Dave WM

from mine, one line goes to the check valve that feeds the vac bottle, the other to the fast idle actuator

you should make sure you have a VERY clean head surface, then use a good quality straight edge, go from one end of the head to the other with feeler gage. you should go diagonal as well. IF you need to get head work I would suggest you ask around, you want some one that has worked on L type heads. there is a lot to take into consideration. I looked into it some, there is not only surfacing the mating surface, but also you have to make sure the cam tower surface is not bowed. If so you end up having cam issues. I have read the correct thing to do is surface both sides and then shim the cam

its easy just follow the FSM start with #1 TDC compression stroke. new chain will have two shine links to help with getting it setup up. You can see the bottom shine link on the av8 pic, lower link dot on cam sprocket.

fyi, another possible cause for low fuel pressure is clogged fuel lines, make sure your pump is not having to work too hard to get the fuel in the 1st place. the fuel should siphon thru the supply line when disconnected from the pump lnlet. If it does not you have a restriction. check this before popping for a new pump. There is also the possibility of poor electrical supply to the pump itself (thru wire and relays), check the voltage AT the pump. There will be losses along the way but you should still see at least 10v with the key on, engine off, pump running. It will prob be higher if y

you may want to take a hard look at the tail housing bushing while you are in there. Check for side to side play in the drive shaft where it goes into the trans.

and this would be why the 240z add on ac pretty much sucks. It puts the evap on the suck side of the blower and then has to direct air thru this tiny center vent duct. I remember my old 72 having that system, and it really was not very good as far as cooling.

interested in the new center duct diverter, hope to hear more about it later!

oh ok, I was thinking it was ok at one time and not now. typical of me not keeping up.

if you don't have a smoke machine a cheap cigar works very well, just puff into a hose attached to the brake booster port on the intake manifold. You have to plug up the front of the AFM 1st use a Styrofoam cup or plastic sheet or what every you have handy. A easy to miss leak is the fuel injectors o rings. they can come off while messing with the install. Anyway puff into the intake manifold and look for smoke, you should feel some resistance, but still be able to blow smoke in easy enough. Don't inhale the cigar smoke, it will make you turn green.

I would say its a problem if you have a left over snap ring. IIRC some kits include bearings that have a groove for a snap ring that is not used, but IF you are talking about bearing that did have a snap ring, and the replacement bearing has not provisions then yes big problem.

distributer. there is a port on the bottom of the throttle body, that is the "ported vacuum" it is not the same as "manifold vacuum". The ported vacuum should be connected to the distributer vacuum servo that is mounted to the side of the distributer. This vacuum servo is used to advance timing under certain engine loads. the ported vacuum line from the bottom of the throttle buddy goes to a T fitting, the two other sides of the T go to the carbon canister and the distributer. Now none of this will account for the problems you are currently working. But may as well get everything as right as p

maybe covered already but did you confirm the pin 13 to ground resistance reading as read from the 35pin connector? Warning anytime you are disconnecting the 35 pin connector from the ECU or re connecting to the ECU, do your self a favor, ign OFF and batt neg disconnected (in case you forget to ign OFF). Testing at the 35 pin connector (NOT the ECU itself) is important as often you may have issues in the wire harness, so a sensor can be ok, but the message back to the ECU is corrupted.

oh and the carbon canister switch hose (small) does not belong on the dash pot nipple. that hose should go to a T fitting on the ported vacuum (shared with the dizzy vacuum advance).

I see an EGR valve, you have check for vacuum leaks with smoke I presume. The EGR is a sneaky one, it can jam open and show no smoke (well maybe eventually out the tail pipe). You may want to check that with a hand held vacuum pump, pull a vacuum and feel underneath to see if the diaphragm is moving. Warning if you decide to pull it off you may break bolts, they tend to seize to the intake manifold.

I would think with a peakier engine (if that is what happens) then it would be a good idea to make sure you can use all 5 gears for 90% of driving, so a 3.9 or even numerically higher diff would be a good idea. A stock engine with a heavy flywheel I think is fine with a 4 speed since the torque band is so wide, you don't need to keep the engine in a narrow rpm range.