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Hardway last won the day on July 29 2018

Hardway had the most liked content!

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About Hardway

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    Registered User

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    Austin TX
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1/72 240z - 2.9L, 5spd ZXT trans, triple Dellorto Carbs, red w/black interior.

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  1. I will add my experience to conversation so others are aware. Back in March I sold my 1988 Mercedes Benz 560SEC on BAT. I had already taken a lot of pictures and made videos based on my review other successful auctions. When I submitted my info I asked for a reserve of $10K and they accepted it from the beginning. I think it only took them a day or two to assign an auction team member to me. We did two rounds of reviews for the text and they accommodated my go-live date since I suddenly had to go out of town and wanted to be available to answer questions during the auction. The reserve was met and the buyer turned out to be a fellow MB owner and was familiar with the W126 cars. He chose to pay via a bank wire transfer and had the car picked up by a transporter a few days later. Once he paid I over-nighted the title to him. It went to Jamestown NY and I have not heard anything from the seller so I assume he is happy. Overall I had a good experience with BAT and would recommend it as long as you know what you need to do as a seller and to properly set your expectations. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-mercedes-benz-560sec-12/ The big thing you have to keep in mind is, BAT is in the business to SELL vehicles and related parts. They know their buyer demographic, what sells, what doesn't, and what people click on. They want to create the highest probability a car or part will sell so that is why they come back with low reserves or no reserves. My brother went through this with his supercharged Acura coupe. They did not want any type of reserve and will not speak to him on setting one.
  2. In an effort to make the interior a little nicer, I ordered a real leather shift boot and parking brake boot off of Ebay. For $35 I was happy enough. Its meant for a stock shift setup but with the 280ZXT T5 transmission and Hurst Mustang 5.0 shifter, the shifter sits forward of its original location so the leather boot demonstrates the compromise. One day I will have a custom one made that looks more correct but for now, its much nicer to look at and still smells good!
  3. Been pretty busy since my last post. I started driving the car more to help dial in the steering. Luckily I am able to park the car on the center cover of my lift to make adjustments quickly with the weight of the car on the wheels. As I drove the car it seemed to idle higher and higher and that is when I discovered the I had some air leaks at seals between the carbs and the intake. In an effort to remedy this I had gotten the carbs out of sync so it was time to start fresh. I got carbs tightened down and all the air leaks stopped. As I set out to start re-syncing the carbs the car would not stay running once the engine started. I verified this as I was getting a full 12V at the key start position but nothing at the run position. I spent the better part of a weekend tracking down the issue which turned out to be the 12V wire going from the resistor to the coil. Simply moving the wire around seemed to fix the issue but I am sure I was knocking some corrosion loose. I have not doubt the issue will return in the future but for now it was running again. Back to my original plan of syncing the carbs which was very straight forward. Now the car consistently idles at 900rpm, set to 9 degrees BTDC, and runs much better overall. In the video below I still have an occasional pop on cylinder #4 which was remedied with a half turn of the mixture screw.
  4. @ZCarFever The clips are now available for $30/set from Zeddsaver. He bought one of my sets and I am glad to see he is producing them and able to offer a better price. I recommend you check him out and purchase a set from him. https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/miscellaneous-parts/products/datsun-240z-series-1-hatch-vent-clips-1
  5. Been working this morning to get my carbs tuned. The engine is a 2.9L with a Isky stage-2 cam, Dellorto DHLA40 carbs, Mallory Uni-Lite electronic distributor, using an adjustable timing light and external tach to tune. Fuel press. set at 2.9 PSI. Base timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, any lower and the car idles rough. Idle is set to 1k RPM. Would like to get it down to 800 RPM if possible. Car seems to run very strong in the higher RPM range. Symptoms - while at idle the middle and rear carb will occasionally cough/pop. This happens more on the front throat of the rear carb. While driving, I can feel the transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit, like the car suddenly gains extra power. What I have done - from what I understand the transition from the idle to main circuit should be smooth and not jumpy. Since I was experiencing the carb cough I figured I needed to move my idle jets up so I went from 70 to 75. This seems to have smoothed the transition from idle to main and so far no carb coughing. However, it is now running very rich and is certainly noticeable. I have tried to lean the fuel mixture using the mixture screws but this makes the idle rough. Questions - At this point I am thinking I going back to the 70 idle jets and see if I can richen up just the two carb throats that were lean. If this does not work, is it a bad idea to run high idle jets in just these two throats? Just how smooth should the transition be from the idle circuit to the main circuit? I could certainly live with the way it was with no complaints. Once I make the changes above I will record the spark plug number I am using along with some pictures of the plugs after some high RPM runs.
  6. Thank you Philip! The car could definitely use a cut and buff. One day I will focus more on the cosmetics but for now, I just want to get the mechanical systems up to scratch.
