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Hardway

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Hardway last won the day on July 29 2018

Hardway had the most liked content!

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About Hardway

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Austin TX
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1/72 240z - 2.9L, 5spd ZXT trans, triple Dellorto Carbs, red w/black interior.

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  1. Thank you @240Z240Z240Z I have seen both of these and unfortunately I cannot use either solution since the cast threaded hole at the end is the throttle arm stop adjustment. The smaller shields do not have provisions for the accelerator pump linkage on the bottom. The heat shield I plan to make would only cover the carbs and partially cover the filters. Just trying to see how everyone else mounted their heat shields so I can get some ideas.
  2. Thank you everyone for your feedback. I think I will start by grinding the header flange ever so slightly, just enough to keep it from touching the other components. I don't think rust should be a huge concern but I will try to keep the area I grind down as small as possible so I protect it without compromising too much of the coating. I plan to give it a go one night this week.
  3. @PatconPreventing rust was my concern as well. I believe my only option would be some silver high temp. paint sprayed over the spots that exposed the bare metal.
  4. Started mocking up my DIY heat shield using a cereal box as a starting point. I want to ensure there is enough room for the linkage on the bottom to fully operate. To do this, I believe I need to mount the heat shield using in between the intake manifold and the rear of the carb. However, this presents some challenges as I am using a soft mount kit for the carbs. If I try to mount it to the front face of the carb I will have to cut some pretty big V notches to clear everything. For those that have done this, how did you do it? The manifold is a Interpart piece and the carbs are Dellortos. Thank you!
  5. I recently purchased a MSA coated square port header for the 2.9L E88 that goes in my '72 240z. I have the engine on the stand and figured I would mock everything up before dropping it back in the car. The fitment between the header flange and my Interpart triple carb manifold is very tight as the #1 and #6 exhaust port flange is touching/pressed against the intake manifold. The lower thermostat housing is also touching the flange. Before I grind some of the flange material away on the header I wanted to ask, have any of you run in to this before? If so, did you grind the header flange or the intake manifold? I don't want to grind the any material off the lower thermostat housing as I believe it needs all the material it can get. I welcome thoughts and opinions. Thank you!
  6. Sorry you missed it but probably for the best. This same car was posted on the various S30 Facebook pages so I am sure someone saw it there and scooped it up. Keep hunting, the right one will come along.
  7. Looking at the "before" pictures again, this project epitomizes the phrase "The Greater the Struggle, The Sweeter the Victory" So glad to see it reach this point! Keep up the great work.
  8. Every time I step out in to my shop I am greeted by the empty engine bay of the Z. Its somewhat sad to look at it I am not in a position to strip it down or tear the entire front suspension apart and detail it but I did want to swap out the steering rack bushings as access would never be better. I bought the Energy Suspension bushing set and went about swapping them out. The old ones were shot as they felt like sponges. Another straightforward project done! As I get a nice weekend day I try to clean and paint what I can. The engine plate was certainly ready for some attention and it got it. A deep cleaning followed by some wire wheeling to knock off the corrosion and then some silver Rustoleum paint. The other side was in much better shape but received the same treatment. I sold my 1988 Mercedes Benz 560SEC a few weeks ago on BAT. With the sale and a very tiny profit I ordered a coated header from MSA. Of course being my luck it was on back order but it has now shipped. With its arrival later this week it should kick this project in to high gear.
  9. Wow! My last update was November of last year. Believe it or not, I have been working on the Z, just very slowly and as time has allowed. I crossed off an easy project by installing the oil tube block off plates I bought from MSA. Nice materials and quality. I used a little gasket maker to go around the edges of the oil holes. When I got the balancer back from Dale Manufacturing I knew I needed to repair the snout of the balancer as the seal had carved a groove in it. I ordered a SKF Speedi-Sleeve kit off Amazon for $30. Part # 99189. It went on easy-peasy using my 20 ton HF press. Next up was the oil pan. I used the Competition gasket sold by MSA. A brand new Fel-Pro gasket just seemed too thin and the MSA gasket is easily 30-40% thicker. The pan went on as planned and all fasteners torqued to spec, 7ft pounds. The silver support rails provide a nice contrast to all the blue even if they are not correct. With the balancer installed the engine takes a few more steps to completion.
  10. @Craig24 I got your message and wrote you back. Feel free to reach out any time!
  11. Its been a crazy week at work and I am just now seeing this thread. Wow! What a nice Z and WOW, what a great price! As other's have already said, barring any major issues you flat out stole it. Shocking the seller did not have a reserve on it as classic Z car prices have really been on the rise for the last 5+ years. I concur with everyone else, drive it, maintain it, and enjoy it. Its appreciating all by itself so you owe it to yourself to get some real seat time in it. If you like Miatas, you will love the Z. I referenced Zedy in your other thread looking or a mechanic. He is a great guy with a sweet silver 240z himself and a Datsun Roadster. We all look forward to your updates and driving impressions.
  12. @Zedyone_kenobi Would you be able to look at a Z that a fellow owner just purchased near you?
  13. Awesome! Can't wait to hear all about it.
  14. A few years ago I modified a socket to make this job easier. This keeps the jaws of the pipe wrench or pliers from chewing up the gland nut. I have used it several times and it has never failed me. For an extremely stuck gland nut, get as much 50/50 ATF Acetone mix in to the threads as possible, let it sit, heat it up, then try unscrewing it. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57215-diy-gland-nut-socket-with-pics/
  15. To check for oil pressure, pull the power wire going to the coil and the power or ground wire to the fuel pump if it is electric. If it is a mechanical fuel pump, you can leave it connected or remove the feed hose to it and plug it. Take the valve cover off and ensure the oil pressure sensor it connected on the passenger side of the engine. With the battery hooked up, turn the key to turn the engine over and let it spin over several revolutions. You should see the oil pressure gauge needle lift off and start to rise. Once you see this the oiling system is pressurized which is what you want. If you can, have a second set of eyes watch the cam turning while you are turning the engine over to ensure oil is covering the cam as it spins. If no one is there to help you should see it coated with oil once it has spun over. What lash did you set your intake and exhaust valves at? Carbs might be gummed up but if the car ran before you did all this work, they are probably okay enough to let it start. I would have the distributor set at 0 and advance a little while you are trying to start it. There are other things to check regarding the distributor and timing itself that has been mentioned above. When you installed the distributor, did you ensure the engine was on the combustion stroke on #1?
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