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Hardway last won the day on December 3 2019

Hardway had the most liked content!

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About Hardway

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Austin TX
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1/72 240z - 2.9L, 5spd ZXT trans, triple Dellorto Carbs, red w/black interior.

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  1. As someone that has owned three 240z's and two 280z's, always go with the car with the least amount of rust. Mechanical and interior components are swappable all day long. The white car may not be as pretty as the red on the surface but it is by far a better foundation for a build. I would strip the white car to a point it can be painted the color you want, get it painted, then install the best of everything from both cars.
  2. Glad to see they are back. I actually didn't do anything. PB had a message on their front page about it but had not thought about it tonight. If it happens again I will re-create the post as I have all of the pictures backed up.
  3. Photobucket is experiencing an outage. Yes, I could copy the text and re-create the post with the pictures attached to the forums. May work on it tonight if MNF is uneventful.
  4. I will double check my Photobucket account. The pictures should be working as I just paid my annual subscription earlier this month. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
  5. For those of you that follow the Datsun Cars and Trucks For Sale FB page probably saw the car for sale. It was purchased by its new owner yesterday evening and who took it home to Houston. I enjoyed owning the car, refreshing its various components, and learning more along the way. The car is still a blank canvas for the new owner that can be driven as is or taken in any number of directions. My wife and I have some big financial goals we want to achieve in 2020 and the sale of the Z will ensure that happens. I will still check in from time to time to see what everyone is working on. I thank e
  6. When I removed the rear interior panels for the hatch seal replacement I also had to remove the dome light and trim piece. The dome light has never worked in the car so I wanted to figure out why. A few depressions on the lens told me the switch was not popping back up as it should. After carefully removing the trim piece and lens this was easily confirmed. SMK is still in business and they make of all things, keyboard letter switches. Makes sense but in all my research I could not find this switch or anything close to it by SMK. I would love to know who makes the switch for the NOS unit
  7. With the new hatch seal in place I decided to tackle the other common cause for exhaust fumes entering the cabin, the tail light gaskets. I had done this before on my series-1 car so I knew what I was in for. I went with a set of Precision gaskets for $50 shipped from a DPAN member. If this was going to be a fully restore car at some point in the new future I would have gone with OEM Nissan seals but they are currently $120. The project was straight forward and as expected the Precision seals are not perfect as some of the grooves do not line up. I would say they are about a 90% fit.
  8. As I have been driving the car more in effort to tune the carbs, the exhaust smell was becoming too much so I decided to start with the hatch seal. The seal on the car was well past its prime. Before starting to remove the old seal I removed the rear interior panels and quickly discovered the highly probable cause for the occasional raw gas smell I would get, a broken plastic vent hose coupler. A quick search on Amazon got me a new brass piece to my door in a couple days and was quickly installed. With the old seal removed along with all the residue I cou
  9. Good afternoon fellow Z owners! Working through an issue on my '72 240z that seems to be somewhat common but with no common solution. Engine does not run smooth, shakes at idle, ignition timing set to 9 degrees BTDC at 900rpm. When accelerating under load it pops and backfires but not all the time. Fuel system is set to 3psi and per the gauge runs this all the time. I am running a Mallory 2363901 distributor with the UniLite electronic ignition module. Tach works in car. Baseline: Key set to Run, Battery = 12.14V. Using an Accel Super Stock coil 8140C. Mfg spec is 1.4 ohms Primary a
  10. I took the Z for a test drive and I am really happy with the results. The car still handles well but now it actually has rear suspension travel so it rides nicer but is still on the firm side. Visually, I think it looks 100x better. The sunken rear suspension just let the car down and now it looks like the wheels fit the car and have some room to breathe. Below are some before and after pictures. What do you guys think?
  11. With the struts wrapped up the rear brake hoses looked suspect and since the system was already open now was the time to replace them. A pair of Dorman H96862 hoses were ordered on Amazon for $8.32/each and arrived in 2 days. Installation was straight forward but I did have to heat up the ends of the old hoses to break the unions loose. The diff, half-shafts, and everything else was re-installed. A few rounds of brake bleeding commenced and with a firm pedal achieved the rear wheels went back on and the car lowered back on to the ground. The initial impression of the rear spring change was
  12. Next up was the struts. With the half-shafts removed and brake hose disconnected it was just a matter of dropping it down and swinging it out. No surprise, the strut cartridge was shot. When it came time to remove it, no surprise that it was stuck in place. No surprise = No problem. I needed to make a handle of some sort to pull it out. Using a piece of scrap angled steel I drilled a hole in the middle, bolted it to the the strut and with a few hits of the mini sledge on the bottom it happily saw things my way. I had some Tokico struts and springs for a 280z that a fellow Z owner trad
  13. While the paint was drying I set about installing the RT mount. With the diff out of the way it was the easiest project so far. This is my 3rd time installing one of these so I was going to use the same "sandwich" recipe as before. Cutting one layer of the snubber mount off and retaining the original lower mount. You do have to use some longer bolts to get the lower mounting bracket started but the factory bolts can be used once you have it drawn up and into place.
  14. With everything checked out I spent some time cleaning everything up and painting it. A fresh cover gasket was installed with a light smear of black RTV. I used Red Line fluid that is designed for use in LSD differentials. Been using Red Line for years with nothing but great results.
  15. A few weekends ago I got back on the Z as I wanted to address some items before the ideal Fall driving season arrived. It is unknown when the diff fluid had been changed so I wanted to change it. However, due to the placement of the ST sway bar bracket it would require dropping the diff to do so. This actually worked in my favor as I wanted to replace the strap type upper diff mount with an RT mount I had on the shelf and see what could be done about the sagging rear suspension. First things first, getting the diff out. After about an hour or so of wrench turning and some assistance from
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