madkaw

Not sure that’s true . The position it sits below the floor hole is awkward either way. IMHO just a flip wouldn’t be much better . Angled upward towards the hole would be best . Deleted all together would be better . The other hose is available for the front vent . Even if that hose becomes NLA, it could be done easier them the top rear vent . I just did this job on a 71. Replaced all vent lines so it is fresh on my mind . The top rear vent is a mother .

You didn’t completely delete the vapor system because you left one of the vent tubes . The vent tube you left is the hardest to connect . Im also not sure how you delete all the vents and the fuel tank can properly operate and breathe. There has been members here that have deleted the vents and have had fuel cavitation from lack of air to vent the tank . One vent line might be enough and I think the OEM system seems too much . I also am glad you are making these and I am not nit picking your effort . I just did a tank vapor system with all new hoses and the one in the top back is the worse to do . That why I wish you left the other two . Good luck and thanks for your efforts

Yep - you deleted the wrong vents . You should have kept them two and deleted the one at the back of the tank . Nissan still sells a vent hose for the front vent and the side vent doesn’t need a formed hose . The vent you kept is he hardest one to duplicate and reach . Too bad

Cliff - you crack me up . you know I couldn’t figure this signature stuff out earlier because unless my I Pad is sideways I can’t see my sign in . Thanks for the help . Maybe someday you will be as cool as me.

That was 7kish

Wish I could figure out how to change my signature - it’s outdated

My son has the perfect filming car . His Model 3 will out run me all day , but also quietly film me . Third gear pull.

I also like the condenser idea . I still get a lot of moisture even with my compressor . After years of inadequate compressors I finally put out the bucks . 2k if you want something to run a blaster and not be struggling . 5 year warranty parts and labor ! That’s 80 gallon - 19cfm at 90 psi. And suction type blasters “suck” especially from HB. Watch some you tube videos on modifying them

Well since you are on here I’ll ask you about the floor sections . I contacted you by email and you did not respond . The rear section of floor board that covers behind the rear seat rail - do you sell it separate ? I bought the kit and thought it would come with that section - but it did not . I reached out to you and you didn’t respond.

Yep - kind of disappointing they didn’t get that right . My ST ‘s are a better fit , but they are not progressive.

The seller said he’s sold hundreds of sets . I asked on FB and heard back from several that they are running them with good results . I wanted to make sure I didn’t get the wrong part . I think they are too small in diameter for the perch’s , but I guess they seat good enough to run. They need to be at least 1/4” bigger .

That’s a stock spring .

I’ll just jump on this thread . Ordered new Votglands and KYBs for a 71 . Spring diameter is smaller by a good 1/4” - so they don’t want to seat a full coil in the perch - especially the top hat .

Thanks guys . I’m bending up a piece now that I will plug weld from the bottom and inside the rail ( outside wall) , and eventually will attach it to the inside wall with plug welds. I’ll post pics as I go along . I pulled out the nutplate and there wasn’t much to it or left of it . It came out too easy .

I’m trying to repair this frame rail around the sway bar attachment point . Trying to get an idea of the shape of the original nut plate that is spotted in. looks like a box shaped nut plate with maybe 3 sides ? The metal was rough on the outside rail , someone had did a bad patch job . Looks like about 3 spot welds on the bottom of the rail . Maybe the box had a front side that was spotted to the frame rail /engine side ?