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EuroDat last won the day on August 11

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    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. Back when I did that (in 2012) most people were buying longer bolts that would stick out about an inch above the nut. The original bolt is long enough to get one full thread past the nyloc ring.
  2. Oh crap. Wrong photos. Now Ill try that again. You are wrong on with your comments about not fitting well. They do pull in with a little persuasion. I used a block of wood and a trolley jack to compress them enough and start the nut. See second photo. Another point. My kit was 4 rubbers and washers, simple bolt, nyloc nut and a spacer tube. If you tightened down hard , you could crush the rubbers completly. I tighted the nut until the rubbers started to bulge slightly. Checked them aftrr a couple of monthes and retightened a little where needed. I hope that makes some sense.
  3. The kit I used didn't have spaces in the rubber. It did have an extra waher and just one tube spacer between the swaybar and lower control arm. See Pos nr.9 & 14 in the Hyperflex dreak down photo. 280Z Hyper-Flex Kit.pdf
  4. Hi AK260, "I wish they weren’t storing the doors on the roof!" That is what I thought when I saw that photo. Ouch. "Forgive my ignorance but those round holes in the rear valence, were they for US style fat bumpers or are they exhaust exit holes?" Yep. They are indeed ugly bumper shock holes.
  5. You could try one of these. It replaces the N4700 which is the Californian variant of the N4200 https://www.stockwiseauto.com/standard-motor-products-vc351-distributor-vacuum-advance Standard VC-351 aftermarket versin for the 1977-78 280Z 280ZX en 810.
  6. I think if we are really honest, a lot of aftermarket parts are questionable when safety comes into play. Take a look at some of the so called brake upgrades and suspension kits. The brake kits are often proven parts in a tested design, but not when several parts out of different designs are combined to make an "upgrade kit". I think copying someone elses design would raise more ethical questions than strength of design.
  7. If you are talking about the basic kit, some people have commented having little improvement over the drum brakes and actually having problems via front and rear bias using the toyota 4-pot calipers up front. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21m/24-5581 It's more bling bling than an improvement. I have the standard setup with porterfiels pads AP114 RS-4 and shoes SHOE480 RS-4. Excellent result. Mho: The common problem with "street" brake conversions is the R&D in the particular conversion. Yes the parts individually are sound and reliable, but the combination and balance is based on sometimes as little as a couple of parking lot runs to determine balance between front and rear. In conditions like an emergency stop at 100km/hr they can react completly different. The standard system has gone through rigorous testing in the factory and years of custumer service. Restoring the brake system to original condition with better pad and shoe compounds is generally a better choice.
  8. OMG. Another canadian with a hobby tractor. Now the snow chains and the picture will be complete. Chris, The 500 is starting to come back to life in your caring hands. The parts are looking great.How is the body for rust? It looks good in the foto's, but we all know what happens when you start digging around.
  9. The transmission with the porsche type servo synchros are the 5 speed usded in the roasters (short tale) and the 240Z outside the US and Canada. They have the code FS5C71A and later the FS5C71B. The "C" refers to the type of synchro ring. W is for Warner type ring. Of course there are some exceptions along the way with both syncrhos in the 5 speed transmission. Then you can find the warner synchros in 1st to 4th gear and the servo type in 5th.
  10. It certainly sounds like your synchros are wearing down. Probably below minimum spec. A good oil could make all the difference. The GM AC delco oil suitable for brass synchros has yielded good results for some members here on this forum. That or Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 gearoil. Btw: The A type transmission (F4W71A) uses the same synchro rings in second gear as the F4W71B the FS5W71B and the early FS5W71C transmissions (the 71C without the reverse synchro). All four gear have the same synchros. Only fifth is little smaller in diameter.
  11. And to add to the confussion this is the genuine replacement harness from Nissan with P/N: 24079-U8700. It is actually for the later model 79-81 280ZX iirc. 280Z Original p/n was 24079 N4202 and 24079 N4203
  12. It is in the wiring diagram. You can find it here in Resources - downloads - wiring diagrams. The FSM in section EF - Engine fuel only shows the ECU terminal numbers for diagnostics. The diagrams start from page EF-24 and show the different tests in that section of the FSM.
  13. I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim. Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section. The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required. I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.
  14. That should solve your problem. That plate is spot welded to the inner body.
  15. Captain, Did you make any progress on this? Interested to see any results. I want to do that on my front struts and the bottoming issue will not be a problem for me because I'm correcting height gain from when I removed the 280Z bumpers. Height gain front was a little over an inch so I will be returning to the height before the bumper mod. Chucks idea of shortening the top insulator mount is interesting. I have a couple extra sets to play with, but reluctant to sacrifice a set. I would like to investigate the perch mod more.
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