  7. After the final align & drive session I made a quick video to show the progress and current state of the car. Still need to do some carb tuning as I am getting some inconsistent spitting and popping but it does run and if you lay down the accelerator in second, it absolutely screams. I plan to work on the carbs throughout the week as time allows. The next big project is raising the rear a little using some 280z strut insulators, install the RT mount I have, and change the gear oil in the diff. Stay tuned!
  8. On my drive out to the exhaust shop and back I noticed the car was not tracking straight. This is due to the rack being moved when I was installing the new rack bushings. The car needed its rack boots replaced and I already new ones along with new outer tie rods waiting for me in the parts bin. I used Empi 88-1509K boots and Moog ES2109R and ES2110R outer tie rods just like I have used in the past with the same success. I also installed a pair of MSA aluminum bump steer/kick back spacers since I already had them. Took about a full 1.5 days worth of work but I spread it out over two weekend as I painted the outer tie rods with satin black Rustoleum to keep them looking decent. The locking nuts that come with the new outer tie rods are thicker than the originals. Based upon the measurements I took during tear down, the passenger side tie rods needed to be as close to the rack as possible and thus I needed to use a thinner nut. In the end, I could have used the new ones after adjusting everything but wanted to point this out. Using the center cover of my lift as a ramp I was able to quickly do several rounds of adjust & drive to get the alignment really close. I will be buying new tires in the future and will wait to drop $80 on an alignment. The list gets a little shorter!
  9. Last weekend I ran the car up to Taylor Muffler to the get header collector welded to the existing pipe. Its a small Mom-n-Pop shop but they do good work for all budgets. After about 15 minutes and a $20 bill later I was headed back home. In 5th gear while cruising the drone is pretty bad so I will probably be back to get a resonator installed at some point. With the car running and driving again this officially wraps up the timing chain project I started on July 22nd 2018. Like all of our cars, as soon as you finish one project, another is waiting for you.
  10. Despite the door drama you are making great progress @wheee! I know how deflating it can be finding that kind work from previous owners but its what we sign up for and get from time to time. Glad to see you are pressing on and hopefully the replacement doors work out for you. Keep up the good work!
  11. Great photos and a beautiful Z @Mike I am looking at VTO wheels for the future.
  12. Thank you for sharing all of this @26th-Z and kudos to you for making the car your own. I know some would run moan and groan about not making it 100% stock when you have everything to do so. However, no matter how rare or low the VIN, these cars were meant to be driven and enjoyed. Everything you are doing will make it a fun car to drive. Plus, if you ever wanted to return it to 100% stock, you could. Keep up the great work!
  13. Thank you Bob. Stick with it, you will get it done. If it were easy, everyone would do it. I believe key is being organized and planning ahead. If you can have all the parts you need on hand before you start, makes things go a lot faster.
  14. Knowing I needed to do something about the super loud exhaust, I set about a temporary solution to connect the new header to the existing exhaust pipe. This is so I could finish filling it with coolant, purge any air, and be in a position to drive it to the exhaust shop for something more permanent. I bought some 2.5 inch flexible exhaust tubing at the parts store and trimmed it to fit the oval shaped opening and around the O2 bung. Once I was close I closed the hole with some HVAC metal tape. Not leak proof by any means but sure quietened things down some. My wife helped me put the hood back on and I got the cooling system filled. With so much accomplished I decided a quick jaunt down the street was in order. The clutch action felt really good, brakes worked, the engine ran and rev'd great through the first three gears. I was honestly shocked as I expected coughing and sputtering from the carbs until they were tuned. After almost a year, it is back! All in all, I am super happy to have it back together and running again. I hope to get it to the exhaust shop next weekend or earlier and start tuning the carbs some. Stay tuned!
  15. My new o-rings from McMaster-Carr arrived. These were to replace the flattened o-rings in the soft mount holders. I glued them in with a little shoe goo and laid a board with a book on top to provide even pressure over night. The next day was carb install day. Getting the carbs on with the heat shield is a bit challenging as it adds another item you have to contend with in an already tight space. Some patience and care not to drop anything saw it come together in the end. I left the linkages loose for now as I know syncing and tuning would be in my near future. With a cursory system and fuel pressure check complete and a fire extinguisher at the ready, I put my wife in the driver seat and had her turn the key while I worked the carbs and choke. After about 7 spins of the engine I could tell there was nothing happening. A second inspection revealed a coil ground wire I had removed and forgot to re-connect. Once connected my wife turned the key again and I don't think the engine turned a full rotation before IT FIRED UP! It scared my wife as the open header exits right under the driver seat. (sorry sweetie) I dis-engaged the choke and was shocked to see the engine settle in to an idle at 1k RPM. With the open header, it sounded awesome! I had to rev it a little bit just to hear it. WOW! With the stage-2 cam, new timing chain, and lightened flywheel, it revs super quick. It really sounds like a race car. Unfortunately it cannot stay that way.
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