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EuroDat last won the day on August 31 2019

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    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. Another thing to check. It doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but the stopper guide pin is a common source for oil leaks. I use a silicone type sealant suitable for oil environments to cover the exposed ends of the pin and create a good seal.
  2. The movement you see the your video is normal. The hole "bushing" where the selector shaft goes through in not a tolerance fit. It has a large clearance so splash oil can pass through to the striking guide and striking rod contact points. When the transmission housing is bolted together and the striking rod is supported by the front housing section the excessive movement will be gone. Did you have this problem before the rebuild? Did you replace any parts in the reverse gear section? Like Dave mentioned. Is the selsctor rod hitting and binding in the striking guide? Other things that can cause difficult shifting: - Tolerances in new parts - Bent selector fork rods - Worn or damaged interlock springs or balls. See SMT137
  3. I'm wondering why you want to go with a R200. Is something wrong with the original 240Z R180? You could consider a Subaru Impreza WRX STI R180 with a 3.9 ratio.
  4. Yeah, that is the problem with jerks. They seem to be sprinkled all over the place. Given enough time and you will find them.
  5. I have some friends in the hunter valley area up near Muswellbrook and Maitland. They are still fighting fires in the area. My mate is a volunteer SES'er, but spent the last 3 weeks helping the rural fire brigade.
  6. Is it just an engine conversion or also including a body kit? In the photo it is not so clear what you are getting and it looks like some parts are already used. I don't think there was a truly standard Scarab model. You basically ticked off all the options you wanted and they converted a 240Z or your own car. You could also do it yourself. Can you post more photo's for prosperity. It's the first time I have seen the parts not installed on a car.... You never know, someone might want to make a kit based on the parts in question.
  7. I think that spade connector is a legarcy from the early Bosch system they used in the first 280Z's I have seen it on an Alfa over here.
  8. I would definitely consider using a relay system running through the oil pressure switch for safety reasons. Maybe a dual relay. One to run the pump during cranking and after the engine starts it would run on the second relay.
  9. You can remove the EFI harness completely, but you will need to make a relay setup to run the original fuel pump and use the oil switch to activate the fuel pump. If you do use the original fuel pump, how do you plan to regulate the fuel pressure? I concur with the above. Change one thing at a time otherwise you will have issues and won't know where to focus your attention.
  10. When you heat it, try to heat the aluminium and don't point the flame at the plug. You want the aluminium to warm up and expand and reduce the contact stress.
  11. I think I would try priming the system through the oil sender switch port. Removre the oil sender switch and find a fitting that will fit. Any pump will do to pump some oil in. Even a simple bicycle pump will do. I don't think you need a new pump because it has been sitting for a while. It is just being difficult to prime after sitting so long.
  12. I did the same when I bought mine back to life after 19 years. Removed the spark plugs so the starter had an easier job turning the motor. It took about 4 x 10 - 15 second goes to get the oil up to the cam.