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JDMjunkies.ch last won the day on January 26 2018

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  1. That might be true. It seems that JDM-Car-Parts sources most or many of their parts by more or less known shops in Japan, hence their Company name and their range of mostly expensive but also usually high quality parts.
  2. Window roller kit was from this guy in Australia. He also made the door hinge repair kit shown a few posts before: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324337826467 The harness tabs / Cable clamps came from JDM-Car-parts.com. These are rubber or Plastic dipped, vs the 240Zrubberparts.com items, which are similar, but require some kind of shrinking tube to be installed. I went with the first option because i thought they're more OEM look-and-feel and probably lasting longer than the shrinking-tube version, which you see more often.
  3. Despite work beeing a bit crazy and me don't finding a lot of time to work on the cars, i at least managed to get some parts for the next steps. First of all a set of weld-in cable clamps for the bodyshop so they can replace the old ones which became quite brittly from the many years and have been painted over several times. Some go into the engine bay and hold the original wire harness, while some go besides the seat, to hold the internal wire harness... Then i got a window roller repair kit all the way from australia. i was not sure what to expect when i bought it on ebay, but i have to admit it seems pretty solid: the kit comes with replacement rollers which are not 3d-printed or something but seem to be nicely cast items. they replace the original rollers. Now i just have to find out how to peen those new pins in nicely. As you can see i defintely need new ones...
  4. When i prepared the doors for the Bodyshop, i realized that some of the hinges were worn out pretty much. So i decided to give my spare set an overhaul. it took me a while to figure out how to get the old pins out. but now i got a solution and also finally a use for my new press 🙂 The pin got a bit bent during the process, but shouldn't be a problem: Here's a comparison of the old vs new pin you can clearly see some heavy wear on t he old pin: The sleeve things were pretty worn out too and basicalyl fell apart once i touched it: The inside was easy to get out with the right tools and a hammer: Here we go, everything out and new ones ready to go in: During the process i also wanted to snadblast the old hinges, but realized my compressor is way to small. Luckily my father-in-law offered me to swap mine with his bigger one: Still could be bigger, but it works ok for small parts: Here's one of the door hinge parts freshly blasted: Next? i still need to find out how i can remove the springs on the upper hinge to get the same job done there. and if i should paint the hinges first before assembly, or do it the opposite way? no hurry 🙂 And i got an update from the bodyshop too, they got the fender and door installed for alignment. and realized that one of the previous owners had the brilliant idea of smoothing (cleaning) out the body lines in the front fender, as you can see: Sommething i didn't notice so far... damnit another thing to rectify again. well 🙂 at lest there is already a first progress.. Hope for some news again soon.
  5. Only one picture today, but an important milestone in the project: The bodywork starts again! A few hours ago, i was at the new bodyshop to discuss the first steps and bring them some parts. The car is in good company and the workshop is huge. This is just one little messy corner where it is temporary stored until work begins next week (fingers crossed). The rest of the shop is clean and busy with many people at work. I met the panel beater the first time and he seems to be a really nice dude. They promised me to send pictures every now and then, and since they're basically just a little detour on my way from work back home, i guess i will have regular visits to them too 🙂 So let's hope for some updates soon...
  6. Just a very small update. While preparing the passenger side fender for the bodyshop, i realized i dont have any nice fender emblems anymore, so i immediately ordered a set, since i saw they were still available new from Nissan: Nothing crazy, but another little piece of the Puzzle is ready to be installed, once the shell and body panels are painted...
  7. Finally - the day has come, where the car left the home for the second time for a visit at a bodyshop. This time a different one... The agreed timeline is to complete the body until the end of the year (roughly). I said quality comes before a tough timeline, but also they agreed on not letting the car sit in a corner for 5 years like the previous panelbeater did... The plan is to straighten the chassis, which needs a bit alignment, replace all rusty panels and then add the bodypanels and align all gaps, before having everything dismantled again and ready for the paintshop.... And until then i'll plan my next steps. They already took some panels with them too, but i'll visit them soon, bring the passenger side door and seat rail for test fit and have a look around their shop. I'm as motivated as i haven't been in a long while to push this project as far as possible again...
