Jump to content

inline6

Subscribing Member
  • Posts

    449
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

inline6 last won the day on November 21

inline6 had the most liked content!

3 Followers

Contact

  • Map Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Occupation
    Internet Marketing

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    12/70 Datsun 240z track/street car. 6/71 Datsun 240z undergoing a rotisserie restoration. I also have a 1970 Datsun 510, a 1995 BMW M3, a 2004 Honda S2000, a 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, and a 1988 Honda Accord (for towing) :)

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://members.tripod.com/Trueweb/Zcar

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-16511
  • Zcar 2 VIN
    HLS30-35883

Recent Profile Visitors

3,311 profile views

inline6's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year Anniversary

Recent Badges

256

Reputation

  1. I don't care for the comments from the peanut gallery of restorers on these auctions either, especially regarding current valuations, or future valuations, or costs to restore. It is a good entertainment experience to see a nice car or one that is a nice restoration candidate, presented well in the media supplied by the seller, and to see an engaged seller answering questions from interested buyers.
  2. Do you have another restoration candidate in hand? I spend a fair amount of time looking and it seems the reputation of the increase values of these cars has become widespread. Sourcing at decent prices for adequate profit margins seems more challenging? Garrett
  3. Looks good with that lighting. Are you putting it up for sale soon?
  4. He asked if I had them do work for me before, so, I think they are continuing for a few current customers. Also said something about prioritizing local business/clients. Anyway, if I have to go elsewhere, I'll be more nervous about it.
  5. Pictures after using the panel bond. I sprayed the non-bonded surfaces with zinc primer before I bonded the bracket to the outer and inner hatch panels. In other news, I finally boxed up the hardware to send it off to be plated. I called http://www.texasprecision.net/ a few days ago and Steve said they are "not really taking on that kind of work anymore". I told him I was referred by a couple of other 240z people who recommended them highly, and that I would be happy to wait an extended period of time, if necessary. He asked about the condition of my parts. So, I told him that I had done extensive prep and described my process a bit. I offered to send a few pics, which I have done. But, I haven't heard anything back yet. Fingers crossed.
  6. Today, I accomplished another special modification I have had in mind for a long time. With my first Z, I discovered that the rear hatch outer panel is not well supported originally from the factory in the 240z. Pushing on the lock button to open the hatch can (if a little too hard) can cause the outer panel to "oil can" inwards. I have wanted to reinforce the hatch on my first Z for many years, however I was able to take care of it on the Z I am restoring for now, and will do the same on my first Z someday. Making a cardboard template: Transferred the template to sheet metal: I didn't show all here: I welded the box on the one corner, and then used panel adhesive to affix it into place. So, the outer panel will be well supported and have a much nicer feel when unlatching the hatch in real world use.
  7. I agree on the 182,000. If I was serious, I would have located someone in the area to have a look at it, and snap some pictures. Perhaps that is what one or more of the high bidders have done. Hazard switch is odd in this car. Anyone know if that is original? Also, I am a bit confused about the hood. I thought early cars didn't have the corner reinforcements at the back. If Zhome.com site registry is a reasonable thing to go by, it seems that green on tan and blue on blue are rarer combinations than others for 70 and 71. Not going to spend more time looking. Gotta get it out of my head.
  8. Sheesh. That makes no sense at all. Any predictions on the blue one I mentioned? It will sell tomorrow. It is at $15600 now. Transport to east coast states would likely be more than $1200. Incomplete info in the listing. No confirmation that it is numbers matching for the block. Valve cover is correct for the early engine. But, color of the paint on the block looks non-original. Engine may have been rebuilt or replaced. Blue on blue, while not my favorite looks to be rare. Probably not originally an automatic, given the manual shift lever laying there in the passenger compartment. Found myself thinking of this car a lot the last couple of days. Given my current 240z restoration is on year 4, and my 510 waiting for its turn in the garage, I don't want to buy another project. Best to finish my existing ones. I wonder if I will want to do another project after the 510...
  9. Posting this here at least in part to make sure as many people see it as possible - and keep me from buying it. I've studied the pics. Appears to be an original blue on blue car. Seems to me like those are exceedingly rare. Mostly complete. Missing 4 speed trans and air cleaner cover. Not a lot of rust. VIN HLS30 02146 $15k so far. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203698086759?hash=item2f6d5a2367:g:Gm0AAOSwwFFhkY6e
