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About inline6

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inline6 last won the day on August 12

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  • Map Location
    Marietta, GA
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    Internet Marketing

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  • About my Cars
    12/70 Datsun 240z track/street car. 6/71 Datsun 240z undergoing a rotisserie restoration. I also have a 1970 Datsun 510, a 1995 BMW M3, a 2004 Honda S2000, a 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, a 1988 Honda Accord (for towing), and a 2018 Porsche 911 GT3.

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  1. This is great! Thanks for posting these pics. Another material I have been looking for is a vinyl for the tool storage compartments. I have had sourcing some used ones on my list for a very long time, but haven't been able to find anything. I am contemplating using a cloth material - gluing it to a 1/8" foam backing to "semi" replicate the original look. Here is a cloth I found: https://www.decorativefabricsdirect.com/MORSE-BLACK-Diamond-Fabric-p/7036211.htm This vinyl would probably be more durable, but looks considerably different: https://www.fabricguru.com/marine-vinyl/marine-vinyl-diamond-outdoor-fabric-black.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw6raYBhB7EiwABge5Kl3cwLQmn_bZARZ-xjpzzLBqujGFLs8qjcoWdEbapQ8zzvbzNIH3HBoCCCwQAvD_BwE
  2. Realizing that a key next step in the body work for this car was to determine the final fitment of the top, inside edges of the fenders, I proceeded with mounting the hood over the weekend. In order to do that, I had to first modify the angle brackets connecting the car at the bumper bolt locations to the rotisserie. I had to cut a small section from them to get freedom of movement for the mounted hood hinges. With that out of the way, I proceeded to struggle mightily with aligning the hinges and getting the hood to "sit down" all the way. I didn't take pictures of them, but it is important to note that the "hood - bumpers" (reference A in the drawing), don't just align the hood laterally in the engine bay opening. They are POSITIVE stops for the hood depth - caps added for emphasis! I put them on before final adjustment of the height of the fender inner edges, and they were keeping the hood from shutting enough! Suffice to say... you must leave those off when aligning the hood and fenders, and add them later (as Nissan did after the car was painted at the factory). Hood hinge and hood bolt for documentation purposes: On to details about the chore of aligning the fenders with the hood. After adjusting the hood and fenders as well as possible within their "ranges", the left fender was sitting up higher than the right, a little more in the back (note the inside surface of the fender inner flange can be seen from this angle in the first pic, and less so toward the front of the car in the second pic. Well, I couldn't push the inner edge of the left side fender down any further, as it was at the full range of adjustment using the bolt hole openings on the fender inner edge. That was odd, because I wasn't having the issue with the right side fender. So, I began to compare the two: Left side vs. right side - in that order: It is a little hard to see, but perhaps you can make out that the left side fender has about 1 and an 1/8" from the 2 on the tape to the top surface, while the right side fender has about 1 and a 1/32" from the same 2 on the tape. To get the driver side fender inner edge to align with the hood surface properly, I had to open up the slots in the fender. I did this by using a die grinder and protecting the opening with a flat steel plate: After a few rounds of this on the fender bolt holes, I was able to push the fender down enough to align with the hood properly. I then tightened those inner fender edge bolts for the last time and locked in the fender top surface position. Of course, I then had to "touch up the body work on the fender top surfaces on both sides. I keep learning my own lessons over and over again: 'don't do body filler work on these panels until they are in final position'. Tonight I scuff sanded the inner surface of the hood to ready it for primer filler. The tops of the fenders, and inspection flaps are also ready for primer filler. With any luck, those will be final coats of primer on those areas - more panels are reaching the point where I can switch to wet sanding with 240 grit. After that, I should be able to progress to 400 and then 600 to finish out the sanding process.
  3. I've been searching on and off again over the last few days to try to find suitable vinyl replacements for the areas mentioned above. Tonight, I came across a vinyl that looks similar to the original vinyl glued onto the scuff plates. It took me a while to realize that I needed to search for "vinyl wrap". I kept searching for non-backed vinyl and was coming up with nothing. Ebay auction It is cheap enough ($10 including shipping), so I think it is worth a try. I haven't yet found an A pillar trim that looks like the original material. I have found some that are nice. My trim pillar trim was carefully removed and is reusable. I may go that route.
