madkaw

Well back to the shop with it

The drain stops when I pull the T plug . I can make the regulator click by removing and installing the T plug .

I thought about ditching this older style with an internally regulated style - but his electrical needs were so low . what’s the chance of having two bad regulators - that’s what’s weird . I don’t have a FSM . Maybe see if my Hanes has any info .

I have a .5A draw. Pulled all fuses one at a time Alternator and starter have been professionally rebuilt . Replaced voltage regulator which I thought was the issue . It clicks when connecting the battery cable . Old one and the new one . It also gets warm . 2 bad regulators ? When I pull the field plug it quits So my white 12v from the starter is intact . I have 12v at the plug for the regulator ( solid white ) I have continuity from the WB at the regulator to the WB at the field plug . That makes me think the regulator is not supplying the 12v at the plug .

And it’s not the only Jeep part on my car - lol

I do have a Datsun soul . It does work well and glad to see people using it

Well I have answers and have to fess up of a mistake . The yoke sent to me was only 24 splines but skips teeth at 180 degrees . They call that a 26 spline I guess . I didn’t at the time check the actual measurement of the yoke and ASSumed it wouldn’t be right , but it is . So the 83 turbo - regardless of manual or automatic have a larger output shaft with 26 splines . I had no clue .

Thanks again . I know the block is a great ground , so I am over thinking things . I’ve cleaned all the grounds everywhere on the chassis .

I’m building a little 1972 resto mod for someone. He wants to keep it automatic . I did some searching and realized the 83 turbo automatics had a lock up torque converter - badly needed really . I acquired one and on install DS from the 72 wouldn’t fit ( 24 spline -24mm) . The 83 zxt( at least this one) has a 26 spline output -26mm OD. I sold my last t5 DS and it had the oddball yoke - I believe is 26 spline . I’ve talked to many people that automatics and no one has one with a 24 spline output . Ordered a new yoke from Z Car Depot that they said had 26 spline . Came today and it was 24 spline 😡 I know autos are spoken about much , but maybe someone knows something

Awesome @SteveJ explanation . More stuff to delete ! The diagram you picked is correct for my 123. The blue wire is about two feet long . I was hoping one of these wires I don’t need anymore was a good chassis ground . I’d like to get as close to the battery as possible . I figure a good ground is essential . Too bad my harness is all taped up and pretty . I just didn’t want to take anything out that broke the circuit of the inhibitor or somehow alter the operation on the automatic .

There’s a thermal relay that the RB wires runs thru . There’s also a thermal switch in there somewhere . Not sure what their function is . So you think I don’t need to connect the RB to the coil - like in the original wiring ?

I thought the fit was quite snug - but I’ll look at it again

Hey guys , I’m installing the 123 ignition on a customers car and he has automatic transmission . This is a 2/72 . I’ve been looking at schematics and I’m trying to educate myself on inhibitor switch’s and the rest of the workings of the auto trans . I don’t have a FSM and I’m using a Haynes manual and it doesn’t cover the electrical side of the auto trans . I just ordered a FSM for the chassis on S-30 and hope that help. My current concern is Red/black wire that splits to the two blacks - going to coil - and distributor . I would think that these are part of the inhibitor circuit so I need to tie these into the circuit with the 123 ? Are these grounds once all the requirements are met in the inhibitor circuit ? Trying to figure what the thermo relay does ? Every black wire I measure shows no ground . Makes me wonder if that’s an issue. One last issue . It seems I have a battery drain . When I hook up my battery cables the voltage regulator clicks like a relay - is that normal . After charging my battery i checked voltage and lost .5 volt pretty quickly . The voltage regulator was warm

WHOA ! you don’t want that much vacuum advance( map curve) added on top of your base timing . You have your numbers reversed . With speed density system the kpa increases with load . So instead of adding timing during cruise( lower kpa) , you are adding during timing during heavy loading