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  1. My Matsuo-san story dates back to the 2015 ZCON in Memphis, my first such convention. It was the wash day morning and Matsuo was strolling around the parking lot observing all the cars getting cleaned. He stopped by my car as I was desperately trying to get it dried before water spots could take a set. He began sharing the story of the origins of the hatch strut. He said they took the concept from the canopy strut of the elegant French Mirage aircarft but it was a relatively expensive piece to build. As a designer they had to fight the accountants to move forward with the part. When they suggested the car would benefit from two struts, the bean counters made it clear they would make do with one! He also spoke briefly about the inclusion of carpets for the US market, stating that although they might be able get away with rubber mats in Japan that would not be the case for the US-bound cars and even then they had to settle for less costly looped-style carpet over a higher cost cut pile product. He chuckled about the ongoing battles with the bean counters throughout the entire design and build process. He was indeed a wonderful and entertaining personality and we are all so very fortunate to have had him in our Z car history.
  2. Yea, sorry to be the bearer. From what I saw on Facebook, he just celebrated his birthday. I recall sitting in a bar with him at a ZCON in Long Beach. I enjoyed a certain sort of connection with him, designer to designer, when he took out a pen and started sketching. I still have some some of his sketches.
  3. So fraud, basically. I have often found it 'interesting' how quickly and freely Mr Larry Stepp ('Lstepp4re' on Bring-a-Trailer) and Mr Robert Jackson ('The240ZGuild' on Bring-a-Trailer) have been able to get their comments past the scrutiny of BaT administrators and published tout de suite. It's almost as though they were getting favourable treatment. Whenever I've tried to leave a comment I often find a long wait (if I'm lucky) or it just doesn't get published. And if it does get published, it only takes five individuals to get a comment flagged as 'Unconstructive' and deleted, so easily open to cliques who find a particular comment not to their advantage. Mr Larry Stepp, Mr Robert Jackson/'The 240Z Guild' and Mr Randy Nonnenburg/'Bring-A-Trailer' are all heavily featured in the same chapter of the new Pete Evanow book. Interesting...
  4. I've been lurking in the community learning a lot of stuff over the couple of months, but this is my first post. I live west of Toronto, Ontario. I have an 04/71 240 that I bought back in 1994 (I'd had a couple of 240s and a 280ZX back in the '80s). The car came from Georgia, but I don't know much more history than that. I drove it summer and winter(!) for about five years, then garaged it when it started to get some visible body panel rust in the usual places. I managed to keep the car out of my mind until a few months ago when someone told me what was happening on BaT. I don't have any expectation that my car will ever be worth what some of those have gone for (and I can't imagine selling it), but just reading about Zs again got me re-addicted (Hi, I'm Dave and I have a problem). I started poking around at the car and was pleasantly surprised by what I found. I decided to carefully see if I could get it started after 20 years. Fortunately there are good threads in here to help avoid disasters. I'll spare you all the mundane details, but after several weeks of prep, I turned the key with the plugs in and connected and it came close to starting before flooding. So, here's my first question (I already have lots)! Where do Canadian Z owners source parts? I'm going to need lots over the next couple of years and I'm sure some of you guys can save me a lot of wasted time and money. At this point I need a valve cover gasket and carb rebuild kit. It's easy to find US suppliers of parts. Is that the best bet or are there Canadian (even Ontario) suppliers of some parts? I'm happy to take this conversation offline if it's not relevant to most members, but I figured I should introduce myself and say thanks to all the fine people in this forum who've been so generous with their knowledge, and their descriptions and pictures of their work. I'm no mechanic, but I think I can do a lot of the basic stuff to get this project going. I've loved Zs since 1984 when I sat in my first one. It feels a little bit like magic to me that I have one sitting in my garage!
  5. Yes, that was him. He got even more laughs in 2018 when he was explaining the unusual number of car seats breaking in America due to Americans having sex in the cars.
  6. I honestly don’t know why anyone would want to restore this one. As people have already mentioned, it’s only original once. I would pdr what I can and rock it from there. It already has some flaws, so you don’t have to get anxiety over taking her out for a spin, but presents itself well enough that most people wouldn’t believe it hadn’t been restored yet. I think it looks amazing as a 50 year old driver. Sure you can find a few low mileage, near flawless all original examples from cars that lived most of their lives in the garage, but this z was actually driven (for the most part) and wears very few battle scars from it. If I was in a position to buy these cars that pop up on BAT, I would’ve gladly paid more for this one than the Orange 240z that sold just before it. How many 240Zs can say they’re still wearing their original Nissan skin and look that good?
