chaseincats

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About chaseincats

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    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Dallas, TX

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1978 280z stock l28 - Dallas TX

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  1. I'm using a hand pump and I've gotten it up to as high as 22lbs before my hand said enough. It's ok its depeleteing a set amount even though vacuum amounts are being detracted on pedal push in & the same when the pedal is returned (the gauge drops pounds on 2 different actions)?
  2. So I just went downstairs to test it and here is what I found: The booster will hold vacuum indefinitely if vacuum pumped and the pedal isnt pushed Vacuum pressure is lost when the pedal is being depressed and when returning to the non-pressed stopper. If vacuum pounds >5lbs, holding the pedal in will only deplete a set amount of vacuum silently If vacuum pounds <5, holding the pedal will cause a hiss until the booster his 0 lbs of vacuum Any ideas on if this is dead or not?
  3. Thanks for both posts' explanations, that makes total sense. So that means that in order for a brake booster to be bad - it would need to not be able to hold a vacuum with the pedal not pressed and me pumping the vacuum gauge pump?
  4. Awesome, glad I don't need a new booster
  5. So I put a vacuum gauge on the booster and pumped it up all the way to 22 lbs without a problem (for at least 10 minutes until I disconnected the line). When I push the pedal, there is a hiss and vacuum pressure drops to zero. Is that how brake boosters are supposed to work (holding vacuum until the pedal is pressed)?
  6. Hi guys, My brake booster definitely has a small but increasing vacuum leak. I know it's leaking because if i hit the brake pedal the engine rpm slightly rises. I noticed yesterday the brakes really arent what they used to be when going at speed (new pads were put on about 8 months ago and the car has probably been driven fewer than a few thousand miles so that isn't it). Also it wouldn't be the master cylinder as a new one was installed last July. My question is, I'd like to get a larger non-vacuum leaky booster on there and I hear the 79-81 ZX's 10'' booster is the way to go. I can't seem to find a definitive yes or no as to if that will bolt right onto my '78 without needing to modify the piston length or requiring a new master cylinder which which works well currently. Any ideas? -chase
  7. lol what im gonna do is wait until it says empty again (9 gallons remaining) and bend it one direction or the other until it reads 1/3 full now that i know a solution lol
  8. The tank isnt dented so I just think its that I need to bend it and yep, the tabs are lined up.
  9. gotcha, thanks guys, ill straighten the arm then
  10. By that you mean straighten the arm, right?
  11. So when I bend the arm, am I straighening the bend or bending the arm further in the same direction?
  12. Ya, a few other members of my local z club picked up the zcardepot sender units when they first came out a few months ago and all work great - yes its the factory connector, its plug-and-play.
  13. Right - both senders had clean coils (I cleaned the first one and the second one was brand new) and I'm having the same issue in the exact same portion area of the gas gauge. For reference this is the sender I got: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/copy-of-fuel-tank-gauge-sending-unit-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-78
  14. Well that makes me feel better. The angle you bent it to fixes this more or less? If it does, could you take a picture of your angle and I'll bend it this afternoon.