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Dave WM

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Dave WM last won the day on September 12

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About Dave WM

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  • Map Location
    Central FL
  • Occupation
    retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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  1. My 75 does not have any of that stuff as far as seat belt interlocks or emerg switch buttons. Maybe was removed at some point in its life. Just reach in and start it. in gear out of gear, etc... Darwin was consulted as to how to prevent problems.
  2. not what you asked but I like my 185/R75's Speedo is very accurate, looks period correct. If I was doing it again I would get these on the stock steel rims https://www.cokertire.com/tires/175hr14-vredestein-sprint-classic.html
  3. I will be changing the oil in my test stand engine soon, its seen nothing but short duration test runs so its time anyway, not to mention the dumping of a bunch of test cleaners. Good point about possible harm to oils.
  4. you are going to want to get a factory service manual pronto. will help a lot with diagnosing issues. As mentioned do your lights work (regards of ign switch they should work if the batter is hooked up), same with the horn. do you hear a relay click under the steering wheel when you turn the key to "on" Have you checked the fuse links in the battery cable? A test light is your friend when chasing electrical issues like no start.
  5. The project farm guy cracks me up, been watching him for a while. the boss and I watch him when ever he has a new video. Cracks me up with the pointing out and reading the labels, that and the oil racing. We pick our horse and watch the fun, like going to the Kentucky derby.
  6. Yes I think my better oil use may be a factor of less reving it out. I have purposely been easy on it, most of the time spent around 2500-2700 rpm, shifting at about 3k. Perhaps that is a contributing factor as this is much more sedate than when I 1st got the car and was reving up to 4k at least with every shift. I have been looking at the otc tools for on car fuel injection. may end up with on of those as they seem like a good idea, using injector Kleen and burning just the cleaner. I am in Central florida, but work HQ is our of Chantilly va, although I rarely travel anymore.
  7. only looked at #5, yea it was prob a waste of time and money, boredom gets me in trouble sometimes. My real issue has been oil consumption on my running engine. It seems improved for some reason, I am over 1k miles on last oil change, oil is just now right at the very top of the dip stick hash marks. It was maybe 1/8" above. I presume its a very non linear measurement since the oil pan gets much smaller in volume as you go down, but still 1k and its right at full gives me hope I may get 1500k miles before having to add. I have no external leaks, and nothing in the rad, so I assume its burning the oil in the combustion chamber, not enough to see smoke, but enough to consume. I realize some oil loss is to be expected, I would like to get to my 3k miles oil change with out having to add any oil. Not there yet. I assume the primary suspect would be the oil control rings since I have addressed the valve guide seals. My guess is the oil control rings may be somewhat gummed up or the drain back holes in the pistons could be gummed up. Clearly the correct procedure would be to tear down the engine and inspect, but I am not that bored... yet... oh one more thing, I bought some rotella T4 motor oil for diesel engines, thinking of using that for its detergents to clean, and it still retains the high zinc. So far I have only used VR1 and not sure if it has much detergent in it since its supposed to be a "racing" oil.
  8. Got bored today (that's dangerous for my car" so decided to try something. I bought a 16oz of gumout with pea fuel treatment. I have heard good things about PEA as a detergent that really removes carbon. So on my test stand engine I rigged up a bottle with a feed control valve to the brake port in the intake manifold. Started the engine, well is seems my flow control was not really all that great, as I got a HUGE plume of smoke, lots of black gunk from every orifice of my rigged together muffler on the test stand. the engine ran fine, just hoping I did not get the fire dept called on me. anyway it went thru the 16oz in about 1 minute. stopped smoking. I looked with a bore scope and things did seem cleaner but its really hard to tell. At least I don't think I hurt it. I will not be doing this on my car engine as it has a cat converter and I am sure all that oily gunk would destroy it. That being said I may try this again but with some injector Kleen next time. I suspect there is oil in the treatment bottle that was causing all the smoke.
  9. hmmm so if you insure a car for say 100k (one of those agreed to value types) and if you have unlimited mileage, what's that going to cost? just curious for those that have these very expensive cars.
  10. not for me, no AC no buy. I presume the premium price is based on the low vin number? Based on that final value if it was fixed, I would be too afraid to drive it.
  11. thought experiment requires "there can be only one" (highlander).
  12. Dave WM

    1977 280z

    The delays in what ZH mentions is an important consideration. can you stand to have you car all torn apart for long periods, not lose stuff, etc... Why I advocate for getting it safe (metal work so it will protect you, then brakes so you can stop, then engine so you don't get stranded. everything else from there is gravey that you can pour on while still enjoying driving it. Personally if my car is down for a week I get sick not being able to drive it. I would only take on a project car IF I had a daily to keep my addiction in check.
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