Mark Maras

I believe someone added the paint job and stickers to improve the looks of their wall art. If you value the paint and stickers keep it as is. If you clean it up, you'll have a normal valve cover.

My early 71 (late 70 build) valve cover had no coating.

Mine started missing at around 5000' (tuned at sea level). You'll know when to lean the carbs out 1/4 turn.

I'd continue on with liberal amounts of lacquer thinner. All that will happen is you'll remove the aluminum color spray paint and get down to the original finish which was bare aluminum. IMO, the stickers were added after the paint job.

Much better in the stock color.

Does the colortune change color (turn blue) as you try to accelerate and lose power?

Is it possible you blew (literally) the float out of adjustment. I'd double check it. You can compare fuel level one bowl to the other by removing the domes and pistons, pull the choke on and look down the nozzles to see if the fuel is the same level in both nozzles.

Describe the symptom that led you to believe the float valve was acting funny?

The fuel pressure should be between 3-4 psi. It'll run fine between 2 1/2 and 4 1/2 psi. Leaky float valve, stuck float, hi float level, sticking piston are the obvious possibilities. A few questions; Have you balanced the carbs? Does the float operate freely in the hanging position and does it shut the fuel supply off when it's lifted. Check it by blowing into the inlet while lifting the float. Was the old float needle the same length as the new one? How well does the engine idle, accelerate and run? What color are the plugs?

Looks very good. I'd say it's been apart twice before judging by the staked nuts. Take a good look at the brass synchro rings. The pointy end of the teeth should come to a sharp edge rather than be rounded over.

It looks like it's popping a wheelie. While not really liking it there was something about it that tugged at me. When I held my right index finger in front of that gaping chasm behind the front wheel, a gorgeous car came into view.

I seem to remember someone using braided steel cable to clean the lines. He inserted the cable all the way thru the line, frayed one end of the cable. hooked a drill motor to the other end and with the drill motor running he slowly pulled the cable back thru the line. I've not tried it but it sounds like fun.

I've purchased a few window handle clip removal tools over the years. None of them worked as well as a cloth shop rag slipped behind the handle (knob in the upright position) and pulled down until it contacts the ends of the clip. Then pulling the rag side to side will grab the end of the clip and pull it off.

If you're using ATF, use 20wt. If you're using 20wt. use 30wt. The brand doesn't matter. Be sure to tell us of any changes.

Thicker oil will richen the fuel mixture under acceleration.