  7. If it were mine to own I would preserve the car and repair/replace what it needs. There is not anything glaringly wrong with the car as it sits. I would rather have a 240z like this than one of the VZ cars. As I pointed out on BaT the new owner previously purchased a 3/70 240z about 5 months ago and the two cars are only 170 units apart from each other. Hopefully its new owner will cherish it and preserve it in the same vein as the 2nd owner.
  8. Yeah, I bought a set of OEM door cards sometime back that had the holes for the pull handle on the driver side. All doors have the receiver threads for the bolts that hold the pull handle on (at least my early 71 did). I just attached a new pull handle and was done. It’s a nice addition and I always wondered why the set was cut for the driver side handle. Anyone know the answer? @Carl Beck BTW....nice job in picking that out Site.....very observant!.
  9. Is he the guy that spoke at the awards dinner in Memphis? I think Eiji translated for him. I remember some good laughs from the crowd as he spoke and a lot of clapping when he left the podium.
  10. How incredibly sad 🙁. He will be greatly missed. Always enjoyed my conversations and time with him. Just one story: It always amused me that at the ZCON judged shows (and other car shows) he would walk around and touch parts, open doors, turn lights off and on, etc. Nobody else could get away with that but him. In fact most consider it an honor that he handled the cars.
  11. By the way @zclocks, I showed Matsuo-san your website when I was helping him with preparation for his tech talk in 2018, and the subject came up about the rally clocks IIRC. He was pleasantly surprised with your work, and he asked me to make a print-out of your website for him.
  12. 2 points
    1976 280Z Combination Switch Teardown Problems to be remedied: 1) The turn signal self – canceling pawls won’t return by their own spring force; 2) The turn signal lever is slow to return from the R or L position after being released; 3) The selector detents (headlights, signals, wipers) feel sticky and imprecise; and 4) Headlight and turn signal switch contact resistance is high and inconsistent. In addition to needing these repairs, I was concerned about the integrity of wire harness connectors, solder joints, switch contacts and springs, and wire insulation and wanted to perform a thorough inspection. Pic 1 Pic 2 The teardown included every removable component as well as disassembly of the switches. I passed on taking apart the headlight high/low push-button type switch though. All the other switches were taken apart by either bending up the tabs on the metal back cases or removing screws to release the internal components. The high/low switch is a snap-together type and I did not want to risk breaking the plastic housing or the phenolic board that snaps into it. The disassembly process for everything else is very straightforward – as everything is secured with phillips head screws. After disassembly, all the mechanical parts were cleaned in mineral spirits which very quickly dissolved the hardened grease and oil but not enough to obviate needing a toothbrush. After drying, a careful application of fresh grease and oil, where appropriate, made everything work like it should. Switch Identification Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 TEARDOWN Take care to keep the springs with the bits they belong to. Although most appear to be the same, there are differences in diameter and spring rate. Separate the two halves of the assembly and disconnect the bullet connector that electrically links the two halves: Pic 6 Remove the screws securing the wire right side wire retainer. Note the retainer passes between the washer pump wires: Pic 7 Reassembly Note: The left side wire retainer goes to the bottom notch. The top notch is just visible in the extreme lower left corner: Pic 8 Remove the (3) headlight switch screws. Doing so will release one washer pump contact. As you lift the switch, keep track of the (2) spring-loaded plungers beneath it and the nylon shoulder washer that insulates the washer pump contact from the screw securing it (Pic 10): Pic 9 Pic 10 Remove the (3) screws from the wiper speed switch. Doing so will release the other washer pump contact with its shoulder washer. Remove the sliding contact and spring, as well as the black detent pin and spring: Pic 11 Pic 12 Pic 13 Pic 14 Remove the (1) screw holding the washer pump contacts and (2) pieces of plastic that sandwich them: Pic 15 Pic 16 If you do not intend to disassemble the hi/lo switch, the wire retainer for that switch and the turn signal switch can remain attached to the wiring on that side. Remove the (2) screws holding the turn signal switch and the (2) screws holding the high/low switch: Pic 17 Remove the (1) screw holding the horn contact to its white plastic base, then remove the (4) screws for the self-cancel mechanism. Note that both pawls are out of position: Pic 18 It isn’t absolutely necessary to disassemble the right hand stalk (with the headlight, wiper, and washer switch controls) in order to deal with the problems described