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SteveJ last won the day on August 7

SteveJ had the most liked content!

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About SteveJ

  • Rank
    Time to refocus on my Zs

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  • Map Location
    Gainesville, GA

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    73 240Z<br /><br />
    74 260Z

Recent Profile Visitors

7,424 profile views
  1. Spotted on Facebook: Here's the ultimate Christmas gift for the wrench-turning Z Car lover - https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket-set/duralast-10-pcs-multiple-drive-metric-socket-set/582151_0_0 The best part is you can give this to the same person year-after-year.
  2. This post has me thinking. (And that's a dangerous thing.) I noticed that in my fuel injection conversion, the car runs fine at first, and it acts up after it gets warm. I currently have the system dead-headed. I'll try insulating it first, and then if it still acts up, I'll add a return to the fuel rail. Thanks for the inspiration, @siteunseen.
  3. So it's not the fuel pressure. I finally set up the fuel pressure gauge (electric - not hanging out from under the hood) and did a test run. The fuel pressure read 15 PSI on the gauge. After just over 5 miles, it started doing the usual routine of acting like it's not getting enough fuel. However, the fuel pressure stayed solid at 15 PSI. I bumped up the fuel pressure to 18 PSI and tested again. Not much changed, but I started playing with the choke lever, and that did relieve the symptoms to a small extent. I have the driver for the USB cable, so the next test will be with data logging.
  4. It's not too difficult to replace the TIU with an HEI. Search around this site.
  5. You went all out to save weight. Colin Chapman would be proud.
  6. The puddle of fluid could be inside the brake booster or soaking the firewall insulation.
  7. High HC tends to mean incomplete combustion. (Look at timing and valve adjustment.) High CO tends to mean rich. (Among other possible problems, it could be the cold start valve supplying too much fuel.) Make sure you have a good distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. Do a valve adjustment. Check the timing. Change the oil before testing. Download the FSM (link below) and look at the EF and EC sections. Check the function of the water temperature switch If the car was originally a California model, it had a cat. A tell-tale sign is a Floor Temperature warning light on the center console. Since you aren't being tested for NOx, don't worry about the EGR. Search a lot around on this site. There are a lot of threads on fuel injection that might help you.
  8. As @Zed Head said, they have a bad habit of corroding. I'm glad to hear it runs again.
  9. I suggest that you add the year of your car.
  10. If you look closely at the guy in the foreground, you can see the clip pulling the back of his jacket. It's a lot easier to see in the original picture. Scans of magazine photos tend to lose a lot of detail.
  11. Should the Chinese characters be in a different color for legitimate Canadian currency?
  12. @nix240z - Is this something you might be making in the future?
  13. Costco has the Quickjack 5000 on sale. https://www.costco.com/.product.100460313.html It's a little cheaper than Home Depot right now. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuickJack-BL-5000SLX-5-000-lbs-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift-BL-5000SLX-AC-110v/307393222 The Costco price runs until Sept 23.
  14. According to the owner's manual for 79, it does not need leaded gas.
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