  8. Yes! On monday the shell is going back to the bodyshop. I chose a new panelbeater with a bit more professional background. The other one was OK, but this time it goes to a specialist which is usually handling cars in a more exclusive price-range. Also he's not alone but has a hand full of people on hand and compared to my previous guy - has all the tools required in-house. Also he just seems a bit more of a "do-er" and less of a "talker" - my kind of guy. And he promised me to complete the body until the end of the year for a fair price. So let's have the fingers corssed that the project is back to 100 again now... This means i had to prepare a few things for the bodyshop. Aside from a few drawings with measures and dimensions and other details, he asked me to prepare the passenger side. the first thing he's going to attack is fix and finalize the work of the previous guy. on the first look he told me the work was pretty good, but there are a few small details to rectify especially the rocker panel that doesn't align with the door. something the previous guy wanted to fix himself before i took the car back... So first: there is still a lot of media from the sand blasting falling whenever you move the car... So i took out the vacuum cleaner and tried to suck out all remaining sand wherever possible (2nd attemt, and for sure not the last one...) The previous owner t hought it was coo to have the car "clean" and closed all the holes for the fender and hood emblems. Luckily i have a good fender with the original holes in stock. so i took measures there ...and transferred them to the other fender, to drill the holes. I'm quite satisfied with the result (only temporary mockup, emblem is not fully pushed in) Ignore the black marks. they were wrong, but after drilling, i decided to give the holes a bit of rust protection by spraing it with some primer. i probably went a bit over board with the sprayed area 🙂 Time to put it on the car: The panelbeater also asked me to install the doors and locks so he can align everything neatly and make sure the panel gaps are nice everywhere. And the doors side. Feels good to "assemble" something, even though it is only a temporary mockup with some "scrap" parts. Will be nice to install the other set which is freshly zinc plated or rechromed... While working on the doors i also realized there is some rust on the welds inside the door skin. The welds came from the previous panel-beater, who made sure the bodylines are there again. it seems the previous owner also "cleaned" those. i cleaned the welding spots with a brush and added some rust conversion primer there (no photo of that): While sorting through the doors parts i thought it was about time to give my "new" sandblaster a try: Worked pretty well, except i realized my compressor is too small. Luckily i already have a deal with my father-in-law to exchange ours (he needs a smaller one, i can have his more powerful one): If everything goes well you'll see some picturs of this car being loaded onto a trailer on monday, along with a load of parts. So happy to see the project taking up speed again...
  9. KFVintageJDM has been pushing out new panels almost weekly. i saw they now even released a whole damn reproduction rear quarter panel! Something many people have been looking for for a long time! One of the lately released parts are the inner rocker seatbelt mount's. I'm not even sure if i need those, but since they were available, i added them to the package. I got myself a partial firewall. I only need the lower section, which is quite messed up in my car, but thought it might be easier to have something to work with than make it from scratch: As you can see on the left the part that is inside the fender is pretty messed up with various welds, rust, bondo and whatnot, so it's definitely good to have a replacement. More news tomorrow and next week again...