at the top of this thread. That said, let’s dig in. Remove the washer pump actuator rod by depressing the washer pump button and disengaging the white plastic retainer from the head of the rod. The rod will easily slide out. The plastic bushing on the small end may fall off the rod when it’s withdrawn from the stalk. They appear to serve to keep the rod centered in the bore: Pic 19 Pic 20 Pic 21 Remove the white plastic wiper switch actuator arm (friction fit on shaft) (in the background), and then the retaining ring beneath it that secures the headlight switch actuator arm: Pic 22 At the opposite of the stalk, remove controls by removing the retaining ring: Pic 23 Pic 24 Slide the black sleeve off the shaft to expose the c-clip: Pic 25 Pic 26 On the left side assembly, after removing the self-cancel mechanism, remove the torsion spring. Then, on the reverse side, remove the retaining ring to free the turn signal actuator block, and then the sliding white plastic block. Once removed the detent balls and springs can be extracted (take care to catch them as you pull out the actuator block): Pic 27 Pic 28 Pic 29 Unfortunately, the pin that retains the turn signal lever is swaged on the end opposite the round head. The only way to remove it is to cut if off or try to make it round enough to get through the hole in the block, which is what I did. I figured I’d just make a new one on the lathe. The problem of course is how to swage the end again so it’s flat. Pic 30 The block, which appears to be a zinc die-cast type part, holds the upper pivot and spring post, which is a brass serrated pin, by means of swaging the zinc shoulders around it. This one is very loose, but there is no damage. It’s just the zinc deforming over time from the barrel of the torsion spring bearing against it. There is very little zinc base area below this pin and less above it (to clamp it in place). I could see no good way to reinforce or otherwise add something to improve the retention force, so I used a socket that fit well and put it on the press – gently. The brass pin tightened right up, but I doubt it will stay that way long. I really wanted to silver solder it or something, but fear of catastrophic failure made me think otherwise. Pic 31 Pic 32 Pic 33 While it’s all apart, it’d be a good time to repaint the lever and polish out small scratches in the plastic knob (wet sanding with 400, 600, and up worked well). SWITCH DISASSEMBLY Wiper Speed Switch Remove the (3) screws to expose the contacts. Be very careful with the thin phenolic spacer. Its thickness matches that of the fixed contacts and prevents the sliding contact from getting hung up on the edges: Pic 34 I did not remove this rivet to gain access to the wiper motor contacts, as I had no way to safely replace it: Pic 35 Headlight Switch Bend up the tabs on the metal case to release the phenolic contact board. Do not straighten them, just move them enough to free the board. Every time the metal bends it work hardens. When you reassemble the switch, the tabs will not want to bend back exactly the way they were. Also, should it be necessary to open the switch again, the tabs could break from being hardened. Note the evidence of contact arcing inside the case: Pic 36 Pic 37 Pic 38 Pic 39 The contacts have suffered some pretty good erosion and cannot be easily repaired. My solution was to simply reverse them from one side of the switch plate to the other to permit the untouched ends to make with the posts on the board. It might also be wise to consider adding a pair of arc-suppression diodes to this circuit (and perhaps to all the contact sets showing similar evidence of arcing): Pic 40 Pic 41 Pic 42 Turn Signal Switch Same process as for the headlight switch. Bend up (3) tabs. Inside the case is a actuator plunger and spring, and a moveable contact. Contact erosion was minimal and they were freshened up quickly: Pic 43 Pic 44 High/Low Headlight Switch Because this switch is assembled by snapping the contact board into recesses in the switch housing, I decided not to attempt disassembly out of concern for either part breaking. If it ever fails, then I have nothing to lose by attempting a repair: Pic 45 Pic 46 Reassembly Notes As mentioned above, overworking the tabs can cause problems. The first pic is what you might get if you are not careful with re-bending the tabs. Notice how the contact board does not sit flush to the outside of the case. It’s because the tabs do not easily bend where they originally did and are now bending lower, toward the case. The remedy is to gently work the tabs so they are not pushing sideways against the board. The second pic is after tuning them: Pic 47 Pic 48 The washer pump contacts are held in place sandwiched between two white plastic parts, the one shown below in Pic 45 and the one shown in Pic 16. The bosses indicated by red arrows below mate with matching female recesses in the other part. Pic 49 If you have any plastic bits showing some distress, consider setting the retaining screw(s) gently and applying some blue Loctite, as opposed to cranking down on them which could invite a bigger problem. Pic 50
