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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/2025 in all areas

  1. Are you kidding? This place is full of nuts.
  2. I got it running and driving back in May. Finally got it insured and new tags in June then took it down the street to fill it with gas. Today was the first day I really got it out and drove it...in all about 55 miles. She needs some tweaking to run better still though it was still really nice to be able to drive her again. This short video is in after I got back home. 20250726_125928.mp4
  3. It seems that's what you've been doing for the last decade and really aren't any closer to a solution than you were when you first recognized the problems. Unless you have a strong emotional tie to your Z, I suggest moving on to another car that you can enjoy driving with confidence that it will run well and get you where you want to go and back home. Just a suggestion that could make your life less complicated and more enjoyable. I once had a '74 Porsche that I never drove farther from home than I cared to walk back. I knew several AAA tow truck drivers by their first names. I was happy and relieved to finally sell it and eventually bought another that I've owned for 32 years.
  4. This is the lastest version with the stainless steel stub plate and spring clip. eBay UK240z Datsun Series 1 1972 1/2 Fuse Cover / Ash Tray s/ste...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. Spring...
  5. So it's been awhile since I last posted. Remember that aftermarket ECU? I found out it was bad and causing starting issues and the high idle condition. I happened to find an original replacement ECU from another 1976 2+2 and that solved my problem. I also found that the TPS was missing a screw and out of position on the throttle body. As it turns out, the missing screw had broken off inside the throttle body. I was able to source a used one and installed it. Everything now seemed to work except for the temperature gauge. This was baffling to me since I had replaced it with a new one when I replaced the thermostat and the housing. However, that one was a two piece unit. I tested the temp gauge and wiring by disconnecting the connection to the sensor, temporarily running a wire from the the connection to ground and turning the key to the on position. The gauge needle moved from resting position to max within a few seconds, eliminating the possibility of a defective gauge or wiring. This was reassuring, since I was not looking forward to having to troubleshoot a wiring issue, nor did I want to have to go and try to find another gauge. So, I purchased a new temperature sensor, this time a one piece unit. I had some free time to install it yesterday, and Voila! I once again have a working temperature gauge. Here's the one that didn't work: Here's the one that worked: And the proof:
  6. 3 points
    Oh I'm here every day, taking it all in 😄
  7. 3 points
    The smart ones hide, sit back and chill. That's why I'm on here everyday, trying to learn something. 😁 Bugging the $^!# out of everybody...
  8. Hi Site……If you shave .080 inches from your P90 head, you’ll have to jack up the cam towers .080 inches too. You use the early 280 valves which are approximately .080 inches longer. With this set up, you don’t need the shorter valve seals……they are used when the L24 head uses a cam with .460 or more lift which would squash those seals. If you decide to do that, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with Eiji at Datsun Spirit…..he has everything you need to build that head. He has a ton of Isky Stage III cams also. If you just send him your head, he’ll build you a piece of art. Nice buy for $25.00.
  9. 2 points
    I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.
  10. 2 points
    He got back to me late last night (my time in CST). For some reason he had not received my previous email and is not getting notifications from this site so was unaware of the tags in this thread as well as the PMs. Thank you all for helping alert him that I was attempting to get in touch with him, this community is great!
  11. 2 points
    If you haven't got money in deal I'd seriously think about MSA ceramic coated headers. I've got 6to1s on both my cars and very pleased after 10 years of running them with MSAs 2.5" aluminum, I think, to the back bumper. They have other configurations but I like the sound and backpressure of the the 6to1. It's loud but only if you chose. Stay out of it until you get away from neighbors and then who gives a flip. It sounds like a Jake break coming down the small mountains of the Appalachians I have close by. If the guy won't talk to you, it's not going to have a wonderful ending no matter what you pay him. Get out while you can.
  12. 2 points
    I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.
  13. 2 points
    Arguing with your machinist is worse than arguing with you doctor, he's always right no matter if he's wrong.
  14. Aside from replacing a part that meets Nissan specs, another factor to consider might be that used Nissan is probably better than new aftermarket.
  15. 2 points
    47 thumbs up for precision shims in Auzzie land. Flat and recessed bottoms.
  16. Hi Gav, I've designed, make and sell them. They are my design, based in the UK and I ship them internationally. My ebay store katodfa on eBaykatodfa on eBayFollow katodfa on eBay. Buying, Selling, Collecting on eBay has never been more exciting!
