Harry11

Ok thanks

Ok that makes sense. do I push the fork back (towards the rear of the car) until it has tension and set the rod distance from that point?

Thanks for all the help guys. I ended up ordering the year correct one from the z store and the spring so we will see when it gets here. I do still have one more question. When looking at the photo attached it says to leave a 2mm gap between the rod adjusting nut and the fork. I’m a bit confused as wouldn’t the spring take up that gap. Also when I remove the slave cylinder the fork can move a couple inches more towards the front of the car so where is the starting point of the fork for this gap? Sorry that may be confusing. I know the one that was in there had no gap at all and was pressing on the fork a fair amount. Not any real pressure but was at least taking up all the play.

I went to Nissan today and they said the original part number is 30620-28502 and that part number 30620-v2800 replaces it at a price of $170.19 Canadian.

That’s what was curious. The 72 I believe is suppose to have one that is 11/16. Most I find when searching for a replacement are 3/4. Which is the size that was on mine already. I was worried that this was causing my shifting issues as the rod was only travelling roughly 10mm. That being said mine was also on the fritz.

I bled the clutch again and worked good for a couple minutes but then went soft. Went underneath and found a small puddle leaking from the boot in the slave cylinder. Guessing that was the problem all along. Would it be best to try to find the correct 11/16 bore slave cylinder for this car??

Sorry just did some more research and I see I’m missing the slave cylinder return spring. I see the fork has a hole where it should go but the slave cylinder does not so guessing it’s from a newer car. Should I be trying to purchase a 71-72 slave cylinder and spring or is this something guys are commonly doing without issue?

Been having some issues with my clutch grinding into reverse and the old 1st to reverse wasn’t helping. Also felt the pedal was a bit softer than usual. I have had the car for two years now and have never had any clutch related issues until recently. Only thing I really have done was changed the transmission fluid 6 months ago. My pedal engages almost at the floor and is how it has been since owning it. Checked for leaks and didn’t see any. Fluid was pretty dark so I changed the fluid in the reservoir but introduced some air and ended up having to bleed the system. Got it working decent for about 20 minutes or so and but now it’s giving me issues getting into first and reverse is almost more difficult. I’m guessing there still may be some air in the lines so that’s my next plan but am wondering if I should be making some adjustment to the slave cylinder. It is the threaded one and was planning on lengthening it a couple turns to start. Having trouble figuring out exactly how to do this and if it is ok for it yo be resting directly against the lever or if it needs to have a small gap for play. anyhow if someone has some advice on my next steps and adjustments I should be making before replacing everything I would appreciate it.

Thanks. I will look into some LED’s.

Took my 72 for the first drive of the summer. Everything was going great for 20 mins until I turned my headlights on. Then I noticed a loud squeal start happening when accelerating. Turned my lights off and sound went away. Tried this a few different times and every time lights were on the sound would appear Would the lights put enough load on the alternator to make the squeal? Belt going bad / not tentioned?

This is what I went with

Wanting to add some side stripes to my 72. Having a tough time deciding between the classic white or going with a medium grey. Let me know what you guys think.

Interesting. I will look into that. Thanks

Yes there are actually two plugged off

I am new to the 240z world and am curious why this line would be capped off? The car runs great. Is this something that should be fixed?