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EuroDat last won the day on May 7

EuroDat had the most liked content!

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    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. Hey Len, @superlen How's life? Long time since we heard from you. Chas
  2. It's an art to be able to apply bondo so thick. He was probably a pastry chef in another life. That car is going to be quite a few kilos lighter when you a finished. Car is looking good and coming along nicely.
  3. I remember when you made that fuel rail @siteunseen. Neat job.
  4. No worries. Don't mess with a snake for my "nice to haves" I lost the 4 M4 clips when I cleaned up the garage. Made a kind of replacement, but would like the originals. The fuse holders look like they got really hot in the past and show signs of melting. Still work fine. Btw: Thanks for offering
  5. No worries. Don't mess with a snake for my "nice to haves" I lost the 4 M4 clips when I cleaned up the garage. Made a kind of replacement, but would like the originals. The fuse holders look like they got really hot in the past and show signs of melting. Still work fine.
  6. Yes exactly. That was my temporary fix until I made the strip for the resistor.
  7. If you want maximum spark then you should bypass the resistor. You can do that by bridging the terminals or taking the black/white striped wire and fitting it directly to the coil +. I wanted to keep the original look with the resistor in place but not having any function.
  8. Btw. The purpose of using an external resistor is to aid in starting. Specially in cold conditions. When the engine is cranking the battery voltage will drop to around 9 volts. The ignition switch will then bypass a section or the resistor completly given the coil a higher voltage (close to normal voltage) during starting.
  9. You shouldn't do anything to the wiring outside the TIU. If you want to bridge the resistor, just remove the front black/white stripe wire and fit it to the second last terminal (from the rear) which goes directly to the coil positive. I'm using that same coil. Flame Thrower 45011.
  10. I have a couple of things I would like to have. If it's not too much trouble. 280Z: - The two fusable link holders on the passenger strut tower with about 12 inches of wire. It's the bottom section od POS#17 in the parts list drawing. Don't need the plastic covers or the links. - Engine bay wiring harness staps that click into the panels. - The 4x M3 clips on the 280Z grill. It's where the vertical bar connects to the bottom horizontal bar.
  11. Hi Kyle, You can run the original coil with resistor, but you with reduce the current limiting feature in the HEI. Good observation. Yes the photo was with my original Beru coil which needs a external resistor. I ran it with the resistor (without the bridging strip) while waiting for the Flame thrower to come. Two days after that photo I changed coils. The important thing to remember is the HEI needs 12 volts. If you make a temporary set-up next to the coil for testing, make sure you use the 12 volt black/white stripe wire going to the resistor and not the reduced voltage after the resistor (between resistor and coil). If you are buyimg a new coil and plan on using a HEI module, I would suggest buying a 12v coil with .0.8 to 1.0 ohm coil.
  12. Yeah, Lenny had a new family member and project stalled.
  13. I agree. Put the nut back on just enough to cover the top threads. Tap it with a small hammer or similar. If it won't let go, you can try to heat the arm. DON'T heat the threaded bolt (coter pin). It should release easier then.
  14. I would stick with the 76 throttle body. The ZX butterfly is smaller and will restrict flow a little. Years ago there was a modification with a 60mm throttle body and the AFM from a toyota cressida. You had to solder the 280Z electronics into the toyota unit. A resistor in the temp sensor wire allowed you to, all be it little, adjust the ECU to compensate for the extra air flow. Tip: If you do these changes to a running engine. Check the performance before making the changes. The way I do it is this. - Pick a quiet road where you can safely drive up to 70 mph. - Drive in 4th or 5th gear at 25mph and accelerate to 60 or 70 mph. Don't change gear. - Have someone video the speedo and tacho while you do it and plot the values against time (seconds) in excel. That will give you a performance curve you can refer to after you do the mods.
  15. I think these tools are a good choice for spindle pins that are in any kind of salvageable condition. The spindle pin (drivers side) in those photos looks just like my drivers side spindle pin, but Careless' is a little rusty at the front lower control arm joint. I don't doubt the quality of the tool Careless made. It looks great and the bench vice square cut thread is the way to go for sure. The problem comes down to a really seized spindle pin will require so much force that the threads on the spindle or the tool, depending on hardnees of the threaded bar will give way and strip clean. Hardway documented his ordeal in his thread. I think my ealier post repeated my advice (post #7) in Hardways thread 6 years ago😁
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