Dave WM

this is the one I was looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/352359349981?ul_noapp=true

Failure #2 happened when engine was off (lower voltage) don't know if the lower speed had anything to do with it. Pulled it up and its fully extended now, maybe the kink will relax but I doubt it. Next up will be the .155. I also found the mid 70's corvette antenna mast and line looks very much like the Datsun setup. 50$ is an expensive gamble though.

that would be great, I am in no big hurry, just would like to fix it if fixable.

have AC, so would like to know before I pull it out. since it has to return to center I assume it has to have some kind of spiral spring that hopefully has an adj.

my early 280z uses the ammeter which I prefer to a voltmeter, anyway the problem is its not center when no current is being drawn. I was wondering if anyone knows off hand if there is a centering adjustment mechanical I would presume.

best thing you can do with a z is go put some miles on it, I swear the more you drive it the better it runs.

fun to go to the JY, can always find something to make the cover worth it. found a 10$ behind a glove box one time. around here its like a family outing, I see folks bringing the wife and kids, setting up picnic style out in the parking lot while the old man is in the JY.

I was a little confused about the extra cut outs in the OE jute, but I duplicated them anyway.

bought some jute from Mac's used the old beat up jute as a pattern. the little rubber heel guard was shot so I just cut up a junk yard mat for now. I have found that hook of hook and loop grabs the carpet very well so I will end up getting some replacement rubber that is a better fit. The OE carpet had it sewn on. The rubber backing on the carpet is about 20% gone, the plan is to try some plasti dip spray to add back the missing rubber backing.

not a huge deal, I am sure if you ever wanted one another could be obtained. Just keep an eye on that alum one. Hopefully it will not be an issue. I don't recall seeing shrouds on any alum install so my guess is they don't fit up right. I am only guessing about the need for it as far as AC is concerned, perhaps its not an issue.

Don't know anything about brake brands, I am pretty sure mine is not OE and has been fine so far (2 yrs + on it). I hope you kept your old rad, you can get them recored at a good shop. The thing about alum is its not really fixable like old copper brass stuff. I had a fan break loose and tear out a row of tubes, took it to a gas station on an interstate, he soldered them up and sent me on my way. the water pump failed was able get one of those and got me on my way. I see a lot of new copper brass rads, but I don't know who makes or how good they are. Also IIRC the drain seem to be in the wrong place for my setup.

I get OEM if easy to get. Example IGN switch, can still get cost 40$ vs 25$ for the aftermarket, not enough money savings to warrant after market. Pretty much apply that to most non critical stuff. really just have to do a case by case basis. I spent 250$ on a OE fuel pump vs 100$ for an after market, I just thought the OE would be more reliable AND a better match for the needs of the FI system (OE had lower pressure output, you don't need 90psi, so why stress out the FPR and plumbing for that). I notice you don't have a shroud on the rad, I don't know if that will effect the cooling in hot weather of the engine, but also you should consider the effect on the AC, you need the air flowing thru the condenser which may need the shroud even if the rad does not.

another financial reason to keep it intact, if you look at your car as an investment which I do not but understand some may, I suspect the minimal cost to maintain originality of ALL systems is something that pays off in the market. You can spend money to delete things or mod things that end up detracting from the value of the car, again based on current market driving forces. Yes a well modified car can bring in more money but generally not to the point of offsetting the cost of the mod. I don't think most of us here care much about the financial reasons for moding or not moding a car. Just something to consider. Think gas monkey garage, a lot of well done mods, but will the cost be recovered, prob not, would have been an easy flip with a profit, from a business point of view a loss, perhaps from a marketing point of view a gain. darn it Jim I am an accountant not a salesman (in my best Dr McCoy impression).

think he is in TN, in FL there are NO vehicle inspections. grab some chicken wire and duct tape and you are good to go with pretty much any car repair. "the rules are different here" state motto. that being said, my setup is completely stock, I like keeping everything as oe as possible. I was driving around in a parking lot the other day, guy says "you got a price on it" my response is "taking it with me to the grave" him, when you gonna die!

all kinds of opinions here. I am not qualified to answer other than to say what I have read indicates deleting it has no real performance advantage at full throttle (contrary opinions exist of course). Some say it will benefit the gas mileage at partial throttle, Seems the main thing it is designed for is to lower the combustion temps to reduce the creation oxides of nitrogen (key to making smog). I geek out over trying to respect the original design so tend to go that direction. I have it and AFAIK its not a problem. A recent trip returned 25mpg at mostly 70-80 mph. The main thing is to make sure the EGR valve is clean and fully closed at idle to prevent an leak of gas into the intake that would cause a rough idle. Easy to test just lift up the diaphragm of the actuator while idling. It will run rough, release and it should settle right back down. For me the idea of lowering combustion temps was the ticket, I like that. I don't have a lead foot and tend to take it easy mostly very short trips and the occasional long trip. It is one more thing to go wrong, but its not very complicated so not hard to service and have working right.