  13. Also, the new NAFTA 2.0 just kicked in so no duty is paid on orders under $150 CND.
  14. Perfect. This one is 24 in the middle. That should settle it. Thanks!
  15. 15 Nov 2005 - Carbs and Hatch The news started early this past week. On Tuesday a box full of parts from Danny's Datsuns arrived. I had ordered a few parts for the upcoming carb installation from him - an air cleaner, heat shield, return springs and choke cable assembly. At first glance, it all looked good. But after closer inspection, the only parts that were acceptable were the return springs. The choke cable assembly was wrong, it was for a '72, not the earlier '70-71 that I needed. The heat shield had one mounting tab broken off, and a second one (there are four) was cracked. And the air cleaner looked OK from the outside, but inside the air horns and crankcase vent tube had all been cut off with a hacksaw. I called Danny to explain, and he was great to work with. He was certain that he could find an acceptable air cleaner and heat shield for me. Not as certain about the early choke cables, but he'd give it a shot. And since his shop is only 60 miles from me, I asked if I could drive down rather than ship the stuff to him. He agreed to that quickly, saying that by doing so, I can look over the parts and approve them there on-site. "Plus," he said, "you never know what else you might see while you're here that you just have to have." So we made an appointment for late Friday afternoon. Deanna and I drove down and easily found the shop. Dead Z's everywhere you looked. Kind of exciting (lots of parts) but sad (dead Z's) at the same time. Met Danny and he began to look for suitable replacements. As promised, the air cleaner was easy - he had a shelf full of them. He found a proper choke cable assembly in fairly short order, although the cables themselves were in bad shape. But he gave it to me and told me that between it and the one he sent originally, I should be able to make an early one that was good. The heat shield was tougher, none of the singles on the shelf were intact. So he proceeded to strip one off a recently acquired L24 on the floor of the shop. While he worked getting the heat shield off, Deanna and I wandered around just looking at all the stuff. And just as he predicted, we found something we "had to have." We found dozens of rear hatches leaning against a wall. Looking through them, we quickly found that three were the early hatches with vents that our car should have. The hatch was one of those parts we knew we'd have to find, but would be reluctant to buy sight unseen. So we picked one out and loaded it in the back seat for our trip home. Saturday morning found me moving the Z into the garage for the carb install. I was pretty sure that I had most everything I needed. Shouldn't be more than a "one or two trip" project (meaning trips in the middle of the job to get unforeseen parts). BEFORE Started by pulling the FI fuel pump and restoring the fuel lines near the tank to factory configuration. I had decided that while mounting the new pump up front isn't ideal, would be far cleaner, easier to work with, and much easier to wire. Then I capped off the coolant fittings to the injection manifold, as I won't be using that on the carbs. Stripped out all the wiring and the brain, then finally pulled the whole mess out of the car. THE MESS Started installing new stuff after lunch. Installation went fairly smoothly, only a couple of small bugs. After getting it all physically in place, the last three tasks were: mounting and plumbing the fuel pump; wiring the pump; and rewiring the ignition. Those tasks went well also. It turned out to be a "two trip" job, I finished late Saturday afternoon. AFTER It started rather easily, and runs surprisingly well, considering that the carbs are unchanged from however they were when I unpacked them from the shipping box. It is running rich, but it runs. A short drive showed that yes, it can run smoothly and not miss, so the results are encouraging. There is still much tuning to be done, but the main pieces are in place. Good news and bad news - the tach now works, but it is not accurate, reading quite low. Also, the engine continues to run after turning off the key, so there is still a wiring issue to be dealt with. These two problems are probably related, as the tach is much closer to correct when the engine is running with the ignition turned off. I will also need to shorten the choke cables at some point as well. Lastly, today I swapped the new-old hatch onto the car. It actually fits much better than the one that it had before. I suspect the other one had bent hinge mounts. Plus the color (cream now, originally orange) is much closer to yellow than the blue was. I think the glass will need to be replaced, but this hatch is actually in much better shape than the last one, and is "correct" as well.
  16. ZCON is still a go as far as I know. Chris Karl posted a few times on Facebook this past weekend when he and some of his ZCON team were in Nashville locking things down. Not exactly sure how they are going to deal with the big crowds, especially at the opening and closing banquets, but I understand they have a plan. If I hear anything else I'll try and provide an update here. Mike.
