Dave WM

look in the index of the illustration, 57.

oh ok thx for clarifying I was getting lost

you posted two pics the top on that is covered in rubber is for the inner part of the arm, there are two sizes a long and a short. the bottom pic that is cover in steel is the for the outer part of the arm, two for each arm SAME size.

there are two types of the top, one is longer than the other you need a short and long for each side of the car on the rear suspension. not clear but it looks like # 64 in the illustration. I think the short one goes on the rear side of the inner control arm but you have it cut off so can't see the # for the front side. Just make sure you get two shorts and two longs. the lower pic is a #57 you need 4 in total all the same these go on the outer side of the control arm, two for each side of the car. the #57 can be very hard to remove, I would not bother unless they are shot. the inside ones are a bit easier as long as there is not a lot of rust on #61 bolt.

hopefully the AC works, they are a blast to drive, and not your typical 57 chevy or 60's muscle car. Good gas mileage to..."Datsun Saves" Awesome!!! check out some of the old 70's era commercials on you tube, it explains a lot about style.

nice looking car. the rust too look for is under the battery, under the brake master, rockers and rear hatch deck. Yours looks to be very solid. You may want to bone up on jacking points, IIRC the rear should be on the diff crossmember.

I took mine up your way last week, 800 miles round trip, great ride, AC on all the way, 25mpg. The 5th gear makes hiway speeds fun.

I always put some lift on the wheels when car is on jack stands, just enough to make it so the suspension is not hanging by the rubber. added bonus if the jacks fail there is another line of defense from the car falling on me. if that is not practical I remove the wheels, to take the weight of the rim/tire off.

Main thing is to see if the fuel is getting to the injectors at the correct pressure. Pulling the solenoid wire of the starter and turning the key to start should activate the fuel pump. Disconnecting the fuel line from top line off the fuel filter to the fuel rail get something to catch the fuel (under the hood looks like a can mounted to the side of the passenger side fender). Could be gummed up injectors as already noted, could be gummed up fuel pump. If gas sat in the pump for a long time, its likely its gummed up the works (the motor of the pump is cooled by gas flowing thru it). Problem areas are rust in the fuel tank, rust in the fuel lines, dry rotted fuel injection hoses. Watch out for that last one. I had a pin leak from one of the lines spraying raw gas right behind the fan. Once you get it going you really should replace all the lines with new FI rated hoses. Other areas to watch out for are the rubber bellows in the air intake system. The one that connects the throttle body to the AFM can crack with age, letting unmetered air into the system, messing up the air fuel mix. There are a lot of ground wires associated with the EFI, check them all IF the fuel injectors are not working. That's assuming you are getting gas from the pump to them. Rust is a common problem, bubbles typically mean more rust under them but no way to know for sure without digging in to it. Values are dependent on location, seems higher on the east coast, prob due to fewer survivors from rust. 2+2 typically lower in value than the coupes. The cars are a lot of fun to drive, and very easy to work on. Sounds like you have the right idea get it running and decide if its something you like.

now do the leak test. I prefer butyl sealant over silicone.

re that after market spark module, I opened it up just to compare to the OE unit. It had noticeable fewer parts, maybe later module did to. I Opened up both to examine them for use of electrolytic capacitors. Those are a chemical based capacitor well known for having a service life (they dry out). The OE had a couple IIRC the after market had none or maybe one. FYI, the ECU also had few if any electrolytic cap in it as well, that is a good thing. The parts in it were of very high quality.

I have a CA car (single pickup) got that module off ebay, think it was the same dealer as the price looks like what I paid. Works fine. A swapped it for the OE one (that was working) just to make sure it worked, kept the OE as a spare.

an offer where you are happy if the say yes or no is the right offer. "No", thank goodness dodged the bullet of having to hassle with it, "Yes", thank goodness I can't get hurt too badly, maybe can recover money as parts if decide to go that way. consider your time and effort to get and store and deal with tearing down if need to.

seems like it would be a good project for someone that really really wants to learn welding and body work. Stuff like the rotted "A" pillar pinch welds, wow, don't recall seeing that. I was saying the same thing about the hatch glass as ZH. Also JSM noted the early steering wheel.