- that doesn’t work. Yes the sweet e-88(E) heads we don’t get here, this is a nice compromise .
  7. madkaw

    240z floor pan replacement question

    This is why butt welding gets tricky. Unless things are lined up perfect you can find yourself patching in gaps . I would recommend Cleco’s - you’ll wonder how you did without them. I learned my lesson with these panels - only cut off what’s bad on the original panels. Removing all of the old panel all the way to the inner rocker panel is usually not necessary , usually not much rust all the way up there anyway. I didn’t hardly catch this issue when I did mine. It made the floor slightly off level
  8. IMHO - 44 for your engine size . If it was a bigger liter motor , or you were planning on spinning it way up high rpm , then maybe bigger valves . Can you go too big - I doubt it , so no time then the present to cover all the bases . Quite sure you can buy valves from Rebello - and he would give some free advice since your buying 🙂
  9. I feel worried for my kids ( 22 and 28), for what they have to deal with . And that’s from every side. Liberal, conservative , it doesn’t matter. There is other issues like global warming , a smaller more connected world, and many other things that our unconnected , ignorant bliss life didn’t have to deal with at their age. The times - they are a changing ( confusing) - sing along.
  10. madkaw

    MN -47 cylinder head

    I have a very clean cylinder head from a Maxima for sale as is , or build to suit. If you don’t know much about these they are a very nice option for a Z motor. Small well designed combustion chambers ( approx 40cc) with a nice quench pad to help resist detonation . It has exhaust liners , but they flow great unless your building a race motor. If you do some research you’ll find it makes a sweet little hot rod head for your block. The MN 47 head came with the bigger 35mm exhaust valves and has 42mm intakes . This head will work on any Z block , the only exception is that a stock L24 block might need to be clearanced on the exhaust side. I can walk anyone thru that detail. These heads are drilled to except both carbs and EFI. This particular head has been pressure checked, checked for flatness and has VG guides and valves in it now. You can literally pop in a cam and springs and go! Or I would be willing to do that also. Or put the bigger 44mm valves in this head and drop it in your L28 block and make a killer motor. This is one of the cleanest heads I’ve ever owned . Almost zero corrosion and clean as a whistle inside. Some good reading over at HybridZ’s about cylinder heads I am currently building this head for my L28 build. Ported and bigger intake valves! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39134-big-and-nasty-headwork/ So buy it as is or let me build you something . Contact me for details or more pics sfinnerty1018@gmail.com
  11. madkaw

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    20 gauge is probably closer to the gauge of the exterior sheet panel panels , but you can get 18 to work also. 16 gauge is flooring thickness . There will be quite a big difference in heat and difficulty in welding. Welding a bead will be tough with 20 . It will be slow hand and lower heat . Above recommendations of many spots and connecting the dots after words . Bounce around when doing a panel to disapate heat. Short beads after welding slots is good, but let things cool a bit before laying a bunch of beads . Practice !
  12. madkaw

    LD28 Complete disassembled

    You mean it IS being used?
  13. madkaw

    engine/trans help

    Get a box end wrench and a dead blow to simulate an impact wrench. Put wrench ( box end) on the bolt , hit wrench with 3lb dead blow to break bolts loose. It might take a couple of tries . I leave the spark plugs in to make the engine more difficult to turn over .
  14. madkaw

    Legitimacy of AFR gauges

    It always bothered me that there isn’t an indicator on the dash to verify I am in 3rd gear and not 5th. Just because I push the shifter further over - how do I really know that I am in 5th and not 3rd? Just because I follow the pattern on that stupid little knob doesn’t mean I have actually changed anything
  15. Is that also the small exhaust valve too- 33mm ? Are you having any port work done?
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