Jump to content

Hardway

Members
  • Content Count

    1,311
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Hardway last won the day on July 29 2018

Hardway had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

247 Excellent

5 Followers

About Hardway

  • Rank
    Registered User

Social Sites

Contact

  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Austin TX
  • Occupation
    Project Manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1/72 240z - 2.9L, 5spd ZXT trans, triple Dellorto Carbs, red w/black interior.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Been working this morning to get my carbs tuned. The engine is a 2.9L with a Isky stage-2 cam, Dellorto DHLA40 carbs, Mallory Uni-Lite electronic distributor, using an adjustable timing light and external tach to tune. Fuel press. set at 2.9 PSI. Base timing set at 10 degrees BTDC, any lower and the car idles rough. Idle is set to 1k RPM. Would like to get it down to 800 RPM if possible. Car seems to run very strong in the higher RPM range. Symptoms - while at idle the middle and rear carb will occasionally cough/pop. This happens more on the front throat of the rear carb. While driving, I can feel the transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit, like the car suddenly gains extra power. What I have done - from what I understand the transition from the idle to main circuit should be smooth and not jumpy. Since I was experiencing the carb cough I figured I needed to move my idle jets up so I went from 70 to 75. This seems to have smoothed the transition from idle to main and so far no carb coughing. However, it is now running very rich and is certainly noticeable. I have tried to lean the fuel mixture using the mixture screws but this makes the idle rough. Questions - At this point I am thinking I going back to the 70 idle jets and see if I can richen up just the two carb throats that were lean. If this does not work, is it a bad idea to run high idle jets in just these two throats? Just how smooth should the transition be from the idle circuit to the main circuit? I could certainly live with the way it was with no complaints. Once I make the changes above I will record the spark plug number I am using along with some pictures of the plugs after some high RPM runs.
  2. Thank you Philip! The car could definitely use a cut and buff. One day I will focus more on the cosmetics but for now, I just want to get the mechanical systems up to scratch.
  3. After the final align & drive session I made a quick video to show the progress and current state of the car. Still need to do some carb tuning as I am getting some inconsistent spitting and popping but it does run and if you lay down the accelerator in second, it absolutely screams. I plan to work on the carbs throughout the week as time allows. The next big project is raising the rear a little using some 280z strut insulators, install the RT mount I have, and change the gear oil in the diff. Stay tuned!
  4. On my drive out to the exhaust shop and back I noticed the car was not tracking straight. This is due to the rack being moved when I was installing the new rack bushings. The car needed its rack boots replaced and I already new ones along with new outer tie rods waiting for me in the parts bin. I used Empi 88-1509K boots and Moog ES2109R and ES2110R outer tie rods just like I have used in the past with the same success. I also installed a pair of MSA aluminum bump steer/kick back spacers since I already had them. Took about a full 1.5 days worth of work but I spread it out over two weekend as I painted the outer tie rods with satin black Rustoleum to keep them looking decent. The locking nuts that come with the new outer tie rods are thicker than the originals. Based upon the measurements I took during tear down, the passenger side tie rods needed to be as close to the rack as possible and thus I needed to use a thinner nut. In the end, I could have used the new ones after adjusting everything but wanted to point this out. Using the center cover of my lift as a ramp I was able to quickly do several rounds of adjust & drive to get the alignment really close. I will be buying new tires in the future and will wait to drop $80 on an alignment. The list gets a little shorter!
  5. Last weekend I ran the car up to Taylor Muffler to the get header collector welded to the existing pipe. Its a small Mom-n-Pop shop but they do good work for all budgets. After about 15 minutes and a $20 bill later I was headed back home. In 5th gear while cruising the drone is pretty bad so I will probably be back to get a resonator installed at some point. With the car running and driving again this officially wraps up the timing chain project I started on July 22nd 2018. Like all of our cars, as soon as you finish one project, another is waiting for you.
  6. Despite the door drama you are making great progress @wheee! I know how deflating it can be finding that kind work from previous owners but its what we sign up for and get from time to time. Glad to see you are pressing on and hopefully the replacement doors work out for you. Keep up the good work!
  7. Great photos and a beautiful Z @Mike I am looking at VTO wheels for the future.
  8. Thank you for sharing all of this @26th-Z and kudos to you for making the car your own. I know some would run moan and groan about not making it 100% stock when you have everything to do so. However, no matter how rare or low the VIN, these cars were meant to be driven and enjoyed. Everything you are doing will make it a fun car to drive. Plus, if you ever wanted to return it to 100% stock, you could. Keep up the great work!
  9. Thank you Bob. Stick with it, you will get it done. If it were easy, everyone would do it. I believe key is being organized and planning ahead. If you can have all the parts you need on hand before you start, makes things go a lot faster.
