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EuroDat last won the day on August 31

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    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. I ended up draining the radiator, removed the top hose from the radiator and the top section of the fan shroud. With the car's scissor jack under the engine, I could lower the rear of the engine and that gave me more room to get the bellhousing under the firewall.
  2. Hi tool man, 1: Yes. You will need to drill an extra hole to fix the bumper side arms. I don't have any photos of that part modification. I was at the stage where I just wanted to finish it. The hole is about 100mm in front of the 280Z bumper hole IIRC. I can check mine, but it would be better to measure and determine the position in your own situation. 2: yes. It will fit under the gap shield. Not sure how that will look though.
  3. The aftermarket throttle bodies are made for after market ecu like megasquirt etc. Then you have the ability to tune for performance and the extra capacity the throttle body can give. If you don't want to use your flywheel, you could buy one that is already lightened. There are still companies out there thaf lighten them. Zcardepot sell one variant.|Make:Datsun&epid=1545121518&hash=item4b63ef8bcb:g:UscAAOxy039TKLJl&redirect=mobile They are all around thd $350 - $400 mark. I don'tknow if buying a new flywheel and having it lightened would be any cheaper. You would need to find someone with experience in these flywheels. Plenty of suppliers with kits including the flywheel.|Make:Datsun&hash=item4d9230a1da:g:qBIAAOSwXNdcXLKm&redirect=mobile Be carefull when buying a flywheel. You don'twant the one for the nissan trucks (D21) etc. The flywheel is heavier at around 28lbs. Not what you want.
  4. If you want throttle response, you won't get much by doing that, if any at all. These old efi systems don't like alterations much at all. It unbalances the components and the ecu can not compensate. It doesn't "learn and adjust" like newer sysrems can. Changing to a sport air filter or a larger exhaust system can help a bit because they are outside the components and could be restricting the flow, but extractors can change the scavenge of exhaust gases and that could have a negative effect. The easiest why to improve throttle response on these ols efi systems (without changing ecu, cam, head etc) is a lightened flywheel. The standard flywheel is 23lbs. If you get one that has been lightened to 16-18lbs or lighten the one you have, it will repond a lot more the the throttle. Or an aluminiun, but they are around 11lbs and that will reduce drivability a lot. Some people don't have any problem with the touchy throttle. You could match that to a 240mm clutch out of a 280Z(X) 2+2 or a 280ZX turbo clutch. That would gain a little weight over the standard clutch and would give you a heavy duty clucth with a light peddle. Not trying to be negative, but a lot of changes often make the engine sound better and we think that makes it faster, but it's often our mind playing tricks on us. That sounds fat cool, so it must be faster. If I change anything to my car, I go to a quiet road near home and do a simple test. I drive at at a certain speed, say 20 mph and give full throttle till it reaches 70 mph. Don't change gears during the test.. Have a friend (or my wife, if she is in the mood to waste time helping me on this thing) video the speedo and tacho and compare that with the results after you do the mods. If the time reduces, than you made an improvement. You can plot the speed versus time in excel and get a kind of power curve. Plot both before and after and you can see if it improved in certain areas of the rev curve.
  5. The BK-104 kit will work. It comes with two front bearings, or it use to anyway. The 63/22 C3 for the 71A & 71B and the larger bearing for the 71C.
  6. Looks like a neat job you did on it Jim. Your car looks brilliant.
  7. Interesting. Thanks fof sharing. Can you post a photo of the new canister set-up?
  8. I'm not sure what the white "Carb" line was meant for either. In all the parrs manuals, they are capped off. The spare one I have is from a 260Z I believe. Anyways, if it's capped off it should work fine.
  9. It should be ok. The 3 lines are the same on all the variants. Tube layout. Yellow: Distributor vacuum. Green: Purge Blue: Fuel tank White: Carbs. This is for the 240Z, 260Z carb models and also fitted to the early 280Z, but then with a cap p/n: 14964-F1700. The three tube variant part numbers: 14950-N4800 and 14950-P8200 (280ZX) The four tube variant part numbers: 14950-N3600 and 14950-N4200 (early 280Z)
  10. Yeah, but I don't think my wife would let me lose in there, since I have collect a lot of just in case parts over the years, but I can still dream about it....
  11. I think 90% of the time I use my tablet to access the site. Theother 10% is to dig up a pdf and post for someone. I don't use the app, just the normal desktop version. If I'm on holiday, I'll use the app on my mobile, but I prefer the desktop version. Sorry, I'm old school. Nice work Mike. Appreciate it👌
  12. Btw. Wayne rightfully deserves all the credit for that wiring diagram. I'm just babysitting.
  13. Welcome to the forum. If you need help, this is the place to be. I'm with @Patcon on the poly bushing kits. It makes the ride a lot harsher. I can personally vouch for that and still regret changing certain (mustache bar) components. It does handle better, I give it that, but the ride certainly got a lot harder and anything that could rattle did after the swap. If you do go poly and the mustache bar bushes are in good condition, my advice; look for another mustache bar to fit the poly bushes. Those original bushes are NLA (no longer available) and if your car has 38k chances are they will still be in good condition. They will be one of those hard to get parts in the future. If you want to chance the bumpers, there are some god threads on this site to help you. Plenty of other things to attend to before tackling that. Goodluck and enjoy.
  14. Look good Mike. I like it.👍