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  1. I took the Z for a test drive and I am really happy with the results. The car still handles well but now it actually has rear suspension travel so it rides nicer but is still on the firm side. Visually, I think it looks 100x better. The sunken rear suspension just let the car down and now it looks like the wheels fit the car and have some room to breathe. Below are some before and after pictures. What do you guys think?
  2. Our local club had a car show / get together last Saturday at Superior Nissan which is one of our sponsors. We managed to field 21 cars, a radio station did a remote from there, lots of people stopped by. All models were represented except for a zx, even a Scarab. Zup went home with a medallion, but it wasn't gold... Started off cold but warmed up by noon & turned into a fun day. Plans are to do it again in the spring.
  3. Please refer to my response from when you asked the same question a few weeks ago. Deja Vu all over, again. Dennis
  4. The "strong noise" is likely worn shoes. Pull the drums.
  5. No only if you use it on mondays and fridays you need the upgrade Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. A little more time in the shop tonight. Finished the hood primer and half of the hatch! One fender and the outer side of the hatch left!
  7. Next up was the struts. With the half-shafts removed and brake hose disconnected it was just a matter of dropping it down and swinging it out. No surprise, the strut cartridge was shot. When it came time to remove it, no surprise that it was stuck in place. No surprise = No problem. I needed to make a handle of some sort to pull it out. Using a piece of scrap angled steel I drilled a hole in the middle, bolted it to the the strut and with a few hits of the mini sledge on the bottom it happily saw things my way. I had some Tokico struts and springs for a 280z that a fellow Z owner traded me for lunch at Torchy's Tacos. I already had some correct KYB rear strut cartridges but compared the rear springs and figured I would give them a shot. They are about 3/4 of a coil longer than the ST springs that were on the car. If this did not work I also had some 280z rear strut mounts that I could try as well. The ST springs did not have to be compressed to remove them but I did have to compress the Tokico springs a little which to me was a good sign. Reassembly was straight forward with no drama. The driver side received the same treatment as its strut cartridge was dead as well.
  8. Hi All, Thanks for the post. I will save this in case I ever need to replace, but I might have gotten lucky. I'm a 240 newbie who just bought a very nice '73 original that had been sitting for 22 years in a garage. Of the many things that needed replacing, the choke cable was stuck. It would move with pliers and generally not in bad shape with the original expanding rubber gaskets still in good shape/ My mechanic didn't offer much except to replace it. Zcarsource has a rebuild program for 150, but after some poking around the net, I decided to try PJ1 cable lube. The cable was out of the car so I could let gravity help. Squirted PJ1 in the loop-end and within a couple minutes it was sliding by hand.
  9. Linkage: https://zcarsource.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=linkage If you run higher fuel pressure, the fuel will push the floats down, and you will get too much fuel in the fuel bowls. That's a bad thing.
  10. The part in question is the cold start valve but, that may not be leaking. From what I can tell in the pic the fuel hose is wet. So it can be the culprit. Try tightening the hose clamp and see if that takes care of it. If not replace it with the proper EFI rated fuel hose. And if that isn't it, it'll more than likely be the CSV Could also be the result of hard "cold" start ups depending on how much fuel is actually leaking out.
  11. 1 point
    I did this modification in July 2014, it's now November 2015 and it's still running strong. The modification is totally concealed in the TIU so the original harness is unchanged. To revert back to original is simple as changing the TIU. The instruction is based on a 1977 280Z, but it can also be used for the 1978 280Z TIU with the terminal block connector. You will need to cut the metal strips that connect the terminals in the terminal block to the circuits. Be sure to leave enough to solder the wires. The terminal block can be fitted, using the original screws, to the aluminium base plates. See link to the files area where you can download: Regards Chas This post has been promoted to an article
  12. As Patcon said, minimal. I ended up buying a new driver side fender from Nissan (which fits good) a few years ago and then tried to reuse the passenger side. It was too far off to mount properly without a lot of cutting and welding around the headlight bucket, so luckily another used fender appeared courtesy of @ConVerTT and I was able to get it to fit very well. It is a Taiwanese re-stamp. New ones vary in the width of the bowing out from the centre line it seems and can be massaged back into line. I find that all panels need some sort of massaging....