  10. Knowing I needed to do something about the super loud exhaust, I set about a temporary solution to connect the new header to the existing exhaust pipe. This is so I could finish filling it with coolant, purge any air, and be in a position to drive it to the exhaust shop for something more permanent. I bought some 2.5 inch flexible exhaust tubing at the parts store and trimmed it to fit the oval shaped opening and around the O2 bung. Once I was close I closed the hole with some HVAC metal tape. Not leak proof by any means but sure quietened things down some. My wife helped me put the hood back on and I got the cooling system filled. With so much accomplished I decided a quick jaunt down the street was in order. The clutch action felt really good, brakes worked, the engine ran and rev'd great through the first three gears. I was honestly shocked as I expected coughing and sputtering from the carbs until they were tuned. After almost a year, it is back! All in all, I am super happy to have it back together and running again. I hope to get it to the exhaust shop next weekend or earlier and start tuning the carbs some. Stay tuned!
  11. My new o-rings from McMaster-Carr arrived. These were to replace the flattened o-rings in the soft mount holders. I glued them in with a little shoe goo and laid a board with a book on top to provide even pressure over night. The next day was carb install day. Getting the carbs on with the heat shield is a bit challenging as it adds another item you have to contend with in an already tight space. Some patience and care not to drop anything saw it come together in the end. I left the linkages loose for now as I know syncing and tuning would be in my near future. With a cursory system and fuel pressure check complete and a fire extinguisher at the ready, I put my wife in the driver seat and had her turn the key while I worked the carbs and choke. After about 7 spins of the engine I could tell there was nothing happening. A second inspection revealed a coil ground wire I had removed and forgot to re-connect. Once connected my wife turned the key again and I don't think the engine turned a full rotation before IT FIRED UP! It scared my wife as the open header exits right under the driver seat. (sorry sweetie) I dis-engaged the choke and was shocked to see the engine settle in to an idle at 1k RPM. With the open header, it sounded awesome! I had to rev it a little bit just to hear it. WOW! With the stage-2 cam, new timing chain, and lightened flywheel, it revs super quick. It really sounds like a race car. Unfortunately it cannot stay that way.
  12. Got a few updates as the finish line gets closer. I ordered a new 160 degree thermostat and Fel-Pro t-stat gasket. The gasket is labeled for a small block Chevy. It was sorta close and after some trimming it was much better. With the upper t-stat housing installed I put on a new Wix filter and filled it up with fresh Valvoline 20w-50 VR1 racing oil. I never made a tool to prime the pump but I did pour some oil in it when I installed it. With no spark plugs the engine turned over pretty easily. I pulled the valve cover and asked my wife to watch the cam and tell me when the oil starts flowing out. After about 10 turns the cam was liberally covered so the valve cover went back on. I spent the rest of the day getting everything buttoned up. As I started to organize the new carb linkage components, I quickly realized an oversight I had made. I should have setup the linkage bar before installing the intake. No biggie, a few minutes pulling the intake and about 20 minutes spent getting the bar straight and the linkage arms on.
  13. I celebrated my 40th birthday over the Memorial Day weekend and my wife asked me what I wanted. My wish list was three things, 1. Lunch at Gloria's 2. Make me a homemade chocolate meringue pie and 3. help me put the engine back in the Z car. Needless to say I have a wonderful wife and I got everything I wanted for my birthday. It took us about an hour and a half to get the engine in. Getting it lined up on to the transmission and tilting the motor over at the same time proved to be harder than we anticipated. In the end we go it done together. I used some long bolts to help draw the engine the last inch to the transmission. If I ever do this again, I will just pull the transmission with the engine like I have done in the past with other cars and re-install in reverse fashion.
  14. The engine was now ready to come off the engine stand. I purchased a lightweight Fidanza flywheel to accompany the Stage-2 cam that was now in the engine. The Centerforce II clutch was in great shape so it was going to be re-used. With the flywheel on the table, I took a few minutes to get it indexed correctly and made some marks with a sharpie. New flywheel and clutch cover bolts were used along with a little blue Loc-tite, torqued to 100ft/lbs and 14ft/lbs respectively. The instructions that came with the flywheel said to remove the green coating and wipe everything clean before installing the clutch. A little brake cleaner and a lint-free rag made short work of it. The clutch went on with no issues. With the engine out I also took a few minutes to install the new oil pump, gasket, and bolts. One step closer!
  15. With the header successfully installed I turned my attention to making a heat shield. Using some pieces of cardboard from a cereal box I did some initial mockups. I know there are several ready to install options that run $100+ but this was going to be a much more affordable DIY solution. I stopped by a local metal supply shop and found a scrap piece of .040 aluminum that measured 20 x 28 inches with some minor damage for $10.85 out the door. I only needed something that was approx. 12 x 24 so I knew I could trim away the damaged sections. Next was to find a way to make a consistent 90 degree bend. I needed a metal brake of some sort so I bought a 6 foot section of angle iron at HD for $18, cut in half to make two 3ft sections, and wrapped them in some painters tape so the rough edge would not damage the aluminum. With the angle iron and sheet of aluminum in my vice, after a few adjustments I went for it and bent the sheet. I may have slightly underestimated how strong .040 aluminum is but I got it done. After drilling some holes and more trimming I got it to where it would slide on and not catch the levers of the accelerator pumps on the bottom of the carbs. Happy with the outcome I laid down some self-adhesive heat reflective material I bought off Amazon for $21.94. I doubled up where the bend was as this was the closest point to the header. Not too bad for a DIY effort and once the carbs and air cleaners are on, you will see very little of it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.