inline6

Members
  • Content Count

    220
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

inline6 last won the day on February 3

inline6 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

105 Excellent

3 Followers

About inline6

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Occupation
    Internet Marketing

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    12/70 240z track/street car.

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://members.tripod.com/Trueweb/Zcar

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm all DIY, so, definitely not a pro. By a "nice base sealer", I wonder if he is just saying that he wants to apply a sealer over everything including the seam sealer. That would be my guess. My plan is to continue doing the body work for the next month or so... and then let it sit for another month: 1) because it will take a while for me to get it as good as I want it, and 2) to give the filler and undercoats time to dry and settle. At that point, I will hand it over to a pro to finish however they see fit to. It will be damn close to being ready to spray.
  2. After the two coats of high build primer, this is how things look. The camera doesn't like focusing on this light color - ugh.🙄 I will need some more light filler in some spots (will it ever end?!). Will likely do that and some more high build filler in strategic spots, such as: where the body line meets the front fender arch contour... and along the fender arch on the driver side, as examples.
  3. All my stuff is solvent based. For sealants, I've not had good luck reproducing factory in the past. They don't smooth out enough unless I go over them with some lacquer thinner within a few minutes of applying. I will look to 3M products and see what is currently available. Also, unless I spray primer over it, I think I run the chance of the base coat not looking the same wherever it is covering seam sealer. The concern is areas like inside the rain gutters, the quarter panel to rocker cover seams, and the quarter panel to tail light panel seams. I'm going to put a really small amount in these places just to fill the gaps, then cover with the primer/sealer. I am not worried about the seams inside on the floor, or underneath on the floor.
  4. I've generally had issues with base coat not appearing consistent if the coat it covers is not uniform. So, yes, a sealer coat to provide the consistent foundation. Primers used so far have been: Epoxy: 801-703 High build: 285-50
  5. I've been sanding and sanding, trying to get the body prepped for high build primer coats (ended up doing two plus a third on certain areas). It will be interesting to see how much more filler is required. I'm telling you, getting the filler laid on over big areas is the trick! Very little of this crap touch up with body filler is necessary if you do that. A few videos for you: One coat of Glasurit epoxy primer (basically), and body filler on top: A second coat of Glasurit epoxy primer: Lightly sanded, and some fine body filler applied in a few areas. It is now ready for high build primer coats:
  6. Patcon is right. I am using a sillicone remover, not a silicone based product. And actually, it is silicone and wax remover, not tar.
  7. Epoxy primer applied. 😄 Has to be above 60 degrees for it to dry, so I'm using a kerosene heater to elevate the temperature in the garage.
  8. I got the body filler work to a point on the car where another coat of epoxy primer was warranted. I'm still not 100% on how it should be done, but I like putting down a coat on bare metal, then doing body filler, then another coat to seal everything. The plan is to shoot high build primer next, and then to block sand to perfection. We'll see how that goes. 😁 A lot of time was spent getting the panels "close" with filler. More than I hoped. You can spray silicone and tar remover on and let is sit while you look down the sides of the panel to see where you are with progress. Then wipe off and let stand a few minutes to dry before priming. A really important learning using body filler is to apply it to very large areas at a time. You don't want to apply thin amounts just in the low spots and then sand that down... Inevitably, when you do that, you will end up with more wavy-ness that you hoped for. Lows and highs of only maybe 5 thousands of an inch can be seen in a finished panel. So, instead, apply skim coats to the full panel (unless it is perfect, which can be checked via the silicone and tar remover method above). You'll save a bunch of time and get a better results by doing this. Another option, which I have not used yet, is to apply spray on polyester filler. That looks like a pretty awesome way to go, and I may try that next time around. How things look just before applying 801-703 Glasurit epoxy primer (which was also used on the bare metal): Left rear quarter panel was crazy straight. There is some filler in the area between the door and wheel well opening that has already been covered over with some epoxy primer though.
  9. Very nice! I need my lines done also. Is what's shown in you pictures lines for more than one car? I need to look back through your build thread to find what you did for prep on those. Any tips to pass along before I ship all the lines out?
  10. inline6

