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S30Driver last won the day on June 2 2020

S30Driver had the most liked content!

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567 Excellent


About S30Driver

  • Rank
    One of the many Jim's


  • Map Location
    NW Arkansas
  • Occupation
    Realty Consultant

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Orange 77 280z Coupe 3rd owner original paint<br /><br />
    <br /><br />
    Silver 1971 240z<br />
    Blue 83 280zx Turbo Coupe (sold)

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  1. If you have the correct tap, maybe its worth chasing and cleaning up the threads on that intake bolt hole and see if that improves the bolt threading in. The torque for the big intake bolts is about 25 ft lbs.
  2. #2 Only if the trans mount rubber is split, torn, or perished would I replace it. If it looks ok, just re-use it.
  3. Sorry to hear you're hurt Charles. Looking forward to seeing you next year.
  4. This is the filter I have always used and currently installed ...
  5. Alright, two concurring votes of confidence is good enough for me!! I'll leave it alone and go with it. Thanks guys!
  6. That is reassuring.... I have the Zcon drive of about 1600 miles roundtrip coming up. Are you saying not to worry about it and leave it alone for now? Thanks for your input Bruce.
  7. When I recently built up the new motor which now has 300 miles and running well. I somehow missed the plug in the oil filter boss which normally has the spring loaded bypass valve. I changed the breakin oil / filter the other day and noticed it. I must be getting older.... I know it is important should the flow become blocked thru the filter to not let the motor starve for oil. My question is, can I safely drill out what appears to be a plug,then pull it out with something, mabe use a magnet and vacuum to not let any metal chips get ingested and replace it with a new bypass valve?
  8. I have seen the pass side drain plug on 70 71 240z's. Not sure when the change to rear sump drain was made. Must have been tough to get those 17mm TC rod nuts started....
  9. Very Nice! My kind of tire shop... Car looks great, looking forward to seeing it again next month.
  10. Will you be there this year Bryan? it's only a easy 1700 mile drive. If so, I'll watch for you...
  11. You're most welcome Greg. In the meantime, keep your eye out for a zx alloy compressor bracket. Easier to modify and far lighter that the cast iron version.
  12. Out of interest ... why do you feel the need to flush the evaporator? You have a new compressor, condenser, & drier, if you kept the system sealed up and not exposed to the atmosphere and the old compressor was not sending chunks of debris thru the system, if it were me, I would leave it alone. Just draw a vacuum down for a few hours to remove any moisture. Just my non ac expert opinion....
  13. Darn It! Maybe next year ....
  14. Last Wednesday, I completed the final phase of my fresh motor rebuild with the AC system upgrade to a new Vintage Air Sanden 508 compressor and replacement of the air drier. (my system was already converted to r134a by Nissan years ago) All went well, drew down a vacuum and let it sit overnight - no leaks, charged the system with 27oz of r134a, and now have 42 F air out the vents. Below are the original and new flex line hoses I needed to complete the hookup to the new compressor. Parts needed are 2' of number 8 and number 10 ac hose, a #8 135 degree o-ring fitting with service port o
  15. Recently, I have noticed a decline in the movement of my passenger side windshield wiper. I had time to investigate it today, and found the source of the problem. The passenger pivot arm that connects to the linkage was slipping and not allowing the wiper to sweep more than a few degrees. After getting access and removing the pivot assembly, I discovered the two welds that connect the shaft to the pivot arm were broken. There is also a spline on that end of the shaft, but had worn, probably sometime after the welds failed allowing the shaft to slip. Cleaned it all up, welded the shaft
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