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astrohog

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About astrohog


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  • Member ID: 11393


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  • Joined: 07/31/2006


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    Bellingham, WA
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  1. OK, I know I am probably missing something simple, but I was trying to remove the center console (1971 240Z, 12/70 build) in order to disconnect the shifter. I removed the 2 flat head screws from the rear of the console, the one screw in the coin scoop tray and the two pan head screws that secure the fuse panel. Removed the TINY set screw that holds the choke ever on and the console is loose, but I cannot figure out how to slide it past the fuse panel. There seems to be a metal strap that spans the width of the console (under the fuse panel) that the fuse panel cannot slide over the top of without interfering with the sloped back of the console. I just realized I probably should have taken a picture or two, but was getting pretty tired and frustrated. Any gurus who know the trick?
  2. I've owned my '71 240Z (12/70 build, HLS30 16896) for about 15 years, but it has mostly been in storage. I'm starting the process to get it on the road as a safe driver so I can attend a few meets, etc.. I finally took the time to read through the bag of paperwork that came with my car and along with the original owners manual I discovered that my car was purchased in March of '71 at Morris Motors (changed to Morris Nissan and now known as Charleston Nissan) in Charleston, SC, by A US Naval Academy graduate who became a nuclear submarine captain and he had the Z shipped with him as his command changed. It was shipped to Scotland and Hawaii and finally, to Washington State where he was the Commanding Officer at the Bangor submarine base. As far as I can tell, he (or his widow) sold the car to an artist who lived in a small, central Washington community and then it was sold again to a couple here in Bellingham, WA who I ended up buying it from. I found it interesting that my car has travelled around the world and thought I'd start a thread for others who may be fortunate enough to know the history of their cars and may also have an interesting, unique story of the history of their cars.
  3. Well, the POR treatment looks amazing! Very happy with the results (and glad that job is behind me!). Tried to remove the downpipe? from the stock exhaust header today. The nuts didn't feel too rusty, but they wouldn't budge with the only (1/4" drive) ratchet I had. Picked up a larger ratchet, extension and swivel and will try again tomorrow. Soaked them good with PB Blaster and will take a torch with me tomorrow as well. While I was under the car, I noticed that the soft clutch line that connects the clutch slave and clutch hard line was cracked, so I started fiddling with it (I had a new replacement in my parts bin!). The clips were completely rusted and I could not get things turning. I finally got the compression nut to turn in the soft line but realized that the compression nut was frozen to the hard line and was twisting it. Finally got the clip free, but could not get the compression nut to budge from the hard line, so it looks like I'll be ordering a new hard line. I need to put one more coat of paint on the outside of my refurbished fuel tank in the morning, then I'll try and remove the exhaust again. clutch hard line MIGHT make it here by the end of the week and the Unicoils I needed for the 180 degree bend vent hose from the tank will be here Thursday, so I may get her back on the road by next weekend. Fingers crossed.
  4. Had tank exterior blasted and found one pinhole, so I decided to go the POR-15 route. Cleaned inside of tank with Super Clean and 3 pieces of 1/2" chain to bash all the crap off the inside of tank while I was waiting for the POR-15 to arrive. Used both quarts of POR cleaner/degreaser with the chain and a good rinse in between. Rotated tank for about 3 hrs. with the POR Metal Prep inside, drained and used my heat gun to make sure inside of tank was bone dry. Just when I thought it was dry, I kept seeing moisture inside. Turns out the inner seams hold a fair bit of moisture, so I slowly moved the heat gun around the outside of the seams and I could look inside and see the moisture evaporating out, leaving a dry, gray seam, rather than a dark, moist seam. Mixed up the coating and poured it in. Rotated tank for about 45 minutes before draining excess out of the drain hole. Continued to peer inside and rotate for another hour or so, until it looked like it was starting to kick and drained the rest of the excess. Continued to rotate and look inside to assure that I didn't have any pooling. When the coating was moving real slow, I set the tank upside down on the work bench. The bottom of my tank was pretty clean, the top of the tank was a little more corroded due to moisture vap, and the pinhole was also on the top, so I wanted any pooling product up to, that also assured it didn't pool at the drain plug, orthe small slits in the bottom of the one baffle. Checked on it a couple hours later and I have to say, I am pretty impressed. It looks so good! Tomorrow, I will give the outside a light sanding as some light flash rust has developed from all of the flushing/cleaning, and I'll give it a coat of satin black epoxy primer. I think this will help to bolster the pinhole from the outside. I've got all new braided lines and a new fill hose, so I'll probably be ready to install it on Tuesday. Next up, MSA premium exhaust install from the stock exhaust manifold back. Once that is in, I should be able to do a quick oil and tranny fluid change, radiator flush and get her back on the road! It's been a few years since I've had her on the road, hopefully it will be exhaust/gas fume free!.
