Dave WM

I have attempted to highlight the areas that are diff at least on the B model

I found a pic of what I was trying to describe in my 75/76 FSM. Its fig MT-28 on page MT-8 they show two "synchronizer hubs" front is 3rd & 4th (move the sleeve one way to lock 3rd to the main shaft, move it the other to lock the input to the output no gears. there is also an illustration of the 1st & 2nd "synchronizer hub". If you look carefully at the see thru side view you will see how 3rd and 4th have an offset while 2nd & 3rd look to be symetrical.

iirc the forward most servo hub is directional, unlike the others. not sure but i think is possible to go in the wrong way. I dont know if this could cause the clunk issue, but i would recommend you look at it very closely and check the fsm. I think it mentions this.

double check the front cover. The shim will tend to stick to that on the counter shaft bearing recess. Its easy to not notice it, and if that happens its easy for it to eventually get lost as the cover picked up and moved around. The oil is pretty sticky but eventually it will fall out. I assume its there to maintain the proper mesh of the gears, if the gears get too far out of mesh they start rubbing into the hubs, it will make an awful sound, you can see this by just moving the shafts out of alignment. I don't know if the tiny bit of miss alignment cause by a missing shim (there ar

the mesh is also maintained by the counter shaft shims in the front cover that act on the outer race of the front counter shaft bearing.

my guess is there is something wrong with the wipe pattern on the rockers? if the head was machined i may need shims under the cam towers. You should ask if it was machined, was it machined both top and bottom and how much was taken off. Was it machined to make flat (warped) if so its my understanding the top would need to be machined as well. I it was machined to just clean up the surface (not warped) then the top would not need machining would still have to be shimmed. The how to rebuld your L28 book covers all this.

I assume the tires are and rims are ok? I had a pretty bad shake, I ended up getting new tires and steel rims, after that all good (they looked fine, i have to assume they may have been deformed from a long period of non use by po. How did you determine the inner tie rods were bad? I assume some measure of end play? where the boots shot? I would think the orig would be good for well over 100k assuming they were protected from elements.

slow brute force is a good way to bend things. You want sharp small impacts. Double nut it so you have something solid to rattle on, back up the rod with metal (not wood), hit it with the impact hammer. I learned my lesson about using impact when I tried to remove the rear stub axle with a slide hammer. It was the 1st time I used the slide hammer with the puller designed for hubs. The fitting did not exactly match up hole wise, but I was able to loosely get it to fit with some wheel nuts. I tried whacking the hammer a bunch, nothing happened. I was looking at youtube some some mentioned gettin

there hole that is being used to access the pin is the hole for the reverse lockout mech. I doubt nissan was concerned about the pin removal. That being said, I think a rattle hammer and backing up the rod with something solid (metal) would release the pin quickly.

sounds good. I would do a pressure check with nitrogen, look for leaks with soapy water. I think this is a better test than just checking for holding a vacuum, the system after all operates under pressure not a vacuum. But I suppose the vacuum method must be fine as that is what you generally read up on. I would let the vacuum pump run for at least 1 hour to make sure you get as much of the air molecules and boil of any water as possible.

I have read on the internet (for what that is worth) that Ester oil is compatible with both PAG and Mineral oil (the stuff used with R-12). So maybe a retro fit (that is where you reuse at least one thing like the evap) should use Ester. Another reminder is to change out the hoses for barrier hoses (again a internet piece of info) as supposedly R-12 hoses will allow smaller molecule gases to pass thru. IF I ever switch out for R-134a my plan is to go with all new stuff, including the evap. I have a new evap that uses a standard commonly used expansion valve. Its all alum just like the or

its those crimps i was considering soldering, maybe next time I have a reason to pull the fuse box. They looked very good last time I had it off, I was thinking about it, but I can't remember if the spring clips were fastened to the fuse box (in which case heat from the solder iron may be an issue) of if the removable (perhaps snap in like). Oh and yes it was the 2 from the bottom left side "Dome" light fuse that was for the hazards. The IR gun was not a good idea, as you mentioned the resolution was not good enough to narrow down to the exact fuse. I agree the FLIR would be perfect, a ni

nice work!

I was starting to cramp up, otherwise I would have pursued the hazards. Getting into those tight spaces is harder the older you get. As an experiment, I am going to try using the IR gun to see if I can pick up the heat off the fuses to see which ones are active. Just a tiny bit easier than popping them one by one. You may note the small O rings on the right hand side, 2nd from the bottom. That is the AC fuse. That one runs hot if you use "MAX" ac. Now the manual calls that "emergency" or something level of cooling. So I guess they realized it was a weak point. My fuse box is in good shap

if there is no video it did not happen..