S30Driver

Big thanks to Steve for putting me on to the kit with the male & female pins I needed to adapt the new Speedhut gauges to the stock dash harness 6 & 8 pin connectors. They worked out well.

A timely post on windshields. Last year I replaced my original pitted windshield with a oem green tint, no blue top band replacement manufactured by Fuyao Glass. Fuyao is a large oem manufacturer with plants here and overseas. I discovered that Vintage Glass sources the Fuyao windshields and re-sells them. The total cost with shipping was very high, so after much research, I found a very large glass distributor in Tulsa that had them in stock and picked it up at their warehouse. Very recently, a group of us, including a notable member in Austin purchased a number of the Fuyao S30 windshields. We discovered that this distributor had a total of 9 in various warehouses around the country. We purchased all of their existing inventory, and after they arrived, picked them up. At this point are all are spoken for. The distributor indicated that they had no idea when or if they would ever be manufactured again. This is what drove our decision to purchase all of the inventory. I took a quick picture after unloading them last weekend...

No, the dropping resistors are removed and not present.

FWIW, I installed this system in a friends 75 280z about a month ago. Works very well, and I can assure you it is running on the stock Nissan injectors. Don't have the manual in front of me to look the specs up.

As previously mentioned, you need to make a change with the headlight harness to convert it from the negative ground switched to positive switched for the led lights to work. If you are in the market for led's, take a look at Vintage Car Led Headlights (they don't look funny) https://vintagecarleds.com/7-inch-round-headlights/ Highly recommended ....

You are correct Cliff. The switch in the picture looks like an aftermarket one. The oem switch has spade connections as opposed to the wires coming from the molded switch body. Mine, one of the spade connections was broken off almost flush with the switch body and I was able to solder the connection to get it functional. I eventually need to replace the air dryer and the switch, but am getting away with it for now.

What is the height difference of the header flange & intake? Is it less than the height of the thick stock washers?

@Zup can probably give you some insight on those carb hoses. He is very knowledgeable on that particular carb configuration.

Although you say you checked for vacuum leaks, I would get a gauge and check the reading, see where you are at.. As a quick test, when warm and running at idle, unscrew the oil cap, remove, and see how the motor responds. Its a sealed system, if no change, you have a significant vacuum leak. As an example, when you changed injectors, did you replace all the seals with new ones? Before changing more parts, if you have not done so, run the all the efi system checks in the 78 shop manual, record the info and report back. Many members here can help you interpret that information.

All good info. Another possibility if the above check out is the clutch ball pivot has broken. You will know when you examine the slave and the actuator arm it moves. Hopefully not, its a little more labor intensive to get to.

Greg, that is a full cover and not a Vintage Dash I am assuming... Looks nice, and passed dreaded heat test.

I would say that should work, unless someone else has a better solution. Don't forget to re-install the important heatshield that protects the pcv hose when you get to that point in assembly.

The block breather tube is simply a interference or press fit John. How loose does it fit in the block? Glad you made it back, hopefully safely amid all the mayhem of late...

I think you are mostly right if you mean the separate welt / weatherstrip the earlier cars had. All the aftermarket stuff is the combined type. However, once in a while the NOS door weatherstrip shows up. I found 2 sets three years ago, sold one and kept one for my 71 z car.

I have the oem hatch gasket (its cost is reasonable), and last fall, installed a new windshield with the precision gasket. Quite happy with the result. Right now, the windshield oem gasket is under $300 and if I was doing it now. would go that route. It was well over $400 when I did mine.