Mark Maras

IMHO, finish each section. One doesn't want to remove a lot of metal at the same time on these cars unless the car is on a jig.

Cliff is picking us up at the airport at 10:00 AM tomorrow morning and the plan is to head directly to the track and meet up with Jai (RedWing). Cliff will be there until late Saturday. Looking forward to meeting y'all. I've been practicing my language skills.

@AK260 Jalex installed a new Bosch cap and rotor a few weeks ago.

That you will. I'll know more tomorrow. The plan, so far, Cliff is picking us up at the airport and spending the day. He'll chime in tomorrow. He just got home from his weekend and was going to bed.

Kathy and I are taking a United red-eye flight from Portland. Cliff is picking us up at the airport at 9:55 AM. This is going to be fun!

@jalexquijano I don't think you need hotter plugs yet. Some of the plugs are looking good. Let's figure out what's wrong with the others. Have you installed the new wires yet?

Keep an eye on the Portland and Seattle Craigslist.There's still quite a few Z's in this corner of the country.

My first option would be to remove the brass sleeve and butt weld the ends together. It seems likely that a short piece of round bar may be needed to fill an unseen gap. Second choice would be drill and tap the sleeve on both ends. I'd probably put four holes in it. Drill deep enough to dimple the linkage shaft, tap the holes and secure it with set-screws.

I knew little about DCOE's until I followed this thread. Thanks. Now for my observation and question. Do you think the problem with the 45's is they're a bit to big for the cubic inches and that's why the 40's work better? The reason I ask is this problem seems related to the late 60's when people would install a higher cfm Holley (usually) on a small block Chevy. The results weren't good. I've always assumed the reduced performance was caused by reduced air speed through the venturis.

@jalexquijano Normally I would say no because we haven't proven them to be defective but I'm going to say yes, dump them. They're not that expensive and I still suspect the problem is in the wires or connections.

Check it for elec. continuity first. Whee was the one that told us about soaking sending units in CLR. I've saved a couple of sending units using his tip. The worst one had good continuity but was rusted up solid. Nothing would move. That one took 48 hours in CLR. It came out looking good and worked great.

I'd wiggle things first and check the ground. An easy method of checking grounds is make a temporary ground using a length of electrical wire with an alligator clip on each end. Ground the instrument with the temp. ground wire and see if anything changes.

I'm going on what I've read. It appears that the speedo has two wing nuts that are accessed from under the dash. One wingnut on the top, one on the bottom. It's been reported that they can be difficult to crack them loose. After removing the wingnuts and disconnecting the wiring, the speedo pulls out from the front. If you have a dash cap it will be difficult to get the speedo out but it's possible. Good luck.

@siteunseen

I fabbed the cover piece once. The problem with bending the 1/2" rear lip down is that neither long edge is straight. Not much of a radius but it's there. I ended up using a 6" vice to coax the bend in short sections then hammers and dollies to clean it up. It came out better much than I expected.