Mark Maras

I wouldn't go into the dist. Concentrate on changing ALL the valve seals without removing the head. We've come to the conclusion that one or both of the valve seals are leaking on #4, likely from improper installation. If one was damaged during installation, there's a good chance others were damaged too.

My 71 had two springs when I got it. I used to remove one spring during track days to speed up timing advance. The engine will work fine with one spring or two.

The head doesn't have to be removed to change the valve seals. You can do it.

I love the logo. Have you considered t-shirts?

Try searching on You Tube. There are some videos there about changing valve seals on L24s and L28s without removing the head and manifolds.

I'd submerge it in CLR for a couple of days. It does wonders on gas tank sending units.

There is the possibility that your boss loves Zs too. If he does, he may want to go with you.

On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

If you have any oil pan debris left, put a magnet on it to see if it's ferrous or not.

If I wrote a Z book it would contain all the dumb things I've tried and failed at or worse injured myself than helpful tips. Hmm. maybe combining both subjects, like, when you blow the caliper pistons out with air, after the first one comes out, DON'T stick your hand in the caliper to block air from escaping out of the open cylinder. A hand is an effective method to facilitate the removal of the other piston but the rest of the brake job is very slow and painful.

These carbs (SUs and Hitachis) usually run well with the mixture (nozzle) screws down 2 1/2 - 3 turns down from the top. An easy way to check your fuel level in the float bowl is to remove the domes and pistons, turn your mixture (nozzle) screws down 9 1/2 turns from the top. Your fuel level should be at or near the top of the nozzles.

Or lightly coat the part with grease, press it onto the gasket material and cut off the unstained parts.

I've used a cereal boxes, scissors and a hole punch for paper to make gaskets similar to that. I coat the gasket with a bit of oil and assemble. I've never had one fail.

Remove the dome and piston. The fuel level should be 3/8" down below the carb bridge. Turn the jet adjustment nut down 9.5-10 turns from the top position. The fuel level in the bowl should be at or near the top of the nozzle at 9.5 turns down. when you're satisfied with the float level return the nozzles to the appropriate height. Usually 2 1/2 - 3 turns down.

A boy on the front porch playing a banjo should be your first warning but barring that, Nothing ventured, Nothing gained. If you don't ask, you'll always wonder. Many of these old Zs are still sitting around because the owner loved Zs just like us. That's the common ground for a good conversation.