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Richard McDonel

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Richard McDonel last won the day on August 10

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About Richard McDonel

  • Rank
    Registered User

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  • Map Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
  • Occupation
    SCFI

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    '71 240Z HLS30 28726
    '78 Mercedes 450SEL
    Various boring transportation appliances

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  1. YARB is right. Change them both. For a start if you haven't done the the job before, the first one will take too much time. After that, the second one will take half the time. Also, if one cylinder has failed, there is no reason to expect its twin has much, if any life left.
  2. Gentlemen (I hope that's the appropriate salutation), I really do appreciate your interest. I think - not totally sure - I'm the wiser for reading your comments. Here's a final question: Is the use of a vacuum pump for bleeding any less effective than having someone pump the pedal? Have a good weekend all - and a Happy Thanksgiving for my Canadian friends.
  3. Captain, OK, I think I follow what you are saying, but it seems to assume that the air is ahead of the fluid in the lines. What about air that has fluid both ahead and behind it? Air that got in because of a leak somewhere else - front brakes or proportioning valve for instance. It seems to me that a guy is going to have to push and awful lot of fluid out before he gets to the bubble? Does that make any sense? ps, For the record I did not flunk Fluid Dynamics because I never took the course, so you're ahead of me there.
  4. Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions folks. What I'm thinking is that any air will naturally rise to the highest point available. Therefore there is not going to be any air at the bleeder screw; it would have already risen to its highest available point, that being the hose where it clips to the top of the brake backing plate. Regardless of how high one holds the bleeder jar, if there is air in the brake hose at the top of the assembly, that air is not going to be sucked all the way down to the bleeder screw. Isn't that why with the front discs the bleeder is at the top of the
  5. I have a 240Z. The brakes work fine, but I can't understand the bleeding process. Why is the bleeder screw on the rear drums at the bottom of the assembly? Old Chevs and even back to DKWs I've worked on always had the bleeder at the top, which makes sense, because air rises and we want to get it out of the system. What am I missing here? Thanks
  6. 1971 240Z. My headlights, dash lights, and horn all work, but not well. Headlights are dim, dash lights are barely there, and I doubt the horn could be heard from 100 feet. Fuses are OK. Any ideas? Thanks
  7. View Advert "Datsun" script badge on hatch I need a 1971 240Z Datsun script badge for right rear of hatch. Not sure what they mean by "price" on Line 6. Tell me what you want for it. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 10/05/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971
  8. Time Left: 2 months and 15 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I need a 1971 240Z Datsun script badge for right rear of hatch. Not sure what they mean by "price" on Line 6. Tell me what you want for it.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Red Deer, Alberta - CA

  9. View Advert Shop manuals 1. Wick Humble Z Car restoration manual. Fair-rough condition, but all pages are there. 2. Chilton's hard-cover Datsun Repair and Tune-Up Guide 1961-1972. Intact and good condition. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 10/05/2021 Price $20 Category Parts for Sale  
  10. Time Left: 2 months and 15 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    1. Wick Humble Z Car restoration manual. Fair-rough condition, but all pages are there. 2. Chilton's hard-cover Datsun Repair and Tune-Up Guide 1961-1972. Intact and good condition.

    $20

    Red Deer, Alberta - CA

  11. Heyitsrama: A dried out joint. I hear they can be brought back to life with some time in a cigar humidor. Great idea, right? But I'm two years late?
  12. Good evening All, All these years of working to turn three dilapidated 240s into one good cruiser has come with a lot of expense I'm sure that everyone on this forum knows what I'm talking about. But this evening I'm delighted to share with you that I have taken the first step towards recovering my investment. I had in my garage two trash-grade seats. The idea was to take them apart so the seat cushions and backrests would fit into my garbage bin. On two of them, I made a profit. Jammed between the seat cushion and the metal arm linking it to the backrest, I found money! A 1974 nickel
  13. Many months ago I posted a query on this forum. At the time I had two interior door panels in rough shape. They had been bought without door-latch holes and my attempts at cutting my own had failed - perhaps by 1/8 to 1/4 inch, but enough to make an ugly scene. My usual supplier, MSA, had new ones on back order for months, and I was becoming convinced they would ever have them. So I asked this forum for suggestions. ZKars and one or two others answered and referred me to Zcar Depot, a firm I had not previously dealt with. I called, and yes, they have them in stock; door latch openings p
  14. @Namerow Will definitely let everyone know how they look - probably this weekend - but progress report on installation might take a while. Here, in central Alberta in the depths of winter, my 240 is on a hoist, above my '78 Mercedes 450SEL. The other garage, the workshop, is filled with a disassembled 1965 oval-track sprint car and related parts. So...freeing the 240Z might be more of a project than is practical with a foot of snow on the ground. Again, thanks for your interest.
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