Dave WM

I sent out a couple PM's to check in on Yarb and JSM, hope those guys are ok.

all clear, no damage.

there is a two piece with the sender mounting into a separate screw in brass holder and then there is the one piece where the sender and the screws are all one brass piece. the OE is the two piece with separate screw in / sender bits. I did not know about this, ended up with the one piece which fitment is the same, came with a O ring (not used not sure why its included). It seems the seal is made by the conical shaped end of the sender in both types.

make sure you have the dash installed as deeply onto the frame as you can.IIRC the holes on the metal frame are large enough for some wiggle room. You want that wiggle to be biased as far back (on the frame, forward from the driver posistion that is) as possible. The issue is the door opening, The dash is just big enough, if you have it forward at all you risk the edge of the dash being visible with the door open. It should tuck in behind the opening. This was the way it was on a 280z anyway.

test fit the glove box door on the new dash once installed on the frame BEFORE reinstalling the dash. You may need some tweeking to get it to open and close smoothly, much easier with the dash out.

just curious is then temp sending unit the one piece type or the two piece? I recently installed the 1 piece and it seems to indicate higher than the actual water temp using a thermometer.

I attached a breaker bar on the front crank nut 27mm IIRC. then with the air pressure on low about 15-20 psi I would hand crank it until i would feel pressure, then slowly continue until the pressure would just go away then a bit more (trying to get the piston dwell in the middle). remove the breaker bar (you dont want it attached when full pressure is added as it can suddenly move if the TDC is not just right), and then pump up to about 90-100 psi. getting the TDC setting just right takes a little bit of practice but not hard.

I would second not using a sealer, but I have no experience with it either. IIRC its alum so maybe one of the alum braze rods would be the ticket.

are you using a auto ranging multimeter?

no better after restart, it would run for a few seconds then die, there is a alt compesation circuit on some, but not mine. Looks like a little bellows under the dash. I ahve toyed with the idea of trying to hook something up, assuming all the ECU's have the ability to use it. going to lay out all the stuff I have and give it a good clean up then start taking inventory, eventually build a new stand for it.

I crapped out with my NA at 12,500 not fun as I had to turn around on a part that was very scary with an engine that would run for a few seconds only.

I installed a could long guide bolts with the heads cut off (and sloted for later removal) that I could slip the trans over taking the weight and guiding it in. Still a bit of a battle sometimes its a skirmish sometimes its a war but it will just all of a sudden pop in. I try to avg the slop in the install tool, as it tends to droop under the weight of the clutch disk. repeatedly check for easy insertion of the tool while tightening up the pressure plate and see if it seems centered (again the droop of a plastic tool and some clearance needed to make it work). make sure dowels are in good shape (maybe thats been covered). biggest advice is to NEVER use the bolts to pull it together.

no worries, ditching the idea of trying it with the stock EFI setup. I I was doing a thought experiment to answer my own question about why its not spooling up and making boost on the test stand. I assume it takes a LOT of power to spool a compressor wheel up enough to create boost at the volume needed by an engine. With that in mind the amount of drag I am seeing is minimal, assuming that is the drag does not go up with RPM. I just wanted to see if it would spool up, I have seen a lot of turbos where the guy just spins it with fingers and round she goes, but the more I read the more I find out about the differences in journals vs ball bearings and even more about the drag of a carbon seal vs what is called a "dynamic" seal. I seems the carbon seal is used for very good sealing on the intake side (I have also read that carbon seals are used on ac compressors, that would need a very good seal indeed to not lose refrigerant). Anyway back to my setup. I do have the stock turbo manifold/harness/ECU and sundry sensors, got them with the engine. So the plan now is to stop futzing around and start by sorting all out to a diagram to make sure I am not missing any parts for the EFI, then I will just build another test stand dedicated to the turbo. If the stock setup eludes me I will consider an aftermarket setup, but the data on those is fast moving, I can see some ads for complete plug and play but those seem like a lot to me (2k+) maybe that's just the way it is but I would rather try the stock setup which I have 1st. I am not in a hurry since my stock NA engine is pretty solid and I have a better NA engine as a spare. Its the one with the MN47 head that has much higher compression. Anyway its the journey that motivates me at this point so no real needs for short cuts like the plug and play at least for now. I would however like to tackle pikes peak again and not run out of power above 12.5k feet....

I am considering just hooking the manifold up to my car if I can figure out an easy solution to the exhaust, and running it like on the test stand. That way I can get some real world experience as far as getting it under loads and see if the break in is the issue. Yes Please guys with exp on these types of turbos (carbon seal) chime in. I have found some other old post from sites like Hybrid Z that would tend to agree with the carbon seat very tight turbo, but I am not a member there and the post are often quite old, still seems that was the deal.