  17. I've recently been through the wringer on mechanical fuel pumps. I LOVE the stock mechanical pumps and dearly wish to be able to use them more. Silent, plenty of volume to run triples etc up to 250 hp (my educated guess). Stock new pumps put out a CRAP load of volume even at cranking speeds. The cheap "offshore" GMB and Spectra fuel pumps that are out there that look like the stock Nikki/Ampco/Kyosan Densi pumps have been reported here and elsewhere are a ticket to very early failure. I can further attest to this experience. Had a fresh GMB make it about 10 km before leaving a customer/friend stranded. So after much investigation of the issue, I have good news. 1. The GMB and more expensive Spectra are identical inside. The diaphragm and check valves are visually and texturally identical. Might as well buy the GMB ($18.72 CAD on Rock Auto) 2. The problem is with the check valves. The design of the flapper is weak and shitty. The diaphragms are thick and strong and seem fine. The failure is that they stop (or barely start ) being able to pull fuel from the tank. Any air gets in there and they loose prime. If you actuate the pump by hand on the bench in a vise with your finger over the intake, you can barely feel any suction. Do that with OEM pump and it will suck the skin off your finger tip. (Air intake only, no liquid). Now the really good news happens when you want to rebuild your old OEM Pump. Up till now it's been tough to find rebuild parts. I took apart about 20 OEM pumps (all three brands, 14 Z and 6 510 ) and noticed the following. 1. Diaphragms; Depending on age and use, some were fine, some were hard and/or cracked. No surprise. About 40/60 good/bad. 2. Upper diaphragm. Not even sure what the function is of the upper rubber diaphragm, but 100% were soft and reusable. Don't think they endure much hardship. Maybe one was a little stiffer than the others. I'm sure we could fill an long thread discussing what its for.... Please don't here. 3. Check Valves. The real surprise. 100% of them were 100% perfect and appeared nearly brand new. All were clean, no sign of crud buildup or damage or erosion/corrosion. These things are indestructible apparently and totally un-affected by fuel or time. 4. Lower seals. Where the rod passes through to the actuator. About 4 out of the 20 were still soft and usable. Lots of splits and hardness. Ok, knowing what we know about the new copies (GMB and Spectra) and the old faithfuls, and what's wrong and right about both species, is anyone seeing the possibilities here?
  18. I am always averse to changing an engineer's decision unless I know everything that went into the taking of that decision. The problem is usually understanding all the loads and in this case, knowing how the spindle was specified, metallurgically. If one were to remove the head and threaded end of the 5/8 bolt, they'd have a pin. Could be a pin for a shear application, as most pins are. It's fair to say, I think, that the failure mode for the spindle pin would be a double shear, or maybe a single shear with a moment. Exactly the kind of loads pins are made for. You can select the grade of that bolt/pin, 3, 5, 8, etc., and if you know the strength of the spindle pin, can do so to match. Other than that you have to rely on anecdotal evidence, and the problem with that is you never know all the facts such as static loads, impact forces, installation details, etc. that the part has experienced. My favorite example. Please bear with me a moment: We used to ship very expensive equipment upright, which meant it had to go by 747 freighter, which was expensive. Manufacturing wanted to ship it on its back, something it was never designed for. So one day they laid one on its back and shipped it somewhere and back again. It came back fine (looking) and so they declared the equipment could now be shipped flat, since they'd proven it worked. Scary. I believe we've all done things where we thought this will probably work, and it did! Does that mean it's a good idea? You'll never know. All you can say is, "Well, it hasn't failed yet." Purely for the fun of it, I am making new pins on the lathe. I too will be holding my breath for the first few miles. 😬
  19. Well I hadn't thought much about a sales prospect, but I didn't hate making these. However, I didn't make the internal threads yet* as I did not have the correct tooling. I've got that tooling (special taps) on order and if that tapping process doesn't turn out to be a disaster, then I could probably be convinced to make a couple for sale if people need. Of course, that tapping process (especially in stainless) could still turn out to be a disaster. I'll let you know after the taps arrive. * The astute viewer might ask "Then how does it look like your brass tip is threaded onto the antenna in your pic???" The answer is... I drilled it out so it just slips over the threads. Proof of concept for outside shape only. I'm not really worried about tapping brass. The stainless concerns me more.