  4. There are some frame charts I've seen - take a search online and see if they give you the dimensions you need. I can take some rough measurements if you need. Just let me know. However, I think the frame chart might be your best info.
  5. Interesting. It looks like there are holes in the replacement panel that line up with the inner U frame section. Those holes appear to me to be there so you can "rosette" weld to the new panel to the frame. In the third pic, I think I see evidence on the U frame section (goes horizontally from side to side on the car) of where the old welds were ground through to release the old panel. The holes in the new panel appear to be too far away from the U frame. This is the original tail light panel on my 1971 240z. You can see the rosette welds inside the indentation area (this area is obstructed from view when the bumper is on the car). You can also two rosette welds where the panel attaches to the gas tank support "box" of the U frame. The panel should be touching the bottom flange of the U frame support rail. Here is a pic from inside.
  6. I've mentioned this a couple of times before, but I think it is worth repeating for anyone who may do bodywork on their car in the future: panels bolted onto the car change shape, so if you do your bodywork before the panel is bolted down, you will be doing it again after. While my car is on the rotisserie, I can't finish the top side of the fenders. The problem is this: I can't bolt the hood on and finalize the position of the fender where it bolts in several locations along the top, inside edge. The front rotisserie mounts interfere with the hood hinges, so I can't bolt them into place. I forgot about this and "went to town" sanding the top side of my left fender, breaking through the primer filler to body filler as you can see here: And here is where I again emphasize that panels move - that "high spot" I was sanding down is centered above these "support pads" that are underneath the fender surface - the spot is just above the two in the right side of the picture: These closed cell rubber pads contact the fender and apply force to the unsupported part of the panel. And, depending on that inner edge of the fender's final location, the force could be higher, or it could be lower, causing a difference in the final shape of the fender. I hope I haven't removed too much of the filler there! But I won't find out until I can put the hood on and adjust final fitment on the inside edge of the fender. This next picture shows the side of the fender a while back when I first bolted the fender on (please ignore the poorly applied guide coat - the can was about empty): Same deal: the rubber weather strip on the inner fender support contacts the fender and applies a force to that unsupported area of the fender. In the picture, you can see the guide coat has been sanded away where that rubber is contacting the inside of the fender panel. It changed the fender shape considerably! At least I have already reworked this area extensively and have the bodywork for the side of the fender behind me. Bodywork - will it ever end?
  7. I've started searching online for the vinyls which could be suitable replacements for the original that was used by Nissan on my car, a 1971 240z. For now, I am specifically looking at the A pillar, and front windshield header trim, and I am looking at the vinyl which was used as a covering on the black metal trim piece, which I call rocker panel threshold trim. I am looking for suitable new vinyl materials which are "close" replacements. So far, I have determined that there are vinyls with "backing" and "non-backed" vinyls. However, searching for suitable replacements is not going well. Anyone have any luck sourcing vinyl that is close or anyone have any advice to help me source these? Pics for reference: A-Pillar trim (has backing): Rocker threshold - Early type with vinyl covering (non-backed) - also interesting that the underside is bare metal - no paint or primer and very susceptible to rust: Rocker threshold - Late type with crinkle paint - note: primer/paint on the under surface:
  8. This past weekend, I finally felt it was appropriate to do some wet sanding. Up to this point, I have done all body work sanding dry, with grits of sandpaper including 80, 120, 180, 240 and 320. Mostly, I have used 80 grit and then 120 grit on body filler. And mostly, I have been using 180 grit for everything else. I have been using 240 grit and 320 grit on fender lips and other areas which require more precision, such as where the forward edge of the body belt line terminates on the front fender. Truthfully, I have likely been too conservative in that regard. I have learned a lot about doing body work, as I knew I would. I just wish I could have learned faster. Anyway, it was exciting to do some wet sanding. For wet sanding, I am going over the whole car with 240 grit first. As I go, I am seeing small areas which will need a bit more primer filler. However, I am seeing the end of bodywork on this car coming... finally. I am trying to make sure my belt line is consistent and sharp. I don't believe I will keep it this sharp when it is to be sprayed with color, but I think it is a lot easier to round off a consistent, sharp line to achieve a consistent finished shape than to attempt to round off a line that is not entirely consistent, if that makes sense. Right side front fender (pics 1,2,3: front to back, back to front, back portion of fender close up of beltline): (pics 4,5, and 6: middle portion of fender close up of beltline, front portion of fender close up of beltline, close up of termination of beltline At the termination point above the wheel well opening, the belt line dips downward a touch. That should be easy to fix (to be made straight instead of dipping down) by wet sanding the area that still has guide coat on it. I just need to be careful there.
