JDMjunkies.ch

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JDMjunkies.ch last won the day on January 26 2018

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  1. Yeah it has been way too long since a last project update. The garage is still far from done, but it's slowly getting there (more on that in an other post). Last week i got the EK9 in it's new home. Finally: So i think it's time to carefully crank up the "Fairlady Z" project again... What better way to re-start a project than buying new tools? exactly 🙂 Got myself some air tools like a rattle gun and tire filler tool with Manometer. And a little extension hose drum too 🙂 In order to make some space in the new garage, i decided to put the ole L24 on the motorstand instead of having it on that old wheel on the little dolly which is quite unpractical. To do so i had to take of the clutch. thanks to the new rattle gun, this was a piece of cake: So i had her lifted on the engine stand: Tadaa... looks much more professional and is way more practical too 🙂 And while at it anyway i decided to remove the old fan clutch and fan blades too: Here we go... Hoping for more news again soon. still a lot of other work in the house / workshop / garage, but i see some light at the end of the tunnel 🙂
  2. Dont want to hijack Kat's thread here. We can have a further discussion in another place. just a few inputs here: I can see that chipped part contains a piece of PCB track which is now broken. You can simply replace / "bridge" it with a wire soldered to two corresponding points on the PCB to complete the track again. Those old PCB's are always single or double layer only, so easy to fix broken tracks. You can see on page 7 of the previously posted schematics where the tracks go. But i have to admit those old schematics are a bit tricky sometimes 🙂 Another tip (probably solves your problem) is to replace all the electrolytic capacitors (All that have a + and - symbols in the schematics): They contain an electrolytic fluid which dries out after several years and can cause a lot of weird "scratching" noises and other faults. Also marked as "electrolytic" in the parts list on Page 10. Replace all of them and you will have a lot of electronic gremlins elmininated, and / or expanded the lifetime of the unit for at least another 5 to 10 years. Make sure to use the same specified parts as listed in the parts list or marked on the parts. I recommand to use at least 85°C temperature rated components, even better 105°C capaciters. Even if the radio never gets that hot it will have a longer lifespan and the price difference is only a few cents. Other than that i can't see a lot of problematic parts. Except maybe the mechanical sliders / Switches, which are easy to replace or clean with a specific cleaner spray (using cheap contact spray or WD40 may solve noise issues on the sliders and mechanical potentiometers for a short period, but will significant decrease the lifespan of the component in long term view, as those cheap / wrong sprays may attack the coal-contacts).
  3. Hey Gav, You can get the service Manual / Schematics / parts list for the Hitachi TM-1081ZB here: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/hitachi_tm-1081-zb_all_transistor_auto_radio_1970_sm.pdf If you need any further support regarding the electronics repairs, you can ask me. I'm a former audio-/Video electrician with a couple of years daily experience in repairing old radios. Jus hit me up. i can guide you through the restauration of old electronics if needed. Preview pic only, click Link above for full file with all the pages.
  4. Yes he's from the UK. I think just give hime a phone-call or send him an email. I got in touch through facebook with his (i assume) fiance who handled all the orders and email, but i think you can contact him directly through the contact on the sticker. I guess that's why they put the stickers on the parts *lol*
  5. Well my bodyshop is an excellent guy, but he surely takes his time to get all the details right. I love that, but i want my car back before i retire. That's why i always search for the best possible solution to make life as easy as possible for him. Lately i often saw those yellow panels from UK popping up on various sites. One of the "problematic" areas is stil the Rear lower valance. I got one from MSA so far and it's ok for most of the "american" restaurations i guess, but not for me... The main problem beeing that the Curvature from the original lower valance is missing. I thought i'd give it a try and got it today: I'm surprised about how different it is and how great it looks. Also got confirmed that it's the original sheet metal thickness as the cars came with. You can clearly see the "curvature" in this picture. The main difference aside from that is the "lip" at the bottom end (see first picture) and the more accurate shape at the exhaust area. Here's panel from MSA, see the differences? All a bout the details.. I really can recommand the yellow one above. They don't have a website but i often see these (and many other 240Z parts from them) pop up on ebay and various facebook pages. Price is also nice if you ask me 🙂
  6. Nothing big, but finally something car related again 🙂 I recently got contacted by a nice guy in Czechia who just made sets of OEM reproduction stickers for all those inspection and small supplier stickers which will need replacement when the car is done for the people who know. Got them today. From the first sight they seem pretty nice with those glossy finnish, etc. But will compare them at another point. Nevertheless. something to keep the project alive. Also bought some more stuff which should arrive here by next week or so.
