SteveJ

Here's a link: https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=30200644&RowNumber=0&loadRecent=True The damage doesn't look too bad, but it might have compromised the suspension.

Send me a PM this weekend. I will help you out.

The original Supra? I don't see it. 😉

If you need a video editor, Cyberlink makes an older version of their Powerdirector software available as a free download. https://www.cyberlink.com/products/powerdirector-video-editing-software/features_en_US.html I found it fairly easy to use. One of the main limitations is that you can't do 4K video in the free version.

Having done what I hope is enough research, I have started down the road on my next off-beat modification. I decided to pull the trigger to go with the Patton Machine fuel injection kit on my 260Z. I still think I'm going a little lean at times at the top end with my current SU setup, and I hope this will remedy that situation. The cost appears to be less than sourcing a non-egr FI intake, AFM, MS setup, etc., and it seems to be nicely sorted out. I'll try to remember to take a lot of photos for posting. I hope to get the setup in March.

From first glance, I would agree that it looks like a 280ZX distributor.

Those are blanket statements and not really accurate. The ammeter is designed to indicate charge/discharge of the battery. The ammeter is situated between the battery and alternator, and most loads are on the alternator side of the ammeter. If the ammeter is on the positive side, the alternator is charging the battery and/or your brake lights/hazard lights are drawing current. Make sure you have a good battery. The specified alternator and the wiring harness are not designed to charge a dead battery. If the ammeter has failed completely, typically the car will not start since current will not flow through the ammeter. For starting the car, power goes from the battery, through the fusible link and ammeter, and to the ignition switch. If the alternator has failed, the electrical system is relying solely upon the battery, and the battery will discharge. If the voltage regulator has failed, typically the battery will reverse power the alternator when the car is off, and the battery will discharge. The FSM describes alternator and voltage regulator testing. See EE-18 for the alternator test and EE-22 for the start of the regulator testing. Of course, you can purchase a clamp DC ammeter to place over the battery cable to simplify testing. (This means you don't need to use the resistor shown in figure EE-55 if you use the clamp DC ammeter.) The voltage reading of 14.5 would be at 2500 RPM, and that is not a go/no-go voltage. A voltage between 14 and 15 VDC at 2500 RPM should be fine. As the FSM states, the alternator should show 12.5 or higher at 1000 RPM when doing the test as described in the manual.

It would have to stay solid at high heat. I would not want the mount to get soft at speed.

Try these two sources: https://zcarsource.com/distributor-mounting-block-280zx-79-83-non-turbo-used http://zspecialties.com/

The weather gave me one more opportunity to drive the Z this year, so I took it to a show at Gateway Classic Cars. This is what parked next to me. The owner is also restoring #30.

Thanks for providing an update. It always helps to hear the resolution for us to calibrate our suggestions.

I took my Z out today to visit a friend's new warehouse. It might be the last night driving day of the year, so I wanted to take advantage of it. As several of us sat around swapping stories, photos and videos, I admired the view in front of me and decided to take a photo.

First - Download the factory service manual on this site. If you are on a computer (not phone), you can find the link in my signature. Go over the trouble shooting in section EF. The tests for abnormal fuel consumption might lead to a solution. EC is also a good section for you to review. Now that you have the FSM, you can find the specs to adjust your valves, set your timing, and while you're at it, change your oil. Next - Search here and over at ZCAR.com. I know Tony D has posted a lot of good information on passing California smog. (Sample thread: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/297194-280z-barely-failing-smog-need-advice.html) Next - Research FFVR 36. I think you can get a temp registration or moving permit to take your car to a mechanic or to a smog station to get a pre-test. Post the numbers. Just for fun, disconnect the cold start valve prior to taking your car to be tested. You don't need it in Southern California.

Before installing it, I suggest testing it with an ohmmeter.

The 260Z ballast resistor is NLA. You might be able to get away with a 240Z ballast resistor. You would have to move the start wire over to the same terminal as the coil wire. The problem with that is that I don't know why they introduced a small amount of resistance in the starting circuit. If you're worried about that, there is a kludge I could describe to you, but it's not very elegant.