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JDMjunkies.ch last won the day on January 26 2018

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  1. Well yeah, i have yet another two new books to add to my ever evolving list of Z-related books i have to read and translate when i find some time. 1) Fairlady Z Story and history, Vol. 1 - The 50th Anniversary Chronicles. A book about the history of the Z including the development It contains some backgroundinformation. for example about road testing in America: And some of the racing cars. I've just been flicking through it yet, but it seems it seems to focus on the car globally with pictures showing old woking station, american race cars but also the japanese. so this might be an interessteing one 🙂 2) Japanese masterpiece series [Vol.12] - Nissan Fairlady This book is actually a bit older (released in August 1973). The cool thing is, it contains some backgronud information but also a lot of nice drawings and technical information about the different version. as shown below. Still have to read it as well, but they seem to be (aside from the factory books) some of the more promising and serious books i bought. But i still have to prove my initial feelings about them 🙂
  2. So, My panelbeater started work on the passenger side floors. Those hungarian-made floor pans came in.. before: After: Still have to be welded etc. but overall fitment looks nice. Here is the bottom side fitment together with the NOS frame rails. Seems pretty spot-on!
  3. Just another update from my Metal-wizard. The driver side lower frame has been cutout A new piece has been fabricated And now it's back in. I guess the next big part will be the LH rear quarter and inner wheel well.. I'll go to have a closeup look soon 🙂
  4. Got some more news from my bodyshop. Nothing big, but another step closer to a finished shell. The spare wheel well is back in and primered with rust protection and also sealed:
  5. I don't want to contradict. I just was refering to my Japanese Sport option catalogues which i have. All of them from 1971.11 to 1973.12 still list the "Izumi" type steering wheel as the optional item. (which seems to be the one to the left in your photo) And then the next sport option catalogue which i have is from 1979.10 which is the the oldest one i have which lists this type of steering wheel. Also i just noticed that the one you have has the holes covered? do you have any background information on this? Yeah i was thinking the same. but i thought it might be closer to the original story than most other english books. However i tend to read these kind of books with a big grain of salt and it's more of an entertainment thing when i have a few free minutes.
  6. After a long time i got some parts for my Z-project again. The first item is a book about Yutaka "Mr. K Katayama". Some people think that his role with the Z is a bit overrated by the average media. But since the book is written originally by Japanese Takashi Ashikawa in japanese and has been translated since. i guess there might be more truth behind it than the average glorifying of Mr. K. I haven't read a single word so i have to dive into it first befor i can say anything more.. It might sound repetitive but the coolest things i tend to find when i don't look for them. I have seen the "competition" steering wheel for sale in the usual Z-specialist shops but i never planned to buy one. Unti recently one popped up new for a good price in a local secondhand website. It even came with the Japanese "fairlady Z" Horn button. A bit of research before purchase revealed that this is most probably one of the pretty good JDM-car-parts replica items based on an original Mold (o a mold from an original competition steering wheel). Anyhow the quality is outstanding and it's nice to have! And here some siza comparison shots take next to the original "fake wood" steering wheel of my 1972 Z's: Those "competition" steering wheels were introduced (to my knowledge) years after the original S30 was released (back then a different steering wheel was optionally available) but has sine been a popular mod on the 240Z and or Fairlady Z with prices for original ones skyrocketing. As far as i know t his has also been sold for the "Hakosuka" skyline but with different horn buttons. I'm not 100% sure but i believe to remember that there was even a second version of this steering wheel which was deeper. but i might be wrong. Here's a shot from the 1979 Nissan sports option catalogue: After all it's a really nice piece to have so i'm happy with my purchase 🙂
  7. Thanks a lot sir. Only problem with this thread is the slow progress, lol 🙂 but since the house is finnished now, i hope i slowly find more time to get back into the project 🙂
  8. Good news. My bodyshop guy is back at work with my car. First he welded back the sandblasted rea bumper mounting brackets: Then the inside of the trunk floor got sanded and painted with rust protection: Before the rear lower valance got fitted and welded back in blacke. Finally i got a rear end again. Wow ❤️ Next week the spare tire wheel well should go back in, before work on the left rear quarter starts 🙂 This should go faster compared to the left side, since i have a complete NOS quarter panel and it doesn't have a fuel filler neck 😉
  9. Finally, a lifsign from the bodyshop. Nothing big. but the little update came along a promise that he will contune work on the car again soon. which makes me quite a bit happy. Today he got the brackets for the rear bumper sandblasted, so i assume the plan is to get the rear valance welded back on the car soon:
