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chaseincats

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About chaseincats

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    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Dallas, TX

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z stock l28 - Dallas TX

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  1. Gotcha thanks! The car was originally automatic but the PO converted it to manual so them overlooking that wiring might also be it. Since the part number is the same, I'm guessing there wouldn't be any reason to swap the plugs so its wired 'correctly' right?
  2. So this is an odd one - I opened my engine relay bracket (the one under the black metal cover on the passenger's side) to clean the teeth on the relays and noticed one relay wasn't plugged in and there doesn't seem to be a connector for it on the harness (top middle). Any ideas what's going on here? The car runs as-is but I'm just curious
  3. So I went down just now with a fuel pressure gauge and unplugged the oil pressure switch connector and the pump indeed did come on. Does that mean my fuel pressure control relay was stuck open all these years?
  4. The pump (when I last used a gauge between the filter and rail a few years back) read 36 when the pump was primed and during operation. Today, it reads 10 during priming and 36 during operation which seems to be the issue.
  5. I'll try that today and report back. I actually tested it with the FPR vacuum hose unplugged (and capped) and got the same result. I also checked the FPR for vacuum leaks but it's solid.
  6. My car and my friends' 78 work like that and our oil pump switches are plugged in 🤷‍♂️
  7. It depends if you have the 5 or 7 pin AFR connector. The later 280z AFRs had the fuel pump hardware removed from the AFR's jurisdiction which is how the pump can be primed in the "on" position. The problem isn't (for the moment) that the pressure isn't holding in the rail overnight, it's that I'm not getting 36psi to the rail until a fair bit of cranking. Good point with the hoses.
  8. Hi guys, So I'm having a strange issue here. I recently changed my fuel injectors and fuel filter (for the first time in 4 years) and the car started up on the first crank but gradually started taking longer and longer to start with each drive. When I unhooked my old fuel filter to change it, the gas coming out of the bottom was black for some reason (the gas coming out of the filter was clear though, so the filter was working). I went to my local parts store and rented a fuel pressure gauge then spliced it in between the fuel filter & fuel rail. When I primed the pump by turn
  9. Just keep us in the loop when you eventually get to it since I don't think many people have seen how this is hooked up or even knew this feature existed (I sure didn't). Will you need to make a harness for it, or is it already in the loom just disconnected in the non-JDM models?
  10. Oh wow, I'd love to see how/if this works.
  11. Wow, you certainly did. I've never heard of parking lights until now I guess - thanks!
  12. Does anybody know what went on the center console that this panel covers up? My car came with the original panel cover and was always curious. This is the panel: https://zcardepot.com/products/console-switch-delete-plate-cover-plug-240z-260z-280z
  13. And here is the end of the post-credits scene for this feature-length thread: after 3 separate mismatched injector shipments from rockauto, I finally got 6 matching ones and sent the rest back. Took the car out today for the first time and interestingly enough, with the new reman injectors, I needed to richen the car a bit to get it to our numbers. I expected the old injectors to have had a diminished fuel output due to age but who knows.
  14. Update: The issue was old/tired/maybe dirty injectors. Bought new injectors/fuel filter and it starts on the first crank when stone cold.
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