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About chaseincats

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    Active Member


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    Dallas, TX

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z stock l28 - Dallas TX

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  1. Yea, thats the plan. I have a bunch of these laying around which is why I was curious.
  2. Will the below switches work for the fuel pump cutoff setup or does the fuel pump pull more than 16amps? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXJ8POI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Sorry I forgot to finalize this topic. What it ended up being was a huge vacuum leak in the brake booster which just so happens to plug into the carb that was giving us trouble. After we replaced the booster, we were good to go.
  4. I would also check all of the electrical connections in the below site, maybe one of them is super corroded and making trouble: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html
  5. Sorry, I forgot to update this thread. The new alternator I swapped out from oreilly's has been in for about a month and a half and everything is now perfect. Thanks gang!
  6. Do you mean that the bullet connectors are inside the storage area behind the seats or that they might have been chopped off when the PO played with the wiring?
  7. Hi guys, I'm trying to find the bullet connectors for the fuel pump to splice in a cutoff mechanism and cannot seem to find them ('78 280z). I looked under the passenger side carpet (behind the seat) and under the seat itself but cannot seem to find any bullet connectors. I attached a couple pictures showing the wires I'm looking at. Picture 1 shows an aerial view of the wires under the carpet (behind the passenger seat). Picture 2 shows what is under the passenger seat. Am I looking in the wrong spot? -chase
  8. Hi guys, Any idea if the rubber grommet for the dome light switch (the switch mounted in front of the door) is still available somewhere? The one on my driver's side door crumbled when I went to change the dead switch out and am having difficulty finding a new grommet online. -chase
  9. Not sure when they broke - the head has not come off while I've owned it. When I changed the valve cover gasket I noticed the front passenger-side bolt had its head sheered off so I easy-outed that and changed it (the bolt's head was resting behind the timing belt tensioner which was terrifying). The second broken bolt is 1 of the 4 cam tower bolts which is broken to this day because it is apparently snapped way deep in the head/block. I only noticed it while re-torqueing the head bolts when I was going through the engine tuneup chapter of the FSM.
  10. To throw a bit of contrast in here I don't think the broken bolt is the problem here. My car had 2 broken bolts and ran for years without overheating.
  11. gotcha - ill give it a shot, thanks!
  12. Something must be out of alignment on mine, if that's how its supposed to look 😕
  13. Hi guys, Having a tough time figuring out how to center the HVAC selector trim piece. As you can see from the image, the trim piece is not centered within the vent panel frame once bolted in. If I forcibly center it by pushing the piece right, it will turn the fan on - so basically I'm in the situation of always having the fan on low or having the panel be off-center. Any ideas? -chase
  14. Gotcha, thanks. The new alternator shows up Thursday. I'll get it on the car Friday and report back.
  15. Unrelated to the alternator - since the '78 doesnt use a ballast, would upgrading to the 280zx distributor not do anything? The appeal of that upgrade is connecting the distributor directly to the coil right? Since the '78 does that already, would changing to the ZX distributor be moot, or are there other benefits im overlooking besides bypassing the ignition module for fun?
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