  9. Dang. Bought a new shift knob a while back (has a slight imperfection, but I spent a lot for it - so no interest in spending a lot for another). Keep hoping I can find someone with NOS Jute. Not likely, though.
  10. As you point out, the factory shop manual says not to remove the bridge bolts. See a thread I started in the brakes section for a pic of the crud I found in my caliper when I took it apart. O-rings to seal the bridge connection were not available as replacement parts from Nissan that I can tell. Some aftermarket caliper rebuild kits do include them. Some do not. If you don't take them apart after this many years, you are taking chances. In addition to the rust and crud inside the passageways, you are relying on 50 year old o-rings to hold their seal. A leaky caliper makes for a very bad mess - eating paint wherever brake fluid gets. I messed up a new Panasport wheel years ago because of a bridge seal that failed. NOS parts are always cool. But, I don't need them because I had my caliper to strut hard lines re-plated. They need a bit of tweaking which I will do when I install them. I sent the platers a brake master cylinder to brake compensator hard line that was like your NOS lines, with that green coating on it. It came back essentially the same. So, whatever that coating is, it won't accept zinc. Do you have any other NOS items that you won't be using?
  11. So, my latest learning from doing the bodywork on this car... This is a pretty important lesson to learn with regard to filler work. Here is how my passenger door looked in bare metal: The door wasn't sand blasted. Don't do that, by the way, of course. The paint was stripped off with a 36 grit disc on an air sander. Followed by 80 grit on a DA. Next pic shows body filler which was applied on top of epoxy primer. An obvious issue is that I have over sanded the filler and broken through the epoxy primer to bare metal. The instant you break through to bare metal, unless it is a high spot which will be pretty obvious, stop sanding. But, what I really want to point out is with a large panel, such as this passenger door, you can't assume it is flat enough to just skim coat with filler, sand, and spray a couple of high build primer coats on it and call it done. Note the bottom half of the door and that oval spot of body filler: After more filler applied and more sanding... note the oval spot is still there: In this pic, I have applied high build primer filler... and note the oval spot on the lower half of the door... this time with white body filler added. Are you starting to get a sense of the repetition here? right Almost a year ago, the bodywork on this door still wasn't right. So, here is what I have learned. Don't over sand. Other than possibly being a good workout, it wastes time and materials. Critically, for large panels, use a straight edge, or look at the reflection with a coat of wax and silicone remover on the panel, and check for any concaveness across the span of the door. It is exceedingly difficult to address the panel being ever so slightly concave after you have sprayed primer filler. You need to check it while it is bare metal, and again while it is in body filler stage. Get the panel flat while in the body filler stage. Do not move on to primer filler until the panel is flat. Use guide coat, and wax and silicone remover and check progress. Primer filler is not going to fill a concave panel. That is another thing I was doing that was wrong. A picture from today - note the white filler in the same location as the oval low spot in the pics above, and which can be seen in the video above also: I have learned a lot, but have done it the hard way. And it has cost hundreds of hours and hundreds of dollars in materials. The reflection looked really good prior to application of primer filler today, so I think this door is super close to done, at long last. While waiting for filler to dry, I also assembled my brake calipers today. The original hardware was re-plated, insides of pistons sand blasted zinc primed and painted, caliper halves sand blasted, zinc primed and painted with Eastwood cast iron look paint:
  12. Regarding correct side, I learned the hard way one time. So, always remember, bleed screw location is at top. The calipers were painted with zinc primer, and then https://www.eastwood.com/ew-spray-gray-detail-paint-aerosol-12-oz.html. To me, it looks close to the original finish color of most calipers that I have seen. I like the finish. On this member's page, there are pics of a new old stock caliper. "Zinc rich" primer: Waiting for final torque of bridge bolts:
  13. What are the chances that those lines are just marks from where the overriders "hit" the bumper?
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