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Hardway

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Hardway last won the day on November 29 2017

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About Hardway

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    Austin TX

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    Cars, movies, music, and history.
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    Project Manager

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z
  • About My Cars
    1/72 240z - 2.9L, 5spd ZXT trans, triple Dellorto Carbs, red w/black interior.

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  1. Hardway

    T5 rear output shaft seal picture

    You're welcome Dave. Mine has been dry since installed it. I used really big socket to tap mine in. Most press kits do not allow enough depth for the output shaft.
  2. Hardway

    T5 rear output shaft seal picture

    I bought mine on eBay for $23.90 plus S&H, however there are none on eBay right now. A quick Google search reveals RockAuto has 3 for $13.80/ea plus shipping and Amazon has them for around $30 shipped.
  3. Hardway

    240z Door Hinge Rebuild

    The set on Amazon -> https://www.amazon.com/DATSUN-1969-1978-Hinge-Brass-Bushing/dp/B071KQD7MC is the most original kit available and provides a "correct" end product. Additionally, it is well made as it is the same kit I used. As long as you take your time disassembling your hinges and re-assembling, you should be very happy with the kit on Amazon. $55 shipped per door is not bad considering you should never have to rebuild them again. There are other cheaper alternatives as previously mentioned that probably work but I will only speak to the set I installed that is the focus of this thread.
  4. Hardway

    240z Door Hinge Rebuild

    You are going to have to locate a Series-1 door spring or something very close to it. You will want to look around on eBay, CL, Datsun Classifieds, etc for someone selling a lower hinge, driver or passenger side and rob it for the spring. What makes the Series-1 spring odd is that the coils are thin versus every other door hinge spring I have seen. If someone had one apart and could give you the dimensions you might be able to find something via a hardware vendor like McMaster-Carr, Grainger, Fastenal, and the like.
  5. Hardway

