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EuroDat last won the day on August 11 2020

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    Noord Brabant, NL

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    Porsche Boxter S, 3.4ltr
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  1. Xenonzcar doesn't have the 71A. I don't know where you can find one these days. They were available, but I never downloaddd it. You are one of the thew that wants to rebuild a F4W71A. I'm no an 71A expert, but I think the sleeves and selector forks are interchangable and the sleeves reversable on the 71A. That is not the case with the 71B.
  2. Those marks are only wear marks from the circlips. That is most probably why they changed the design to springs under the shifting inserts in the B version. I don't see any serious issues in the photos. The way the syncho works is simple. This is a basic description of how they work. The shifting inserts are pushed into the outer hub by the circlip or springs. The outer hub is held in the correct position by the selector and selector detent ball/spring. The shifting inserts insert into the three tabs cut outs in the synchro ring and lock it with the hub. The synchros turn with the hub. Wh
  3. The needle bearings in the gears look good. That dull colour on the shaft is slight wear, but not excessive damage. It's normal. The are actually 3rd, 2nd and 1st. 4th is a direct drive through to the input shaft and doesn't have any reduction though the cluster shaft. The photo looks like the 3rd gear needle (left side row) shows signs of blueing which could be a sign of excessive heat build up. Are all the hub, sleeve and shifting inserts ok? How was the circlip holding the 3rd/4th hub? And the end clearance to the circlip?
  4. It looks like it is an issue with the third gear. Its you have no end play in the main shaft it is not the ball bearing in the adapter plate. The needle bearing between the input shaft and main shaft shows some wear, but it's not causing any problems. I'm not and expert on the 71A transmissions, but most of the components are very similar to the 71B used in the 720 trucks and the later Zeds. The next step I would take is to dismantle third gear. You will need to remove the cluster shaft front bearing and front gear, which is held on with a circlip, to be able to remove the input shaf
  5. I have some questions and test, but now the transmission is out and dismantle, I hope you can varify some. 1. Was there enough clearance between the tunnel and monkey motion when in third gear? Sometimes the selector stick can hit the bodywork, mostly after some kind of modification. 2. If you held the gearstick, did the sound change in tone, reduce or stop? 3. Was it always in third through the whole rev range? Yes the frequency will increase with revs, but did the cluck maintain the same? Clunking at 1500rpm was dubbled at 3000rpm. 4. Was the clunk during full acceleratio
  6. The bearing is ok. Your problem is elsewhere and now to find it.
  7. I now have read through this thread and what you are describing sounds like a failed neddle bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft. 3rd gear puts the most strain on that needle bearing. If it starts giving problems, then 3rd will show it first. It will be interesting to see what the bearing looks like.
  8. Hi AnvilZ, The movement you show in the video is not a problem. It is normal for the input shaft to move back and forth like that once it is removed from the transmission case. The input shaft is actually held in position by a outer circlip on the bearing. You removed the circlip to dismantle the transmission. The main (output) shaft should not move like that. If it does, then your centre bearing in the adapter plate has collapsed. The bearing kit for the FS5W71B will not work on the F4W71A. Different bearings. I have the bearing numbers somewhere, but it has been 7 o
  9. I was led to believe that the filter would bypass at around 7 to 15psig (0.5 to 1.0BarG). If the differential pressure reaches 7 to 15psi the bypass will open accordingly. It is just a spring valve and not a calibrated releif valve. It is not uncommon for a percentage of the oil to bypaas the filter depending on viscousity, oil temperature, pumped volume and degree of clogging in the filter. The oil pressure (85psi) you are reading doesn't say much about the bypass. A new engine can have higher pressure due to the finer tolerances creating more backpressure. I think I would cut the f
  10. Like zKars said, there is a thread that details methods to remove it. I have used a small massive hammer, one with as much weight as possible and small. Unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the thread. Tap it with the hammer until it comes loose. If it won't release than add heat to the striking lever area around the pin and tap it out. Don't heat the pin. You wont the lever to expand, but not the pin itself. If you damage the pin, you can still get them through Nissan or local parts store. I think the size is 9.5mm IIRC. Ask for a 9.5mm cotter pin.
  11. If you are using a Fidnaza flywheel it wont make any difference which pressure plate you use. Both the 225mm and 240mm will fit the Fidnaza flywheel. The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts, but I have heard only 6 are used on the Fidnaza flywheel. I am using a 280ZX 2+2 (240mm) lightened flywheel to about 16lbs and a stansard 240mm clutch. Works great and has a light feel.
  12. Thanks for sharing. I can only fit the belt on my hitachi compressor by removing the adjusting pulley, fit the belt and then insert the adjusting pulley and retighten. The tensionef is then about half way when the belt is tensioned. My belt may be one size to small.
  13. Well done. I like they way you managed to keep the original bracket and adjusting pulley. I have seen other aftermarket options where the compressor moves to tension the belt. Not much space down there for that kind of adjustment.
  14. Hi Dave, Just went through my notes and you are correct. I found a formula: R12 charge x 0.9 - 0.12kg = R134a charge. It is an approximate calculation and generally results in 70 to 85% of the original charge. Ex. 1.2kg R12 x 0.9 = 1.08 - 0.12 = 0.96kg R134a (80%) Like I said, NO expert here......
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