Mark Maras

@jalexquijano

@siteunseen Which one are you driving to Z Con?

I'd worry about old fuel first as well as your driving priorities.

It was 180ish psi last year. Something changed. Assuming the cam wasn't changed nor the cam timing, I'm guessing the valve lash is too tight too @jalexquijano Time to check the valve lash again if you're sure the 100 psi compression test was done accurately. Yes you have to. Valves that aren't closing all the way will be burned toast in a very short time. On the plus side, IF, the 100 psi was correct jumping it back up to 180 will feel like you slapped a turbo on it. After checking the valve lash do the compression test with the engine warm. Start with #1 and go thru all six, then test all six again to verify the first test results. A written explanation of the 100 psi compression test procedure might help explain the low numbers.

How is it doing these days when idling in traffic? Still overheating or loading up the plugs? Easy enough to add a hose but what "situation" is the mechanic trying to solve with the extended air intake? The compression test looks wonky to me. First, I've never seen identical compression in all cylinders in any engine. Second, If they're all at 100 psi, IMO, they're all low. My engine tested around 160 psi (+ or - 5 psi.) the last time I checked. is it possible the valves were set too tight?

Years ago Kathy asked me the dreaded question. Do these pants make me look fat? I, of course, said "No". She then asked, "Are you saying that just to make me feel better?" My response was, "I would never say anything to you just to make you feel better." We both had a good laugh and the question of clothes hasn't come up since.

keep in mind that "I just wish I could do the work myself" was the first step for all of us. If you have the space and time, go for it. Many of the Zs here have been rescued from becoming a parts car, most by owners who started off not knowing how to do the work and learning as the job progressed. Take it one step at a time and ask questions. You can do it.

I'd buy them. I like the idea of brass contacts too but in reality there is only one "contact" point in the center of the rotor. The precise placement of the rotor and the precise air gap between the rotor and the plug wire "contacts" are the critical factors IMO.

@Redwing

I'm sure there are other quality brands out there. Perhaps others can advise on those. I haven't bought caps and rotors often enough to know which brands are best. I do know the Bosch cap and rotor made a significant improvement in performance and may have been the deciding factor in getting the RX7 thru DEQ again. A bit expensive when compared to other brands. I did notice the Bosch rotor precisely fits the dizzy shaft. It looks like the rotor was machined to fit the shaft. I've seen a few degrees of slop in cheap rotors. I'll never go cheap again.

The plugs look pretty good. #4 still looks like the ground electrode has a bit more carbon than #2. You report that the engine is running good. Congratulations on a job well done. Re-adjusting the floats and mixture screws all depends on your curiosity level. You could end up making it worse and have to return to the current settings. That would be OK too. At least you'd know for sure. Personally, I'd drive it until I either didn't care about re-adjusting them or until my curiosity drove me to try raising the floats and mixture screws. Nice that you have the option. If you do re-adjust the floats and mixture screws, be sure and report back on your findings. The more you screw with them the more you'll learn. Did you replace the generic cap and rotor with quality parts? I still think that may be the problem with #4.

No open casket. Just an urn with a Z on it. The cremation will take place at the time of the accident.

Kathy and I will be there too.

I had to deal with Chinese steel products for around two decades. We normally bought steel wire from Tree Island Steel in Richmond, Canada and the quality was always excellent. Then about once a year the current knot head in corporate purchasing would buy a few hundred tons of Chinese wire at a discount and distribute the wire to the manufacturing branches with no prior notice. Surprise! Production plummeted when we tried to use the Chinese wire. The inconsistency was beyond belief. I was not popular with Corporate when I sent it back year after year. Might explain why everyone was smiling (including me) when I retired.

Attempting to coax our 12A rotary 81 RX7 thru another DEQ check we bought a Bosch cap and rotor for it. The previous cap and rotor were "some aftermarket brand" too. The DEQ exhaust readings were substantially cleaner after those two Bosch parts went in. If you do change the cap and rotor, move #4 plug to another hole or put in a good clean plug from your ever growing stash of plugs..