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EuroDat last won the day on May 7

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    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
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  1. If the rest of the diff is in good working order, you can fix this problem by replacing the thrust washers with a thicker spec washer. The clearance should be 0.1 to 0.2mm. You will need to remove the centre and the ring gear. Then you can tap out the roll pin (27) and pin (23) will tap out easily. The thrust washers are (26). Someone might want it or it could be a good spare.
  2. It's most probably caused by excessive end play in your spider gears. Thats the 4 gears in your diff centre. The two larger gears (where the axles slide into) will move back and forth. It's caused by the wear in the thrust washers behind gears. They can wear, especially when people do one wheel burn out. My excusses for my poor drawing talent on a tablet. The arrows are the back and forth movement and circles are where the thrust washers are located.
  3. Jason, Congrats with the progress you are making, specially with set backs you had with painting. I'm impressed with the mustache bar rubbers find. They are rare items these days. Last time I heard someone finding a nos set was back in 2014. I like your caliper/disc combination. That is a nasty little crack in the steering rack. I have never seen one crack like that. Most just worn out internals.
  4. You will feel a little more engine vibration through the trany mount with PU bushes. It's no where near as bad as the mustache bar insulators on the diff. For street cruising I would keep the transmission cross member and mustache bar mount original or find a good donor car to replace them like I did. I tried PU on them and now back to the original style
  5. Thats a neat brake conversion. I see the big bore master cylinder and parts to convert the discs, but no parts for the rear. What did you do to maintain balance with the rear and what is your set-up for the rear? You could probably remove the balance valve internals altogether now you have so much braking power on the front. I'm running porterfield R4-S pads and shoes on a standard set-up and very happy with the results. The car is only used for street driving. PS: The air intake mod looks great. First time I have seen that on a SU set-up.
  6. It will be drivable, but you will shift up to second a lot early than you are use to. Hill starts are going to be a lot easier;) If it is temperary I wouldn't worry about it much. You did grt the speedo gear when you picked up the tranny diff combo? You need the white one with 19 teeth. See attachment. The guys in the 620 trucks don't know any better. Thay have the earlier pre 1977 280Z 4 speed with the 3.592:1 first gear and a 4.375 diff. So a 3.321:1 with a 3.9 diff is tall but not the worst combination you could come up with. There are people that use the close ZX transmission with the R180 diff and 4.11 gead setup. Thats close to what you will have in first gear. My quick calulations with 14" wheel and tyres with a diameter of 620mm (my situation) you will have a speed 31.62km/hr @ 3500 rpm compared to the original setup 34.79km/hr @ 3500 rpm. You will loose about 10% on speed. Thats basd on the final ratio of 11.77 for the 3.545 diff and 12.95 for the 3.90 diff, and the distance of 1.95mtr travelled per revolution.
  7. The 620 used the L16, L18 and L20. They have the same bolt patern and bolt position as the L28. It will bolt in, but first gear will be very low. I think the 620 has a 1st : 3.592:1 280Z 1st : 3.321:1 280ZX 1st : 3.062: 1
  8. EuroDat

    Used 5 speed

    Like Dave and Zed head have already said. If you can crack it open and visually inspect the synchro teeth, that will give you a vry good indication of its condition. If you can not (not allowed) open the transmission case, it will always be a gamble. A shot transmission can feel very good when turning it by hand I have a list of all the normal wear parts and the rear extension house bush part number and manufacture. Most of the parts are still available through Nissan or aftrrmarket.
  9. Here is a simple excel file that shows the different speeds per transmission/diff ratio. Calculate ratios 01.xlsx
  10. Things to consider if you don't want to spend a lot of time working on the car and still want a 5 speed. Look for a 5 speed out of a 280Z or a 280ZX 2+2. They are both "wide ratio" FS5W71B transmissions. It will give you a first gear that is fairly close to your 4 speed. Still high, but close. The 280ZX Coupe "close ratio" FS5W71B will feel like you skipped first gear and started off is second. Try that with your 4 speed and see how it feels to start off in second gear. The next step would be to look for any 240Z, 260Z or a the 280Z after 77 with an automatic transmission. They have a 3.545:1 R180 diff and it is a direct replacement for you 3.364:1 R180. The 5th gear will still be taller than the original 4th, improving highway fuel economy, and give you better off the mark performance. They are the quick and easy mods. I can post an excel file on the ratios later when I am home if you want them. If you go "close ratio" then you will want to change the diff to something like the R200 3.7:1 or 3.9:1, but that is a more involved mod.
  11. That is correct. You also need to make special brackets to mount the top section. It is actually better to make a grill out ot the 280Z grill parts and the bars and top brackets from the 240Z. I extended the grills I made to fill the gap under the bumper. I am thinking about redoing mine after improving the design on the last two. If you go to page two in my thread, from post 28 onwards, you can see the alterations. You could also use the Skillard grill. I sent my brackets to a couple members so they could fit those grills. If anyone wants info in that, just send a pm. https://skillard.com/products/datsun-280z-front-grill-with-turn-signal-delete https://skillard.com/products/datsun-240z-front-grill
  12. If you need any tips, info or photos, ask away.
  13. Grill: Yes, Bug will need some modifications. Valance: No 240Z indicator: Possible. With air-dam. To fit a 240Z grill you need to remove the 280Z indicators and preferably the supports. The two outer sdctions of the valances will fit, but the valance center section is too high and hit the frame section undrr the larger 280Z radiator. If you use an air-dam for the 240Z, you can fit the 240Z indicators. The air-dam is low enough the cover the frame and doesn't curve back like to original valance. If you go this route, don't forget to get the two 240Z wiring harness with lamp socket. They ard different to the 280Z and the sockets won't fit. How do I know all this. Been there, done that..... Here is my thread on it. Success.
  14. Welcome to the club. The number on the transmission doesn't mean much. It's the batch number for the transmission housing. They probably could track components with that number back then, but that information is long gone. If it's a manual 4 speed, then you will have a F4W71B transmission. The original 5 speed is FS5W71B and often referred to a the "wide ratio" 5 speed. Chas How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (2) (1).pdf
  15. Not sure what you are referring to: Use original bumpers? You could, but it's just hard finding a good set of 70-72 240Z bumpers. They are getting harder to find, in good condition. For as little as $500 you can have a new aftermarket set. Or fitting 240Z bumpers: The 280Z frame mounting points are different to the 240Z. You can not use the 240Z mounting brackets. There are brackets available to fit 240Z bumpers to a 280Z. I make them for starters.
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