EuroDat

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EuroDat last won the day on August 31 2019

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About EuroDat

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    Kaatsheuvel

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    280z
  • About my Cars
    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. What about the steering column coupling. That has been NLA for years, 10 years at least. Trying to find a NOS or near new condition example is like trying to find a wholly mammoth. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column/28
  2. M6x1.0 bolts. IIRC You will only get 4 or 5 turns into the pulley before it bottoms out against the timing chain cover.
  3. We are talking about replacing the original bushing with something that has similar characteristics. We know the PU aftermarket bushings transfer a lot of diff noise to the body so making any bush out of PU doesn't seem to has any advantage. I have made PU insulators for the fuel lines and other stuff for my own 280Z, but getting it to hold to the metal components enough to take the stress would be hard to achieve. It would need to be a part from another car with a similar purpose. For example the original positon for the bolt was in the vertical position, otherwise it would probably fail quickly due to stress it was not designed for.
  4. I have a set spare thatcame off my 280Z. The spacing is 55mm. Total length is 158mm. Is that what you mean?
  5. I did a bit of searching and found the thread on the mustache bars where I had downloaded the photos for the 280Z bushes a couple of years back. . The thread was about the bushes and possible alternatives. @kats posted a lot of photos of all the different variations he came accross on page 2. These is also a tool on page 3 made by a someone back in 2011 to flare the outer ring over the mustache bar
  6. I think they started making for a time, but they stopped about ten years ago. Here is a photo of one and the box with part number.
  7. They are the correct part numbers. The top serrated washer is flat and the lower serrated washer is slighting concaved.
  8. I don't understand what you mean by pointing inwards. The outer sleeves on the original bushes were flared over the mustache bar, unless someone replaced them in the past and didn't flare it properly. Can you post a photo?
  9. The other thing you might want to know is the nut flats are 14mm opposed to the standard M10x1.5 nuts with 17mm flats. 17mm should still clear the bearing. The flat washer also has a small outside diameter OD: 16mm, ID: 10.2mm, thickness 2mm. The spring washer is normal size.
  10. The nut is a M10x1.25. The pitch is fine compared to the normal nuts (M10x1.5) you will fined in a hardware store. You best bet would be an autoparts shop or machine shop. You could ask a garage is you can hunt through a nut and bolts tin.
  11. Hi Doug, Wire the relay as follows. Relay terminal nr. 85 (Brown) goes to the positive side of the ignition coil ballast. Relay terminal nr. 86 (Blue) goes to the oil pressure switch. See photo with red circle for correct terminal. (Vertical terminal in "T" figure layout) Relay terminal nr. 30 (Yellow) can go to terminal 39 in the AFM harness Relay terminal nr. 87a (Black) then goes to terminal 36 in the AFM harness You will then need to re-connect the oil sender' remaining terminal to the original wire (Yellow/black) going to the oil guage.
  12. If you look at yhe circuit diagram here, the terminals form a "T". The vertical spade terminal will go to the switch. The other horizontal spade terminal will go to the guage. You need two spade terminals on the oil sender. They are two completely different circuits with differant functions. Yes the oil sender goes to ground through the threaded section. @Zed Head could be right. I'm not 100% on the 78. Mine is a 77. If that is true, instead of using the 87 terminal you can use the 87A terminal on the bosch relay.
  13. The first option is what you want. Replace the bullet with a insulated spade terminal. Use another spade terminal to ground the relay. You need the 78 oil pressure sender for this. The oil sender has one terminal with a varible resistance to ground which is determined by the varying oil pressure. The other spade terminal is a switch to ground and closes when the oil pressure reaches a determined set point. It is a safety feature. If the engine stops the pressure will drop and stop the pump.
  14. Btw. The terminal 87a is not used. Just fold that wire back over itself and tape into the harness.
  15. It doesn't have to be a Bosch relay. Any 5 pin relay will work. Easiest is to buy one with the harness plug. The relay in your screenshot will work, no problems. They call them bosch style relays, not necessarily a Bosch manufacured relay. https://heielectric.com/shop/electrical-products/relays/5-pin-relay-kit-12v-30amp In this example the 30 (yellow) would go to your trrminal 39. The 87 (red) would then go to terminal 36. The 85 (brown) would go to the ignition coil power and the 86 (blue) would go to the terminal on the oil sender. I would mount the relay close to the AFM , somewhere between the AFM and ignition coil. That way the wiring will be as shorg as possible and only one long wire to go over the engine to the oil switch. A 30A relay is overkill, but that is standard issue. You are only bridging the 36/39 terminals to activate a coil in the EFI relay very similar to the coil on the 85/86 terminals.