  20. So @Zup, I got your chewed up (what used to be an) antenna tip Perfect for my experiments. The first thing I can tell you is that it's chrome plated brass, not stainless. And I expect this to be the case for those antennas on ebay. Why is that important? Couple reasons: First, it means the prospect of buying something similar off ebay and taking a dremel to it isn't going to work unless you plan to send it out for new chrome plating afterwards. Second, it means that the "color" is different than stainless. Now unless you think some judge at a concourse show is going to dock you points for having a stainless antenna tip instead of chrome plated........ With all that said, it was tropical storming today and I had some time in the shop. Here's some pics: I had some other antenna here from a later year that I could mess with too: I made two proof of concept tips. One brass, and one stainless: The stainless would look better if I polished it. I didn't bother with that. Would still look different than chrome plating, but closer.
  21. Hey Capt. Obvious, Just finished pressing the rear control arm bushings a few minutes ago and wanted to say thanks for passing that info along 2 weeks ago. They went in perfectly and are spaced exactly for a nice press fit in the strut housing. Definitely would not want to back em out and do it twice. Thanks again!! . . . Andy
  22. There are a couple elements that need to be distinctly identified. a) the compressed fiber door panel and b) the vinyl covering. I take it that you are talking about the holes in vinyl covering - Y/N? The difference between the later left side door panel - on the Left Hand or Right Hand Drive models - was the pre-cut holes in the vinyl. (see picture below). As far as I can remember - the original early fiber door panels for the Left Hand Drive Z’s did not have the holes in the fiber door panel backing necessary to mount the Passenger Assist Straps on the Drivers Door. That was changed some time later. Will see if I can find or get some pictures. My guess related to why the Passenger Assist Strap is on the subject $77K example - The Seller said it was a 10 year project - he most likely ordered the correct part number for the Left Hand Drive model, but received a replacement meant for use on a Right Hand Drive model. On these the black vinyl had holes pre-cut for the Pass.Asst.Strap - and the only way to cover it was to install the Strap. This happened to several of us back in the late 90’s and early 2000’s. When i received the wrong panels - I notified Courtesy Nissan and they replaced them for me with the correct parts.
  23. Sorry dutchzcarguy.....you are “the man” Site is “the boy”! Same for you Alan....makes sense.....my door card was meant for a “right hand drive” Z. What I get for not reading the whole thread. I stand corrected!
  24. SH30-H & DougN you've hit the nail squarely on the head. I have a lot to say about that book, and some back story, but don't have a lot of time in the am so I'll have to chime in this evening. Cheers
  25. I vote for original paint and fix the dings. It's identical to my first Z. Sigh.
  26. There's no 'maybe' necessary here. They did. Notwithstanding all the "Made For The USA" propaganda, evidence is all over these cars that they were conceived, designed and engineered as a series of models, accommodating several different markets and both LHD and RHD configurations. And a very good job they made of it too...
  27. I run OEM studs . I’ve used the SS stud kit from ZCD - I believe - also . I have also used there copper flanged nuts - and they do stay tight . Tight enough to bring the stud out sometimes . But no washers to fiddle with .
  28. I couldn’t find this via a search so I thought I would share my findings the thread size for the fitting that leaves the turbo oil t-block (originally hardline to the turbo) is: m12x1.0 I used a m12x1.0 to -4an adapter and works perfect for my turbo oil feed line. cheers!
  29. @w3wilkes @madkawThanks for your feedback. It is just from wich perspective you look at it. We restore several 1969 production US cars and European cars, These cars come with tanks that have the connections like the tanks we produce. Also the cars produced for the Japanese market (including the Z432), the UK , Australia and the rest of the world came in this configuraton (without the vapor connections) A lot of people I know in the US said that this configuration would fit them also, because they delete the vapor system. For the US market cars we restore to a "as it left the factory"level, after the tanks are produced, we simply ad the connections and we have the tank the car came with when new. Till now most orders came from the US, but also Japan (for a Z432) and the rest of the world. I have a 1970 919 color 240Z I use as a daly driver, and this car I run with triple Mikuni's so I don't need the emission and vapor stuff at all on this car.
  30. In the 2 or 3 I've done so far, the amount of suction is spectabulus (yes I invented a word, no beer involved) so there is no problem with getting fuel from tank with an air filled line. Only time will tell about real world performance and life. The only thing I screwed up was getting the check valves in the right way the first time. And maybe the second....
