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Okay I have everything put back together so will go get 10gal of gas tomorrow morning and see if I can get it running, I got all the signals, lights and engine running well before I tore down so if I'm lucky ... I'll shoot a little video if all goes well.

Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20

Haha!! I could possibly be convinced to make more. You know they aren't metric though, right?

My DIY repair of the face plate , not perfect but I think it is OK for me . I really love Cray putty which is very easy to create shapes when I need . Kats

I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.

What do y'all think about spoons? I use one almost daily without poking my eyes out.

I did it with my mind,

Visited the Z barn: @kats Picked up three hen's teeth today... well a set of 4.5" wheels with tires and a gnose too. Thanks to Jim Hildred! Also got a 72 going that has not run in 15 years... gas tasted like water lol.

This will easily fit in the garage, and this is the best price I've seen online. If I didn't already have a lift, I would buy this: https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html

Never underestimate the rust of the dark side.

I guess there were a couple of install options that different dealers used for installing A/C. My series I car had the dealer York compressor installed on the same side as Tom's. I removed the York and installed a Sanden down where the air pump used to be (haven't completed putting it back together yet though). When I did the 3 row radiator with electric fans it wouldn't fit with the York so I had to remove it and go with the low Sanden mount. Old compressor New Compressor

I reproduced this decal years ago and it is being retailed by both Motorsport and Banzai. I am our of town until Monday but would be happy to send you one Tuesday, unless you need it sooner. It is very accurate. Dan

I don't know but for me there is a rule. Playing with a distributor =timing light. It's like changing a MC=Bleed the brakes.

Hey guys, Why are we talking about replacing the clutch. His problem is the clutch does not disengage properly. If it was slipping, then I would suspect the clutch. A list of things that can cause a dragging clutch - Clutch master cylinder push-rod wear and adjustment. - Slave cylinder push-rod wear and adjustment. You should have the adjustable push-rod type with the return spring. - Worn out master cylinder and/or slave cylinder rubbers. The slave cylinder you should see leaking fluid at thr push-rod. If the primary piston cup in the master cylinder is leaking. It will leak fluid back to the master cylinder resiviour and the clutch will loose travel. You will notice this in 1st and reverse firstly because they are standing start applications. You can check this by depressing the clutch peddle and holding it on the floor while someone watches the slave cylinder push-rod. If the clutch fork slowly returns then you have a laeking primary rubber cup in the master cylinder. Other things that will cause a dragging clutch and require removing the transmission to inspect and replace. They are not so common, but do occur occasionally. - Dry spigot beering in the end of the crankshaft. A very dry spigot bearing will drag the input shaft with the crankshaft. - Dry or rusted input shaft splines. When the pressure plate disengages the clutch plate, the clutch plate moves along the splines so to release it from the flywheel. If the clutch plates movement is restricted, it will disengage fully from the pressure plate, but not from the flywheel. Don't just assume its right. Follow the FSM for adjusting the master and slave cylinder push-rods. I posted the position of the clutcgh fork in relaxed and depressed positions. I can't remember of the top of my head and I'm not really closeby to civilisation atm. Ill try to find them. That would confirm the correct travel and the collar is correct or not. I would be doing these checks first before taking any steps to remove the transmission. Ok, I found the other thread.

A pic of the original door and the new one: All the new Delta regrind rockers back in place! And a shot of the new TTT outer tie rod bolts!

So my hovel was graced with the presence and presents of zKars today. Jim showed up with my replacement door shells along with a couple other bits and pieces. He also lent his hand showing me the proper way to reinstall the rockers in the E88 head! Thanks Jim! Here he is spending some quality time with his old stroker. And here he is enjoying a nice ocean aged whiskey... smooth!

That's thermostat opening, not sure you have a problem. Get or borrow an infrared temp guns and see what the actual temp is.

I had the reserve originally at $20k. If you were watching the auction, it hit $10k on Day 1 and then just sat at $10k until the last hour. Ramped up to $14k in 30 minutes and then sat until the last 10 minutes. Went from $14k to $17.5k in a blink and I lowered reserve to $17.5k. It then jumped to $19k.

do yourself a favor, if not done already, check the waterpump. look for any weeping of water, and play in the pump shaft. When it goes its no fun and you risk overheating the head. IF it needs replacement read a LOT about removing the bolts and how to try and avoid breaking them.

In 2015 I cleaned then coated the fuel tank on my 240. Today I put a new screen in the low pressure glass filter that I use. Nothing even close to pink from the Red-Kote, yea for me!

