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About inline6

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    Marietta, GA
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    Internet Marketing

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    12/70 240z track/street car.

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  1. Has anyone any experience with these door panels/cards I see on Ebay? They look decent...
  2. inline6

    [SOLD] NOS P90A head for sale $700

    Head is sold. Thanks.
  3. inline6

    [SOLD] NOS P90A head for sale $700

    That's the way it came to me as a New Old Stock NOS head, yes. I am expecting payment from someone who wants it. So, it is likely sold.
  4. New Old Stock P90A cylinder head. Excellent condition. $700 plus reg Fed EX shipping to your zip code. See pics:
  5. $330 for wheels only - $400 with tires on the wheels. These wheels are in really good condition. Round and none are curbed. The dirt/brake dust cleans off easily with a rag and some WD40. Full width from edge rim to edge of rim is right at 7 inches. Measuring inside bead to bead, I get 6.5 inches. Back spacing is dead on 4 inches. I got these with a car I purchased and the owner said he picked up these wheels from the local Z club president - in CO. Wheel lug holes have quality inserts with tapered seats. Even though these are copies of the Enkei 92, they look to be quite good quality. Will polish up nicely without a lot of effort, or clean them and run them as is. Note, one center cap is slightly different writing. Tires have some age on them but are in good condition with decent tread left. Two tires are Yokohoma AVS, and two are Nitto Radial HP If you don't want the tires, I will dismount them. Willing to ship the wheels only - will not ship with tires.
  6. inline6


  7. Located in Atlanta. This part has been sitting in a box for many years - obviously. Fits 240z. In excellent condition with rubber contacts to protect glass in good shape. No mounting hardware included (evidently lost). See pics. Hardware could be made, or ideally, you may have hardware but your louver may be in really bad shape after years of service. $80 plus Fed Ex standard shipping cost. Garrett
  8. inline6

    Adding turbo to non-turbo ZX motor?

    All the same, we get notified by email of new posts to these old threads. And in this case, I'm still alive to see it! Thanks mel marabante. I think a lot of people just default to the ZX turbo motors because they were already turbo. I don't think that is necessarily the smart way to go. If you are going to run the stock efi, then maybe. Others have the experience here - not me. I have an F54 flat top now and decided to stay NA as I'm not ready to drop the cash or time on all the custom parts that I'd go with if I went turbo. I mean, I'd want to go aftermarket efi, custom intake, custom stainless exhaust, aftermarket injectors, etc. The works! Instead, I'm putting together a tripple 44 mikuni, big cam motor for now. I'd be willing to bet I won't be happy when all is said and done and I'll be pursuing the turbo route I was thinking about in 2004!
  9. OZ connection, understood. For all I know the porting I'm doing could be a big mistake or done incorrectly, but I'm changing the car's purpose. I have several other cars now and my Z has become almost exclusively a track time car. In the last year or so, I've done 3 track events and driven it on the street once. The cam that is going in is pretty radical. From posts on Hybridz.org, it seems that several believe my 10.1 compression won't be adequate. We shall see. I am also changing from the stock SU's and stock manifold to a long Cannon manifold and tripple 44 Mikuni's. The porting has to match the cam and the carb changes... So, before and after of just the porting isn't really important. All the work that had been done to the head previously has remained untouched. Basically, it was just new guides, seats, and valves with some smoothing of the bowls under the seats... I had previously matched the intake ports to the stock intake manifold, with porting limited to about an inch into the ports. Now, I have added some combustion chamber work to reduce the restriction around the restricted flow areas of the valves against the combustion chamber walls, enlarged the stock ports to 1.545" (while moving the openings up as much as possible - staying away from the bottom of the ports). I've also ported the manifold extensively... No flow bench and not a whole lot of info out there on what exactly to do - understandably I guess. We'll just have to see how well (or not well) it works. Diseazed, I'll send you the pm.
  10. I'm in central VA, in case that makes it more convenient (but am happy to ship the head), and I am looking for an engine builder/shop to do a general check of valve and guide wear and a to perform a quality valve job. The head was originally redone by the guy that did most of Malvern Racing's machine shop work. It has Manley stainless valves (1mm larger intake) and hardened seats already. I've spent a bunch of time over the winter modifying the combustion chambers and porting it and a tripple manifold in preparation for putting in a high lift/duration cam and tripple mikuni's. So, the work I'm looking to have done is likely just a valve job and possibly the cam installation. I am looking for first class work. Who are the go to shops for Nissan L-series these days?
  11. inline6

    Who else is SNOWED IN?

