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Here is how nice the engine looks inside. Runs without a puff of anything white or blue out the tail pipe. Heater valve leaks. Good thing there are holes in the floor to let it out on the ground.

Well it took two days, about 8 hours of work, and a lot of sweat (it’s actually a heat wave here right now, +23C yesterday) but I did it. Boy is my right arm sore. I got this thing started. Was last running in 1981. Yup

They look Abby Normal.

Clutch master and slave are new. Wouldn’t push fluid to the slave. Turns out the soft line was plugged with crud. Fixed that, and now the clutch works. Can technically make it move under its own power. SU’s need to be dismantled and cleaned, the jet tubes are frozen and it’s tough to get the mix rich enough. Runs but way too lean. Will take care of that this evening. It has to move into my yard for winter. Don’t feel like pushing it uphill, so it will get itself there, even if I use the starter motor to do it.

I cannot claim to be its first owner, just the second. It just arrived in my care last week. Apparently the rear brakes failed in 81, then never got fixed. Now if I can change the clutch hydraulics, I might take it for a spin. Who needs brakes anyway

Well beyond the scope of the thread, but... The theory behind that is that the voltage from the coil will ramp up rapidly until it reaches the point where it ionizes the air in the gap and jumps that gap. By adding that additional second gap, the voltage will rise further before it finally jumps the gap. This is because the effective gap distance is greater and a greater gap takes a higher voltage to jump. By riding the voltage curve higher and holding off the spark a little, you can get a higher energy spark. It's also helpful when there's a carbon trace buildup. The carbon trace could provide enough of a path to dissipate the coil discharge without having to spark at all. With that second gap and riding further up the voltage wave before discharge, you can sometimes burn out the carbon traces. Assuming, of course, that your coil has the nuts to consistently jump a gap that big. There are plenty of risks, but (as you found) in the old days, it could sometimes get you home in a pinch.

Sure - the thread topic is misleading at this point 3.2 L N42 block prepped by Rebello. 10.5:1 CR - 89mm bore kit . Which includes diesel crankshaft , Eagle rods , JE Pistons. He basically sent me the prepped parts and I assemble the motor . MN47 Maxima head with 44/35 Manley valves . Steve Bonk 535 lift cam , ISKY springs , retainers . BHJ damper . Kameari tensioner kit. Using a stock N42 intake with a 240sx TB . ECU is Megasquirt 3 - full sequential 42lbs injectors . D-585 COP ignition . The stock manifold was choking the engine and power started dropping at 5800rpm . Still was making 200 HP around 7k rpm . Torque peak was 4300 - again early , but the N42 has 31mm runners , so sucking through a straw.

Wow, your '71 240Z sat for almost 40 years without being started - incredible! Just think about that for a moment, the car was only 10 years old when you parked it. Congrats on bringing the old girl back to life!

Simply because I had all the parts handy, I took fresh measurements and ran some numbers: 280 throttle butterfly - 50mm diameter. This provides 1964 mm square area. The Sentra (96-98) throttle body as well as the 280ZX are also the same as the 280Z Carbs butterfly (both round and flat tops) - 46mm diameter. This provides 1662 mm square area. Now interesting (to me) is that the 1964 sq mm for the throttle body is shared between six cylinders, while the 1662 sq mm for the carbs is shared only between three cylinders instead of six. So for the fuel injection, it works out to 327 sq mm per cylinder and the carbs work out to 554 sq mm per cylinder. The carbs provide significantly more butterfly area per cylinder than the fuel injection. Now I'm sure Nissan did their research and found 50mm diameter for the EFI was good enough, but the difference is still striking. Working backwards from the carbs 554 sq mm per cylinder, you would need a 65mm diameter throttle body to get the equivalent area per cylinder. I'm no in any position to draw any conclusions from the above, but I was moving some stuff around today and had all the parts handy at the same time.

I search eBay a lot too, and see many overpriced items, as well as some deals. I have not seen anything like this before. Where everything is the same price. If you look at their sold list it is all normal pricing. I know these "store" sellers upload and relist items in bulk. I thought the uploaded might have somehow set the price the same on everything. I do find your money laundering theory interesting and quite plausible in the online auction setting. I do find it strange how the same items are in the sold list, as well as the new list when it is a single used part.

I had a 82 & 2 or 3 83's Mark. Never owned a 81, the 1st year. I remember when I bought my ignition parts from AutoSport in Seattle, the early rotor came up and the counter guy there is very sharp, put me on to it so I got the correct parts. I remember he called his supplier about it but can't remember what the difference was. I must be getting older .... Good possibility he has the wrong rotor and or a cheap cap causing his unusual problem.

To Carl.

