Dave WM

IIRC yes but can't swear on it. You will prob have to add a new speaker wire, unless yours came with it already in the wire harness. Its not hard, you fish it along the main body harness, I used some guide tube to get it where I wanted. there is a later video that covers that.

Or there is something else that went wrong at the same time, I don't like to assume. I think a model year would be helpful.

yes you can do it

the assumption is you have a ammeter with an internal shunt. Later models like my 75 used as external shunt, in which case no need for an ammeter connection to complete the circuit.

you can remove the front cover without removing head. as mentioned drop the front of the pan about 1/8 inch. if you want to inspect the bottom of the tensioner then removing the front cover is best. Make sure you get a good seal around the water passages. permatex aviation sealant. also you want good clean surfaces when reinstalling. lasty use a thread sealant on the water pump long bolts.

I tip on oil pump, don't remove the spindle, just remove the dizzy so you can grab the top of the spindle with something (dont go beast mode on this, you dont want to damage just keep in from dropping). then unbolt and remove the pump. install by looking rotating the pump drive so it can line up with the spindle that is still in the engine.

did you completely disconnect the alt? that is both the large cable to the positive terminal as well as the two prong plug? as aready mentioned I wonder if you are mixing a internally regulated alt with a external VR, that would not be a good idea.

clutches and flywheels can get complicated. you have the 225 and 240 mm versions, the smaller IIRC had 6 bolt holes for the pressure plate, the larger (2+2 and ZX) has nine holes so you have to have a matching flywheel and pressure plate. Next up is the throw out bearing, there are 3 diff lengths IIRC, not sure which goes where but you want it right so the pressure plate fingers are depressed correctly when you disengage the clutch. I am not even sure the pressure plates are the same within the 225 and 240 sizes, that is some may be taller than others.

Its SO much nicer with a working A/C. I took mine out for my weekly trip to the park, 98f 70% humidity. If I did not have A/C the car would have never left the garage. With the OD 5 speed, A/C, and the new rad, I can cruize 70-75 at about 2.7k, windows up so I can hear the stereo, enjoy the ride. its a 35 mile trip on way to the park, the temp gauge never moved of the middle of the E in TEMP.

congrats! yes there should be a hole for the condensate hose.

yes. IIRC about 30$ shipping so about 100$ total. the casting was a bit rougher overall but it functionally I am sure it would be fine. I have video of it somewhere.

you can buy them new from japan. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600

ok this is a long shot.. IF the can the thermistor sits in gets plugged up by junk in the tank, I suppose its possible the small holes in the can could become blocked. this would prevent fuel from cooling the thermistor, allowing heat to build and resistance to drop. I would pull the sending unit, look it over real well for the small holes I mention, maybe even use a small exacto blade to open them up a tiny bit, and try it again. IIRC from some of the new units being made, the holes may be the issue, esp in a old tank. after clearing/opening up the holes test it before reinstal

ok so its brand new, two months old, works perfect, as in it would come on when tank was nearly empty. I mean I rarely see mine come on as I rarely get down that low on fuel. so approx how many times did it work? off and on at low fuel? describe the way it came on, suddenly or slowly when it was working.

geez this keeps coming up. I would recommend you pull the unit out of the tank and bench test it with a 12v source and the light used in the car. could be you just have the wrong light, pulling too much current causing the thermistor to run away.