    Yep, me too. My beater Honda Accord is my "snow" vehicle and it won't move with this much on the ground. Not used to getting more than a few inches at a time around here.
  12. inline6

    Nissan Motorsports square port header gasket NLA

    Anyone know where to get a good quality paper gasket instead of the hooker piece? I need one for my head because of the porting that has been done - as John C mentions. Is the MSA one any good? Garrett
  13. I read the post(s) about stumbling with the long runner Cannon manifold. I am in the process of switching over from SU's to Mikuni 44's on the Cannon and I know I am not going to be happy with a stumble :mad: I am curious... Why would the Mikuni service manual specify such an incorrect specification? I hear what you say about the pilot jet and what you experienced. In a futile attempt to think through this logically, I can't understand why that would help. There are two things going on with the pump. The pump nozzle regulates the duration of fuel injection as does changing the length of stroke on the pump rod. According to the manual, the larger the nozzle bore, the shorter the duration of the fuel injection. And the longer the stroke, the longer the duration of fuel injection. Seems logical that by playing with the two, you could come up with longer/shorter duration fat or skinny streams of fuel injection (you evidently had the same logic or you wouldn't have tried what you did). And if these carbs are set up with 3mm of stroke instead of 7.5, then won't that greatly shorten the fuel stream injected - a potential cause of the stumble? Maybe what is needed is a really long duration, skinny stream of fuel... That is longer stroke, smaller pump? Also, according to the service manual, the pilot (fuel) jet is functional at low and medium speeds, or in another place in the manual, only up to 20% throttle opening. People have said that they get a stumble when at say 2-3k RPM and they punch it. Again, according to the manual, a lean condition is created because fuel being heavier than air, when the throttle plates open, the flow of fuel will lag behind the flow of air. And, once you kick the throttle plates open all the way, the pilot system should be out of the picture... Not sure why what makes sense on paper doesn't work in real life. I plan to buy a narrow or maybe even wide band O2 sensor and try to go about this as scientifically as possible. Did you use one when you were making changes? By the way, Dave from Malvern was a friend. I grew up in Charlottesville. I bought a hot rod 510 in college that he helped me with. He had me install a 490/290 Nissan comp cam in the L-20B 2.3L which also had 44's. Changes he had me do to the carbs? 34 chokes were too small for that displacement he said. Install 40mm chokes. Also, he said I needed larger pilots and pump jets. Pilots ended up being 57.5 and pumps went from 35's to 50's.
  14. inline6

    L-28 dynojet

    I don't have before and after runs with this exhaust. I used to run the same header and two separate pipes that were 1 and 3/4" in diameter along with 4 glass packs. In fact, that system was the complete Clifford Research exhaust which was the old Datsun Competition Department's exhaust set up for the street. There is a picture of it in the "How to Hotrod and Race Your Datsun" which I scanned and include here Years ago, I fabbed a straight pipe section which I put in place of the glasspacks while I was at the track. For the first session, I left the glasspacks on. During the remaining sessions, I switched to the straight pipes. In addition to a lot more noise, I noted the engine speed I could achieve on the back straight was several hundred RPM higher with the straight pipes. To me, that meant the street exhaust could be improved upon. That is why I went with two, 2" pipes when the old glasspacks wore out. It doesn't sound as nice, but the bigger pipes breathe better. The car revs out quicker in third and fourth and hits higher RPMs in fourth just like when I had the straight pipes on. So, if my HP is a bit high, I guess it could be the exhaust. I think it could be mild porting in the exhaust ports too. I'm told a little work there makes a big difference. But then again, that port work was there before all the stuff about exhausts I mentioned above.
  15. I have two brand new 44's and two older ones that were on my 510 years ago. Looking at the Mikuni 44PHH manual and the Honsowetz book 'How to Modify your Datsun/Nissan Engine' (page 113), both call for 7.5 mm of stroke at the accelerator pump lever. Measuring the new Mikunis, which I assume were assembled correctly, as well as the old ones, I am coming up with only 3-3.5 mm of stroke for each of the four carbs. All of them have the cotter pin in the middle hole. All four have 2 thick washers stacked on the rod above the lever and the spring. Seems like taking those thick washers out and putting just one thin one on either side of the pump lever (like the manual shows) would be in order. Then adjust the pump rod length as necessary. Then again, maybe the 7.5mm spec is incorrect. Any thoughts on whether having these things set up for 3-3.5 mm is right?

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