Jump to content

Richard McDonel

Members
  • Content Count

    198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Richard McDonel last won the day on April 18

Richard McDonel had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

About Richard McDonel

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
  • Occupation
    SCFI

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    '71 240Z HLS30 28726
    '78 Mercedes 450SEL
    Various boring transportation appliances

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Progress report: Had another look at the position of the float and determined that the only reason it wasn't centered was that there is a bit of sideways play on the pivot pin. Nothing to see here folks. So I rechecked the float level using my own glass- jar plus funnel system (photo attached); be patient Snap-On, l'll sell you the blueprints as soon as I get my patent in order. Re-installed the float, tried Siteunseen's push-down-with-a-straw method, and everything seemed as bouncy as it should. Fired up, let it run for a couple of minutes, drove a couple of miles, brought it back, and no gas coming at me through the vent. It reminds me of a friend's car many years ago, a Chev V-8. Occasionally it would start running rough, at which point he would pull over, dig out a fairly heavy screwdriver, and whack the carb bowls with the handle. Problem solved. "Float gets stuck in the bowl somehow" he explained. I'm not sure how the SU float could get stuck in the bowl with everything being clean and shiny, but I can't think of anything else. The only problem now is finding any engine between idle (does nicely at 700 rpm) and 2,200 rpm. Touch the throttle and the carbs pause and gasp before winding up to working range.
  2. Thanks everyone, I had checked the float for leaks, but all seems dry. I did not use the push-down with a straw method suggested, and there might be something there. Right now, the float and lid assembly are sitting on my desk, and while the side-to-side variance is not great, there is no question the float isn't hanging dead centre. Enough to cause friction with the wall of the bowl? We'll find out tomorrow morning when I'll be brave and try to bend things just a tiny bit to get it all centered. What is the significance of "grose jets?"
  3. The puzzlements never end. With new ZTherapy needle valves in place, and having set the float-bowl levels at 23 mm on a bench-test, glass jar I rigged up, I found my carbs suddenly worked far better than when I used the plastic-tube-attached-to- the- bottom-of-the-bowl system. Car ran nicely. But for whatever reason, the front carb is now blowing fuel out its vent tube. Remove the float lid, and everything looks fine; the float pivots as it should, and the new needle valve moves smoothly. But I`m still puking gasoline. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  4. Thanks All, So it sounds like if I want everything to be as original as possible, I needn't worry about screwdrivers and wrenches. What I'm missing is wheel chocks. I'm guessing they don't look like the made-in-china plastic bits that all the stores are peddling. I appreciate all the information.
  5. My '71 Z came with an original jack, handle, and tool-kit bag. All are in good condition, but the only tools in the bag were a couple of un-matched slot screwdrivers. Can anyone tell me what tools should be in the bag? Any photos of what they look like? Thanks
  6. Mark,

    I tried to reply earlier regarding the chrome trim on the rear surrounds, but somehow I ran afoul of the site administrator, so I'll try this way.  The chrome trim is not perfect, but it's a lot better than one would expect for a 40 year old car.  I'm going to try to make it to Edmonton tomorrow.  After going through three cars to make one good one, I have a mass of surplus parts.  I'll be the guy in the plain-jane white GMC 1/2 ton.  Cell phone 403-341-9207.  

    Thanks again for the invitation.

     

    Richard (d***) McDonell

  7. View Advert 280 five-speed I acquired this transmission a number of years ago as part of a parts package. It does not fit in my 240. Casting number is 7226602. It has what appears to be a welded seam on one side (see photo), and for that reason I took to a reputable transmission shop for inspection. They disassembled it, found nothing wrong, and put it back together with new seals. Their invoice and notes are attached. Asking $500 Richard McDonel 403-347-6567 Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 07/17/2019 Price $500.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  8. Time Left: 1 month and 24 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I acquired this transmission a number of years ago as part of a parts package. It does not fit in my 240. Casting number is 7226602. It has what appears to be a welded seam on one side (see photo), and for that reason I took to a reputable transmission shop for inspection. They disassembled it, found nothing wrong, and put it back together with new seals. Their invoice and notes are attached. Asking $500 Richard McDonel 403-347-6567

    $500.00

    Red Deer, Alberta - CA

  9. I've never used sealant on head gaskets, and haven't blown one since around 1970. Go dry.
  10. Good restoration project. A weekend or two and she'll be as good as new.
  11. Stole a measuring cup from Mama. What I drained from the seemingly full diff was 16 fl. oz = .47 litre. I have no idea where to put the other .53 litre.
  12. I now have around 150 miles on my freshly (last year) restored '71 240. The differential seems quite noisy so I checked the oil level (finger tip reaches oil), then drained it. No sign of metal filings or debris on the magnet. I drained it into a four-litre ice cream pail and it only filled it to 15% capacity. I put in new hypoid lube, but in a 1 litre bottle I've still got 700 ml left with the diff filled right up to the edge of the fill plug. the FSM says it takes approximately one litre, or .21 gallon. Just to make sure the oil wasn't all backed up in the diff casing, I left the rear of the car on jack stands and lowered the front. Very little difference. I've still got well under half a litre in the car. I see there was some discussion on this topic in 2011, and people emphasized that actual capacity can vary depending on casting irregularities, but in the case of my car, the difference seems somewhat greater than a casting variation. Any thoughts? Thanks,
  13. DaveWM Agree that is very much nostalgia driven. That's what drives the collector car market. Guys in their peak earning years can now go out and buy the cars they lusted for as 18 year olds. It's a market that comes and goes. Model A Fords used to be worth a lot more than they are today just because that demographic is past their wrenching, tinkering, and show'n' shining days.
  14. 240260280, Well, a 240Z with a hot-rodded BMW engine, and a faux GTO body - who knows, it might beat a real GTO at LeMans. And a lot cheaper to insure, as the most recent GTO sale I'm aware of was in August at RM Sotheby's Monterey auction: $48 mill + buyer's premium. Hot-rod Zs have a way to go to catch that.
  15. ps, I'm Canadian, and our $ has shrunk, so $68,000 U.S. = $91,500 C. Never thought I'd own a $90k car.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.