Man... That was confusing, but I think I figured it out. First, the simple (Obvious) answer... If you look at the prior page (32) of the FI bible, they show you how to locate the "ignition lead wire" and there is even a picture to show you what they are talking about. What they want you to do is disconnect and re-connect the wire that goes to pin 1 of the ECU, and the way they suggest to do that is to make and break the single wire connector under the dash next to your fuel injection relay above the driver's knee. But here's the rub..... You don't HAVE that single wire connector. You see, what happened is that the FI Bible was written in 1975, and hence, it referenced the 75 design and documentation, and in 1975 (and 76) there WAS a single wire connector there. But by the time they got to your (and mine) 77, they did away with that separate single wire connector and ran all those wires (including the input trigger signal) through the same connector that mates to the under dash harness. You do not have a single pin connector that funnels the ignition lead signal from the firewall under-dash harness to the FI system. That whole part of the FI bible does not easily apply to 77. All that said... What they want you to do is make and break the connection to pin 1 of the ECU (which is the ignition input signal). Easier to do in 75 or 76 than in 77. So here's what I would do instead: Pull the center high voltage wire out of the distributor and place it close to a good ground like the intake manifold or strut tower nut. Leave the other end of that coil wire connected to the coil as normal. Turn the key ON. Connect one side of a piece of test wire to ground. Ground and unground the negative side of the coil a bunch of times. You should get a spark from the coil wire to ground every time you unground the coil negative, and you should get an injector click on every third.

I bow down in shame. Went downstairs to wash some clothes and the smell of gas hit me. Which one you did this?

Traced recent intermittent passenger side chirping / squeaky noise to half shaft u joint. Replaced all yesterday. My nice neighbor across the street let me use his lift for the job. I'll have to get one of those one day! Will be using his lift when my shipment from France / Zstory gets here next week. That will be a very fun project! Also continued on with prep & some paint chip touchup for Zcon.

It's hard to see in the photo and my internet here, in the middle of nowhere, is not the best. Can you get a better side on photo? It might pay to do some more checking before removing the transmission. It could be just a leaky rear oil seal and the yoke is throughing it up around the striker arm. I would clean it, drive and check again to confirm before removing the transmission. Replacing a rear oil seal is a lot easier than pulling the transmission. These transmissions can also leak at pin (pos #8). It's not common, but possible. Some Nissan garages in Australia used to cover the exposed ends of the pin with silicone sealant as a precaution to prevent leaking. These old transmissions have wear and the tolerances could allow enough oil to leak through the pin boring. The o-ring seal (pos #3) is after the pin.

As Mark said, heater control valve or quite often I find the push cable that actuates the valve can bend and the valve never opens.

I have the 2000Z model, Kats. Could use a new faceplate or I'm going to have to repair it.

I agree, I like to see the fuel too that's why I got one, but the problem is not the glass it's the cheap pot metal on either end, it has no strength. This is a much safer bet,

Thanks for posting that, I like the real rust myself, that green Z just reminds me of the antiquing craze back in the 70's.

I'd have to look under the battery and under the hatch to see if it was done properly.

Cleaned then painted the inside of the fenders with POR-15, then a light undercoat. Installed and aligned fenders and side marker lights along with a few engine items. Here is a quick phone pic of the car along with my embarrassing garage stuff in the background. We're getting closer. I really need a larger place. Will pick up the hood and remaining body parts next week.

YET!

Yeah, I'd avoid the spoons too. From what I've heard, they can make you fat.

Agree, Get a (empty old) handsoap pump and pump the most out... ( i Always use this when i renew the brakefluid! .. you take the pump out of the bottle and pump the fluid into the same bottle.. this way you don't make a mess with that brakefluid (or in your case the oil)) (When doing the brakes then you don't have to pump all the oil through the system and you can start with a container full of clean brakefluid.) 😉

Mark, I wouldn't pull the carbs apart to get the old oil out. I just roll paper towels into a narrow cylinder and stick them down into the damper hole to soak up the old oil. Give it a few minutes to sop up the oil and then pull the paper out. Takes two or three rounds of paper wads to get the old stuff out. Taking the pistons out and turning them over to dump the oil out certainly works, but I consider it a risky maneuver with very little gain over just keeping them together and sponging it out instead. Respectively submitted, of course.

3 and 5 as long as you are taking it apart to fix. good time to put in a new throw out bearing/clutch/front seal.

I amaze myself at my own stupidity sometimes. I literally reinstalled this plate 2 days ago and never realized it has the engine number on it also! Thank you. Good news - matching numbers!

If you decide to go with the old style York, you'll end up with something like this: https://tinyurl.com/yxl96a3o You'll have a "state of the art" 1970 A/C system and all the drama that goes with it. Jim and Cliff offered good advice to go with a new style rotary compressor. I have the new style on my Z and all removed components of the old 1971 York set-up sit in the garage. Good while it lasted, but soooo last century. Dennis

A little more good news as my local hero @zKars has located some good condition 75/76 doors for me in his warehouse. Minimal rust repairs required and no bondo/damage. They might actually be from the same production run as my car! The original paint looks to be the same "240 Green" as my car was! That would indicate to me that they were built at the same time probably (as I assume they painted several cars the same colour during production).

