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inLine6, Yes, I think that both the '70 and '71 model year 240Zs with either 903 Universal Blue and Blue interiors, as well as the '70 and '71 model year 240Zs with 904 White and Blue interiors were the rarest, as the blue interiors were only limited to the the 904 White and the 903 Blue 240Zs. The vast majority of the '70 and '71 model year 903 Blue and 904 White 240Zs came with Black interiors. I used to have a '71 904 White 240Z and I absolutely wish I had never sold it about 7 years ago. Here's a few pictures of my former car:

So I bought the lug wrench Terrapin Z posted. It arrived; very nice. Then Terrapin sent me a link to these NISSAN MOTOR pliers with that magic 27 die number. How cool. So I started looking for more NISSAN tools and I rediscovered the background on my tool roll. There is still one of these available on Ebay for a hefty sum but check out this link; https://www.superscoutspecialists.com/633633t-diesel-nos-tool-kit Evidently, NISSAN sold diesel engines to International Harvester for their SuperScout diesel models and the tool roll came with the engines to be delivered with the vehicles. The seller on Ebay wants 5 times the price on the IH website.

This is why we need orange as a choice for paint. Also, I like the break in the grille.

Here's my 2¢. First, make sure your valve lash is set properly. Second, make sure your ignition is set properly: timing, points gap, dwell, spark plug gaps. THEN you can set up the carburetors. I bring this up based upon the other thread where I talked about setting the dwell. Points that are not gapped properly or having too much or too little dwell time will result in poor spark. If the hydrocarbons are not being combusted during the spark, they would probably show up as a rich mixture with colortune. You may want to settle upon what you want to do about the electronic ignition before you use up all of your colortune supplies.

Dang it! That's another tool added to my Amazon wish list.

Stock PS30 battery cable routing should be very similar to stock S30 and S30-S battery cable routing for cars made during the same period. The two cable run from the battery, along the firewall at the same level, over the top of the bonnet/hood catch bracket, and then turn down towards the bellhousing and starter motor - with their last holding point on the firewall being the dedicated stand-off clamp which is quite similar to the Mater Vac hose bracket. Small bolt-on clamps hold the cables to the firewall. I think people started routing the cables through the catch bracket because it acted as an extra guide, and perhaps looked a little neater. Strictly speaking, it is not correct.

That's what @240260280 taught me to do.

Totally agree. However, he wasn't getting the kind of help he needs from the responses.

I've been the mod on that forum for a few years, and I will guaran-DAMN-tee you that if someone joins a forum and immediately responds to a parts wanted post with "My friend Bob has just the part you need. Contact him at eatme.gmail.com" it is ALWAYS a scammer. No exceptions. I have it posted in the forum that anyone who does that will be banned. The posts are always similar and always scams, and I've seen it for years. People who have Z-car parts respond themselves, they don't have random friends who have an inventory in their head posting for them. I can't speak to the case which started this thread, but my advice when buying used parts that are $$ is to go to an online escrow company (like Escrow.com) work through them, have the seller ship and don't have the money released until you have received the parts and authorize the payment to be made. Yes, it costs extra, but I've been scammed and I've learned from it. If he seller won't do that, I don't buy.

Keep in mind that manuals like that were probably drawn by draftsmen, not the engineers and technicians who worked on the cars. The engineers probably had to review in a rush and approve for publication so Nissan could make the microfiche, print manuals, and get all of the materials out to the supply chain and dealerships. It is almost without fail that I go back to drawings I approved years before and see some detail I got wrong. Keep that in mind as you look through the FSMs and other manuals. There could be an error lurking, but for the most part, the manuals are correct.

It had like 50 responses in a few hours. I didn’t think it was a violation of the new term “community guidelines” because it began by laying out the facts followed by members explaining the fault in his thinking. Not sure why is was shut down. What I got from the whole thing is that this individual needs help. It was one heck of a read. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With only a few threads showing, I doubt that is the cause. When I had the issue, I showed 3 - 4 threads. The next thing I'd check is simple play everywhere. Put the car on jack stands and then put a floor jack under the tire. Have a helper slowly jack the tire until the spring begins to deflect while you watch and feel the strut top mount. There should be no noise or movement from full droop to the start of travel. Repeat the same test and watch/feel the stabilizer bar end links, inner, and outer control arm pivots, and even the mustache bar to diff and to the body. Chances are good, the issue is in the strut somewhere since that's what changed before and after the noise began. If that fails to provide answers, have someone drive the car over small bumps while you listen to a stethoscope with the end on the top nut of the strut. You should be able to confirm if the noise is coming from the strut or elsewhere. If that too fails, Chassis Ear will be needed. They are the same as a stethoscope, but are wireless and can be attached to various chassis parts so you can listen while you drive over the proper input. The noise can be isolated to a specific component rather than knowing that it's coming from the rear of the car. Chassis Ears are about $100 for a basic setup. https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06600-ChassisEAR-Electronic-Squeak/dp/B000IHIAES/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2K7L0ZJIEUAHF&keywords=chassis%2Bears&qid=1645206093&s=automotive&sprefix=chassis%2Bears%2Cautomotive%2C139&sr=1-5&th=1

I've seen several times when replacing strut cartridges that the new gland nuts that came with the cartridges were too tall and the threads bottomed out prior to clamping the strut cartridge into the tube. I had to use the old gland nuts and then there was no vertical gap between the cartridge and the inside of the nut. With the spring off, the cartridge should not have any axial play. If there is any play, it will bang. With the spring installed, it's impossible to tell if there is play, although if you see a lot of exposed threads, chances are good this is your issue.

Many thanks, Alan. I examined maybe 20 engine bay photos of Z432s, and pretty much every car owner had at one point changed the stock positions to something other than your photo. Many had also swapped around the battery terminals, probably to ease access to the extra power runs for whichever replacement ignition system they were using. My car is no exception. RE electronic ignition: I had a vision this morning of perhaps re-using the existing wiring harness to eliminate a few of the custom wire runs needed by the replacement CDI, by manufacturing a matching connector that mates to the existing harness in some fashion. I cant say for sure there's a way to get a 1:1 correlation of wires, but if I can eliminate some of the extra wires needed to make the system work, it would look a little cleaner under the dash.

For NON Americano.. that's in bills of 100 dollar.. 😉 so it was Benjamin Franklin on those bills..

It was my understanding from years ago that the blue on blue WAS the rarest color combo. Yes, I did get paid from a Saudi Sheik, in Benjamins. Bonzi Lon

at the "fake" hyperbole. You're a little late to be complaining about Super GT's regulations, as what we see now (a shared 2-litre turbocharged 4-cyl engine and tube frame chassis) has been the norm in the GT500 class since 2014. We've had at least seven years of Nissan 'GTRs' running that spec, which is even more poignant. That's just the way it is these days. Same for all the major manufacturers. Don't I remember you waxing lyrical and whimsically about the Z32-era IMSA GTO 300ZX Twin Turbo race cars? What did those tube-framed, plastic-bodied race cars "tell" you about the road going models? Nothing much, I'd say. "The Original Racing Z" was a Fairlady Z 432-R, a limited production homologation special with lightweight body pressings, plastic windows, 100 litre fuel tank, LSD and a 24 valve twin cam engine. So yes, basically 'stock'...

@Zed Head I truly appreciate your observation, and I do try to follow the recommendations. I'm waiting on the carb rebuild kit, so can't do that yet. I added my rationale (in bold) to each of my points below: Install electric points and new coil - I received this the other day, so thought I'd install it. Rebuild carbs. I don't know the current status of the carbs, so rebuild is in order. - I really do think the carbs are part of the problem, so thought it would be good to know it's done right. I'm not sure when the kit will arrive. Wrap my headers to reduce temps - I don't have space for a heat shield between the header and the intake manifold, so I'm concerned that the heat from the header could be an issue. I don't have any real knowledge in this area it's just a hunch. Based on what you guys have recommended, I believe the next three steps are in the correct order... Adjust the valves Set the timing Adjust the carbs - to include balance (with airflow meter) and Colortune. The pic is a little device I rigged during my MGB days. The end that contacts the carbs bends to accommodate tight spaces. Take her for a spin and adjust as needed.

Thanks to all. Based on all of the advice here's my plan: Install electric points and new coil Rebuild carbs. I don't know the current status of the carbs, so rebuild is in order. Wrap my headers to reduce temps - I don't have space for a heat shield between the header and the intake manifold. Adjust the valves Set the timing Adjust the carbs - to include balance and Colortune Take her for a spin I will definitely read the '72 FSM and use as my guide.

By 1976, maybe sooner, Nissan recommended this as the very first thing to do.

I would also look around for cracks on the chassis. At the strut towers or strut tower braces, spare tire well. Anywhere it could make a noise. I agree with Zed on the low threshold for the sound. Maybe get some one to drive you around in the hatch area to see if you could localize it

That's a pretty low amplitude bump. A tar strip? I would look at the unexpected. The spare tire, any loose parts in the spare tire well, parts in the tool bins behind the seats, the muffler and exhaust system, the gas tank,etc. And the diff mounts through the mustache bar, they have been known to be loose even though the nuts are tight. And the front diff mount. Even the bumper could be bouncing on loose bolts.

Cliff, you're absolutely right about the nozzle hoses. They have to be very flexible. I installed the silicone hoses from Ztherapy. As far as fuel height goes, a while back I became curious about an actual measurement from the carb bridge to the desired fuel level. In the British forums I found that 3/8" was the desired distance (it doesn't have to be exact) including round top Hitachis. Using the fact that one turn of the nozzle screw equals one mm and 3/8" equals 9 5/8 turns, that (or close to it) should be the fuel height according to the Brits.

For the Colortune I can only get to Yellow no matter how far I turn the knob: Yellow Indicates a fuel / air mixture which have excessive petrol content (rich). Like a candle flame - producing more light but less heat. Bunsen Blue Indicates a mixture which is correctly proportioned. Whitish Blue Indicates a mixture which has less petrol content (lean) The Pic below is what it should look like (bunsen blue).

Thanks for the help guys. You confirmed my suspicions / logic. Guess you can't believe everything you read.

If your strapped for cash, building a race motor should be pretty far down the important line. DSI builds some pretty motors and has come up with a lot of innovative products. Their youtube channel has one of the best if not the best sounds L series video on the internet.

I had a problem on a Z I had once and couldn't figure it out for anything. Turns out the nozzles were not moving freely as a result of the previous owner using regular fuel hose instead of the more pliable "J" hose that they are supposed to have. If the chokes are disconnected you should be able to reach under and pull them down and they should pop back up on their own. Good luck.

RabbitZ started a thread accusing Eiji of Datsun Spirit of scheming to steal his engine by performing work on it when RabbitZ just wanted him to store it for most of the year until he got his funds in order. Once RabbitZ showed the correspondence the bulk of the thread was spent explaining that Eiji had done nothing wrong and that RabbitZ had assumed things that were unreasonable. There was much back and forth and, I would guess that somebody complained directly to Mike, Mike just deleted the whole thing. The lesson learned is that complex personal subjects should not be discussed on the forum.

He turns 80 today. Walking the track to help visualize his line.

Here is a good one for 00027.... It is for sale, sorta near me. Anyone figure out what the letters or numbers correspond to?

How about various jack handles? Here are two different ones I have.