  10. Yeah it has been way too long since a last project update. The garage is still far from done, but it's slowly getting there (more on that in an other post). Last week i got the EK9 in it's new home. Finally: So i think it's time to carefully crank up the "Fairlady Z" project again... What better way to re-start a project than buying new tools? exactly 🙂 Got myself some air tools like a rattle gun and tire filler tool with Manometer. And a little extension hose drum too 🙂 In order to make some space in the new garage, i decided to put the ole L24 on the motorstand instead of having it on that old wheel on the little dolly which is quite unpractical. To do so i had to take of the clutch. thanks to the new rattle gun, this was a piece of cake: So i had her lifted on the engine stand: Tadaa... looks much more professional and is way more practical too 🙂 And while at it anyway i decided to remove the old fan clutch and fan blades too: Here we go... Hoping for more news again soon. still a lot of other work in the house / workshop / garage, but i see some light at the end of the tunnel 🙂
  11. Dont want to hijack Kat's thread here. We can have a further discussion in another place. just a few inputs here: I can see that chipped part contains a piece of PCB track which is now broken. You can simply replace / "bridge" it with a wire soldered to two corresponding points on the PCB to complete the track again. Those old PCB's are always single or double layer only, so easy to fix broken tracks. You can see on page 7 of the previously posted schematics where the tracks go. But i have to admit those old schematics are a bit tricky sometimes 🙂 Another tip (probably solves your problem) is to replace all the electrolytic capacitors (All that have a + and - symbols in the schematics): They contain an electrolytic fluid which dries out after several years and can cause a lot of weird "scratching" noises and other faults. Also marked as "electrolytic" in the parts list on Page 10. Replace all of them and you will have a lot of electronic gremlins elmininated, and / or expanded the lifetime of the unit for at least another 5 to 10 years. Make sure to use the same specified parts as listed in the parts list or marked on the parts. I recommand to use at least 85°C temperature rated components, even better 105°C capaciters. Even if the radio never gets that hot it will have a longer lifespan and the price difference is only a few cents. Other than that i can't see a lot of problematic parts. Except maybe the mechanical sliders / Switches, which are easy to replace or clean with a specific cleaner spray (using cheap contact spray or WD40 may solve noise issues on the sliders and mechanical potentiometers for a short period, but will significant decrease the lifespan of the component in long term view, as those cheap / wrong sprays may attack the coal-contacts).
  12. Hey Gav, You can get the service Manual / Schematics / parts list for the Hitachi TM-1081ZB here: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/hitachi_tm-1081-zb_all_transistor_auto_radio_1970_sm.pdf If you need any further support regarding the electronics repairs, you can ask me. I'm a former audio-/Video electrician with a couple of years daily experience in repairing old radios. Jus hit me up. i can guide you through the restauration of old electronics if needed. Preview pic only, click Link above for full file with all the pages.
  13. Yes he's from the UK. I think just give hime a phone-call or send him an email. I got in touch through facebook with his (i assume) fiance who handled all the orders and email, but i think you can contact him directly through the contact on the sticker. I guess that's why they put the stickers on the parts *lol*
  14. Well my bodyshop is an excellent guy, but he surely takes his time to get all the details right. I love that, but i want my car back before i retire. That's why i always search for the best possible solution to make life as easy as possible for him. Lately i often saw those yellow panels from UK popping up on various sites. One of the "problematic" areas is stil the Rear lower valance. I got one from MSA so far and it's ok for most of the "american" restaurations i guess, but not for me... The main problem beeing that the Curvature from the original lower valance is missing. I thought i'd give it a try and got it today: I'm surprised about how different it is and how great it looks. Also got confirmed that it's the original sheet metal thickness as the cars came with. You can clearly see the "curvature" in this picture. The main difference aside from that is the "lip" at the bottom end (see first picture) and the more accurate shape at the exhaust area. Here's panel from MSA, see the differences? All a bout the details.. I really can recommand the yellow one above. They don't have a website but i often see these (and many other 240Z parts from them) pop up on ebay and various facebook pages. Price is also nice if you ask me 🙂
  15. Nothing big, but finally something car related again 🙂 I recently got contacted by a nice guy in Czechia who just made sets of OEM reproduction stickers for all those inspection and small supplier stickers which will need replacement when the car is done for the people who know. Got them today. From the first sight they seem pretty nice with those glossy finnish, etc. But will compare them at another point. Nevertheless. something to keep the project alive. Also bought some more stuff which should arrive here by next week or so.