-
Content Count
4,156 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
madkaw last won the day on January 3
madkaw had the most liked content!
Community Reputation
560 ExcellentAbout madkaw
-
Rank
Registered User
Contact
-
Map Location
bloomington IN
-
Occupation
class 1 locomotive engineer
My Cars
-
Zcars Owned
Former Owner
Z fanatic but no car right now -
About my Cars
1971240z complete
1971 roller
1972 roller
1970 roller
-
So you have valve timing marks that show excessive slack. You have a poor running motor . Now you have valve train noise . Time to pull the timing cover
-
Art and function done well . I still admire your skills . It’s hard to watch without being envious of your meticulousness . Fortunately I have a friend with a mill that can make me precision , because I’m more the ‘get er done’ guy .
- 694 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- safari gold
- 240z
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I believe this was mentioned by someone else in this thread . I decided not to use their supplied nut for that reason of seizing
-
The timing curve is not going to adversely affect his troubleshooting
-
Very similar but has square exhausts instead our U.S.A. round ports
-
It would be nice to swap out with a known good dizzy . Maybe the shop fried your ignition when they installed it . Did it run okay after they put the Pertroni in?
-
Not enough history here . Did this motor ever run right ? Did this happen only after the carb work ?
-
Need more background info . Did you rebuild the engine ? Did it run right previously?
-
Ignore the bright link . That dizzy spline should be at 11:25 o’clock . Looks like yours is at 12 noon .
-
I don’t know guys - looks like that dizzy drive shaft is off a tooth if that’s TDC .
-
You guys haven’t even mentioned the best head yet - MN -47 . Because it wasn’t in the Z , people forget about it . It has the best all around combination for a street motor . Maybe not the best race head , but best bolt on for power with the least amount of work . Small chamber - high quench , good casting .
-
Going thru this dilemma right now with my current customer . Needed to spray the engine bay . His is a 2/72 . I thought 918 was the only orange , but when the painter mixed it he said it wasn’t even close . Too light of a color . He took the gas door in and matched it . The paint shop called it code 56? It looks Very close to Hemi orange . Was there two different orange colors ? Same dilemma with interior color . White or is it off white ? I will add that this car was re-sprayed at one time .
-
Get a vacuum gauge and plug it in somewhere it sees full vacuum . You should be 15-20 hg at idle . Closed throttle will give funky compression readings
-
Sounding like a vacuum leak . You need to spray something around that gasket while running . That would answer why you need some many turns out if you are sucking extra air . The wrong impedance on your coil would answer the sooty plugs . Pull a plug out with the wire attached and turn over the motor - preferably in low lighting - and see if the spark is blue or more yellow . Don’t worry about the cam sprocket for now - get the basics first
-
When you checked the mark on the cam sprocket at TDC - was the #1 mark on the sprocket where it should be ? Id say your valve timing is retarded by the pic , but doesn’t explain running issues . Don’t be shy about advancing the sprocket - it will help low end torque . 4.5 turns seems way too much . Sure you have the needle jets seated correctly ? Verified good strong spark from the plugs ? Verified no vacuum leaks ? Taken a vacuum reading ? Compression test ? Was Pertronix set up properly based on ballast resistor used or not ?