  7. Not 100% sure, i don't think they're nos, but replated items or reproduction. anyway, the look awesome and all the details are right. they even offer two different versions depending on the year of the car 😉 Yes i know, but since i was ordering there anyway, i thought i get them along 😉
  8. This all started with a friend who was asking for my help to import some strut tower braces for an MX-5 for one of his friends. So i made an offer. Then he decided to add some small pieces for himself for his Kenmeri Skyline build. And when i realized i had to order bits and pieces from shops like rubber-soul, M-Speed, RS-Start and Revive Jalopy, i decided it couldn't be wrong to add a few bits and pieces for my own 240Z project. That's when another friend of ours stepped in and was asking for some Parts for his Hakosuka build. So today i finally got the big order of small bits and pieces from Japan. These were the parts for me: Rubber soul / NGK blue spark plug wires, that will fit my colour theme perfectly: Some rubber trunk lid / hatch stoppers a Factory R160 / R180 / R200 Differential Service manual Window wiper boots: Windscreen washer nozzles: rear drum cylinder rubbers: And a free rubber soul calendar And some free catalogues: And then the KGC10 Hakosuka Skyline GT parts: And then some Kenmeri / Yonmeri Skyline GC110 parts:
  9. It seems like currently nice parts are looking for me, rather then i'm looking for them 🙂 But lets start at the beginning. The garage-build is coming along nicely, with temporary lighting now installed: With the House-build as a first priority now, i don't look for parts atm. But then (as with the mikuni's i bought lately) something popped up for a great price which has been on my shopping list for quite a while: A NOS splash under guard panel, which arrived today: I think now i have officially all the body panels together, including the "optional" parts, or parts that are, say, more functional than visible. This will prevent the engine bay from getting too dirty and wet. Since these panels are prone to stone chips, most of them are quite dented and rusty, or completely missing (as it was on both of my cars), so it's rare to come along a nice piece like this one. And for a reasonable price that too.. The seller in Hungary was also nice enough to add a free set of what i assume are reproduction Datsun / Nissan colour code stickers. I need to investigate further on these. Paint is still far away in my project so i haven't spent too much time investigating on all those small details like stickers. But i absolutely love them. Thanks a lot for those!
  10. I haven't got much to show you honestly. The House / Workshop / Garage build is coming along nicely and keeps me distracted from the car projects. And that for at least another 6 months. And the panelbeater is recovering from a broken nose and i'snt able to work at the moment. However This saturday was a milestone in that: I went to check out some potential new garage lifts. The grey one is actually my favourite so far: However i felt like i HAVE to do something for the cars every now and then. so i decided to take apart the FET intake manifold. so i can have the parts cleaned and replated with my next load. Before: During And after. It surely does look good in my opinion 🙂 Will be even better once it's blasted, cleaned and all the parts are plated and back into position...
  11. Now it has 4 wheels, three carbs and two seats, so i guess it's a 432 now? 😂😂
  12. I randomly seem to stumble on nice stuff by accident. I always dreamed about triple Mikunis for my Z, but i always felt in the current situation with the house going on i save them for buying them later, even with rapidly rising prices. Then one day i accidently came accross these nice carbs for sale on an Austrian ads website. A bit of negotiation, a payment and they arrived here today: They are genuine japan made Mikuni (Solex) PHH40 S5 (5-screw) carbs. You might wonder why PHH40? I don't plan to run any crazy numbers, so the PHH40 should be nice with my calculations. we'll see. i think i can swap them for PHH44 when i figure out that i was wrong in future. The deal was too god to say now. it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. They have been beautifully restored. Probably will zinc plate all the bolts but not sure yet: It even gets better: They're fully restored, and came with a free set of intake side gaskets and beautiful velocity stacks. After all i'm very happy with my purchase and i think my engine setup comes along nicely with the FET Intake manifold and the Kakimoto valve cover. The whole engine side of things is still on a bit on hold, but when i find good parts like this, i just have to save them for the future 🙂
  13. While having all the grille pieces disassembled, i thought i better take advantage of it and straighten all the pieces before i have them zinc-plated. So i pulled out my best (nonexistant) panel-beater skills and hammered the parts as straight as i could. A few examples: Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: .