The dampers control air and fuel. At the bottom of the pistons, there are fuel metering needles. When the gas pedal is pushed the butterfly valves in the carb throats open. The incoming air lifts the pistons which allow more air and fuel into the engine. 20w oil is recommended by Nissan. I ran ATF in mine. The oil prevents the damper from lifting too fast. The delayed rise in the dampers temporarily speeds up the airflow and pulls a little extra fuel into the air stream. It functions as an accelerator pump. You really can't over-fill the carbs with oil. Any extra will be sucked into the airstream and burned by the engine. The primary fuel adjustment is in the float height. There are secondary mixture adjustments under the carbs that raise or lower the fuel nozzles.

Guys pay thousands to get that look on their pick ups and here the expensive part of the rat rodding has already been done for you.

I would think about how you want to spend your time. I would definitely fix the leaks at some point but maybe you don't want to do it now. If you do everything else on your list, plus install a set of KYB strut inserts, you can start driving and enjoying the car. And, you can assess further what all needs to be addressed. If you pull the suspension apart and start painting all of the black under the car, you are starting a big project that likely renders your car on stands for a decently long time. Same goes for fixing the leaks. Those jobs open up multiple boxes of worms and could leave you without a car to enjoy for a while. Also, fixing the transmission seals is totally doable but it isn't an insignificant exercise. I did it last summer and it was pretty challenging getting the bolt that connects the shift fork to the shift rod removed (without damaging it) so I could replace the shifting o-ring and seal. Not trying to scare you. It is just not a clutch swap. It is a messy less than intuitive job if you have never been inside of a transmission before. Again though, it really depends on how you want to spend your time. If you really want to devote 6 months to getting all of these things right so you can drive and enjoy after then great. If you think you will get worn out and a bit frustrated when the car has been on stands for months and you can't drive it then maybe that tells you something also.

gwri8 has a pretty good list. One item I find difficult to remove with out mangling is the drip rail trim. It takes a little practice to get them off with out distorting them. If your window seals are hard at all, I would just cut them and remove the glass. If they are still pliable, I would try to remove the glass with the seal or have a glass company do it. The front windshield is easy to break if you push it too hard. Mark, also makes a very good point. The sheet metal is very thin on these cars and a careless blaster will destroy a car very quickly. I would have them DA the whole car really well. They will find any trouble spots at that point. I don't think I would go looking for extra work. There are risks associated with stripping the car back to bare metal. You can develop surface rust and that can cause paint failures later. Even rust that is really not obvious; been there , done that. If the existing paint is adhered well, I don't believe I would pay someone to strip it off...

Basically you remove anything that is not sheet metal. That means tail lights and panels, running lights, mirror(s), door handles, antenna, bumpers, headlights, badging, quarter windows, door window frames, probably not the grille. Are you going to paint door jambs and the hatch panel also? Then you might need to remove the hatch hardware and door hardware also and the metal (aluminum) step plates, but the paint shop could handle that with very little effort. The front and back glass is not hard to get out if you just cut it out with a razor knife. Just cut around the edges and have someone help you lift them out. Depending on how well the first refresh was done, there could be rust behind the rear taillight panels or under the front and back glass seals, if it was not handled before. Mine had to be rebuilt.😟

I have not seen any measurements fro the pedal adjustment. Did you follow the procedure in the manual for adjusting the pedal and slave cylindrr rod? Don't assume. Do the checks and tick of the list. A blocked port in the master cylinder or insufficient pedal travel can cause a lot of hartache. Push the pedal to the floor and note where it touches. Measure from that point. I made some screenshots of the 72 FSM for the slave cylinder and the 77 FSM for the pedal adjustment. I find it a little clearer. Though it helped (me) to read it twice😁.

Well, it "sold" for $19,000, so I would say that it did well. The bidding got really fast and furious in the last 30 minutes.

Hi Gavin , what a miracle it is ! How much was that on winning bid ? I am scared to hear that. That is for the first time I have ever seen in that condition, simply amazing. Hi scotta , you have the face plate and yours is much much better looking than mine , you did touched it up very well . Here is a tip of CST-2000ZD , this model was applied from mid 1973 but this could be interchangeable with an earlier model. This 2000ZD has just a little different mounting bracket on the each sides which can be modified or removed easily. You can fit your 2000Z face plate right on to the 2000ZD without any modification. So you have good chances to find nice one if you look and extend the search widely up to 1978 in Fairlady Z series . I am now feeling I need to do it again for better result . Kats

I haven't looked inside the 2 radios to compare yet, someday I will. However I thought you'd appreciate these pics of a NOS radio I wanted to buy on eBay. But someone else outbid me. https://goo.gl/photos/sXHcEMFqGQPd3K5ZA It shows the original box/booklet and condition of the radio is superb. A true treasure.

Hey Kats, I have both ZA and ZB radio's and noticed the red vs green light. I believe the ZA radio I got came out of a very early 240z. You car is the first I've seen with working red light. I think it may have applied to very early build date cars. The rest of mine are all Green.

Try to actuate the switch while it's not in th he tranny and see if the lights work

I use this for a pre-pump filter in my 240z. WIX 33002 My tank hasn't been restored though so not sure I would use a filter if it had.