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EuroDat

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EuroDat last won the day on August 11 2020

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About EuroDat

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    Noord Brabant, NL

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Porsche Boxter S, 3.4ltr
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.

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  1. Hi Doug, Koni started making their shocks for the 280Z again in 2019. There is a thread here all about it. You could get in contact with The Z store. See page 4 in the thread for their post on the 280Z shocks. They showcthe 280Z shocks on the site. @Joseph@TheZStore
  2. If the L24 is still ok and servicable, I would put it back together and run it like that until you know what you want to do. Like @Zed Head said, doing one mod without the other will not do much, but empty your wallet. I'd drive it around for a while, enjot it, and think about what you want from the engine. Then gather all the parts for an engine project. You could use the L26 as a starting point. I think the biggest buss for your money is a lightened flywheel. It doesn't add any horsepower, but it certainly gives a standard engine kick in the a$$ response. Very revvy and a little touches at the traffic lights, but managable once you get use to it. My wife keeps stalling mine, but then she refuses to drive it because it's got no power steering, no power windows, no power mirrors, blue tooth or navigation, this list goes on. Looks like you are having fun restoring it so far. It's your project, so you can do what you want when you. Just my 2 eurocents.
  3. I used a simple drill bit, but didn't go all the way through. Rolled the drill around while drilling to mill the spot weld away. Then pushing the sight shield up and down until it broke loose. No photos of that, but I do have some photos of the front 280Z turn signal brackets.
  4. Those support tabs on the sight shield have three and one tab even had four not so evenly spaced spot welds. I managed to remove mine without too much damage too it. I took some photos of mine a while back to help someone with removing the shield. Another interesting thing about the mounting of this shield is the dimples in the valance on the body. You can see their mark on the photo 2214. They are about 20mm in diameter and 2mm high. Located at every spot weld.
  5. I know this is essentually focused on the 240z, but a part that is becoming extreemly hard to fine in any condition is the 280Z bumper ends July 1976 onwards. Front right being the hardest to find 62850-N4700 and left side 62851-N4700. Right rear bumper end 85350-N4700 and left 85351-N4700
  6. Hi Joost, The difference between the models 280Z is Non-California model distributors up to July 76: Manual, D6F4-01, dual pickups. Auto, D6F4-02, dual pickups, same as 01, but has a different vacuum advance pot. There is a 6 degree phase difference between the pickups that is activated by a temperature switch. California model distributor: Manual & Auto use the D6F4-03, both with a single pickup. When the temperature switch activates the TIU changes from one pickup to the other to retard or advance the timing. If you use this distributor with the HEI module, then connect the red and brown or brown and green. The brown is the common wire between the two pickups. Connecting the red and green to the HEI will give you a dubble wave 6 degrees apart. After July 76 they all used the single pickup distributor and matching TIU. The 78 model uses a connector plug in the TIU and a 12 volt coil, no ballast resistor. I'm not sure what the resistor value is in the 78 tacho. Being a 12volt coil, it could have a higher resistance.
  7. Congrats, looks like a bargin. All depends what youwant to do about the seats. If you want to keep it original then you will ned to know the build date to fine the right seats. I wonder what the insurance company will consider as "cover". If you want originality, that can cost a lot. This site has a lot of options and if you call them, they should be able to help you. https://zcarsource.com/datsun-240z-parts/datsun-240z-interior-parts/240z-seats-upholstery/ A call out here in the wanted sections could find you a member wanting to part with a set.
  8. It came off a Datsun Silvia s110 (180SX) 1981 with the L18E engine. It may be on the smallist side.
  9. The engine looks like its been out in the elements for some time. The clutch should not be an issue because you are running the 240Z flywheel and a 280ZX transmission. Is this the motor I sent yhe intake for? If you plan to go efi, that is. Look like a fun build.
  10. Sounds like the guy was focussing on getting the job done, but mist bracing the tranny cross member and positioned the rails too far back. It certainly left you with some insteresting challenges. That is neat work on solving the transmission mount. You could shorten the drive shaft and use adjustable tc rods. Have you tried the steering rod to the rack and pinion. Going by all the other problems it will be the next.
  11. They are the ratios for the 79 to 6-80 280ZX coupe early close ratio 5 speed. Strange thing is the photos in your first post show the tell tale signs of a wide ratio. I was under the belief that the early close ratio boxes had the brass synchro. This project could shed a lot of light on this fairly rare transmission.
  12. Looking at the photo more closely, it looks like the bottom of the punch mark is protuding into the shaft. I can't remember every seeing a indent other than the notch. If there is a indent you would expect it to be exactly 180 degrees to the notch. Otherwise it would be difficult to locate where to punch it. The indent is not noticable outside the nut. I don't think it will be a problem. It's probably sheared off when it was removed the first time round.
  13. If you don't have something suitable, I would buy an el-cheapo screwdriver and grind it down to the same width as the groove and make the point more chissel like. With that you should be able to lift up the tab on the nut just enough so it won't tear when you unscrew it. They rearly damage the threads, but when the nut is hammered in like yours, you can tear that section out of the nut when you unscrew it. That is all you are trying to avoid with the screwdriver.
  14. Btw, That punch mark is the original nissan production method. The one that now holds the nut from turning is aftermarket rebuild.
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