  13. Sure thing, here's two images. I'll take a closer look at your image and compare, but first glance looks ok? And yes, mine is a '78, hopefully plumbed up like one.
  14. I think it would be a good idea to take a pic of the driver's side of your motor and post it. It's amazing what will "jump out" at these guys if it's wrong. I'm mainly wanting to see how your AAR hoses are routed. In '78 Nissan changed it around to keep some gunk out of the Auxiliary Air Regulator like this picture. That thing keeps the idle high until it warms up then closes off the extra air and then the idle drops. Here's a shot of the bullet connectors that get plugged up wrong a lot of times too. Welcome to the forum! You won't find a nicer or more helpful group.
  15. I sent you a couple PMs too. I'm also interested in the Fairlady Z. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
  16. I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it. That way I am hard lines under the car. I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line. Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs. Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric. So that should give me a good amount more flow. Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it. My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out. So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot. Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.
  17. Trust me, the wheel does not move out. The rotor bolts to the back side of the hub rather than the front of the hub, so the spacer has zero effect on the hub face. It simply positions the rotor. There are about a thousand google images online showing the upgrade. EDIT: Here is a link to one of the many conversion kits. Scroll through the pics where you can clearly see where the spacer goes. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/brake-upgrades/front-big-brake-kit-stage-4
  18. Wheel fitment is tricky. I have a set of 14" wheels that fit fine with the vented Toyota setup and yet other 14" or even 15" wheels do not fit. It all depends on the shape of the face/spokes of the wheel. I found that 15x7 ET zero Konig Rewinds will clear front vented Toyota calipers as well as Mustang GT500 rear calipers. Discount Tire Direct sells them at a very reasonable price and has sales a few times per year with a $100 rebate. I bought mine a few years ago for $360/set delivered after rebate.
  19. So here’s what I did . I guess I slept since then and couldn’t remember , but easy to see with an empty bay. Looks like I used the original supply line as my return since I ran a new 3/8” supply. A 1/4” line would be quite a bit bigger and would probably work.
  20. Looks like the car is sitting just right! Nice job on the diff and suspension.
  21. With everything checked out I spent some time cleaning everything up and painting it. A fresh cover gasket was installed with a light smear of black RTV. I used Red Line fluid that is designed for use in LSD differentials. Been using Red Line for years with nothing but great results.
  22. Sell the 4 barrel setup and use that money to finish the SU's. They are a better setup over all, unless you are very good at tuning 4 barrel carbs
  23. Here's one the first items to be removed, the dealer installed rub strips. They were attached with a combination of sheet metal screws for some and pop rivets for others. They definitely wont be going back on. Thinking green, I was able to re-purpose them...
  24. The reverse switch is the brass object near the middle bottom.
  25. Zup, we (Motorman7 with my '73) also got dinged a point for the bead blasted valve cover. However, in looking at your judging sheets, my calculator says you achieved 290 points, which is the level ("290 or above") for the Gold Medallion status. From the current ZCCA Judging Manual " All vehicles scoring a total overall score of two hundred and ninety (290) points or above in their respective class (except Daily Driver) are eligible to receive the Gold Medallion or Gold Cup achievement award of excellence for their efforts." I know they did not announce that for you at ZCON, but have you received that since? I hope so, you deserve it!
  26. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=MOalXeK-IIec_Qacxq-gBA&q=240z+su+carb+diagram+&oq=240z+su+carb+diagram+&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.3..33i22i29i30.5004.17168..18230...0.0..0.159.2435.3j17......0....1.......8..41j41i299j41i10j41i13i275j41i10i299j0j46j0i131j0i22i30j33i299j33i160.P2aVneooU_0
  27. Oct 1969..... first Z's coming to North America... first the test team!
  28. This happened: This is all single stage. The exterior will be two stage.
  29. Take a lot of pictures as your take it apart. Don't force the old bolts, they'll snap in a heartbeat. 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. A quart of each will last forever. Buy a spray bottle and mix it as you need to. When you ziploc bag stuff write what it is on a piece of paper, not on the baggie. It'll rub off. Get some thin cheap wire, phone wire for me, and use it to tie bolts into their part. I'll try and add if I can. You're about to have some fun finally. AND the engine stand rotates a lot easier if you take the weight off the front, rope from the ceiling or a floorjack with a stick of wood. Be really careful though, they'll slide out on your foot! The wire I'm talking about is to keep the different length bolts in the right holes. The water pump, front cover, oil pump... Buy a gallon of lacquer thinner, $10, put it in a five gallon bucket with a tight lid. You'll soak a lot of stuff in that then blow the crud off easier trust me.