  10. I originally posted on my build thread about the different NOS Frame rails i have here: @Patcon & @CanTechZ requested that i make a special thread for it, so you can discuss. so here is the same information again: @Namerow: Since you cought my interest on this, i decided to have a deeper look into this. I have two different sets of NOS frame rails, one is grey and the other one black. one set is already sold, one grey item has already been cut up by my previous bodyshop to fix my chassis: Here you can see the two sets with the partnumbers labelled on it. The main differences are the mounting brackets (see red circles), some "wings" which were added on the grey version (see blue marks), and the extended length of the tension rod mounting "buckets" (sees green circles) Otherwise the two are pretty much the same, aside from some small clamps and brackets which have been added: -E4150 is used up to June 1972 according the european microfiches. and it also seems to match with my late 1971 production chassis i have. -N4150 is not clear. i didn't find it in any of my parts list, it seems weither to be from the 2+2 nor any other model, but because of the part numbering system, i just think it's an July 1972+ item. I didn't measure every single part, but wherever i checked on approx. 5 random spots, it was always 1,5mm thickness of sheet metal: here are some additional photos, see additional cable clamp in the black version, Additional "Wing" is well visible here: extende shape of the inside reinforcment: slightly different shape of the inside mounting bracket / reinforcement (left edge): Here you can see the end "wings" on the grey one, but it seems like the "leftower" piece on t he black ones have just been bent up in the grey version. Small additional bracket on t he grey version (center) Here you can nicely see the different style of mounting brakets: (the center one of the grey one is bent, i t would look similar as the other ones on the grey one. the additional "holes" on the left side are because the bracket on t he inside has been drilled out by the bodyshop, these wouldn't usually be there: Here's a closeup: Here the overall sisize difference of the tension rod mounting bucket is well visible: From what i can see and what i've experienced so far, the KFvintagejdm parts (no advertizing here) come pretty close to the black ones from the picture. The only part missing here is the "bucket" for the tension rod: they currently sell them only in two pieces, but if you look at the photos and drawings in the parts manual exploded view, you can see even the original ones where produced like this and then welded together. so in my opinion this is the best you can get if you can't find OEM ones. It's not well visible in my photos above, but even the "teeth" visible on this one seem to be as on the original ones (the part where the upper and the lower part join). Look closely in the last photo which i posted above, then you can see the "teeth" on the original grey one from a side view):
  11. They're Part No. 56105-N3785 from the 260Z 2+2, so they're not the correct ones for the 240Z, allthough they would most probably fit. i just got them as part of the package deal and use them as a reference for my Suspension post You can find the correct part no for the 240Z in the parts manual or here: in the said suspension post
  12. @Namerow: Since you cought my interest on this, i decided to have a deeper look into this. I have two different sets of NOS frame rails, one is grey and the other one black. one set is already sold, one grey item has already been cut up by my previous bodyshop to fix my chassis: Here you can see the two sets with the partnumbers labelled on it. The main differences are the mounting brackets (see red circles), some "wings" which were added on the grey version (see blue marks), and the extended length of the tension rod mounting "buckets" (sees green circles) Otherwise the two are pretty much the same, aside from some small clamps and brackets which have been added: -E4150 is used up to June 1972 according the european microfiches. and it also seems to match with my late 1971 production chassis i have. -N4150 is not clear. i didn't find it in any of my parts list, it seems weither to be from the 2+2 nor any other model, but because of the part numbering system, i just think it's an July 1972+ item. I didn't measure every single part, but wherever i checked on approx. 5 random spots, it was always 1,5mm thickness of sheet metal: here are some additional photos, see additional cable clamp in the black version, Additional "Wing" is well visible here: extende shape of the inside reinforcment: slightly different shape of the inside mounting bracket / reinforcement (left edge): Here you can see the end "wings" on the grey one, but it seems like the "leftower" piece on t he black ones have just been bent up in the grey version. Small additional bracket on t he grey version (center) Here you can nicely see the different style of mounting brakets: (the center one of the grey one is bent, i t would look similar as the other ones on the grey one. the additional "holes" on the left side are because the bracket on t he inside has been drilled out by the bodyshop, these wouldn't usually be there: Here's a closeup: Here the overall sisize difference of the tension rod mounting bucket is well visible: From what i can see and what i've experienced so far, the KFvintagejdm parts (no advertizing here) come pretty close to the black ones from the picture. The only part missing here is the "bucket" for the tension rod: they currently sell them only in two pieces, but if you look at the photos and drawings in the parts manual exploded view, you can see even the original ones where produced like this and then welded together. so in my opinion this is the best you can get if you can't find OEM ones. It's not well visible in my photos above, but even the "teeth" visible on this one seem to be as on the original ones (the part where the upper and the lower part join). Look closely in the last photo which i posted above, then you can see the "teeth" on the original grey one from a side view):
