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EuroDat

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About EuroDat


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EuroDat last won the day on August 11 2020

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    280z
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    Porsche Boxter S, 3.4ltr
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.
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  1. 1. It's not easy to test the condition of the bearings and gears with the transmission dismantled like that. It might be a bad bearing causing the hard spots. 2. The shafts tend to wobble around when they are free. The bearings have a clearance specification of C3. You will always see some side ways movement over a shaft more than a foot long and even more with worn bearings. While you dismantle the adapter plate check the bearings are clamped in place by the retainer plate. There should be no end play. 3. The nut should be tight. Loose is not good. To tighten the nut I bought a 38mm tube socket and welded an extra length tube on it and a 1/2" drive socket on it. Worked well.
  2. Yes, you MUST remove the circlip. The input shaft will not come off with the bellhousing because the input shaft spur gear (gear teeth for the 3rd/4th hub) is larger than the gear and hits the front cluster shaft gear. Once you remove the bellhousing, you can remove the front cluster shaft bearing and gear with a puller and some heat and then the input shaft will come free.
  3. Just posting a sceenshot of your PM message. It's good to post the result for others. Good or bad. Nice to hear it worked out.
  4. Thanks to Zed Heads work I found it in the carpartsmanual - cylinder head section, but little info about what it does. Thanks for the EGR info Dave👌. I was looking towards ZX, but should have been looking the other direction.
  5. I agree. I have seen it mentioned as a thermo switch for the airco in other threads, but I can't find anything about it in the AC wiring diagram. My 280Z has factory air and doesn't have the switch. Maybe @ennisdavis can tell us which L28 he is refering to. Could be something ZX....
  6. I believe the side sensor is for the factory airco on the 280Z. I can't find it in the wiring diagram.
  7. It really depends on the damage in the bearing itself. It dosn't sound like the cage (metal frame in the bearing that holds the balls evenly speced) has collapsed. More like the bearing is worn. If you look inside a bearing it should have shiny contact surfaces. In this case they would be dull and light grey in colour. This is caused by low oil level or contaminated oil not being changed in time. The other bearing that suffers in this case is the neddle bearing between the input shaft and main shaft. Buying an aftermarket kit is going to be fun. All the miss information possible. Really..... The 71C bearing kits are easy to find. Warning nothing after 1988. The early 71C kits will fit the 280Z. True, but the front counter shaft bearing in your transmission is 56mm OD. These kits supply the 62mm OD bearing for the FS5W71C. You can find the 71C kits easily and then order a separate 63/22N C3 bearing (63/22N). The kit for the 280Z is the BK-104WS with the 56mm bearing and getting harder to find. A lot just say the 71C is a FS5W71 kit that fits all. This is a 71B kit. https://transpartswarehouse.com/bk104ws-nissan-fs5w71c-manual-transmission-rebuild-kit-1980-1984.html They say 60mm bearing in description, but it is a 56mm bearing. Idiots Even call it a 71C kit. Here is an example of the 71C kit. The kit mostly use codes like BK-133WS https://www.4ws.com/product/fs5w71-transmission-bearing-seal-kit-nissan-200sx-280z-280zx-maxima-610-620-720-810-5-speed BTW. The neddle bearing is for the input shaft - main shaft and NOT the reverse idler like some people use it. That bearing generally doesn't wear much. You could also look for the genuine Nachi bearings. See my rebuild list I made when doing my transmission. Oh and good luck. If you have any question, just shoot.
  8. Sounds like you have a failing main shaft adapter plate bearing. Typical when you lightly push the gear stick further into the selected gear. You are then pushing on the thrust function of the center bearing. The center bearing is a typical bearing failure in these transmisions. The gear knob generaly moves vertically with unbalanced propeller shaft vibrations. If you hold your finger just above the knob, it should tap your finger in the same frequentcy of the sound. That is because the transmission mount is more flexible in the vertical axis among other things. The oil leak is a lip seal in the selector rod. Size 14/20x4.2mm. Nissan partnr 32858-U6702. Both will need dismantling the transmission. Good time to give it a bearing kit and check for other worn parts.
  9. Well Nils. All I can say is I don't comment much, but I do follow your thread. I hope this panelbeater pulls through without to many external issues. Its been 10 years. Bonus points for sticking it out.
  10. Lol. You're not blind. It's something that seems to have been forgotten by the designers and thats why there is so much discussion about how to install and adjust it in this thread.
  11. It's not mentioned in any of the manuals. The later 280Z manuals show it on some diagrams, but not further information about positioning and purpose of the bumper stop. Here is a screenshot of the 1977 280Z manual out of the downloads section on this site.
  12. Yes. Holes are offset. Only fits one way.
  13. Looks like you have the o-ring reverse lock out and the o-ring and seal for the striking rod. While you are at it would be the time to change the o-ring and seal in the speedo adapter. O-ring 32710-14600 (24.00×2.50mm) & Lip seal 32709-14600 (14/16×4.2mm). If you don't buy original, make sure they are from NBR or Viton. Not EPDM. Also: Check all the small springs in the selectors and choose the set with the longest free length/strongest of the two transmissions. Trust me, they DO make a difference. The springs under the synchro detent are also very important. They give the transmission that click snap into gear feel. A lot of people spend a lot of time on the synchro ring and forget theses. Great job on painting the trany housing. Looking good
  14. Yes they do look similar indeed. The giveaway on the T5 is the split bellhousing.
  15. It's a FS5W71B close ratio. The speedo bolt is located downwards, one exhaust hanger ear on drivers side and reverse lock out on drivers side. The 71C would have a completely different gear selector on top. The ebay photo above is not a 71C. Looks similar, but it's a BW T5
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