Racer X

The mailbox came powder coated black. I wet sanded it with 600. Then I taped off the flames, and shot the colors one at a time. I used two stage automotive base coat/clear coat paint. The color goes on and dries quickly, so each color can be done shortly after the previous one. By the time I had my gun cleaned and the next color mixed it was ready. After the colors were done I removed the masking, hand pinstriped a line around the flames, then mixed and shot the clear coat. It has held up well, the picture was taken after about 12 years after the paint was laid down. I wash and wax it once a year. My neighbors have all asked if I would paint their boxes, but shy away when I tell them how much it cost.

If they can be turned on a brake lathe, and still be in spec, they are serviceable. Otherwise they aren’t worth much at all.

Don’t “dent” the pipe to make clearance, doing so is a poor solution. You should be able to adjust the position to the system so there is adequate clearance.

I apprenticed at an automotive body shop as a teen, late 1960s, early 1970s. Learned the trade from a guy who made body and paint his life’s work. I’ve painted a lot of cars, pickups, big trucks, a couple of tractors, and dozens of refrigerators. I even painted my mailbox. Good tools go a long way toward an acceptable result. I still own all the tools from then, and have added HVLP spray guns back when the paint systems changed. Devilbiss is among the best, and all I own, both suction and HVLP. The difference is in how the gun handles the material. A good spray gun will produce an even spray pattern, a cheap one will not. Always clean the gun thoroughly after every use, especially with today’s catalyzed paints. Once they cure out, it is impossible to remove them from the passages inside the gun. Take good care of your equipment and it will reward you with good results for many years.

If you can find a y pipe from 2” to 2.5”, it would be the perfect solution. Otherwise your best bet will be to find a competent fabricator who can build up a y connection that slip fits onto the header, then has the outlet at 2.5”, using mandrel bent pipe, in stainless. Also, using a tig welder will produce better welds than using a mig, and a stick should not be used at all. The mandrel bent pieces can be had from several exhaust specialty supply houses. There is one out in Utah, can’t recall the name at the moment. Using non mandrel bent pipe will dramatically reduce the flow, so it is important to use mandrel bent pipe.

Two questions. Is that lift in your garage? And, where did you get the exhaust?

Hope you didn’t hurt the input shaft bearings in the transmission running the engine and no grease in the tranny.

With the age of the car, and if it has been long enough since it was last registered, it is possible there won’t be any record of it. If so, a new title would be issued, clear of any branding for salvage, etc.

Or one could file for lost title, get a new title for the car and move on with a full restoration.

Doesn’t everyone?

RIP Bob.

I have a love/hate relationship with MSA. Many years ago I ordered crankshaft and rod bearings. They were shipped loose in a box of packing peanuts. When they arrived every bearing shell had damage. I contacted them and they were incredulous, even told me it would be OK to install them and run them. So I sent them back, paying shipping both ways. Fast forward to early this year. Started getting my 72 back into driving condition. Ordered a bunch of stuff, clutch, clutch cover, thermostat and housing, cam cover gaskets, head gaskets, and a dozen other items. Like you, the order was delayed, with no communications. I called them, they said they sent an email. Never got one. Turns out there is some problem with their email that they can’t work out, and other customers also have had that problem. So they said there were some items on my order that were on back order. I asked that they send what they had and send the rest later. The head gaskets and cam cover gaskets showed up, packed loosely with the heavy clutch and pressure plate. The gaskets were destroyed from the clutch cover bouncing around in the box. They sent it FedEx Ground, an 800 mile trip, from LA to Seattle, that actually had the package go through Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, Boise, Portland then Seattle. Took two weeks, The gaskets were destroyed. The box had the beginning of a hole in it from the clutch cover, and was one toss away from being ripped open. To their credit, they sent replacement gaskets, no charge. A month or so later the pan gaskets and a harmonic balancer arrived. They had wrapped the pan gaskets around the box the balancer was in, rather than packing the gaskets in a flat package. Again, the gaskets are not in good shape. I give up on them. Don’t care if they have all the Z stuff, and good prices. They do have a guy who is a member here, maybe you can reach out to him. Or not.

If the cable is seized inside the sheath, and you aren’t reusing it, then cut the cable to get it out.

What @Patcon said. Release the tension on the cable by backing the adjustment off.

Don’t cut it. It was together before, so it should go together again. You just need to work out the puzzle of getting things in the right place for assembly. As @Patcon says, pictures will help us help you.