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EuroDat last won the day on October 21 2016

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  • About My Cars
    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. EuroDat

    78 280 Re-Assembly

    This is a photo of the earlier Californian "6 terminal" E12-12A This is the 78 model E12-27 with the terminal block. Greg, if you have this one you don't need a ballast resistor. It should have a 12 volt coil.
  2. EuroDat

    78 280 Re-Assembly

    They went to 12v coils in 7/77 or there abouts, Im going from memory here. The TIU would then be the E12-27. The E12-27 has a 6 pin plug with 5 wires. The earlier 77 models used the E12-12A with 6 screw terminals for the single pick-up distributor in the Californian models. The Fed models used the E12-13 with dual pick-up distributor. It has 7 screw terminals. Both the E12-12A and the E12-13 use a ballast resistor.
  3. EuroDat

    Lowering Bottom Spring Perch

    If you want to lower the car 1". You don't need to do any mods to the rear strut perches. You can simply change the insulator to the 240Z type which is the same height as the front. That will lower it 25mm. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20m01a/23-4370 The only real strut mod would be the front strut towers.
  4. EuroDat

    Lowering Bottom Spring Perch

    I have done this on a Ford Escort mk1 years back and it worked well. Never had any problems with it and I drove it 85k km.
  5. EuroDat

    Lowering Bottom Spring Perch

    Wow. I am considering doing the same thing since removing the bumpers. My plan was to lower it 3/4" to get back to its original height with the bumpers. I don't think it will be a problem witn bottoming out because I will be going back to "normal height". I don't like cutting the springs because that will make the ride hasher. Cutting springs reduces the spring length and its flexability. Aftermarket springs wil lower it, but how much? The procedure I wss thinking of using is this: 1. Make a jig. A ring that fits snug over the tube and three rods from the ring tack welded to the spring perch. 2. Measure ring distance from top of tower. 3. Carefully grind the spring perch weld away until perch is free. 4. Lower the perch X mm and check it doesn't retate on the tube. 5. Reweld perch. 6. Grind tack welds free from perch and remove jig. 7. Repeat.
  6. EuroDat

    Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    I would be happy not rolling the panel lip. Makes it hard to clean and the dirt build up is a moisture trap for rust to start. Only takes a scratch in the coating..... Mine sits about the same height. It lifted half an inch when I removed the bumpers. Yours should drop a bit with the bumpers on. The height works good for me. We have some awful speed bumps in our area. The wifes mini cooper keeps bottoming out on them all the time.
  7. EuroDat

    Cowl Hood Weatherstripping

    Agree. Looks more like the one in front of the radiator.
  8. EuroDat

    SS Bumpers from Vietnam

    Jim, It's a shame the quality control hasn't ironed out all the problems before they started marketing them. Fuotfab was/is a good alternative. The harringtons are very good, but pricy. I will watch your progress with the vietnam bumpers with much interest.
  9. EuroDat

    280Z Running Rich - Fouling Plugs - HELP!!

    When you get this problem solved, replace the Champion plugs with NGK's. You will notice the difference.
  10. EuroDat

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    Its all been mentioned, but from the photo it looks like your lower control arm is not horizontal and pointing downwards. That will effect the angle of the link bolt and point it towords the wheel and away from the swaybar eye. The swaybar is flexable to a certain degree to absorb all the in and outwards movements caused when the lower control arms go through their radius. You will find it easier to fit if you adjust your coilover until the lower control arms are horizontal. Make sure the link bolt is not too tight so you can manouver it through the swaybar eye. Btw. Your set up looks neat.👍
  11. EuroDat

    Bumper conversion brackets for 280Z to 240Z small bumpers

    @Bigstauf Ill send you a pm. @AdamSozay The original bolts on the front bumper are about M10x30mm. 3/8" should work too.
  12. EuroDat

    L24 w/1mm bore. Will N42 head work?

    I have heard the 1mm oversize is not a problem with the 35mm exhaust valve, but I would still do what Siteunseen mentioned and test it for myself. Notching is not hard to do and on a 1mm oversize it would be minimal. I would prefer the N42 head ovrr the L26 E88. The L26 E88 head has emmision chambers and is considered the lesser of the E88 heads. They made some improvements to the chambers on the N42 when they went over to efi.
  13. Good find. And you had to go to Europe to find them. Lol.
  14. EuroDat

    Best Source for preshaped 240 hoses?

    Found it. In Post nr. #129 Hardway changed the vac hose using this method. You could ask him what his experience with this is. @Hardway @Mike This thread might be better in the "help me" forum section? Since it is not really a tech guide atm anyway.
  15. EuroDat

    Best Source for preshaped 240 hoses?

    There is a small company here that makes hoses to suite. They don't actuallt preform the rubber hose, but instead they insert a thin walled copper tube. Then they bend the hose to the shape you want. I have seen someone on this forum do it with his vac hoses to the brake booster using a similar method. Trying to remember his name🤔. It will come back to me aventually....

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