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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. I don't see much wear on the symbols that would indicate heavy usage. I think they were made that way.
  2. If you couldn't suck any air thru the diaphragm, it's likely good and the problem lies in the bound up vacuum (base) plate. If you can get that to rotate freely I think it'll work.
  3. I don't mind replicas as long as they're not misrepresented as OEM parts.
  4. Don't sweat the 2mm clearance. The important thing is there is enough clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers that the bearing doesn't spin with the pressure plate when the clutch is released.
  5. Disconnect the slave cylinder spring and push the clutch release lever until the release bearing makes contact with the pressure plate. Ideally the release lever should move about 1/8" to 1/4" before making contact. If the distance is greater than 1/4", lengthen the rod.
  6. It shouldn't need 4 turns down to run decent. The float levels are the primary mixture adjustments. The nozzle screws are for fine tuning. How sure are you that the float levels are correct?
  7. Have you tried the piston drop test? Lift both pistons all the way up with your fingers (there'll be considerable resistance) Then let them drop at the same time. They should drop at close to the same rate and land with an audible click when they hit bottom. If one is sticky, loosen the dome screws and try again.
  8. Can you feel the vibration anywhere else? Seat, console, or is it isolated to the shifter?
  9. As I recall in a previous discussion and a verifying experiment of my own, the trick to softening and keeping rubber (I don't know if it works on vinyl) soft was wintergreen oil. I soaked a destroyed hard rubber firewall grommet in acetone and wintergreen oil. It softened the grommet and left it soft for months after, at which point I was convinced and trashed it. I also seem to remember the go-karting world using w. oil on tires.
  10. The edge on the headlight cases should be the same as the edge on the hood to look the best.
  11. I've never had a steering wheel vibration that was caused by anything than a problem in the front. I did chase a severe vibration in the body (85 mph +)(not the steering wheel). I installed six u-joints but didn't cure the vibration until I found a small dent in the prop shaft. I believe the clunk and steering wheel vibrations are two separate problems.
  12. Engine Masters devoted one episode to low, and high octane fuel as well as E85 fuel while fooling around with timing and boost. The bottom line was the E85 didn't need the expected timing advance as much as expected and E85 produced slightly more power than high octane at high boost. E85 loves high compression ratios.
  13. I agree with Cliff. Keep it as is and keep adding parts to your 401Z account.
  14. I have many times and I'm sure others have too. I'd suggest buying a couple of sets of new plugs (NGK BP6ES is recommended) and replace the fouled ones. It can make a difference.
  15. Is it in any gear, or in neutral, when you're depressing the clutch and it goes silent? The jolt, I suspect, was a portion of a gear tooth, my first guess would be the input shaft gear. I hope I'm wrong.
  16. Engine Masters is my new favorite show. Cam timing, oil pans, rod length, 1500 hp from a stock block LS, the list goes on.
  17. It looks like rust. Yes, plain plain water will cause that. Odd that it's only in one cylinder. I'd carefully check for a crack in the head.
  18. I hope Mike can prevent this B.S. in the future. If not, I hope there's no limit on how many one can add to the ignore list. Mine is growing daily.
  19. @siteunseen redrilled the float pivot tangs on one of his 3 screw carbs so he could use identical needle valves like the 4 screw carbs.
  20. Kind of a stab in the dark but the Mulholland springs I put on my 240 back in the day were yellow.
  21. My first layer was spray can flat black. No heat used on that layer, just eye protection. I did use a heat gun and chisels on the base coat as well as stripper on the difficult to scrape areas.
  22. I tried a large razor blade too. Then I tried a wide Harbor Freight wood chisel. It worked as well as the razor blade but was much easier on my hand.
  23. Take a look at Plasti Dip. I've not tried it but it seems like a good way to coat the tabs.
  24. Cliff, you're absolutely right about the nozzle hoses. They have to be very flexible. I installed the silicone hoses from Ztherapy. As far as fuel height goes, a while back I became curious about an actual measurement from the carb bridge to the desired fuel level. In the British forums I found that 3/8" was the desired distance (it doesn't have to be exact) including round top Hitachis. Using the fact that one turn of the nozzle screw equals one mm and 3/8" equals 9 5/8 turns, that (or close to it) should be the fuel height according to the Brits.
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