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About Pilgrim

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Gender
  • Map Location
    Fort Collins, CO
  • Occupation
    Retired educator

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    I've had my 1983 280ZX Turbo since 1990. It's my fourth Datsun Z-car.
  1. In the US it is not legal, unless when the vehicle is resold the owner checks the form stating that the mileage shown on the odometer is not accurate. There is no grey area on that issue under federal law. I would consider it ethical if a similar statement was made to the buyer as well. Of course, that would not be a surprise in this case, but it is appropriate and ethical to make it clear.
  2. There were two general types of louver mounting. One used tabs which extended over the side of the window, and mounting them required drilling and screws in the hatch. The other type used metal tabs with a rubber-strip adhesive on the bottom. The tabs slid under the hatch trim. I have that kind, as I didn't want to drill the hatch for anything. I think that if you can photos of the mounts, it will be possible to make your own mounting tabs.
  3. Given the work involved in dealing with the cam, I'd probably leave it in place, take care of the rest of the things you've identified and see how it runs.
  4. Or a used distributor with a functional part....
  5. Let's go back to the first post. It's normal for the pressure to be high while driving and drop to almost zero at idle. Have you checked a service manual for the gauge test procedure? What are the specific readings that you are observing? (To some people the normal oil pressure variation in a Datsun L6 would seem erratic.} NOTE: If your post #4 describes the behavior that has been going on all along, I doubt the problem is the sending unit, I think it's likely a bad wire or bad connection...perhaps a gauge problem.
  6. Thanks very much for helping with more measurements. And I hear you - if you managed to do that with a screwdriver, I bow to you, and to both your mechanical prowess and considerable good luck!! 😎
  7. OK, it downloaded in Chrome. Firefox blocked it. Thanks for the nudge. The only dimension noted is the length. It would help to have a dimension for the top width, the distance to where the block narrows, and the width after it narrows. Not complaining, just trying to make sure our online friends have the info they need.
  8. FYI...I can't open it or save it. Not sure what's going on.
  9. Oh God almightly, BE CAREFUL!!! I did this. There is a drawing in the manual for a wood wedge that is used to block the chain tensioner from moving when you create slack. The drawing is deceptive - that tensioner is much farther down inside the timing gear cover than you think it is. I have been in there, and I personally would NOT do that unless I could get a very accurate wedge drawing from someone with a demonstrated working wedge. (I'm delighted that you have a volunteer for this.) That wedge has to be way down in the timing cover, and it must be tapped into place VERY firmly. I thought this was a rather trivial deal when I pulled the cam sprocket, but it is NOT. It's a potential huge pain in the arse. Screw that up, and you'll have to pull the fan, water pump, crank pulley, and timing cover to get at the tensioner. It is VERY difficult to get that timing cover back on with the gaskets oriented properly with the head on the engine. I gave up and had a professional shop do it.
  10. Let us know what it costs. Maybe I'll be inspired to make is functional. Don't bet heavily on that....
  11. The headlight washer pump on my 83 ZXT died years ago. Since I regard this as in contention for the most useless feature ever installed on a passenger car, I have cheerfully ignored it. There's a similar feature on my 2008 BMW 328ix Sportwagon, and the driver's side nozzle kept leaking and depleting the washer fluid. I noticed that it only leaked for a couple of hours after the system activated (automatically) so I pulled the fuse for the headlight washer. Now the headlight washers don't work when I wash the windshield, and they don't leak. And when I wash the windshield, I do the headlights.
  12. I doubt thr visual matters. Most just check emissions. For that matter, few people know what the original looks like.
  13. I've had this done once or twice, but it's not "rocket surgery" so there are many options you can find online. Mine were done in 2016 by Cruzin Performance, 1509 N. Orchard Drive, Traverse City, M 49686. Phone: 213.796.5705. (I keep a careful file, and found the receipt.) I didn't request separate data on each injector, and don't recall if I got it. The time previous to that, probably 15+ years ago, I used a gent in SOCAL and he labeled each injector separately. You might request that detail.
  14. Just for grins, I'll summarize the process of removing the dash in case it helps anyone else, having done this around six times on my 1983 280ZX: 1) Remove left and right foot well trim panels under dash (2 screws each) 2) Remove radio console (one screw holds the triangular trim piece on each side, then 4 bolts on each side; you may not have to remove wire harnesses if there's enough slack to sit the panel on the passenger floorboards) 3) Disconnect various-colored wiring harnesses on passenger side firewall. 4) Remove two large factory cable ties next to wiring harnesses; these retain the harnesses to the dash frame (these are re-usable; release the ties by pressing on the small tab on the upper side between the tail end and the metal frame, then push the tail end back out of the tie) 4) Remove the steering wheel shroud, then with a punch lightly mark the steering wheel relative to the steering shaft so you can re-install the wheel centered during re-assembly. Remove the steering wheel. I have heard that some have removed the dash without pulling the steering wheel, but I can't imagine how they did it. It's worth doing it right. 5) Loosen one screw on the right side of the turn signal assy to release the clamp holding the turn signal assy on the steering column. Disconnect wiring harnesses and slide turn signal assy forward off the shaft - it can dangle. 6) Reach under dash on the right/passenger side of the steering column and disconnect speedometer cable near the firewall (this is easy to forget) 7) Remove cosmetic plugs over four screws on top of dash - try to preserve them, they're hard to find. 😎 Remove the 8 main dashboard screws/bolts: four screws across top of dash, four bolts on bottom side of dash (two of the bottom bolts are hidden by the radio console until you remove it) 9) Remove five screws holding the center dash vent trim in place; remove center trim panel, now remove two screws holding the heat/AC control box to the dash frame. (This is really easy to miss.)You may now remove the dash. Try not to scrape it on the A-pillar trim too much; you may tape over the A-pillar trim to minimize the potential for scrapes. I find it easiest to pull the passenger side forward first; keep it low so it won't jam the dash in place. Re-installation is the reverse; right after you set the dash back in place, don't forget to check the position of the speedo cable and re-connect it. A common problem is that the cable gets routed down the left side of the steering column and can't be connected, which requires pulling the dash again. Try and avoid this.
  15. They may be wrong. Specialists are what I'd depend upon. Chances are they can be straightened by a specialist. IIRC those are not factory option wheels, they were simply a very popular style that were often purchased for Z-cars throughout the 70's.
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