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EuroDat

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EuroDat last won the day on August 11 2020

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About EuroDat

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    Noord Brabant, NL

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    280z
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    Porsche Boxter S, 3.4ltr
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. I googled "datsun 240Z slave cylinder" to check what was availabe. The first hit was a shocker from a webshop for Z parts. The parts are a mix match of the early and later types. Here they show a later type slave cylinder without the spring anchor point (red circle) and the non adjustable push rod (blue circle). Then they simple supply a spring (green circle) and describe is as early OEM nos parts. Early looks like this: Later type looks like:
  2. If you use the later version with the adjustable push rod, adjust the push rod as follows. 1. Assembly slave cilinder with push rod. NO return spring. 2. Adjust the pushrod until there is no free play. 3. With your hand behind the clutch fork push the push rod into the slave cilinder. It should travel approximatly 10 to 15 mm Into the slave cylinder. See diagram distance "S". Note: S is not 35mm. That is slave cylinder stroke or travel. 4. Adjust the push rod until this S distance is reduced 2 to 5mm. It must not bottom out. 5. Lock the push tod locking nut.
  3. It's been a while since I had an early version in my hands, but I'm fairly certain the tab is on the end of the slave cylinder and irrelevant to which bellhousing is used.
  4. You can use either, the function is the same, but you will need to adjust to early version occasionly or DON'T use the return spring on the later version. The later version self adjusts internally and the return spring will disable that function. You can use the adjustable push rod without the return spring.
  5. Where does he get the time for this? I like his creativity.
  6. The NAP-Z is a North American Production Z series engine. Not sure why they made an American dedicated Z series. It's tilted to reduce height for the 720 trucks etc. Some people say it is to clear the brake booster, but I think that is more a coincidence on the RHD cars. The brake booster is on the other side in LHD cars.
  7. If the FS5W71B is out of a ZX coupe, dan most probably a "close ratio" and wel worth getting for $100. You won't find much use for the 71C stubby.. If it came out of a truck, than it bolted up to a Z series motor. They have the same bell housing bolt pattern as the L series but tilt the other direction. Here is a simple instruction to help identify the 71B. And the bell housing pattern.
  8. My Zed has 14" wheels running 185/70R14 tyres and getting older. I have been looking for alternatives, but a lot of the info is blocked here. Very unsatisfying🤐 Steve, can you post more info on the tyres?
  9. Not sure, but is the dowel in far enough? I thought the dowel shoulder was flush with the flywheel surface. The shoulder prevents the dowel falling out once the pressure plate is fitted. Now the pressure plate is riding on the dowel shoulder.
  10. Not sure, but is the dowel in far enough? I thought the dowel shoulder was flush with the flywheel surface. The shoulder prevents the dowel falling out once the pressure plate is fitted.
  11. Use this tyre size calculator to calculate the diameter, width, sidewall, circumference, and revolutions per mile of any tyre. Just type in a metric or standard size tyre and click calculate. Inch measurement tyres are fairly easy to understand however metric tyres use a more difficult system to read. The first number on a metric tyre is the width. Divide this by 25.4 to get inch equivalent. The third number generally preceded by an "R" is the wheel diameter. The sidewall and aspect ratio are used in metric sized tyres to determine the overall height of a tyre. The second number on a metric tyre is to calculate the side wall measurement. The sidewall height is a percentage of the width of the tyre. This second number is that percent. The sidewall height or "aspect ratio" of a 285/75/R16 tyre is 75% of 285mm.
  12. The Engine Design Utility is designed to allow you to quickly try different engine part combinations, using your own specified components
  13. I was referring to the photo, but see now that he also posted a photo out of the fsm for the early type. If they start to clog up they can be a pita to reset. I think they may have removed the springs to stop the switch resetting before you fixed the problem. The springs would reset the switch when you released the brake pedal. Mine activates when I bleed the brakes, but resets after and I press the pedal down a thew times. If you can't get it to reset after repairing/replacing the faulty component, you can open a bleeder on the other section of the braking system, then slowly p
  14. Something I have not tried, but know people that have done it. You can cut a thread in the cone section with an M3 tap, I believe, and use a M3 screw to pull it out with a claw hammer for example. The flare on the pipe is large enough that the thread will not effect its sealing. Like I said, never done it, but know of two peolle that have done it with no issues.
  15. In the first post Seppi72 shows a photo of the later type. They don't have springs.
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