Jump to content

Racer X

Members
  • Content Count

    304
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Racer X last won the day on November 26

Racer X had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

145 Excellent

About Racer X

  • Rank
    Professional Amateur

Contact

  • Map Location
    The Great Pacific Northwet

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    260z
    280z
    280zx

Recent Profile Visitors

1,593 profile views
  1. Wow, twenty grand for a high mileage car (at least 168,000 miles), with a recent scuff and blow paint job (and a color change), and an L28. I wonder what head it has on it. There is rust bubbling up on the cowl panel, through that two year old paint job. The leather seats are nice though. Giv s that twenty grand feel.
  2. Headers have that pinging sound that can make one think there is a leak. Steel tubing doesn't absorb the shock of the exhaust pulses like cast manifolds do. Or, they may just be leaking some. Your car is pretty clean, so finding evidence of leaks should be easy, just look for the streaks of carbon where the exhaust gasses are squirting out.
  3. Connect the gauge to a port on the balance bar. Your readings should then look more like those in the video AK260 posted.
  4. No, not yet. There are other things to look at. Like: ^^^^ What he said. ^^^^
  5. Have you tried replacing the GM ignition module? They do die periodically, and you mention that the car ran fine for 6 months, so get one and swap it out. I have owned several GM vehicles with that ignition module, and learned early on to keep one in the glove box, along with a screwdriver for changing it out. Saved me on more than one occasion. I also worked as a mechanic for 30 years at a local electric utility, and the fleet was mostly GM. I lost count of how many of those modules I changed out over the years.
  6. Then I would simply wipe it with some clean solvent, and then follow with a clean, dry wipe before the solvent dries, to ensure there is nothing but the fresh paint. And of course a good wet wipe, dry wipe of the rubber stuff, with the alcohol. Don't use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. Get isoprpoyl alcohol. Then apply the adhesive to the car, and install the weatherstrip. If done right, the weatherstrip should bond instantly, or within a few seconds, so be sure the placement is correct.
  7. I would clean everywhere the adhesive will be applied. The weatherstrip side and the car side. On the car side a solvent designed to soften and remove the old adhesive would be the best, and shouldn't be harmful to the paint. A plastic scraper comes in handy here too, as it shouldn't damage the paint.
  8. Try cleaning the silicone off of the weatherstripping using isopropyl alcohol. Silicone is used as a release agent when making rubber products, and adhesives won't stick to it.
  9. Can you show us a picture of the hole?
  10. Racer X

    COVID-19

    The stretch of highway from Denver to Fort Collins is busy, and crazy. I passed through there a few hundred times during my short stint as a flatbed truck driver. Saw plenty of weird things, like this guy who was so eager to get out on the lake he decided to launch his boat early. Guess This Isn't The Boat Launch by Racer, on Flickr
  11. Racer X

    COVID-19

    Ever stop at Johnson's Corner and get a cinnamon roll and coffee? A heavy dose of caffeine and sugar to get you down the road.
  12. Racer X

    COVID-19

    More like an act of civil ignorance and stupidity.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.