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Dave WM

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Dave WM last won the day on June 26

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  1. Its hard to see on those thread, but you should have a noticeable flat on the threads that engage the D shape of the strut mount insulator. What was the strut cart you used?
  2. looks upsidedown to me, going to have a heck of a time getting the strut on, it has to fit onto the steering knuckle. Don't you have a FSM to refer to?
  3. it was a little oversized (I may have just cut it a bit larger when cutting the wood) had to sand it in spots, not a big deal.
  4. honeslty cant recall, but it did have dimenions, and I did have to adjust printer setup.
  5. I made the one from the down load plans. That being said I would hesitate to go too deep into this. Back to orig problem failed HC, so I assume rich setting. easiest thing to try 1st is to confirm AT THE ECU the resistance values vs. Temps on the temp sensor. A little bit too much resistance there and you end up with a rich run. Next Start switch enrichment, again it should not be there AT THE ECU when key is not on "Start". Lastly AFM air temp sensor, again AT THE ECU. Since it has the stock ECU might as well make sure those parts are sending it good info. I just seems like its going to be hard to know what is working without a way to monitor the exhaust gases with any changes made.
  6. Did you try bleeding them? always a good start.
  7. I am going to start all over. get some NEW plugs, run them at idle for 10 min, pull them and get some pictures. get some close ups of the injectors as ZH mentioned. Lets go from there. With out a way to read the exhaust gases while tweeking its going to be up to reading the plugs for now. the hope is you can salvage what you have without having to start all over (may need to at some point but for now lets see if you can get it going for passing emissions). Still need pics of the ECU (assume its OE). Check what you can (temp sensor) throttle position sensor (cant recall the correct name, the black box on the side of the TB). Just to see if at least those are in spec.
  8. I orig thought that, but checked my test stand setup and noticed it was off kilter to and seemed ok.
  9. Yes he does have a lot of major stuff going on. On the ECU, I would think its a stock unit, based the OE style AFM (I assume aftermarkets use something else but I don't know for sure), but checking under the panel would be a good start. I can see now there will be a need for a lot of pics of just about everything to try and unravel remotely. I am guessing the car drives well? starts ok? smooth idle? etc.. are we just talking failing the HC
  10. good point about the ECU ZH, did not even think about that.
  11. indeed, I did a lot of stupid stuff in HS.. Those pressures make no since at all, I would get that gauge out of there, get a reg temporary pressure gauge, check again see if you can get the pressure right before anything else. As mentioned start with a engine off pressure 36psi, once that is right you want to see the response to the vacuum, dropping to around 30 psi at idle. You may want to get a vacuum gauge hooked up (you certainly have enough extra ports) as well. It maybe as little as an adjustment to the AFM bypass to get the HC working, but I don't know how you can really do that with out a way to read it while adjusting. I played with that bypass while reading the vacuum. If you assume the vacuum is a good measure of engine efficiency then you can watch the vacuum and see how tweeking things effect it. The most vacuum at idle. once you have it at the highest vacuum reading a bit of tweeking on the bypass to lean out the mix will reduce the vacuum a bit, that should be about the best setting for low HC. IIRC I would get a vacuum of about 19 inHg, then lean the bypass a 1/2 turn or so and it would go to about 17 inHg. At that setting removing the oil cap would kill the engine. If I left it optimized for 19inHg, removing the cap would have no effect.
  12. oh just noticed no AAR either (kinda slow today, recovering from hurricane prepitis), that sux. must be fun to start on a cold morning. Just don't get why folks have to remove stuff.
  13. I assume the PCV has been deactivated (based on the air filter on the top of the valve cover, Just curious, I assume the PCV tube on the engine block has been capped as well, If not it should to prevent junk from getting in there. A better fix would be to return it to function. Also when you say the engine number did not match the VIN, did you compare it to the ID plate in the engine compartment? the I prefer to say serial numbers since that is really what they are, and the SN of the engine never match the SN of the car (top of dash). The plate in the engine compartment has both vehicle SN and engine SN. I suppose it does not matter but the AFM is turned 90 degrees out, the plug should be on the bottom. A typical test for air fuel mix would be to remove the oil fill cap, if the starts to slow and die, then its right, if it speeds up its rich, But that only works when the PCV system is installed and working.
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