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EuroDat last won the day on August 11 2020

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    Porsche Boxter S, 3.4ltr
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  1. I wouldn't weld it. It could make the chipping worse. The chips are not as bad as I thought they were. I assure I have seen worse and they worked fine for thousands of miles without giving any trouble. The most I would do is clean them up a little with a dremel grinder. Be a little carefull using reverse and definitely don't try pulling it into reverse while the car is still rolling forward. The most probable cause of those chips is people hitting reversewhen they come outof 5th to go back to 4th. It tends to happen more when the selector bushes are worn. That is why they a
  2. That is unfortunate. Good you checked that before ordering the parts. I was hoping the slider would match, but that kit is for a C version and later versions seem to have "improvements" that look very much the same but not... Can you post a couple of photos showing the chipped section of the idler gear? It's is good to check if they are just chips and not shattered. From what I remember it wasn't that bad so it should clean up ok.
  3. I corrected that in my FSM and posted it in a thread here somewhere 3 or 4 years ago. The problem I had was the original document has a password. I could not change it or add any comments. To get around that I printed it and scanned it in. The only problem with that is you loose quality of the whole document or increase file size considerable just to fix two diagrams (this one and another on the following page). Thinking about it, I could make it a supplement document with just those two pages. Then you can download the two MT documents and if you decide to print them, simply replac
  4. My Samsung tablet is still the same.
  5. I'm on a android tablet 10.1 inch.
  6. Before it was full screen, but now Im getting thread info on right side and when you scroll down just blank grey space on the right.
  7. Well Charles. Hat off to your paitence and soldering on. If it was me I think I would have invented a thew new words in the process. The end result looks great.
  8. An alternative could be just replace the complete reverse gear setup. The kit for the 4 cylindrr FS5W71C uses a 21T reverse idler, so you will need the slider and cluster gear. Complete for US $79. I'm almostcertain the splines on the cluster and the inner teeth on the slider are the same on the 71B and 71C, but just to be sure, count the the inner teeth on the slider and the splines on the cluster gear. https://cobratransmission.com/nissan-fs5w71c-4-cylinder-reverse-gear-kit-50042095-1 The other alternative is to have the teeth ground down and de-burred/rounded, but it is a lo
  9. Looking at your photo. I see a Circlip between the input shaft bearing and gear. I shouldn't be there. It should be on the outside of the bearing. Gear - Bearing - Spacer ring - circlip. See exploded view pos#1. The circlip between gear and bearing will push the bearing out too far and the bearing cover will then push on the outer circlip and the input shaft will bind up on the main shaft. The input shaft is held in position by the circlip on the outside of the input shaft bearing. It has absolutly no pre load and without the circlip, you can push it into the gearbox a mm or so. Che
  10. Yes, 240mm has the 9 bolts. The fandanza flywheel is for both 225 and 240. I think the difference in the 240mm clutch kits is the 280Z/ZX 2+2 and the 280ZX Turbo. The 2+2 used a 71B wide ratio gearbox and the Turbo used the BW T5 and clutch disc to suit.
  11. I think there are some minor casting differences between the 240Z and the 260Z/280Z calipers, but they all use the same revision sets, brake pads and the pistons are the same. With the pistons and brake pads being the same, you should not have any issues using any combination of calipers. Aftermarket kits have the sealing ring between the halfs, but Nissan does not supply them. Same for the chewed up bolt holding the two halves together. If you want to rellace it you will be in the aftermarket parts. Nissan reccomends replacing the complete caliper if you need split then apart for an
  12. Augh, thats why I didn't understand all the commotion in this thread
  13. I went for a standard 280zx 2+2 clutch and a lightened flywheel out of the same car. That gave me a normal clutch peddle feel, but with a heavy duty clutch. I think the Fidanza is about 11lbs compared to 23lbs for the original 225 and 240mm flywheels. The Fidanza will be touchy off the mark. My flywheel is about 16lbs, but the 240mm clutch is a little heavier than the 225mm. It doesn't add any horsepower, but certainly adds to the driving pleasure.
  14. Btw. The brass bushes will rattle if you have play in the pin. That is why I don't reccomend them. If you are doing anything with the selectors, I would change the checking springs (32831N) and the seals. The oil seal and o-ring in the speedo adapter. Basically all the seals and o-rings would be on my list. You might want to give the transmission a bearing kit. That would be the time to do all the seals. Like Dave said, check the play in the rear bush before you do anything with the transmission. Nissan don't sell them, but you can order a replacement through Omega Machin
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