SteveJ

Thanks for the input. It does have the ability to datalog. I haven't done that, yet. I still need to change the fuel filter. I can't remember if I changed it when I did the bumper swap. If I didn't, it's been on there a while. Then I can do the datalogging. After that, I can send the info off to Affordable Fuel Injection for a different map.

It wasn't having issues before the conversion. I drained the tank completely a couple of years ago for the bumper conversion, and I didn't notice much in the way of debris in the gas I drained out. Of course, when I look at the filter carefully post change, my opinion of the condition of the tank could change.

Well, I tested the car this morning. It doesn't like starting smoothly, but once it got going, it ran nicely...for a while. I was going up a hill, and it started losing power, like fuel starvation. I decided to add fuel, almost 7 gallons. It drove well on flat roads (little elevation change), but on a rise a few miles later, I felt the loss of power again. The road leveled out, and I made a right turn. Again, under load, it didn't have enough fuel. I'm going to change the fuel filter and increase the pressure a little on the fuel rail. I have also started researching surge tanks just in case.

I remember looking at snowmobile throttle cables a few years back. Those looked promising to me.

I have a set still in the box I could sell you for $999.49 (less than $1000) 😉

On the northwest side of Lake Lanier Yes, on http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com and https://georgiazclub.wordpress.com/2016/06/12/making-new-memories-284-photos/ No, I don't sell them. I bought mine from Group Harrington.

If you want to see the stainless steel bumpers in person, I have them on both of my cars, and I'm within a decent driving distance.

Also https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/new-datsun-240z-260z-280z-stainless-steel-euro-bumpers/

https://groupharrington.com/product/datsun-240z-and-260z-bumpers/ Stainless steel bumpers

To be specific - Use a threaded plug with a good coating of anti-seize. Otherwise, it's likely that you are still welding up the O2 bung. I'm pretty sure I used anti-seize on the bung for my headers, and I still had a bear of a time removing the plug.

Between 2 & 3 - Coat the area to be soldered with a good flux. That will help the solder adhere to the wire.

Where exactly is this in the wiring harness? I can't make it out with the close-in shot. By the way, great job on the perseverance. You're representing your generation well. Edit: Wait, I'm taking that it's at the fusible link. So that branch wasn't getting full current due to the corrosion. When it got the extra load, the voltage would drop.

These numbers seem high to me. The resistance across wire runs should be very low. You may want to validate your readings. Keep in mind that the quality of the probe with the wire being measure can greatly affect your readings. Make sure you have very firm contact on each side of the circuit.

I got 6AN to 1/8 NPT fittings to replace the barb fittings on the TBI adapters. I could not put the back throttle body fitting at the angle I wanted because it was hitting on the base of the adapter before it was to the point I wanted, so I compromised. It looks a little kludged, but it doesn't leak. (If it looks stupid but it works, it's not stupid.) I also purchased a Walbro GSL395 fuel pump. This fuel pump is rated up to 20 PSI and is targeted for GM TBI systems. In other words, it's a good application. In addition, it takes male 10mmx1 fittings, so I got it with 6AN to 10mm fittings. After that I put 90 degree elbows on the inlet and outlet and 5/16 to 6AN fittings on the elbows to go to the fuel lines. I was able to orient the pump so the inlet is on the bottom, like it should be. I got the fuel pressure set, and I got a smooth idle, though it is at 1200 RPM. Now I have to test. That might have to wait until Tuesday, though.

@Usain_Boat- This is the thread @wal280zis referring to

Please note that ZCON 2020 runs MONDAY through Saturday. The past several ZCONs were Tuesday through Saturday.

When my friend (and long time Z mechanic) worked on my wheel bearings, he left the nut on enough to protect the threads and used an air hammer on the back side. That worked well for the left. The right did not budge. He attached a slide hammer to the right, and it still did not budge. Then I used the slide hammer while he used the air hammer. That worked. The threads were protected, too. Mind you, this was done with the parts attached to the car.

Make sure the resistor is connected between the ignition and the tachometer.

Upper and lower voltage limits are important for some components. For instance, don't run a standard sealed beam headlight at 17 volts. It won't last long, and the fuse won't blow.

FYI to the reading public, @Usain_Boat and I have talked on the phone. He is going to examine the body wiring harness for signs of damage. The cutting off may be happening with the left turn signal, too. The common path is through the body wiring harness. Fortunately, the interior panels are off so he can trace it more thoroughly.