  17. It says on BAT and other places...🤣 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4161254077491653/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
  18. Fun to see how the person who did the floor 'repairs' neglected to remove the original set of rubber floor mats before getting busy with the welder ('Hey! What's that smell?') The photo of the dog leg area, taken from the rear wheel housing looking forward, is a sad comment on the lack of effectiveness of the Ziebart rustproofing in this critical area. The seller's photo essay is missing any pictures of the front frame rails. I suspect that this Z is going to need a lot more than just installing a replacement dash!
  19. OK, the geniuses @ the Nissan US marketing Dept. came up with a brilliant plan to keep the motoring public's mind on the new Z car still in the incubation stage; we'll restore a bunch of old Z cars and sell them for cheap. They spend a ton on advertising but not too much so there's still a bit of mystery/speculation to the operation. They buy, at great expense, more than they originally thought it would cost, 200ish old Zs. Next they send one of their minions - now the company president - down to the parts dept to get the ball rolling. The guy behind the counter listens to the plan with growing amusement before telling Mr. Minion that there just isn't enough quantity to make his bosses plan work for 10 Zs let alone 200! Minion now worries about how he'll break the news to his boss and still keep his job. Of course an automobile manufacturer can't/won't resume production or ask one of their closely held - forgot the Japanese word - suppliers to resume production for a quantity below 0k say 5000 units of anything. At the time I found it interesting that they wanted me to reproduce and supply parts A-D but weren't interested in already available reproduced parts E-H. Note the nasty-looking washer bottles on the Z Store cars. I learned later that Nissan US had broken the restoration process down to individual operations and had decided that each operation/step of the process would have a max dollar amount assigned to each operation. Don't know if this is old ground but there was NO effort, none, to keep engines and transmissions with the cars from which they came. They had my reproduction ID plates so any # could be stamped.
  20. Still don't know what's wrong with it? ;-) Every (good) carparts shop has them!
  21. That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.
  22. I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!
  23. I have an l26 block, and the header fits no problem at all, even with SU heat shield and return springs. I also have the slightly older exhaust sectiom as I bought the header and exhaust at separate times, and it clears the R200 in my car as well. It is an expensive and awesome exhaust. I like it almost as much as the new S30 World door seals which I find myself wandering into my garage to simply open and close the doors to my absolute satisfaction!
  24. 1 point
    I think you used a old or older adress, that he does not check every day! go to: www.z-services.eu/en/ and you can see all he sells! ALSO.. he says on his site: Lastly, we are currently experiencing issues with the email address contact@z-services.eu. If you have not received a reply to your messages, please contact us at info@z-services.eu instead.
  25. 1 point
    Whatever you're writing in your messages must be something he's avoiding. You seem reasonable and rational on this forum. Any reason he would be avoiding you? Not a good look for him if there's no good reason. Maybe your messages aren't getting through. Never know. This should bring him directly to this thread. Good luck. @Sean Dezart
  26. Those run through the manifolds to warm up a cold set of carbs. They circulate coolant through the bypass lines on the passenger's side and then the thermostat housing. I think they are a potential leak waiting to happen so I have mine disconnected. It's plenty warm in Alabama so they add unnecessary heat through my manifolds. The bigger one near the windshield is actually a thermostat that closes the flow off when it gets to a certain temp and you're right about the front nipple, it goes to the thermostat housing. Here's a bunch of threads about it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTMwNTQ5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  27. Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with silver ring insert, tray silver inserts, lid pins. Ideal if you want to remove and store your original away from the car and have a visual reproduction in place. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167546076628
  28. As requested i will put a sensible club discount in place for anyone that wants one. Contact me on 00447931333474 or here.
  29. 1 point
    @TexasZr I recently have been in contact with Sean. He was very responsive. seanz@wanadoo.fr Steve
  30. 1 point
    @jonbill Where have you been friend?
  31. 1 point
    Also should note that it's called several different things around the internet. Valve guide, Guide - Rocker Valve, lash pad. Might help for searching. The part number works well though.
  32. 1 point
    Here's some stuff. Not sure if they're showing the -Y7000 pads (Replaced By:) or the original part number. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/camshaft-valve-mechanism/25 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-valve-guide~13218-a3501.html
  33. 1 point
    I think the flat bottom ones are for grinding down? They sent me .190 with my cam kit. I thinks that's a little thick and they say it's all they have. Won't know for sure until I use them so...probably never. 🤣🤣
  34. 1 point
    https://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted
  35. Have you read the story of Tommy Iommi cutting off the tips of his fingers on his fretboard hand? The things he did and how it affected his guitar style supposedly was the first time anybody did that low eerie sound like Sabbath had. Ozzy was the godfather of heavy metal singing and Iommi was the godfather of heavy metal guitar. Pretty good read when you get a minute. LoudwireThe Horrific Accident That Created Heavy MetalWho needs fingertips when you've got riffs?
  36. Might as well do the whole album. Had it on cassette (high tech for cars!) back in high school. Did not help my studies...
  37. I've been playing around with the free AI the last week as it's scorching hot down here and everywhere else too. Anyway it's pretty neat plugging in numbers and seeing the supposed results. My main goal is to eventually figure out my P90 head I bought for $25, yeah that's right twenty five dollars 😁, hopefully what valve length and lash pads I'll use and how much to cut for the Schneider cam kit I bought many years ago. I don't think it's my cam though, just a core I sent in but it has high lift so I'll be using the Viton Ford valve seal as the OEs would get squished. @Diseazd has given me some advice also to go along with the P79 and P90 modifications Datsun garage provides. https://datsunzgarage.us/p90/
  38. @Route66 They aren’t repos, they are awesome fenders, just 280 fenders. Very modest modification needed for perfect fit. You’ll need a body guy with a welder to move the little clip for the inspection panel to snap in……an easy job, and once you bolt it up, a slight mod to get the seams perfect……all zero sweat. @zspert is the expert to comment on the mods…..you can see the perfect result on my 71.
  39. Nice Zed, it's a famous number often played, this one is also a good choice... OZZY OSBOURNE - "Mama, I'm Coming Home" (Official Video) - YouTube
  40. @Nils Ya, when you press the switch it's supposed to flip into the other position. It sounds like you have a similar issue to what I had originally: I could depress the toggle, it would temporarily switch to the other side, but once I released the switch it would reset back to the original position. Yours sounds a little worse as it isn't even able to temporarily switch. I forget which colors correspond to which, but power comes in through the center connection, and then goes out through the connections on the left or right - one for high beam, one for low beam. Ie, we'll just call the connections 1, 2, and 3, with 1 being high, 2 being the center, and 3 being low. 1-2 would trigger high beams, and 2-3 would trigger low beams. You can test that with continuity. You should never have continuity between 1 and 3. @fredrick that's a spring and a brass cap. It sits in a circular opening in a rocker inside the actual switch housing. The piece is held into the plastic via a roll-pin and is the only part I didn't remove when disassembling the whole thing (I didn't think there was a chance I get it out without it breaking. It's the second picture in the first post This whole setup is quite finicky and I've thought a few times about trying to engineer some kind of replacement, but not sure if the interest would justify it.
  41. As part of the 4th of July celebrations I am offering a sensible discount to any of the reproductions I make- make a sensible offer A link to my ebay store https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/katodfa
  42. eBay UK240z Datsun Series 1 1972 1/2 Fuse Cover / Ash Tray s/ste...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. Ideal i...S/Steel snuffer plate installed
  43. Wow, very nice production and a small necessary detail for proper restorations. Thank you !
  44. I hope you have better luck than I did getting that elbow out of the head. Mine wouldn't budge! Damn near warped the head before I gave up. I didn't use heat though because of the rubber valve seals nearby.
  45. I ended up using three of the 3/4" PEX 90 degree elbows and one uni-coil for the 5/8" ID tank vent line going to the vapor reservoir. Two elbows for the 180 degree loop, and one elbow for where the hose turns from the back panel to the quarter panel towards the vapor reservoir. I used a uni-coil on that hose to prevent it from kinking where the hose first comes up into the cabin and then runs sideways along the back panel. I used two more uni-coils for the filler vent hose makes a 180 degree turn to connect the filler to the reservoir. I purchased the 3/4" PEX elbows from my local Lowes store, and I bought the uni-coils online from BelMetric.com (part # RHBEND23.6). Here are some pictures of my installation. 
  46. I have a '73 with an auto and wondered the same thing . Acording to my trasmission man and several others the openion is that they are bullet proof . The fiest thing I was going to do when I bought my Z was pull the auto and go with a 5 speed. I have driven the car three years and have decided to no way , change. I have insted dropped in a moderatly built '82ZX engine. I personally like the auto tranny. Gary
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