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zKars

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Everything posted by zKars

  1. "BUMP" just couldn't resist! I just modified a 76 filler neck for a customer and sold him a locking cap. First one since 2016. Still have a few locking caps left. Let me know if you'd like one. $45 per locking cap. You do the work to mod your filler ring.
  2. A good contact in Vancouver area is Byron Meston. I know him personally. Although a dedicated 510 guy, he is well connected to the various Datsun communities in the area and is renown for his willingness to help those in need (as needy as all Datsun people seem to be!) 😉
  3. I’ve found pretty much the same issue with about a dozen non-working horns now, and it relates to corrosion in the power connection terminal where it passes through the body of the horn. You can clean both sides of it thoroughly inside and out, even by sand blasting, and it will look like a million bucks but will not pass current. The corrosion between the touching mating surfaces of the metal bits that make up this insulated pass through connection are severe enough to insulate. I have had to grind the head off the rivet and separate and clean ALL the metal contact surfaces to get it to work again. The rest of the horn internal parts are rarely the issue.
  4. Interesting solution. Can’t quite make out the pattern. I might suggest going to a big vehicle upholstery shop in your area and having them look through their sample books and suppliers for various vinyl patterns. I couldn’t believe the number of options they showed me when I did this years ago.
  5. AGC fuses are 0.25" diameter. ATO fuse blades are 0.025" thick. Buy 0.25" OD brass tubing at hobby shop, slit it the long way with a 0.020 slit, cut into AGC fuse minus 0.1" lengths Press the fuse blades into the slit of the little itty bitty tubie thingy. Should be tight press fit. Make slit smaller if 0.020 is too loose. Repeat for other blade. Ensure space between tubes and total width = AGC fuse width. Put in AGC fuse holder. Capn Obvious will make us little plastic rods with spacers on his little itty bit lathe to go between the two tubie slitty thingys. Done. $1.00 each. Now where to by 0.020 slitting dremel cutting wheel or equiv..... Also thought of just a generic 0.25 roll pin that already has a slit by its very nature and kinda springy in the same way. Probability of the slot being the right width is small, but if it's too small, we can fix that. Or if too big squish it in a vise until its the right size. Looking at some roll pin spec tables, NOBODY seems to list the slit width. Just because when you use them for roll pins nobody cares how wide the slot is, jeezzzz...... Come on.... Don't make me go buy the Princess Auto/Harbor Freight variety pack, please....
  6. I was thinking they are spring Stainless steel formed in a press of some sort. Would need some tension to retain the fuse blades. Just dreaming mostly. Waiting for Captain Obvious to chime in…..
  7. Thanks for doing that! I fully understand the cost of developing new products on small scale and related costs, I am not surprised at the current asking price. Being is Canada and the related added costs is something I just have to factor in. Hmmm wonder what kinda little jig I could make to bend those little clips myself….
  8. Been searching for this solution for a long time. Too bad the price is crazy. Buying 12 (comes in packs of 3, so for 10 you need to buy 4 packs of 3, or 12) are $50 USD. With exchange and shipping getting near $100 CAD.
  9. Perhaps investigate how much of that weight is the compressor vs the underdash components. The Sanden compressor for the mini isn’t more than 15 lbs and the underdash unit and hose aren’t anything north of 20. I too find the mini to be “ok” for S30’s and 510’s in our northern climate, but likely not really enough for true hot southern climates.
  10. I’ve been involved in the purchase and installation of 1.5 of Hung’s dashes. They are faithful reproductions and good quality. Hung is always great to work with.
  11. First, I am very impressed at your ambition trying to renew the harness. I have re-furbished many harnesses, but tend to just replace pins and sometimes connector shells, never all the wire as well. Rarely is the wire compromised unless I find corrosion in the strands as I replace terminals. High current wires, (ie the fat white ones) I commonly replace entirely including all ring and connector terminals. These fancy colored 10 pin 73 specific connectors have the same 6.3mm spade terminals as the other 2/4/6 pin connectors, so just remove each terminal, inspect clean or replace it, and snap it back in the housing. No need to replace the housings, which you can’t do any way, they are not available new. You can use Weatherpack or Deutsch connectors (DTM for 14gage and higher, DT for 10-12). Steve’s suggestion for 10 pin connectors are fine, but I’d just do terminal service and retain the stock housings.
  12. Extensive roll bar additions throughout do all the strengthening needed in a race car. I would add strut tower/firewall bracing to an auto-cross or weekend racer first before these chassis bars. None of the above are necessary or will provide any noticeable difference to a street driven car. Spend your money on stickier tires.
  13. There has been a couple of times I almost purchased an induction heater for stubborn things but never found one that was both economical and had lots of options. This one looks reasonable. Having an Oxyacetylene setup is handy, but expensive and bulky and storage is an issue. Let us know how it works on control arm casting heating.
  14. It would seem I can’t upload video’s or images, as others have noted. I will try again when the issue is resolved. As they say, it ain’t real without pictures.
