Dave WM

I got a couple from this guy. I did local pickup, only concern is how they would survive shipping. They look very OE like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCord-7114M-Head-Gasket-Fits-1970-84-Nissan-2-4L-2-6L-2-8L-6-cyl-engine-280Z/142521324095?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item212eeed23f:g:IE4AAOSw4A5Ym8kz:sc:USPSFirstClass!32819!US!-1 McCord gasket seems out of production, so old stock. What's the problem with Felpro?

I think I am going to get one, looks like fun tool to use.

I can't imagine you letting the wiggle go un measured.... :) snorkle need a procedure. If you come up with something I will try as well. I suppose a way to measure the bore would be best a series of go no/go round gauges would be best for the bore.

dusty snorkle (there is that word again CO). Clean undercoat and heavy dust on top. Seems to support the idea of something new that sat undisturbed for years. Crud on pedal, drove it in garage, never looked at it again. Very interesting. OP if you can get some video.

look under the front carpets floor boards for rust. engine bay look under the battery and under the brake master cylinder for rust. rear hatch, open and look on the car body, not the hatch, on the corners on the bottom of the opening for rust. tap along the dog legs of the body see if they sound the same as the rest of the body (common area for repair with too much bondo). look under to body for damage to the frame rails from improper lifting. Read up on the correct way to lift before letting any one work on it for you.

how are the guides? I was messing with my N47 and noticed I had NO play on the intake, some on the exhaust. Just wondering if exhaust typically show more wear.

HR puff and stuff / Sesame st were big with the heads in HS...

Hopefully one of the members here can come over and take a good look at it to tell you the best course of action. IMHO keep it as original as possible for best value (plus if you plan to make it a daily driver, they are very nice in the stock configuration.

going to have to work that out yourself, best bet would be to go to a AC shop and take the old line with you. Its a simple flare fitting, and stanrdard size line.

binary should switch at both high and low, so it should work fine, extra protection from too low Freon.

think this is called punch drunk.

induction heater tool, great for this stuff. expensive but beats the heck out of having to drill out.

wow the hits keep on coming. if you decide to remove them and they resist go with heating them, bummer to break one. I Cant see it but is the 1st under the T stat housing still there, that one often breaks. Personally I would pop for some reg OE types if the threads are not buggered up. I also like the kind sold at the auto parts stores, they have a hex head that lets you tighten up with out double nutting or special tools.

agreed, not to use sealer, and if you did not as much as you have. I removed a OE style head gasket (the kind you have shown) recently and there was NO evidence of gasket sealer. The only time I found in my research about using sealers had to do with solid metal (copper) single layer types and with them there was discussion about a light application of a spray on sealer. That being said I have fought my own battles with exhaust gases getting into the rad, so take my advise for what its worth. I installed a felpro dry per instructions. Failed the chem test for CO in the rad, but eventually resolved on its own, I have no idea why.