Mark Maras

I agree that looks about right but you won't know for sure until you measure the temperature of the coolant when it's hot.

I'd weld a big nut on it.

The extra support may prevent the root problem.

That's the direction I'd go. Perhaps two surface checks. One cold and one hot.

As I understand it, the problem is always in the center carb. and only when it's hot. It would be interesting to see how much hotter the center carb. base gets verses the outer ones. Is it possible the manifold (and carb. base) are warping due to the heat and or the manifold is transferring too much heat to the carb. base? Have others had this problem using Canon manifolds?

I like it. Will the grommets withstand the heat and oil?

Yes they do sound like a wounded seal, even the new ones.That's the best description yet.

I doubt the problem is in the carbs. Both carbs rarely go bad at the same time and the engine will run (or try to run) on one carb. I'd start with a fuel pump check. Fuel pressure and fuel volume need to be verified. The test is available in any Z repair manual and a gauge can be borrowed from a parts store. No fuel to the float bowl possibilities are; clogged banjo filters on the carbs, bad mechanical fuel pump, Loose eccentric that drives the mechanical fuel pump, plugged lines, it's possible you also have an elec. pump and filter back by the tank. If so both should be serviced, Rust, flotsam and jetsam in the tank blocking the line is common.

They look the same as on my early 71 (late 70 build date).

I don't have it in my 401Z stash. You might want to inform the local Datsun and Z clubs in the NW. Craig's list might be worth a shot too.

I've used several layers of paper towels soaked in Evapo-Rust, then layed the wet towels as flat as possible on the vertical? rusty surfaces and covered the towels with Saran Wrap. (does anyone use that term anymore?) I checked the progress and re-wet the towels using a spray bottle as needed.

Don Kirshner introduced pure bubble gum music with cartoon band members because the Monkees got uppity and wanted to play their own music. Thanks for nuthin' Don.

I agree. It looks custom made. The welds they look OK but not professional.

If the Nissan bushings aren't available, others have reported using Dorman part #38397. I believe it's a door hinge bushing for a Mopar.

My original roll bar had flanges that bolted to the shock tower tops and another set that bolted to the front of the fender wells. I had to drill those holes. I wish I remember the manufacturer but that was 45 years ago.