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Jeff G 78

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Jeff G 78 last won the day on December 14 2017

Jeff G 78 had the most liked content!

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About Jeff G 78

  • Rank
    Someday my Z will be finished...


  • Gender
  • Map Location
    Northville, Michigan
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About my Cars
    '78 280Z owned since March 1990 - Bought in Atlanta<br /><br />
    '74.5 260Z endurance racer painted in the BRE livery

Recent Profile Visitors

3,708 profile views
  1. I have the tool (KD-3087) siteunseen showed and I have used both rope and rubber hose to hold the valves closed. I like rope better as it doesn't have as much give as the rubber hose. The valves will stay completely closed with the rope. That said, the tool went out of production quite a few years ago, but you can probably find a used one. It works okay with stock valve springs, but I found that performance springs and retainers make it difficult to use. The tool doesn't fit well on the springs close to the towers and stiffer springs cause the tool to flex and slip off the valve retainers.
  2. Hmmm, mine has always stayed logged-in. I use Chrome.
  3. Wow, that’s disappointing. I guess I will try to clear lacquer mine before I run it.
  4. I got around to installing the BHJ damper today. It went on great using the crank bolt to draw it in. The 0.001" interference fit made it tighter than a stock damper, but it pulled in very easily with the bolt. The Kameari bolt and washer were just the right length. The only thing I need to do now is fabricate a new pointer as the scale on the damper it forward of the pulley rather than behind it like the stock damper. Since the whole reason for the engine teardown and new damper was a loose crank bolt, I used red Loctitie this time around. 😏
  5. I also ended up with the Kameari bolt and washer.
  6. I love the roads around Jerome. Were you in that area?
  7. Thanks, I'll grab a pair. I have always struggled with the float heights. Several years ago, I posted my method which involved using a clear water bottle as a surrogate bowl so I could set the floats and not have to take the bowls off and reinstall them over than over. It worked okay, but it still wasn't super accurate. The banjo bolt setup should yield much better results.
  8. I like the banjo bolt idea! I will use that. Do you have the banjo specs handy?
  9. I've been using this site for years. It's a great quick reference.
  10. There must be some other factor at work that we are missing. I guess as long as you found a solution, all is good.
  11. Great find. It's odd that my F54 with a shaved P79 endurance race engine has near perfect AFR with SM needles. I have a Web #91 cam and a header, but it's otherwise a pretty simple build.
  12. i gutted a spark plug and installed a bolt through the center with the end ground smooth. I then turn the crank slowly until the piston stops from the stopper. The length of the stopper bolt should cause the piston to stop 5° - 10° from TDC. I note the number on the degree wheel and then rotate the crank backwards until it stops again. Again, I note the number on the degree wheel. I rotate the degree wheel on the crank the number of degrees it takes to make the CW and CCW numbers match. I then do it all again to double check that the degree wheel is exactly zeroed at TDC. From there, I can start checking timing per the cam timing card. I use the eccentric sleeves from a SBC as described in the How To Modify Your L Series book.
  13. It's amazing how many parts were still good though. I am using the mustache bar, aftermarket swaybars and the front crossmember on my race car after I modified the pivot points. I'm sure there are many others as well that I can't think of at the moment. 😎
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