Well, there's nothing wrong with being charter members of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Z-Car Dinosaurs. I finished that PhD and it got me out of Texas to Colorado, where things have gone very well. We have two daughters now, ages 31 and 32, and although neither has done grad school yet, I suspect the one who's a Registered Dietitian is likely to one of these days. I had forgotten about setting up the move for the Z-car group to Texas A&M, and it happened thanks to Paul's kindness. Unfortunately he passed away about 15 years ago. My general Z-car knowledge is decent on the models I have owned: 240, 280 and 280ZX. But there are many people here who have much more detailed knowledge of the systems in all of these vehicles. Folks, the reason that the Zhome website still exists is entirely Carl's effort and dedication over decades of time. My hat is always tipped to him.

My wipers worked erratically, then stopped completely. For a while, I was able to get them to work by slamming the hood, or rapping on the hood latch. I assumed the motor was bad, and started to research the Honda wiper motor conversion. I decided to remove the old motor and take a look before I ordered anything. After studying the cryptic wiring diagrams, I decided to try and bypass the relay mounted on the wiper motor and go straight to the windings. When I did this, the motor ran very reliably in both the low and high speeds. I took the cover off the relay, cleaned all the contacts, and it worked fine! I reinstalled the motor on the car, and it works better than ever. So, cleaning this relay may solve a similar problem, and avoid a motor conversion.

Jim, You are a bear for punishment! No idea what you paid for it, but I'll bet it was a pretty penny particularly since it came with a trailer hitch. Just don't see that every day. Good luck with your latest project.

Here’s a couple pics off my 83zxt engine I bought. Haven’t verified it but this might be it.

wow, guess I better up my insurance again. My 75 is as nice as this one (the green 76 that is) and I KNOW I have little rust. that's the thing that gets me, unless you personally inspect it how can you bid this kind of money on a car that is known to be rust prone. IF I ever loose my z, I think I would look into an early Mustang, unless the sheet metal support for Z's go up it just seem too big a gamble if you have to pay large sums. I would be to afraid to drive it. While I don't consider a mustang type car to be anywhere near as nice as a Z you cant deny the support makes them a nice classic to own. Hopefully the after market will take notice and make body parts a bit more available for Z's. Perhaps its just a numbers game, lot more mustangs were built and owned here so guess the demand is higher. My fav is the fast back 66, really like the looks of that car, and is one I would consider if I did not have access to a nice Z.

I think you might be getting the L20A (6-cyl) mixed up with the L20B (4-cyl). L20A rods are 133mm centre to centre. Same as late L24 and late L16.

Seems like a good idea except for the pressure concern. I wonder if a person could plumb in an electric pump and just circulate oil from the sump/pan. Of course, the oil will only be cooled to the coolant temperature level. I think it gets their anyway as it travels through the pump, block and oil filter. Oil coolers really seem more like extensions of coolant coolers. The oil should equilibrate to the temperature of the metal it passes by which is equilibrating to the coolant temperature. Where would a person place the oil temperature sensor? In the pan/sump? How do you know what a proper temperature is? When does it need extra cooling?

I really liked that green 280Z. I don't know what held the bids back. It would have done better with different wheels.

Been working on a replacement for years - lol. I knew this intake would probably be a restriction - especially for NA . I have a Canon manifold that has been taper bored and drilled for bungs . Plenum needs to be welded on . Might use same throttle body for now . I also have a diesel intake getting converted to a manifold style fuel rail and injectors.

They had it, thanks.

As a possible measure, consider making a shallow slice (say, 25% depth) along the inside length of the 90. That would preserve the integrity and appearance of the outer, visible surface and retain the broad gluing surface, while weakening the 90 enough to make the flap more inclined to lie flat. It won't be an easy cut to make, though. Maybe use a steel straight-edge clamped in place, along with one of those roller-type fabric cutters (mine has an adjustable depth limiter).

hmm well 6 look suspect for sure, the rest seem rich. this is where the color tune would come in handy, you can see if its sparking and evaluate the burn. I would move that #6 injector to another cylinder, get a new set of plugs, and see if the problem follows that injector. Also I noted your are running a plug I don't recognize. generally speaking NGK standard plugs are run with great success on L motors. If moving the injector has no effect then clearly there is a spark issue going on. did you try lifting the plug cap off a bit so there is a spark gap between the plug and the boot? just get it off a tiny bit and see if there is any change in idle. oh and do a compression test to rule out that as a problem, check all cylinders and look for even pressure. Right now I am kinda ignoring the "runs better with cap lifted". I don't doubt you its just something that does not have a clear connection yet. looking for compression, fuel, ignition even on all for now.

A985592D-63F4-4475-921D-E0875D394430.MOV

Outie

The a in the circle by the word max stands for appliance, the center caps should have that a in the midde, very hard to find centers.