  30. 1 point
    Just for grins, I'll summarize the process of removing the dash in case it helps anyone else, having done this around six times on my 1983 280ZX: 1) Remove left and right foot well trim panels under dash (2 screws each) 2) Remove radio console (one screw holds the triangular trim piece on each side, then 4 bolts on each side; you may not have to remove wire harnesses if there's enough slack to sit the panel on the passenger floorboards) 3) Disconnect various-colored wiring harnesses on passenger side firewall. 4) Remove two large factory cable ties next to wiring harnesses; these retain the harnesses to the dash frame (these are re-usable; release the ties by pressing on the small tab on the upper side between the tail end and the metal frame, then push the tail end back out of the tie) 4) Remove the steering wheel shroud, then with a punch lightly mark the steering wheel relative to the steering shaft so you can re-install the wheel centered during re-assembly. Remove the steering wheel. I have heard that some have removed the dash without pulling the steering wheel, but I can't imagine how they did it. It's worth doing it right. 5) Loosen one screw on the right side of the turn signal assy to release the clamp holding the turn signal assy on the steering column. Disconnect wiring harnesses and slide turn signal assy forward off the shaft - it can dangle. 6) Reach under dash on the right/passenger side of the steering column and disconnect speedometer cable near the firewall (this is easy to forget) 7) Remove cosmetic plugs over four screws on top of dash - try to preserve them, they're hard to find. 😎 Remove the 8 main dashboard screws/bolts: four screws across top of dash, four bolts on bottom side of dash (two of the bottom bolts are hidden by the radio console until you remove it) 9) Remove five screws holding the center dash vent trim in place; remove center trim panel, now remove two screws holding the heat/AC control box to the dash frame. (This is really easy to miss.)You may now remove the dash. Try not to scrape it on the A-pillar trim too much; you may tape over the A-pillar trim to minimize the potential for scrapes. I find it easiest to pull the passenger side forward first; keep it low so it won't jam the dash in place. Re-installation is the reverse; right after you set the dash back in place, don't forget to check the position of the speedo cable and re-connect it. A common problem is that the cable gets routed down the left side of the steering column and can't be connected, which requires pulling the dash again. Try and avoid this.
  31. Thanks for all of the input, we actually have 3 other 240Z's 1 1970 and 2 71's. I ahve pics of two of them with one being the white one. I will be looking to sell them as well but doing all of my research to determine proper value for each of them.
  32. Thank you, I have some photos but will need to get it out for the rest of pics.
  33. There are actually many that were brought back. Prices are still high. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58665-1972-fairlady-z-value/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62503-77-fairlady-z-on-craigslist/?tab=comments#comment-579787 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-s30-fairlady-z-right-hand-drive-japan-only/ Please post pics and the rest of the gang here can help you out. There are also experts from UK an Japan here who have great knowledge. @HS30-H @kats@Mike B
  34. I run a 10lb Fidanza flywheel on an OEM clutch. It has stock-like tractability but revs much quicker. The car dynoed at 195whp and 180ftlb, the clutch holds just fine. I run an 8lb flywheel with OEM clutch in my S2000 which made a more notable change in tractability as it doesn't have nearly the low-end torque of the Z. Still much better than the 23-pounder it came with. Both cars are driven in SF Bay Area traffic without issue.
  35. I went with Fidanza flywheel and Exedy clutch and pressure plate for a 280zx Turbo 2+2. Great pedal feel, never slipped under hard use and best of all i have a very revvy motor without slow speed driving issues. It took me 4 hours to do a 1:45 journey to Silverstone in stop/start traffic on Friday. No issues at all. You just have to learn to dial in 500 more rpm when pulling out of junctions but you soon get used to it.