    240z Series-1 Hatch Duct Clips - $50/set

    Just wanted to let everyone know the final set of clips sold earlier today. I would like to thank everyone who purchased a set and all of those who contributed to help make this happen. Seeing that a few vendors purchased sets it is possible they may become available again from other sources. This last run was my final run of them and will not be having anymore made. I wish everyone the best with their projects!
  6. Thank you! The V8 in it has a large footprint so its hard to tell if a V12 similar to what was found in a S600 would fit. Given the complexities of a V12 I want no part of one. The M117 series V8 that is in my 560SEC is complicated only by its mechanical fuel injection system. Everything else is pretty straight forward and the more I learn, the more respect I have for the car and the engineering that went in to it. Parts are not outrageous as one would think and most jobs can be accomplished with a well stocked tool box. Plus, these cars have a massive following and tons of support from vendors and the community of owners.
  7. Absolutely! I plan to document everything with pictures as it is a "flip" car for me. However, to be honest, I love seeing it in my shop every time I walk out to it.
  8. I don't think the 560's V8 is the engine the Datsun L motors were based on. I believe it was an older motor design. The engine in my 560 SEC is an all aluminum 5.55L SOHC V8. I have only driven the Benz 62 miles as that was the drive home when I bought it. I knew it needed a timing chain as I could hear it "whirring" at idle so it has been driven some what delicately. I have been gathering parts from various vendors and plan to get most of it done this weekend, barring any surprises or disasters. Organization, planning, and cleanliness is key on these engines.
  9. I did not see if the tensioner was still in place when I had the valve cover off and should have also checked the timing marks with the engine at TDC. Oh well. The car runs and I can move it in and out of the garage. I really want to get the chain replaced before I do anything else but I will make note of everything before pulling things apart. The Z will have to wait as I will be doing a timing chain replacement this weekend on my other project, a 1988 Mercedes Benz 560 SEC.
  10. I will admit, I suffer from a bad case of "while I am at it" so I apologize for jumping from spark plug and compression testing to a possible engine tear down. First things first is the timing chain. After thinking about it some more I will probably just replace it with the engine in the car. From there I can look at advancing the ignition timing. With the timing chain replaced, would I still look at moving the chain to one of the other position to alter the cam timing?
  11. I don't think moving the chain over is something I feel comfortable with. Given that the chain has so much slack, as shown in the video in my build thread, I don't feel more power is worth chasing until the primary components of the engine are right. When I pull the engine to do the chain replacement I am going to pull the head at the same time to look at the block and pistons. At that point I may drop the head off with my machine guy and have him install a stage-2 or stage-3 cam and install a ceramic coated header as well. That way I can really take advantage of the triples on the car. Build thread -> http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58524-hardways-red-rocket-1972-240z-build-thread/
  12. I had some time to mess with the car today. Before I did anything I replaced the leaky valve cover gasket and cleaned up the spark plug side of the head. That alone took an hour+ since the current gasket had been glued to the valve cover with a generous amount of adhesive. Once cleaned I installed the NGK BR6ES-11 #7131 spark plugs, gapped at .033 and hooked everything back up. Using an external tachometer and timing gun I had 12 degrees adv. at idle which was 1,000 RPM. I could not get the car to idle smoothly below that so I ran with it. I observed the advance maxing out at 32 degrees at 3,000 RPM. I did not make any adjustments to the distributor. A quick test drive did not yield any change in driving impressions. With the valve cover off I noticed some dual parallel scoring from the timing chain on the inside. During a previous valve adjustment I noticed quite a bit of slack on the driving side of the timing chain so the scoring on the valve cover confirms its not right. At this point, for many reasons I am parking the car and will not drive it until I fix the timing chain. I fear it could slip or break causing severe damage to the engine. On that note I am thinking of pulling the engine so I can re-seal it, clean it, and paint it. At the same time I can decide what I would like to do about painting the engine bay as it is currently three different colors, black, red, and silver. I appreciate all of the help and feedback regarding this issue and will keep you posted on my progress. Thank you everyone!
  13. Thank you for all the feedback guys. I am going to go pick up a set of spark plugs over my lunch hour and install this evening so I can determine where my timing is. Regarding the plug selection, should I go with set of NGK B6ES-11 or BR6ES-11 spark plugs. Do I need resistor plugs or not? The coil is a MSD Blaster 2 so I believe it should handle the higher gap. However, running the plugs with a more conservative gap might be a good place to start. I will see what the plugs recommended gap is and start there. I will have more to add to this story later today. Stay tuned!
  14. I knew I would get some good questions and feedback! Yes, the threads are oily as the valve cover gasket is weak. The whole passenger side of the engine is grimy. A new gasket is going on as well as cleaning up the engine some. I don't know about oil burn as I have not driven the car enough to tell. The oil level has not changed since I did it in September and that has been with a few 40 mile round trips to cars and coffee at 80mph and there is no smoke of any kind based on my personal experience and those that have driven behind me. Interesting observation on the head Zed. If I were to replace it, what would you suggest? Possibly a '75 - '76 N42? On the exhaust side, I know the manifold is not ideal but my series-1 car has an all stock exhaust and felt like it had more grunt. This car just has a Dynomax muffler fed via 2.5" exhaust with no resonator. So the gap may be too much for the Uni-Lite? Does this mean I should run spark plugs designed for a smaller gap?
  15. I have been gathering some baseline info in an effort to find out why my 240z feels to be lacking power. It runs good, idles smooth, but just does not have any "plant you in the seat power" in any gear. Below are the specs along with some pictures of the spark plugs I pulled. I have not checked the timing and I know how important it is, just didn't want to put the used plugs back in to do so as I plan to install some new ones. L28 N42 Block #184718 Was told it was bored out to 2.9L but have no way to validate this. 1973 E88 head with stock cam in good shape and properly adjusted valve train. Triple Dellorto DHLA40 carbs, rebuilt, and appear to running a bit rich based on the plugs Mallory Uni-Lite distributor with electronic breakerless conversion, MSD Blaster 2 coil, Taylor Sprial-Pro wires, AutoLite #64 spark plugs below gapped around .044 Stock cast iron manifold Compression: #1 150, #2 151, #3 150, #4 151, #5 151, #6 150 I think this looks really good! Based on my setup I believe I should get a set of NGK B6ES-11 or BR6ES-11 spark plugs. Do I need resistor plugs or not? The transmission is a 280zx Turbo 5-speed unit in great shape. Diff is a 3.54 with a Precision LSD. Am I losing power due to my gearing? Once I get new spark plugs installed I will check my timing and post my numbers. Any feedback or ideas is greatly appreciated.
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