Dave WM

indeed, the self contained approach is less invasive to wiring. Very good point. Now if you can figure out a way to install an idiot light that comes on when people text while driving you should try out for "shark tank", not for them mind you as idiot is a forgone conclusion. Something that mounts on the roof for the rest of us.

a couple low tech solutions, a N.O. heat activated switch like the one I used for my EGR, could even just build it into an existing water temp switch housing (same housing two switches) that would cover the temp gauge, then maybe use a later style oil pressure switch, the one with a built in switch for the fuel pump to activate a light instead of the fuel pump. would have to invert the output but that would not be hard.

lol to the Muntz reference !

pg 35 fan control setting "4" is for emergency air... I guess the implication is you should not run it in that position for extended periods. perhaps the fuse getting hot was an issue even back then.

more fun, page 98 front end shimmy, lol no kidding even when new. IIRC our 74 260 shimmy was fixed by getting rid of the turbine mags and going with stock steel rims. Always fun to read old owner manuals to see what the issues were back when new.

recently down loaded pdf of a 1975 on this site. Page 14 Thanks 2377kN!

there is a mention in the owners manual about a low oil pressure light? this is addition to the oil pressure gauge. I never saw a provision for a light like that in my 75.

well that pretty much means its got to be the FPR. Should be interesting to confirm with the air compressor test. I don't think that kink could possibly be the issue.

does the AFM have the rubber plug still in it. the plug that covers the idle bypass air?

I will get some pics later to better illustrate what I am dealing with.

this looks like a promising site. https://www.rotorclip.com/cat_pdfs/dti.pdf

oops, forgot this was a junk yard find, don't recall the year. but its not staked, had the press in retainers. Would like to know where those could be found too, just in case the inside C clip types don't work out. the retainer look something like this

I am sure its been covered but seems like I could not find the exact procedure. I removed the self locking retaining rings (chisel break them out they came) but I can't seem to press the u joint far enough to get the cap to extend more that about 1/8" at most, not enough to grab and pull the cap off freeing the U joint. I may end up welding on to the cap so I can pull it off. I seems the internal structure of the U joint prevent sufficient clearance to push the cap out any further.

Are you trying to support 700 hp? If not I would be wondering if that much fuel having to be regulated back to the tank would stress out the FPRegulator. Did you say this is the second pump that is only producing 26psi? and that is with the return clamped off? You say you are sure its the pump but I don't remember you saying you tried feeding the pump as I mentioned to make sure its getting a free flowing supply. The pump is designed to push fuel not pull it thru a restriction.

Not excessive (compared to mine, which works fine) so now we know the power supply to the pump motor is not the problem. and the amp draw is ok, this would tend to say the motor is at least drawing the correct amount of power. Next did you ever try feeding the pump from a source other than the fuel tank? That would eliminate a fuel supply issue. I would just get a gas can and a long rubber fuel line, set the gas can up on a chair so its about the same as the fuel tank, and hook that up to the inlet of the pump.