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A little of topic but I have tested a product called Revive to refresh the finish of an old steering wheel from my parts car. I was very impressed with the result and there is no greasy feel to the surface. This steering was very grey looking before I started, but I didn't take a picture at that state. I first cleaned the wheel with soap and water and after it was thoroughly dry I applied the product.

Here's a couple of close-up pics of my wheel in process some years ago, one with it stripped and one with it stained and topped with a coat of clear lacquer. The preferred clear coat today is usually spray polyurethane. I used a hand-rubbed oil base stain.

Well, it has been a long time coming, but I finally got the car out to a car show. Went to the 30th Anniversary of the Edmonton Z Car Club Car show on Saturday. Wow! Where did all of these S30's come from! It was a great turnout with lots of great cars. I am over the moon thrilled with SASSZ and how she looks in the sunlight. We weren't the only ones apparently because we took first place for the S30 class and Best in Show to boot! Validation after all this time feels amazing... Thanks to everyone on this forum that have helped push me along with advice and encouragement, parts and knowledge.

Plywood and steel wheels purloined from street skates in the early sixties. Sixty years later a few of the old memories (scars) remain and remind me of the good old days of adrenaline fueled afternoons and the painful recoveries.

Love your Z Moelk........but how can you sleep at night missing the little black door stopper? I’m so disappointed...😜

And she's done! Licensed and on the road and it only took 42 yrs. I'm wondering anyone is even going to notice the 240Z sunvisors, they look like they could be stock.

fwiw, my block that Ali pictured above is a mid 80s v57 LD block. It came with no crank case vent holes of any kind. We drilled and tapped it (1" NPT maybe?) and I fitted that hose connector.

Before and after for the gas fill area on the Z. Everything replated with new rubber bits to finish it off.

Sounds like something on/in the coupling sleeve and hub gears. Could be a chunk stuck in the teeth or a broken tooth. The shafts and main bearings are all shared between and the gears themselves are constantly meshed so a gear problem should be heard all the time. Only the coupling sleeve and hub meshes when you select a new gear. Although, there is a needle bearing under each gear that might deflect under load. Others have more transmission experience. Seems like you'll need to take it out and apart though to know for sure.

@ownallday - you’re most welcome. Keep this thread up to date so that we can see how you got on. On my brother in law’s TR6, being push rod, the cam cover breather is like a steam train chuffing away and it made me cough when I had it unplugged. Now if a car ever benefits from a catch tank it’s that one!!!! I’m surprised you’re getting large blow-by from the top of the engine. I’ve found on mine the engine block breather is normally the one with more output. And I have pretty good rings with 205psi dynamic compression. One tip, I used 15mm copper pipe inside the I think it was 16 or 17mm ho

It has evolved some, and now it consists of: Using these glass beads from Northern Tool and Equipment, important for size of grain, and bead blasting at 90 psi with a 1/8th inch nozzle to remove all rust, and to establish a consistent finish. I use one of these baskets and find that putting a variety of hardware (big and small) is great for trapping the parts in place so I can blast them without them flying around too much. For large parts, you don't need to use the basket, and you can then go back over them with the pressure at 50 psi to put a smoother, easier to "second stage prep"

So, in early July and under this summers' typical weather so far, our national French club assisted with Peter Autos' Historic-Racing Le Mans Bugatti and were allowed several track sessions each day.....who could resist ? Please bear in mind that I haven't driven my Z on a circuit since 2009...and that the engine is still limited to 4500rpm and so lacking a LOT of horsepower and this wet session was undertaken on Toyo R888 semi-slicks ! Enjoy and have a good laugh on me at the end. Apparently there are more videos to come earlier in the weeke

I bought an off-the-shelf flywheel from Rock Auto. Took it to my local machine shop with the diagram in Post #3 of this thread. It has a real nice feel and combined with a 3.90:1 diff, really good off the line butt dyno.

I haven’t but I also don’t feel like being a cripple any time soon. As kids we used to “hillside” on our skateboards. I grew up in the Bay Area near San Francisco and we had serious winding hills where I lived. We would cannonball run down these hill that we’re over a mile long and we would weave down the hill sideways to slow down. We’d hit like 40 mph (had to tighten the trucks up big time to be stable) To do it we’d lay backwards and put one hand on the road. We had homemade gardening gloves what were massively wrapped in duck tape and had layers of plastic; the stuff used to prote

Also some copper to back the hole Helps close them up too. Mind that the copper gets hot very quickly!! Do you not have a metal shop that can brake a section like that for you? I would consider replacing that or at least the worst sections. By the time its clean there wont be much metal left. Several years ago I would have chased those holes. I have come around to the idea that it's overall just easier to get rid of that rotten metal and the chassis is stiffer for it

#2 Only if the trans mount rubber is split, torn, or perished would I replace it. If it looks ok, just re-use it.

Fun morning today. Took the Z down the street to Carcadia at Route 66, the local cars and coffee event here. It was my first time going (naturally, I took zero pictures) and the first time taking my car to an event like this. Mine was the only S30 there this time, though a couple of roadsters padded the Datsun ranks, and I chatted with their owners for a bit. A lot of people had nice things to say about the car, which was very gratifying. No less than 5 asked "who did the paint?" (I guess this is just one of the standard car questions to ask) and being able to say "me, in my garage" sure makes

I actually spent more time installing a couple of lights in the garage than I did working on the car. Since I had to do the install with the garage doors open, it got pretty warm in there today. However, I now have good light over the engine bay, so I think that will be to my advantage going forward. The overnight bath in EvapoRust was good for the steel parts of the float bowl. After taking the parts out of the bath, I put them in a bath of fogging oil. I put the new valves in the float bowls and installed the floats and the vents. The lids are secured with new gaskets. I orde

Cleaned up the rear wheel wells with soap and a scrub brush, turned out pretty good. Dealing with the mustache bar now, to get the differential in place so I can adjust the bushing on the new TC front mount I bought. I've read a few mustache bar links here, pro's and cons of replacing the bushings, the nonexistent serrated rubber washers, etc. The bushings in mine seem good, not too hardened, so I don't want to replace with poly for now. The washers on the other hand, not so fortunate. While cleaning in my solvent tank some of the rubber nubs fell off, and a few were already missing.

Check out https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/ this guy has many pieces that other places do not. It sticks in my mind that KlasicFab may have these also, https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/?swoof=1&product_tag=240z&really_curr_tax=37-product_cat I'd start with these two, I'd be willing to bet one if not both will have what you need.

The first time I saw that 300ZX design I was blown away. It’s a beautiful car without question, but a serious departure from the previous Z designs (maybe too far). It seems Nissan got a little lost. What was once an affordable car for the masses became a car that only few could afford back then. They lost the spirit of what made the Z amazing. A simple, well engineered , beautiful car that had enough performance to wow the population. They tried to make later model of the car too plush, too many bells and whistles and lost track of what made the car great. This car to me share little

I’m far away, so tough to get them to you quick, but I have a set. Let me know. Another option is to just get a pair of the front bearings from RockAuto, and put those in the rear isolators. That is all the rubber ones really are, just substitution to fill the space in the isolator that the bearing does in the front. It will not cause your rear struts to tend to steer or anything strange. Will add about 1/2 lb of weight

Google, 240z honda wiper motor swap

I'm not much of a 2+2 fan but for a $1,000 that was a great buy.

It has been suggested before to get a digital volt meter. Still don't have one. Can't test for true voltage or resistance with a test light. Nobody can help you fix these things from a 1000 miles away if your not gonna do what they ask!!!

The amount of carbon deposits on the head and pistons on the engine I rebuilt was remarkable. I’d like to mitigate that from happening again. Those deposits, hurt fuel efficiency and create hot spots I’ve read and can hurt CR. I think I’ll probably run two small independent cans like I mentioned above and see how it works. As far as CA power problems this has been brewing for years. I have no problem with going to cleaner energy sources but they have to have replacements in place before making restriction laws. I lived in Ca about half of my life. Everything has become crazy expensive

I agree that electricity is one of the biggest hurdles. California already has issues producing and transferring power. With an enormous demand added, how will that be accomplished. Definitely not hydro! The lakes are already painfully low. Nuclears out, coal, nope. Natural gas is still an emitter. Green sources are erratic and storage of excess energy is a problem. Will be interesting to see how it plays out

I was a journeyman mechanic for 30 years, and a state certified diesel and gas emissions specialist (among many other certifications). I’ve probably forgotten more than the average shade tree mechanic knows. I am interested to see how California is going to get by without internal combustion engines. Agriculture is the state’s largest industry, with plenty of tractors and trucks. Then there is the trucking industry, and no manufacturer is currently producing all electric long haul trucks. Locomotives are another one that is going to be difficult to replace with pure electric. I

Oh, and forgot to mention... Since you're trying to create a complete path that clears out the entire engine interior, that's why the two vent connections are so far apart. If they were both on the valve cover, you would set up a little circle there. And if they were both on the block, you wouldn't clean out the head area. They put one on the head and one on the block so it pulls through the entire block. On "V" style (and opposed) engines, you can put one vent on each valve cover because they are each joined to each other through the block cavity. But on the inline engines, you need one

Continued with creating templates for the tar mat insulators. I have finished and uploaded templates for the rear deck area to our downloads in the cad files section, https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/142-1970-240z-floor-tar-mat-templates/ Here is a picture of testing the templates to confirm fit. All that is left to do is the transmission tunnel area, hopefully I will get that done soon, before the shell goes to the body shop.

Amazing attention to detail. Very inspiring.

Few more updates on the Z. Worked on rebuilding the quarter windows, finished up the vapor canister install, and got the antenna/speaker bracket in. Next I’ll get the wiring harness routed and have the hatch area just about done.

As I look back over this thread we should have asked you for a picture of the broken handle so we could have helped you better.

Z Car Depot has my latest parts order in the mail, so I expect to see the package on Thursday or Friday. A guy needs a good distraction to reduce the leftover stress from work. That meant spending yesterday evening in the garage to clear out room for the Quickjacks, and moving them into the garage this evening. I did the grand unboxing, performed the required RTFM, watched a few YouTube videos on Quickjacks, and set about the execution. Since I'm not in a rush, I only worked on the ramps this evening. The hoses are connected, and the cylinders have been pressurized. No air leaks detected.

When you jump it you're putting outside power directly to the cable ends. Kind of sounds like dirty cable end to battery post connections. When the current from the starter motor (lots of amps) hits them the corrosion heats up and expansion opens the connection. Then it cools down and closes and will pass enough current to run lights and things. Very common, many starters have been replaced because of it.

Prepping hardware... Will it ever end??????????? 🙂 Only a vague idea if this is good enough. Perhaps, some of it is overkill. Thanks for the guidance about prep level on the hardware. I have probably been going overkill on some. I hope I can finally send everything off in a couple of weeks. A lot of the larger stuff (wiper linkage, hard lines, etc.) is not shown here:

Yeah... to answer your question.. no i did'nt let it get to me. (when i was restoring my 280zx slick roof..) even when someone broke the 3th !!!! windscreen i kept relative calm.. The first one had a pit in it it broke later on when in storage.. so my own fault. the next was 400 euro and the girlfriend of my 1st painter broke it while cleaning the house.. but till this day she does not confess.. never seen the screen.. yeah whatever! the third was a co-worker of my 2nd painter.. then i had to order a 4th screen pff.. so don't let it get to you.. Restoring a car is ALWAYS more work than you

The topic is.... Can i use broken drivers side door handle on passenger side?? BTW... have we all read this correctly? you can't use a broken one! On any side!! (Yeah i know i'm what we call overhere a : "muggezifter" ... No translation possible.. let say someone who is very critic on his (or sometimes other peoples) work.. 🙊

Sorry to hear that! Must have been very scary!!! Glad the car is fine. I hate those filter type things as they invariably get “wet”. Here’s a photo of my set up (except I now run an airbox). If you look bottom left you will see my catch can. It’s a 0.3l cheap eBay one with two inputs and one output. The best catch cans (unlike mine) are baffled. The top of that filter can sometimes smell eggy - you can always route a pipe away from the top to somewhere in the engine bay where it doesn’t matter. Also note the home made heat shield that works amazingly in keeping the carbs cool and divert

There are both very affordable reproductions and not that much more expensive OEM ones available from all the usual vendors. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o02e01

Buy another one

I have the tranny all put together. Seems to bench shift ok. Hopefully in the next 6 months we will get to road test it. We'll see Thanks for everyone's help!!

A few years back @Captain Obvious turned my old skateboard veneers into a shifter knob. It’s cool to keep using the old board, lots of memories with it…. Reduce, reuse, recycle I guess 🙂 The new one is slightly larger, so it fits my hands better…

Scott K in #202. Very fast driver in a very well sorted out 240. Telemetry and a coach with a driver who listens and isn't afraid to wreck his car (as long as no one else is around) while he tries to be faster in one segment of the track or another.

View Advert Restored 240Z Tail Light Panels Up for sale is the last set of 240Z tail light panels I expect to complete. They have been restored to the OE color and finish. The stainless steel bezels have been polished to a chrome-like shine and are free of dings or scratches. The back sides have been thoroughly cleaned, any traces of surface rust removed, and sealed with a fresh coat of primer. I’ve included a pic of a set I recently completed and installed on my car with the license light refinished to match. Also available (not pictured) is a matching res

I modified an old screwdriver to help remove the broken off breather vent. Basically catch the top of the sideway holes and pull up. New 38352-78600 is $7 from dealer. Here's a pic of the TC mount clearance. Hard to believe the factory used a belt instead of something like this.

Got it running after 7 or so years. Found out it has an L28, coilovers and a 5 speed. Here we go.

This weekend I decided to go after the carburetors. The car had not run in 9 years, and I was worried about what I might find. As I pulled apart the float bowls, my worries were confirmed. The bowl in the rear carburetor was lined with a rusty-colored dust. The bowl in the front had some black ooze in that clogged the line going to the nozzle. If you are ever thinking about just adding some fresh gas to a Z that has been sitting for a few years, I suggest that you don't do it until after you clean out the carbs and fuel system. Many components in the float bowl were rusted. I presume

Mark you were the pioneers. The Lewis and Clark of skating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk