SteveJ

Too bad your view was blocked by that sweaty fat guy.

R - Right Headlight R/Y - Left Headlight R/L - Inspection Light G/L - Front/Side Marker Lights Of those 4 wires, only the R/L wire doesn't go through a switch. Pull the 4th fuse down on the right side of the fuse block. Reconnect the 4 pin connector and test again.

So locate the two connectors circled. They will be around the dash on the passenger side. Disconnect them and repeat the resistance measurements in the engine bay. Disconnecting those wires should isolate the wires from the alternator and battery in the engine harness from the dash harness. Also check resistance from the white/red wire at the alternator to ground.

Is the alternator connected or not? If it was connected, try the test with the alternator disconnected. If the readings are still low, post the year of your car so I can tell you what to disconnect at the body/engine harness junction to try to isolate the short better.

He did say in the first post that it's a 78. I've missed the year being posted in other threads, too. We're just getting old, @Zed Head. That aside, @mayolives, here is one way to test: Disconnect your battery at the positive and negative terminals. Disconnect the alternator wires. Make sure you pay attention about which wire went where. Remove all 4 fusible links. Make sure you pay attention about which link went where. Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance from the connector at the fusible link block to ground. Put the probe on the connector that goes to the

It's amazing how I spent several summers in the south driving around in cars without AC. I was just happy to have cars that ran decent, and I didn't have to pay for them. I still drive around in the heat without AC in the Z cars, but now it's by choice.

The wire colors tell you a lot of what you need to know. Make sure you download the service manuals. That's where I get a lot of my info from. That page came from the 71 supplement that is posted on this site. If you notice, the connector shapes match up well.

I may have not given you a clear methodology for testing. I went out to my car to verify. For the resistance test, measure from the fusible link connector in the engine bay wiring harness to ground. See the photo. I tested my car, placing the other test lead on ground. It was about 880 Ohm. That would mean a potential draw of around 13mA. Can you measure the resistance at the same points?

Photos and the correct year in the signature help a lot! It's the wiring for the defrost switch.

And, from what I heard, Austin 2017.

Dang it. I was hoping for nice weather. Oh well, they have to snag Barber when it's available. 😞

He said the car won't start without the ammeter. That says it is not one that relies upon a shunt.

Clean up the wires and verify the colors. Also post the year of your car. Different years have different wiring. (Hint: Click on your user name in the top right corner. Then Click on Account Settings. That should give you a new screen. Click on signature and add your car information in your signature.) That is definitely NOT for your horn relay unless someone just randomly re-wired some things. (Yes, I know that can happen.) Green/red - Usually the left turn signal wiring. Red - Usually right headlight power/high beam indicator on the speedometer. (I can't tell from your photo i

I was also looking at a 93 Honda Civic wiper motor on RockAuto.com. It looks the same as what ZCarDepot has.

This is what he used: https://zcardepot.com/products/wiper-motor-honda-upgrade-240z-260z-280z?_pos=2&_sid=01d6bdf24&_ss=r @Zs-ondabrainused the 91 Honda Civic motor for the 240Z.