  13. Here is another picture from the backside: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2013-01-11/240z-new-frame-rails/ i think there more pictures on my website, but need some time to find them. I haven't checked in detail, but usually the KFvintageJDM parts are pretty close to OEM when it comes to such details. Here is where i found them in 2012: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2012-09-28/240z-datsun-parts-heaven/ Here is where i found most of the pother parts last year (also includes a set of frame rails, but all these parts have ben sold already): https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2021-02-23/240z-the-big-barn-find-parts-lot/
  14. Good news. The Z project is back! Well it was never gone and i've been continuously working on it, but due to an management education i had on the weekend for the past two years, a big step forward in my job and many other things in life, the project was progressing much slower than i wished. But i'm a guy to make long-term plans and i've always had the plan to get things done when life allows me to. So here we are. My school is completed. Well i still have my exams in mid april so i'm working hard on that, but until then that and my job will still occupy most of my free time. The advantage of my new job position is that i earn some more money and in the meantime i've saved some especially to complete this project. I've also really longing to get back into the garge and get my hands greasy. Over the past weeks i've been looking for a bodyshop to complete the work. The old one was OK, but there was a bit of a difficulty when it came to communication and it was always a side-project for the bodyshop, which was earning money with small repairs, insurrance cases and fixer-upper projects of US-cars. He had a strong history in japanese cars, but i had the feeling he lost a bit of interest in my project. The other thing is - he was a talented panel-beater, but didn't have the tools himself, so whenever he had to bend some sheetmetal, he had to go to his friends shop. this was time consuming and i had the feeling i paid for much of it. So i decided instead to go to a more upperclass Oldtimer specialist, which usually deals with cars in a different price range. I was asking around and got some good tips. Finally i have a nice bloke coming over to check out the car and details in the coming days. we'll see how that turns out. so far i have a very good feeling. But i also started to collect all the panels required to complete the project Yes, puzzle time 🙂 Only the box section on the LH side is missing, but i hope the panelbuilder can make this himself. Labor is expensive in switzerland, so i decided to get these ready-made patch panels from the US, to delete the US-spec turn signal holes on the US spec rear quarter panel, which i got. Why pay a dude an hour of work to measre and create such a panel, i can buy a ptch piece for 20 bucks? Additionally a collected a few NOS items from some nice guys.- like an original hood hinge: And a complete choke cable assembly (ok, this one isused, but in almost mint condition!): and some more parts. Engine gasket kit, Starter solenoid, Rectifier diode, SU carb gasket kit and a wheel bearing: I also (again) bought a nice set of vintage swiss Datsun stickers. You may have seen them before, but the special one in this set is the white one: Its from the early 70ies and the slogan "Datsun bringt neue Werte" (Datsun brings new values) was used on many of the original Swiss Datsun (240Z) Documentation: Here is an 1971 advertizing where you could order above stickers for free (see center) I also found this nice swiss Datsun keychain from the early eighties. it was cheap, so i had to have it 🙂 From the same era is this 1984 Datsun / Nissan brochure, which i will use for my Datsun switzerland chronicles story which i'm working on. The swiss Prince / PMC Mikado pricelist from 1966 has already been added to the "Prince" part of the story For the coming "commercial vehicle" chapter, i obtained a few nice and rarer brochures of commercial vehicles, like this datsun Homer, King-cab, Urvan, and Vanette brochures: That's it for today. I have some more documents for the story on the way currently, and also a nice JDM-only piece for the Z is on the way from Japan. so stay tuned for more news soon...
  15. When i got my "west germany" Spec turn signals last week, i went through my own parts to compare them, and realized i have everything ready to assemble a nice pair of restored ones. A perfect task for a saturday morning. so i got everything ready and started the project: From the three complete sets i have, i realize only one of the amber lenses was still without cracks: What a difference a little cleanup in warm soap water makes: Then i cleaned the rubberpieces and chrome trim with a bit of warm water too and had the rubber seals greased up with a bit of petroleum grease (Vaseline) and the chrome trim cleaned and polished with my secret weapon called "Metarex" And here we go, everything cleaned uo and assembled. looks like almost new. I will probably take one of the lenses from the "west germany" spec signals, as they're exactly the same. but until then, i just keep them as they are. Oh andi need new bulbs, the old ones are both quite corroded and i want some nice ones 🙂
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