inline6

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inline6 last won the day on November 22

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About inline6

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    Marietta, GA
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    12/70 240z track/street car.

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  1. Sure. I've got to sort out the electrical hook up for it and the Tig welder in the garage, so it may take a week or so. I will do a separate thread when I do the testing. I will cover the job in detail in the build thread later as well.
  2. Bought a couple of toys to use on the restoration... and other car projects! Tig welder: Spot welder: usaweld.com is running a promo right now. The spot welder counted as qualifying products for discount ($300 off), and I got free shipping. The tig welder that I got is the 220 volt version and not water cooled. Should be a lot of fun to learn how to use it well. I've got an aluminum radiator for my other Z (highly modified) that needs some brackets welded onto it and some other welding jobs in line for that car as well. I'm also interested to see how well the spot welder does on the rocker panel repair for the restoration Z.
  3. Next up to share is a repair to the A pillar where it attaches to the unibody. Evidently there was some flexing going on here at some point. Looking at the unwelded seam (inside edge of the corner), it seems obvious why this happened. Pics show that aligns with the crack in the lead body filler: Also, note the indentation/impression made by the back edge of the fender. Is that how it came from the factory, or is that unusual. The driver side fender did have slight accident damage just behind the wheel well opening, above the body line. Maybe a slight side impact there caused the back edge of the fender to bump the lead? I used a propane torch to heat the old lead and watch it run off onto the floor. Then I used a blue stripping wheel to clean up the surface of the metal, followed by liberal use of the torch and compressed air to blow the old lead out of the crevices... followed by use of a stainless wire brush. Given the lack of welds here, I strategically set a couple of tacks and a bead with my MIG welder for good measure and ground the ones in the inside corner down flush: Next came the tinning. I watched a Youtube video to get a reminder of how to tin. An Eastwood lead kit from my restoration of my other Z back in 1993 was put back into action. The tinning "butter" did pretty well considering it was 26 years old. At least, I think it did... I neutralized the acid with some water and baking soda mixed together. Then went over the area with a wire brush. Next came the lead filler. Again, I used a standard propane torch: I think it came out pretty well. Next, I started shaping with a file as well as a die grinder: More filing and some sanding with a DA and 80 grit. Looking closely at the passenger side (3rd pic), I see that the body line is altered before it meets the back edge of the fender. I will replicate for the driver's side.
  4. Yeah, I am trying to do a high quality restoration (as best I can) and leaving that the way it is would bug me. Going to be a bit of a project. Maybe I will consider buying a spot welder like the Quick Spot II!
  5. Speaking of the cars not being perfect off the assembly line, I have a bit of a dilemma. It seems that as it came from the factory, this car has a less than perfect fit where the right rear quarter panel over laps the rocker. I'm kind of inclined to go at this corner and make it right, which would entail dissecting at the spot welds and some miner reshaping. Here are some pictures of how it looks from the factory: Note the middle picture here, where the floor panel is supposed to meet up with the panel that makes the tool door compartment. The attempted spot weld couldn't pinch the parts together because the tool door compartment panel was misaligned at the bottom edge. In the third picture here, you can see that a factory worker appears to have used a MIG welder to fill in a bead in the crevasse. Note gap caused by poor fitment. From the factory there was a bunch of seem sealer in the hole (first pic). Middle pic shows the jack point of the rocker. It is not flat as it should be for proper jack fitment. Seems a shame to leave it like this, but I will have to drill out spot welds and it won't look factory any more.
  6. Thanks. Many people make their own and I looked at a bunch of videos on Youtube of their modded engine stand, as well as custom creations. I looked on craigslist on and off for about 8 months without luck before finally taking the plunge, spending what many would call a lot of money on this one. I justified it by telling myself I have three cars that will go on it, and I can sell it for a good bit when I am done. In case anyone is curious about the model, it is an Autotwirler Pro. I am very happy with the condition of the body as I found it under the paint. There were many small dents and the minor damage to the rear end, but thankfully, nothing surprising. I am at that stage of body work where I am epoxy priming, applying and sanding plastic filler, and will be appying high build primer shortly. Not much bondo is going on the car. Mainly, it is taking a small amount along the belt line... just below the body line that runs down the sides of the car. It received lots of door ding hits along the side of the car over the years it was on the road.