  10. Thanks for the info. I spray with a 3M mask with charcoal filters. I am guessing is reasonably ok. I have absolutely sanded by hand, and wear nothing more than a N95 particle mask. I will be more careful in the future.
  11. That is amazingly clean. Love to see some others post up pics of this area of their cars "as found". I may get some of my passenger fender on my first (now track) car, which unfortunately has been off the road for 7 years now. I doubt I cleaned it out right when I put it in storage.
  12. On my first 240z, with new fenders back in 1993, I sprayed chromated primer into the area we've been talking about. I did not immerse the corner of the fender in the primer. For my 240z undergoing restoration currently, I used the existing fenders. They had some rust in this area. I cut out the rust and welded in replacement metal. I also unfolded the metal that wraps around the reinforcement panel because some rust had occurred within. As a result, the area captured by the folded rear edge of the fender had "expanded". This happens when metal rusts. It expands at the same time. So, I unfolded the bottom two or three inches where the outer panel wraps around the reinforcement panel. I manually removed the rusted metal that was loose from within the pinch, and then re-pinched the reinforcement panel. This time, I poured the epoxy primer into the inside of the reinforcement panel. And separately, I applied seam sealer to the outside of the pinch to seal the other side of it. So, that corner of the fender has been "soaked" in chromated epoxy primer on the inside, and seam sealed on the other side. And of course, now it has a fabricated panel that hopefully will keep debris from settling into this trouble spot. The chromated epoxy primer I have been using is pretty bad-arse. That said, again, I do not recommend relying on it (plus top coat) alone to save this area of our cars from rusting.
  13. That is helpful information. Cleaning that area out I think should be recommended regular maintenance as it is a real problem area on these cars. I cleaned that are out on my first 240z (now a mostly track car) a few times over the years it was on the road after I restored it. Even with new fenders, and the extra prep of using Glasurit zinc chromate epoxy primer and paint in that area (on the inside of the fender), 90% garaged time, driving only infrequently in rain, and the before mentioned clearing of debris a few times, the outside, bottom corner of the right fender has some tiny bubbles in the paint, indicating some pin holes are now present in the panel. I hope my modification on this car will eliminate this problem completely. For what it is worth, regarding the comments about not recommending sealing that area 100% by some here, I note that there is about an 1/8" air gap between the inner reinforcement and the outer panel at the very bottom where the bolt hole is. The question for me now is, do I leave the 3 slotted vent holes I added? Those are now entry points for water coming down the inside surface of the reinforcement panel. I could close those up, and the air gap at the very bottom where the bolt is would still allow drainage.
  14. I don't recall ever talking about those or seeing them with either David, or Tom Howen, his friend and driver. Tom was the car builder, engine builder, etc. Dave sold Datsun Competition Parts and Cosworth pistons and other brands of racing parts. He possessed all of the knowledge from their efforts, and he provided the financial backing for their direct racing efforts. I believe there were some reliability issues with the roller rockers, and I also remember hearing that weight was a problem, but I don't recall if I got that info from either Dave or Tom directly. I worked in Tom's Shop for the summer of 89. It was neat to see a lot of the work being done and learn some from the depths of knowledge they had acquired.
  15. To the original poster (OP), I offer my opinion. I only have experience with Mikuni 44's... so stating that up front. David Weber of Malvern Racing (long dead, but was a friend of mine when I was a young kid) told me that Mikuni 44's are the best carb for Datsuns. He didn't care for any Webber variant and the 40's were no good either in his opinion. I was 18, and running a 2.3L stroker motor in my 510. Know that there are many variables in engine building and you can get lost in them. That said, don't. Rebuild the 44's you have. Match the intake side ports of the manifold to the carbs outlet if you wish, or don't. Not an issue for a street car. Taper from intake inlet to head side should be gradual, but for a street car, again, it doesn't really matter. Do source RUBBER carb isolators. Dave said the others are trash, and Mikuni's won't operate properly if the fuel is bouncing around inside the carbs. Mikuni's can be tuned for street without issue. I was running 40mm chokes on the 510, and it was totally streetable with a 490/290 cam. It was my car in college. Lotsa fun. Separately, I have run 44's on my 240z as well. 2.933L technically because sonic bore testing wouldn't allow me to go past 88.5 on the bore. Narly cam, still totally streetable. Lots of fun. The crazy loud wine is a Kameari chain tensioner which I may have had a bit tight.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.