  31. The last "gotcha" is the tiny thin seal washer between the check valve and its seat in the housing. I was able to remove virtually NONE of the OEM ones. They were hard and stiff and stuck in real well. They were easy to scrap out, but were always destroyed in the process. So you may need to source or make some new ones. 3/4 OD (19mm) and about 18mm ID. Only about 0.05 thickness. A tiny ring of RTV would do as well.... You want that check valve sealed to the housings. NO LEAKS ALLOWED around the check valves.
  32. First thing to say about the "details" is that all the OEM pumps I took apart and scavenged parts from are identical as far as the location and size of the bolt circle that bolts the main body halves together and the top cap in place. So you can interchange just about any part with any part from any brand. The GMB and Spectra ALSO use the same bolt patterns. So you can interchange their bits with the OEM bits. There are small gotcha's here. Some of the upper caps are not interchangeable across all brands as the divider wall in the center is not in the same clocking with the bolt pattern. All you have to do is use a matching cover and middle housing from any one brand. Next is a small annoyance that the way the check valves are held into the middle housings is VERY different with the GMB/Spectra. Cheaper and crappier of course. They use a 4 point punch around the perimiter to trap the check valves into the housing. Hard to get them out, and if you did, you couldn't get your OEM check valves to stay in as you'd have a heck of a time re-punching around the edge to keep them tight and in place. Pictures coming. SO,. It actually makes sense to use the check valve housing and its matching cap from your old OEM pump and bolt it to the GMB/Spectra base housing. Keep all the good bits together. It does mean you have to do so sort of clean up of your OEM castings to match the new GMB castings if you care about that stuff
  33. What you do, is go buy the $19 GMB, replace its check valves with your old perfectly good OEM ones, and put that hybrid baby back in the car for millions of additional miles and smiles. (Please put the GMB check valves on the cement floor and crush them into dust with a large hammer, lest you get tempted to use them at a later date. Don't) You get a new diaphragm, new lower seal, your perfectly good check valves, and the new GMB upper diaphragm that all make up a nearly new unit, and should run for a few years pump. Ok, all is not perfect here, there are a couple of details you need to deal with, but its all manageable. I'll explain in a but once I take some pictures. I guess the risk is that the GMB diaphragm material will fail faster than the OEM (or the new Nikki ones you get with Nikki pumps for non Z's to steal their internals from, remember that thread?) that is still to be seen, but all in all, maybe we have a cheaper route to rebuilt pumps here.
  34. That is very sad news. He really enjoyed coming to the US for ZCON. I was talking with Eiji Hosami prior to Matsuosan's tech talk at ZCON 2018. Eiji told me that over in Japan, Matsuosan is just another grandfather, but when he comes over here, he is a rock star.
  35. 18 Jan 2012 - Epilog My former 240Z was picked up by the transport company on 31 October 2011. It was crated and staged in Long Beach, California until 30 November 2011, when it sailed for Norway. It was unloaded in Oslo on 9 January 2012, and picked up by its new owner on 11 January 2012. Congratulations, Terje! You've got a nice car, and I'm confident that it will lead a pampered life from here on.
  36. Yes he came across an old vice and liberated the handle and screw, the lube on this unit uses CV joint lube, slippery.
  37. That is not the original pivot ball. Looks like one out of the RB engined cars, Skyline R32 etc. P/N:30537-RS581 Yours should look like this. The pivot you have is correct. Part number: 30537-21010 You should measure 26mm from shoulder to top of ball. Btw: If you want to buy that pivot ball, you could try this to compensate for not reaching the 91mm measurement. You can use a couple of ID: 10mm washers on the pivot ball thread to extend the pivot ball. That and a spacer ring behind the thrust bearing to increase the length of the collar/throw out bearing combination. To do the thrust bearing you will need to remove the bearing and machine a ring. This is fixing symtoms, not what is causing them, but it could get you on your way. In the last two photos are my spare fork, throwout bearing and pivot out of a 300ZX. The throw out bearing/collar measure 42mm. That would mean a pressure plate on the bench would need to be 50mm. The 300ZX plus a lot of other datsuns/nissans with the F*71A B C transmissions use the same pivot ball.
  38. Thanks Alan for the kind words, and to reinforce, this about the CSP311 is just un-researched waffle. Just more lazy "research", done in a few minutes. It took me months and months of transcribing kanji and translating, and cross referencing, (as well as what was written in English) to put the Silvia history together. Why didn't they get in touch....?
