SteveJ

It's alive. IT'S ALIVE!

Unless it's a diecast or plastic model, I don't think a Z is going to fit on top of that bench.

Well, I found a couple of crossed wires, and it will run the fuel pump like it should. Now I have to get the TPS adjusted (in part by using the right cover) and figure out how to break loose the plug on the O2 sensor bung. There's an outside chance I will have it done in time.

I'm planning on being there...provided I can sort out the fuel injection by then...

I might know a thing or two about the electrical system if you need help sometime...

License plate lamp housing. All of the ones I have found used have been warped all to heck.

@MikeI would agree that's a spammer in waiting.

The strange thing is that the same username is over at Zcar.com with similar types of posts: https://www.zcar.com/search.php?searchid=50972

Why would you put the fusible link between the circuit and ground? Now go back and check post #2. Go to Blue's collection of tech tips for the wiring diagram or search here for a color copy of the wiring diagram.

Keep this in mind. The stock lighting circuit has 1 positive and 2 paths to ground. Most cars have 2 positives and 1 ground. The "D" in LED is for diode. It will only allow current to flow one way. Unless the LED headlight is specially wired for the 1 positive and two paths to ground, it will not work properly. Even more than with the LEDs, the halogen bulbs need full battery voltage to achieve designed brightness.

I didn't post about Day 4 since I didn't take any new photos. Today was Day 5 - The TPS Report. Mounting the TPS bracket was a challenge. First, there are two vacuum ports on the N36 intake that the bracket does not account for. Next, it didn't matter because there is a lip on the intake where the carburetor mounts that prevents the TPS mounting bracket from aligning with the throttle linkage. Oh well, I expected to have to make some modifications. It was a shame to have to cut into that nice bracket. However, everything lines up now.

That's supply & demand for you.

So, if you're concerned about grounds, check for continuity from wire 74 to ground. You'll find this wire at the EFI relay. It should be on one of the middle pins on the 6 wire connector. The coil on the EFI relay is energized off the white/black wire from the ignition relay (make sure the ignition relay is good). For testing, you could put jumpers on the engine harness at the EFI relay as I have shown in red. For safety, keep the fusible link unplugged until you are ready to test. As for the tachometer, depending upon how you (or the PO) wired in the HEI to replace the TIU, you may have removed the trigger signal for the tach.

Just keep in mind that the picture @siteunseen posted is for a later car where the front brake circuit is closer to the booster. Otherwise, the bleed screws are shown correctly. What a bargain! https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/brake-master-cylinder-oem-46010-e4602-datsun-240z-260z-280z-1970-1971/

The hazard switch interrupts the brake light circuit and the turn signal circuit. That is why it has 8 connections.