madkaw

I think you need to just open your wallet and get another AAR valve. I didn’t know you could adjust them, but yours does not seem to be working correctly. It sounds like there isn’t proper movement of the valve - as in , not enough, which might not be adjustable . 1000 rpm cold is not too much- if not enough really.

Disconnect your brake booster and purge canister also looking for vacuum leaks

If the AAR valve is only open a sliver when cold then it is not working properly. The thermotine switch is a ground for the AAR so it has to work correctly . Do not put AAR in any water . The AAR should be fully open when cold and close slowly with voltage . Ohms tests with the EFI bible will show this. Sounds like you also have a vacuum leak

Like Zkars said- it’s all about the size of the brake MC booster unit getting bigger and causing the spacing of the holes in the firewall to change - this changing the spacing - this changing the alignment of the rod going thru the firewall - this screwing up everyone’s day

Make sure you are on compression stroke if you are checking chain stretch using the cam marks. I usually find something to stick in #1 spark plug hole that will pop out easy when you are turning over the engine and it builds compression. My favorite hole stopper is a large vacuum plug shoved into the spark plug hole. Believe me , you’ll know when TDC compression is coming. as far as the pulley marks, if you look closely , one V mark is bigger then the others , that’s TDC. Use the crank pulley to turn the motor

Get yourself some Cleco’s , it will help you very much in this endevour . I posted a thread many moons ago about installing the pans - it might help

Well NO LEAKS and a happy owner ! It wasn’t that simple of course. I talked the owner into a new timing chain because the sprocket showed abnormal wear - especially for only 30k miles. And the owner still says swears it actual miles. When installing the new chain guides I found the reason for the abnormal wear. It was odd that the chain was stretched but the tensioner was fully seated and the reason for that was someone put the wrong length bolt in the thermostat housing which actually pushed the straight guide out a couple of mm. Of course the new chain guide bolt holes didn’t line up because there was a bolt in the way. Anywho, the engine runs fantastic - for a stock L28 with an automatic. I put a stereo in his car because I had to flush his heater core and change hoses anyway. The car rides really quiet even with worn out seals. It really is a nice car. I went over the owners house to say hi and pull a spark plug and the burn was perfect. The owner is a little disappointed with the power output and the auto doesn’t help, but he admitted that it was a fine sports car and liked the way it drove. He’s already asking me about power upgrades .

Date?

I think Branson Missouri - no?

So did they announce location for 2019?

So close to factory !

Interesting ! Some things to consider with my race car ( well someday ). John as good people and shared with me some experience he had for working with Rebello and it was helpful. So bigger connected rails are okay , but only spot weld ?

Probably wasn’t an OEM sprocket . I believe it’s every fourth revolution the links end up correctly.

I believe one tooth is 9 degrees

Looks like the tool is in there