Dave WM

I cant recall did you try removing the oil filler cap while it was running? if so did it have any effect?

The only problem with using a vacuum reading to diagnose is its going to have poor vacuum since its running badly, I use vacuum gages for checking sticking valves or other minor issues on a engine that otherwise seems running pretty well. The idle mixture control is very limited in range, so if you have other issues like a poorly calibrated AFM, then its not going to be of any help. I presume you are in a cold environment, my guess is still the temp sensor, any excessive resistance is going to make things worse. You must make sure you are getting the correct resistance AT THE ECU 36 pin connector. Of course the new/rebuilt AFM is always going to be a nagging thought. If I was sure the rest of the system checks out I would be tempted to remove the rubber elbow from the air cleaner to the afm so I could get at the flap, then try to get some way of manipulating that flap while doing all this testing. The only problem I have with this is its so typical that anytime there is a problem the go to solution (generally incorrect) is to suspect the AFM, BUT if its not OE or been messed with then all bets off.

I have been trying to check out the Blairsville area for possible retirement, keep running into weather (at least for the past month or so..) looking for smallish towns with decent mountain views that are not all weekend cabins... not an easy task.

so when is it going to get nice again up around the tail of the dragon, Dat Boi is wanting to take a run! show off his new dash!!

Now what to do with the old dash (I have two now, my decent one that came out and a JY pull that was going to be used as a experiment on fixing). For now the decent on is installed on the JY frame and will be stowed in doors. the JY dash will go in the attic for "seasoning"... Maybe one day there will be a use for these, I think this is how hoarding begins...

I have gorilla hands, not good it tight places. It was nice to see the speedo work on my test drive down the steet...

Glad you liked it. It would be helpful for sure to have a couple helpers with lifting it and getting into position. someone posted on my youtube that getting the speedo hooked up is easier if you leave the tach out until the dash is in place. I presume installing the tach after the dash is in is not a problem. I did not do it that way but would be something to look into.

Done, I am attaching the last video, see parts 1-8 if you are interested in some of the details

Next time you stop to get gas, pop the hood up while refueling (hot restart issue). Are you driving low on gas? hard left turn when low on fuel will make my car stumble (low fuel pressure from sucking air thru tank pickup). ZH has mentioned a ign fix with a modern GM equivalent, I have not done the mod but lots have. Replaces the module used by the distributer.

if you think you have a vacuum leak a smoke test will help locate it. blow smoke into the brake booster port and look for leaks. You need to cap off the AFM with a stryofoam cup. You should feel some resistance when blowing the smoke in. vacuum leaks are a common problem anytime you have poor running issues. Vacuum leaks, rust in fuel lines and bad electrical connections are a frequent issues that are easy to overlook.

got it in and started the car, checked out all the functions electrically (lights/radio/instrument/signals/buzzer) have to button up a few things, install the steering wheel and pray the speedo works, what PITA that was.... you need raccoon hands to get up in there and attach that.

Finally getting around to installing the new dash. Removal went easy, the cluster of connectors on the pass side and a few singles on the driver side. those on the driver side were removed while the dash was being pulled off, the cluster were undone before the removal process. I also removed the steering wheel all the plastic parts, and the turn signal/combo switch just leaving the bare steering shaft and the ign cylinder. That had those silly tamper proof bolts that I did not want to fuss with. removed the console finisher and the floor console of course. I removed the gauges tack and speedo, the vents the hoses. it was a good time to tidy up the connections as they were quite loose due to the loss of the foam that surrounds the hard plastic junctions. I wrapped some electrical tape around the plastic junction ends to increase the OD so the hoses would fit nice and tight. After I sorted the HVAC I moved on to the actual dash install. some observations: On mine the hard point above the cig lighter was misaligned, I ended up drilling my own hole for that sheet metal screw. Careful so as not to punch thru the das pad. carefully cut out the hole for the cig lighter and the two holes for the dimmer pot and trip meter setting. The instrument cluster fit well for the speedo and the tach, the other gauges required a lot of finesse to make sure they were set in enough to make sure there were no gaps around the bezel. It seems to me this could be a bit deeper to allow for a less precise fit being required. I ended up adding some foam tape the backs of the straps that hold the gauges in place, as is the were just a bit too far forward for the straps to hold them tight up to the dash. A good bump and I suspect they could jar loose leaving a gap from the bezel to the dash. Not a show stopper just something to make sure you have secure so it does not happen. Everything installed I moved on to the glove box. this is something that should be addressed. The flap of material around the opening is too thick. On my OE dash the flap of material is JUST the plastic covering. On the V dash its got about 3/32 of foam under the dash material That is just enough to keep the small screws that go around the perimeter from engaging the clip on retainers that fit on the metal dash. I ended up digging out the foam with a small screw driver to thin this out. I should have done this before starting the process with the dash off the metal frame. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.... just look at your OE dash and make sure the glove box area is the same. Overall the fit and finish are very good. I presume as good as the OE but for the glove box mentioned and the cig lighter metal hard point being misaligned. I caught the cig lighter and corrected before installing the dash. I thought I could get away with the glove box, but ended up fixing that after all was installed. I have the dash mostly back installed, just have to go around and tighten up the 10mm bolts around the edges, it was a bit of a struggle, my wife helped with the wires on the driver side, after a failed 1st try, we got it. Had to get the dash close enough to connect the wires and still install with out tugging it loose. Another warning you maybe tempted to remove the mount that fits under the AC control panel, it was in the way making things hard. I removed it but failed to consider how I would struggle with reinstalling it after the dash was in. the very control panel that I was trying to avoid made it very hard to get the mount back installed. I am making some videos, not so much of the process as that would be nearly impossible to do by myself, but stages of completion will post up later.

Don't know if this has been mentioned but wet plugs.. leaking fuel pressure regulator thru the vac holes /regulator not working. check for fuel at the vac hose/ use a pressure tester for fuel pressure test. stuck open cold start valve CTS (temp sensor) or wiring from it. throttle position working correct. leaking injectors, check with bleed down test how long does the fuel pressure hold after engine off. fouled up AFM (test with a voltmeter and battery for function, not a test for calibration but at least checks for gross function) hope its not been fooled with on the big main spring. ECU, not sure how to test. I have though about doing a scope test in a controlled environment to see the waveform generated when operating normally under stated parameters (heat rpm throttle position sensor). That would give a base like results to be compared with on problem engines. What would be great is a test stand that you could plug in a ECU and feed it inputs then scope the output under an inductive load to simulate the injectors. sounds like a Capt. Obvious project to me...

I could not see a video of the problem, clicked on a link, but it just came back as a blank screen.

oh and the assumption is you have the correct shifter for the trans. I know they are different, length of the short side of the pivot, the spring loaded one, etc... there maybe interference with the actual shift shaft that requires some grinding if you have the wrong shifter. to know for sure once you get into 5th or reverse does the shifter feel tight? it should not, there should be some play since the shift rod is locked in by the balls (ha). if its tight the shift rod may not be getting enough throw from the striker lever, so the balls are fulling seated into the notches on the shift rod. the result is a rod that is pulling on the striker lever constantly keeping everything in tension, result in a tight feel at the shift knob.