    Datsun A87

    May be worth looking at: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-620-A87-Cylinder-Engine-Motor-Head-OEM-68-80-L20b/123953433156?hash=item1cdc334a44:g:178AAOSwndFdtJLj&autorefresh=true
  11. Looking at these pics - I have been doing body filler on my 240z for many weekends now, and it's amazing how this car is getting bondo in mostly the same places. I mean, my car is nearly skim coated over all panels now, but areas that take more are similar to yours - below belt line on fenders, slightly above belt line on doors and below belt line extensively, touch up areas on quarter panels, only below the parking lamps on the left and right valances, etc. This car you are restoring is getting a fair amount of metal work. Lots of hours go into that stuff. Must be costing A LOT!
  12. Nothing like spending another 12 hours this weekend out in the garage, mostly doing body work. The outer replacement panel came out super nice, in my opinion. Extra effort (and time) making the old and new panels line up perfectly so neither is higher or lower along the edge to be welded really helps make the finished area after grinding look much nicer, and take less filler. Also, on the driver side I made the cut to the old panel just below the little radius curve and sharp bend that make up the lower body line. Making the cut here and welding here is better because the bend gives this area of the panel some strength as opposed to where I cut it on the passenger side. There I cut about and inch or so below that bend, and when I was welding the old panel back, this flat area wanted to shrink and pull inwards. I had to keep tapping it from the inside to push it back out as I tack welded. Welded and ground, door gap altered... around dog leg curve on quarter panel to match door edge radius Distortion was minimal with this, my second try, and weld seams are hard to see after finishing with 80 grit on a DA sander: All that work to save a couple of factory spot welds! Middle pic - where new piece rosette welds (4 of them) to rocker, and last pic showing finish along radius. Final door gap will be corrected with very small amounts of filler and primer. Getting close to spraying epoxy primer over all the exterior, but it is supposed to rain here all week!
  13. The hose clamp diameter is 1/2" inch. Take a look at that last pic before you look through what you've got - these clamps are a bit different design than most on the car. The wire part circles around the plate the screw threads through. I chose Paltech because Ztherapy wouldn't rebuild my specific carbs - they only do exchange. I felt mine were in near excellent condition, so I didn't want to swap them for some that may not be as nice. Lots of stuff can be bad that one doesn't think about. For example, I have seen some with broken locator tangs on the carb casting. Without those, the float assemblies can rotate off of vertical. And I have seen stripped air cleaner mounting threads which were welded and repaired, etc. Copy that on going through them for checking settings. I'll be sure to do that. I am shooting for completion of the car by the end of July. I'm nearly sure that is optimistic, but hopefully can at least make ZCON2020 a month or so later. Let me know on the hose clamp.
  14. I got the carburetors, manifold etc. back from Paltech. Sent these away about a month ago, along with some extra parts to get plated. They look really awesome. I am very excited to see they came out this nice. I am hoping that the quality of the machine work to put in new bushings and shafts, plates, etc. is very high quality. Everything feels really tight and looks great. The domes are more polished than they should be for original appearance, but I didn't specify not to polish them, nor am I trying to build a top tier show car. So, can't fault him for making them "too nice". Soooooooo, here are the pics! In the last pic above, I have a question. I only have three of the four original style hose clamps for the fuel supply hoses (from fuel rail to each carb) and those are pictured. However, I think the original color of these shouldn't be gold "cad". Is the original color on these supposed to be silver? It's my screw up if so, but I may need to get them re-plated. Also, I need to track down a fourth!
  15. Thanks for the compliments! Challenging to keep raising the bar on the quality of work, and fun when the outcome meets or exceeds my expectations. Makes it more tolerable to put in all of the hours.