Oh, since we would expect the flasher fuse to blow, check the rating on the fuse to make sure it is only 10A.

Okay, here is an explanation of the fuel pump control relay and fuel pump relay 78 Fuel Pump Relay Notes There are two relays 1. Fuel Pump Control Relay 2. Fuel Pump Relay Fuel Pump Control Relay: Positive coil voltage comes from the white/black wire (Origin is the Ignition Relay) One coil is grounded through Alternator (blue wire). The other coil is grounded through the oil pressure switch (yellow/black). The relay has form C contacts. A contact puts wiper (white/black) in contact with power from ignition relay. B contact puts wiper in contact with power from engine cranking (black/yellow wire). (Note: This is opposite of how it is drawn in the factory wiring diagram, but how it is drawn does not make sense.) The wiper provides coil power to the Fuel Pump Relay. Fuel Pump Relay: Positive coil voltage comes from the white/black wire from the Fuel Pump Control Relay wiper. Form A contacts connect two green/blue wires. One side comes from a fusible link. The other side goes to the fuel pump. Theory of operation: When cranking the engine, within the Fuel Pump Control Relay, the second white/black wire mentioned above is connected to the start position on the ignition switch. This energizes the Fuel Pump Relay and powers the fuel pump. If the engine starts, the key is released to the ON position, and the first white/black wire is energized from the ignition relay. The blue wire is grounded through the alternator and the coil is energized within the Fuel Pump Control Relay. This closes a set of contacts within the Fuel Pump Control Relay that allows the second coil to energize, provided there is sufficient oil pressure. With the second coil energized, the power from the ignition relay is providing power to energize the coil on the fuel pump relay. How this applies to your problem: The odds are that the voltage is dropping on the white/black wire coming off the ignition relay. List of components fed from the white/black wire from the ignition relay: Fuel Pump Control Relay Electronic Fuel Injection Main Relay Flasher fuse (Green wire) Fuel Gauge fuse (Blue wire) The loads off the Flasher fuse: Brake Warning Lamp Check Relay Turn signals Seat Belt Warning Timer Unit Fuel Level Warning Lamp Reverse Lights The loads off the Fuel Gauge fuse: Fuel Gauge Water Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge Tachometer Process of Elimination: There are several components here that we can definitely cross off as problematic: Fuel Pump Control Relay, EFI Main Relay, Seat Belt Warning Timer Unit, Fuel Level Warning Lamp, Fuel Gauge, Water Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge, Tachometer. So IIRC, you said that the car would die when using turn signals or putting the car into reverse. Those are BOTH powered off the flasher fuse in the fusebox, and the flasher fuse gets its power via the white/black wire from the ignition relay. There is even a common point for these two circuits that initiate the problem: the right rear taillight assembly. Here is a simple test. Disconnect the wiring harness going to the right rear taillight assembly. Start the car and try to put it into reverse. If it does not die, try turning on the right turn signal. If it does not die, you have confirmed that the issue is at the right rear taillight assembly. You may have to take off the plastic panel to access the connector.

The wire that goes to the bulbs is not continuous to ground. The bulbs are the load (resistance). You should be reading about 3 Ohms resistance from the wire at the switch to ground. Only the negative side of the bulb socket should have continuity to ground.

Okay, this is a good start. If you have not already done so, download a copy of the FSM from this site. (If you are on a computer, the link is in my signature.) Also, look at Blue's tech tips for a copy of the full wiring diagram. I think there is even a color copy of the wiring diagram floating around this site somewhere. On page BE-14 of the FSM, you'll find the reverse light circuit. The diagram shows that one side of the switch gets power from the fuse box, and the other goes to the taillights. Neither side should be grounded. Since you say one side of the switch is grounded, let's assume that is the side with the bulb sockets. Unplug both of your taillights at the taillight panel. Check the wire that had continuity with ground to see if it is still grounded. If it is not, the problem is at a taillight. That might also correspond to the dying problem happening with the turn signal. If the wire is still grounded after that test, break the connection at connector C-4. Test again. If it is grounded, the problem exists between the switch and connector C-4. If it is not grounded, there is a chance the body wiring harness is damaged, probably by a screw and is grounding out. To trace the path of the body harness, look at the BE section of the FSM. If my instructions don't make sense, send me a PM with your phone number. Sometimes I can explain this over the phone more easily than I can type it up.