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inline6

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inline6 last won the day on December 12 2020

inline6 had the most liked content!

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About inline6

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  • Map Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Occupation
    Internet Marketing

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    12/70 Datsun 240z track/street car. 6/71 Datsun 240z undergoing a rotisserie restoration. I also have a 1970 Datsun 510, a 1995 BMW M3, a 2004 Honda S2000, a 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, and a 1988 Honda Accord (for towing) :)

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  • Website
    http://members.tripod.com/Trueweb/Zcar

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-16511
  • Zcar 2 VIN
    HLS30-35883

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  1. Thanks for that. I see differences in the brackets. I will work on mine more and make it look like that one.
  2. Different somewhat, probably because it is a series 1 car, but this one looks really good (and likely original) to me compared to many I see on previous BAT (Bring a Trailer) cars. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-65/ (around pics 62-67)
  3. I added clay to replace the material that was removed from the bores for eye-browing the block. I then put the head gasket on, lightly bolted the head on, and ran the engine through revolutions to check for valve interference. When I took the head off, there was none that I could perceive - there were no marks in the clay. Of course, this engine is bored over a bit, so there was that chance before mocking it all up that they would not hit. 🙂 After checking that, I pulled all of the clay off and combined it into one piece which measured out to less than 1 cubic centimeter. So, compres
  4. I am getting close to satisfied with the block eye brow and combustion chamber mods. I have a few areas I see in the pics that need attention. I actually can see them better in the pics because I can zoom in on them and compare from one cylinder to another. So this is helpful to document them in this way. Cylinder 1-3 and 4-6: Cyl. 1 exhaust (front of bore - also note ring location by rust stain), Cyl. 2 exhaust (back of bore), Cyl. 3 exhaust (back of bore): Cyl. 4 exhaust (front of bore), Cyl. 5 exhaust (front of bore), Cyl. 6
  5. I created a spreadsheet many years ago that is nice for exploring transmission options. Here are a couple of screenshots: In the rows below the screenshot above, I have the speeds in gears return in formulas for each 1000 rpm This sheet is nice because it accurately (I think) takes into consideration the tire size as well as the rear ratio and the gears. You only change a few parameters... and, it allows you to plot speeds in gears and look at a graphical representation: I used it recently to investigate using a 240SX transmission. If you want to use it, I can
  6. Chambers 1 to 6 in order from left to right after very little ground away, only nearest the valve and to the fire ring: I put the entire head inside a plastic bag and taped off everything so I didn't get any grinding dust anywhere in the head or valves, etc. I will check valve to block clearances next. Before the head goes back on for good, I will address any sharp edges that remain.
  7. Thanks for your comments! Yeah, is hard to explain. Basically, if you look at each of the pics of chambers 1 through 6, and look at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions specifically for each, only chambers 1 and 2 have edges that match up with the fire rings... and further, for the #1 chamber, it is only the exhaust valve side that matches up (3 o'clock position in the pic), and for the #2 chamber, only the intake valve side matches up (also the 3 o'clock position in the pic). All of the other combustion chamber edges (at 9 o'clock for all chambers, and at 3 o'clock for chambers 3 t
  8. Thanks. I appreciate the positive reinforcement! I have been studying it and the cylinder head for a few minutes each of the past couple of days. I want my next steps to be right ones. Checking the gasket against work that has been done so far on the head (valves are marked with cylinder number): The work already done to open up the breathing on the exhaust for #1 and intake for #2 puts the edge of the combustion chamber at the gasket edge, but only for these two edges: It seems desirable to do further work on the other sides of each of these cha
  9. Alright then. I took the head off today. The head gasket didn't stick to the block or the head, so I think it is reusable. After I got the head off, I went to work on modifying the gasket. I used a washer with a 1/4" hole to guide the drill bit. With the gasket modified, I turned my efforts on eye-browing the block. Hopefully, I have not royally screwed up here. I removed the timing chain, rotated the crank to get the pistons below deck, and then covered the block with a plastic bag, and cut out the top of it so I could access the tops of the bore
  10. A comparison of RPMs and speeds in gears between the US spec 4 speed, 3.36 and stock tire size vs. a 240SX 5 speed, 4.11 and 196/55-16 which will go on my car. This tire size is a bit small perhaps. But, I made a slight miscalculation before I bought them, and I am trying to keep the tire from rubbing at all on my stock sheet metal (and the car will have aftermarket springs which will lower it also). Besides the high RPM of the 4 speed for interstate travel, another thing I do not like about the 4 speed is the gap between 2nd and 3rd. Performance is decent in first a
  11. Well, thanks @Racer X for getting me to look at this closer. I continued looking at pics and reading through some old posts and I see a problem that I did not before. Coolant holes in the gasket are not to my liking. My head gasket: My block and head: A Nissan Comp MLS gasket: So, at this point, I don't feel good at all about the gasket I used. I should have checked the coolant holes. It seems best to pull my cyl. head off at this point. I still have the issue of pistons above the deck by .025" and all the thoughts shared earlier in that
  12. Hmmmmmm. I chose not to do that for this engine. Prompted by your question, I did some researching of eyebrow notching the L24. I found that some people's L24's had valve to block contact. I became a bit concerned that I missed a required modification to keep the larger exhaust valve (or the intake) from hitting. I found a couple of relevant threads: It looks like I should have checked mine out specifically for clearance issues. The head has been bolted and torqued with a new Nissan gasket at this point. I don't know if it can come back apart without replacing the gasket.
  13. Hahahahaha! Oh man, there are better things to do than that for sure! Welp, it seems with our little sample of three, that there were... "variations" 😜 In case anyone cares, here is what Nissan has in stock - the part number changed again by the way:
  14. That is a job very well done. Couple of questions if you don't mind? What is the 24271-2P010? Does that part number correspond to the dark piece of thin foam? Did you reuse the original vinyl on the flap door? The hardware... is original and re-plated? Did you lose any when you had them re-plated? I am concerned about losing smaller stuff like those sheet metal screws when I send mine off to get re-plated. When I took my heater core assembly apart, I saw evidence of some foam which was originally glued to the sides of the heater core. It was only about half as tall as my replacem
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