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Not racing related, but Newman and Redford, back together again… RIP Bob.

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

I defend myself against unwarranted attacks - texasz came on here on the 26th and by the 29th all had been sorted however during that time you and another attempted to dissuade my client from buying from me ! Yes, I'm not the strongest at IT - each to their own, can you make exhausts ?....... and it was my IT guy that mumbled something about windows and logons - what do I know.... As for my customer base - texasz wasn't yet a customer so how would he be in my customer base. It's sorted for texasz so let's move on, please - have a great day.

ITS ALIVE. i decided to take off every electrical connection off and deep clean each pin. they didnt have bad corrosion but the copper had turned green where it wasnt connected for the last 20 years. I double checked each pin ohms coming through the ECU and finally got each reading within spec. Started it up and boom perfect idle. I appreciate all you're guys help. the resources and information helped a ton. now to bleed the clutch, find out why the break pedel is stuck and see if this thing can move!

Can't imagine buying something from Dezart. He attacks people that offend him, doesn't keep track of his customer base, and apparently has trouble with simple internet processes. What do the words below even mean?

@cgsheen1 made a suggestion, Are you not willing to try it? Takes 2 minutes.

Easy test, take the ballast RESISTOR out of the equation: Take the G/W wire OFF the ballast, hook it up to the B/W that's connected to the other end of the ballast. Run the engine. Is it better? Is it worse? Don't notice a change at all? (Better: leave the ballast out - figure a good way to connect the G/W and B/W permanently cuz VOLTAGE. Worse: hook it back up the way it was. No diff: Hook it back up the way it was - if you're sure there was no change.) (I haven't said yet what I'd really recommend which is: replace all your harness wiring, especially the engine bay harness which suffers the most degradation over 50+ years of living on this Earth... Few people listen - even me - I'm just barely doing that in my own car (and it turned 50 last year).)

O.P., you should probably pull a spark plug or six and see if (how much) they are sooted up. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on an EFI engine is "vacuum referenced" or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) referenced. Meaning it has a hose connection to the intake manifold. The FPR is supposed to maintain a fairly constant fuel pressure differential with the manifold pressure. Nissan uses 2.5 BAR or 36.3 PSI as the required differential. That means WITH the engine NOT RUNNING and fuel pump RUNNING the pressure to the fuel rail and injectors should ~36.3 PSI. When the engine IS running, the FPR will SUBTRACT the manifold pressure while under VACUUM or ADD the manifold pressure if under boost (positive manifold pressure). You don't need to consider boost. But, say you have 10 PSI of VACUUM while the engine is running at idle, your pressure at the fuel rail and injectors should be ~26.3 PSI (36.3 - 10 PSI). First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. The Electronic Ignition Module figures out when to send a signal for the coil to fire - it gets the information from the distributor electronics (pretty sure - I haven't handled the original Bosch L-Jetronic for a blue moon...) Second: Have you tried operating the engine WITHOUT the cold start valve? Disconnected from wiring and/or fuel? (IS your engine only running on the cold start fuel??)