  39. I wanted to post my initial settings here that gets the car running pretty well. I am going to try moving fuel to -8 for accel because it’s getting about 8.8 AFR on wide open throttle. Although not sure if will learn that it needs less automatically over time or not. On EFI computer System base fuel pressure; 40psi injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, 0 for cranking, 0 for cold start AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot idle set to 800 rpm Engine size 171 rev limit 6000 Throttle body “other” Injector count 6 On Car -I set Fuel Pressure to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle, I have aeromotive FPR might not apply if you have stock system. -I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body. -I set my TPS to about .3 volts set this by adjusting the TPS sensor bracket verify this in the handheld display. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. Yeah, I think someone missed a detail somewhere. Everything about the whole situation would make much more sense for the bushing to be symmetric. Assembly process would be foolproof because you wouldn't need to pay any attention to which direction it went in. and the documentation wouldn't have to mention anything about it because it just didn't matter. On the prototyping floor... "Hey Boss. I'm putting these bushings in and when I do that, I can't get the strut casting in between them. What are we going to do?" Boss says : "Hmmm... I'll let engineering know." Engineering says : " Oops. We'll need to either:" a) Change the strut housing design to reduce the width. b) Change the rear control arms to increase the span between the bushings. c) Change the bushing so things fit together without interference. And "changing the bushing is way cheapest and easiest to change, so lets do that." Draftsman/Designer says : "I can't shorten the outsides of the bushings because we need that length for the rubber washers. Should we eliminate the rubber washers and make the bushings symmetric, or should we make the bushings asymmetric and keep the washers?" Lead Engineer says : "Crap (in Japanese). I really want to keep those washers. Make the bushings asymmetric and make sure you let documentation know about the change because they'll have to describe how to put the bushings in correctly!" And that last part never happened. I wasn't there for any of it, but that's how I see the whole thing.
  41. The spray glue curled it a bit but it flattened out as it dried. The panels look flat now. Getting the thicker single layer foam was almost impossible locally and I didn’t want to wait a month for it to be shipped online. Upholstery shops in the next city wanted $100 a roll for foam.... nope.
  42. Sorry... One more thing while I'm in here. The rubber fuel line in this pic doesn't look right to me. Looks kinked. Is that just a trick of the camera angle?
  43. Well the buyer can back out but he will loose his privilege of bidding on BaT for future auctions and will probably still be charged the 5% commission he owes BaT. After that deal is dead BaT will reach out to the second bidder to see if he is still interested.
  44. I'm sure the Round-Up was on the same shelf, Zantac and baby powder too. I was working in a paint store back in the 90's when the EPA cops came in and took all of our wood preservative Creosote off the shelf, put them in their car and drove away. The owner came in later that day and was pissed to put it mildly. Told me they weren't EPA, they were thieves in broad daylight and did I actually read their badge. He was mad at me! Our refrigeration guy claims he has a drop in for the older walk-ins with R-12. It's in a pink bottle, 401 something I think he said. I'm going to try it someday in my 280 with factory a/c. We have about 212 percent humidity today and that drains my old arse out faster than a hangover.
  45. My, we have a lot of criticisms here. I appreciate the clarity. I did my research with the help of Nissan's library and lots of interviews. If there are issues, I am taking notes. Yes, the Datsun Z432 name was an error, but I think "15 years of mistakes" is a bit harsh, HS30-H. Write your own book, then.
  46. Well, I hope this isn’t the case but “hope” has never been a course of action that produces results. Life is beginning to return to more normal where I live. People have come to the conclusion, right or wrong that this “destroy the economy” cure is worse than the disease. We’ve had 3 deaths in my county and all were in their late 70’s and 80’s and had other morbidity issues. We had 24 cases total and everyone else but 4 have recovered completely. People’s lives are at risk from loss of income. We had 9 beach drownings last year, 3x Covid-19 deaths and we didn’t close the city and county and people didn’t loose their jobs and businesses. People are demanding the state open back up. Sorry, this post is probably for the Covid-19 thread which I have stopped following. How many lives is our $20 Billion economy worth? It’s a morbid thought but it’s real. I’ve done several aviation mishap investigations and the airlines put a $$ on you’re life. Most deaths in airline accidents are due to smoke inhalation but to put non-toxic materials in the interior of passenger jets is too expensive. They chose to spend less knowing it will mean more lost lives. I’m an optimist and I’m planning for success. Humanity can do incredible things when pushed to the brink. A breakthrough is possible. I’m plan on going to ZCon until we are closer to Sept. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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