  7. I've been documenting fasteners in a spreadsheet because I will be sending them off to get them plated and figured they will all get mixed together. I want the right fastener in the right location. The ways discussed so far would require looking up all the fastener part numbers, yes? That may be totally sufficient but I could share what I have if desired. Here is a sample: front sway bar bracket 4 yellow zinc hex head bolts (7 on head) M8 X 1.25 - 20 mm under head - fully threaded 4 yellow zinc M8 split lock washers left rear bumper bracket 2 yellow zinc nuts M10 X 1.25 2 yellow zinc split lock washers - M10 2 yellow zinc flat washers - 22mm od - 10.5mm id right rear bumper bracket 2 yellow zinc nuts M10 X 1.25 2 yellow zinc split lock washers 2 yellow zinc flat washers - 22mm od - 10.5mm id Rear bumper 2 yellow zinc hex head bolts (4 on recess in head) M10 X 1.25 - 25mm under head - fully threaded 2 yellow zinc nuts M10 X 1.25 2 yellow zinc split lock washers - M10 2 yellow zinc flat washers - 22mm od - 10.5mm id 4 special chrome bolts - M6 X 1.0 4 yellow zinc split lock washers - M6 4 yellow zinc flat washers M6 - 14mm od - 6mm id 4 yellow zinc hex nuts M6 X 1.0 8 yellow zinc nuts with locking serrations - M6 X 1.0 Rear hatch latch assy 2 clear zinc phillips pan head machine screws with captive split lock washer - M6 X 1.0 - 15 mm under head fully threaded 2 yellow zinc flat washers M6 - 14mm od - 6mm id
  8. Good to know. It seems copper slag and coal slag are pretty aggressive compared to play sand. But much safer, I am sure. Once the outside of the car was stripped to that point, I mounted it on a rotisserie:
  9. The car with most of the exterior stripping and metal work complete. The hood got some more work after this pic which can be seen in pics I already shared. The tail light panel and rear apron received a lot of hours because of the light tap that the car took at some point in its life. Also, the front passenger side fender was damaged as you can see in the bring a trailer pic at the bottom of these: Some rust through on the lower corner of passenger fender. Also more metal work to be done on fender (middle pic) Shrinking and stretching was necessary to get this area in good enough shape to require only a skim coat of bondo. BAT pic:
  10. Did some searching and reading today. Interestingly, I don't see anyone selling copper slag in the US. I see shopping suggestions of other abrasives in Google Shopping when I search for copper slag. Coal slag is available. Both have descriptions that typically refer to applications which are thick metal (truck frames, trailers, etc.) I see Black Diamond is available in fine and medium. It's pretty cheap. I think I will get some and try it. I have a bunch of suspension parts and other similar items that need to be done, so if this is too aggressive for body panels, I still should get use out of it for these other items.
  11. I'm thinking about making a video of sand blasting with play sand just for entertainment purposes. I'm sure that courser and sharper sand is more effective, but much like glass beads, I believe play sand to consist of smaller grains, overall, and thus, more similar to glass beads. They have less weight, and less momentum for a given air pressure, and in my opinion, do not impact with the same force, and do not cause the same level of distortion on thin sheet meal that bigger grains can. That said, the more I read about silica being harmful to health, the more I think everyone should avoid using sand for blasting. Glass beads or coal slag would be better. Where do you get that? I tried looking with Google and found no where to buy it.
  12. Some of the smaller panels after dent straightening and sand blasting: And other parts getting stripped. Lots of stripping!
  13. Whoops, yeah, Patcon. I am using play sand from Home Depot. Once it has been used and recycled a couple of times, it is very fine. As you can see in these pics, I was removing the repaint layer first and then the original paint and primer. Varying distance, and being careful with "used" play sand works at keeping distortion minimal.
  14. Here is the hood stripped inside and out to bare metal. The sand blaster was used on the inside frame parts. The high speed sander was used on the large, flat areas. There was some hammer and dolly work on some minor dents, and some stud pulls on the pointed nose at the front. 80 grit on the DA was used to get it ready for epoxy primer: These pics show the sandblasting the cowl panel. As mentioned by Grannynot, you have to be careful about sand blasting thin panels such as this one.
  15. Sticking with paint removal for now, I found that one of the bigger jobs was removing paint from the exterior panels. Certain areas, I was ok with sandblasting after some testing. But for the large surfaces, I switched over to a high speed sander similar to this one, and some 36 grit paper with supporting, backing disc. Interestingly, the disc removed the one layer of repaint, the factory silver, and the factory top coat of primer (dark grey I think - I am colorblind) and left the red (oxide?) primer behind for the most part. I then used a DA sander and 80 grit paper to remove that. It was helpful the way it worked out because the red primer stayed where there were dings and dents. This gave me a visual aid for hammer and dolly work, and hammer and flat punch work. I found some of the dents were best handled by locating the flat punch on the inside of the panel and tapping with the hammer. Here are some representative pics of this work, done on the fenders: