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Dolfinz

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About Dolfinz


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  • Member ID: 34916


  • Rank: EnthuZiast


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  • Joined: 10/27/2020


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    85383

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    260z
  • About my Cars
    Very first car I ever bought when I returned from oversees in 1977. Working to restore it once again to leave for my Grandson as his first car.

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    RLS 30010110

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  1. Anybody have any idea where I might find a radio bracket?
  2. Dolfinz

    Bracket

    A pic would be great.
  3. Dolfinz

    Bracket

    1974 260z
  4. Dolfinz

    Bracket

    Anybody know where this goes and how it mounts? I'm thinking in the console maybe?
  5. The original RPM was 1000 at 2000 the voltage is 14.5v. Is that acceptable?
  6. I finally had a chance to check the voltage at the battery when running. It was between 13.5 and 13.7v. I assume this is sufficient even though the voltage is so low at the F terminal on the alternator?
  7. Please see attached.
  8. So I started it and checked the voltage at the F terminal. It was 5.5-6v. The voltage at the blk/wht wire going in to the VR was 12v. Motor off and IG switch ON at F terminal 11.9v. Suggestions?
  9. So I found the blk/wht wire from the engine harness going to C-7. I checked for voltage on the output side of C-7 and there wasn't any, with the ig switch on. I cut the wire and spliced it directly to the ignition switch blk/wht wire. Now in the ON position I have 12v at the blk/wht at the VR and just under 11v at the F terminal on the alternator. I will try starting it over the weekend and advise if this has resolved the issue.
  10. A few more thoughts. I was reviewing the manual transmission whole car harnesses wiring diagram and it appears that the black/wht wire beyond the C-7 connector at the fire wall, inside the engine compartment, only goes to the VR and condenser correct? There appear to be other places it goes from the ignition switch that aren't in the engine compartment that are apparently working; since it runs. From my recent experience troubleshooting and repairing my gauge issues I had to bypass the firewall connectors, thus I am very suspect of those connectors. I am curious to see if the condenser has voltage or continuity to the harness plug at the VR, but as previously stated I have no idea where it is. At this point I think I may need to bypass C-7 as I did for the other connectors related to the gauges and connect the blk/wht wire from the dash harness directly to the same in the engine harness. Open to other thoughts.
  11. The ballast resistor is located under the VR. Where is the condenser?
  12. Steve, I performed the suggested tests. On the wiring harness the white wire is hot regardless of key position. With key ON no other wires get hot including the black/white. As for the continuity on the VR connector, I have 3 ohms between those 2 terminals. Next steps to determine why black/white wire isn't getting hot with key ON?
  13. So I can just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the F terminal on the alternator? I was previously advised against it as it would bypass the voltage regulator.
  14. So, it's been a few months since we last discussed this due to my working on other things. Now that those are completed I still have to resolve the alternator issue. I replaced the voltage regulator and with the key on I still have no +12v at the F terminal. See my last question regarding if the motor has to be running for the F wire to get +12. Reading back through the posts to this point I'm not sure what to try next. Perhaps someone can advise me further on how to isolate the problem? I'm running out of ideas.
  15. But, does that confirm the gauge is working? It could be shorted and bypass the voltage without reacting to specified resistance.
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