  36. Off to paint jail On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not
  37. I removed the chrome strips when painting and they went back on without any problems
  38. I took the plunge on both front and rear bumpers from these guys. Here is my experience. 1) order placed June 27 2) order shipped July 3 and tracking info received 3) order received in Ontario Canada July 6. I did have to pay $27 duties. The bumpers were packaged well with bubble wrap and some sort of cloth material. I was very happy with the product. Overall the buying experience was good. Responses to all emails were prompt and I was amazed at the turnaround and quick delivery. Installation: It took about 1 hour to remove and replace the front bumper and the fitment was excellent. However, the rear was another story. I had to chase the threads as mentioned by jfa.series1 which is not a big deal. The first attempt at installing did not go well. The bumper was flush to the body at the rear and the ends were flared out over an inch. After 5 or 6 hours of massaging the brackets and installing/removing etc. I finally got a decent gap all the way around. I determined that the initial install was putting too much pressure on the side brackets causing the flare out. Spacing the bumper at least 3/8” off the back using washers was required to get an acceptable fitment at the ends. Here are some pics
  39. I'm declaring success! Here are my before and after pics. I've had the painted bumpers on for 7 years so it's going to be an adjustment to now seeing a bright finish. Overall, the fitment went very well. The arc on the center section is a perfect match with the rear valance. The body mount on the left end was welded a bit rearward but the bracket was easily adjusted. Here are significant things to note: The threaded fittings are all M10-1.5, a more coarse thread than OE. New bolts and nuts are required. The threaded fittings all have paint on them, need to cleaned and chased with tap and die. The carriage bolt kit does not contain lock washers. I'll give the vendor some feedback on that. Next up is installing my JDM front bumper to complete the transition to "Oh, Shiney"!
  40. This afternoon I received the .055 wire (both SS, p/n 9495K91 and carbon steel, p/n 9666K68) that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. Both wire types look to me like they will do the job and measured very close to 0.055" by micrometer. Both wires seem to have about the same spring back capability. That comment is a bit subjective as I just tried to feel the amount of effort it took to bend the wire until it would not flex back to its original state. When I compared the bending effort to do the same test on the original choke wire from my car, it took less effort to bend the wire to the point it would not flex back. I would say that the original choke cable wire has a lower ultimate tensile strength that either of the new wires. Hopefully on the weekend I will be able to test both of the new wire types in my car. FYI, For other Canadians trying to order from McMaster-Carr, don't bother unless you can order through a company or they will cancel your order. I first set up a web account with them and they sent me the message the next morning: "Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders." Luckily with one phone call I was able to add my company name to my web account and then I could place my order. All in all the service was good and I will use them in the future. Mike
  41. I have just placed an order with McMaster Carr for both the SS wire and phosphate coated carbon steel wire above. I will report back with my observations of both products after I receive them.
  42. Here's another idea for choke cable wire if you are worried about corrosion: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9495k91/=11m0s0p It has a little lower tensile strength than A228 music wire but it still looks to have good properties and a good price. McMaster-Carr also has Hi-tensile steel music, Here are the specs for comparison to the SS wire above: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9666k68/=11m0vpx This wire does have a phosphate coating which would give a small amount of corrosion resistance and help decrease friction inside the outer cable sheath.
  43. i bought the same wire for my heater control cables. the outer part i bought at a local bike shop. less than $20 for everything
  44. Hi all, I have a 260z with a worn out l26 motor, I got my hands on a l28 motor (f54 block p90a head solid lifters) Im going to use an E88 head that I have instead of the p90a, I have the motor stripped down, The block doesn't need to be rebored just honed and would like to keep it that why if possible. I was wondering is it possible to get standard size 86mm flat top pistons to increase my CR. This is my first rebuild so if anyone has anyother sugestions please feel free to advise me, Thanks, Jay.
  45. I wish he did, no one deserves it more. The key word there is "eligible", I believe it is up to the judges discretion in their final meeting whether or not to award the gold level award.


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