  5. Just ran across this rendering of a fantasy mid-engined Z and found it pretty cool! What say all the rest of you Z enthusiasts?
  6. Finally took some action on my car yesterday!! I dropped the fuel tank. Found all original hoses to be very crusty! Tank was clean inside with just a little sediment. Outside was in pretty good shape with just some surface rust here and there. I'll be taking care of the rust and giving it a fresh coat of Eastwood's. Ordered Stainless straps, a new filler hose, new through-grommets and a bunch of fuel line. I am going to need some new hose clamps and prefer to stick with the same style of clamps, can anyone direct me to a good source?
  7. maybe I should clarify; I'm stripping the car to bare metal and re-painting.
  8. Getting ready to paint my 1971 240z and am dreading pulling the headliner and diamond vinyl as they are original and in fantastic condition. Is there any chance they will be able to be re-used or should I plan on purchasing new ones? If I have to buy new ones, can someone kindly point me to the most authentic pieces that are currently available? Thanks in advance!
  9. Check out the poster on the wall in the background. Someone needs to do one of these with a series 1 car!
  10. I appreciate your comments and input. I did go look at BAT and I have to admit I am a bit surprised. I guess it is hard to "re-train" my brain to the changing times. I've had this car for so long, and their value has remained fairly constant (until very recently, apparently!). I may have to re-think my plan.
  11. I have to admit that I haven't been paying much attention to the Zcar market recently, but 10 years ago it was perfectly acceptable to add the necessary holes for spoilers and such, even up to the required trans tunnel trimming necessary for a 5 speed install. Has the market really gotten that "picky" now? My car would need to undergo a complete restoration anyway to bring it back to any kind of concours condition, I would think that filling a couple of holes during that process wouldn't (shouldn't?) be a reason for any appreciable de-valuation? Let me know if I am off base here.
  12. What mods did I post that you would consider "significant"? As far as I can tell, none of the mods I have planned would be considered irreversible (unless I'm missing something?}.
  13. Casey, any chance you could post the actual paint and paint code your guy used? The color on yours is fantastic!
  14. Your silver on silver is definitely making my decision harder! I am leaning towards doing the charcoal accents, but.....damn..... I was originally kind of bummed with my car because I always knew I would return it to original color, and at the time (15 years ago) I wasn't really feeling the silver, but now that I am older and more mature (cough, cough) I am really happy that mine rolled out of the factory clothed in silver!
  15. Okay fellow enthusiasts, I need your opinions. I've had my 1971 240Z for over 15 years with the hope of someday getting to restore/refresh it. Well, the kids are finally out of the house and I've managed to save a few $$ and, most importantly, received approval from my wife to start the process! As you can imagine, I've dreamed of numerous directions to take this project since I've owned her for so long! Car is a 12/70 build series 1 car (HLS30-16896) matching engine, with 102,000 miles. It was originally 901 silver but had a horrible '80's MAACO red re-spray. I have a 1981 L28ET turbo motor I plan to install and will mate to a 5 speed. I will pull the original numbers-matching L24 and rebuild and crate in case I (or future owner) wants to put it back to original. Here's my dilemma; I'm going to paint it as close to 901 silver as I can get with modern 2-stage paint. I'll be adding the Xenon (or something very similar) front splitter, the BRE rear spoiler and the SS Euro style bumpers and 16" Watanabe (or similar Panasports, Konigs, etc) wheels. What I'm struggling with is the accent colors of those accessories. Should I go ALL silver/ss (body color splitter and spoiler, all silver wheels, NO rubber trim on bumpers) OR silver/charcoal (matching the factory taillight surround color) which would mean charcoal splitter and spoiler, charcoal on the spokes of the wheels w/polished/machined lip on the wheels and rubber on the bumpers? I know your opinions will probably only make my decision harder, but let's hear em anyway!!!
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