Thank you! I ask as I’m pretty sure I have the same wheels on my car - just painted in the middle, so I have been trying to find who made them. There are no names in the markings, just a US patent number. Having said that, I’ve just spotted the Appliance logo at the bottom left of my photo - which until now made no sense to me.

I have to agree, those headlights are ridiculous!

Wish I could help Zup.......there are some things I leave to those whom do it for a living. Rubber trim is one of those items. LOL.

I have done a great many searches on Ebay that have super overpriced offerings. I have found this when I sort from high price to low. Sometimes its faster find what Im looking for this way. My suspicion is these offerings are for laundering money using Ebay and PayPal. Nothing else really made sense

I'd try ZTherapy.

That's what happens when you have too many projects and a big family. I am also doing all my own body and paint work. I have a build thread here on the forum

@Mark Maras Found the difference in rotors ... From his pictures, it appears he has the right one if car is later than Jan of 82 Early Late

I believe the oil pressure in the engine is an order of magnitude greater than an auto box, so the rad may not be able to take it.

The price needs to be lowered $10,000 for painting the wheels body colour 🤢

The wheels are 14 inch with 205 - 70 tires, Appliance is the brand I purchased them when I bought the car in 1976. Cost me $75 then. Don't know off set. Thanks.

We see quite a few of those here at classic car events - a Z parked next to one makes it look positively dated! Only 3000ish were sold in the US so I imagine they would be very rare over there. Sadly the 2.5 & 3.0 V8s weren’t the best engines for reliability, so I can imagine in a market where V8s are a staple diet, it was left wanting. They do sound great at full pelt though!

You've done a lot with it too, Carl. how long have we known each other through the Z Car List? I'd guess it was close to the beginning, because I know we exchanged notes on the listserv for a long time. 1987 was about the time I sold my 1976 280Z and bought the 1982 280ZX I had just before my current 1983 280 ZXT. You've been the glue holding the whole thing together. Mucho respect, my friend.

Hi Terrapin @Racer X - thanks for the feedback and help. The fact is "How to join" and "Searchable members list" - - should no longer be on the Site. Thought I had eliminated the links... but obviously had not completely done the job. I'll work on that as I get time. Just as a bit of background: We subscribers to "the Z Car List", an Email Based Z Car Discussion Group started in 1987 - started " the Internet Z Car Club" because at the time vendors offered discounts to Car Club Members. All you needed was a Club Name and your Club Membership Number. So we started a "virtual" club on the Internet. At the time we had somewhere around 12,000 subscribers. As all things Internet and Business evolved, competition for Customers drove most retail prices down and Club Membership Discounts became pretty much a thing of the past. If people shopped on-line they could usually find better prices everywhere. So the real reason and need for the Virtual Club evaporated. Secondly maintaining the Membership Data Base became more and more an issue - as it was usually based on vendor proprietary software - that was or was not supported by all the different Operating Systems on which the Web Site was hosted over the decades. Thirdly the number of volunteers with the software knowledge capable of supporting all this - became fewer and fewer. So today the Internet Z Car Club is truly virtual - it exist only in the minds of its members.

What's with those Marty Feldman eyes headlights?

Just had a look on my laptop, and it works, so, stoopit tablet, eh? A nice cross section of rides there. The 69 Camaro is my favorite of the model. Those early Mustangs are also a favorite. I really like the red Ferrari, those old Jags too. Porsches, and Austin Healey, the Chevelle, the Ford pickup . . . . . . . . I wish I could have one of each.

Just get it running and drive it. It's an old beat-up 240Z now and it will be an old beat-up 240Z after you have some fun in it. Get good insurance before hitting the road. That will be the only money you should really spend on it. That's what insurance is for, reducing risk.

I think the third pic is correct.

You don't see a Triumph Stag much any more unless you're at a British car day.

I took the Z for a test drive and I am really happy with the results. The car still handles well but now it actually has rear suspension travel so it rides nicer but is still on the firm side. Visually, I think it looks 100x better. The sunken rear suspension just let the car down and now it looks like the wheels fit the car and have some room to breathe. Below are some before and after pictures. What do you guys think?

I celebrated my 40th birthday over the Memorial Day weekend and my wife asked me what I wanted. My wish list was three things, 1. Lunch at Gloria's 2. Make me a homemade chocolate meringue pie and 3. help me put the engine back in the Z car. Needless to say I have a wonderful wife and I got everything I wanted for my birthday. It took us about an hour and a half to get the engine in. Getting it lined up on to the transmission and tilting the motor over at the same time proved to be harder than we anticipated. In the end we go it done together. I used some long bolts to help draw the engine the last inch to the transmission. If I ever do this again, I will just pull the transmission with the engine like I have done in the past with other cars and re-install in reverse fashion.

That valve and the dense PO that kept adding coolant without considering where it was going caused the hole on mine.