S30Driver

The seat back foam should have a channel molded into the foam that the round edge of the metal frame fits into. This channel should be present on both bolsters and the headrest section of the foam. Maybe take a picture of the back side of the seat back foam. Have never used MSA''s foam. What material is the dark area of the foam?

I think Mark may be referring to the 8008 adhesive.

I don't think so. Number 1 , it would destroy the 22 trillion dollar US economy. Number 2 , I think the trucking, farm, and aerospace industries would not like it. Number 3 , crude oil is refined for much more than fuel, plastics etc. Take with a grain of salt what you read or see on those radical left new green deal websites. As far as the gas goes for your 280, run quality non-ethanol if you can. I replaced a $300 Nissan fuel pump inn a friends 280 last year that was leaking due to sitting with ethanol fuel. I am lucky, the Phillips 66 near me has non-ethanol in mid and premium grades. My .02 cents (dollars actually)

Thanks for the update. Bring it up to Branson in October so we can critique it ... 😎

Yes, I had too cheap a set of extractor tools, but worked well enough on the instrument pins to complete that job. The brass tube looks like a good idea. Looking for the one for the large pins in the round headlight connectors so I can get those connectors 3D printed.

In my experience with the trim, it is actually stainless, not chromed, so it polishes back up nicely with steel wool and a buffer. Therefore as an alternative to new, a used set if carefully removed from say a parts car by cutting the rubber seal to release it without bending and distorting it is a excellent option. I invested in the trim tool to re-install it in the seals channel before putting the glass back in. The trim re-installs easily with a soapy lube in the channel if its shape is not changed on removal. Unfortunately, I am guessing parts cars are few and far between in the UK. It is OEM from ZcarDepot, the 200 prefix in their part number is the key for OEM.

Yes.... ZcarDepot has both front & rear oem trim. Spendy at over $300 each kit. https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/windshield-and-hatch-glass-trim-chrome-set-240z-260z-280z?variant=19281681449073

My experience .... 1 The Precision seals (sold by many of the above mentioned vendors) the windshield seal works & fits well with no gaps including the fit of bright trim, also the quarter window seals. I paid a lot of attention to fitment and positioning the seal and the trim perfectly on the glass before installation. 2 For the hatch window seal I went with OEM Nissan, about $190, for the difference in price, I considered it worth it. The outer hatch Precision seal is fine. 3 The door seals are the biggest issue, I have used the Kia 0K018-59760B seal on my hatch, fits and works well. Others report they work perfect on the doors. I suspect the 2002 Kia Sportage seals may no longer being made now that it is 2020.... I have some Vintage rubber seals coming for my neighbors project 240 now ready for paint. Will comment on fitment when that stage is reached.

I have seen them but never used them myself. Many of the cheap colored, anodized lugnuts are aluminum alloy. My problem with them would be the 2 dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) causing corrosion and grafting the lugs to the nuts. I'll stick with steel.

Consider a Exedy 240mm turbo clutch kit, and appropriate flywheel. Have the flywheel lightened to compensate for the heavier clutch parts. Should handle your power well.

It does not get much more RFD than where I live in nw AR. No traffic except the odd tractor, low cost of living, easy drive to Zup's garage for spirited Z car talk and barbeque goodies. (hard to compete with Road Atlanta but what the hell...)

Have you replaced the rack bushings Dave? Easy to check, watch for any vertical movement when turning steering wheel with hood open. Need helper or your camera for passenger side check. Might be unrelated to your problem but worth checking.

Ditto .... Sold my Halda stuff with car long time ago. Wife did not like the sport / competition or the look of the drive cables on the car coming from the front hubs and curving around into the grill area. Still have some of the gear sets to calibrate the mileage somewhere.

Yes, looks like you can connect the Blue pin to 12v + and the Black pin to ground - to test your clock.

The "Reds" are special active shocks which automatically change the damping based on driving and road conditions. The "Yellows" are the Sport shock aimed at street and track use.