  15. Ah yes my little jewel that is the Kardashian of the Datsun world, no real talent but having insufferable beauty, gazed upon lustfully these many years with no real contribution to society, now has to earn a living by vile hot sweaty noisy labour under the hood of an un-remarkable 4 door sedan in the middle of nowhere special. Poor thing. Is the value of an object defined by rarity or desirability? Or it’s ability to bring joy to it’s owner and those that share in the ensuing reverie? I prefer to believe the latter. Well this thing is now nothing but a (slightly) used L18. Never again will it be NOS. It has 15min of break-in time on it. I speculated that if I dared to declare that I had something no one else had, many others would come out of the woodwork and proclaim they have not one but two hiding in their basement. Thus I have not shared up until now. At the very least we will likely descend into the hell of arguing how real and accurate all the bits are to the SSS form. Or I may be scorned for committing heresy by putting such a rarity into a stock North American 69 4 door with no SSS heritage and slapping false declarations of SSS-ishness (which I fully intend to do BTW) upon its body? Well I have earned with age the privilege to do what I hell I want with it and enjoy the hell out of it, and just enjoy the slight smugness that no one, at least near me if any luck, has one (or two) just like it.
  16. Ah, thanks for the Nis-62 info. Omega has $56 bucks UPS as the cheapest shipping option to my remote location in the wilds of western Canada. $20 for the bushing. Just how bad do I want it….
  17. There seems to be no end of lessons to be learned around here. Seems it is in fact NOT a good idea to heat up the end of the extension housing to soften it to help straighten out that ding. It was not the aluminum case that suffered, it was the bronze or whatever it is bushing inside that literally melted. I found a puddle of what I would swear was solder on the bench where it had landed. And the no one on earth seems to have any NIS-62 bushings available. Out of Stock is the key word of the day. And full circle, I am now onto option 4 as above, go get a real 5 speed with the right bell housing and just put it in. Humph.
  18. Then when cleaning the rear housing, I discovered the end isn’t exactly round anymore. Used a bolt and nut and some force spreading rings and got it better. Bit afraid to push to hard and crack the aluminum casting. Mind you it dented pretty easily without cracking. Might have to warm it “slightly” to increase ductility. Nice that the opening is just a hair under 2.00 inches (1.97), I have some 2” pipe I use as backups and support.
  19. Had a chance to take that shift rod out and make the changes to it. Cheated a bit and used a mill to extend the flat area, then used a flap wheel on my angle grinder to create the ramp at the end.
  20. 225mm Z clutches use 6 bolts, 240mm clutches use 9. What is the diameter of the friction surface on that flywheel? Is it stock? Can’t say I’ve ever tried to put a 225mm pressure plate on a 240mm flywheel to see what bolts line up. Should go do that
  21. First column is this trans, next 3 are 81-83 close, 80-81 then 77-79 3.321 3.062 3.062 3.321 1.902 1.858 1.858 2.077 1.308 1.308 1.308 1.308 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 0.833 0.745 0.773 0.864
  22. Regular length, I did count teeth and computed ratio’s, will post. Doesn’t match exactly any of the ZX usual 3 suspects.
  23. And for you wussies that are afraid of weakening that rod by grinding it down, just stop those slam shifts while into 5th and reverse. The shift fork for 5-R is in behind the center plate, and all the rod in front does is support it straight in the front housing. I'd be shocked if you could break it. All the fierce shifting in the world won't bend that rod.
  24. So what do we have to do to modify the shift rod? Simple. Here I have sharpied-in the location of the depressed/ramp area on the 4 speed shift rod, onto the 5 speed shift rod. And cleverly spliced and sized a little picture of the 4 speed slot so can visualize how it has to look. If you just duplicated the 4 speed slot you'd leave an untouch area between the two where the rev lights would be turned on for a second as you shifted into 5th. Would give following drivers pause no doubt "did he just shift into reverse for a second there!?!?!?!" so So what you need to do, is recreate the "ramp" end where shown, and grind the rest of the meat to the right of that, to be just flat to meet the existing flat area. To say another, just keep grinding the existing ramp away until you have moved it to the left to the left most sharpie line, ie where it is on the 4 speed. Get your dremel, or your angle grinder, or your carbide tipped grinding burr, and get removing material. I'd start by cutting down at the far left edge of where my new extended flat is going to be (right most sharpy line) and then remove material to the right to create the new extended flat area. Then cut my new ramp. Clearly you will want to thoroughly wrap the entire guts of the transmission with something like saran wrap or palette wrap or tons of shop towels so that nothing but that short area of the rod is exposed. Chips in here would spell disaster. You can take the rod out of the transmission of course and remove all that "shavings everywhere" risk, but it means removing the 1-2 and 3-4 rods first, seven little balls and three springs to loose, three cotter pins to punch out and put back, so do what you're comfortable with. I'm going to go do this work and report back with a picture of the finished modified shift rod. Precision is not important. The flat part does not have to really flat, the ramp can be smooth or lumpy, it just has to END (get back to un-reduced OD) 2-15/16 ( 2.9375) 74.5mm in front of the center plate with the transmission in neutral. And the flat has to start at 3-3/16" from the center plate so the switch is fully extended (off) when the trans is neutral. How do you know you are neutral? All three shift fork channels are lined up with each other perfectly.
  25. Here is the visual on the switch locations Four Speed, Five Speed, further forward. 7/8 further forward. Inside, here is the 4 speed reverse shift rod with it's indent and here is the 5 speed reverse shift rod with it's indent. Switch tip sits where the blue line is in neutral, then as the fork is pushed forward as you go into reverse, the switch plunger tip climbs that ramp and depresses the switch turning on the reverse lights. Note the longer flat part to the right of the tip. This allows the reverse switch to remain OFF when the trans in 5th as the rod is pulled back. Handy.
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