Mark Maras
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Bending float tab direction - 3 screw SU
Mark Maras replied to 882993md's topic in Carburetor Central
My floats were never level after adjustment and they worked great. -
The "strong noise" is likely worn shoes. Pull the drums.
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'71 Pollution Controls: Keep or Remove?
Mark Maras replied to DannDZ's topic in Open S30 Z Discussions
@rossiz removed most (if not all) the extras on his balance tube and welded up the holes. -
su Is Walker 15566 the correct carb rebuild kit?
Mark Maras replied to DannDZ's topic in Carburetor Central
If you want to have a go at refreshing your SUs get Ztherapy's video "Just SUs" along with your rebuild kits. You'll be an SU expert. -
I'm curious if the lug nuts are the right ones for the wheels. My old 5-slot US Wheels used a lug nut with a washer and a long straight shoulder that was a snug fit in the wheel.
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su Is Walker 15566 the correct carb rebuild kit?
Mark Maras replied to DannDZ's topic in Carburetor Central
@siteunseen Cliff is the expert on needle valves. The hoses from the float bowls to the nozzles were not braided as I recall. The hoses need to be SUPER FLEXIBLE (think al dente pasta) otherwise the hoses will bind the nozzles, usually preventing the nozzles from sliding up (returning) to the unchoked position. Ztherapy supplies very nice hoses that I believe are made of silicone. -
The fire extinguishers were empty but their bladders were full.
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No neutral safety switch on the early 71s nor a seat belt warning buzzer. Not much extraneous crap on the early ones.
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You can weld Zedd Findings over the factory rails BUT that doesn't deal with the rust inside the factory rails. The rails are frequently rust pitted on the inside almost to the point of total penetration and the outsides will look pretty good. Off with them.
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I've seen faint spider webbing on those casting in the past but nothing as prominent as those and never in those locations.
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No problem with welding heavier sheet metal to thinner. I prefer welding thick to thin than thin to thin. I'd remove both floor pan frame rails first and assess the damage to the floor pans. The welded repairs in pics #3 & 4 suck.Those welds will need to be removed and redone properly. Remove the undercoat and rust from those ares and you'll have a better idea of what you'll want to do.
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Looking at its current state, in my mind, it's begging for a hook of some sort, attached to my slide hammer with a lot of heat around the edges. Beer is optional.
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Loud noise coming from rear brakes on my 240z
Mark Maras replied to jalexquijano's topic in Wheels, Tires and Brakes
Metal to metal is usually the brake shoes scraping the drums caused by no brake lining left on the shoes. It "sounds" like it's time for new rear brakes and possibly a drum turn if they look rough. -
Loud noise coming from rear brakes on my 240z
Mark Maras replied to jalexquijano's topic in Wheels, Tires and Brakes
Describe the noise. Squealing, metal on metal scraping, intermittent noise that matches drum rotation? You will need to pull the drums and visually check it all out. -
Compression looks good. My theory on advanced ignition timing (detonation) causing oil smoke is the fuel mixture is igniting before the pistons reach top dead center. This would cause excessive pressure on the rings allowing oil to blow by. I'd back off the timing or increase the fuel octane to ELIMINATE all pinging and or detonation and drive it. Detonation will eventually destroy rings.