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Mark Maras

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Mark Maras last won the day on April 16

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About Mark Maras

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    Portland, Or

My Z Cars

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  1. Mark Maras

    Brake booster testing

    @gnosez @Will S
  2. Likewise. I've learned a great deal about Weber's from this thread. Thanks and keep up the good work.
  3. The original problem may have been caused by an elec. pump "putting out a boat load of pressure" that was forcing fuel past the float valves. At this point in time I'd do a fuel pressure and fuel volume test as well as checking the float valves and the float height.
  4. Mark Maras

    Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z

    I seem to remember a part like that near the elec. fuel pump in the rear. I assumed back when I saw one it was a rock deflector of some sort.
  5. Mark Maras

    she falls on her face at 3500-4000 rpm

    An assumptions here. The engine doesn't cut out, it just runs out of power under load. I had a similar thing happen years ago. While driving my 240 down the freeway my speed dropped to 45 mph. Kicked in the clutch and revved it to 6 grand. Put it back into third accelerated at full throttle. It wouldn't go past 45 mph. Second gear, same thing. 45 mph was the limit. My Dad knew immediately what it was. Lack of fuel. Mine was corrected (temporarily) by blowing thru the firewall filter in reverse direction. Then a new fuel filter. Hope yours is that easy.
  6. The fact that #1 looks good and others are carboned up makes me think the problem is electrical. Probably somewhere in the cap, rotor, plug wires, plug wire connections. New plugs, resistance check on the plug wires, double check the plug wire connections and a good quality cap and rotor should clear it up. Jalex in Panama had a problem similar to this. #4 plug was always a little darker than the rest. He had good NGK plug wires, at the time. He replaced the plugs, and bought a Bosch cap and rotor. His #4 gremlin disappeared with those changes.
  7. IMO, the first thing to check is the accelerator pump in the Holley. With the engine off and the air filter removed look down into the carb. and operate the throttle linkage. There should be a visible squirt of fuel. I'd also verify the float level is correct.
  8. Mark Maras

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    The only info I had at the time (1973) was from the parts guy. I did a quick search and there are bakelite VW wire boots still available but I failed to find one with a resistor. I'd go with either of the ones from Summit. They both have resistors in them. You will have to unscrew the caps from the plugs to use these connectors. Hopefully your plugs have removable caps.
  9. Mark Maras

    Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

    When I got my first Z, I swapped the plug wires to copper core wires. AM (71 Z) radio static was unbearable. My local parts supplier suggested using VW (I think) connectors that had a resister in them. They were a Bakelite (?) piece that replaced the rubber boot and connector that slips onto the plug. I cut the plug connection off the new plug wires, screwed the new connector on and voila no more static. I ran them for years with no noticeable change in performance.
  10. Mark Maras

    I could use some help in the Eugene, OR area

    @Ryans280z, @DamonR
  11. Mark Maras

    Misfiring while cruising

    As I recall, you're starting it on half choke now. You only need enough choke to keep it idling smooth. When it's idling you can blip the throttle to check the engine response. If the mixture is too lean (cold engine, not enough choke) the engine will stumble a bit before picking up revs.
  12. Mark Maras

    1972 Float Adjustment ...

    Wow, Those are great numbers. Thanks for sharing.
  13. Mark Maras

    Missing weatherstrip on window?

    I've used a lot of Permatex products over the years and had no problems. Either one will do the job but I'd use the 3M adhesive.
  14. Mark Maras

    Wiper puzzlement

    You'll be pleased to know that the slow wiper speed isn't an issue at higher mph. The wipers will lift off the windshield.
  15. I've experienced a transmission whine and a prop shaft vibration. Fortunately at different times. The trans. whine was audible and sounded like a bearing going bad but didn't transmit any vibration to the shifter or the chassis. It was a bearing as suspected. The prop. shaft vibration in mine occurred above 80 mph and was horrendous. Sounded and felt like there was a 600 lb. bumble bee in the back. I replaced the u-joints but there was no change. Took the prop shaft to our local drive line shop to check the balance. They discovered a tiny dent in one side that screwed up the balance. They re-tubed and balanced it. No more problems. I'm not suggesting your tube is bent but it is possible to bend them. Check the u-joints first. Especially the front one.

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