Richard McDonel

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Richard McDonel last won the day on April 18 2019

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About Richard McDonel

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    Registered User

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  • Map Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
  • Occupation
    SCFI

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    '71 240Z HLS30 28726
    '78 Mercedes 450SEL
    Various boring transportation appliances

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  1. Many thanks fellows. What I have now is real leather, but a bit too small to attach properly to the console. If anyone knows what it might really belong to, I have a deal for you! Cheers
  2. Siteunseen, Yes! I have the right ones. (now comes the hard part - restoration) Many thanks for replying.
  3. I'm trying to get my 240 as close to original as practical. I have the wrong shift boot, and am offered replacements in both vinyl and leather, and with or without a boot lace at the top. Which came original on a Series 2 1971? Thanks
  4. Can someone tell me what model years are represented by hubcaps with "Z" in the centre, vs "D" Thanks
  5. Since getting my 240Z restoration safety checked, licensed and on the road, last fall I've put on about 200 miles. At times it has run well, but there have been too many other times. Back in August, it quickly, without warning started running rough. I pulled the plugs and they were all showing a lot of soot - running too rich. I cleaned them up, re-installed, and nothing changed. I've now put in a new set of plugs, started the engine with minimum choke, shut the choke off quickly, and ran the engine for 10 minutes. It idled OK; just a bit rough. Open the throttle and it really stumbled until it cleared 2,000 rpm. Beyond that, it sounded fine. Pulled the plugs, and got really confused. Number 1 looked like new; 2 had some black soot; 3 and 4 were badly sooted; 5 had some soot, and 6 was almost as clean as 1. I read that as too rich at the centre of the engine, but leaning out as we move towards the ends. I could lean down the carbs (set at 2.5 turns), but what would that do to cylinders 1 and 6? Any advice or wisdom would be appreciated. Richard McDonel ps Back in the '60s I bought a used Triumph TR-3, with its twin SUs, and ran it for a year. I endured a number of issues with the car typical of English sports cars of the day, but nothing ever went wrong with respect to the carbs. But now...
  6. Jim, Thanks for clarifying. No, I'm afraid there are no notches cut in the back of my carpet (aftermarket #%^&*@). Fortunately I have a friend who is a sail maker and he should be able to cut and stitch-trim the recesses I need. Best regards
  7. Thanks Jim, I was a bit concerned that having the back of the carpet screwed to the floor might make spare-tire access an issue, but (hopefully) that's a problem we won't have to deal with often. I appreciate your advice.
  8. I have an MSA carpet in the hatch area. The back edge is up against the two rear luggage strap mounts, and this forces the carpet forward, leaving a bulge in the middle. The carpet is too long. Should there be, or should I cut notches in the rear edge of the carpet to make room for the mounts, or should I punch through the carpet and screw the mounts down on top of the carpet? Thanks
  9. Progress report: Had another look at the position of the float and determined that the only reason it wasn't centered was that there is a bit of sideways play on the pivot pin. Nothing to see here folks. So I rechecked the float level using my own glass- jar plus funnel system (photo attached); be patient Snap-On, l'll sell you the blueprints as soon as I get my patent in order. Re-installed the float, tried Siteunseen's push-down-with-a-straw method, and everything seemed as bouncy as it should. Fired up, let it run for a couple of minutes, drove a couple of miles, brought it back, and no gas coming at me through the vent. It reminds me of a friend's car many years ago, a Chev V-8. Occasionally it would start running rough, at which point he would pull over, dig out a fairly heavy screwdriver, and whack the carb bowls with the handle. Problem solved. "Float gets stuck in the bowl somehow" he explained. I'm not sure how the SU float could get stuck in the bowl with everything being clean and shiny, but I can't think of anything else. The only problem now is finding any engine between idle (does nicely at 700 rpm) and 2,200 rpm. Touch the throttle and the carbs pause and gasp before winding up to working range.
  10. Thanks everyone, I had checked the float for leaks, but all seems dry. I did not use the push-down with a straw method suggested, and there might be something there. Right now, the float and lid assembly are sitting on my desk, and while the side-to-side variance is not great, there is no question the float isn't hanging dead centre. Enough to cause friction with the wall of the bowl? We'll find out tomorrow morning when I'll be brave and try to bend things just a tiny bit to get it all centered. What is the significance of "grose jets?"
  11. The puzzlements never end. With new ZTherapy needle valves in place, and having set the float-bowl levels at 23 mm on a bench-test, glass jar I rigged up, I found my carbs suddenly worked far better than when I used the plastic-tube-attached-to- the- bottom-of-the-bowl system. Car ran nicely. But for whatever reason, the front carb is now blowing fuel out its vent tube. Remove the float lid, and everything looks fine; the float pivots as it should, and the new needle valve moves smoothly. But I`m still puking gasoline. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  12. Thanks All, So it sounds like if I want everything to be as original as possible, I needn't worry about screwdrivers and wrenches. What I'm missing is wheel chocks. I'm guessing they don't look like the made-in-china plastic bits that all the stores are peddling. I appreciate all the information.
  13. My '71 Z came with an original jack, handle, and tool-kit bag. All are in good condition, but the only tools in the bag were a couple of un-matched slot screwdrivers. Can anyone tell me what tools should be in the bag? Any photos of what they look like? Thanks
  14. Mark,

    I tried to reply earlier regarding the chrome trim on the rear surrounds, but somehow I ran afoul of the site administrator, so I'll try this way.  The chrome trim is not perfect, but it's a lot better than one would expect for a 40 year old car.  I'm going to try to make it to Edmonton tomorrow.  After going through three cars to make one good one, I have a mass of surplus parts.  I'll be the guy in the plain-jane white GMC 1/2 ton.  Cell phone 403-341-9207.  

    Thanks again for the invitation.

     

    Richard (d***) McDonell

  15. View Advert 280 five-speed I acquired this transmission a number of years ago as part of a parts package. It does not fit in my 240. Casting number is 7226602. It has what appears to be a welded seam on one side (see photo), and for that reason I took to a reputable transmission shop for inspection. They disassembled it, found nothing wrong, and put it back together with new seals. Their invoice and notes are attached. Asking $500 Richard McDonel 403-347-6567 Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 07/17/2019 Price $500.00 Category Parts for Sale